Newspaper Page Text
ftgx'cltl Correspondence of The Evf 11I11* Star. PARIS, April 10. 1901. Th? enjoyment Sunday night of "Para dise and the Peri," that delightful frag ment of Moore's "Lalla Rookh" set to music by Schumann, was partially lo? owing to the small size of the theater la which It was produced. Paris has no reg ular music hall like the St. Jamos' in Lon don. Carnegie In New York and the Chi cago Auditorium, and for lack of a better place her large concerts are held in one of tAe many theaters. This state of things has been in existence so Ions that it is now taken as a matter of course. Schu mann's work lost Intensity from its en vironment, the setting being too small for the frame; In other words, the music overpowered the building, and all the ef fort* of the able conductor, M. Chevillard, could not improve matters. Granting that the music was heard at a disadvantage, it nevertheless lacks the color and pic turesqueness which characterize Moore a poetry. , , If one feels inclined to cavil with art'.s tlc efforts the natural beauty of the IJois Just now will satisfy the most critical. This lovely avenue Is fragrant with the odor of flowers and beautified with speci mens of the eternal feminine gowned in all the pomps and vanities of charming spring modes. Though fashion's creations are nothing like as exquisite as nature's, they lead that ancient dame. Mother Earth, a pretty lively race. Certainly this season's clothes are decidedly alluring. Colors and fabitcs are so fine and varied that we have be gun to look upon the manufacturer as a species of magician who can make any weave he pleases. To meet the special need of the "fullness of things" he is pro ducing sillcs and lighter weight materials which heretofore have been rather nar row almost twice their width. A New Silk. Perfectly charming in the wide fabrics is the new silk klnu, which possesses the sub stance of pongee and the softness of crepe de chine. It Is to be found in all the fash lonaJble shades. Among the multiplicity of voiles In every weight and color there is a tartan plaid which is really newer than anything yet produced in this material. The plaid is a very small green and blue check representing the only combination of the kind so far attempted. The fact that this new voile is not cheap obviates for the summer at least any chance of Its being tio rr.uch worn to be desirable. I have seen a stunning gown of this material made with a three-tiered skirt and trimmed with little kilted frills of blue taffeta, the bodice be comingly arranged with trimmings of tho kilting. Many of the plaid and striped , frocks are made up over a silk lining of contrasting shades which when well han dled give an effect at once elusive and cliarmlng. , The vcdle ROW!?/** are trimmea with trie narrow braid, the cuffs and waistcoats often hidden under lines straight and waved of three different colors in hercules braid. For Instance, a champagne frock has a mingling of this trimming in black and white, gold and pale blue, repeated on its PARISIAN COSTUMES FOB < cuffs gllet and little flat turnover collar. A coS>ination of lemon and pale green >s I se^n but it ia rather more strilnnfr than beautiful. Some exquisite gowns whose destination is America have Just been com- | Dieted by a celebrated coutur ere. The owner is a wealthy prospective bride. For This Country. One of the creations Is a puce taffeta, and en passant let me say that this puce _a brownish mauve?to one of the favorite tints of the season. The puce taffeta of this gown was delightfully soft, and the exceptionally lustrous effect evolved by means of a tiny. Indistinct check design which covered the material. The skirt was plain and full, with little plaits on the hliis which threw Into relief the ampler proportions of the lower skirt, which rest ed on the ground all round. All the decor ative art of the gown was displayed on the trimming of the bodice Here the chic of the ensemble whs accentuated by a novel arrangement of coarse embroidery in shades of old blue, puce and willow green touched with dark purple ond gold thread. Thto combination of colors was embroid ered on coarse filet net and fashioned into a scalloped pelerine very much cut away at the throat to show an undervest of renaissance lace. The sleeves were very full at the elbow, quite in the glgot style, and cut In one with the shoulder piece, or. rather, this effect was brought about by the trimming, which continued in a band down the outside of the sleeve, forming a tlght-flttlng cuff. A draped belt of taffeta fastened with enameled buttons recalled In their tints the embroidered collar. Deep Waist Belts. Since deep waist belts are to play such an Important part In the summer ward robe a word to the home fashioner of belts as to the correct way of making them may be appreciated. Not long ago the fashionable celnture consisted of a length of ribbon passed around the waist and tied In a bow at the left side of the front or In loops and ends In the bark. This was In the days when a small waist made for l>eauty, but now It Is no longer modish to possess an hour glass waist, provided the effect be trim and neat. Booh a desirable consummation 1s wonderfully helped by the straight front ed oorset; stlU one turn to be particular that J the flt of the belt be unimpeachable. There are two ways of making these belt*. Those that are of the same height all roupd nave an interlining of French canvas and are boned at interval?. A lining of thin place silk conceals the canvas and bones. Usually there are eight bones, one each at the center, back and front and one on either side. of these bones and one at each side aeam. Swmetimfs these belts fasten at the back benenth a trio of small button-centered cockade roecttee of the belt material, and sometimes a long slide Is tne ornament used with a small clasp in front. Wooden button molds covered with velvet or embrold.ered silk are a very effective finish. When the ceinture narrows at the sides whalebones of varying length are sewed Into silk casings and neatly adjusted at the back and front of the belt. Over this firm foundation is then stretched the bias outer material. Odd Combinations. Very novel is the combination of Bulga rian embroidery and leather in the summer belts. A pretty effect is obtained by hav ing the binding of the beit of black kid, the inner edge scalloped. The center is of linen worked in bright colors. This belt fastens In front with two narrow kid straps and gun metal buttons. Kid of all colors is also used for the edges of satin crushed belts. With the tailor coat or costume Parisians are wearing a cravat of cerise or brilliant green appear. * beneath an immaculate turnover linen coHar. Red shoes have a great vogue. Though decidedly bad form except for out of town wear, they are very becomings to a small foot. A red leather belt and cravat should be worn with these shoes. Another summery accessory is a lace stole having at the back a shawl point, the ends of which are adorned with either a large single rose or with little clusters of colored flowers. A quaint arrangement to be worn with the fichu is a handsome min iature hung around the throat on a half inch velvet ribbon tied in a few loops nl most in front, the ends loosely caught down into the waist belt. The geisha adorn ment of rose worn In the hair is a fad of the moment, the roses often forming a sort of filet. Thin White Gowns. The sheer frocks of summer will be fasci natingly lovely, and thin white toiles and voiles, either printed with flowers or per fectly plain, over a color will be popular. The toiles are of the new silky make that has little of the original cotton about it. The favorite flower designs are bunches of mauve and violet anemones with deep pur ple centers and Japanese peach blossoms In three shades of pink harmoniously blended. Dresses in this material are made over a silk foundation, with rows of transparent lace. Insertions above a deep, gathered flounce, the bodice formed of alternate bands of lace and gathering. It is a comfortable prediction that dark muslins will be fashionable for promenade wear this summer, and the newest models have no trimming on the skirt except two or threa flounces. A dark blue muslin scat tered with a rose pattern has the skirt flounces headed with a ruching of pink taf feta, which also trims the draped flchu around the shoulders. The early summer frock for the Bois promises to be a coarse canvas very like linen with a woven pattern. Coarse linen embroideries will trim some of these dresses, but the latest idea Is to use Swiss embroidery. These frocks will be simple to a degree, made with high collars, bolero bodice and full, kilted skirts that clear the ground. Clinging Styles Soon. Now that femininity for better or for worse has arrayed itself In the styles of 1830, an authoritative voice is heard pro claiming that the directoire vogues are merely a question of time, and the time lim it seems to be the early fall. Recalling the fashions of that era, it seems a little diffi cult to reconcile the possibilities of a period which brought the "climax of the clinging" with the present prevailing width. The JHILD, MAID AND MATBON. blending of opposites is an art nowadays, and no doubt we will accept with the great est ease the return of the large, picturesque revers and basqued coats cut away to dis play vests of brocade Invariably finished by a cravat of lace. This change will be grad ual. but what tries the soul Is to find a smart bolt of fashion dropped from a clear sky In a revival of square shoulders made even more aggressive with a stiffening built under the sleeve. This innovation Is particularly discourag ing just when we are drooping and dropping our shoulder effects to the vanishing point. I I suppose we shall square up and recover. CATHERINE TALBOT. Paradise to Continue En Vogue. rrom the Millinery Trade Ueview. The arrival of drooping arrangements has brought paradise tails to the fore again. Lewis Is among those who arc particu larly partial to them. One of his broad brimmed block hats, made of hair lace, is trimmed with a paradise tail shaded from white to a bright sky blue. This is fasten ed in front by a Jet ornament in the form of a diadem, which passes through the shape. Caroline Reboux, who generally shows something that no one else has, is using drooping cock's feathers. A very dashing hat in pale champagne-colored straw, with the brim rolled once and caught back to the middle of the crown, has a plume of eight brown cock's feathers in closed in the hollow so formed, their tips drooping down behind the ear. On the r-.ll of the brim is placed a large rosette of satin ribbon, with cabochon in the center. Summer Plumage. From the Millinery Trade Eerie*. Ostrich is also more seen than It was a few weeks back. So far, however, prefer ence is given to flat feathers and poufs of feathers. They are considered particularly applicable to black hats. A picture hat in black lace has a pouf of three feathers pastel blue, pink and mauve?In front, and underneath t'he upturned brim, three rosettea of satin of the three colors. The Directoire hats mentioned above, made to aoeonvpany the dresses in that style, are almost always trimmed with plumes of feathera placed at the side of the high crown. TATTOOING REVIVED1 War in the Far East Has Started the Fad. DESIGNS IN FAVOE SAID THAT ROYALTY HAS SET THE FASHION. Japanese Pictures Liked Beet, but Originality Makes a Showing. Written for The Erening Star. The tattooing craze has broken out afresh among society people all over Europe and this country as result of war In far east, and the curious fashion Is spreading rapid ly, representatives of European royalty and the leaders In American social circles being among the first to give impetus to the fad in being punctured for pictures by the knights of the needle and ink. who now have their hands full working out Japanese designs, which appear to find special favor among the devotees of the "art." A fashionable Japanese tattoolst In the west end of London has his hands quite full at present, and charges fancy prices for his works of art. The skin artists, how ever, as a rule, charge about a dollar for a small butterfly or flower of very simple de sign. but as much as $:?0 to $50 for anything in the way of a really elaborate snake or dragon. A very favorite subject with men is a pretty littie Japanese girl figure. The fash itinabie artist naturally dots not use the ol(l style needle, which did good work for sailors and navvies. The new apparatus is nearly always electric, and the colors are varied and in no wiy injurious. The latest form of "beauty doctoring" is that of tat tooing a pretty fresh complexion on to a withered and yellow skin, and the healthy look imparted by the needle is absolutely natural. The craze is rapidly spreading, and no one is anybody nowadays who cannot show some example of needle and ink work. The Prince of Wales lias a most extra ordinary design tattooed on his arm. It takes the form of a fearful looking dragon, with open jaws bristling with rows of gigantic teeth, and a row of spiked horns down the middle of its back. The dragon is represented as having four legs, on the ?r.d of each of which are three talons. It is also provided with feelers, after the style of an octopus, and altogether is a terrible look ins monster. A Flying Dragon. Prince George of Greece has displayed a somewhat similar taste to the English heir apparent by also having the picture of a dragon, tattooed on his arm. It differs, I however, from the Prince of Wales' design, inasmuch as it represents a flying dragon with outspread wings and but two legs. The head of the reptile Is particularly fierce looking. Its Jaws being wide open and showing a set of formidable teeth. Very peculiar is the design tattooed on the forearm of Prince Francis of Teck. It consists of an ugly-looking toad, near the mouth of which Is a small beetle, appar ently within an ace of being swallowed by the toad. The Grand Duke Alexis of Russia Is most elaborately tattooed on different parts of his body, likewise the Grand Duke Con stantine, King Oscar of Sweden, Prince and Princess Waldemar of Denmark, and Queen Olga of Greece have also been adorned with flesh pictures Among other personages might be mentioned Lady Randolph Churchill, the Duke of Newcastle, and Sir Edmund Lechmere. all of whom have sub mitted to the tattioer's needle. The designs favored by lords and ladles of England are very numerous and varied. Birds, butterflies and portraits are popular among society ladies, probably on account of the fact that so many beautiful colors can be introduced into them. Sporting de signs predominate with gentlemen, who of ten have the portrait of their favorite horse or dog tattooed on tlieir arms. Regimental badges and royal arms, too, are very prev alent, while not a few are partial to ser pents and dragons. Peculiar Tastes. Alfred South of Cockspur street, London, who may be described as the pioneer of the tattooing art in England, has during his career operated on upward of 15 000 persons, including about i?00 English wo men, the designs in a great number of cases being of a most peculiar description. Perhaps the most striking of all are rep resentations of two celebrated paintings. "The Crucifixion" and "Ecce Homo." One woman has depicted on her skin a picture representing a flight of birds. Portraits of husbands and lovers are popular with women, and there are several instances in which women have been tattooed with their husband's regimental crest. Mono grams, initials and family quarterings abound. There are some instances where women have had the Inscriptions on their wed ding rings tattooed on their fingers be neath the ring. Etchings of bracelets in yellow encircle the arms of many. Languages, too', have their due share of attention. Many women have written on their arms words belonging to various tongues?Assyrian, Chinese, Arabic. Re ligious subjects are very popular, especially with Roman Catholics. The women of the smart set who like to keep pace with the times may new be adorned with illustrations of motor cars. Another device which finds favor at pres ent is that of a figure of Cupid disap pearing into the recesses of a pewter pot, having cast aside his bow and quiver. This picture, which has been tattooed on the skin of many women, is entitled "Love Gone to Pot." The Domestic Craze. It is surprising the number of young people of the fashionable Bet of New York, Chicago, Philadelphia and other large American cities who have been tattooed. Some of them are as variously decorated as the saltiest old seaman, and those who have escaped the netdle thus far are en viously awaiting an opportunity to join the ranks of the "skin picture?," as the tat tooed fashionable are called. The designs are not unlike those found on the arms of society dames, such as butterflies, eagles, stars, hearts entwined and bleeding hearts. Contrary to the general impression, there is no cruelty connected with the art of tat tooing by the electric process; in fact,'it feels just like scratching your hand, and j does not even draw blood. It is contended I by professors of the art that If the tattoo j lng is done in an artistic manner, it Is a j positive decoration. Some men in New York, Boston and Chicago have been known to strut about proud as a turkey with two tails, even in the winter season. Just to ex hibit the work done by the tattooing artist. Ancient and Esteemed. Tattooing is an ancient and honorable practice. It goes back to the wooden age? before the folks that lived then knew what metal was. They went to war with axes made from wood. In order to harden the wood they charred it slightly with lire. They whacked each other with a good deal of skill and some of the charcoal came off in the wound. When it healed a blue streak was left. Warriors were known from the number of such streaks that their faces showed. Presently they found out how to make streaks in times of peace. From that it was but a step to crude designs, and in the centuries that followed tattooing has developed. The Japanese are particularly r lept In handling the tattooing needle, wor ,ng out very elaborate designs, the tools they use being very neat and well adapted for the work. An electric tattooing machine has been Invented which accomplishes the work much quicker and neater than the needle used In the old method. It Is tbe practice of a "professor" who receives a patient to request the latter to bare his or her arm. and then the opera tion begins. The "professor" washes the skin with antiseptic and shaves away the hairs. Rubbing a little cocaine Into the skin, he next proceeds to stencil the desired design. A Sapid Process. He then turns the current into an electric i oirtttn* machine, and, at the rate -of a thousand pundtxirea .* minute, traces the outline. General?, tf* patient winoes sev eral times, but finally become* used to tha pricking sensation and makes no further complaint. Thara ltr little or no aim of blood during the tlnie the akin la being punctured. <f< The designs tre finished with a shading machine operated by electricity. Although eight needle* go Into; the patient's arm at each throb of tUe ourfent, It does not hurt as muoh aa the work done by the outline maohine with ttssingte point of steel. After a little more coTbr has been worked into the holes left by tirtf shading machine the "pro fessor," as a Me. includes his artistic operation by binding t? the arm and letting nature have full, away" In healing the punc tures made. n. 5s 1 dressmaking aids. Dress Forma of Several Kinds. Busy women and lazy women who give that time-honored excuse for dowdlness? lack of time to devote to the dressmaker? can no longer avail themselves of this plea. With all the new devices for fitting and building gowns, women no longer need be martyrs to the caprices of a modiste. With the introduction of these various in ventions It has become more the fad for women to do a fcreat deal of their own dressmaking. This is not such a formi dable task if the sewing room is well equipped with a wire adjustable frame and a pneumatic dress form. The latter apparatus consists of a Ilnli.g' made of thin rubber, cut and fitted bv a good tailor, and put together so that It is air tight. When the home dressmaker wishes to fit her srown she blows up her pneumatic rubber form through the tiny orifice at the base aVid then screws a cap over it so It will retain the required shape as tong as necessary. A stiff collar is pro vided for the neck, which can also be ad justed to any size. After the form is partially blown up the honr.e dressmaker fastens her lining over it and Increases the volume of air until the form completely fills the lining. She can then make as many experiments as she likes without changing her own gown or enduring the fatigue of standing in one position any length of time. Another simple device Is a form made out of a perfect-fitting dress lining. This is symmetrically stuffed with cotton or curled hair, and then the openings at the neck and sleeves and base are closed to prevent the filling from dropping out. Dishes in Which Onions Figure. Onions au gratin?Boil three or four on ions for one hour in two quarts of salted water. Pour off the water and then cut up the onions. Put them In a baking dish and pour over them half a pint of cream sauce and half a cup of grated bread crumbs dot ted with bits of butter. Place in a quick oven and bake for twenty minutes. Escaloped onions?Boil the onions nntil tender in salted water to which lias been added a little milk. Drain and pot the onions in a baking dish with alternate lay ers of bread crumbs, salt, pepper and a dash of powdered sage Dot each layer of bread crumbs with pieces of butter. Pour over the whole a half cup of milk. Cover the top with bread crumbs and small pieces of butter. Bake it a light brown and serve hot. Buttered Spanish onions?Peel large Span ish onions carefully so as to remove only the outer skin. With a sharp knife cut oft the top; make a.hole In the middle of each onion and fill with the following stuffing: Cat into squares some veal kidney and good bacon. Chop separately a little pars ley and suet and mix All together, adding ?alt and-pepper to taste. When the onions are filled the tops are replaced and secured with a string. Place them in a buttered pan and bake slowly. Basting with melted butter. W hen perfectly done remove the string and serve on thick slices of toast. Fried apples and onions?Use twice as many rather sour apples as onions. Slice the apples without paring them, and also slice the onions fine, a ad fry them togetner in butter, being careful to keep the pan covered to hold the steam, which will pre WhlI? cooking sprinkle slightly with sugar to give added flavor. Spring Fashions. Very fine soft cloths, varies and woolens, which drape and fail well and adapt them selves to the full-skirted styles, are preva lent materials, but as the season advances the new soft taffetas are gaining a footing in feminine hearts. Tiny checks in laven der and white, pink and white and so on. such as were worn forty or fifty years ago, will be quite the rage, and others with old world delicate colorings for background show modest little rosebuds or single flow ers as pattern. All these old-fashioned col ors, recalling some quaint garden in which laiender and cherry pie perfumed the air together with the cabbage rose, whose soft petals of the true vieux rose shade were sweeter far than those of its modern suc cessors, will be worn thrown up In relief here and there by petunia, larkspur Mue and green, and as a restful background the whole gamut of taupe shades from dark ?sryr ??" - The Scents of Dukani. A novel game has been introduced called "the scents of dukani." The scents, thirty In number, are Inclosed each In a little bag and suspended from a rope. A lady chooses a partner, and to gether they go and "nose" the bags, one after the other, and write down what they suppose to be Its scent. The pair who suc ceed In making the most correct list are the winners. That there Is a good variety of odors Is easily seen from the list appended: Cloves, cinnamon, ginger, nutmeg, verbena, eu calyptus, onion, brown soap, Bombay duck, aloes, eau de cologne, musk, coffee, tea! lavender, camphor, creosote, lemon, pepper mint, whisky, brandy, ammonia, benzine, turpentine, mustard, licorice. aniseed, cheese, carrot and curry powder. The New Lace Waists. Under the new short boleros are worn very fine specimens of the batiste shirt with valenclennes lace and Insertions or quaint muslin embroideries. They are real ly charming and show the revival of hand stitchery. Beautiful laces lined with chiffon worn over satin slips as well as painted gauzea and delicate chiffons form admirable after noon blouses and are important factors now In the wardrobe on account of the after noon bridge parties. "Something New." Certain members of the fashionable world, always In search^f that "something new," which Inevitably, of course, resolves Itself Into something old renewed, have grown tired of even the most Artistic kind of elec tric lighting for1 their dinner tables and have brought forth from the plate chest those huge candelabra which have not seen the light for mafty a day. Assuredly the soft mellow glow shed by wax candles has never been surpassed where the becoming element Is conceened, and the old silver candelabra with Hi many bleamingbranches gives grace to any dinrter table. Of course for some time many fortunate owners of these pieces of sHYer i^tve had them fitted t^bte eleCtrlC ll8htS for use on the dinner . u , Increasing Demand lor Lace in Mil 'jiner^. From the Millinery Trade Review. The demand for lace and different sorts of tulles and nets Is very large and runs for the most part in tinted varieties. All kinds of lace, but principally Alencon. Mech lin and Brussels, are provided In most fash ionable colors, both light and dark. These are usually dipped laces; few are originally woven in color. One of the latest additions to the list -s colored crochet wheels which make up very pretty transparent' shapes with a bordering of straw braids around the edge. Besides plain tulle for making drawn gathered shapes, there is a consid erable demand for sprigged and spotted net. In some of these the spots are woven In the fabrics, and others have chenille vel vet or gold spots or sequins put on by hand Small sequins stamped out in the shape of sprigs are used. Sequins are also laid In clusters to form cabochons. THE QUEST OF BEAUTY The Reasons Why a Japanese Girl Has Strong Muscles. HEK EVEBY-DAY LIFE PHYSICAL CULTUB.E, BUT NOT SO CALLED. The Exercises Which Build Up Her Body and Give Her Health? ?Recipes. Written for The Evening Star by {Catherine Morton. Every day of the year that the little Japa nese girl lives she is training her muscles. Her dancing lessons are only a. part of this training. For some reason the Japanese race has never been tall. Students differ as to the reason of this. Some ascribe it to diet, some to climate, and nowadays we are hear ing that It is because of sitting on the floor. Whatever be the true reason, it has stunted physical development in only that one way. Whatever forces have combined to make dolls of the Japanese have not narrowed their shoulders or lessened their agility. The Japanese maiden is a sturdy little athlete. "When I was visiting Nagasaki with a friend," said a traveler the other day, "we happened to fall into a frolic with two merry little rr.nider.s who were bewitching in the gayest of flowered kimunas. They were as playful and as harmless and as rough as two fat Newfoundland puppies. In the good-tempered tussle they had us worsted so soon that we had to flee to save our vani ty. My companion's hair was disgracefully mussed, my necktie was awry and our col lars were limp. It was all absurd and un dignified. but one could no more demand dignity of such simpl*. primitive little girls as these than of a pair of kittens. "What I learned from the incident was that the Japr?nf>s<i girl is strong, quick and merry. I don't know of three qualities that promise more for her own advancement and that of future generations." So. all unconsciously, little Miss Japan is doing her share toward building up a race of strong people?the kind that wear sound minds in sound bodies. The physical culture which comes to her casually in her every-day life gives her a rounded fig ure, graceful motions, bright eyes and a clear skin. Her happy and playful dis position wards off wrinkles and a drooping mouth. She Needs No Stays. One thing that gives strength to the lit tle trunk is her manner of sitting. It may be what prevents her towering to a Gib son height, but it gives her backbone a sureness that we may well envy. "I am so miserable without my corset," many an American girl says. "I need It so for a support. When I take it off I feel as if my spine were going to collapse. I am entirely dependent on it." Whoever heard Miss Japan say a thing like this? She does not know the meaning of a corset. Furthermore, she has not even a chair back for support. Now. I am not a dress reformer and I do not condemn all corsets. I have a femi nine liking for the shapeliness which a well-fitted corset gives to the smart spring suit of tailored cheviot. But if I had a monopoly on all the corsets In the world I would never let a woman have one until she ceased to want It. I would hold it dandling above her as a reward and say. "When your spine holds Itself up Inde pendently, when you learn to be strong: and erect and elastic without its aid. when you are no more drooping and weary without it than with it?then you may have the daintiest little affair, all adorned with ribbons and lace and rosebuds, from my Santa Glaus pack." She Felt a Prisoner. The Japanese girl educates her spine with never a reward except virtue's own. Prob ably she would see no charm In even the prettiest of Filtnch corsets. I knew a lit tle Japanese woman who came to this coun try and adopted our style of dress. She owned that for weeks she shed tears Into one of our strange cloth handkerchiefs every morning when the problem of dress ing confronted her. The red tape of it all was maddening and the corset made her feel like a prisoner. For the woman who finds herself depend ent upon the support of stays there is no better training than fifteen minutes of Jap anese sitting every day. Divide the fifteen minutes into as many parts as necessary It the whole dose proves too hard a one. Later on you may try It for ten minutes three times a day. Lay a cushion on the floor. There is no need of callousing the knees. Now stand erect, facing the cushion. Raise the skirt slightly in front, to avoid straining It. Next kneel, bringing the knees well forward on the cushion and keeping the body perfectly erect from the knees up. Next, lower the body to a sitting posture, still keeping the body erect from the hips up. Tou will flnd that you are sitting upon your heels, so to speak. Not only does the spine learn erect ness from this position, but there is a splendid tugging vpon the leg muscles. Eows to the Ground. While very young the little girl is taught to bow. The bow In Japan means no slight tilting of the head such as we meet nowa days, nor even a demure courtesy such .is our great-grandmothers dropped: It is a bow so deep that it brings the little lady's very forehead to the floor. She practices It dally, before the shrine where she wor ships, before guests and elders and in her pretty dance. The grace of it bears wit ness to the suppleness of all her muscles. To perform the bow, bring yourself to the sitting posture described above. Now ex tend the arms and hands in front, palms down. Bend forward until the palms lie flat upon the floor, arms still extended straight. Bring the forehead to the floor. Hold this position for several seconds, hut not long enough to feel any discomfort in the head. Rise to the erect standing posi tion, and repeat the movement. You may give yourself the commands in this wise: "Stand, knees, hips, palms, forehead." Prac tice with the cushion at first, gradually bringing yourself to the point of doing without it. Repeat until every joint in the body feels "oiled." It is an excellent exer cise to limber the body when stiffness is setting in from a cold, a cramped position, or slight attack of rheumatism. Calls It "Flying." With arms outspread to represent wings, the little Japanese girl plays a game which she calls "flying." Extending the arms at the side as far as they will reach, she brings her body to a squatting position, then bobs vigorously up and down with a flapping motion of the arms. The object of the game is to find who can bob the great est number of times before the umpire cries "The nest is reached." This means that the leg muscles must work fast and hard. The little players are tingling from head to foot with the exer cise when the game is over. The girls, while frolicking by themselves, often indulge in the boys' sports. A favor ite form of racing among the Japanese (one that is always in evidence at such contests as constitute a field day with us, is run n:ng while holding an egg balanced upon a spcon. It is great fun to watch a crowd of the little girls out In some secluded field. raring away for dear life, their bright kl mcnas fluttering about the ankles, their lo?K sleeves floating out behind like wings and ttielr funny little top-bnots bobbing <19 they run. Jumping Is another feat in whl-ii the little girl indulges when her brother Is far out of the way. It would not be ./onsistent with her modesty to let him s ,e any such daring performance. One if the party climbs ir.to a tree, crawls f ,.r out on a limb and holds a tempting plum or cherry Just out of reach of her companions below They juipp for it, and the iruit is held higher and higher as the jumping progresses. Knows How to Climb. The Japanese boy has come to be known as a wonderful climber. His work as a sailor shows this In California, wher* hundreds of th**?? hoys are employed in domestic service, thoy are the only window washers ^ anted. They swing themselves out dariagly from the highest windows, scale narrow ledges, and somehow or other they contrive to keep their balance in the dizzk'Ft spots. This cat-like ability Is not conflned to the Japanese boy, all hough his sister Is much hampered by her modesty and her kimona. However, turn her loose where no man can see, and she will climb a tree like a cat, going to the highest limbs that will bear her weight. All t+iis vigorous life means that the cir culation of the blood is kept up. and the wholesome perspiration excited. The aver age Japanese girl knows nothing of trie value of these two things. She does not realize that they mean far more to her beauty than do the stains which she ap plies to her iips. cheeks and eyebrows. She owes the clearness of her complexion to the great amount of exercise that she tak^s. Nothing cleanses the pores of the skin as perspiration does. Nothing brightens all the coloring, even that of the hair, as a brisk circulation does. The little lady of the islands, unwittingly, has solved a big pi oblem. Useful Suggestions. A moth and freckle bleach is made of 12 ounces rosewater. 4 ounces alcohol,2 ounces glycerine, 12 grains corrosive sublimate. You must decide for yourself as to the us? of so powerful a remedy. It Is a poison and must never touch eyes or lips. It re moves the outer skin with the brown spots and will do so very rapidly unless diluted. I strongly advise the dilution?make It weak enough to cause only a slight smarting. l>o not use it at all unless your skin is In a wholesome condition. Bathe the oily skin with a mixture of 1 quart camphor water, 1 our.ee glycerine, V2 ounce pulverized borax. Strengthen the growth of the eyebrows by the following ointment: Two ounces red vaseline, ha ounce tincture cantharldes. 13 drops oil rosemary, 15 drops oil lavender. They will appear darker as they thicKun and this is better than staining them. A lotion for blackheads consists of 2 ounces pure brandy. 1 ounce cologne, Vi ounce liquor of potussa. Give the face a thorough bath of warm water and soap at night, then apply the lotion. Use castile soap and the complexion brush for enlarged pores. A good cold cream Is made by melting together in a jar 1 pint sweet oil, 2 ounces white wax, % ounce spermaceti. Add your favorite scent. Freckles may be removed by a mixture of 1 pint rosewater, 1 ounce alum, 1 ounce lemon juice. Singeing the hair is better than clipping tt. Have it dorve by an experienced person. Massage the scalp every night with a tonio made of 1 ounce cologne water, 1 ounce glycerine of borax. 1 ounce vinegar can tharldes and enough distilled water to bring the whole to 6 ounces. Do not use peroxide of hydrogen until you have tried loosening your hair and sit ting where the sun strikes it as many hours a day as possible. Shampoo weekly with green soap, followed by water In which a teaspoonful Naf borax Is dissolved. Rinse la pure water and lemon juice.