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Sl*'cial Correspondence of The Evening Star.
PARIS, June 17. 1003. Exquisite toilets have been worn at the French races this season. One had a skirt of champagne-tinted votle with a short, full-plaited bolero of the same material, trimmed with guipure applique. The cor sage blouse was of white silk, crossed with stitched folds. The hat was of ornamental white straw trimmed with black velvet. Another had a skirt formed of three flounces of white etamlne stitched with tnauva silk. The corsage was laced in front with mauve cord and h^d a shoulder cape like the skirt, stitched with mauve In the same manner. With this costume was worn a white feather boa, with hat of white straw having mauve and white trimmings. Yet a third, perhaps the most beautiful, was of all-over ecru Irish guipure lace. The waist was adorned with a short, plain bolero of the ecru lace and had also a wide collar of the same beautiful material. The GOWNS SEEN AT TH: collar was open at the throat. A hat of rose-colored straw, trimmed with white silk muslin and white plumes, went with this handsome lace gown. I noted many of the toilets and give some of them here as an example of tasteful dressing, show ing how the question of harmony Is studied by Parlsiennes and how pleasant is the effect It will be seen how rarely a hat matches a dress, in the usual acceptation of the word, and how much more telling is a toilet when the hat and sunshade har monize with?In preference to matching?the muslin or lace gown. The Duchesse de Koailles wore a beautiful toilet in embroid ered lawn over pink, with a wide collar In THE SICILI1 Valenciennes; a large drooping hat In rice straw, trimmed with bows of pale blue satin ribbon and bunches of Lii France roses. The Marquise de Loys-Chandieu was in crepe de chine of the color of the mauve hydrangea, with a collar falling over the shoulders in Bruges lace; a large pastel blue hat, with feathers of the same shade. Oomtesse d'Hausonville was in cornflower blue voile, with Mechlin lace in a bow and lom? ends at the throat, and a black hat and feathers, and Marquise de Pracontal wore crushed strawberry foulard with white dots and a pointed cape in guipure; a large white hat and black feathers. With Bussian Embroidery. A very pretty dress was worn by lime, de Guiroye of white linen, with a bolero with Russian embroidery, in bright red and blue threads; a hat with a capeline in bright red straw.with red roses"5Tnd black wings. Cora tes3e Jean de la Rochefoucauld was in a tailor costume of white alpaca, trimmed with Innumerable flat gold buttons; her toque In cream straw and green wings. Ba ronne de 1'Kspee was in white lawn in crusted with Valenciennes.a cravat in black Chantilly. and a toaue of white straw with large rosettes of pale pink and green satin ribbon. The actress Mme. Jane Hading has some magnificent new costumes for her plays. One thing is certain?Mme. Hading intends to captivate her audiences by her dressing of the part. For "La Dame aux Camelias" she has three lovely white dresses?one in tulle embroidered with bunches of labur num in gold spangles, trimmed with Brus sels lace and clusters of white camelias; another in white tulle over pink, inrrusted with guipure and spangled with gold, with stole, bolero and bands of raised mauve hy drangeas in mauve spangles upon muuve tulle, with clusters of red and white ca melias. on one shoulder and on one side of the skirt; the third in crepe de chine with crepe de chine flowers, with a yoke and beil sleeves of lace and a narrow bordering of sable at the bottom of the skirt. For this part she will also wear a cape, falling al most to the knees, in mauve accordion plaited liberty satin with ruchings of mous seline de sole, garlands of silver flowers and cream lace. That Finishing Touch. Very often just now a band and a cravat will between thom edit a whole costume. There Is such a pretty whimsicality In the way some of these clever French falseurs plan a thing like a band of a cravat; and just now, as bands more oft^n contrast with than they match frc-cks. there is much oppor tunity for charm of color?indeed. I begin to want cravats or collars and waistbands em broidered and arrange-d in sets; and me thinks I 3hall be off to my favorite em broideress very soon and get her to carry out for me that embroidered set of collar, cravat and belt of my dreams. And it is in linen I seem to want these, for we may 3 KACES NEAR PARIS. just now put linen to most elegant uses, and it is a charming medium for embroid eries. a delightful texture as a background lor those clever, whimsical stitcheries of the moment. 1 am waiting to see further developments of embroidery and millinery. The time seems to have come for such a move. We have had hats covered with embroidered tulles, chiffons, etc.. and we have also seen some attempts at embroidering the brims ol' straw hats. There is a decided tendency to trimming the white embroidered hats with flowers of two descriptions and colors, and if the se lection is made with carc there is something very uncommon and charming in the result; :nne girl. hut everything depends, of course, upon the Quality of the flower. Extravagance Leads. This season, under the existing condi tions of style, It 1s very difficult for any one with a shallow purse to represent fash Ion with any chance of success. Smart ness has given place to ultra extravagance In detail, and ornamentation on the pres ent day toilets means simply an unlimited amount of hand embroidery at a corre spondingly unlimited price. It is no un common occurrence to hear toilets com mended for their costliness. Exquisite lace, combined with the finest linon em broidery needlework on batiste, completely composed many toilets at the races, where one always goes at this season to learn the fashions. From a distance the bevies of pretty women appeared to be enveloped in white vaporous gauzes. Color was in troduced in the floral hats and brightly toned sunshades, which, by the way, were wonderful in their design. Taken in its entirety it was, indeed, a scene worthy of comparison with the days of the Trianon fetes. Pervading the assembly was the echo of a past epoch, such as the styles of Louis XV and Louis XVI. The tiny rose garlands carried out in flowers as well as in soft shaded silk rib bon, so popular on the marquise hats and as a decoration to the broad, flat lambelle chapeau. are in perfect harmony with the pcmpadour mousseline toilets. This latter class of gowns is quite as charming as the costly embroidered linon batiste and mous seline dresses. They certainly came in for a good share of admiration, especially one or two having the skirts gathered and slkghtly puffed in the old-time pannier fash ion. Short elbow sleeves, furbelowed With flounces, fichus and broad silk scarfs thrown across the shoulders, showed how complete Is the revival of those costumes immortal ized by Nattier and Watteau. Such toilets merit description, for they can be acquired by the woman of limited Income and enable her t6 become a worthy rival of those who can pay unlimited prices for their dresse3 to be made of the most costly embroideries and laces. Taste With Simplicity. Simplicity and refined tastes can thus ef fect a toilet in keeping with the latest de crees of la mode suitable for ordinary oc occasions. CATHERINE TALBOT. MORE BEAUTY DON'TS CULTIVATING AND KEEPING A SWEET VOICE. Melodious Tones Most Powerful of Feminine Charms. Written for The Evrnlns Star. Don't neglect the cultivation of the voice. The charm of a beautiful voice lingers in the mind forever. It stirs the heart; a beautiful face strikes only the eye. Don't think because is it a national in heritance?this mixture of twang, whine, affectation and acridness?that it is impos sible to remedy this one defect of the American woman. Don't lay the fault of dull habits of speech at the door of our language, nor charge It against our climate, that helpless scapegoat of countless iniquities. Har3h ton-s are mainly caused by defective meth ods of breathing. Don't neglect daily breathing exerc\8>is. Only the woman who knows how to breathe properly is going to get the most out of her voice. Deep breathing clears the voica and gives It fullness and softness. L"o;?'t breathe through the mouth, but through the nose; and inhale as deeply as possible. Don't push the sound out with the throat. Enunciate clearly with the lips. Sustain tone with the diaphragm. The vjcal chords will then vibrate musically. Don't try always to speak in a "sweet, low voice." Cultivate variety. Let the t< res be gay. warm, vivacious. Don't expect to speak clearly unless you hold up your head and open your throat as well as your mouth. Let the tone gu?.h forth, If not like the song of a bird, at least in as dulcet tones as you can command. Don't think you can have a good spank ing or bii.glng voice unless you stand erect, with a free, light, buoyant carriage of the body, with the weight carried well on the balls ?l the feet. Don't, when sitting, settle down In a col lapsed attitude, with all the weight rest ing on the small of thv back. Hold the chest h'gh, take long breaths and expand the lungs. Don't let a sleepy, dreamy, unsocial tem per control you, so that you speak In a dull, thick tone at the back of the throat, which Is the most trying of all voices to under stand. Don't t?:.ke life too seriously, if yo\i want a melodious voice. Relax the strain-id muscles of the face and neck and look and be happy and contented. Think of pleas ant things. Don't whine and don't become hypocrit ical, or you will probably have a harsh, rasoin*: voice. Don't tire the voice. If the throat 1s sore, keep the tongue quiet. Common sense is as important a quality in training the voice as it is in everything else. Don't have a company voice, to be put on with your test dresses. Treat yocr family tj your best modulated tones. Don't eyject to have any status in the social world if you have an uncultured, in distinct utterance. A person is given her place by the manner of her speech. Don't despair, even if your voice :s risp ing, drawling, hard, thiri, nasal, with pierc ing head tones or loose and fluffy. With care, time and patience it may become har monious, crystalline, caressing, with va riety of Inflection. Don't think lemon juice a panac fr harshness of voice. While it affords tem porary relief, the strong acid is ex: -finely injurious to the vocal chords. To soothe the congestion that produces hoarseness, nothing is Letter than the white of an egg whipped to a stiff froth. Don't pin your faith to the saving virtue's of strong, black coffee. If you have tc speak or sing for any length of time, a tablespoonfu 1 of glycerine in twic? t'je quantity of brandy relieves the voice. Don't fasten a bunch of flowers on your corsage if you are going to real or sing In public. Some flowers, violets part'eu larly. ha/e a curious effect upon the voice, often causing hoarseness*. Don't imagrne that beauty, dress, man ner. vivacity, style or wit can compensate for a poor voice. "Cnpid bath not in all his qulrtr choice An arrow for the heart like a sweet voice." Wedding Gown Moralizing. Of perennial Interest to women Is the wed ding gown. But Folly is justified of her children, and a pretty wedding Is a very pretty sight. But for all that there is too much made of the wedding gown. The new ly-engaged girl, with a few exceptions, as soon as the excitement of the proposal has abated somewhat, begins to think of and to discuss her wedding gown. Is it to be oys ter or ivory white satin? Is it to have a court train? Is the trimming to be lace or chiffon? Are the orange blossoms to be real, and will it be proper for her to wear her "pearls?" The latter point Is left un decided. for who can tell the form that the gifts of the bridegroom-elect will take? These may lyi diamonds! The engaged lover so often breaks out into diamond stars for the hair! If the engagement is short the matter of the wedding garment tills every spare moment?and a few that should l>e employed otherwise?of the bride elect's time. In her bridal finery she must eclipse all the girls of her acquaintance who have been murried recently. If Minnie Jones had six bridesmaids and one page Ethel Smith must have eight and two small and picturesquo mountebanks to bear her train, and her bevy of girls will look "sweet" in crepe de chine instead of flimsy pongee. A writer says: "No matter what the nationality, the color or the social status of the bride who has given her heart to the man she loves; or who has been given to a husband of her parents' choosing, the mirror never reflects to her eyes any more pleasing picture than herself attired in the costume1 in which she is to enter into the realms of hymeneal bliss. Here is the touch of nature which makes all women kin." "They say he get rich writing the words of popular songs." "Ypt to look at him you'd think he had at least ordinary intelligence."?Chicago Hecord-Herald. How tKt Make Jelly and ,aii Vinegar. A JUIQY SHORTCAKE COOKED JFBXJIT GENERALLY MOBE WHOLESOME. Jam is a Household Staple, but the Other Ways Are Newer. I Written for The Evening Star. Fresh blackberries do not agree with every one. but the cooked fruit Is both wholesome and toothsome. Their short season should, therefore, be utilized for the making of both conserves and desserts. Blackberry jam has long been a house hold staple, and its receipt Is too well known for repetition. But blackberry jelly 13 less common and Is delicious If properly prepared. Blackberry Jelly.?Care should be taken that the fruit, whether it be the wild or the cultivated berry, should not be over-ripe. Over-ripe fruit will not make Jelly, no mat ter how much care Is taken. Put the ber ries in a porcelain or stone-lined vessel, cover it tightly and stand in a second ket tle of cold water. Heat slowly until the I boiling point is reached. Then boll slowly j until the berries are auite soft, which will require about an hour. Put the fruit In a jelly bag and press out all the juice. Then measure and for each pint allow one pound of granulated sugar. Turn the juice into a porcelain-lined kettle and boll rapidly for twenty minutes. Spread the sugar out on large platters and stand in the oven until hot. but do not allow it to color. Add all the sugar to the juice and stir until It is thoroughly dissolved. Remove any scum that may rise to the top, and the In stant the boiling point Is reached take from the fire. Heat tumblers by dipping quickly Into hot water and fill with the hot liquid. I-iet stand until it becomes firm, then cover with patent tops, or pour melted parafflne over the Jelly. Spiced Blackberries.?No relish is more de licious with cold meat than one made of blackberries. For each quart of ripe ber ries allow one-half pound of sugar, and for each four quarts one-half pint of vinegar and one-half an ounce each of cloves, all spice and cinnamon. Put the berries, the sugar and the vinegar Into a preserving kettle. Tie all the spices together in a bag of coarse muslin and add to the fruit. Then place over the_ fire. Heat slowly and boil for four minutes. Then remove the berries with a sktlhmer and place them in a sieve. Return the syrup that drips from this Into the kettle'iand $st it boil until It threads. Put the berries'into a large jar and pour the hot syrup over them or pack in patent jars in the same manner. Cover tightly and store 111 a <kx>1 place. BIackl>erry Vinegar.?Put fresh blackber ries In a stone Jar and cover them with cider vln?gar, allowing one quart of the vinegar to two quarts of the berries. Cover and let strand tof forty-eight hours. Then strain the liquid, keeping the berries whole, and pour over one quart of fresh fruit. Again let it stand for two days, then repeat the process and stand for another forty eight hours. At the end of that time strain through muslin, and to every pint of the liquid add one pound of sugar. Boll gently for five minutes, skim carefully and iet stand at the back of the range for twenty minutes. Bottle.and seal while hot. When a cooling drink W desired add the vinegar to Iced water In the proportion to suit the taste. Steamed Blackberry Pudding.?Pew home makers are aware of the value of a little baker's bread In the making of a batter pudding. To make a simple, wholesome blackberry dessert place three thick slices of baker's bread In a bowl and cover with a pint of sweet milk. Let stand until thor oughly soaked, and then add three well beaten eggs and sufficient flour to make the consistency of a thick batter that will drop from the spoon. Beat all together thor oughly, then add a tablespoon ful of melted butter, one-half teaspoonful of salt, and lastly a pint of well-floured berries. Stir the berries lightly through the dough and pour in a well-greased mold. Cover tightly and steam or boil continuously for three hours. Serve hot with the following sauce: Beat one-half cupful of butter with one half cupful of sugar until a cream is formed. Then add the beaten yolks of two eggs and stand the bowl in a pan of hot water, stirring until the contents are per fectly smooth. Flavor with sherry, brandy or vanilla and a dash of nutmeg. Blackberry Pudding (baked).?To make a delectable dessert for six people use one pint of berries, one tablespoonful of butter, two eggs, one-half cupful of milk, one and one-half cupfuls of flour and one large tea spoonful of baking powder. r.'eat the but ter to a cream and the eggs until light. Then mix the two together with the milk and stir in the flour, which has been sifted from the baking powder. Grease or butter a deep pudding dish, put the fruit In the bottom, cover with the batter and bake until the batter is well cooked. This will take from a half to three-quarters of an hour. Serve with the above described sauce. Blackberry Shortcake.?This Is a little known and tasteful dish. For the crust sift one-half pound of flour with one-quarter teaspoonful of sugar, one-half teaspoonful of salt and two teaspoonfuls of baking powder. Have ready one-quarter pound of butter, which has been washed and placed on tne ice until very cold. Cut this through the flour with a large knife and mix with one-half pint of boiled milk. Work all to gether lightly until well blended, then turn out on the molding board and toss until well floured. Roll out to the thickness of half an inch, then cut Into two rounds of [ equal size. Grease a baking pan and put the rounds of paste upon It, one on top of [ the other, spreading the under layer lightly with butter. Bake in a moderate oven. | Then tear the mounds apart, divide the ! fruit Into two portions, mash one lightly i and sugar well, place over the lower round of crust, cover with the upper round and on top of this arrange the untouched quan tity of berries. Serve warm with powdered sugar and plain or. whipped cream. Blackberry Fritters.-Allow two eggs for one tablespoonful of olive oil. otie cupful of flour, one-haif cupful of cold water one saltspoonful of salt, one teaspoonful of sugar and one tablespoonful of brandy with as many berries as the batter will hold. Separate the whites and yolks of the eggs and stand the whites on Ice till need ed. Beat the yolks till light. thensUrfn the salt and slowly add the oil, brandy and sugar. Mix thoroughly, stir in the flour, a little at a time, and add the water. Beat [ thoroughly and stand In a cool place foTat least two hours. Then add the whites of the eggs, beaten to a stiff froth and stir In lightly the floured berries. Pry in deen ^tfat, drain on brown paper, and serve with hard sauce or powdered sugar. Queer British Seaside Fashion. Shoes, yes; frequently little French heel ed. embroidered, useless things, which re ; vealed the instep and ankle completely but stockings-nevor! And this Is not confined to young girls or children. Fashionable la dies. ready for afternoon tea, in all the tflory of lace flounces, shade hats burdened with frills and flowers, ruffled fichus brooches, rings and bangles, promenade on the beach In tiny embroidered bottlnes, and with the aforementioned lace flounces held so that It is plain-very plain-to be seen that there is no hosiery! This is present-day style In England One day a poor American was called to task by some fashionable Englishwoman for run ning about the beach without a hat "No lady in England ever goes outdoors without her head covered," quoth the reproving British matron. "No lady In America ever goes about with her skirts hitched up and her ankles uncov ered!" retorted the American. THE SHIMMERING- SILKS OF SUMMER. SUNDAY WEAR SILKS Milady Goes to Church in % Nothing Else. FOULAEDS ARE BEST HAIR LINES AND COMBINATIONS ARE FAVORED, TOO. Modest Frocks Interestingly Described in Shape and Trim mings. Written for The Evening Star by Harriet Hawley. A glance around any church or chapel of a Sunday morning discloses little else but costumes of summer silk. Perhaps this is because the airy ruffles of the sheerer mus lins seem too frivolous for so devout an at mosphere. Perhaps It Is due to tradition of preceding generations of worshipers to whom a stiff black silk was the only suit able Sunday frock. So religiously was it kept for this purpose that the same dress might do duty for a half score of years. Milady of today Is not so frugal. She has several silk dresses, even in a single season. Yet In their making, K she Intends them for Sunday wear, she follows some what after the simplicity of her grand mother. Not that the frocks are plain. They are trimmed with lace, contrasting bands of silk or satin, and hand-stitching and embroidery, But they are for the most part devoid of the extravagance which rules the other summer creations. Many of these summer silks are modeled after the linen shirt waist suits. They are suitable for shopping or traveling as well as church, and yet possess a certain quiet elesance. The foulard3 are among the most popular of the summer silks. The polka dot effects are both neat and stylish, and can be fash ioned with very little trimming. A black satin foulard that has a white polka-dot has pipings of white satin. The skirt has the fashionable "Sorosis" flare." It Is laid in fine tucks over the hips. The deep Spanish flounce, which accentuates the flare around the bottom, is headed by a line of piping. A narrow fold of the silk, also headed by piping, trims the bottom of the flounce. The blouse is full and eytremely plain. The silk fits snugly over the chest with ths aid of clusters of wide pleats, which are laid from the shoulder line down to the bust line. Relow this the fullness escapes for the slightly pouched front. Bishop's Tab Collars. The standing collar is extended into odd shaped bishop tabs, piped with white. Slm XASHIOF'S FR liar tabs conceal the shoulder seams and are stitched down over the cap of the sleeve. Each sleeve has a plain cap. six inches deep, finished off by a piped band, which runs around the arm. Below this it falls In a moderate puff over a narrow cuff. Sheer white turn-over collars and cuffs look well on this costume. If red, bright green or pale blue are used instead of white for the piping, the effect is pretty. Another foulard Is in a leaf brown shade, with relieving polka dots In green. It forms a good model for general wear, and illustrates the usefulness of featherlwine in summer frocks which have not enough body to keep their shape. The plain satin which forms the stock, shoulder straps, cuffs and belt Is piped with featherbone. The skirt flares slightly around the bottom and is trimmed by two folds of the silk, laid on six Inches from the bottom hem and apart. A Wash Silk Blouse. so as to simulate flounces. The waist has the curved French waist line and a full pleated front. This latter is trimmed with triple bands of brown satin an Inch wide, 8ti tched with .green. The standing collar Is of tho foulard, or namented by a stitched band and tab of the satin. Similarly stitched bands conceal the shoulder seam and form the belt. The plain sleeves puff slightly over a moderately deep, tight-fltLing cuff, which Is trimmed with a stitched band. A white cravat, with ends trimmed with lace or embroidery, may be worn with this costume to give a touch of contrasting color. Small checks In black and white or other color combinations have been popular for a season or two. It may even be said that their popularity reappears annually. They are always chic and furnish a good back ground for bands or pipings in some solid color. But the hair-line silks are a little more Individual this summer. % A hair-line black and white I.<ouislne has ENCH CUKVJL a tight-flttlnjs skirt. with a deep. graduated, rather scant flounce. The fullness over the hips is managed hy clusters of short, fine tucks. Similar tucks form a heading for the flounce. The blouse waist has a full front laid In fine tucks, which extend down to a low bust line. Over these are appliqued Inch wide bands of white Valenciennes Inser tion. garnished with small black worsted buttons. The shoulder line Is Ion*, and the insertion covers the up per half of the arm hole seam, giving the effect of a deep yoke. The crush collar of the Ix>u:s:ne has an extremely long point in the front, and Is ornamented with the lace Insertion. The sleeve is loose and puffs over a narrow cuff. This is trimmed w>th the insertion bands, and the insertion, applied in the form of a square, ornaments the outer arm above ilia elbow. A black and white hair line taffeta Is even more stylish. It embodies the must salient features of the summer fashions shirr ng, the long shoulder effect, plastron front. French-curved waist line, and sleeves puff ing over a narrow cuff. The skirt has an extremely deep. full, graduated flounce, running from the knees in front almost to the belt line in the back. The fullness Is afforded by a four-inch band of shirring and is hended hy a st.tched band of the silk. Buttons and Cords. The full blouse has a plain plastron front, trimmed by black silk buttons and cord or naments. The fullness over the chest I* kept in place by a ^ur-lnch shirring. The fancy stock collar Is trimmed with lace ap plique. and the stitched tabs, which con ceal the long shoulder seams, are also gar nished with s Ik buttons The sleeves are laid In tucks to the elbows and puff over a narrow cuff. A charming frock, which is built on still more elaborate lines. Is a l.oulsine In a metallic shade of blue The full skirt Is shirred all around the top under a deep pointed ceinture or g rdle. A three-inch band of while [?oint de Venise runs around the skirt below the knees. Th's Is Iwirdered by triple runnings of narrow dull green velvet ribbon Below it are appliqued shorter bands of Insertion, which form an oddly pointed ornament in the front. The full blouse waist is cut out In a point at the neck and worn over a stand ing collar and dicky of the lace. The <dge of the neck is ornamented by an applique band of the ribbon-run lace which extends in oddly poinie i tabs down the front of the blouse. Two shorter bands parallel It over each shoulder, the second one capping ihe sleeve. The big puffed sleeve Is hardly more than elbow length. It is drawn Into a narrow cuff of the lace trimmed w th the velvet ribbon. The ceinture or girdle Is also of the lace fancifully run wlih the ribbon. The st ding collar of the utider vest or dicky is headed by triple rows of the ribbon. A green chiffon parasol, and a smart hat of green satin straw trimmed witli a wreath of cornflowers complete a striking cos tume. SEAS HELLS NOW THE LATEST FAD FOB THE SUM* MER GIBL. Myriad of Odd Ways to Decorate % Hot Weather Abiding Place. Written for The Evening Star. No pearl-crowned mermaid of fairy tales ever delighted more In her shell treasures than the summer girl of today whoa* happy lot lands her at the seashore. Each ebb tide leaves new wonders in it* wake, and tho decorative and useful possi bilities of these "kisses of the sea," as soma cne has called them, are almost startling when evolved from the clever brain of soma original girl. One of the oddest Ideas Is a shell dado for the den In a summer cottage. Putty win do as a foundation. One girl who had no chance of securing it simply used a heavy coating of glue on burlap. If a harmonious tint is chosen, the effect is good, although the glue Is not so durable as the putty. Picture molding will do as a finish for top and bottom and also form a supporting frame for the putty. After laying In a sur face of this to work on. add the shells the same as In mosaic designing. Clam and oyster shells will do for borders, and ths more fancy varieties can be used In all kinds of fantastic patterns for the center. The putty will harden readily, and the re sult Is striking and picturesque, as well a* permanent To a girl who has any taste for modellrc, the (time Idea may be carried out In vases. A shell-lncrusted Jardiniere makes a unique ornament for a summer porch, and even a cigar box may be transformed with a thin coating of putty and a mingling of small scalloped shells and periwinkles into any thing from a work box to a hairpin tray. The periwinkles make the prettiest chains and can be pierced with a common needle for stringing. By alternating the pink and white variety with the dark and only choos I Ing the smallest ones, a necklace can be | made that would grace the throat of a l,ur i line. There is a small oval shell found along r rocky coasts that is like a ( rystalllxed rose | leaf in thinness and coloring. It is as deli | cate and dainty as a baby's nail, and shades from a deep pink to orange and a pale green. A Shell Portiere. It can be used In all manner of ways where the heavier shells are impracticable. One of the simplest uses is to string them for portieres, the same as bamboo curtains are made. One girl made belts of them for herself and her friends by overlapping them like scales and using two rows for each belt. Worn with one of the popular linen suits, the effect was charming. The best shell souvenir to take home to father, brother or the beloved one Is a paper weight. After a heavy sea., frag ments of green-stained rocks, with all shapes and sizes of oysters fastened to them, are cast up from the oyster beds. If left in the sun the oysters dry out and tho shells can be hand-painted, or left natural, as preferred. A good Idea for a receptacle for stamps or loose pens is to driil lioies In a blue point shell and hinge the two parts together. Even if one has not the knack of con struction there is still the shell cabinet which every seaside girl should possess, in which to exhibit her trophies when the days grow chill and summer birds fly home. A few small shelves, stained dark and hung or fastened In any corner, will do, with a bunch of seaweed trailing down from the top and a few crabs dangling off the edges. The filling of the shelves should be a mat ter of individual taste and selection. Toques Popular in Paris. From the Mlillnery Trade Review. Toquets and quite small hats are made for wear in Paris, but their numbers are somewhat restricted, and the capote mere ly looms as a future possibility. On the other hand, fewer large picture hats are seen than usual at this season of the year. So far as hats go, it is the medium sizes that prevail most. The toques, however, are decidedly voluminous and their brims turn or roll up very high, at least In front and at the sides. Many of the latter are of plateau form In the center, the brim rolled up In a grace ful curve from the front and ears, its bor der converging inward and npparently kept in this position by the trimming. Others, also flat In the center, have the brim turn ed up all the way around, but slanting somewhat outward. Nevertheless, a stiff appearance is avoided by the use of loose ly woven braids. Moreover, the brim may wave slightly, but not enough to give a regular tricorne effect. Toques with the brim turned straight up against a wide flat crown, on the contrary, have a solid stiff appearance, particularly noticeable where fine English straw Is used, or plain braids arranged In leaf or shell form set flat against the brim and lapping one over the other. At the race meet held In honor of King Edward. Mme. Lou bet wore a toque of this sort in fancy Tuscan braids trimmed with a white feather fastened In front, transversing the top of the crown. Its tip curling down in the neck behind. These toques are much affected by women no longer young. Whers s sauare or semi-circular notch Is cut out of the back so as to form "ears" at ths ?Idea, they approach bonnets vary nearly.