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Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, April 30, 1904, Image 22

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ftgx'cltl Correspondence of The Evf 11I11* Star.
PARIS, April 10. 1901.
Th? enjoyment Sunday night of "Para
dise and the Peri," that delightful frag
ment of Moore's "Lalla Rookh" set to
music by Schumann, was partially lo?
owing to the small size of the theater la
which It was produced. Paris has no reg
ular music hall like the St. Jamos' in Lon
don. Carnegie In New York and the Chi
cago Auditorium, and for lack of a better
place her large concerts are held in one
of tAe many theaters. This state of things
has been in existence so Ions that it is
now taken as a matter of course. Schu
mann's work lost Intensity from its en
vironment, the setting being too small
for the frame; In other words, the music
overpowered the building, and all the ef
fort* of the able conductor, M. Chevillard,
could not improve matters. Granting that
the music was heard at a disadvantage,
it nevertheless lacks the color and pic
turesqueness which characterize Moore a
poetry. , ,
If one feels inclined to cavil with art'.s
tlc efforts the natural beauty of the IJois
Just now will satisfy the most critical.
This lovely avenue Is fragrant with the
odor of flowers and beautified with speci
mens of the eternal feminine gowned in all
the pomps and vanities of charming spring
Though fashion's creations are nothing
like as exquisite as nature's, they lead
that ancient dame. Mother Earth, a pretty
lively race. Certainly this season's clothes
are decidedly alluring. Colors and fabitcs
are so fine and varied that we have be
gun to look upon the manufacturer as a
species of magician who can make any
weave he pleases. To meet the special
need of the "fullness of things" he is pro
ducing sillcs and lighter weight materials
which heretofore have been rather nar
row almost twice their width.
A New Silk.
Perfectly charming in the wide fabrics is
the new silk klnu, which possesses the sub
stance of pongee and the softness of crepe
de chine. It Is to be found in all the fash
lonaJble shades. Among the multiplicity of
voiles In every weight and color there is a
tartan plaid which is really newer than
anything yet produced in this material.
The plaid is a very small green and blue
check representing the only combination of
the kind so far attempted. The fact that
this new voile is not cheap obviates for the
summer at least any chance of Its being tio
rr.uch worn to be desirable. I have seen a
stunning gown of this material made with
a three-tiered skirt and trimmed with little
kilted frills of blue taffeta, the bodice be
comingly arranged with trimmings of tho
kilting. Many of the plaid and striped ,
frocks are made up over a silk lining of
contrasting shades which when well han
dled give an effect at once elusive and
cliarmlng. ,
The vcdle ROW!?/** are trimmea with trie
narrow braid, the cuffs and waistcoats
often hidden under lines straight and waved
of three different colors in hercules braid.
For Instance, a champagne frock has a
mingling of this trimming in black and
white, gold and pale blue, repeated on its
cuffs gllet and little flat turnover collar. A
coS>ination of lemon and pale green >s I
se^n but it ia rather more strilnnfr than
beautiful. Some exquisite gowns whose
destination is America have Just been com- |
Dieted by a celebrated coutur ere. The
owner is a wealthy prospective bride.
For This Country.
One of the creations Is a puce taffeta,
and en passant let me say that this puce
_a brownish mauve?to one of the favorite
tints of the season. The puce taffeta of
this gown was delightfully soft, and the
exceptionally lustrous effect evolved by
means of a tiny. Indistinct check design
which covered the material. The skirt was
plain and full, with little plaits on the
hliis which threw Into relief the ampler
proportions of the lower skirt, which rest
ed on the ground all round. All the decor
ative art of the gown was displayed on the
trimming of the bodice Here the chic of
the ensemble whs accentuated by a novel
arrangement of coarse embroidery in
shades of old blue, puce and willow green
touched with dark purple ond gold thread.
Thto combination of colors was embroid
ered on coarse filet net and fashioned into
a scalloped pelerine very much cut away
at the throat to show an undervest of
renaissance lace. The sleeves were very
full at the elbow, quite in the glgot style,
and cut In one with the shoulder piece, or.
rather, this effect was brought about by
the trimming, which continued in a band
down the outside of the sleeve, forming a
tlght-flttlng cuff. A draped belt of taffeta
fastened with enameled buttons recalled In
their tints the embroidered collar.
Deep Waist Belts.
Since deep waist belts are to play such
an Important part In the summer ward
robe a word to the home fashioner of
belts as to the correct way of making
them may be appreciated.
Not long ago the fashionable celnture
consisted of a length of ribbon passed
around the waist and tied In a bow at the
left side of the front or In loops and ends
In the bark. This was In the days when
a small waist made for l>eauty, but now It
Is no longer modish to possess an hour
glass waist, provided the effect be trim
and neat. Booh a desirable consummation
1s wonderfully helped by the straight front
ed oorset; stlU one turn to be particular that
J the flt of the belt be unimpeachable. There
are two ways of making these belt*. Those
that are of the same height all roupd
nave an interlining of French canvas and
are boned at interval?. A lining of thin
place silk conceals the canvas and bones.
Usually there are eight bones, one each
at the center, back and front and one on
either side. of these bones and one at
each side aeam. Swmetimfs these belts
fasten at the back benenth a trio of small
button-centered cockade roecttee of the belt
material, and sometimes a long slide Is tne
ornament used with a small clasp in front.
Wooden button molds covered with velvet
or embrold.ered silk are a very effective
finish. When the ceinture narrows at the
sides whalebones of varying length are
sewed Into silk casings and neatly adjusted
at the back and front of the belt. Over
this firm foundation is then stretched the
bias outer material.
Odd Combinations.
Very novel is the combination of Bulga
rian embroidery and leather in the summer
belts. A pretty effect is obtained by hav
ing the binding of the beit of black kid, the
inner edge scalloped. The center is of linen
worked in bright colors. This belt fastens
In front with two narrow kid straps and
gun metal buttons. Kid of all colors is also
used for the edges of satin crushed belts.
With the tailor coat or costume Parisians
are wearing a cravat of cerise or brilliant
green appear. * beneath an immaculate
turnover linen coHar. Red shoes have a
great vogue. Though decidedly bad form
except for out of town wear, they are very
becomings to a small foot. A red leather
belt and cravat should be worn with these
shoes. Another summery accessory is a lace
stole having at the back a shawl point,
the ends of which are adorned with either
a large single rose or with little clusters of
colored flowers. A quaint arrangement to
be worn with the fichu is a handsome min
iature hung around the throat on a half
inch velvet ribbon tied in a few loops nl
most in front, the ends loosely caught
down into the waist belt. The geisha adorn
ment of rose worn In the hair is a fad of
the moment, the roses often forming a sort
of filet.
Thin White Gowns.
The sheer frocks of summer will be fasci
natingly lovely, and thin white toiles and
voiles, either printed with flowers or per
fectly plain, over a color will be popular.
The toiles are of the new silky make that
has little of the original cotton about it. The
favorite flower designs are bunches of
mauve and violet anemones with deep pur
ple centers and Japanese peach blossoms In
three shades of pink harmoniously blended.
Dresses in this material are made over a
silk foundation, with rows of transparent
lace. Insertions above a deep, gathered
flounce, the bodice formed of alternate
bands of lace and gathering.
It is a comfortable prediction that dark
muslins will be fashionable for promenade
wear this summer, and the newest models
have no trimming on the skirt except two or
threa flounces. A dark blue muslin scat
tered with a rose pattern has the skirt
flounces headed with a ruching of pink taf
feta, which also trims the draped flchu
around the shoulders.
The early summer frock for the Bois
promises to be a coarse canvas very like
linen with a woven pattern. Coarse linen
embroideries will trim some of these
dresses, but the latest idea Is to use Swiss
embroidery. These frocks will be simple to
a degree, made with high collars, bolero
bodice and full, kilted skirts that clear the
Clinging Styles Soon.
Now that femininity for better or for
worse has arrayed itself In the styles of
1830, an authoritative voice is heard pro
claiming that the directoire vogues are
merely a question of time, and the time lim
it seems to be the early fall. Recalling the
fashions of that era, it seems a little diffi
cult to reconcile the possibilities of a period
which brought the "climax of the clinging"
with the present prevailing width. The
blending of opposites is an art nowadays,
and no doubt we will accept with the great
est ease the return of the large, picturesque
revers and basqued coats cut away to dis
play vests of brocade Invariably finished by
a cravat of lace. This change will be grad
ual. but what tries the soul Is to find a
smart bolt of fashion dropped from a clear
sky In a revival of square shoulders made
even more aggressive with a stiffening built
under the sleeve.
This innovation Is particularly discourag
ing just when we are drooping and dropping
our shoulder effects to the vanishing point.
I I suppose we shall square up and recover.
Paradise to Continue En Vogue.
rrom the Millinery Trade Ueview.
The arrival of drooping arrangements has
brought paradise tails to the fore again.
Lewis Is among those who arc particu
larly partial to them. One of his broad
brimmed block hats, made of hair lace, is
trimmed with a paradise tail shaded from
white to a bright sky blue. This is fasten
ed in front by a Jet ornament in the form
of a diadem, which passes through the
shape. Caroline Reboux, who generally
shows something that no one else has, is
using drooping cock's feathers. A very
dashing hat in pale champagne-colored
straw, with the brim rolled once and caught
back to the middle of the crown, has a
plume of eight brown cock's feathers in
closed in the hollow so formed, their tips
drooping down behind the ear. On the r-.ll
of the brim is placed a large rosette of satin
ribbon, with cabochon in the center.
Summer Plumage.
From the Millinery Trade Eerie*.
Ostrich is also more seen than It was a
few weeks back. So far, however, prefer
ence is given to flat feathers and poufs of
feathers. They are considered particularly
applicable to black hats. A picture hat in
black lace has a pouf of three feathers
pastel blue, pink and mauve?In front, and
underneath t'he upturned brim, three
rosettea of satin of the three colors. The
Directoire hats mentioned above, made to
aoeonvpany the dresses in that style, are
almost always trimmed with plumes of
feathera placed at the side of the high
War in the Far East Has
Started the Fad.
Japanese Pictures Liked Beet, but
Originality Makes a
Written for The Erening Star.
The tattooing craze has broken out afresh
among society people all over Europe and
this country as result of war In far east,
and the curious fashion Is spreading rapid
ly, representatives of European royalty and
the leaders In American social circles being
among the first to give impetus to the fad
in being punctured for pictures by the
knights of the needle and ink. who now
have their hands full working out Japanese
designs, which appear to find special favor
among the devotees of the "art."
A fashionable Japanese tattoolst In the
west end of London has his hands quite full
at present, and charges fancy prices for
his works of art. The skin artists, how
ever, as a rule, charge about a dollar for a
small butterfly or flower of very simple de
sign. but as much as $:?0 to $50 for anything
in the way of a really elaborate snake or
A very favorite subject with men is a
pretty littie Japanese girl figure. The fash
itinabie artist naturally dots not use the
ol(l style needle, which did good work for
sailors and navvies. The new apparatus is
nearly always electric, and the colors are
varied and in no wiy injurious. The latest
form of "beauty doctoring" is that of tat
tooing a pretty fresh complexion on to a
withered and yellow skin, and the healthy
look imparted by the needle is absolutely
The craze is rapidly spreading, and no
one is anybody nowadays who cannot show
some example of needle and ink work.
The Prince of Wales lias a most extra
ordinary design tattooed on his arm. It
takes the form of a fearful looking dragon,
with open jaws bristling with rows of
gigantic teeth, and a row of spiked horns
down the middle of its back. The dragon is
represented as having four legs, on the ?r.d
of each of which are three talons. It is
also provided with feelers, after the style of
an octopus, and altogether is a terrible look
ins monster.
A Flying Dragon.
Prince George of Greece has displayed a
somewhat similar taste to the English heir
apparent by also having the picture of a
dragon, tattooed on his arm. It differs,
I however, from the Prince of Wales' design,
inasmuch as it represents a flying dragon
with outspread wings and but two legs.
The head of the reptile Is particularly fierce
looking. Its Jaws being wide open and
showing a set of formidable teeth.
Very peculiar is the design tattooed on
the forearm of Prince Francis of Teck. It
consists of an ugly-looking toad, near the
mouth of which Is a small beetle, appar
ently within an ace of being swallowed by
the toad.
The Grand Duke Alexis of Russia Is most
elaborately tattooed on different parts of
his body, likewise the Grand Duke Con
stantine, King Oscar of Sweden, Prince and
Princess Waldemar of Denmark, and Queen
Olga of Greece have also been adorned with
flesh pictures Among other personages
might be mentioned Lady Randolph
Churchill, the Duke of Newcastle, and Sir
Edmund Lechmere. all of whom have sub
mitted to the tattioer's needle.
The designs favored by lords and ladles
of England are very numerous and varied.
Birds, butterflies and portraits are popular
among society ladies, probably on account
of the fact that so many beautiful colors
can be introduced into them. Sporting de
signs predominate with gentlemen, who of
ten have the portrait of their favorite horse
or dog tattooed on tlieir arms. Regimental
badges and royal arms, too, are very prev
alent, while not a few are partial to ser
pents and dragons.
Peculiar Tastes.
Alfred South of Cockspur street, London,
who may be described as the pioneer of
the tattooing art in England, has during
his career operated on upward of 15 000
persons, including about i?00 English wo
men, the designs in a great number of
cases being of a most peculiar description.
Perhaps the most striking of all are rep
resentations of two celebrated paintings.
"The Crucifixion" and "Ecce Homo." One
woman has depicted on her skin a picture
representing a flight of birds. Portraits
of husbands and lovers are popular with
women, and there are several instances in
which women have been tattooed with
their husband's regimental crest. Mono
grams, initials and family quarterings
There are some instances where women
have had the Inscriptions on their wed
ding rings tattooed on their fingers be
neath the ring. Etchings of bracelets in
yellow encircle the arms of many.
Languages, too', have their due share of
attention. Many women have written on
their arms words belonging to various
tongues?Assyrian, Chinese, Arabic. Re
ligious subjects are very popular, especially
with Roman Catholics.
The women of the smart set who like to
keep pace with the times may new be
adorned with illustrations of motor cars.
Another device which finds favor at pres
ent is that of a figure of Cupid disap
pearing into the recesses of a pewter pot,
having cast aside his bow and quiver. This
picture, which has been tattooed on the
skin of many women, is entitled "Love
Gone to Pot."
The Domestic Craze.
It is surprising the number of young
people of the fashionable Bet of New York,
Chicago, Philadelphia and other large
American cities who have been tattooed.
Some of them are as variously decorated
as the saltiest old seaman, and those who
have escaped the netdle thus far are en
viously awaiting an opportunity to join the
ranks of the "skin picture?," as the tat
tooed fashionable are called. The designs
are not unlike those found on the arms of
society dames, such as butterflies, eagles,
stars, hearts entwined and bleeding hearts.
Contrary to the general impression, there
is no cruelty connected with the art of tat
tooing by the electric process; in fact,'it
feels just like scratching your hand, and
j does not even draw blood. It is contended
I by professors of the art that If the tattoo
j lng is done in an artistic manner, it Is a
j positive decoration. Some men in New
York, Boston and Chicago have been known
to strut about proud as a turkey with two
tails, even in the winter season. Just to ex
hibit the work done by the tattooing artist.
Ancient and Esteemed.
Tattooing is an ancient and honorable
practice. It goes back to the wooden age?
before the folks that lived then knew what
metal was. They went to war with axes
made from wood. In order to harden the
wood they charred it slightly with lire.
They whacked each other with a good deal
of skill and some of the charcoal came off
in the wound. When it healed a blue streak
was left. Warriors were known from the
number of such streaks that their faces
showed. Presently they found out how to
make streaks in times of peace. From that
it was but a step to crude designs, and in
the centuries that followed tattooing has
The Japanese are particularly r lept In
handling the tattooing needle, wor ,ng out
very elaborate designs, the tools they use
being very neat and well adapted for the
An electric tattooing machine has been
Invented which accomplishes the work
much quicker and neater than the needle
used In the old method.
It Is tbe practice of a "professor" who
receives a patient to request the latter to
bare his or her arm. and then the opera
tion begins. The "professor" washes the skin
with antiseptic and shaves away the hairs.
Rubbing a little cocaine Into the skin, he
next proceeds to stencil the desired design.
A Sapid Process.
He then turns the current into an electric i
oirtttn* machine, and, at the rate -of a
thousand pundtxirea .* minute, traces the
outline. General?, tf* patient winoes sev
eral times, but finally become* used to tha
pricking sensation and makes no further
complaint. Thara ltr little or no aim of
blood during the tlnie the akin la being
punctured. <f<
The designs tre finished with a shading
machine operated by electricity. Although
eight needle* go Into; the patient's arm at
each throb of tUe ourfent, It does not hurt
as muoh aa the work done by the outline
maohine with ttssingte point of steel. After
a little more coTbr has been worked into the
holes left by tirtf shading machine the "pro
fessor," as a Me. includes his artistic
operation by binding t? the arm and letting
nature have full, away" In healing the punc
tures made. n. 5s 1
dressmaking aids.
Dress Forma of Several Kinds.
Busy women and lazy women who give
that time-honored excuse for dowdlness?
lack of time to devote to the dressmaker?
can no longer avail themselves of this plea.
With all the new devices for fitting and
building gowns, women no longer need be
martyrs to the caprices of a modiste.
With the introduction of these various in
ventions It has become more the fad for
women to do a fcreat deal of their own
dressmaking. This is not such a formi
dable task if the sewing room is well
equipped with a wire adjustable frame and
a pneumatic dress form.
The latter apparatus consists of a Ilnli.g'
made of thin rubber, cut and fitted bv a
good tailor, and put together so that It is
air tight. When the home dressmaker
wishes to fit her srown she blows up her
pneumatic rubber form through the tiny
orifice at the base aVid then screws a cap
over it so It will retain the required shape
as tong as necessary. A stiff collar is pro
vided for the neck, which can also be ad
justed to any size.
After the form is partially blown up the
honr.e dressmaker fastens her lining over
it and Increases the volume of air until the
form completely fills the lining. She can
then make as many experiments as she
likes without changing her own gown or
enduring the fatigue of standing in one
position any length of time.
Another simple device Is a form made
out of a perfect-fitting dress lining. This
is symmetrically stuffed with cotton or
curled hair, and then the openings at the
neck and sleeves and base are closed to
prevent the filling from dropping out.
Dishes in Which Onions Figure.
Onions au gratin?Boil three or four on
ions for one hour in two quarts of salted
water. Pour off the water and then cut up
the onions. Put them In a baking dish and
pour over them half a pint of cream sauce
and half a cup of grated bread crumbs dot
ted with bits of butter. Place in a quick
oven and bake for twenty minutes.
Escaloped onions?Boil the onions nntil
tender in salted water to which lias been
added a little milk. Drain and pot the
onions in a baking dish with alternate lay
ers of bread crumbs, salt, pepper and a
dash of powdered sage Dot each layer of
bread crumbs with pieces of butter. Pour
over the whole a half cup of milk. Cover
the top with bread crumbs and small pieces
of butter. Bake it a light brown and serve
Buttered Spanish onions?Peel large Span
ish onions carefully so as to remove only
the outer skin. With a sharp knife cut oft
the top; make a.hole In the middle of each
onion and fill with the following stuffing:
Cat into squares some veal kidney and
good bacon. Chop separately a little pars
ley and suet and mix All together, adding
?alt and-pepper to taste. When the onions
are filled the tops are replaced and secured
with a string. Place them in a buttered
pan and bake slowly. Basting with melted
butter. W hen perfectly done remove the
string and serve on thick slices of toast.
Fried apples and onions?Use twice as
many rather sour apples as onions. Slice
the apples without paring them, and also
slice the onions fine, a ad fry them togetner
in butter, being careful to keep the pan
covered to hold the steam, which will pre
WhlI? cooking sprinkle
slightly with sugar to give added flavor.
Spring Fashions.
Very fine soft cloths, varies and woolens,
which drape and fail well and adapt them
selves to the full-skirted styles, are preva
lent materials, but as the season advances
the new soft taffetas are gaining a footing
in feminine hearts. Tiny checks in laven
der and white, pink and white and so on.
such as were worn forty or fifty years ago,
will be quite the rage, and others with old
world delicate colorings for background
show modest little rosebuds or single flow
ers as pattern. All these old-fashioned col
ors, recalling some quaint garden in which
laiender and cherry pie perfumed the air
together with the cabbage rose, whose soft
petals of the true vieux rose shade were
sweeter far than those of its modern suc
cessors, will be worn thrown up In relief
here and there by petunia, larkspur Mue
and green, and as a restful background the
whole gamut of taupe shades from dark
?sryr ??" -
The Scents of Dukani.
A novel game has been introduced called
"the scents of dukani."
The scents, thirty In number, are Inclosed
each In a little bag and suspended from a
rope. A lady chooses a partner, and to
gether they go and "nose" the bags, one
after the other, and write down what they
suppose to be Its scent. The pair who suc
ceed In making the most correct list are
the winners.
That there Is a good variety of odors Is
easily seen from the list appended: Cloves,
cinnamon, ginger, nutmeg, verbena, eu
calyptus, onion, brown soap, Bombay duck,
aloes, eau de cologne, musk, coffee, tea!
lavender, camphor, creosote, lemon, pepper
mint, whisky, brandy, ammonia, benzine,
turpentine, mustard, licorice. aniseed,
cheese, carrot and curry powder.
The New Lace Waists.
Under the new short boleros are worn
very fine specimens of the batiste shirt
with valenclennes lace and Insertions or
quaint muslin embroideries. They are real
ly charming and show the revival of hand
Beautiful laces lined with chiffon worn
over satin slips as well as painted gauzea
and delicate chiffons form admirable after
noon blouses and are important factors now
In the wardrobe on account of the after
noon bridge parties.
"Something New."
Certain members of the fashionable world,
always In search^f that "something new,"
which Inevitably, of course, resolves Itself
Into something old renewed, have grown
tired of even the most Artistic kind of elec
tric lighting for1 their dinner tables and
have brought forth from the plate chest
those huge candelabra which have not seen
the light for mafty a day. Assuredly the
soft mellow glow shed by wax candles has
never been surpassed where the becoming
element Is conceened, and the old silver
candelabra with Hi many bleamingbranches
gives grace to any dinrter table. Of course
for some time many fortunate owners of
these pieces of sHYer i^tve had them fitted
t^bte eleCtrlC ll8htS for use on the dinner
. u ,
Increasing Demand lor Lace in Mil
From the Millinery Trade Review.
The demand for lace and different sorts
of tulles and nets Is very large and runs
for the most part in tinted varieties. All
kinds of lace, but principally Alencon. Mech
lin and Brussels, are provided In most fash
ionable colors, both light and dark. These
are usually dipped laces; few are originally
woven in color. One of the latest additions
to the list -s colored crochet wheels which
make up very pretty transparent' shapes
with a bordering of straw braids around
the edge. Besides plain tulle for making
drawn gathered shapes, there is a consid
erable demand for sprigged and spotted
net. In some of these the spots are woven
In the fabrics, and others have chenille vel
vet or gold spots or sequins put on by hand
Small sequins stamped out in the shape of
sprigs are used. Sequins are also laid In
clusters to form cabochons.
The Reasons Why a Japanese
Girl Has Strong Muscles.
The Exercises Which Build Up Her
Body and Give Her Health?
Written for The Evening Star by {Catherine Morton.
Every day of the year that the little Japa
nese girl lives she is training her muscles.
Her dancing lessons are only a. part of this
For some reason the Japanese race has
never been tall. Students differ as to the
reason of this. Some ascribe it to diet,
some to climate, and nowadays we are hear
ing that It is because of sitting on the floor.
Whatever be the true reason, it has stunted
physical development in only that one way.
Whatever forces have combined to make
dolls of the Japanese have not narrowed
their shoulders or lessened their agility. The
Japanese maiden is a sturdy little athlete.
"When I was visiting Nagasaki with a
friend," said a traveler the other day, "we
happened to fall into a frolic with two merry
little rr.nider.s who were bewitching in the
gayest of flowered kimunas. They were
as playful and as harmless and as rough as
two fat Newfoundland puppies. In the
good-tempered tussle they had us worsted
so soon that we had to flee to save our vani
ty. My companion's hair was disgracefully
mussed, my necktie was awry and our col
lars were limp. It was all absurd and un
dignified. but one could no more demand
dignity of such simpl*. primitive little girls
as these than of a pair of kittens.
"What I learned from the incident was
that the Japr?nf>s<i girl is strong, quick and
merry. I don't know of three qualities that
promise more for her own advancement and
that of future generations."
So. all unconsciously, little Miss Japan
is doing her share toward building up a
race of strong people?the kind that wear
sound minds in sound bodies. The physical
culture which comes to her casually in
her every-day life gives her a rounded fig
ure, graceful motions, bright eyes and a
clear skin. Her happy and playful dis
position wards off wrinkles and a drooping
She Needs No Stays.
One thing that gives strength to the lit
tle trunk is her manner of sitting. It may
be what prevents her towering to a Gib
son height, but it gives her backbone a
sureness that we may well envy.
"I am so miserable without my corset,"
many an American girl says. "I need It
so for a support. When I take it off I feel
as if my spine were going to collapse. I
am entirely dependent on it."
Whoever heard Miss Japan say a thing
like this? She does not know the meaning
of a corset. Furthermore, she has not
even a chair back for support.
Now. I am not a dress reformer and I
do not condemn all corsets. I have a femi
nine liking for the shapeliness which a
well-fitted corset gives to the smart spring
suit of tailored cheviot. But if I had a
monopoly on all the corsets In the world
I would never let a woman have one until
she ceased to want It. I would hold it
dandling above her as a reward and say.
"When your spine holds Itself up Inde
pendently, when you learn to be strong:
and erect and elastic without its aid.
when you are no more drooping and weary
without it than with it?then you may have
the daintiest little affair, all adorned with
ribbons and lace and rosebuds, from my
Santa Glaus pack."
She Felt a Prisoner.
The Japanese girl educates her spine with
never a reward except virtue's own. Prob
ably she would see no charm In even the
prettiest of Filtnch corsets. I knew a lit
tle Japanese woman who came to this coun
try and adopted our style of dress. She
owned that for weeks she shed tears Into
one of our strange cloth handkerchiefs
every morning when the problem of dress
ing confronted her. The red tape of it all
was maddening and the corset made her
feel like a prisoner.
For the woman who finds herself depend
ent upon the support of stays there is no
better training than fifteen minutes of Jap
anese sitting every day. Divide the fifteen
minutes into as many parts as necessary It
the whole dose proves too hard a one.
Later on you may try It for ten minutes
three times a day.
Lay a cushion on the floor. There is no
need of callousing the knees. Now stand
erect, facing the cushion. Raise the skirt
slightly in front, to avoid straining It. Next
kneel, bringing the knees well forward on
the cushion and keeping the body perfectly
erect from the knees up. Next, lower the
body to a sitting posture, still keeping the
body erect from the hips up. Tou will flnd
that you are sitting upon your heels, so to
speak. Not only does the spine learn erect
ness from this position, but there is a
splendid tugging vpon the leg muscles.
Eows to the Ground.
While very young the little girl is taught
to bow. The bow In Japan means no slight
tilting of the head such as we meet nowa
days, nor even a demure courtesy such .is
our great-grandmothers dropped: It is a
bow so deep that it brings the little lady's
very forehead to the floor. She practices It
dally, before the shrine where she wor
ships, before guests and elders and in her
pretty dance. The grace of it bears wit
ness to the suppleness of all her muscles.
To perform the bow, bring yourself to the
sitting posture described above. Now ex
tend the arms and hands in front, palms
down. Bend forward until the palms lie
flat upon the floor, arms still extended
straight. Bring the forehead to the floor.
Hold this position for several seconds, hut
not long enough to feel any discomfort in
the head. Rise to the erect standing posi
tion, and repeat the movement. You may
give yourself the commands in this wise:
"Stand, knees, hips, palms, forehead." Prac
tice with the cushion at first, gradually
bringing yourself to the point of doing
without it. Repeat until every joint in the
body feels "oiled." It is an excellent exer
cise to limber the body when stiffness is
setting in from a cold, a cramped position,
or slight attack of rheumatism.
Calls It "Flying."
With arms outspread to represent wings,
the little Japanese girl plays a game which
she calls "flying." Extending the arms at
the side as far as they will reach, she
brings her body to a squatting position,
then bobs vigorously up and down with a
flapping motion of the arms. The object of
the game is to find who can bob the great
est number of times before the umpire
cries "The nest is reached."
This means that the leg muscles must
work fast and hard. The little players are
tingling from head to foot with the exer
cise when the game is over.
The girls, while frolicking by themselves,
often indulge in the boys' sports. A favor
ite form of racing among the Japanese (one
that is always in evidence at such contests
as constitute a field day with us, is run
n:ng while holding an egg balanced upon a
spcon. It is great fun to watch a crowd of
the little girls out In some secluded field.
raring away for dear life, their bright kl
mcnas fluttering about the ankles, their
lo?K sleeves floating out behind like wings
and ttielr funny little top-bnots bobbing <19
they run.
Jumping Is another feat in whl-ii the
little girl indulges when her brother Is far
out of the way. It would not be ./onsistent
with her modesty to let him s ,e any such
daring performance. One if the party
climbs ir.to a tree, crawls f ,.r out on a limb
and holds a tempting plum or cherry Just
out of reach of her companions below They
juipp for it, and the iruit is held higher and
higher as the jumping progresses.
Knows How to Climb.
The Japanese boy has come to be known
as a wonderful climber. His work as a
sailor shows this In California, wher*
hundreds of th**?? hoys are employed in
domestic service, thoy are the only window
washers ^ anted. They swing themselves
out dariagly from the highest windows,
scale narrow ledges, and somehow or other
they contrive to keep their balance in the
dizzk'Ft spots.
This cat-like ability Is not conflned to
the Japanese boy, all hough his sister Is
much hampered by her modesty and her
kimona. However, turn her loose where no
man can see, and she will climb a tree like
a cat, going to the highest limbs that will
bear her weight.
All t+iis vigorous life means that the cir
culation of the blood is kept up. and the
wholesome perspiration excited. The aver
age Japanese girl knows nothing of trie
value of these two things. She does not
realize that they mean far more to her
beauty than do the stains which she ap
plies to her iips. cheeks and eyebrows. She
owes the clearness of her complexion to
the great amount of exercise that she tak^s.
Nothing cleanses the pores of the skin as
perspiration does. Nothing brightens all
the coloring, even that of the hair, as a
brisk circulation does. The little lady of
the islands, unwittingly, has solved a big
pi oblem.
Useful Suggestions.
A moth and freckle bleach is made of 12
ounces rosewater. 4 ounces alcohol,2 ounces
glycerine, 12 grains corrosive sublimate.
You must decide for yourself as to the us?
of so powerful a remedy. It Is a poison
and must never touch eyes or lips. It re
moves the outer skin with the brown spots
and will do so very rapidly unless diluted.
I strongly advise the dilution?make It weak
enough to cause only a slight smarting. l>o
not use it at all unless your skin is In a
wholesome condition. Bathe the oily skin
with a mixture of 1 quart camphor water,
1 our.ee glycerine, V2 ounce pulverized borax.
Strengthen the growth of the eyebrows by
the following ointment: Two ounces red
vaseline, ha ounce tincture cantharldes. 13
drops oil rosemary, 15 drops oil lavender.
They will appear darker as they thicKun
and this is better than staining them.
A lotion for blackheads consists of 2
ounces pure brandy. 1 ounce cologne, Vi
ounce liquor of potussa. Give the face a
thorough bath of warm water and soap at
night, then apply the lotion.
Use castile soap and the complexion brush
for enlarged pores. A good cold cream Is
made by melting together in a jar 1 pint
sweet oil, 2 ounces white wax, % ounce
spermaceti. Add your favorite scent.
Freckles may be removed by a mixture of
1 pint rosewater, 1 ounce alum, 1 ounce
lemon juice.
Singeing the hair is better than clipping
tt. Have it dorve by an experienced person.
Massage the scalp every night with a tonio
made of 1 ounce cologne water, 1 ounce
glycerine of borax. 1 ounce vinegar can
tharldes and enough distilled water to bring
the whole to 6 ounces.
Do not use peroxide of hydrogen until
you have tried loosening your hair and sit
ting where the sun strikes it as many hours
a day as possible. Shampoo weekly with
green soap, followed by water In which a
teaspoonful Naf borax Is dissolved. Rinse la
pure water and lemon juice.

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