Evening star. [volume], April 30, 1904, Page 5, Image 23

About Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972

Image provided by: Library of Congress, Washington, DC

                
6H0ULDER AND SKIRT TRIMMINGS
EXTREMELY FRAGILE
Summer Gowns Follow Dainty
French Models.
SEEN AT THE FETES
NEW SHOULDER TRIMMINGS
THAT ARE IN FAVOR.
Short Jackets Show No Seams?New
Millinery Fea
tures.
Special Correspondence of The Evening Star.
NEW YORK, April 28, 1901.
Notwithstanding the fact that summer
styles yearly put In an appearance long be
fore this period, It is really the month of
May which decides them in Paris. Then
t'n? conventional coaching parade which
America knows is replaced by a splendid
pageant of fashion, which, with horns and
what not, likewise winds itself through
wooded ways.
The Avenue des Acacias, In the Bois de
Boulogne, Is the route chosen for this pro
cession, which Is gazed upon and applauded
by thousands. Every fair one tries to out
do her neighbor in point of costume, and
when some specially charming get-up Is
cheered somebody says: "Behold! a chef
d'oeuvre. This will live."
The extreme fragility ever expressed by
these early toilets often confounds the
spectator from over the seas, more used to
chill winds than balmy airs at this mo
ment. But the Parisian spring comes
early, and by the second week of May the
trees are generally likewise in their spring
clothes and the summer flowers have be
gun. So the thin silky gauzes and pale
voiles and bail-like designs?for flower fete
fashions are often elaborate to this degree
?do not seem out of place: and if to speak
truly, the belle Parislenne is a bit cold
J FEATURES OF SUMMER STYLES.
misty grays and opaline and sea tints, scar
let is a frequent note.
In Chiffon Voile.
One gown of exceptional beauty Is of chif
fon voile in this flashing tint. A blouse
waist and trimmed skirt composes the
model with sulphur-colored lace for the
yoke and under-sleeves. The tricorne hat
supplied for this toilet is of scarlet Pana
ma, with a saffron brim and pure white
roses, and the parasol is of white and saf
fron lace over red chiffon.
A detail remarked as a favorite one
with fashion was a shoulder trimming
shown by the bodice of this gown. Taking
the form of a sort of cape in folds, edged
by a band of lace, this shoulder covering
was repeated on other gowns in number
less other ways. One displayed a sort of
Puritan collar of magnificent lace placed
over chiffon and garnishee with black and
white spotted net.
Other yokes possessed a straight or shap
ed flounces fall, or a lace or chiffon sur
plice scarf, which crossed at the waist, but
whatever was the device the shoulder seam
was always hidden, or else elaborated with
all sorts of lengthening trimmings.
Delightfully Loose.
Another point extremely charming is the
absence of seaming in many of the short
jacket effects, which are seen in legions this
season. A thin silky crepe bolero, in burnt
ivory, had the sleeves and body portion cut
in one, or rather in two pieces, for the
halves met at the back. A delightful loose
ness was expressed by this trick, and sev
eral soft shades of brownish net composed
the rest of the toilet.
Violet and blue, strange as it may sound,
was the color scheme of a voile gown whose
! skirt displayed huge flowers and garlands
of chiffon and lace.
Not a single skirt of the whole of this
imported batch was untrimmed. Bach and
every one displayed a garnishing of some
sort, some mounting as high as the waist?
t narrow ruches of silk or net above frills.of
lace; wide folds put on to simulate tucks
and also headed in some way; and flounces
and insets and applications innumerable.
Then each and everry one fell in a way to
ravish the eye and distract the soul that
would copy it. and, though all seemed to be
very wide when the skirt was tried on. the
drop linings were observed to be carefully
fitted at the hips.
Skillful Fitting.
The seeming looseness of the bodices was
also deceiving, for never w re waist founda
tions more scrupulously adjusted than ntfw,
the long seam, running to the shoulder, at
present employed instead of the old bust
dart, making a great improvement in the
fit. The best skirt linings are shaped at
PARISIAN FLOWER FETE GOWNS
sometimes, her pride keeps her from show
ing It.
Year after jear the toilets which are de
Blgned for the Parisian fetes ties fleurs
arc reproduced for the American market.
This season is no exception to the rule, and
?Ince the dressiest of the new styles are
extravagantly picturesque some of these
gowns are adorably lovely.
Pretty Full Trains.
Taken en masse it is noticed that the
most effective skirts with these elegant
costumes train to some degree, and are
made to look only moderately full. The
prevailing bodice is in blouse form, and the
laces used are of the thinnest variety,
chantilly and lierre abounding over other
sorts. Among the novelty laces, employed
upon the silks especially, are some black
webs with figures in colors and various [
?potted and odd meshed nets, which are I
made up into narrow" ruches. More elabo
rate laces form blouses and bolero effects,
in combination with plain voiles and self
colored silks.
As to these materials, silks and toiles
? re mote numerous than other textures, h
numter showing colors exquisitely delicate
In some cases and rarely rich In others.
Matching parasols also accompany many
of the toilets. Hut where B?me of these
r ?eem unusually large, other? are very tiny,
1 being in sire and design exact replicas of
the carriage parasols used these many
years. The larger sorts and those of me
dium size are more numerous, and are often
j bewllderlngly furbelowed at the bottom.
I The hats, for there are fete des fleurs
hats, too, are both large and small; and
along with pale violets, cloud-like mauvea,
REPRODUCED FOR AMERICANS.
the back and front with folded pleats In
stead of the former stitched darts. The
apron gore is cut out very much at the
waist, so that" frequently the side breadths
can be drawn over the hips without full
ness. thus lessening bulk at a point where it
is important to appear sylph-like.
But no matter how sedulously the founda
tions are looked after, the new costumes
are expressive of too much fullne3s to suit
entirely any but slender figures. So those
inclined to embonpoint had batter s;e to It
that the dressmaker is not led into flight of
modish fancy, in the way of fussy sleeve3
and skirts aux volants.
For such figures, the Jupes with horizon
tal garnitures or s do pleits" are advised.
For ie bodice bolero effects are always
goou for thick figures, the gathered blouses
in airy textiles over which these are placed
being also slimming in tendency. Medlum
slied sleeves likewise aid in the good work.
Bolero Jackets.
But bolero effects will be worn by every
body, and more than one Imported gown
with such a detail will show a chiffon un
derwalst. Indeed, It is stated, a number of
the fine midsummer carriage and racing
frocks will be entirely of chiffon, with mar
velous finger manipulation of the same tex
ture for trimming.
A wonderful flower fete gown in shaded
violets and white Is trimmed with fuschla
fringes made In this way. The double
skirt, whose tunic Is slightly pointed at the
front and edged deeply with fringes, es
capes the ground all around. A pelerine
cape bordered in the same way hid all of
the bodice but the plain puffed sleeves,
which came barely to the elbow.
Delightfully coquettish accessories with
these tolletg
?traifht soarfs of ohlflon of flit, wjui
flounoe or lace borders. w^ ?lL ^
entirely for orhament, will be worn in
many ways, some rery low Ota tha afms,
others close about the throat, but all witn
aowns of matching elegance.
But coming to airy details?things which
fall gracefully and float behind you when
you walk?the furore for lace veils l? ?n
the Increase. Out of a doaen ?ow?r f?te
hats seen, five were veil draped, In Chan
tllly webs In beautiful tints.
For Country Wear.
With a "straw" raffla turban, massed
with purple and white cherries, a purple
veil was arranged to let down over the
face when wanted. Apple green, scarlet
and brown lace veils are also worn, though
very likely these will be employed chiefly
as hat trimmings here. At the races or
out of town they will not seem so con
spicuous, for It is really for such use the
colored veil has been designed.
Paradise plumes are also a feature or the
new millinery, and cherries hang tempting
ly from many a delightful headpiece.w.nll
The suggestion for this mothe is obvlou .
France grows wonderful cherries and Paris
sells them by the ton?black cherries, red
cherries, pink cherries. So these de'ocUihle
dainties In many other huea and s.zes as
big as plums, we are once more to wear
upon our heads.
are again in style
DAMES OF THE MIDDLE AGES
AND THEIR CHESTS.
Craze for Antique Furniture Has Res
urrected. the
Coffer.
Written for The Evening Star.
The feminine world Is again taking to the
use of stately and artistic coffers or chests_
The dames of the middle ages, who had
no convenient bureaus in which to store
their finery, were dependent upon the cof
fer. Some of thesa historic chests are
marvels of delicate carving, inlay work
and painting. The greatest artists of Italy
did not disdain to decorate these recep
tacles.
So valuable were some of the coffers that
a great lady was considered well dowered
if she received one on her marriage day.
It was placed in her chamber, with the
great bedstead and a stool or two, which
were the sole furnishings. Toward the
close of the eighteenth century coffers were
all but discarded. Until recently specimens
were to be found only in the museums or
old castles and manor houses of Europe.
Now the taste for antique furniture is
bringing the coffers again into favor. Two
seen recently were made for the state
rooms of yachts. They are both carved
and tinted. .
One chest Is built of weathered oak, deep
ly carved and then stained in green and red.
The design represents mermaids sporting
in the midst of an ocean forest. Seaweeds
and shells are the most conspicuous fea
tures in the picture.
The other coffer is of oak, having a gray
finish. It is decorated with a burnt design.
Green and mauve stains are used to touch
up the figures. The subject of thesa decora
tions is a scene at the court of King Nep
tune.
Bed room coffers are usually adorned with
flowers, birds, buttei flies or some allegorical
or mythological scene. One small boudoir
chest has representations of Penelope
among her maidens upon its panels.
Through open windows the sprays of the
climbing roses are blown into the room and
the flowers with the garments of the wo
men are brilliantly colored.
Scriptural subjects were painted on some
of the antique chests, and thesa have been
well imitated by modern workmen. The
painted panel is set deep in the wood and
framed by a wide band of molding. Carved
figures, supporting the corners, aud elab
orately designed lids are features of the
painted chests.
Are Heavily Carved.
The most ancient designs are the heavily
carved ones. Those who are versed in the
history of furniture can tell to a nicety the
age of a chest by the style of carving and
quality of the wood. The earlier Renais
sance specimens are almost priceless, and
even copies of them are expensive. In ap
pearance they are not unlike a coffin. There
is usually a richly carved base, the long
shallow body above it being slightly curved.
The lid projects over the body, and is less
deeply cut than the sides.
A more modern Renaissance chest, and a
style which is more frequently copied, is
embellished with small panels, on which
appear conventionalized foliage des gns in
line work. The shading is burnt into the
wood. , . ,
Gilded and enameled coffers are also to be
seen, but they are eighteenth century work
and represent the period of decadence.
The modern household coffer is usually
lined with silk or an art fabric. Plenty of
tiny pockets are scattered over the lining,
and in these are placed sachets for perfum
ing the contents of the box. The chests
are convenient receptacles for linen, bed
clothes, draperies or garments not in use.
Those who can afford a csdar chest need
have no fear of moths. Although these or
namental boxes cost more than trunks, they
will last a lifetime. They are distinctly
decorative, and may be made to fit any
vacant niche in a small room. The price
varies with the style of decoration and
wood. Some are comparatively inexpen
sive while others, good imitations of the
carved antiq- e chest or the gilded and en
ameled eighteenth cantury masterpieces,
are valued as are most works of art.
FOR THE NURSERY.
Chintz Wall Paper and Bed Coverings
for a Child's Room.
Since men's colored bordered handker
chiefs have been manufactured purposely to
meet the demand of the craze for making
negliges and fancy work all sorts of new
ideas have been Invented for -their use
A dozen may be purchased for 40 cents,
and will be sufficient to make a little girl's
dress. The skirt should have a flounce of
the border cut circular by removing the
center and slashing the handkerchief from
one corner to the center. This will also
make a beautiful collar which will fall in
graceful points In the back, over the shoul
ders and In front.
Wall paper effects in chintzes are much
used In the modern nursery. A delightful
room recently seen had a deep frieze of pink
chintz which had water lilies and their
green leaves all over It. The upper third
was of dark green cartridge paper.
The bed hangings were also of the chintz
and were arranged on a hoop over the bed.
They were edged with a narrow, pale pink
guimp, as were also the curtains. The tiny
light willow rockers and chairs had down
cushions and pads covered with chintz,
which gave the nursery a summery appear
ance.
Another idea for nursery curtains which
pleases the children is the scrim which has
red and blue rampant lions all over the
white background. This sounds grotesque,
but the cloth Is really artistic and effective.
It is astonishing how much can be done
to make a window attractive. One of the
prettiest ideas for either the nursery, living
room or den is the use of transparent pic
tures. These transparencies can be made
by any photographer from views made by
the-amateur photographer, or from beau
tiful pictures.
Flower and landscape pictures are desira
ble, but in the matter of selection individual
taste has to be consulted. The transparen
cies are always framed to keep the pictures
from coming in contact with the window
panes in cold weather. A good size for
each picture is 8%x? inches.
A pretty idea which was carried out In a
model nursery was the use of Mother Goose
and Kate Greenway figures in transparen
cies. This window was always the center
of attraction to the little people, and It
kept them in the sunshine when they were
Indoors.
NEW PINCUSHIONS.
What is Shown for My I^ady's Dress
ing Case.
Written for The Evening Star.
Animal pincushions are seen upon the
up-to-date woman's dressing table. They
are made of velvet in appropriate colors,
and PtM-ueat all sarti ef (jualfit and home
ly beam*, si
One model is f white valvet rabbit With
firing enrs lined WMh paia pink ?ilk. He
hM tolnk betd? t* *yett and his llttM
mouth la outlined With embroidery eilfc, A
pale blue Bilk ribbofl With;* coquettish bow
decorates his fat neolr. Tha animal cushions
are stuffed with emery powder, whloh pre
serves the brightness of pins better than
mere sawdust. ? a
A pale pink velvet pig, with a handsomely
curled silk tall and yellow,'flase bead eyes,
Is best described as 'Jeute."Piggy's snout is
made conspicuous bp the?Jlttle grass ring
that runs through U. Ffpm this ring is
suspended a miniature basket for the re
ception of my lady"* ring*, when she lays
them aside for the #lghttJ
The animals' nonea^nd mouth* tire some
times embroidered, sometimes painted with
water colors. A hat iron.must be passed
over the back of that part of the velvet
to which the paint Uii to lie applied.
Pussy makes ft pretty -pincushion. She j
can be best represented In a sitting posi
tion. White, gray or black velvet are suit
able for her coat, yellow or light green
beads are appropriate for her eyes. The
mouth is merely outlined with embroidery
silk. Whiskers and eyebrows are put In
with linen thread, which Is stlfT enough
to allow them to stand out Jauntily.
Pusses neck should be beautified with a
collar and bow of ribbon. Her ears should
be ltned with deep pink silk.
A stately gray or sacred white elephant
serves both as pincushion and ring holder.
His back Is covered with a scarlet cloth,
gold embroidered, and bears an Imposing
howdah, into which the rings or small
pieces of Jewelry may be dropped.. If the
elephant Is large enough, the rings may be
slipped over his trunk.
A white velvet lamb, a brown velvet don
key, a black or brown velvet horse are
some of the forms In which these mascot
pincushions appear. They are sold ready
made In the shops, but the home fancy i
worker can secure a pattern for them by |
buying one of those for the making of toy
animals of chintz or calico. The paper pat
tern may be cut down to any size required.
As a rule, the pincushions are not more
than three to five Inches In height.
LACE-LINED BOUDOIRS
[a description of one of the
LATEST fads.
| New Designs in Bed Spread Covers
and Screens?How to
Make.
The fashionable woman's taste at pres
ent inclines to laces, chiffons and softly
flowing draperies. She Is not content to
avail herself of these effects for her gar
ments alone, but adopts them In furnishing
the nest In which she spends her hours of
ease. Elegant lace boudoir sets are of filet
lace, which is heavy and durable.
Society women thronged to inspect a col
lection of German hand-made linen filet
lace, a display of which recently closed in
Isew York. Peasants in the remote parts
of Germany make this lace in their homes,
the work being sent all over Europe by a
Berlin agency. This was the first im
portant exhibition of this German lace In
America, and included altogether new de
signs. Of these, perhaps the most strik
ing was a set consisting of bedspread,
dressing table set, small table cover, mats
and a splasher for the withstand.
The lace for thea spread was woven In
squares and oblongs, and then connected
by pieces of fine lace. A 'quaint feature of
the table cover, splasher and the bedspread
was that each of them represented a scene
in some biblical story.
On a table cover the sacrifice of Isaac
was neatly told In four scenes and inclosed
in a beautiful border of conventionalized
flowers. The romance of Ruth and Boaz,
In nine scenes, adorned the splasher, and
on a bedspread was detailed the domestic
history of King Ahasuerus and Queen Es
ther.
Against a gay silk lining "or undercover
these laces look like etchings in white and
colors. Sumptuous-as th?se laces look st
a distance, they resemble, nothing so much
as the finer quality of face In Nottingham
curtains. A fair - representation of these
expensive bedspreads could be made by
taking an old Nottingham curtain of good
quality, cutting it up Into squares, oblongs
and diamonds, and then uniting them
smoothly at the edges with pieces of fine
scrim or linen.
The Bedspread.
Care must be taken that each section of
lace forms a complete picture. In put
ting the ledspread together harmony
must be observed in Joining the different
pieces. For instance, the central bit may
be a large lace diamond. Squares of lace
se' diagonally to the center should then be
interspersed with squares of plain material.
Outside these may come a border of lace or
of lace and plain material combined.
The darned net lace work once so popular
affords the only means of Imitating the fig
ure work, for, unfortunately, only conven
tionalized flowers and geometrical designs
adorn lace curtains. While at close range
the darned net does not at all resemble the
filet lace, at a considerable distance the
lack of similarity is not so striking.
Even screen covers are fashioned of tlrs
heavy old lace, the Intention of the de
signer being to provide something orna
mental rather than useful, although with a
backing of some thick silk or bright crepe
the screen is made both beautiful and eltec
tlve.
Hats of Hair and Lace.
From the MUllnery Trade Review.
Owing to the delay occasioned by the
strike, the selections of straw braids and
shapes are only now beginning to be in any
way complete, and the output still falls
short of present requirements in point of
quantity. Among the lines to which Im
portant additions have latterly been made,
that of hair biaids may be specially noted.
These bi aids are best adapted, by reason of
their lightness, to enter into the ornamen
tation of hats with tulle and lace founda
tions. They are provided In most light col
ors. but more will be done in creamy and
other tinted whites, In champagne and
"send" shades than in positive tones. There
are also shapes woven entirely of lialr, as
if they had been executed with a big cro
chet hook. Such hair liats are semi-trans
parent, and are particularly applicable to
black and rather dark colors. Rice straws
and fine Tuscans are beginning to put in
an appearance. The former are shown in
pure white, in medium and rather dark
shades of color, and in black, the latter,
In their own natural, unbleached straw
tones. A novelty is in the market, which
may or not take here; namely, yedda straw,
with patterns, generally flowers or small
bouquets, printed upon them In soft colors.
Caring for the Old.
Fiom Harper'* Bazar.
One thing Is very hard for us to realize,
and that is that old people, though so
childlike in many ways?in Innocence, in
lovableness, often, too, In eager interest in
the activities going on about them?are not
at all childlike in one important particu
lar; they are not teachable. Nor is this
their fault, but the fault of old age itself,
of that hardening of the tissues of brain
and nerve which constitutes old age. The
spirit dwelling within may be gently meek
and full of humilUy and wisdom; but the
organism no longer nimbly responds. A
sort of. slow petrification is going on, and
although In noble natures this process re
sults in preservlng_.thoughts and feelings of
fernlike delieacy In imperishable beauty,
yet it does not lead itanlf to the reception
or ikw Impressions. The central growth
n.ay go on, and new ideas which harmonize
with the old may be received into the or
ganism, but surface things, such as daily
habits set beyond alteration.
The Queen of Queens.
S. E. KUer In the Chicago Record-Herald.
States rise and fall; tte (centered king*
Arrayed in royal robes today
Mast pass with other earthly things.
Their fame shall fade, their thrones decay.
But ooe proud quwn will always reign
And claim allegiance everywhere;
Her realm I* all of man'* domain,
Her throne the peaceful rocking chair.
Her prince'* bead lie* on her breast,
Her crown Is Jov, ber scepter love;
She reign* by right divine, expressed
Directly to her from *bove.
Though kings must pass, though nations wane.
The glad young mother, proud aud fair,
While men are men *hall sweetly reign.
Enthroned upon the rocking chair. .
DECORATIVE DANGERS
Troubles That Beset the Home
Dressmaker.
PRESERVE THE LINE8
NO MATTER HOW MANY SHIB
B.INGS AND TRIMMINGS.
The Best Fabrics to Choose for
Dressy Afternoon
Wear.
Written for The EYcnlnft Rtnr by Harriet llnwley.
This 1b the year when the home dress
maker will look well before she leaps, scis
sors In hand, into the folds of newly pur
chased fabric. Never has she been con
fronted with such subtle dangers of over
trimming. The patterns and designs look
simple with their bands of shirring, but
they often work out abominably under the
lrexpeilenced hand.
8hirrings. ruchings and flounces. In 1>#W
and for almost a decade longer, were
primarily designed to make the figure as
broad as possible, and the hoopskirt was
employed to help on the good work. But
in the year 1904 there must be shirrings,
ruchings and flounces without "bunchi
ness" and without roundness. How to pre
serve the slender, graceful lines of the fig
ure and still employ the fashionable styles
Ecru Messaline, With Novelty Braid,
Simulating Fagotting.
of trimming is the problem which must be
solved.
Naturally, the first aid is the wise selec
tion of materials. Certain fabrics lend
themselves particularly well to the prevail
ing modes of decoration, and it seems as if
manufacturers of woolen, silk and cotton
goods have foreseen this sartorial crisis.
The new voiles and etamines are more
si'.ky in their finish this year, and crumple
in the hand almost as readily as silk. These
ar? particularly valuable for fashioning
smartly trimmed afternoon costumes. The
best taste demands a silk drop skirt in self
tone, though the dashing woman still hun
gers for the drop skirt of contrasting but
harmonizing tone, such, as pale blue or yel
low with brown voile, pale green with helio
tiope, and so on.
Crepe de chine has never been in greater
demand than this season, since It lends
Itself well to shirring. It can be bought at
all prices, starting at 51) cents a yard, and
in various widths. It comes in ail the pop
ular day and evening shades, and invaria
bly calls for silk linings.
A Good Example.
It is one of the few materials which will
admit of the shirring in conventional de
signs which mark many of the imported
gowns. A frock from Paris, recently
shown at an opening, illustrates this fact.
The material is oyster-colored crepe de
chine, combined with lace medallions,
made over soft silk in self-tone. The skirt
is shirred at the waist to form a yoke,
which is short over the hips, deeply pointed
in the back and stops on either side of the
front, where the seams of the middle gore
would naturally come. This forms a semi
circle on the hips, and a plain panel for
the front gore, with plenty of fullness on
the sides and back.
Just below the knees there runs a band
of medallions, overlapping slightly, and be
low this comes two tiny shirred ruffles of
the crepe de chine. Then comes a four
lr.ch band of ornate shirring, la'd In the
form of hollow squares, with a medallion
set in each square, and below this are
three ruffles of shirred crepe de chine,
graduated so that the deepest is around
the foot of the skirt.
The bodice is tight-fitting in the back,
with shirrings tightly and smoothly laid on
the silk lining. A smooth-fitting yoke of
all-over lace to match the medallions has
a plain, tight-fitting collar, and is met by
the blouse proper, which is curved at the
upper edge in the form of half moons, cut
ting off the yoke at the shoulder line.
Elaborate Trimming.
At a distance of perhaps an inch these
half moons are outlined by shirrings in a
conventional design not unlike half a petal
of the lotus bloom, which, after following
the line of the half moon, run down in four
tiny shirrings to the waist line, tapering
almost to a point. Directly under the upper
curve of this shirred design is laid a medal
lion, which gives four shirred designs and
four medallions across the bust.
The lower half of the sleeve is formed
of tight-fitting shirrings. and the upper
half Is a voluminous puff, with a semi-cir
cular cap shirred tightly into the arm's
eye. and finished with a shaped ruffle, cov
ered with medallions. The girdle is pointed
and covered with all-over lace, and finished
with buttons in nouveau art.
Among silks, the re west favorite is mes
sailne, which resembles both India silk and
chiffon, and is most pliable and dainty for
the much-trimmed frock. It comes in all
the plain colors and can be combined with
lace or chiffon decorations.
A pretty nr>de for this fabric is illustrated
In a calling costume of champagne messa
line, in which handrun tucks, sharing and
a novelty braid showing champagne, pale
blue and gold, are combined.
A Tucked Yoke.
The skirt has a yoke of tucks running
around the hips, but cut by lengthwise
strips of the braid. The tucking forms a
point or V-shaped piece in the front gore,
and from this point, running around the
Bkirt, are eight or nine rows of shirring,
which gives the necessary fullness to the
garment. The skirt has a slight train, and
Is finished with three-inch-wide tucks.
The entire blouse is laid in hand-run
E
ORRINE CODES DRUNKENNESS.
PEOPLE'S MISSION,
910 Penn. Ave.
WAMlItfOTON, I>. O.. Fabrsary 3P. 190*.
Tb# Orrtne Co., Inc., Washington. D. C.
Gentlemen! It la very gratifying ln<k>* 1 for mo to report to jo\i that Orrine hu proven to toy
entire aatlafaction that It In a specific for flri?ki?iiiiw. A patent who bad been drinking abo?t
a pint of Whiskey a day for a great msny years waa completely cared within tea daya fn?ra the
time bo took the first dose of Orrine, ami ho Is now rwtond to perfect eobrlety, I aball bo flad
to bare yon refer an/ person to mo for a verification of thin etstoment.
1 hare no way of thanking /on for the g<*o?l j-ou have done and sm doing with Orrlno. which 1
am convinced la a euro for that terrlbla disease, drunkenness. Wishing you great succoas, I am,
youre very truly,
W. C. UcmOKlAKU
Superintendent People's Mbarton.
No Sanitarium Treatment or Publicity!
NO ABSENCE FROM IIOMB OR LOSS OF TIMKJ
Mothers, wives and sisters. yon cannot cure these who are afflicted with thfa most trrr bla of
nil disenses by your fervent prayers cr eyes red with tears, nor by your hope that th< y may stop
drinking. It can be dons only *lth OAD1XK. Yon have the remedy?will ycu us** It? If y( u de
sire to cure without the knowledge of ti e patleut, buy OltRlNE No. 1; If the patient d.-s ivs to
bo cured of bla own free will, buy ORRINE No. 2. Full directions In each package. PRICE. 91
PF.lt BOX.
SOLD AND RECOMMENDED BY
SIMMS', 14th and New York avc., Washington. DAY'S, 14th and P at*.. Washington.
WILLIAMS'. 9th and F sts., Washington. HENRY EVANS. 922 924 F st. n w.. Washington.
WELLER'S. 7*5 8tb at. i.e., Washington. F. P. WKLLER. ,1534 M st.. Washington.
E. S. LEADBEATEB & SONS. Alexandria. Va.
For free book?"Treatis? on Drunkenness and How to Cure It"?call on the sbove druggists or
write to
The Orrine Co., Inc., Washington, D. C.
CTWe will gladly furnish a treatment free of fwt to any physician to demonstrate that
Orrine 1? a positive apeclOc for drunkenness. X31
ALL CORRESPONDENCE CONFIDENTIAL.
Cure Effected or Money Refunded.
tucks, except the under arm pieces, and
the front has a design formed by bands of
the braid, which also outlines the arm's
eye and the collar. The sleeves are tucked
from arm's eye to elbow. and from elbow
to a narrow cuff at the wrist they fall In
a bishop puif. A pointed belt completes
the gown.
An ecru messaline combined with novelty
silk braid, simulating fagoting, is another
effective design.
The skirt tits snugly and plainly at the
waist line, and then three inches lower is
Inset a circular yoke, formed of the nov
elty braid set between double shirrincs of
the material. From this yoke the skirt
runs plain and simple in the regulation
seven gores to a deep flounce, which cotnes
almost to the knees and which Is the most
ornate feature of the costume.
Half Moons.
The flounce follows exactly the circular
lines of the yoke above It, forming immense
half moons or semi-circles, pointing down
ward This is built of the shirred messa
line. as described above in the yoke, with
the inset of novelty braid. In the dip or
center of each semi-circle is a square of the
novelty braid about three inches in diam
eter, and from the lower edge of the shlr
rings the flounce falls full and free to the
foot.
The blouse has a deep shirred yoke at
tached to a collar of the novelty braul,
and with a square of the braid inset in
the center. This yoke is outlined with a
band of the braid, which follows the bust
line straight over the upper part of the
sleeve, so that the arm's eye line is en
tirely lost. Two lines of shirring run be
low the braid, from which point the blouse,
inset with three blocks of braid, is gather
ed into a pointed belt of the braid, over
silk. The sleeve lias a deep cult of the
braid, and over this falls a puff, formed of
shirred silk, inset with braid.
It will be noted that all these designs
in shirring call for circular or pointed ef
fects. In no instance does the shirring
run straight around the body. The home
dressmaker should bear this fact in mind
as one of the saving graces?one of the
best remedies for "bunchiness." Still an
other warning is against the combination
of shirring and ruchings. Insets of lace
should go with the shirring.
Plenty Lace Used.
Insets of lace and quantities of inser
tion are employed with such fabrics as
batiste and organdy; and here, too, the
pointed or curved designs are employed
A dainty organdy showing pale pink rose
pinlieads has Valenciennes insertion run
ning in four rows around the skirt to out
line the flounce, and here graceful, wave
like curves are used, coming almost to a
point in the front, and rising in sweeping
curves upward on the back of the skirt.
The same wave-like design is employed in
the insertion of the blouse and the sleeves,
while a curved yoke and collar of solid in
sertion is Joined by shirrings to a shirred
upper sleeve, giving the long shoulder ef
fect.
An ecru voile, figured in brown crescents,
combines shirring and tucking. The skirt
has a slightly shirred yoke, and falls like
an overskirt over a shaped flounce of the
material. The bottom of the simulated
overskirt is cut in tabs, between which are
elaborate Insets of heavy ecru lace.
The blouse is a combination of eton and
bolero, tucked from the shoulders in groups
of three and cut out in tabs to match the
skirt. These tabs fall over a lingerie ruffle
of point d'esprlt and there Is a square col
lar of the lace.
The sleeves are cut In tabs at the elbow
to fall over a half sleeve of point d'esprit.
The crush girdle Is of soft brown silk to
match the crescent in the fabric.
Vogue of the Veil.
From the Millinery Trade Review.
I shall not venture as yet to pronounce an
opinion respecting the maintenance of the
present vogue for tulle and lace veils and
other pendent arrangements for the backs
of hata. It certainly has the favor of many
of the very best houses, but then It put in
an appearance rather early for a style
which ia to last out the entire season. Prob
ably the matter will depend chiefly on the
caprice or fancy of the leaders of Parisian
society. For the present, it Is extremely
well thought of. Needless to say that such
draperies assume a variety of forma. One
new method is to use a square lace veil for
the purpose, drawing it up into a width of
about four inches, and then attaching it to
the back of th? crown so that it falls
thence over the shoulders. Another is to
veil the whole hat with piece tulle, having a
large corner of the same hanging down the
back in unstudied folds.
A very pretty way of arranging a large
veil on a hat is to fasten It to the front of
the brim and then throw it back over the
crown and fasten up the folds with a gilt
pin so that the edged portion falls at tho
side raher far back. In this way is a cream
colored lace veil arranged on a white rice
straw hat lined with black straw. Under
neath the brim on the opposite side is a
double bow made of very wide satin ribbon
of the fashionable peach-blossom tint.
Popularity of Flowers.
From the Millinery Trade Review.
Every one seems agreed with respect to
flowers. They will certainly be immensely
worn this season, and, moreover, the list
of flowers Is receiving Important addi
tions. Probably one-shall see a good deal
of cherry blossoms this spring, with or
without admixture of fruit. The pearly
white blossoms harmonize charmingly
with tulle of the light golden brown?
mardorie?the latest and one of the most
charming colors at the present writing. A
liat of this material wreathed with cherry
blosscms and tassels of the flowers falling
at the back?can anything be prettier?
Cornflowers are also very prominently to
the fore. They are produced In many
shades of blue, now of a lavender shade,
now tending toward mauve, as well as in
purer tonee, and are usually employed to
trim shapes of the same color.
Knowsley Hall.
From the London Chronicle.
Knowsley Hall, where the king Is staying
(not for the first time) as the guest of the
noble head of the Stanleys, Is, some people
say, the biggest private house in England:
though there are other places, for example
Wentworth, Lord Fltzwllllam's Yorkshire
seat, which might dispute Its pre-eminence
In that respect. Knowsley. at any rate, is
certainly colossal?almost painfully so. Al
No Sufferer
from disease is doing all he can to
recover, unless lie investigates the
claims made for RADAM'S MI
CROBE KILLER that it is a cure
for all Blood and Chronic Diseases,
including Catarrh, Consumption,
Rheumatism, Bright's Disease and
others usually considered hopeless.
Extraordinary as they are, these
claims have been established in a
court of justice, by a score of sworn
witnesses, while thousands of testi
monials equally conclusive arc on
file awaiting your examination.
\\ rite or ask for convincing proof.
Write for The Wm. Radnm Microbe Kill.-r Co.,
Free Book. 121 Prince St., New York, or
Washington Office,
Room 7, May Building,
Till and E sts. n.w.
Wm. F. Oullck. Manaper.
AJAMSE WOMAN
will try and preserve bor beauty.
A tine head of hair Is one oI tht
highest charms. Th#
Imperial Hair
Regenerator
restored Gray Hair to lta natural
color or make# Bieactied Hair any
desired shads. It i? CLEAN. DUR.
A.HLE and LASTINd, easily ap
plied. detection Impossible and u
absolutely harmless ONB AP.
PLICATtON LASTS MOXTH8.
Sample of hair colored and returned
free. Correspondence confidential.
Sola manufacturers and patentee*.
Imperial Chem. Mf*. Co.. 135 W.23d 8t New York.
Sold and applied by
M. C. Wlielan, 1105 V St. H.W.
I4?9> Ml St. N.W.
lEMMWL
SHI KT
WAISTS.
nih?G s,Din-14
LADIES'
TAILOB.
WALKING
6K1U 18.
mm
Now is the time your Sewing>
Machine needsadjustment for mak>
ing Spring and Summer garments.
A postal card addreaaed to The singer
Manufacturing" Company, your city, trill
receive prompt and courteous attention.
r Lustre the &reat?3t, |
labor the least. I
CLECTRq
^ SilverPolish
silicon
Brilliancy unsurpassed.
Lustre that will last.
Ask your groear.
??SrmcoN." 30 Cliff 5?re*t, New Tork
Balsam
SANITISSUE
FRAG KANT, HEALING), PCHB.
SRALKD
BOXES
ONLY
TRN
CT8.
ALL
DEALERS.
ap!2-27t.H
Toilet Paper.
most every one of the owners of Knowsley
seems to have thought It a sacred duty to
add a bit on to it since Sir John Stanley
married the heiress. Isabel de I.atham, Ave
centuries ago. The first Earl of Derby built
the two round towers for the entertainment
of his stepson. King Henry VII. and the
great balustraded front of red brick was
added by the tenth earl. The Immense park
Is as flat as a pancake, and no fewer than
eleven lodges guard the various approaches
to the house.
SlUlcus?"I-lfe is full-of trials."
"Cynicus?"Yes, but there ar? not half
enough convictions."?Philadelphia Rec
ord.