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6H0ULDER AND SKIRT TRIMMINGS
EXTREMELY FRAGILE Summer Gowns Follow Dainty French Models. SEEN AT THE FETES NEW SHOULDER TRIMMINGS THAT ARE IN FAVOR. Short Jackets Show No Seams?New Millinery Fea tures. Special Correspondence of The Evening Star. NEW YORK, April 28, 1901. Notwithstanding the fact that summer styles yearly put In an appearance long be fore this period, It is really the month of May which decides them in Paris. Then t'n? conventional coaching parade which America knows is replaced by a splendid pageant of fashion, which, with horns and what not, likewise winds itself through wooded ways. The Avenue des Acacias, In the Bois de Boulogne, Is the route chosen for this pro cession, which Is gazed upon and applauded by thousands. Every fair one tries to out do her neighbor in point of costume, and when some specially charming get-up Is cheered somebody says: "Behold! a chef d'oeuvre. This will live." The extreme fragility ever expressed by these early toilets often confounds the spectator from over the seas, more used to chill winds than balmy airs at this mo ment. But the Parisian spring comes early, and by the second week of May the trees are generally likewise in their spring clothes and the summer flowers have be gun. So the thin silky gauzes and pale voiles and bail-like designs?for flower fete fashions are often elaborate to this degree ?do not seem out of place: and if to speak truly, the belle Parislenne is a bit cold J FEATURES OF SUMMER STYLES. misty grays and opaline and sea tints, scar let is a frequent note. In Chiffon Voile. One gown of exceptional beauty Is of chif fon voile in this flashing tint. A blouse waist and trimmed skirt composes the model with sulphur-colored lace for the yoke and under-sleeves. The tricorne hat supplied for this toilet is of scarlet Pana ma, with a saffron brim and pure white roses, and the parasol is of white and saf fron lace over red chiffon. A detail remarked as a favorite one with fashion was a shoulder trimming shown by the bodice of this gown. Taking the form of a sort of cape in folds, edged by a band of lace, this shoulder covering was repeated on other gowns in number less other ways. One displayed a sort of Puritan collar of magnificent lace placed over chiffon and garnishee with black and white spotted net. Other yokes possessed a straight or shap ed flounces fall, or a lace or chiffon sur plice scarf, which crossed at the waist, but whatever was the device the shoulder seam was always hidden, or else elaborated with all sorts of lengthening trimmings. Delightfully Loose. Another point extremely charming is the absence of seaming in many of the short jacket effects, which are seen in legions this season. A thin silky crepe bolero, in burnt ivory, had the sleeves and body portion cut in one, or rather in two pieces, for the halves met at the back. A delightful loose ness was expressed by this trick, and sev eral soft shades of brownish net composed the rest of the toilet. Violet and blue, strange as it may sound, was the color scheme of a voile gown whose ! skirt displayed huge flowers and garlands of chiffon and lace. Not a single skirt of the whole of this imported batch was untrimmed. Bach and every one displayed a garnishing of some sort, some mounting as high as the waist? t narrow ruches of silk or net above frills.of lace; wide folds put on to simulate tucks and also headed in some way; and flounces and insets and applications innumerable. Then each and everry one fell in a way to ravish the eye and distract the soul that would copy it. and, though all seemed to be very wide when the skirt was tried on. the drop linings were observed to be carefully fitted at the hips. Skillful Fitting. The seeming looseness of the bodices was also deceiving, for never w re waist founda tions more scrupulously adjusted than ntfw, the long seam, running to the shoulder, at present employed instead of the old bust dart, making a great improvement in the fit. The best skirt linings are shaped at PARISIAN FLOWER FETE GOWNS sometimes, her pride keeps her from show ing It. Year after jear the toilets which are de Blgned for the Parisian fetes ties fleurs arc reproduced for the American market. This season is no exception to the rule, and ?Ince the dressiest of the new styles are extravagantly picturesque some of these gowns are adorably lovely. Pretty Full Trains. Taken en masse it is noticed that the most effective skirts with these elegant costumes train to some degree, and are made to look only moderately full. The prevailing bodice is in blouse form, and the laces used are of the thinnest variety, chantilly and lierre abounding over other sorts. Among the novelty laces, employed upon the silks especially, are some black webs with figures in colors and various [ ?potted and odd meshed nets, which are I made up into narrow" ruches. More elabo rate laces form blouses and bolero effects, in combination with plain voiles and self colored silks. As to these materials, silks and toiles ? re mote numerous than other textures, h numter showing colors exquisitely delicate In some cases and rarely rich In others. Matching parasols also accompany many of the toilets. Hut where B?me of these r ?eem unusually large, other? are very tiny, 1 being in sire and design exact replicas of the carriage parasols used these many years. The larger sorts and those of me dium size are more numerous, and are often j bewllderlngly furbelowed at the bottom. I The hats, for there are fete des fleurs hats, too, are both large and small; and along with pale violets, cloud-like mauvea, REPRODUCED FOR AMERICANS. the back and front with folded pleats In stead of the former stitched darts. The apron gore is cut out very much at the waist, so that" frequently the side breadths can be drawn over the hips without full ness. thus lessening bulk at a point where it is important to appear sylph-like. But no matter how sedulously the founda tions are looked after, the new costumes are expressive of too much fullne3s to suit entirely any but slender figures. So those inclined to embonpoint had batter s;e to It that the dressmaker is not led into flight of modish fancy, in the way of fussy sleeve3 and skirts aux volants. For such figures, the Jupes with horizon tal garnitures or s do pleits" are advised. For ie bodice bolero effects are always goou for thick figures, the gathered blouses in airy textiles over which these are placed being also slimming in tendency. Medlum slied sleeves likewise aid in the good work. Bolero Jackets. But bolero effects will be worn by every body, and more than one Imported gown with such a detail will show a chiffon un derwalst. Indeed, It is stated, a number of the fine midsummer carriage and racing frocks will be entirely of chiffon, with mar velous finger manipulation of the same tex ture for trimming. A wonderful flower fete gown in shaded violets and white Is trimmed with fuschla fringes made In this way. The double skirt, whose tunic Is slightly pointed at the front and edged deeply with fringes, es capes the ground all around. A pelerine cape bordered in the same way hid all of the bodice but the plain puffed sleeves, which came barely to the elbow. Delightfully coquettish accessories with these tolletg ?traifht soarfs of ohlflon of flit, wjui flounoe or lace borders. w^ ?lL ^ entirely for orhament, will be worn in many ways, some rery low Ota tha afms, others close about the throat, but all witn aowns of matching elegance. But coming to airy details?things which fall gracefully and float behind you when you walk?the furore for lace veils l? ?n the Increase. Out of a doaen ?ow?r f?te hats seen, five were veil draped, In Chan tllly webs In beautiful tints. For Country Wear. With a "straw" raffla turban, massed with purple and white cherries, a purple veil was arranged to let down over the face when wanted. Apple green, scarlet and brown lace veils are also worn, though very likely these will be employed chiefly as hat trimmings here. At the races or out of town they will not seem so con spicuous, for It is really for such use the colored veil has been designed. Paradise plumes are also a feature or the new millinery, and cherries hang tempting ly from many a delightful headpiece.w.nll The suggestion for this mothe is obvlou . France grows wonderful cherries and Paris sells them by the ton?black cherries, red cherries, pink cherries. So these de'ocUihle dainties In many other huea and s.zes as big as plums, we are once more to wear upon our heads. are again in style DAMES OF THE MIDDLE AGES AND THEIR CHESTS. Craze for Antique Furniture Has Res urrected. the Coffer. Written for The Evening Star. The feminine world Is again taking to the use of stately and artistic coffers or chests_ The dames of the middle ages, who had no convenient bureaus in which to store their finery, were dependent upon the cof fer. Some of thesa historic chests are marvels of delicate carving, inlay work and painting. The greatest artists of Italy did not disdain to decorate these recep tacles. So valuable were some of the coffers that a great lady was considered well dowered if she received one on her marriage day. It was placed in her chamber, with the great bedstead and a stool or two, which were the sole furnishings. Toward the close of the eighteenth century coffers were all but discarded. Until recently specimens were to be found only in the museums or old castles and manor houses of Europe. Now the taste for antique furniture is bringing the coffers again into favor. Two seen recently were made for the state rooms of yachts. They are both carved and tinted. . One chest Is built of weathered oak, deep ly carved and then stained in green and red. The design represents mermaids sporting in the midst of an ocean forest. Seaweeds and shells are the most conspicuous fea tures in the picture. The other coffer is of oak, having a gray finish. It is decorated with a burnt design. Green and mauve stains are used to touch up the figures. The subject of thesa decora tions is a scene at the court of King Nep tune. Bed room coffers are usually adorned with flowers, birds, buttei flies or some allegorical or mythological scene. One small boudoir chest has representations of Penelope among her maidens upon its panels. Through open windows the sprays of the climbing roses are blown into the room and the flowers with the garments of the wo men are brilliantly colored. Scriptural subjects were painted on some of the antique chests, and thesa have been well imitated by modern workmen. The painted panel is set deep in the wood and framed by a wide band of molding. Carved figures, supporting the corners, aud elab orately designed lids are features of the painted chests. Are Heavily Carved. The most ancient designs are the heavily carved ones. Those who are versed in the history of furniture can tell to a nicety the age of a chest by the style of carving and quality of the wood. The earlier Renais sance specimens are almost priceless, and even copies of them are expensive. In ap pearance they are not unlike a coffin. There is usually a richly carved base, the long shallow body above it being slightly curved. The lid projects over the body, and is less deeply cut than the sides. A more modern Renaissance chest, and a style which is more frequently copied, is embellished with small panels, on which appear conventionalized foliage des gns in line work. The shading is burnt into the wood. , . , Gilded and enameled coffers are also to be seen, but they are eighteenth century work and represent the period of decadence. The modern household coffer is usually lined with silk or an art fabric. Plenty of tiny pockets are scattered over the lining, and in these are placed sachets for perfum ing the contents of the box. The chests are convenient receptacles for linen, bed clothes, draperies or garments not in use. Those who can afford a csdar chest need have no fear of moths. Although these or namental boxes cost more than trunks, they will last a lifetime. They are distinctly decorative, and may be made to fit any vacant niche in a small room. The price varies with the style of decoration and wood. Some are comparatively inexpen sive while others, good imitations of the carved antiq- e chest or the gilded and en ameled eighteenth cantury masterpieces, are valued as are most works of art. FOR THE NURSERY. Chintz Wall Paper and Bed Coverings for a Child's Room. Since men's colored bordered handker chiefs have been manufactured purposely to meet the demand of the craze for making negliges and fancy work all sorts of new ideas have been Invented for -their use A dozen may be purchased for 40 cents, and will be sufficient to make a little girl's dress. The skirt should have a flounce of the border cut circular by removing the center and slashing the handkerchief from one corner to the center. This will also make a beautiful collar which will fall in graceful points In the back, over the shoul ders and In front. Wall paper effects in chintzes are much used In the modern nursery. A delightful room recently seen had a deep frieze of pink chintz which had water lilies and their green leaves all over It. The upper third was of dark green cartridge paper. The bed hangings were also of the chintz and were arranged on a hoop over the bed. They were edged with a narrow, pale pink guimp, as were also the curtains. The tiny light willow rockers and chairs had down cushions and pads covered with chintz, which gave the nursery a summery appear ance. Another idea for nursery curtains which pleases the children is the scrim which has red and blue rampant lions all over the white background. This sounds grotesque, but the cloth Is really artistic and effective. It is astonishing how much can be done to make a window attractive. One of the prettiest ideas for either the nursery, living room or den is the use of transparent pic tures. These transparencies can be made by any photographer from views made by the-amateur photographer, or from beau tiful pictures. Flower and landscape pictures are desira ble, but in the matter of selection individual taste has to be consulted. The transparen cies are always framed to keep the pictures from coming in contact with the window panes in cold weather. A good size for each picture is 8%x? inches. A pretty idea which was carried out In a model nursery was the use of Mother Goose and Kate Greenway figures in transparen cies. This window was always the center of attraction to the little people, and It kept them in the sunshine when they were Indoors. NEW PINCUSHIONS. What is Shown for My I^ady's Dress ing Case. Written for The Evening Star. Animal pincushions are seen upon the up-to-date woman's dressing table. They are made of velvet in appropriate colors, and PtM-ueat all sarti ef (jualfit and home ly beam*, si One model is f white valvet rabbit With firing enrs lined WMh paia pink ?ilk. He hM tolnk betd? t* *yett and his llttM mouth la outlined With embroidery eilfc, A pale blue Bilk ribbofl With;* coquettish bow decorates his fat neolr. Tha animal cushions are stuffed with emery powder, whloh pre serves the brightness of pins better than mere sawdust. ? a A pale pink velvet pig, with a handsomely curled silk tall and yellow,'flase bead eyes, Is best described as 'Jeute."Piggy's snout is made conspicuous bp the?Jlttle grass ring that runs through U. Ffpm this ring is suspended a miniature basket for the re ception of my lady"* ring*, when she lays them aside for the #lghttJ The animals' nonea^nd mouth* tire some times embroidered, sometimes painted with water colors. A hat iron.must be passed over the back of that part of the velvet to which the paint Uii to lie applied. Pussy makes ft pretty -pincushion. She j can be best represented In a sitting posi tion. White, gray or black velvet are suit able for her coat, yellow or light green beads are appropriate for her eyes. The mouth is merely outlined with embroidery silk. Whiskers and eyebrows are put In with linen thread, which Is stlfT enough to allow them to stand out Jauntily. Pusses neck should be beautified with a collar and bow of ribbon. Her ears should be ltned with deep pink silk. A stately gray or sacred white elephant serves both as pincushion and ring holder. His back Is covered with a scarlet cloth, gold embroidered, and bears an Imposing howdah, into which the rings or small pieces of Jewelry may be dropped.. If the elephant Is large enough, the rings may be slipped over his trunk. A white velvet lamb, a brown velvet don key, a black or brown velvet horse are some of the forms In which these mascot pincushions appear. They are sold ready made In the shops, but the home fancy i worker can secure a pattern for them by | buying one of those for the making of toy animals of chintz or calico. The paper pat tern may be cut down to any size required. As a rule, the pincushions are not more than three to five Inches In height. LACE-LINED BOUDOIRS [a description of one of the LATEST fads. | New Designs in Bed Spread Covers and Screens?How to Make. The fashionable woman's taste at pres ent inclines to laces, chiffons and softly flowing draperies. She Is not content to avail herself of these effects for her gar ments alone, but adopts them In furnishing the nest In which she spends her hours of ease. Elegant lace boudoir sets are of filet lace, which is heavy and durable. Society women thronged to inspect a col lection of German hand-made linen filet lace, a display of which recently closed in Isew York. Peasants in the remote parts of Germany make this lace in their homes, the work being sent all over Europe by a Berlin agency. This was the first im portant exhibition of this German lace In America, and included altogether new de signs. Of these, perhaps the most strik ing was a set consisting of bedspread, dressing table set, small table cover, mats and a splasher for the withstand. The lace for thea spread was woven In squares and oblongs, and then connected by pieces of fine lace. A 'quaint feature of the table cover, splasher and the bedspread was that each of them represented a scene in some biblical story. On a table cover the sacrifice of Isaac was neatly told In four scenes and inclosed in a beautiful border of conventionalized flowers. The romance of Ruth and Boaz, In nine scenes, adorned the splasher, and on a bedspread was detailed the domestic history of King Ahasuerus and Queen Es ther. Against a gay silk lining "or undercover these laces look like etchings in white and colors. Sumptuous-as th?se laces look st a distance, they resemble, nothing so much as the finer quality of face In Nottingham curtains. A fair - representation of these expensive bedspreads could be made by taking an old Nottingham curtain of good quality, cutting it up Into squares, oblongs and diamonds, and then uniting them smoothly at the edges with pieces of fine scrim or linen. The Bedspread. Care must be taken that each section of lace forms a complete picture. In put ting the ledspread together harmony must be observed in Joining the different pieces. For instance, the central bit may be a large lace diamond. Squares of lace se' diagonally to the center should then be interspersed with squares of plain material. Outside these may come a border of lace or of lace and plain material combined. The darned net lace work once so popular affords the only means of Imitating the fig ure work, for, unfortunately, only conven tionalized flowers and geometrical designs adorn lace curtains. While at close range the darned net does not at all resemble the filet lace, at a considerable distance the lack of similarity is not so striking. Even screen covers are fashioned of tlrs heavy old lace, the Intention of the de signer being to provide something orna mental rather than useful, although with a backing of some thick silk or bright crepe the screen is made both beautiful and eltec tlve. Hats of Hair and Lace. From the MUllnery Trade Review. Owing to the delay occasioned by the strike, the selections of straw braids and shapes are only now beginning to be in any way complete, and the output still falls short of present requirements in point of quantity. Among the lines to which Im portant additions have latterly been made, that of hair biaids may be specially noted. These bi aids are best adapted, by reason of their lightness, to enter into the ornamen tation of hats with tulle and lace founda tions. They are provided In most light col ors. but more will be done in creamy and other tinted whites, In champagne and "send" shades than in positive tones. There are also shapes woven entirely of lialr, as if they had been executed with a big cro chet hook. Such hair liats are semi-trans parent, and are particularly applicable to black and rather dark colors. Rice straws and fine Tuscans are beginning to put in an appearance. The former are shown in pure white, in medium and rather dark shades of color, and in black, the latter, In their own natural, unbleached straw tones. A novelty is in the market, which may or not take here; namely, yedda straw, with patterns, generally flowers or small bouquets, printed upon them In soft colors. Caring for the Old. Fiom Harper'* Bazar. One thing Is very hard for us to realize, and that is that old people, though so childlike in many ways?in Innocence, in lovableness, often, too, In eager interest in the activities going on about them?are not at all childlike in one important particu lar; they are not teachable. Nor is this their fault, but the fault of old age itself, of that hardening of the tissues of brain and nerve which constitutes old age. The spirit dwelling within may be gently meek and full of humilUy and wisdom; but the organism no longer nimbly responds. A sort of. slow petrification is going on, and although In noble natures this process re sults in preservlng_.thoughts and feelings of fernlike delieacy In imperishable beauty, yet it does not lead itanlf to the reception or ikw Impressions. The central growth n.ay go on, and new ideas which harmonize with the old may be received into the or ganism, but surface things, such as daily habits set beyond alteration. The Queen of Queens. S. E. KUer In the Chicago Record-Herald. States rise and fall; tte (centered king* Arrayed in royal robes today Mast pass with other earthly things. Their fame shall fade, their thrones decay. But ooe proud quwn will always reign And claim allegiance everywhere; Her realm I* all of man'* domain, Her throne the peaceful rocking chair. Her prince'* bead lie* on her breast, Her crown Is Jov, ber scepter love; She reign* by right divine, expressed Directly to her from *bove. Though kings must pass, though nations wane. The glad young mother, proud aud fair, While men are men *hall sweetly reign. Enthroned upon the rocking chair. . DECORATIVE DANGERS Troubles That Beset the Home Dressmaker. PRESERVE THE LINE8 NO MATTER HOW MANY SHIB B.INGS AND TRIMMINGS. The Best Fabrics to Choose for Dressy Afternoon Wear. Written for The EYcnlnft Rtnr by Harriet llnwley. This 1b the year when the home dress maker will look well before she leaps, scis sors In hand, into the folds of newly pur chased fabric. Never has she been con fronted with such subtle dangers of over trimming. The patterns and designs look simple with their bands of shirring, but they often work out abominably under the lrexpeilenced hand. 8hirrings. ruchings and flounces. In 1>#W and for almost a decade longer, were primarily designed to make the figure as broad as possible, and the hoopskirt was employed to help on the good work. But in the year 1904 there must be shirrings, ruchings and flounces without "bunchi ness" and without roundness. How to pre serve the slender, graceful lines of the fig ure and still employ the fashionable styles Ecru Messaline, With Novelty Braid, Simulating Fagotting. of trimming is the problem which must be solved. Naturally, the first aid is the wise selec tion of materials. Certain fabrics lend themselves particularly well to the prevail ing modes of decoration, and it seems as if manufacturers of woolen, silk and cotton goods have foreseen this sartorial crisis. The new voiles and etamines are more si'.ky in their finish this year, and crumple in the hand almost as readily as silk. These ar? particularly valuable for fashioning smartly trimmed afternoon costumes. The best taste demands a silk drop skirt in self tone, though the dashing woman still hun gers for the drop skirt of contrasting but harmonizing tone, such, as pale blue or yel low with brown voile, pale green with helio tiope, and so on. Crepe de chine has never been in greater demand than this season, since It lends Itself well to shirring. It can be bought at all prices, starting at 51) cents a yard, and in various widths. It comes in ail the pop ular day and evening shades, and invaria bly calls for silk linings. A Good Example. It is one of the few materials which will admit of the shirring in conventional de signs which mark many of the imported gowns. A frock from Paris, recently shown at an opening, illustrates this fact. The material is oyster-colored crepe de chine, combined with lace medallions, made over soft silk in self-tone. The skirt is shirred at the waist to form a yoke, which is short over the hips, deeply pointed in the back and stops on either side of the front, where the seams of the middle gore would naturally come. This forms a semi circle on the hips, and a plain panel for the front gore, with plenty of fullness on the sides and back. Just below the knees there runs a band of medallions, overlapping slightly, and be low this comes two tiny shirred ruffles of the crepe de chine. Then comes a four lr.ch band of ornate shirring, la'd In the form of hollow squares, with a medallion set in each square, and below this are three ruffles of shirred crepe de chine, graduated so that the deepest is around the foot of the skirt. The bodice is tight-fitting in the back, with shirrings tightly and smoothly laid on the silk lining. A smooth-fitting yoke of all-over lace to match the medallions has a plain, tight-fitting collar, and is met by the blouse proper, which is curved at the upper edge in the form of half moons, cut ting off the yoke at the shoulder line. Elaborate Trimming. At a distance of perhaps an inch these half moons are outlined by shirrings in a conventional design not unlike half a petal of the lotus bloom, which, after following the line of the half moon, run down in four tiny shirrings to the waist line, tapering almost to a point. Directly under the upper curve of this shirred design is laid a medal lion, which gives four shirred designs and four medallions across the bust. The lower half of the sleeve is formed of tight-fitting shirrings. and the upper half Is a voluminous puff, with a semi-cir cular cap shirred tightly into the arm's eye. and finished with a shaped ruffle, cov ered with medallions. The girdle is pointed and covered with all-over lace, and finished with buttons in nouveau art. Among silks, the re west favorite is mes sailne, which resembles both India silk and chiffon, and is most pliable and dainty for the much-trimmed frock. It comes in all the plain colors and can be combined with lace or chiffon decorations. A pretty nr>de for this fabric is illustrated In a calling costume of champagne messa line, in which handrun tucks, sharing and a novelty braid showing champagne, pale blue and gold, are combined. A Tucked Yoke. The skirt has a yoke of tucks running around the hips, but cut by lengthwise strips of the braid. The tucking forms a point or V-shaped piece in the front gore, and from this point, running around the Bkirt, are eight or nine rows of shirring, which gives the necessary fullness to the garment. The skirt has a slight train, and Is finished with three-inch-wide tucks. The entire blouse is laid in hand-run E ORRINE CODES DRUNKENNESS. PEOPLE'S MISSION, 910 Penn. Ave. WAMlItfOTON, I>. O.. Fabrsary 3P. 190*. Tb# Orrtne Co., Inc., Washington. D. C. Gentlemen! It la very gratifying ln<k>* 1 for mo to report to jo\i that Orrine hu proven to toy entire aatlafaction that It In a specific for flri?ki?iiiiw. A patent who bad been drinking abo?t a pint of Whiskey a day for a great msny years waa completely cared within tea daya fn?ra the time bo took the first dose of Orrine, ami ho Is now rwtond to perfect eobrlety, I aball bo flad to bare yon refer an/ person to mo for a verification of thin etstoment. 1 hare no way of thanking /on for the g<*o?l j-ou have done and sm doing with Orrlno. which 1 am convinced la a euro for that terrlbla disease, drunkenness. Wishing you great succoas, I am, youre very truly, W. C. UcmOKlAKU Superintendent People's Mbarton. No Sanitarium Treatment or Publicity! NO ABSENCE FROM IIOMB OR LOSS OF TIMKJ Mothers, wives and sisters. yon cannot cure these who are afflicted with thfa most trrr bla of nil disenses by your fervent prayers cr eyes red with tears, nor by your hope that th< y may stop drinking. It can be dons only *lth OAD1XK. Yon have the remedy?will ycu us** It? If y( u de sire to cure without the knowledge of ti e patleut, buy OltRlNE No. 1; If the patient d.-s ivs to bo cured of bla own free will, buy ORRINE No. 2. Full directions In each package. PRICE. 91 PF.lt BOX. SOLD AND RECOMMENDED BY SIMMS', 14th and New York avc., Washington. DAY'S, 14th and P at*.. Washington. WILLIAMS'. 9th and F sts., Washington. HENRY EVANS. 922 924 F st. n w.. Washington. WELLER'S. 7*5 8tb at. i.e., Washington. F. P. WKLLER. ,1534 M st.. Washington. E. S. LEADBEATEB & SONS. Alexandria. Va. For free book?"Treatis? on Drunkenness and How to Cure It"?call on the sbove druggists or write to The Orrine Co., Inc., Washington, D. C. CTWe will gladly furnish a treatment free of fwt to any physician to demonstrate that Orrine 1? a positive apeclOc for drunkenness. X31 ALL CORRESPONDENCE CONFIDENTIAL. Cure Effected or Money Refunded. tucks, except the under arm pieces, and the front has a design formed by bands of the braid, which also outlines the arm's eye and the collar. The sleeves are tucked from arm's eye to elbow. and from elbow to a narrow cuff at the wrist they fall In a bishop puif. A pointed belt completes the gown. An ecru messaline combined with novelty silk braid, simulating fagoting, is another effective design. The skirt tits snugly and plainly at the waist line, and then three inches lower is Inset a circular yoke, formed of the nov elty braid set between double shirrincs of the material. From this yoke the skirt runs plain and simple in the regulation seven gores to a deep flounce, which cotnes almost to the knees and which Is the most ornate feature of the costume. Half Moons. The flounce follows exactly the circular lines of the yoke above It, forming immense half moons or semi-circles, pointing down ward This is built of the shirred messa line. as described above in the yoke, with the inset of novelty braid. In the dip or center of each semi-circle is a square of the novelty braid about three inches in diam eter, and from the lower edge of the shlr rings the flounce falls full and free to the foot. The blouse has a deep shirred yoke at tached to a collar of the novelty braul, and with a square of the braid inset in the center. This yoke is outlined with a band of the braid, which follows the bust line straight over the upper part of the sleeve, so that the arm's eye line is en tirely lost. Two lines of shirring run be low the braid, from which point the blouse, inset with three blocks of braid, is gather ed into a pointed belt of the braid, over silk. The sleeve lias a deep cult of the braid, and over this falls a puff, formed of shirred silk, inset with braid. It will be noted that all these designs in shirring call for circular or pointed ef fects. In no instance does the shirring run straight around the body. The home dressmaker should bear this fact in mind as one of the saving graces?one of the best remedies for "bunchiness." Still an other warning is against the combination of shirring and ruchings. Insets of lace should go with the shirring. Plenty Lace Used. Insets of lace and quantities of inser tion are employed with such fabrics as batiste and organdy; and here, too, the pointed or curved designs are employed A dainty organdy showing pale pink rose pinlieads has Valenciennes insertion run ning in four rows around the skirt to out line the flounce, and here graceful, wave like curves are used, coming almost to a point in the front, and rising in sweeping curves upward on the back of the skirt. The same wave-like design is employed in the insertion of the blouse and the sleeves, while a curved yoke and collar of solid in sertion is Joined by shirrings to a shirred upper sleeve, giving the long shoulder ef fect. An ecru voile, figured in brown crescents, combines shirring and tucking. The skirt has a slightly shirred yoke, and falls like an overskirt over a shaped flounce of the material. The bottom of the simulated overskirt is cut in tabs, between which are elaborate Insets of heavy ecru lace. The blouse is a combination of eton and bolero, tucked from the shoulders in groups of three and cut out in tabs to match the skirt. These tabs fall over a lingerie ruffle of point d'esprlt and there Is a square col lar of the lace. The sleeves are cut In tabs at the elbow to fall over a half sleeve of point d'esprit. The crush girdle Is of soft brown silk to match the crescent in the fabric. Vogue of the Veil. From the Millinery Trade Review. I shall not venture as yet to pronounce an opinion respecting the maintenance of the present vogue for tulle and lace veils and other pendent arrangements for the backs of hata. It certainly has the favor of many of the very best houses, but then It put in an appearance rather early for a style which ia to last out the entire season. Prob ably the matter will depend chiefly on the caprice or fancy of the leaders of Parisian society. For the present, it Is extremely well thought of. Needless to say that such draperies assume a variety of forma. One new method is to use a square lace veil for the purpose, drawing it up into a width of about four inches, and then attaching it to the back of th? crown so that it falls thence over the shoulders. Another is to veil the whole hat with piece tulle, having a large corner of the same hanging down the back in unstudied folds. A very pretty way of arranging a large veil on a hat is to fasten It to the front of the brim and then throw it back over the crown and fasten up the folds with a gilt pin so that the edged portion falls at tho side raher far back. In this way is a cream colored lace veil arranged on a white rice straw hat lined with black straw. Under neath the brim on the opposite side is a double bow made of very wide satin ribbon of the fashionable peach-blossom tint. Popularity of Flowers. From the Millinery Trade Review. Every one seems agreed with respect to flowers. They will certainly be immensely worn this season, and, moreover, the list of flowers Is receiving Important addi tions. Probably one-shall see a good deal of cherry blossoms this spring, with or without admixture of fruit. The pearly white blossoms harmonize charmingly with tulle of the light golden brown? mardorie?the latest and one of the most charming colors at the present writing. A liat of this material wreathed with cherry blosscms and tassels of the flowers falling at the back?can anything be prettier? Cornflowers are also very prominently to the fore. They are produced In many shades of blue, now of a lavender shade, now tending toward mauve, as well as in purer tonee, and are usually employed to trim shapes of the same color. Knowsley Hall. From the London Chronicle. Knowsley Hall, where the king Is staying (not for the first time) as the guest of the noble head of the Stanleys, Is, some people say, the biggest private house in England: though there are other places, for example Wentworth, Lord Fltzwllllam's Yorkshire seat, which might dispute Its pre-eminence In that respect. Knowsley. at any rate, is certainly colossal?almost painfully so. Al No Sufferer from disease is doing all he can to recover, unless lie investigates the claims made for RADAM'S MI CROBE KILLER that it is a cure for all Blood and Chronic Diseases, including Catarrh, Consumption, Rheumatism, Bright's Disease and others usually considered hopeless. Extraordinary as they are, these claims have been established in a court of justice, by a score of sworn witnesses, while thousands of testi monials equally conclusive arc on file awaiting your examination. \\ rite or ask for convincing proof. Write for The Wm. Radnm Microbe Kill.-r Co., Free Book. 121 Prince St., New York, or Washington Office, Room 7, May Building, Till and E sts. n.w. Wm. F. Oullck. Manaper. AJAMSE WOMAN will try and preserve bor beauty. A tine head of hair Is one oI tht highest charms. Th# Imperial Hair Regenerator restored Gray Hair to lta natural color or make# Bieactied Hair any desired shads. It i? CLEAN. DUR. A.HLE and LASTINd, easily ap plied. detection Impossible and u absolutely harmless ONB AP. PLICATtON LASTS MOXTH8. Sample of hair colored and returned free. Correspondence confidential. Sola manufacturers and patentee*. Imperial Chem. Mf*. Co.. 135 W.23d 8t New York. Sold and applied by M. C. Wlielan, 1105 V St. H.W. I4?9> Ml St. N.W. lEMMWL SHI KT WAISTS. nih?G s,Din-14 LADIES' TAILOB. WALKING 6K1U 18. mm Now is the time your Sewing> Machine needsadjustment for mak> ing Spring and Summer garments. A postal card addreaaed to The singer Manufacturing" Company, your city, trill receive prompt and courteous attention. r Lustre the &reat?3t, | labor the least. I CLECTRq ^ SilverPolish silicon Brilliancy unsurpassed. Lustre that will last. Ask your groear. ??SrmcoN." 30 Cliff 5?re*t, New Tork Balsam SANITISSUE FRAG KANT, HEALING), PCHB. SRALKD BOXES ONLY TRN CT8. ALL DEALERS. ap!2-27t.H Toilet Paper. most every one of the owners of Knowsley seems to have thought It a sacred duty to add a bit on to it since Sir John Stanley married the heiress. Isabel de I.atham, Ave centuries ago. The first Earl of Derby built the two round towers for the entertainment of his stepson. King Henry VII. and the great balustraded front of red brick was added by the tenth earl. The Immense park Is as flat as a pancake, and no fewer than eleven lodges guard the various approaches to the house. SlUlcus?"I-lfe is full-of trials." "Cynicus?"Yes, but there ar? not half enough convictions."?Philadelphia Rec ord.