Evening star. [volume], December 12, 1903, Page 4, Image 32

About Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972

Image provided by: Library of Congress, Washington, DC

                
Special Correspondence of The Evening Star.
PARIS. November 28. 1003.
The feelings of this present generation,
which Is not given to hilling its light under
a bushel, are never more evident than at
Christmas time, or, rather, the busy days
preceding the holiday season. Instead of
the hearty spirit of hospitality which once
reigned under the wldespreadlng rooftrees,
the sole idea of Christmas cheer now
abroad among smart Parisians is to leave
home to the domestics, relegate revelry to
the servants' quarters and fly the occasion
of family parties by taking rooms at some
fashionable hotel. This modern spirit Is
not to be commended and does not carry in
Its wake the Christ teachings which were
democratic, with universal good will to
men, and not snobbish exclusiveness. But
we are modern nowadays, exceeding mod
ern. and the ways of other days are not
our ways.
A few Parisian grandes dames who lead
the fashion in Ideas as well as in modes
have sat the new Chiistmas pace, and their
clientele will not be slow in following in
their footsteps.
This holiday exodus naturally hastens the
Christmas present-buying eason. for it' the
spirit be lack.rig the Christmas gifts will
not be found wanting in number or in kiud.
The shops hav.- already put on their most
fascinating holiday atlire and are daily
bringing out some so-called novelty. Of
course the Kue de la Paix and the Hue de
Rivoli. with the r flittering shops and ele
gant array of w ? s. are the streets where
the Christmas suuppers go for their most
stunning presents. Hut it is .surprising how
many limes <>n? meets madame in the de
spised Hon Marche. and always walking
around with that unmistakable caught-in
tlie-act and "I-haven't-an-idea-why-I'm
here" air. If one elegant woman m?-ets an
other in this plebeian precinct the first re
mark usually heard is. "Run in. my dear,
just as I have, to get something for the
troublesome servants."
The truth of the matter often is that these
same women were at the moment of meet
ing engaged in selecting a gift for one an
A Smart Motor Coat.
other, to be sent, no doubt, elaborately dune
up in the wrappings of an exclusive house.
Well, some one has said If women had
logical, scientific minds they would lose
ail charms: so I suppose whatever her little
failings they lean toward fascination's side.
Always Bight.
Furs and jewelry seem to be the leaders
In the gift line The furs of the season are
so luxurious in make-up and so extravagant
In price that one accepts thern gratefully as
CARRIAGE COAT Utf 3
)fumM
a Christmas present even Jf they do come 1
under the head of necessaries.
One set of furs is merely an aggravation
In these days as the perfectly gowned per
son must not be seen constantly wearing a
certain k'nd even should they be priceless
sable. The fur must needs match or at
least harmonize with the costume, or all
smartness Is lost.
There is no reason why furs should be so
high except in the case of sealskin, perhaps,
which is getting scarce. Take ermine, for
instance. It has always been a royal fur;
nevertheless every child used to have a tip
pet and muff made of a good skin, and
nothing remarkable was thought of It- ti&w
we have to pay a king's ransom for even a
little of the skin to use as a trimming. ,
Ermine Cravat.
One of the Christmas novelties Is a little
ermine cravat which may be -worn over any
kind of a fur coat or velvet jacket. Some
of these cravats have black velvet ribbon
rosettes and strass buckles to fasten them.
Others are ornamented with a narrow
Sable Pelerine and Muff.
edging of moleskin, and from the ends hang
long strands of black and white chenille
fringe.
Another case of extremes meeting is the
simultaneous popularity of very large fur
stoles and the little ties. The ties look best
with the long coats and the large stoles
with the short jackets. An ample coat and
stole make one a perfect elephant in pro
portions.
One could write a volume upon the beau
ties of the new muffs, their expense (the
cheap muff does not exist: at least the
cheap muff that can be officially recogniz
ed). their manifold shape and form and the
thousand and one materials that go into
their making.
Muffs Are Large.
Muffs may be counted details, but such
details go to prove the rule that they are
the important items in a woman's toilet.
The muff of today is large and therefore
practical, it is not too tightly stuffed and
may he pressed to the face as a defense
against the icy blasts that blow around
every corner in winter.
It is most artistic in its shape, the name
ot which is legion, and is made of many and
delightful materials that vary from the fur
which will resist" all wear and weather to
the chiffon which will stand neither. A
new model is barrel shaped and looks as If
it wore fiat, with large frills at the sides.
This shape is ideal carried out in Russian
dfcMe and adorned with many tails. The
new caracal, Persian paw lamb and chin
chilla all make up beautifully Into these
large styles. Krmine in a muff looks better
slightly draped, as do all the thinner furs,
which are at their best when not tightly
strained over a wadded surface, especially
if the muff be large.
The model which attracts me most is the
heart-shaped one that Langtry has made
popular. It is a remarkably pretty affair
and in lonK-haired fur like sable or the dif
ferent shades of fox. looks remarkably well.
Frivolous Finery.
The French adore the muff made of vel
vet. chiffon and all kinds of frills and feath
ers. To wear with a brown net dress has
been constructed the daintiest little hand
warmer of the same material. The brown
net is of tl^e coarse-meshed silk variety,
which stands wear without end. Mink tails
are the trimmings used, and the muff is
40NKEY AND ERMINE.
lined with brown velvet This velvet lining
Is a clever Parisian dodge, as the soft lin
ing clings to the gloved hand, and one does
not have to hang on "like grim death" to
the net ephemerallty.
The fur plushes are not far behind the
real skins In favor. These plushes make
such pretty coats to wear with cloth sklrta
and line many of the long cloaks. In some
cases whole costumes are composed of this
material, particularly In mole color. The
pardonable weakness for the always be
coming white effects will Insure a popular
ity for the cream caracal plush that has
been introduced with the other fur-Imitating
plushes.
To come back to the Christmas present
subject, antique Jewelry or a reproduction
of the antique Is another gift the smart
woman will value most this year. Salique
designs are unquestionably the "thing," but
as they are very expensive are not within
the reach of all. The Celtic Antique Jewelry,
which gets its name from being Imitations
In miniature of the designs on Celtic crosses,
Is very much prized. Carried out in semi
precious stones, a buckle, pendant or clasp
is a thing of beauty to be coveted.
Dainty Trifles.
Dainty trifles for my lady's dressing ta
ble are always plentifully supplied in the
Parisian shops. A pretty woman must al
ways looks attractive, seem fresh, untlred.
unexhausted, even If she Is all these and
knows It. One touch from one of the magic
boxes which laden the dressing tible, and
time and the hour are obliterated. As one
smart woman said, it Is only in expedients
of this kind that life is possible. The charm
ing "possibility" comes this season in many
alluring forms, but the Sevres china toilet
accessories are the newest and most ap
proved. Very ingenious is a little round I
Ivory box about the size of an American '
quarter of a dollar with a beveled glass
top. The lid screws off. and inside are re
vealed the tiniest powder puft imaginable
and a sprinkling of red or white rouge. Oh,
yes. it's all very frivolous and vain, but It
is a nice Companion to have with one when
| traveling and one actually feels one's nose
getting shiny.
CATHARINE TALBOT.
HOVEL DECORATIONS
Dazzling Ideas for Christmas
Tree Fixings,
AN ORIENTAL COLOR
ORNAMENTS THAT WILL MAKE
PRESENTS LATER.
A Picturesque Ceremony Round the
Tree When Put on
Exhibition.
Written for The Evening Star by Anna R. Walker.
Less than ?2, properly expended, will deco
rate the Christmas tree beautifully in a
novel fashion, and give no end of pleasure.
The chief thing to consider is the color
apd effect. The materials employed are
really secondary. There will, of course, be
j a cobwebby mass of loose silver tinsel coiled
in and out and over the tree in a bewiider
[ ing labyrinth, and strings of popcorn, holly
j berries and cranberries. Tradition demands
their use in connection with the novel orna
ments.
Small and Inexpensive souvenirs of Japa
nese lanterns and opened parasols will give
a unique touch of oriental color to the
Christmas tree. From every available tip
tiny bells, hearts, stars, guitars, banjos
and papier mache animals, such as rabbits,
j donkeys and reindeers, should be suspended.
If desired, the animals may be of cake, as
molds are made especially for this purpose.
The stars and hearts may be cut from
bristol board ajid given a coat of glue, then
dipped in mica or metallic flock.
Small red and green apples may be used
to good advantage for decorative purposes
by sticking them with tiny crepe paper
I flags. They should be suspended from the
I boughs by braids of red, white and blue i?a
per.
Walnuts. hlckorynuts, peanuts pine 1
cones, etc., will help the decorative scheme I
also, if they are gilded. The best thing to
accomplish this result is smalt, which is
{ kept by paint dealers, and comes in gold
| silver and all the metallic shades.
I First, dissolve a cake of glue in boiling
| water, place a tack in the end of the nut
j or object to be immersed, dip in the liquid
j glue, roll in the smalt and dry. Later, when
ready to suspend from the tree attach
bright red ribbon to the gilded tack, and
hang in some of the places that look bare.
Gilded Nuts.
Another novelty which will please the
children is to take the shells of the walnut,
sl.t so they will be intact, remove the
meats, gild or silver the empty shells, then '
lace a tiny doll, candy or motto Inside, and
tie with bright colored baby ribbon.
It is almost impossible to have too many
objects for trimmings, as the tree is like a
yawning chasm?hard to fill.
Little Chinamen. dangl ng by their
queues, and Japanese lads and lassies, peer- j
ing furtively .out from among green boughs,
will create a great deal of amusement for
the occidental boys and girls whose eyes
are eagerly fixed on the tree. Milkmaids,
Jack Horners, Brownies, gnomes and
fairies will also be an attraction, and they
may serve as bonbon receptacles as well.
To make a milkmaid, for instance, use
bristle board, and shape .n an oblong round
box. Fit a bit of pasteboard for a b'lttom
and make a cover likewise. Fill with can
dies and nuts. Then take an ordinary
bisque doll, which may be purchased at any
lli-cent store, break oft the legs and glue
the body to the box. Next proceed to dross
the little cripple In a diaphanous crepe
paper gown of some dainty color.
Doll Bonbon Boxes.
One of the latest novelties for these doll
bonbon boxes is to dress them in evening
gowns, en train and decollete, adding a
picture hat, a wiap and boa in some con
trasting shade. Black accessories are very
fashionable for these m'dgets. Another
pietty idea is to make tiny closed parasols
of crepe paper, glued to a toothpick and
fasten in the hand of little m lady?a sim
ple matter, as a trial w 11 ponvince. Plumes
for the hats are made by slashing a strip
of folded paper, curling the fringe over a
toothpick and plaiting on the hat. Muffs
too, are beautifully fash'oned out of paper'
with a bunch of tiny violets added for trim
m.ng. With long coats, boas and p'cture
hats, these bonbon dolls are quite stunn n?
especially the golden-haired, blue eyed ones'
A useful gift which will help to make
the tree look pretty is the twine doll, dress
ed handsomely In crepe papers?pink and
black, red and yellow, yellow and black or
blue and bla?k, with hat to match, and
white paper petticoats. Quite a good-slxed
doll will be needed for this novelty, at
least a fourteen-lnch one. Break the legs :
off close to the body and glue the body
to a twine receptacle in which Is a ball of
twine. The costume will, of course, need
to be voluminous.
Little pixies can be made to peer out
of unexpected nooks on the tree. They,
too. are made of small bisque dolls about
six Inches long, fastened on an oval piece
of cardboard three Inches In diameter for
a standard. This cardboard should be cov
ered with crepe paper, which may conceal
several layers of felt or chamois skin for
a penwiper. Lavender and white paj>er with
plenty of gilding will give a beautiful ef
fect.
Tissue Shaving Balls.
Shaving balls made or tissue papers in
dainty colors, and immense fluffy balls to
which are fastened loops of paper ribbon
with bows, are useful gifts and uinque for
tree trimmings.
Electric light shades made in the shape
of an enormous cabbage rose, yellow, for
Instance, with two buds dangling and an
abundance of green leaves against the wire
frame, will be welcome gifts to some one
after they have served as Christmas tree
decorations.
Still another clever idea for the tree which
will serve for trimming first and gifts later
on are hatpin holders, which are made of
empty talcum powder boxes. Remove the
top and stretch a piece of tarletan across
It. Fasten securely, then "dress" the bo*
In crepe paper, making a double frill at the
top. To trim tt|ke a pond Illy or rose
with a bud. lea-Jag the long stem to wind
gracefully arouad the 'box. Fasten the
blossom securely tn front, and the useful
ornament Is finished. Women who are
forced to stab hatpins tn cushions or leave
them loosely In their dresser drawer be
cause of no better place to put them, will
appreciate such a gift, trifling as it is.
There was a time when ugly chains were
made of paper' and looped on the trees.
Nowadays. Instead of this barbarity, beau
tiful tissue and crepe papers are fashioned
into garlands. Tans, parasols, horns and
such gifts as are described in the fore
going.
One of the prtettlest suggestions for dis
tributing the smaller gifts Is to have them
imbedded in artificial oranges. This may
be done with either muslin or paper, and
though many of the articles will not fit the
receptacles, they can be made to do so by
a little p&dding with cotton or tissue paper.
Orange-colored crepe paper makes the most
realistic oranges. They are not only pleas
ing to the children as novelties, but add
greatly to the appearance of the tree itself.
They should be suspended by orange satin
ribbon, or by braided lengths of crepe
paper, which Is more effective, to carry out
the idea. When nestling among the dark
green boughs of the tree they look exceed
ingly pretty and suggestive.
Some of the small packages may be con
verted into snowballs by wrapping the
gifts in cotton batting and sprinkling with
tinsel powder. If there are lights on the
tiee, the glittering snowballs will be the
chief attraction to the animated little peo
ple.
A Domino Tree.
A "domino tree" may be easily trimmed
as follows: Make a layer cake, baking In a
shallow tin. When the cake is cold it
should be cut Into oblong pieces the shape
and size of dominoes.* A tin cutter can be
purchased, or' the tinner can make one.
Dip the tiny cakes in a boiled icing, using"
toothpick "'spears" to accomplish this re
I suit. When the Icing is cold make the dom
ino lines and dots with melted chocolate,
using a toothpick for the purpose. Each
domino may be tied'separately to a tiny
twig with red baby ribbon or the cakes
may be strung In loops. Several hundred
of these goodies scattered about the tree
will give a dazzling effect and please the
little folks Immensely.
Snowball cakes may be made by baking
cup cakes which should be trimmed Into
shape, then iced generously several times
and rolled In desiccated cocoanut. A tooth
pick spear may be thrust in each one to
suspend it.
Attractive ornaments can be fashioned
for the tree out of candies. For Instance,
make some glace with half a cup of water,
one-fourth teaspoonful of cream of tartar
and half a pound of loaf sugar. Boll until
it thickens in cold water. Dip into this
fresh rose or violet petals. Spread the glace
thin In a pan and score It Into butterflies'
wings. Cut marshmaliows into thin strips
for the bodies and press the wings into
them. Next proceed to cover the white body
with streaks and flecks of chocolate, dotting
the wings with tinted fondant.
Chocolate Dolls.
Other oddities in the shape of dolls may
be made of chocolate creams. Take one
bonbon for the head and two more for the
body. Each one Bhould be speared by a
' toothpick. Pinch one side of the chocolate
cream until it looks something like a nose,
j Cut out a piece on either side for eyes;
make another slash for the mouth, then
with a toothpick make imitation hair on
the Topsy. Dress in a crisp red paper
gown, with a black sash, and suspend from
the tree with black baby ribbon.
Artificial snow on the topmost branches
of the tree will add to Its wintry appear
ance. To make, dip bits of cotton Into glue,
then sprinkle with mica to imitate the
sparkle.
The Illumination of the tree is an impor
tant problem, for by the indiscreet use of
candles many a joyous Christmas has been
turned Into one of mourning. Tiny Japa
nese lanterns are much safer than un
shielded candles, and they give a prettier
effect. The small square lanterns with col
ored mica sides are also safe, for they
have a sponge In the bottom that may be
saturated with kerosene. When the wick
Is lighted It burns brightly and lasts long
er than ordinary wax candles.
The Festal Time.
A pretty little ceremony may be partici
pated in by the children before and after
the distribution of the girts. When every
thing is in readiness the little people are
Invited Into the room and told to sing their
welcome to Santa Claus, for of course the
patron saint is expected. In the midst of
the lively song, "Santa Claus is Coming,"
1 good old St. Nicholas appears on the scene,
j snow-besprinkled and jolly, with a pack on
1 his ba' k and to the music of sleigh bells,
i The children salute him with "All hail!
Good Santa Clans, on this merry Christ
mas eve.'
Santa Claus responds cheerily, and the
distribution of the gifts proceeds At the
close of this part of the program St. Nich
olas says ? Good night" to his subjects. At
this signal the little people rush forward
i and surround the tree under which he
stands. All joining hands, they sing Jolly
Old St. Nicholas," and circle about the
tree. After several lively Christmas songs
they remain quiet about St. Nicholas and
sing their good-night song, to which he re
sponds with many bows of appreciation.
WOMEN'S WORK IN JAPAN.
Girls Employed Now as Conductors of
Railroad Trains.
From tlw I?n<ion Telegraph.
The social condition of woman is a
fairly trustworthy measure of the civil
ization of a state, and Judged by this
standard Japan has not yet reached the
summit of western culture. This fact,
however, is not a reproach, seeing that it
is not long since even European nations
have bridged the abyss which sunders
former barbaric customs from the hu
mane legislation of today. And the Jap
anese are even now working hard to imi
tate us. Hitherto, and, indeed, at the
present moment, the ranks of female
"hands" in Japan are recruited from
among the rural population by agents,
who induce the country lasses to sign
contracts for quite a number of years?
the best portions of their lives. And the
wages averaged 3d. a day! For that
miserable mess of pottage the girls not
only labor hard during working hours,
but permit themselves to be wholly iso
lated from the outer world, just as if
they were In a prison, a hospital or a nun
nery. Thus they are entirely in the power
or their employers, the least scrupulous
of whom take an unfair advantage of
their helplessness. Thanks to the initia
tive of the press and to the high spirit of
a few wealthy firms a strong and lurid
light has been thrown upon those dark
places of Japan, and redress is already
in sight. The Manchester of the mikado's
realm is Osaka, and it was the terrible
state of things in vogue in the mills and
works of that city which first attracted
attention. The slaves of the southern
states of North America had a better
time than some of the wretched girls in
Osaka, the products 01 whose labor were
thrown upon European markets at nom
inal prices. Happily the Guild of Weav
ers has now set to work to better the lot
of these helots, and its efforts are being
reinforced by government employes.
Curiously enough, in the higher call
ings and professions which require skill
or scientific training instead of mere
manual labor there was hardly any field
for woman's activity. Thua in none of
the ministries or government offices was
a woman to be found as civil servant.
The respectable firms of merchants like
wise rigidly excluded members of the
fair sex, refusing to employ them as
saleswomen; only in a tew cheap bazaars,
where the work was very fatiguing and
the pay utterly Inadequate, were women
to be seen behind the counter. But here,
too. a beneficent change is now being
made. The firm of Mitsui, the weavers,
for example?one of the wealthiest in
Japan?has Just decided to take on girls.
For a considerable time past women
have been engaged at railway stations, I
especially In dealing with passenger traf
fic, and now the Sanui line, which had
hitherto eliminated the female element, j
has completely broken with its tradl- I
tlons, and in future ?he passengers by
that company's line will be looked after
by lady conductors and perhaps lady con
trollers as well. The crown prince of
Japan takes a keen interest In this move
ment, which aims at making life less
miserable to his future female subjects,
and he has begun by setting an excellent
example. He has married but one wife
and has allowed it to be generally under
stood that he is, and intends to remain, a
monogamist to the end of his days.
LUXURIOUS PURS
Mole Has Displaced Squirrel
Skins.
THE HUMBLE MONKEY
EBMIME PIECES HAVE GBOWN
LARGER.
Therefore Are Much More Expensive?
Other Costly
Fads.
Written for The Evening Star by Harriet Ilawley.
One of the largest fur importers in this
country sat at his de6k last August when
the thermometer was in the nineties and
explained why he could not take time for a
vacation.
"I am too busy bringing in furs," he ex
plained, "and they are mostly for the holi
day trade."
The Christmas fur trade has become the
largest factor in the season's selling. In
deed, It Is safe to predict that the sun of
December 25 will shine upon more women
made happy by new furs than ever before
In the course of its long and varied experi
ence. This is so because the world of man
kind has discovered that no more accept
able gift for wife or sweetheart can be
bought. From Maine to Louisiana, what
ever the temperature, women will wear
furs, and wear them lavishly.
But there are furs and furs. Dame Fash
ion is never so capricious as in the realm
"?f furs. The favorite of last season is
ruthlessly cast aside. This winter she has
a new one. It is moleskin. It is soft and
velvety, and makes a good background
for the lace applique and colored passemen
teries which are adorning the fur coats
and Jackets?a whim of fashion that seems
somewhat barbaric, but is meeting with
high favor, nevertheless.
Buttons in gilt or enamel, in bizarre
designs, are Jjeing used extensively on the
fur jackets. An elegant little moleskin
jacket is in a blouse shape, drawn into a
tight-fitting belt. It has a moderately deep
cape fitted to the shoulders and slashed up
in points. These points are turned back
to show a facing of brown satin, em
broidered in gold and white and held in
place by gilt buttons. The bell sleeves are
rather severe and tight-fitting as far down
as the elbow, but thence widen out into
large puffs. The bottom of each sleeve is
adorned with a small turn-zback flap, faced
with the embroidered satin.
Mink and Leather.
A mink coat Is treated in the same fash
Ion, except that the facings are of white
suede leather, appliqued with a leaf design
in tan suede, and the belt is of the same.
Since moleskin has "become fashionable, it
has so vastly Increased in price that imi
tations and substitutes are already flooding
the market, and some of them are most I
clever.
Since fur is so much used in millinery,
enterprising dealers are showing flir sets,
which consist of a toque, pelerine stole and
great flat muff. An attractive set of this
description is of moleskin. The stole ends
reach below the knees and widen out into
pointed ends. 'Ihtse are trimmed with or
ramenta of silk braid with cord and ball
pendants. The same trimming appears as
on the muff, the ornaments being joined by
draped silk cord, in military effect.
Very few of the new sets are in squirrel,
but after the surfeit that the world of
women had of it last year, this will cause
srrall regret. Mink, marten, sable and
moleskin are all correct, either for separate
fur pieces or wraps', or for dress trimmings.
Fur trimmings will be largely used on
A WRAP IN M
both street and house dresses. Moleskin is
proving effective when combined with
velvet.
Monkey Fur Again.
Another fur which has a partial revival
Is monkey. It is used for jackets trimmed
with ermine or other contrasting fur. The
stoles, with muffs to matcn, are very pret
ty in monkey.
For many seasons white lamb's wool has
been delegated to Infants' wear. The dain
ty little collar and muff sets were much
admired on the four-year-old toddlers, but
modistes are just awakening to the Idea
that lamb's wool may be quite as dainty
for wear by the grown-ups. The craze for
white has started the notion. Now effect
ive wraps and coats for women are made
of this snowy fur. contrast being given by
a trimming of stitched bands of soft-fin
ished cloth.
A chic fur evening wrap is of white
lamb's wool, with strappings and edgings
of pale blue cloth. There is a cape collar
with stole ends of the fur, but the small
collar overlapping this is of the blue cloth,
and so are the fluffed undersleeves. The
carriage shoes for wear with this wrap are
particularly dainty. They are of blue
satin, edged with the lamb's wool.
Big Bag Muffs.
The big bag muffs which Dame Fashion
affects this season are particularly pretty
on the lamb's wool. So are the short col
larettes. They are fastened In front with
a gilt clasp set with turquoises, and the
short ends, which barely reach to the bust
THB
BEST CHRISTMAS GIFT
FOR WIFE, MOTHER, DAUGHTER,
SISTER OR SWEETHEART?A
SINGER
Sewing Machine.
tiy tiiis sign SINGER
you may know >] STORES
and will r<rid everywhere
?S70BE> HV
THESE MACHINES ARE NOW BEING
SOLD AT LOWER PRICES, QUALITY
CONSIDERED, THAN ANY OTHER.
WHETHER YOU PROPOSE THE PURCHASE
OF A MACHINE OR NOT, THERE IS MUCH
TO INTEREST MOST WOMEN AT ANY SINGER
STORE-AND ALL ARE CORDIALLY INVITED.
\
del2&19-2t
line, are trimmed with heavy white silk
fringe.
The short collarettes. no matter in what
fur they are fashioned, are trimmed and
fastened in this manner. The metal clasps
afford another outlet for extravagance,
which is eagerly seized upon by jeweler
and modiste. The fringe is frequently of
a contrasting color, either alone or mingled
with white
Nor is silk cord the only material for the
fringe. Chenille is equally as popular, and
has an even prettier effect. An ermine
collarette has the short ends finished with
a slx-lnch-deep fringe of alternate strands
of black and white beads. It is bizarre
enough to please the most outre fancy.
| Ermine has its usual vogue among smart
people. The f?.d for black and white has
led to more than usually frequent imita
tions, but it seems almost impossible to
imitate it effectively.
Small Ermine Scarfs.
Ermine pieces usually take the form of
small collarettes and tiny muffs to match,
but this season it is being used much more
lavishly. A long stole is made of the Ani
mals entire. The skins are put on alter
nately, heads and tails up, the heads being
left on. The stole is very broad, probably
four skins In width. The broad pouch-like
muff Is twice as wide.
The new bag-like muffs are not partic
ularly pretty from an esthetic standpoint,
nor for an economic one. They consume an
almost incredible amount of fur. and there
if much waste space which might have
been utilized for a shopping bag. The
opening for the hands has been moved from
I the center of the sides to the very top. It
OIRE ASTEAKAN.
barely admits the two hands, and leaves
scant room for handkerchief or pocket
book.
Moleskin has this advantage over many
other furs?it comes naturally in many
different shades. Light and dark moleskin
are combined effectively in own piece. A
pretty little collar, or pelerine, has broad
stole ends, which come to the waist line.
Both collar and stole ends are formed of
a strip of light-colored moleskin, bordered
by a darker shade. The same plan is fol
lowed with the muff, though on It the
stripes run crosswise.
Some of the fur pelerines have very nar
row stole ends. These are intended to be
crossed over the breast In a quaint fashion.
They are held in place by a metal clasp
or an ornament of soutache braid. The
long stole ends ere usually trimmed with
similar ornaments. They give a rich ef
fect.
A Pretty Christmas Decoration.
Procure a square of silver tinsel for the
table center. At the four corners put
vases, with sprigs of holly in them, and on
the tinsel sprinkle a quantity of loose holly
berries. If finger bowls are used have sev
eral berries floating in each one.
As Explained.
From tbe Chicago News.
Myer?"It is a. well-known fact that old
Gotrox is a millionaire, yet you say he has
a light income."
Gyer?"Of course he has a light Income.
Isn't he president of a gas companyT"
Some Good Things for Christmas.
Boiled Turkey and Oyster Slutting.?Take
a medium-sized turkey and stuff It with
the following ingredients: Chop four ounces
of suet very tine, mix it with six ounces of
i biead crumbs, the grated rind of half a
lemon, a teaspoonful of chopped parsley,
salt, ?ayenne pepper and grated nutmeg to
taste. Take the beards off two dozen
oysters, add them and the.r liquor, strain
ed, and lastly two eggs. Truss tlio bird, tie
it in buttered paper and then in a cloth.
Place the turkey breast downward in boil
ing water, let it oome again to boil, skim
it well and simmer gently for one hour
and a half or longer, according to the s z*
of the bird. Serve with rich white sauce.
Chicken Timbalos.?Put the raw breast
of two chickens through a meat chapper
and add a teaspoonful of salt and a dash
of pepper. Into this mixture put, one at a
time, the beaten whites of three eggs and
then a pint of cream. Small tlmbale molds
should be well buttered and then lined at
the bottom with buttered paper. Fill the
mold two-thirds full of the chicken and
bake in the oven in a pan surrounded by
hot water. When ready for serving turn
from the molds and place around the tlm
bales a white sauce.
English Walnut and Orange Salad.?Peel
and slice lengthw.se four oranges. Pour
over them four tablespoonfuls of olive oil
and one tablespoonful of lemon Juice. Ar
range the dressed oranges on lettuce leaves.
Have ready one cup of walnut meat which
has been mixed with one tablespoonful of
oil, a dash of salt and a little lemon juice.
Toss all together before serving.
Christmas Plum Pudding.?Crumble a
pint of bread crumbs from the center of a
stale loaf and pour over them one cup of
scalded milk. When cool add three-quar
ters of a cup of sugar, one teaspoonful of
salt and the yolks of four eggs beaten to
gether. Chop a half pound of suet and
thoroughly mix with It a halt' pound each ot
raisins, currants and almonds. Add a tea
spoonful each of c.nnamon and nutmeg, a
third of a teaspoonful each of cloves and
mace and the whites of the four eggs stiltly
beaten. Servo with hard sauce.
Mistresses Need Training.
From the Itrooklj u Kagle.
"Schools for the training of mistresses
are .as much needed a.s schools for the
training of maids," said a woman who is
actively interested in piiilanthrophio work
and Is frequently called upon to secure
places for worthy young women in search
of employment as domestics. "Some of the
estimable women who come to ine with
tales abcut the Inefficiency of servants
nculd probably consider such speech rank
heresy on my part, but I hear both sides
of the story, and 1 do not wonder that so
many girls prefer fa'ctory and shop life to
d< roestic service. In the factory or shop
they have certain work to perform in a
certain time. Then they are perfectly free
to do as they like. In domestic service the
hours of service ara mighty elastic and the
hi urs of freedom rigidly defined, and it?
m; ny houses where the mistress thinks
herself and is thought by others to be very
charitable and broad-minded her ^rvants
lead a life of drudgery. Of course there
are homes where the mistress is a treasure
and the maids likewise, but this oft dis
cussed servant problem and the proposed
regeneration and reformation of the maid
i3 not the one-sided question so many con
sider it."
Error in School Books.
From American Medicine.
The makers and supporters of the school
text books on so-called physiology have
made many blunders In their well-meaning
attempts, but there Is none so fundamental
and so absurd as that of failing to see that
the young should be taught how to main
tain or get health Instead of how to avoid
disease. No reform or progress can amount
to anything that is built upon a negation.
No anti-movement accomplishes an end of
any value. In language two negatives are
said to be equal to an affirmative, but our
habitual speech Ignores the absurdity, and,
in morals and social life, two negatives in
collision are wholly resultless A physiol
ogy that devotes itself to pathology is ridic
ulous, and Is Itself pathologic. It is a mis
nomer at best, and beyond question is not
sanitation and hygiene adapted to the child
mind. These subjects should be treated
from the positive standpoint for the young,
and the love of health, play, physical per
fection and strength should be encouraged
and illustrated, not the avoidance of mor
bidity. Of all the outrageous things pos
sible to be Inserted In a school physiology
the Illustration of the end-products of dis
ease and sin, hobnailed liver, etc., are the
worst conceivable.
Oorffiiimger
CHRISTMAS and
GIFTS are eynoy
mous terms. A gift
of genuine
Oorflliniger
Glassware
Is certainly -highly
appropriate. Look
for the trade-mar?
label on each pieos.
Glassware