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SKIRTS OF THE OUR Trimmings and Fit Puzzle Home Sewers. QUILLINGS AND LACE SIMPLE DUST RUFFLES NO LONGER USED. The Value of Inverted Pleats - Sash Ends for Girdles-Other Hints. Special Correspondence of The Evening Star. NEW YORK, December 1, 1904. A decided reaction has set in against the comp,ulicated skirts introduced at the be ginning of the season. Fulled to discom tort. shirred. corded and bristling with trimmings, these skirts were the torment of dressmakers and the despair of home aewers. The mere sight of one would cause the head to swim. and when the moment came to lift it from the mire-behold help less breadths. flopping widths. despair! A French correspondent writes: "The present tendency of fashion is to free itself from all eccentricities. and skirts espe cially are c:trefully considered. For in stance. those overloaded with gatherings. ptaflngs and ruchings, reaching more than half way up the waist, are put aside for those which are only trimmed around the bottom. The top part of the jupe is but slightly gathered to make it fall nicely, and at the bottom many a new skirt suggests the clinging models of last year. Leaden weights are put in the edge of these to reep them down and to prevent the~clinging about the fe -t, a thick cord or crinolette is sewn in the 'bottom of the foundation skirt. tw - I %/ SMART SKIRT MODELS SEl -The latter. however. is so light and elastic as scarcely to be noticed, but it is only i used in the lining, and the thin upper ma terial must fall loosely qver it. "With reference to the length of skirts, those for every-day wear and walking pur posc. are made to clear the ground. But for promenading and visiting, a slight train is still considered to give a more dressy appearance, and this train the true Paris Ian elegante scorns ever to raise. Except across the muddiest sidewalk it sweeps as a matter of course behind her, creating a look of inherent grace, as if the train and the lady were one!" But broad generalities will not by any means it the subject of skirts, for cut and style detwnd entirely upon their relation to materials. For exampile, all corded and shirred skirts require a pliable texture, such as crepe de chilne, eclienne. liberty silk, voile. chiffon velret, etc., while a skirt of severe cut, with fur or velvct hands. may be in a) cloth as heavy-~ as leather. The fitting of these last at the~ top is accomplished in Various ways. but such pleats as may ap penr are always cut away underneath at the hils. A sort of wide umbrella shap - ing ilistinguishes many a skirt cut, the ? 303 311nOE3 I OMPADOUR I BOEE-FRONTZD ANI gores being afterward fitted to the figure with pleats and tucks, some of which are confined immediately to the front and back. Recently seen in this model was a skirt in old-red cloth with a front arrange ment of little Inverted pleats forming a fan. This skirt, like all the other smart models now seen, hung loose from the lining, which detail in some of the circular flounce models is cut exactly like the out side. The silk drops of all skirts are most -s ) ..Li 5N IN STREET EFECTB. arefully fitted about the hips, and the najority of them require a little cushion toad at the back of more or less thickness1 to round the flgure-into harmonious linea. As to the vanious models in favor, after the quality of the material is considered, the shape of the bodice which is.so accom pany it decides the cut of the skirt. With the long redingote coats in stout rnaterials so much admired for street wear, the accompanying jupe has likewise a trim and tailored quality. Numerous designs ire seen with pleats let in under a hip yoke portion cut in the skirt, these panels fan ting out gracefully from the knee down n walking. But the skirt is short, of course --less than pavement length in many cases, orth on rdngt pecuesth osi Jiiyo rceu8itn.Agi,hwvr ouce cu (a-le,an lcdoe /one unenat.Sffbon ud I 1 UNGORED SKIRTS. whose upper garment was a skirted coat of uncommon jauntiness. A Three-Flounced Skirt. A street model used with many of the little Eton coats is a skirt in three dounces, like wise pavement length, for despite the more graceful tendencies of trained effects, short skirts rule on the sidewalk. Often. these three flounces are- further accentuated by a band trimming put on as a border, while the floun%ces themselves are the shaped af fairs which are applied without fullness. The pointed bodices, so much a feature of the season, necessitate a most careful treatment of the upper part of the skirts which accompany them. If the figure is slight, the delicate texture of such a skirt is almost without goring from the hips down; and the little shaping made at the hips is hidden by the close tucking or sliir ring there employed. This quaint fullness for such models fall full below the hips -permits the straight bottom trimming used so much in Paris, and which is productive of stunning results. A Pretty Model. A skirt of lace net over changeable pin t silk shows the deep bottom band of pin't velvet applied to the skirt with scattered lace incrustations. This full skirt, which is most often har nessed with a jaunty bolero bodice of some sort, is one of the smart designs of the season for evening wear. The robe-front ed models are also much admired, while trimmed skirts show the flounces put on in prim straight rows of former days. But in order to accomplish the right ef fect it is wise for those who must fashion thseir skirts at home to begin proceedings by buying -a good pattern. A number of pattern places of exclusive pretensions supply with the fiat models half a model, made up to the last detail, to insure against mistakes. The patterns are dear-from $2 up is asked for a skirt in good style-but the designs furnished are not those usually seen, and as the models are cut to measure no material is wasted. If the entire skirt is not wanted the foun dation alone can be had, as well as a single flounce, a shaped pufng, a sleeve, a cufft etc. As a substitute for the ancient "sweeper" (balayeuse), dressmakers once placed at the inside bottom of skirts there are under quillngs of lace and ribbons which render the edge of evening jupes most wonderful. In fact, it seems to be the under gloriflca s o c h tpleed Seart chiffon garnitures which hold out flounces seem as beautiful as flowers. Harmonizing Colors. If the full skirt is of silk in a staid color -say gray or mauve-when lifted it dis plays perhaps blue quillings, mixed with lace on the drop-skirt edge. A touch of black also often peeps from under the out side petticoat, for frequently a pallid silk skirt will be faced with black velvet, So much is color now liked that even with all-white gowns the under-fiummeries are tinted, though for the matter of that the whites are tinted too. S hades of rich cream, oyster and biscuit tints are seen much more than pure white, which makes the blending with color an eser matter than if the whites were of chaster quality. Dainty and becoming details with both street and evening skirts are short sash ef fects, attached to high-girdled bodices, These seem to give just the finish a tailless waist requires, and the grace of the skirt seems increased thereby tenfold, It the gown is of cloth, with velvet trimmings, the sash en4s are also of velvet, cut bias and knotted .or trimmed with ornameants to sim ulate bodice tails. They are scarcely ever over half a yard long, but the devIce Is an taxeellent way of hiding a defective skirt out or the ugly flatness of a figure. With the evening gowns the wide dlow eed ribbons which are om usdfor the high girdles may drop iny bowed and knotted ends at the back. A splendid slide -or buckle is the finish at the waist line, and the girl with short mash tails seems twice as well off as the girl with a tailless girdle, Dright Silk Skirts. Pretty petticoats which glorify plain street skirts to an astonishIng extent, are shade of dark silks, in chine flower pat torns. Tho flounces- of thes are pleated finely to obliterate still more the Inaedgti. ness of the flowers, and4 they Are edged with pinked ruchings of plain tafeta, Bly way of mosutration of th, msart M..o~W3 of thes. skirta, with gownl in lain os; seen as dark brown, bbse, eso,, the dowered may Shlay a nimbi? of'm ramenmana. by the vard, ~ 'iuel-am BTEUBLEBM W1TH TIME RUIN TO aW. Vocal Cultur,TretMumg u .An the thi HdlPI - Written for The Evefisg Stan When the double ign begins to'show it self; when the flesh beoW Ie chpeks losm its Armneqs, and unpleasalht creases ap pear in the 'midst of fabbins, then a wo man knows that her struggle with Old Father Time must begin. She might as well acknowledge the fact, and if she is a truly up-to-date woman she will not -find it a disagreeable one. For modern science has taught her how to take up that strug gle knowingly, so that she is bound to win. -- Mentally, she is far more fascinat ing than she was at twenty, and physi Faily she may be. just as much so if she will It is all a matter of work, this of beauti fying the neck. A throat that is tabby cannot be .made firm without work, and hard work at that, nor can -a thh& one be built out any more easily; the -point to be dwelt upon is, that the destred result can be achieved. With what Is now known of physical training, massage and skin foods, it is not only possible, but absolutely sure that the neck can be brought to lovely curves if a proper effort is ma-xcepting, of course, in such cases as those of some disease which lays waste byond any phy sician's power to check, ,or one which causes an abnormal growth of adipose. The same exercises work both ways in the treatment of the neck, just as they do in the treatment of other parts of the body. As a prominent physical trainer puts it, "It's all a matter of pace." By this he means that if the exercises are taken at a rapid pace so that they are tiring, they will burn away superfluous flesh; if they are taken slowly and never to a point where they, fatigue, they will cause the building of new tissues. So whether the throat and neck be too fat or too thin, you may take these exer cises;. but remember that you must take them easily in the latter case, strenuously in the former. High Collars. There is no question that the- high col lars worn for so many years have done uch injury to the neck of the wearers. It is a commonly accepted fact that they have caused darkening of the skin and ugly lines about the throat. Furthermore, they have impeded the natural rpotions of the neck. Women have been hoMing their necks stiffly, and the naturki exercise that belongs to every-day living anfd is per fectly unconscious, has not been allowed to the neck. For want of it, the double chin has gained strength and tht scrawny neck has grown scrawnier. . Collars are lower than they were; bet ter than this, they are softer. Wear the lowest and softest the styles- will-permit so as not to counteract the' benelt of the exercises. Every morning and' ight and between times if you - ca go through these motions in your room: First-Throw the head baek ts far as you can. You will feel a strain upon ail the muscles of chin and throat. See that you do feel this strain-that the 'stretch is enough for that. Now, keeping the neck stretched all the time, turn-the bead slowly to the left and right. ,If you are working to reduce a double chin you must increase the rapidity until you are woting fast; if you wish to nil out hollows, always move slowly. Next-Let the head drop forward until the chin rests upon the breast. Raise it to a normal position. Lower and raise alter nately, either slowly or rapidly, according to your special needs. Third-Throw the head badk, return to normal position, continue in two counts. Fourth-Combine the last two movements; drop the chin forward, throw the head back, and so on in two counts. A live-Minute Wik This is enoulgh for the-f01-st lesson. You should have spent five mine0s In the work; later on you can keep It up for at least twiee as long; steadily, If fat-with fre quent rests, if thin. After the exercise at night you may bathe the neck with warm water and castile soap, then give it the massage treatment, which will be described later. Next day repeat the four exercises you have already learned and add a harder one. It is taken while lying at full length on your back. Place a mattress on the floor for this-if more convenient, lay out a row of sofa cushions. Do not let your head be higher or lower than the body. Now turn the head to the right so that the right cheek comes against the mattress. Return to position. Continue In two counts. A very few counts at this will tire you, for it is much harder to take these exercises when lying down, and consequently much more beneficial, for more Is demanded of the muscles. Now turn to the left. Finally, alternate the right and left movements, stopping at position upon the second counts. Then com bine, turning right, left, right, left, and so on without stopping at position. At the neat lesson take the same mo tions while standing. This will be less strain and you can keep up the move ment much longer. Turn the heagl to the right, bring it hack to position-in two counts; then to the left; then alternately; then in combination. You will. understand that the alternating movement calls for four counts and the combination for two slower ones. Thus: Right, position; left, position, for the alternate movement. Right, left; right, left, for the combina tion. Vary the Work. If there are too many exercises to go through at one time, va:t tlfOm, using some in the morning and oghe ' at night. The last one to be taking at ding or sitting Is this: Bend lnstead'of turning the neck to the right uitiU the cheek draws close to the shouldbr. !teturn to position and continue itI counts. Change to the left. Alterite. 9bbine. Finally, practice this on thG 'mattrss. Lie extended on your bqgkr.I before. Bend the head so that the din, ests upon. the breast. Return to pehItio* This, as you will soon find, Is aq'ery' different matter from doing It while, standing. Continue in two counts. , Vocal culture, of oouwe biets the throat, giving it roubde Aa frmness, but few women who ha t.aate for singing care to take this pp merely In the beauty quest.Th e* eres combined with. massagwtbe ..m5eint if persisted in. D,961094 Of Nwfor throat massage .This fDbows the sew law as the ne, lae doWn5 for eneeises. The* me matemente eithet develop, or reduee, astolpi@* a# speak. or th ebiute aelts. s oe & Vmag ~ SpsW : aolth. Tea esa to w wt the tes Eni ppg.s, M , , - t. at the fp 4t the ndub ... and e9t ward.- 3eth hands abaM weth; a|t'ns, Of eas the t.ger a pd !n the To l oet the hoow that appear at the bee of he er to redsee limb at thi ples -ths=bs aist the e- 1sth of the two hands rob ole. You een with thi motin a#Lahe way areond the neck if you wish. - If yourszp too at or too thin in all ways you must 'not expect the. neck to beeos perfect unale you assist it tbrough the W Io5yst en You must regulate your diet our needs, and attend to your hours o?ateep, your work and general exer es Ve.r-ften correspondents compilin of a yellow neck. This is frequently the result of high collars, and the collias most. be discarded before spy treatment ean avail After this, bathe the neck in lemoa Juice and water-say a half ,glass of water to the juice of one lemon. An application of cold creame and massge should follow. Do not bathe the nedk until next morning, and then use cold water. Uaeful Suggestions. Dip your.fingers In a good skin food, then massage the hollow cheeks with A rotary movement, working upward and outward. Pinch the cheeks between thumb and first finger. Piactice this exercise for rounding cheeks: Thrust the tongue, with pressure, into first one, then the other. And this: Puff out the cheeks and slap them gently. There is'no reason for being discouraged because you cannot arWd a manicure. First, throw away yoi iteel nmilcleaer. Then purchase at any drug store some orange wood sticks. With a' penknife flat ten the end of one, then round that tiny flat blade. Once a day .you must gently push back the skin around the nail with this, and the half moons will-soon appear. -Do It when.the skin.Is softened-after wash ing. Clean the nails with the same blade and with nothing else; do not delve Into the "zig-zag" places, -but persist in cleaning In a regular curve-and the skin will grad ually grow to the nail again. Drink a lemonade every, morning before breakfast to improve your complexion. For a red nose apply a lotian made of rose water and 2 per cent In its bulk of carbolic acid. The proper weight for a woman of 5 feet 7 Inches is 149 pounds. To gain flesh take exercise, but do not become tired at it; eat dairy products; drink at least a quart of milk a day, and a beaten raw egg every day-more than one, if you can. Dumbbells and determination will overcome round shoulders. As your skin Is so sensitive, do not use the face brush until you have healed the pimples with this cream, using sparingly: Five grams sweet almond oil, five grams sulphur precipitate, five grams lanolin, two and one-half grams oxide zinc, ten drops extract violet. To thicken your hair, mas sage the scalp daily and rub in vaseline three times a. week. Peroxide of hydrogen is applied to the roots of the hair with a scalp brush-a tooth brush will do as well. Each applica tion makes the hair 'lighter. It, neither harms nor helps the growth. NEW DELICACY REIGNS DAINTY FEMIrINITY ALTERS BOOM FUENISUINGS. Ribbon Embroidery and Spangles Deck Everything From Pin Bolls to Cushions. Written for The E,ening Star. As the strenuous trend of the feminine mind since the dawn of the new woman has been symbolized by the severity and practi cability of her surroundings, so woman's return to the gentler sphere of beauty and loveliness is presaged by the exquisite daintiness of her new boudoir fittings. Not only the furnishings for her dressing table, but the equipment for the desk, the table and the workbox, and the embellishments for the walls and chairs and couch, are all built of the softest of silks and ribbons in the most delicate and bewitching colors. An entire boudoir set shows but one funda, mental shade, relieved by the blending pas tel tints of the Louis embroidery or the gold bullion work of Marie Antoinette: or a set may be built entirely of pompadour ribbon or of ribbon in Dresden design, with wee rosebuds embroidered in harmonizing tones. For the dressing table are displayed re ceptacles in every possible shape and size needed to hold the numberless small acces sories of a woman's toilet-a large roll for veils, a sinaller one for different length pins from hat pin to lawn cuff fasteners, and a still smaller roll for- needles; boxes in every conceivable form, diamond-shaped for jewels, heart-shaped for buttons, semi circular for linen neckwear, square for handkerchiefs and a deep oblong for gloves; also fiat, puffy cases for these articles. Each and every piece of the entire set is covered with the same shade of durable bengaline silk, lined with soft China silk in the same tone and bound with narrow satin-edged surah ribbon. - In similar manner the flat and circular blotter frames, the letter holders and the picture and calendar frames, address, tele phone and memorandum books-all the fur nishings for a desk have the coverings of silk. Dainty and Rich. Charming is the one word that describes these outfits, so dainty and elegant are they and yet so simple. One complete set In shrimp pink has on each piece a cluster of wee roses in ribbon embroidery, showing the pastel shades of green, lavender and blue. Another in lavender has star flowers In green, blue and lavender. Still another in white watered silk is bound with baby blue -ribbon, and has the tiny roses in pink and blue, with green stems and leaves. The pastel shades of the Louis em~broidery re lieve the ono color of the background and blend Into each other so exquisitely that they are most restCul to the eye. Following a Marie Antoinette design Is a boudoir of mauve watered silk covered with lattice work in fine gold bullion, and embroidered in the cenger of each article is a long handled basked filled with 'the tiniest of flowers in rose pink, porcelain blue and olive green. The brush and comb tray has Its embroidered face protected by a piece of beveled plate glass. In. the larger turnishings for the boudoir, such as couch pillows, scarfs for the dress ing table and. stand, cases for night gowns or bags for- aundry, the flowers are em broidered' in natural size by 'the use 4f crinkly split Slk ribbon. One scarf for the dressingr table shows an oblong of watered silk In shrimp pink, with a simulated hess of satin in th same tone, four Inches in depth. Os either end of the scarf are two water lilies done in. pink, lavender d green, and beside thewk stalke of a-s in harimanising broirn ribbon, with ates sofa - itia Aseoration of andm mn-eteer 3A wr4r annammmla aso6 tem anam a. e fi e LON TEA shuM be used in p pet _kre younispn* e aeide or NATURAL GREEN. Sold in 7C. per L By an grocers. Tria Wf a* bMhes swaimi sait Id . EARNSHAW & BRO., Wb FOR UNUSUAL &ITS Artistic Effects Attained in Recent Showings. WELCOME PRESENTS UNCOMON ABTICLES GIVE YO8 PLEASUBE. Looking Around Among What the Little and Big Shops 0 Are Ofering. Written for The Evening Stars With the beginning of December the thoughts of all womankind at least must turn to the holiday season. so fast ap proaching, and its attendant duties and pleasures. To some only the one side appears: What they must do, whether they want to or not, in the way of making gifts; to others all giving is a pleasui% only limited by the means at their. disposal. It really seems, indeed, that those who have least in the way of worldly wealth are the most generous in spirit and plan to bestow much more accordingly than many of their richer friends. Indeed, the "healthy p ch of 'just enough' " is often a spur to o whose pleasure lies in gift-making, and with untiring energy and interest she will work until Christmas is here, that no mem ber of the family, no outside relative, friend or dependent may be unremembered when Christmas day dawns at last. To an inventivb mind it is a pleasing exer cise to think of the suitable thing for each prospective recipient and the gifts that show some loving thought has made that particular selection are those most highly appreciated as a usual tning. The Always Ready. There are many staples in the world of Christmas presents, and each returning sea son shows quantities of the same things displayed or concocted that we have seen from time Immemorial. They have been tried and proved and not found wanting and are just as acceptable as ever they were in the years gone by. One hopes for novelties, however, and sometimes finds them, sometimes not. If the latter is the case one settles down on some time-honored object, which, however, may have a touch of novelty in its treat ment or combination. Everything pertain ing to arts and crafts Is specially alluring at this season, and hand work In all lines is considered as most desirable. Displays from the various handicraft work rooms are distributed all over the coun try and are more tempting to many people, especially all of rsi mold, than the machine-made goods of the large shops. Pew and Bare, Possibly the suggestion of seeming soaro ity may add a seat to these articles, for one never finds them in such quantities as factory-made goods, and we all like a thing that is out of the common, and that has a touch of rarity about It. All the copper, brass and silver hand made or beaten utensils are most interest ing, and many beautiful things are to be found in their ranks. The band-made jewelry has created a furore the past few years, and much iudi viduality is displayed in the unique set tings, and often beautiful, sometimes bi sarre, designs employed. A Bit of Jewelry. All costumes are enhanced by something In the way of jewelry, harmonizing In color, and as all styles ate shown, the substantial as well as dainty and delicate, each pur chaser may be sure of finding something suitable, whether for morning, afternoon or evening wear. Everything pertaining to lamps and can dies is of interest, for now both are so much used for town and country houses that there is great demand for them. Nothing very novel has appeared in lamp shades, the best being those following the lead of the Tiffany lamps, glass of opales cent hues combined with dull green bronze mountings seeming the favorites. The Japanese dome-shaped paper shades, with bamboo ribs, are perhaps the best lower-priced shades. In candlesticks Arts and Crafts workers have many forms to show; from Chicago come some fascinating ones-tail,. slender, K NfrEme to al others, but your tea ace in five minutes. Black, Mined isaled lead packets only. Goc. and I packets, Io cts. mOW ams, sene --Wesa. as.?, esde Ageots, Washuigtou. D.C. with broad round or square base. so that they look delicate and graceful, while real ly very substantial. antrnas and Screens, Lanterns are also shown on old models and find many admirers. Candle shades are of the usual variety, pierced silver over white or colored linings beink the most elegant looking, as in former seasons. To merely screen a candle on one side some pretty little silk shades are shown, shield shaped, with a ruching of the same silk bordering the edge. Charming little shades of this nature have been brought from abroad, with the coat of-arms of a country in color upon a white silk background, but these were in private houses. I have never seen them in shops. A Good 1mat. I have lately noticed some effective shades of Welsbech burners, overomng the disagreeabie white light. A thin, airy lace was tinted a dull old rose ootr aa shirred full onto a pair embreidery hooysr and these laid on the globes of two match Ing side burners In a room gave a tone light, most agreeable to the eyes, while thinness of the lace did not obscure the light to any extent. The tinting was done by diluting with water a broom stain, intended for use en wood In connection with pyrography; made very weak In solution, It gave the desired dull pink tint which had been sought after In that silk without avaiL The various art potteries. throughout the country have sent their wares also to be among the Christmas attractions. One ses is very charming in its soft blues and blues gray coloring. The shapes are all pleasing and very deco rative, and besides the colors just mention ed are green and brown combbnatlons, Japanesque in style and very effective. Art calanders, mottoes and boo%ets, all hand work, have been sent here and are beautifully gotten up and most artistie in design and treatment. Dainty mirrors, from old designs, with the tarnished gold frames, now considered so desirable, are In pretty variety, as well as lovely little picture frames for photograph or miniature. There is a great fancy for colored prints and small water-color miniatures, which are displayed, charmingly set off by these beautiful little frames. Sanitary Houskeeping. F.om Harper's Basar. The kitchen should be the focal point of our aggression, for herein lie many of the unseen possibilities to make or mar the health and contentment of a household. In these days of slipshod housemaids, many of whom, unfortunately, we are compelled to choose from the rank and ie of the un educated and untrained, who have only the crudest notions relative to personal hy glene, the only alternative Is to take things in our own hands and make treainig schools of our own kitchens, not only in justice to the health of our Immediate feol lies, but for the well-being of future gon erations. Rules looking to the preservation of health should be unremittingly impren ed on the mind of the one in charge of the kitchen, and in order to feilitate tl t ter-at the same time simplifying - date should be kept hanging in some eoenivsisat place in the kitchen, containing rules s garding the sanitary care of food and of everything appertaining thereto. It should be remembered that boiling water Is a val able disinfectant within the reach ofevwY household, and should be lavishly used. - oooking utensils should not only be thor oughly washed, but rinsed in boiling watsr and thoroughly dried before being pt away. Soap or washing soda, added to boiling water for scrubbing purposes, en hances its qualities of disinfection. Daraing Wo.aMiga Darning stockings is never a very wel. come task, and too often in the case where there is a large family the task seems al most endless. The following method will In sure less darning, because the dalns being more secure will last longer: Before begi ning to darn a hole tack a piece of coarse net lightly to the stocking over the hole, then darn over the net and be sure to also darn well into the stocking as well to keep the darn firm. The net makein such a good foundation that the work Is more quickly done, and the result Is a much smoother and neater darn than one done in the old way. How to Whiten Linen. Take one pound of fine white soap, cut It up into a gallon of milk and put It over the fire In a kettle. When the soap ha.. quite melted put In the linen and boil for half an hour. Now take It out, having ready a lather of soap and warm water. Wash the linen in it and then rinse It through two cold waters, with a very little blue in the last.