Newspaper Page Text
A POPPY RED SILK AND LACE.
AN EXCESS OF FINERY Dresses Are Absurdly Over trimmed. LONG BLACK COATS HATS ARE BIGGER AND TRAINS ARE LONGER. Milliners Are Making Fine Results With Incrustations of Lace. Kjh-.Ii 1 f*??rr? ;? ml.n. e of The Evening Star. NEW YORK. April 1?. V.XG. Sweet Simplicity's occupation is gone, and ostentatious elaboration, that trembles on the verge of rank vulgarity, is the fault we have to find with the new spring fashions. Too many buttons, tucks, stitched straps, lace incrustations, velvet bands, pearl aigrettes, bows and boas, clashing colors, puffs and trains, frills and dangles are working together just now for the destruc tion of the grace and taste and distinction of dress. The old adage holds that it is possible to have too much of a good thing, and it applies with melancholy force to the modes of this yiar, and the smart woman of the moment is shockingly overdressed. When array, d in her best she looks dis tressingly like a freak advertisement for all the new fabrics and fancies of the hour. Frcim her hosiery to her hatpins she is elaborated to the point of sheer absurdity, because sh>? insists upon wearing ;*1 the pretty proi!:;-ts of the counters combined in an overwhelmingly intricate, tlazzling. Huffy toilet. The Black Surtout. All these comments lead up to the an nounci m> nt that undersleeves arc bigger than we hav- yet known them, trains are longer, and hat frames, made almost solid ly of pearl beads, are rampant In our streets. Th- < raze of the hour is for a iong. loos, black glace silk coat: this has sudden!} come into rivalry with the Eton coat mad* .?f black moire silk. The moire coat has g.\r th. little lucked taffeta af fair a m ? . rjr place in the general esti ma::on. bi.t any One who owns a gOOO taf feta coatee, anel who wishes to bring it into liro with the prevailing style, must freshly face its revers with tea-coloreel lace and hang a eoupl - of little stitched, leaf-shaped tails to its rear waist line. The heel-long black glace surtout Is meant for stret t wear, and it is rather ?'o<|u> ttislily finished about the shoulders with highwayman ^apes, piped em their edges with white or a line of color. These take the place of the cloth Hurlingham and Hempstead coats so popular last winter, with the difft rene-e that the summer top Coat has prodigious foldtd falling cuffs. ? LIGHT SUMMER WOOL , Box-backed, straight-front cloth carriage coats, three-quarter in length, and draped with accordion-pleated chiffon or gorgeous lace, are the amazing wraps introduced for afternoon wear. One of the excuses for the adoption of these big coats, with their renaissance collars, falling capes of lace and huge sleeves, is that they are actually required as protection against the shrewish spring days when bland sunshine is not to be trusted. More than ever have we forced this season by wearing transparent fabrics and tucked silk muslin yokes and sleeves long before Easter, and your economical woman buys one of these fine coats with the justifiable excuse that it makes a ser viceable evening wrap in winter* after its spring season of usefulness is over. Collars and Shirt Waists. Tassels of silk, gold or silver at the ends of bullion cords, narrow velvet or satin rib bons of th?* same color are one of the pretty momentary fancies for lacing and tying to gether the ends of a collar, or for use in place of hooks on a cuff, and one sees them frequently utilized in place of buttons or links on the cuffs of delicate lawn and wash silk. The extreme fancifulness of the season's shirt waists is not without a reasonable Beige Wool Blue Linen. excuse. Your shirt waist should, in color and trimmings, match the skirt with which you wear it. and the advantage is clearly shown in the nice summer tub suit of Wedgewood blue linen. This shirt waist has a Gibson front, with a band of blue and white needlework over the button flap. The skirt is of the same coarse, cool, blue linen, and its flounce, with a hemstitched edge and a tucked top, is headed by a band of embroidery that matches that on th<- waist. A Yale blue satin ribbon forms the belt and sash for as sweet and service able a gown as a day's Journey through the shops will show. This costume, and its wash madras com | punion, emphasizes the effort that is every where made to give the shoulders great breadth and the hips and waist exceeding slenderness. A wash madras in this in stance is a soft gingham, with line, ?ilky flnish. and this same model has been copied in teak brown Tussore, in sturdy voile d'Avrile and in butcher's linen. Its skirt is laid in side tucks, with their outer creases stitched, and body is given the fullness at the foot by three overlapping tucks, the edges of which are stitched three times. The Eton coat, with its plentiful, shoulder broadening collars, is worn over a black and white pin-dotted shirt of crepe de chine. Lace Incrustations. A half dozen years ago Inserted motifs of lace were Considered very chic, and time and the repetition of this mode of decora tion has not dimmed Its charm and variety. Everything, from the linen shades at our front windows to the most dainty produc tion in night dresses, accepts lace incrusta tions with grace and benefit. There is an aspect of the most sumptu ous extravagance given any material to which lace is applied; a case in point is the afternoon toilet in the double-column cut. This is a clear poppy red silk on the order of a loulslne. It was snatched from the bargain counter for a trifle over 50 cents a yard, and tucked and treated with black lace at 38 cents a yard. Minute steel but tons were lavishly sprinkled upon the straps that broke the surface of the lace-covered waist, and a yard of black panne formed the belt and collar. There was not one ex pensive item in the whole composition of A TUB GOWN OF the gown, and yet the result was rich and brilliant in the extreme. A touch of lace, for that matter, is im portant, and today almost unavoidable in ail the departments of dress. It plays a most serious role with the milliners, and it is used as freely on wool as on isilk. Tete a-tete with the poppy red gown is a smart little study in slag-colored camel's hair veiling, set off with straps of black taffeta. The yoke and undersletves are of coarse black fishnet lace, laid upon white silk, and the taffeta girdle is hdd by an arched gilt buckle covered with heavy turquoise blue enamel. Both of these gowns fasten down the back. Organdies of Many Kinds. There is every indication already given that organdies will outsell all the other thin summer goods. Next after the organ dies come the dotted muslins, with dimities cutting a very small figure. It is as well for the lover of this enchanting fabric to know that there are half a dozen different kinds of organdy?organdy de sole, organdy d'Indienne, organdy that is hand-stamped and hand-embroidered, machine-printed and mechanically embroidered. All of them are pretty, and a machint-made cotton organdy is to the eye of all but the very rich and A Charming Wash Dress. particular woman quite as effective as one with a woof of silk and decorated by ex pert Swiss needlewomen. A very lovely type of ecru, white and colored organdy comes as a , box robe, all tucked and embroidered and prepared for erection Into a gown. One such, bearing the strange new color defined as "milk blue." is shown to a sketch. It is worked In designs of ciel blue and further gar nished with touches of sapphire blue velvet ribbon. The hat, karchlef and sunshade used with this are made of the same or gandy. Very gaily flowered machine-printed or gandy is very much utilled for the making of pretty odd evening waists. To wear with white duck skirts to small country dinners and dances, and the proper fairylike throat ornament to wear with such a decollete waist Is a three-inch-wide and two-yard long strip of white or pale blue silk tulle, strung &t Intervals of half an Inch with tinted imitation pearls. This, wound round and round the neck, sets off the charms of a pretty young throat, or conceals the blemishes of an old one to the greatest ad vantage. MARY DEAN. Gauzy Evening Gowns. Evening gowns are for the most part of the semi-transparent type worn over satin orientale or a bright glace. Many dresses are finished with deep accordion-plated flounces. A deep border formed of tiny frills also makes an exceedingly pretty evening skirt and Is made In crepe de chine, mousseline de sole, chiffon and many types of net. FOR COUNTRY BOUSES FLOWERED DIMITY MAKES PRET TY COTTAGE CURTAINS. r?? City Elegance Reproduced in Simple ? Materials Rural Uses; Written for Tlie Evening St??. i No fabric is nowadiys considered too splendid to hang in one's windows under the guise of a shade or cuctain. When the young Duchess of Marlborough veiled the drawing room windows of Blenhe'm with blue chiffon her touring compatriot said it was a shocking extravagance, but nowadays real lace, worth anywhere from $50 to $150 a yard, is no uncommon sight in the long French windows of new houses put up by our millionaires. The shades and curtains in some houses really merit the descriptive adjective gorgeous, and the elaborate dressing of windows has re cently reached a point almost of absurdity. Four different sets of drapery, piled one MUSLIN AND LACE. upon another, are not considered super fluous for a single window. First come the pane sashes, then the rolled shade, then the long, white under curtains and finally the silk, silk velour, satin or velvet curtains proper that match the furnishings of the room. In one very fine new house, put up at the expense of a man whose money actually bothers him, the decorator estimated the dressing for six drawing room windows at $3.u00 apiece, and his estimate was not questioned. A\ omen who are ambitious t"> garnish their windows with equal elaboration and less expense do not use real lace, silk shades, tinted Indian tissue and brocaded satin, but get almost as nice an effect with cotton point esprit, ivory linen shades and velours, and jut at this season they are A PROPER <H all mightily exercised over the redress'nsr of the windows in their country homes. For a country house drawing room of any pretensions whatsoever to elegance it is necessary to use as elaborate a scheme of window drapery a3 in a city house, but unless the house is one of extreme mag nificence silk and real lace and brocade are not the proper things to use. Pane curtains In a country house par lor should be made of crcam mercerized madras or mercerized lawn of a strong tea color. These sashes should hang flat against the glass and be treated with ap plications of imitation Russ an or Irish crochet lace. It is the shade of cream, antique yellow or ? t?a-brown linen that must be frilled. Of n fashionable make, this has insets of not expensive lace let I in near its bottom cose, or it Is still less expensively woven w'th a tirownwork bor der. To a pointed or sc?Ua.'i& edge the soft, thin linen flounce, lace is set 1 on, and such a shade amor. ' smart THE world is full of active men who di rect the affairs of state, carry on com merce and pursue the professions of science and art. but the perfectly healthy wo man !s far too scarce. There is a crying need for sturdy mothers and active women who make themselves felt in the home and out of it. Wo men should really prepare themselves to un dertake life's responsibilities. It is not strange that sickness is so common among women. The laborious duties of the housewife, coupled with the care of young children,'are too much for the average woman whose delicately poised crgans are easily upset. And women's natural modesty keeps them from complaining about matters connected with the organs of genera tion. They will not tell the story of their suffering to a doctor and they abhor local ex aminations and surgical operations. In this way thousands and thousands of women become invalids and the woman who is healthy and flt for every duty. Is hard to find. If every woman know that Wine of Cardui invariably relieves female weakness when taken as directed there would be fewer sufferers. But all women do not yet realize that suffering female weakness is totally unnecessary when Wine of Cardui can be secured. The relief of over 1,000,000 suffer ing women by Wine of Cardui proves this state ment. Miss Cathryn Lawler of Appleton, Wis., the Secretary of the Indies' Shakesperian Club, Is & lady of high intellectual attainments, and she knows what she is talking al*?ut. She writes the following about her experience with Wine of Cardui: "I have found Wine of Cardui an excellent remedy and am always pleased to call the attention of my friends to it. When that tired, languid feeling comes on you and you lose your appetite and sleep, your head aches and everything goes wrong, I have found that a bottle of your medicine has always restored me. The battle of health is fought in the blood and when Wine of Cardui enters the system it drives disease out, leaving the body free from all impurities. I have given it several trials and as it has never failed me I feel that I am competent to judge of its merits and unhesitatingly recom mend it." A lady like Miss LawW. wl*> has suffered female Ills snd has Iwn-n cured by Wine of Cardui, has a right to regard herself competent to recommend Wine of Cardui to ber *uff? ring winters. It Ik her duty to assume ft?is recpoosl blltty when she knows It will twin# other* health and happinea* the mtov as It brought health snd happiness to her. And who could limit the good that would be done if every woman would take Miss trawler's advice. Every woman who suffers the terrible bearing down aches, sharp, cutting. tainting |?Ina. which always result from menstrual troubles.can take Wine of Cardui now in the privacy of her home. She can begin the treatment at one? without the delay of aeelug a doctor or waiting to have him make an examination. Wine of Cardui eannot harm you. Xo suffering woman can take it without being l?eneflted. The Wine regulates menstruation and the perfect working of tbia natural health function mak?-s a perfeet, ! healthy woman. No woman suffers whose | menses are regular, and to regulate the tnenaes I is the only way to eure female ilia. No woman wants to submit to an o|?*ratlon. And Wine off 1 Cardui is a medicine that make* operation* for j female troubles unnecessary. Wine of Cardui is a medielne you ean buy from your druggist at a bottle and treat your own case if ? j you think you need advice write to The Indies' Advisory Department. The CbittaiK'oga Med icine Co., Chattanooga, Teiin., and deseril?e ! clearly all your symptoms and a letter of advlee j will be sent you. <*r y??u ean get a bottle of Wine of Cardui and begin the eure today 1 I WINE OF CARQU1 Women "wbo ha-re goffered and are now cared know how prfcat a remedy this is. house decorators is called a Monte Carlo blind. For a gay chintz upholstered salon the chief drapery of the window should be satin-surfaced chintz or mercerized cre tonne brilliantly flowered and hung upon under curtains of white lawn that has big, soft shadow flowers stamped upon its surface. The ci"etonne or chintz breadths are very fancifully looped about the top of the window and fastened with crushed rosettes of the same, and while the chintz is not frilled or fringed along its edges, the flounce of the shadow printed under drapery peeps out and does the duty of a finish. The conspicuous poles and rings characteristic of draperies a few years ago have all but disappeared. They are now considered highly inartistic, aad in coun try house bed rooms it is the fashion to use cottage draperies. With enameled fur niture, matting rugs and Gibson .prints. Irish lace and fluffy frivolities look out of -place; the popular recessed and mullioned windows of the artistic bed room should be treated with a frilled top and straight hanging side draperies of flowered dimity to match the frilled mantel lambrequin and bed valance. Upholstery dimities copied from the old English dimities are the ap propriate bed room draperies this spring. They are very flowery and launder nicely. WASHING LACES. With Care They May Be Freshened and Look Like New. From tbe Millinery Trade Review. In washing fine laces, have a strip of flan rfel, on which to baste the lace, using care to have every point basted down smoothly. Make a strong suds with white jBoap and water. Dissolve one teaspoonful of borax in half a pint of boiling water and add to it two quarts of the suds. When this liquid is tepid lay the lace in it and let it soak for ten hours or more. Then sop and squeeze the flannel, but do the work care fully and gently; then squeeze out all the suds and drop the flannel in a bowl of hot suds. Work gently in <his water. Now rinse in fresh water until the water looks % )LFING "RIG.' clear. Finally starch and squeeze as dry as possible. Tack the flannel on a clean board, draw ing it very tight in all directions. See that every p:;rt of the lace lies smooth and tltat ail the meshes are open. When dry cut the basting threads and draw them out very gently. The lace may be tinted in the last itjising water if the dead white is not liked. If the lace is point, or any of the laces with raised dc3igms. It will be necessary to lift the raJaed work with a small, pointed instrument. To starch lace mix one teaspoonful of starch with two teaspoonfuls of cold water and pour on this one pint of boiling water. Place on the lire and add one-fourth of a teaspoonful of sugar and one-fqurth of a i teaspoonful of turn arable which has been ' soaked ir. one tablespoonful of cold water. Boil for live minutes, stirr'ng all the while. Strain through cheeseclot.i. For laces In which only a suggestion of starch Is de sired double the quantity; of water. For C/B aLaSpirite CORSETS FOR THE WOMAN OF FASHION AT ALL LEADING 5TR0USE.4DLER&C0. MANUFACTURERS 412 BROADWAY. NEW YORK. Batiste, Models STMITFORM \ STYU119 India Batiste, the material of which these corsets are made, is pliable, thus insuring comfort, and yet rigid enough to create and retain a perfect form. It is the ideal Summer fabric. The Straight Front models are perfect in design, being made in Akeeping with the very newest ?Kn modes of over-garments. They jES&L ,pr - bring out beautiful curves at ll^Ew ^ 3/ the waist line and create a. sloping effect over the hips, |pk throwing the entire figure into / JVf. an erect military attitude. \ / Ak \ Strait-form models for the f* \ i / 1 \ average figure, more especially I*/1 / , I ( i yijt) ) where there is a tendency to slight- Vtj. ,> //]& / / \ \ XV^4^^.s ness, increasiithe apparent sin* of .. \\\ \ - 1, T// the hips and produce that stylish \^?"Yy / Y \,?-*s i angle from the shoulders to the bust. I V\ J&l i. \ For 5ale Everywhere. Ax? straight fro? \ STYLf 3}9' ; GIRDU STVU IU Detroit New York. Chicago. u -??s . U??- io i?. "lai .np.-???X heavy laces that are required to he rather stiff use only half the quantity of waty. Gum arable starch is made by putting one-fourth of an ounce of the best white gum arabic In a cup or wide-mouthed lit tle. with one gill of cold water. Let It soak for two or three hours, then place in a basin of cold water and put on a fire to dissolve. Stir frequently; strain through a cheesecloth. This makes a very stiff starch. For articles that need to be only slightly stiffened a quart of water or even more may be added to the dissolved gum arabic. In cleaning common laces make the suds as for finer laces and let the lace soak in this for ten hours or more; then rub gently between the palms of the hands. Wash in a second suds in the same manner, then rinse until the water is clear. If the lace is to ue tinted, do it now; then starch. Have a flannel tacked lightly on a board; spread lue lace on ttys and pin to the flannel. Be sure that the lace is drawn out properly, and that each point Is fastened to the flan nel with a pin. Or the wet lace may be drawn out perfectly smooth, covered with a piece of cheesecloth and ironed with a moderately hot Iron until quite dry. To give thread lace a soft, old look, pass it through water that has been slightly "blued" and to which has been added a little black Ink?one drop of ink for every half pint of water. For an ecru tint use tea, coffee or saffron. Make the tinting fluid fairly strong and try a corner of the lace In It; If too strong, add water. Tea is the most satisfactory agent, but it does not give as yellow a tint as coffee or saffron. To clean lace with absorbents, mix to gether equal quantities of cream of tartar, magnesia and powdered French chalk. Spread the lace on a piece of doth and sprinkle It thickly with a mixture and roll up. Let the lace lie in this for a week or ten days, then shake off the cleaning mixture. With a soft cloth wipe the lace. This method will only answer for laces that are not much soiled. To dry clean laces, put the laces In a bowl and cover with naphtha. Let them soak for an hour, then wash by sopping and rubbing them between the palms of the hands. Rinse the lace in a second bowl of naphtha, then pull It Into shape. The tex IF YOUR TWBLI is chronic or a blood dis order, microbes cause it. Rid yourself of these germs, and tihe disease goes with them. This explains why a Jugful of Radam's Mi crobe Killer is worth more in practical results than a whole drug store of other remedies. The only rational cure for Consumption, Bright's Disease, Rheumatism* Ca tarrh, Cancer, and all chronic or blood disorders. It strikes at the cause. You drink it. Write for The Wm. Radarn Microbe Killer Oo? Fret Book. 121 Prince St.. New York, or L. H. MIDDLEKAUFF, Agent, 438 H STKICET N.W.. WASHINGTON. D. C ture of the lace Is not changed In the least by this method of cleaning. If the lac? needs stiffening dly It In a thin solution of gum arable, pin It to a covered board and let it dry. There must be neither Are nor light in the room when the lace la being waahed with the naphtha, and the window* must be open.