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Special Correspondence of The KvetilnR Star. PARIS. June 25. 10iM. This fair city is packed with tourists, who (warm along tho boulevards. (Ill the fau teuils at the Alcazar, tho Foiies ISergere and other theaters romiquc and crowd tho Louvro . doing the galleries until they look ill and teady to drop in their tracks with fatigue. At this storehouse of art I cam across the other day an American "poppa" and his daughters, evidently on th' ir iirst "grand lour" and bored to extinction by the objects surrounding them. So apparent was their lack of Interest that even the guide's professional enthusiasm was lost in a de costume concert given by Mme. Emma 1 Nevada for'a popular charity. The origi nality of the performance was In the act ing and singing In costume rif the second act of "Higoletto" and the last act of "Homeo and Juliet." The programs were distributed by girls dressed In medieval costumes, and boys were attired as pages of the same epoch. All Paris turned out yesterday to see the distribution of awards at the pet dog show. To be the owner of a really good canine specimen is the ambition of the smart Pa risian inondalne. and the French kennel committee hit upon a fine scheme when they made it a rule that the owners of prize dogs and not their mcrtds should hold the animals when the medals are pre sented. Consequently, when the judges gave the awards, the terrace of the Tuil erles was a mass of color, owing to the ex I qulslte toilets worn by the women. This gathering of femininity was a splendid ob ject lesson In sartorial science, especially that important branch of "how and when to wear a costume." The crowd at the kennel show, of course, was cosmopolitan, but it was an easy matter to distinguish the grande dame, who wore her clothes gracefully and easily, from the woman elaborately gowned by a celebrity in the dressmaking world attracting attention merely by her fine feathers. A particularly pretty and cool-looking toilet worn by an Interesting woman was in pearl gray light-weight cloth, which, by the way. is a very popular shade this sea son. with her long, box-plaited skirt of gray she wore a blouse of sheer white mus | lin embroidered down each side of the front, which fastened Invisibly. A joke now an unmistakable pressing down of the flat line. In the fall we shall doubtless find our pinions once more closely defined. Meanwhile we can make the most of the present picturesque fullness. Light and Effective. This year dress Is much lighter, brighter and more effective than ever, and In the dainty thin fabrics the magnificence of de tail and extravagance or hand work are mar velous. When I try to describe one of these confections I feel like a man in a millinery plight, and the proper terms fall me. The trimmings on the muslin frocks alone are wonderful. They run In Intricate rambllngs of lacy frills or in rings to form a rosette motif, the entire decorative scheme giving to a gown a suggestion of life and movement. Valenciennes lace this season, which is so much used on gowns, Is really beautiful?I mean the machine-made sort, which now comes in the five-Inch depth and does away with any hint of lingerie trim ming the narrow variety was apt to con vey. It was a fascinating and frank egotist, I think, who said she devoted herself heart and soul for two weeks to the frivolities of dress and never gave the subject another thought for six months, but I am sure the season's tub dresses alone would take the summer girl more than two weeks to de sign. Spotted Muslins. There has been so little distinction lately between summer and winter materials that muslin, both plain and embroidered, has become the only fabric that does not flour ish at all seasons. Spotted muslins are es pecially attractive, and at the Rlti at B o'clock tea the other afternoon were two stunningly gowned girls sipping their oolong, one weal ing a simple but chic frock of grass muslin ring spotted with black. The trimming consisted of crossed puffings of the muslin ending in choux of black vel vet ribbon, the quaint pelerine being fin ished in the same manner. The success of the ensemble was further heightened by a black straw chapeau, the crown encircled by a ruche of tulle, with a panache of black ostrich feathers at the left side. The other girl's dress was a farming affair of blue and mauve tafTeta trimmed with boulllon nees of the silk. The bolero was worn over a lawn and lace shirt. A bunch of La FOUR PARISIAN OUTDOOR GOWNS. pressed, though persistent effort to try to make til em look at what he considered goms, while they as persistently turned their eyes In another direction. Finally "poppa" stopped in front of a painting of a woman whose abundant hair was the mantle that enveloped her most, with the remark. "It's a pity she didn't cover herself up a bit." A man was copy ing this celebrated picture at the tima* and the American paused to look at tl a copy. "I guess H 1 had my choice I'd take the new one; It iooks cleaner." was his criticism. At this point the guide threw up all idea of ar tistic responsibility, and after a few more unsatisfactory views "poppa" could stand tiie strain no longer and brought the trip t*? n do* ? b> ejaculating: "1 say. girls, let's go back Lome to lunch. I'm sick of pic ture s " It is v* ry amusing the way different na tionalities take tl ir touring experiences? the thoroughness, for instance, of the Ger man. t!.? indiffen-neo of the English an 1 the boi'tiom of the American. But to the l'..ris a life just now se?ms to he a per petual lete and a r ice for pleasure. The smart mondaines will in consequence re main n the b. tuiiful and brilliant city of lights later th;-?n usual this season. In every M^pect it has been one of the most 6iicces-a.il seasons. both socially and ar tistically. experienced at the capital for many >ears. At a Charity Concert. A conspicuous artistic success was the of "val" lace and fine Swiss insertion out lined the shoulders without a hint of the is;iu droop. The muslin sleeves were fin ished with narrow, turned-back suffs of lace. Her fresh-looking hat waa a black chip wreathed with green leaves. As she put on her little plaited cloth bolero with pagoda sleeves, cape and a jabot of green and white embroidery, and started to leave the show, every woman within sight in wardly said, "How nice she looks!" ; Old Color With New Name. Another dainty tailor-made creation was of faded blotting paper pink. The skirt hung in flat, stitched plaits from an em piecement. and the very short jacket reached to a leather belt of a deeper tone of pink. This jacket opened over a chemi sette of medaria embroidery mounted over pink The becoming and summery hat was a large white straw trimmed with almond green velvet ribbon and a bunch of white roses. A distinctive feature of many of the gowns was the Henri II lace sleeve. These manches are formed of puffs banded and beautified with perky little bows, and often finished with a cavalier cuff of silk. A Henri 11 sleeve Is a host in Itself, and a gown so adorned needs very little else as trimming. The bouffant ptifT arranged with lace frills under a curtailed bell shaped sleeve is another favorite summer design The hour, however, is not far dis tant when we shall say farewell to these pretty arm coverings, and there Is even A USEFUL LINEN SKIRT AND COAT COSTUME. France roses at the belt added a truly Pa risian air of coquetry to the costume. A quaint and rather unusual muslin frock is one of cream In a pin-spotted design. The skirt is gathered and trimmed at intervals with plaited muslin ruffles, edged with tiny ruchlngs of blue baby ribbon. The Inser tions become fuller and nearer together as they reach ihe feet, and when the skirt swishes and swirls around one will catch glimpses of a much befrilled blue taffeta petticoat. The bodice, which fastens at the back, has a deep yoke of Irish lace, lined with chiffon and beautifully adorned with a scroll pattern of plaited muslin edged with blue bebe ribbon. The elbow sleeves terminate in plaited ruffles. A large pic ture hat of leghorn trimmed with black vel vet .and a single enormous pink rose and its foliage are to be the accompanying head gear. With the costume is carried a gath ered black chiffon parasol lined with pale pink. A Patchwork Gown. Among half a dozen patchwork gowns, smart In their way, but very elaborate, this dainty pure white lawn stands out con spicuous by reason of its simplicity. The flowing skirt, finished with three deep tucks, is shirred at the waist and falls evenly to the ground over an underskirt of ruffled muslin. The high-waisted bodice is girdled by a pointed band of rose chiffon ve lours, and the St. Cecilia neck is outlined by a piece of pink chiffon embroidery. An important point to consider is the gir dle worn with the airy, fairy frock.- If the material is plain one of the changeable silk or pompadour messaline ceintures en hances the artistic value of a dress scheme, but when the fabric is llowered a solid color in sash or corselet should be worn. With a creamy muslin, for instance, a belt | of an opalescent tone, produced by green and pink, is a charming effect. The skirts of these dainty dresses cause a great deal of anxiety in their construction and adorn ment. There are tucks, deep and narrow, and insertions of lace used in conjunction and as separate motifs. The gathered skirt and the three-decker are very acceptable for women who object to fullness about the waist. This triple jupe does not fall from a common foundation, but is joined to fall one part from the other. When one thinks-of all these alluring summer gowns it becomes doubly difficult to make one's allowance "do." Our dress makers tell us, and truthfully, that the dresses we order take three times as long to make, have three times the amount of material in them and three times the num | ber of hands are employed to work upon them. So how can they be even compara tively cheap? The women who must have the "latest" run up long bills (which In many cases are never paid), and those who have a little conscience concerning a milli ner's bill are overcharged in order to cover the bad debts. But it won't do to take these matters too seriously, for some of us might be tempted to have gowns "run up 1 at home by a little woman with a sewing machine," and imagine the end thereof! CATHERINE TALBOT. Hints for Washing Day. Try washing red table linen in water In which a little borax has been dissolved. Add a few drops of ammonia to the blue water to whiten the clothes. Clothes turned right side out, carefully folded and sprinkled are half Ironed. Wet fruit stains with alcohol or pour boil ing water "through them. Kerosene in the boiling water whitens clothes safely, especially such as are yellow from lying away. Put a tablespoonful to each gallon of suds. For very yellow or grimy things make an emulsion of kerosene, clear limewater and turpentine In equal parts. Shake them together until creamy, then add a cupful to a boilerful of clothes and boll for half an hour. Modern Education. From the New Yorker. First passenger?"Well, thank goodness, my children have finished their education, and are ready to start out in the world. They can swim, bike, golf and play lawn tennis; they are well up In bookkeeping, smart shorthand writers, and good typists; they can play a good hand at bridge, smoke moderately and drink very little." Second passenger ?."Are thsy boys or girls T" ?TT THE QUEST OF BEAUTY T * i What Should Be Found on an Ideal Toilet Table. i? NECESSARY ARTICLES iV ;. * - GOOD RECIPES SUGGESTED FOB VARIOUS NEEDS. Requirements if One is to Be Her Own Manicurist?Complex ion Hints. Written for Tlie Evening Star by Katherlne Morton. The truly dainty woman knows that dain tiness is more than skin deep. A slouchy woman goes forth in her paint a too ra diant vision; but her toilet table (fives her away. It Is covered with a soiled scarf. Its sliver-topped Jars are tarnished. Its powder box lies oprn, letting in the dust; the sign of the slo\on Is written all over it. There Is nothing more adorably femi nine than the well-appointed, well-kept dresser. The woman who really loves daintiness for its own delicious sake, not for the mere parade of it, can be told by her dresses as far as you can see It. Even the dainty actress has a pretty dresser, and her life makes it more diffi cult for her to keep small belongings In order than for any one else. Traveling Is a more or less disorderly matter, but no matter how much she may be on the road, you will always find her cold creams, toilet waters and perfumes displayed in an at tractive manner wherever it is her fortune to put up for even on& night. The dressing table may be made an af fair of lavish luxury. There are even tur quoise-studded gold utensils. But there Is no need of extravagance if one would be dainty. A little thought and a little pains taking will make your inexpensive dresser the most attractive piece of furniture in your home. Neither is it necessary that the cosmetics should cost a small fortune, although a woman may spend almost any amount on some of the French preparations. Many of these which cost so much, largely because of our national tradition that the French know things we cannot learn, are put up by simple formulas which we can handle with the greatest ease and at a modest outlay of money. Be your own chemist and have an array of harmless and agreeablo creams and waters which you know to be pure, because you know every ingredient in them. In the first place, have several scarfs for the dresser, so that you can change them frequently. If you are gifted as a needle-woman, these may be adorned with many pretty stitches in drawn work or the popular cros^-stitc.h- If not. remem ber that cleanliness is more than adorn ment. As to the utensils. Nowadays, small silver-topped jar* carr; be had for a very small price, and these, especially If aug mented by silver comb, brush and mirror, make a dresser beautiful. They must be polished frequently with silver polish. If you cannot haVe ttiom you can have a pretty table without them. For your creams, save evvry trim little jar which finds its way ihto yftur house. Some of the fancy cheeses lire put up in these jars. Scald then* ? thoroughly, rub off the paper labels, and you will have very tidy jars for your skin food and the like. This is only a hint; your own ingenuity will sug gest all sorts of devises for the toilet utensils. ^ip Salve. Everybody needs, a lip salve for occa sional use. Mix your own as follows: Lip Salve?Spermaceti. . otmce; wblte wax, Yt. ou^ce; flHut jot bCnzOin, 15 grains; oil of almonds. V2 ounce.. Melt together in a jar placed in a pan.^pf boiling water. When melted stir' until cool. Color red with alkanet root. This may be assigned to one of the small est jars, as you will not often need it. Con stant use of a salve makes the lips ten der But a reliable face cream should be in constant use except during very hot weather, when it will be found that the perspiration will keep the skin soft and oily enough without artificial aid. Cold Cream?Oil of sweet almonds, 1 pint; white wax. 1 ounce; spermaceti, H ounce; rose water, pint. Beat the In gredients to a paste. A portly bottle of wholesome, home-made cologne used to stand upon your grand mother's mahogany bureau, and it may well stand upon your modern one. Never use it on your handkerchief, but have a cloth with'which to apply it to the face occasionally when the skin is oily. A .ew drops in the bath ji|;e stimulating and deli Cotogne.?Alcohol (00 per cent), 1 gallon: qII Qf orange 1 ounce; oil of borgamot, 1 ounce; oil of 'cedrat. 2 drams; oil of rose mary 1 dram; oil of neroll, 1 dram. Mix thoroughly. The receipt is as generous as it is old-fashioned, and you may prefer to reduce the quantity. The powder box must be filled with a carefully chosen powder. A cheap make of face powder will ruin the skin, stop ping the pores and darkening them. I thoroughly Indorse the use of powder by any woman whose skin tends to oiliness, but she must make it a mMter of religion to wash every particle of it off at night, and she must apply it In a strong light, otherwise she inny &o forth into the bright day unconsciously bearing a likeness to a clown. ^ Face Powder.?Powdered arrowroot, 1 ourC6; powdered oieate of zinc, % ounce, oil of roses, 3 drops. Sift the mixture through the finest bolting cloth. Use Properly. Perfumes are so much more abused than properly used that It is with fear and trembling I give formulas for them. The over-use of badly made perfumes has caused many people of fastidious taste to renounce .them altogether and declare that the odor of soap and water is quite enough for them. But the faintest hint of the most delicate perfume Is delicious to any one not foolishly prejudiced, and from the follow ing you may choose your favorite flower and have its fragrance on hand all the year around. Use a mere drop on your handkerchief or use an atomizer. A drop placed on the lining of your cardcase or your stationery box will last for a long time, giving a faint hint of perfume to your note paper and crfrds. Lily of the Valley.?Extract of tuberose, ; 4 ounces; extract 0* .rose, 2 ounces; ex tract of cassia, bounces; extract of vanilla, 1% ounces; extract Of orange flower. 1 ounce; extract o$ jasmine, ounces; oil of bitter almonds, 1 drop. Mix and bottle for a month before using Rose.?Finest sitnple esprit de rose, 1 pint; cssence of rose g^rafii1*"!, V4 fluid dram; es sence of ambergris 'n fluid dram. Violet Water.?jfteutlfied spirits, 1 imperial quart; florentine,?rri? root (in coarse pow der). 1^4 pounds.. ? ) Put the orris i;?ot under pressure to ex tract Its perfume. Let the mixture stand at least two Wfflks. Filter several times through Altering.,which your drug gist will furnish, . . Carnation.?Ex'tractiof rose, 6 ounces; ex tract of acacia ?l?>wert 3 ounces; extract of orange flower, 3 ounces; extract of vanilla, 5C grams; extraeJC of .gloves, 10 drops. For the care of the hands you must have orange wood sticks, a file, an emory board and nail scissors. There should be at least two buffers, one for applying the paste and one for the powder and final polishing. Rose Paste for Nails.?Oil of almonds, 12 ounces; alkanet root. 2 ouuees; spermaceti, ounces; wblte wax, i> drams. Melt in a hot water bath. Strain and beat adding 1 dram attar of rose -when nearly cold. Powder for Nails.?Pure oxide of zinc. 1 ounce; camlne (No. 40), enough to tint pink. Perfume faintly with oil of orange. A delightful toilet water, which you can prepare for yourself, is to be used In the bath. It is made as follows: Bath Water.?Cologne water, 2 ounces; tincture benzoin. 1% ounces; tincture cam phor, 1 ounce. It is better to keep ail the perfumes and toilet water in glass stoppered bottles. If you make use of those that have had per fumes in them before, scald them thor | 0lBy'the Ubm your dre*er is fitted out with the above toilet requisites, and any others that your Individual needs call for, you will have luxuries that the woman of wealth cannot Improve upon. Now that you have them, enjoy them. Give yourself plenty of time every day to use all the beautiflers that you need. The harder your dally Is, the more you need these luxuries. They may be more Important to you than the necessities. Useful Suggestions. If you live wholesomely the complexion will take care of Itself. Pimples disappear of themselves as one grows older. Hot water face baths and rubs at night will hasten their going. Dumb bells are the best form of exercise for developing the bust. Fattening foods are sweets, chocolate, cereals, milk, eggs, butter, cheese and fatty meats. Bananas are good. Dash the bust with cold water in the morning and massage It gently with sweet oil at night. Buy a bottle of lime water at your drug gist's and take a tablespoonful after each meal to sweeten the breath. This is much better than perfumed tablets, as It is get ting at the root of the matter. Are you quite sure that your teeth are in perfect condition? To clear the voice beat the white of an egg, add the strained Juice of a lemon and take a teaspoonfui of the mixture fre quently. If a simple remedy like this does not help you you had better cansillt a throat specialist. To reduce the double chin try the neck exercises that have been given In this de partment occasionally. For the Bands try simple exercises such as piano teachers rec ommend. Cl.isping and unclasping the fists rapidly Is beneficial. But If you have a ten dency to general plumpness you must take all-round exercise and avoid fattening foods. Reduce the waist measure by mat work. PICNIC LUXURIES A NEW LUNCH BASKET AND ITS CONVENIENCES. Some Hints on the Use of Paraf flne Paper? Portable Chairs. One of the extravagances of the summer season Is the picnic basket, or case, which is dainty enough to rob the al fresco meal of all its horrors for even the most prosaic mortal. These baskets are fitted up for two, six, or twelve people, and are made to order for twenty-four people. They range in price from two to ninety dollars and shopkeepers report a heavier sale in the more expensive :ases, simply because people who want this sort of thing at all do not quibble over prices. The baskets are oblong, not very high, and ire made of wickcr lnteriined to prevent the passage of dust. The cases Intended for use by both men and women contalD this equip ment: A square platter In blue and white china, as light as enamle ware, but very strong. Plates, knives, forks, spoons, a iittle butter lar labeled and encased in wicker. Sait and pepper in the same sort of cases. A square box for sandwiches largo enough to hold a loaf of bread, and a square china dish en cased In nickel for salads or made dishes, Pke a meat ioaf. Fringed napkins to match ;he china, cups in the china or in metal with handles that fold back out of the way, a sugar box, a matchbox, two wicker-covered hasks and a strap for fastening the basket to an r.utomobile or carriage. When a party of women go out alone. they carry what is known '.3 the tea basket, which contains a teapot, tea-ketUc, alcohol lamp an 1 stand, all in one piece, a sandwich box, cups, plates, matchbox and a Jar for a relish. . , . Picnic lanterns, not unlike the old-fash ioned barn lantern, but more prettily fin ished. are rather useful when tiie outdoor meal Is eaten at a late hour in the woods. There is always a commotion when the basket is to l>e repacked, and .then the lan tern fulfills its mission. The picnic stick looks like an ordinary cane, rather thick at the top. Stick it in the ground, touch a spring, and the top folds back and forms in a little campstool. For clambakes or beach picnics, the sand chair is extremely useful It is exactly like a steamer chair without legs, and is bulit from strong canvas. It is particularly grateful to any one who cannot sit on the damp sand with impunity. A Walking Stick. A new and compact campstool looks like a heavy, thick walking stick. It unfolds Into four legs, which cross and support two stout strips of canvas forming the seat. It is much lighter and simpler than the old-fashioned campstool. When an old-fashioned picnic basket is used, pretty paper napkins are preferable to the old table linen usually delegated for such purposes. Big sheets of white wrap ping paper are much nicer for covering picnic tables than half-worn tablecloths. Both paper napkins and wrapping paper can be thrown away, and there is nothing more unpleasant than unpacking soiled linen on the return from a picnic. Parafflne paper, such as Is used for wrap ping caramels, is the best thing for wrap ping sandwiches, cakes, etc.: and boxes in which deviled eggs, meat loaf, etc., are packed should be first lined with parafflne paper. Women and Literature. From Harper's Bazar. There Is at least a difference of opinion in regard to the alleged distaste of women for severe and systematic reading. One critic in the National Review asserts that neither for pleasure nor on principle do they study books which could cultivate their minds and give them broad and stable dews of life. Another makes the comfort iik statement that the good. or. as they ire called the ?solid," books taken by women from the English circulating libra ries are in the proportion of two to five?a ircry creditable average. M. Ernest Quen tin Bauchart has shown us, in "Les fem ales Bibliophiles," that many rare and beautiful volumes were for two centuries ?ollected and treasured by French women, from Margaret of Valois to Marie Antoi nette How far the pleasures of a col lector merge into the pleasures of a stu lent is always a delicate point to decide, but Andrew Lang is of the opinion that some of these women loved their libraries ?ven to the reading point. "Books and Lrt " he says, with happy tolerance, "were probably more to Mme. de Pompadour s liking than the diversions by which she jeiruiled the tedium of Louis XV; and many l time she would rather have been quiet with her plays and novels than engaged in -onscientiously conducted but distasteful revels " La Duchesse de Montpensier? ?La Grande Mademoiselle"?liked only se ries and scholarly books. The frivolous unes, she used to say, wearied and plagued Ker La Grande Mademoiselle was by no means the wisest of women, but the choice ioes credit to her taste for an\us'?m,e"t< The romances of her age were a shade less ilvertlng than mathematics. Bernhardt's Skin Tonic. Sarah Bernhardt, who is well known for her perennial youthfulness, attributes the seeming miracle entirely to a special skin tonic which she favors. This eau sedative Is said to have the effect of making the flesh Arm and elastic, while strengthening and whitening the skin and soothing the terrible "nerves" to which our twentieth century womanhood seems a ready prey. The recipe for the lotion Is as follows: Half a pint of alcohol, two ounces of spirits of camphor, two ounces of spirits of ammonia and five ounces of sea salt, to be added to sufficient boiling water to make a <juart In all when the mixture should be placed In a bottle and thoroughly shaken before use. This lotion, which should be well rubbed In to the skin daily, is said to be especially efficacious In taking the fatigue out of tired muscles. Tax on Fat. From the Brltlah Medical Journal. As luxuries should be taxed rather than necessaries, a superfluity of fat. which ia mostly the result of luxurious living, may not unfairly be regarded as a nttfaw^gffct of taxation. One muntelP*Ut? ln already taxes superfluity ?t fax A DOWAGER SEASON Fashion Seems Just Right for Elderly Women. MATERIALS ARE RICH PRESENT - DAT WRAPS MAKE YOUNG LOOK OLD. Summer Blouses and Shirt Waists Are Becoming With Gray Hair, Too. Written for The KTeniQg^St.r by Kitberine An This year the dowager may?enjoya sar rr?:rr,r rsriK mothers and "re^ic?rAbllIldlIlB that U To^hruT thlre'are ten which add years to ^:.rn.r ""in athe matter of -weaves the dowager has a bewildering array spread before er The white linens, shot with black or trimmed with embroidered bands ex above reproach for black voiles, shot with white, may > o. . ?riv?linK frowns. All made Into drossy traveling k the colored veilings cling well to the fig ,ire ?nd nuC ,hendowager has the'Held out. in silks the dowager h:1Ne almost to herself, for the gia o a way of mak.ng the g rl who, * f ^ look young acquire a year P aelPl.t most girlish colo^n?s s)]k, the ?,nall ssr^ ." yeinFSthe effort to secure nualntnossjn ^"attU tones In glace taffetas And aunties, other weaves, suggesting a thread of metal in the wool distract the woman of moderate p who Ts torn between the desire to possess dainty garments and yet to maintain her dignity In dressing. Plenty Variety. For afternoon frocks there are exquisite colorings in crepe de chine, veiling, silks, batistes, organdies and lawns, far moved from the wee, prim models once considered the only things suitable for the woman past her prime. For evening wear there is an equally large range of weaves, from almost transparent grena dines? with satin figures, dots or stripes to all-over lace robes, that are not nearlj so expensive as the inexperienced shop per might imagine. There is nothing more serviceable foi a summer dinner or evening dress than one of the black silk nets, or a dotted net for which a woman may have a variety of silk Slips and an equal variety of berthas, tuck ers. fichus, etc. When selecting the drop skirt and w.iist lining for a net dress the middle-aged wo man is not confined to white and lavend.r. for there are silvery greens, blues and pinks that are none too gay for the woman of forty-five. With a bertha of real lace, or one of the less expensive berthas of re pousse or point de venise, a simple black net becomes an elegant and dignified con fection. . ^ -i,!-* Wlien the net Is worn over a drop skirt and lining of white taffeta it is not un usual to see a bertha of fichu effect evolved frcSn a combination of white and black lace, black Chantllly being used over * heavier cream or pure white lace; or a silk lace, like black Spanish, being draped over ac cordion-plaited white lisse. Organdies and printed chiffons for even in"' wear show such delicate colorings t.iat. with plenty of white lace, they can be worn by women well advanced In years. Provided colored ribbons and girdles are avoided. For Smart Occasions. An organdv costume sent out by a smart eastern shop for a Newport dowager shows a pale yellow rose pattern on a white ground. The skirt is shirred on the sides , . Inok leaving the front gore phfin1 with the 'effect of a panel outlined on either side by three rows of exquisite Valenciennes Insertion. The latter turns 7 ?? ohnvp the hem and runs entirely round the full 1K?) skirt. The blouse oloses surplice fashion in the front, w'U1 tucker of pure white organdy tucking, SEWS JZU rsSSS7JK7? s sv?r; mTheaUhat to bo worn with this simple iJt expensive frock is a large toque of white lace falling over a brim massed with vellow roses. Willie this gown could be worn appropriately by a debutante. It is equally suitable and really more becoming 1 ?TheseCexpens?ve French organdies, with their exquisite coloring, are reproduced in the cheaper materials, such as batiste and lawn, and can be made up with a good quality of imitation Valenciennes to give almost as satisfactory an effect as th<' real pompadour organelles. For the silk shirt-waist suit there Is noth inb more practical than the small check or the lialr stripe. Piping and cording are not much used this summer, but stitched bands and straps, embroidered bands In harmonious tints, and coarse laces ar? much treed In trimming the Indispensable shirt waist suit. For Cool Days. There is nothing more effective than ? voile or etamlne dress for a cool-day frock. Here, again, tho dowager has the b?w< ot It. Vflllng Is es!?ent!ally a dignified fab ric. and. If properly draped, gives h'ight and an "air." The woman whose figure Is no longer slender should avoid quantities of shirring, but If she must Indulge her fancy In this direction there Is a fan-model skirt which will give her some leeway. Hetween each of the seven gores. Just below the tup, a shirred piece Is Inset, starting a* a pin point width and widening gradually until It re-aches the knee. wh<*re It is perhaps two Inches and a half wide. From this point the skirt flares out broadly, giving almost the effect of a flounce. There are about <en or twelve shlrrlngs l?etween the hip and the knee, each finished with a fancy tailored stitch. No other trlm:ning Is used on the skirt, and It is one of the most graceful effects seen this Htrwin This pattern, made up In gray etamlne. had a blouse In which the etsmtne was combined with glace silk and embroidered chiffon, all of the same tone. The etamine appeared only In a suggestion of a bolero, the blouse proper being of tucked Klace silk. The undersleeves and vest of the chiffon showed severaj shades of embrold cry. with a flash of stiver A toque of gray chiffon and lace straw, draped with white lace clouding over blush roses, would tempt a bit of pink coloring into the cheeks of a woman of fifty. The Distinctive Note. The wrap Is the distinctive note In the dowager's costume, and In this matter the dlrectoire styles please her mightily. The embroidered vests. showing a suggestion of Hold or sliver, make the simplest of black taffetas look smart, and the long lace flounces at the wrist soften hands In wliieh wrinkles are beginning to sln?w and hlue veins to rise plainly. A dressy wrap seen recently Is on eireo t-'lre lines, combining glace taffetas wiih all-over lace, woven in loose jacket pat tern A finishing touch Is given b> ni liroldered and sequlned chiffon. The loose fronts and long-tailed back are of tie > as are also the three quarter, bell -ii :ipe<| sleeves, with a lining of I ilTet.is li. fn broldered and sequlned chiffon Is Intro.; . i-d In the vest, with rhlnestone l iittons. aijd In the undersleeves, where It falls in itipie flounces. This coat, worn with a crepe .ie chine or mousseline gown either black T white, would be most attractive For separate bodices and blouses fine net, with lace or chiffon appliques and tiny rib bon ruchlngs. Is much used. For the nvrn lng shirt waist there are many beautiful patterns In figured challles or silk) flan nels, lr. stripes and small tlgures. A smart shirt waist, to be worn with a green cloth skirt, showed small ovals done In green silk eyelet work on plain ecru llannel At the neck there was a stock of green ribbon itnteh. with a turnover of tan canvas dona In dull green and red silk embroidery. Some Delicious Summer Soups. Mock Bisque Soup.?Put one quart of milk over the Are In a double boiler and fry <me slice of onion In one tablespoonful of Nut ter slowly for five minutes, t.iking care thit It does not brown. Remove the onion, add one tablespoonful of cornstarch and stir until smooth, gradually adding a little of the tnilk. stirring until creamy. Then let It simmer for live minutes, l'ut half a can of tomatoes In a pan. and when the} boll add one-quarter teispoonlul of biking soda, one teaspoonful of salt and a little pepper. Remove from the tire, let cool a moment, then strain them into the thicken ed milk and serve the soup with croutons. Cream of Carrot Soup ?Slice three me dium sized carrots and put in a sain -pan with one enp of water, a slice of onion and a bay leaf. Cover the paji and cook untl tender, rub through a strainer, reserving the water In which the carrots are cooked, and then put the carrots and water over the fire, if the mixture Is too thick add a cupful of boiling water. Heat one and a half tableapoonfuis of butter, add one and a half tablespoonful8 of flour and stir until smooth, adding the carrot mixture. I teat until thick and boiling. Just before serving add a level tablespoonful of salt, a little pepper, -a cupful of hot inilk and hulf a cupful of cream. Creole Soup?Cook three tahlcspoonfuls of chopped green peppers and one table spoonful of minced onion I" i quarter of a cupful of hot outter for live I'.lnutes. To this add three cupfuls of brown stock, one pint of tomatoes and three tahlcspoonfuls of flour. Let all simmer for twenty min utes. then strain and rub through a !? vo and season highly with salt and cayenne popper. Just before serving add two table spoonfuls of horseradish and on.--quarter of a cupful of boiled macaroni cut in rings. Cream of Corn Soup.?li ice tlie cont- nts of a can of corn in a saucepan and add one pint of water. Cover and simmer for one hour. Rub through a sieve is much of the corn pulp as possible. Scald one pint of milk, melt together two level table spoonfuls of butter and flour, stir until thickened and add salt, pepper and the yolk of an egg beaten with half a cupful of cream. Beat thoroughly, but do not allow the soup to boil or it will curdle. A Sure Cure for Nasal Catarrh. Dissolve a teaspixinful of boracic acid powder and a saltspoonful of salt In half a pint of boiling water. Use about three times a day. lukewarm, by pouring a little Into the palm of the hand and drawing through the nostril. THfl PICTUBB GIRL OP 1904.