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Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, February 11, 1906, Image 46

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Special Cortespondence of Tbe St?r.
NEW YORK. February 9. TO06
SOME really beautiful and. artistic
evening gowns have been in evidence
at bills and the opera within the
past few evenings. As an example
of -arrylng out one s own color
ing In most artistic rashlon the gown
frock worn by MU? Grace Buggies at the
dance given for her at Sherry s by her
mother, Mr?. Henry Meyer Johnson, was a
SUCCPC
Th. \ n was a bronze-colored net over
s!lk o. * .o same hue, and the net was cov
ered with golden-bronze paillettes, a bow
knot of the paillettes being used on her
bronze-gold coifTure. and around her neck
was a dog collar in gold. To still furthe
carry out the color scheme, deep ecru-col
ored gloves, instead of white, were worn
As Miss Johnson is what is terme
golden blonde, with warm complexion and
bronze-gold hair, the effect was wonder
IS Wit ^?rto^r?XS
curv. - and with puffed sleeves nearly to
I'ale green gauze o
satin slip, trimmed w
in Greek key designs
silver and green.
the elbow. Tulle of the same bronze shade
us the gown was used round the neck.
Miss Buggies descends from the Mr. Bug
gies who gave Gramcrcy Park to the city
of New York.
*
* *
At this dance Mrs. Henry Meyer Johnson
wore a mauve panne velvet robe, a trained
skirt and princess coat trimmed with gold
lace. A collar of pearls was also worn.
The trimmed skirt, which otherwise was
plain, had a band of gold lace curving
around It Just above the hem, and the bot
tom of the princess coat was cut in corre
sponding curves, with gold lace turned back
over its edges, so that the curves of the
gold lace on the coat Joined those on the
ekirt. This coat was cut round at the top
with gold lace turned back over it. The
?ver satin, dotted in
trim
bands of sold lace at the bottom of the
coat extended up the side fronts to the top
of the low corsage. The sleeves were
single puffs of velvet reaching almost to
the elbows, with gold lace turned back over
the hem in cuff fashion. An aigrette to
match was worn in her hair.
*
* *
The Countess Festetics, the gruest at the
opera the other evening of her youthful
stepgrandmother, Mrs. James B. Haggin, 1
was in a charming Parision creation of
white chiffon cloth brocaded with wreaths
of roses, done in pink ribbon and green
leaves. In each wreath was a corquois, or
quiver, and a rhlnestone was set 'In the
center of each flower.
The bodice had extending up from the
waist line on eaoh side of the "front leaves
in green ribbon, with great pink roses dona
in pink ribbon, and these clasped the bust
in corselet effect.
The sleeves that came a little more Mian
half way to the elbows were full ruffles of
the chiffon cloth, bordered with a line of
colored satin.
Mrs. Haggin was in turquoise blue satin.
ver a tight liberty
?ith bands of silver White chiffon cloth,
i and butterflies in white crystals.
chiffon and tulle, and wore some of her
wonderful gems.
*
* *
A remarkably handsome princess robe in
satin-finished white cloth, very supple and
fine, has side panels of silver network and
embroidery, giving a coat effect to it. These
panels, going up the sides of the skirt
portion, extend up the side fronts of the
bodice section and shape it into the fig
ure.
To begin, there Is a high stock and chem
isette of Venetian lace over chiffon, and
attached to the lower part of this lace
chemisette at the front is a V-shaped sec
tion of silver bead fringe, each strand end
ing In a row of little silver balls. This
fringe falls from the chemisette to a little
below the waist line, and at the widest
black. White Uce and garlands of ribbon
i it.
Is eight Inches broad. Tiny silver threads
connect the fringes until the eight little
silver balls?each a quarter of an inch from
the next, strung on silver thread?are
reached; these last swing free. A fold of
silver gauze ribbon forms a V In the back
just below the chemisette, goes over the
shoulders. lx>rderlng the lace as It goes, and
extends below the lace In the front to the
bust line, and holding down a portion of
the swinging silver plastron. It is tied at
the bust line in a bow having two little
loops, but no ends. On each shoulder, and
arranged in the back as In the front, start
sections of the cloth embroidered In out
line In fine silyer cord. These sections are
laid In narrow box plaits at their center
tops. These box plaits flare and widen to
their lower edge, just below the bust line.
These plaits are not pressed in. but are
tacked along their underlying inner edges
to retain their shape.
At the bottom of the box plaits each is
cut In a short, upward turning V, the
side sections of the cloth run down on each
side in a sharp point. The one point at
each side reaching almost to the under arm
seams, and the other extending almost to
the swinging silver network of the front.
The sllvei embroidery extending up under
the arms is attached to the tight coat, knd
embroidered In
stopping a little distance from each side
of the center front leaves a vest effect
that widens toward the waist line of the
cloth. Silver loops of cord extend from
each side of tho center and loop over flat,
carved silver cabochons. In the back the
space between the silver panels is wide and
plain cloth only is seen.
Down the center front of the skirt por
tion is a panel formed of three pressed
in box plaits of the cloth, over which the
sides of the skirt lap. Down the center
plait are set in two groups two sets of
cabochons, four in each row. Loops of sil
ver cord extend from each edge of the
overlapping section and go over tfhe cabo
chons. From the last section set depends a
silver network and fringe matching that
on the bodice, the lower edge reaching to
the knee line.
This panel effect widens as it gets nearer
the floor. At the top the center only of the
center plait is seen, while at the bottom all
Inrec are visible.
The silver side panels end six Inches from
the edge of the robe, and they are sixteen
inches wide a.t the broadest portion, taper
ing to six inches at the waist line, but
widening to ten inches under the arms.
The design is of sliver network and long,
feather-shaped medallions in cord and
gauze.
In the back the robe is plain from the
chemisette to the hem. The proper fullness
is given by underlying boxplaits, beginning
jusi below the waist line in the back.
The sleeves are single puffs of cloth, end
ing three inches above the elbows under
cuffs of sliver gauze over plain cloth, the
gauze being laid on In narrow folds going
around the arms. Silver lace is gathered
to form frills that end at the outside of the
arm, the lace standing straight out some
two Inches from the arms and the ruched
top coming at the Inside eearn. There are
two of these on each sleeve, one under the
arm. the other on the top.
An inch back from the ruched edge are
three small flat silver cabochons, forming
a straight row down the Inside of each arm.
At the back of the arm half a dozen sliver
strands ending in silver balls and matching
those on the bodice and skirt, droop' to
within five inches of the hand, when the
arms hang down at the side.
The hai Is a white beaver, tipped very
much to one side, but very little over the
face. Its soft crown 13 of silver gauze and
lace, and a mass of white ostrich plumes
fill in the left side and droop over the
crown as well as the coiffure. At the back
a cac'nepelgne of silver gauze and white
tulle Is fastened.
A simply cut but rich gown In the trous
seau of a bride of less than two weeks ago
was a golden brown panne velvet bordered
at the bottom with a two-inch band of
mink fur. The skirt touched all around,
trailing sllghrtly in the back, was full at
the bottom, but so gored in at the top that
a few lengthwise tucks extending from the
waist line down about sixteen Inches in
the front, twelve at the sides and six Inches
at the back, held the fullness into the
figure. The bodice was gathered and had
the fullness at Its lower part laid in length
wise tucks that tapered out at the to.p
and the belt was a two-Inch fold of tucked
velvet edged with two rows of soutache
braid, one ecru and tho other a golden
brown. This belt was slipped through a
dull gold buckle at the back and closed in
the front with a larger one. The top of
the bodice was In bolero coait effect. Its
edges rolled in under and drooping the ieast
bit over the tucked-under portion. The
bolero back was raised in the center back
by throe little plaits each side of the back,
that slanted down and out 'to the under-arm
seams. The front was similarly arranged,
the bolero part covering the bust.
A bias fold of velvet, three inches wide,
edged aT the outer edge with a three-uuar
ter-incli gold lace border, was laid over the
top of the bodice, outlining the V-shaped
guimpe of old yellow lace. Where these
pieces met in both the center back and the
front was a small dull-gold buckle. The
elbow sleeves were full single puffs having
turned-back cuffs of three-inch bias velvet,
the upper edge showing (old lace. At the
*
* *
back of each sleeve. Just at the elbow, was
a small fold huckle. The puimpe of old
yellow ls.ce was over gold gai.ze. It had a
Dutch or round ueck.
* ?
? *
Many of the new models Just arrived
from Paris show small fleeveS, many of
them being plain and almost tight, but
most of them of elbow length. The rather
sntkll sleeves Is the ideal one. When the
arm is too thin, or too large and fat, the
large sleeve Is a blessing, but for the round,
plump arm, tapering from the shoulder to
the wrist, the latter plump but small, and
the forearm rounded by tapering, the sleeve
coming a trifle below and tight enough or
thin enough to show the arm above the el
bow, Is the most artistic possible. It Is a
curious fact that the arms of most women
are as large and often larger Just below the
elbows than above. When such a defect ex
ists the two should never be exposed to
gether. The ideal arm is much larger above
the elbow than below; it is round, white
and plump, from top to hand, with no ugly
muscles showing anywhere?as every one
should know?but the rage for athletics
among women has in many eases overde
veloped the lower arm. However, the mus
cular forearm is not so bad as the skinny
one showing no flesh. The girl or woman
with beautifully shaped arms should by all
means adopt the nearly tight sleeve?the
perfectly tight Is too uncomfortable for any
one. besides being harmful, as It Impedes
the circulation.
With the tighter sleeves ether changes
will come, and unfortunately In Paris, at
least, the longer skirt Is more than creep
ing In, even for street wear. It Is safe to
predict that on this side of the water wo
men will not go back to skirts that trall#
or even touch for walking. The skirt that
clears the ground by at least an Inch or
two or three Is better. The l.itter length is
the Ideal one for walking and informal oc
casions. The woman of moderate purss
may have to compromise and wear the -skirt
that Just clears, but the woman of wealth
can have her really short skirts for walk
ing in the morning and her slightly longer
skiits still short enough to clear the street
for the afternoon promenade or informal
call. In some instances the new short [
gowns Just made for young girls and tho
younger matrons are extremely short?six '
and even eight inches from the pavement.
Those are, of course, for morning wear,
shoiping and to wear out in the train to
where one golfs or skates, as the weather
permits, and the weather, with its sudden
changes, permits almost eveiything now.
Miss Roosevelt made pc-rhaps her last
appearance at the opera as Miss Roosevelt
as the guest of Mrs. Cornelius Vanderbilt.
She did not, however, go to the cotilion for
Mifs Dorothy Whitney, It being another
Miss Roosevelt, ard one of her cousins,
who was there.
At the performance or "Faust" Miss
Roosevelt wore an almost close-fitting
gown of palest pink satin, pallletted very
sparingly, but In large paillettes with sli
ver spangles. The top of the bodice was
cut straight across, and narrow shoulder
straps of spangled satin held It In place.
Spangles also formed a band around the
bodice top. The sleeves were scarfs of
white tulle,, wound around the top of each
arm and tied in bows, the ends of the
loops standing out at right angles to the
arms and the ends falling, but the bows
also standing out crisply from the arms to
below the elbows. Her hair, done low In
the back and with a wide, loose pompa'iour,
showed no ornament whatever. When she
entered the box an enormous sheaf of
mauve orchids was fastened to her corsage,
and this she removed after seating herself,
placing it on the railing between the R. T. j
Wilson box. in which she sat, and the ad- j
Joining box of Mrs. Ogden Goelet.
Mrs. Cornelius Vanderbilt, Jr., Miss Roose
velt's hostess, wore a princess robe of em
erald green velvet, cut square across the i
top, and having narrow velvet straps over
the shoulders. From these straps fluffs of
white lace or tulle formed full puffs and
short flounces. Her necklace was a wide
one of diamonds, set with large square em
eralds. and diamonds were used In her high
coiffure.
Mrs. Robert Goelet (Miss Whelen), and
who was In Mrs. Ogden Goelet's box, wore
a robe of blue velvet of an exquisite, soft
dull shade, having the effect of uncut vel
vet. The bodice, cut straight across, was
tilled in with point Jace and tulle, the lace
drooping a bit ov<?t the top. The sleeves
were narrow. Irregular puffs of velvet.
Across their tops like a clasp was some
sort of an ornament, that may have been
either pearl embroidery or Bllver. The lower
center of the sleeves was raised over an
under puff of white tulle or lace. In her
much-waved coiffure Mrs. Goelet wore two
feathers, shaped like long quills, but leath
ery Instead of stiff. These were placed
I quite n*:ar her forehead and slanted back
ward. These were far more becoming to
her than her diamond tiara.
Mrs. Edmund U Hay lies, in the same
box, was in pink satin, spangled, and wore
her diamond crown.
Mrs. Astor, for the first time since the
1 death of her son-in-law. Ogllvie Haig. was
In her box. She wore black velvet, the top
| cut down in a semicircle, the sides of the
robe going up over the shoulders. A two
inch band of some Bort of sliver white
embroidery bordered the neck and the sides,
where they were slashed for the arms to
go through, and extended over the shoul
ders. White lace showed at the tops of the
arms She wore a wide dog collar of black
velvet, on which a row of laj-ge diamond
stars was arranged, and also other dia
monds.
Mrs. John Jacob Astor, who was with her
mother-in-law, made an exquisite picture
in her princess robe of black velvet cut
straight across the top and having narrow
| shoulder straps of the velvet. The sleeves
I were white chiffon scarfs tied around tho
arms, with short looped bows at the back,
from which swung long, double loops of
I the chiffon, each end drawn Into a point,
I suspended from which and holding it
straight was a pendant ornament like a
I pearl. These ends came below the elbows.
I Fastened to the top and center of the bodice
and swinging quite loose, same at the top,
| when she leaned, was a triangle of large
diamonds with swinging pendants. This
| triangle was not a true triangle, being
much wider across the top. while the sides
running down to tho center point were
much shorter. Large diamonds swung
along the sides, forming a glittering fringe.
She also wore a diamond and pearl tiara
with large pearls at the top.
Mrs. Pembioke Jones, in the Jones bo's:,
wore a cloth of gold brocade princess robe.
The top crossed surplice fashion and the
sleeves were almost flat puffs of the gold.
| Miss Sadie Jones, her debutante daughter,
was in the most girlish possible dancing
I frock of white c Hi if on; she went on from
the opera to the dance for Miss Dorothy
Whitney. The skirt was shirred and full,
and the short and fluffy bodice was cut
modestly high, with the shoulders partially
covered, the sleeves having a knotted effect
at the top and back, from which hung two
drooping wing-like sections of the white
chiffon. Hsr loosely arranged hair, with |
its soft pompadour, had not even a flower (
In it. nor were there any flowers or other
ornament on her gown, and no Jewels were
worn, she being the embodiment of the
French idea of how a Jeune fille should be
frocked. ,
The Misses Irene and Mildred Sherman,
who had a very large ball given for them
? several weeks since, were also at the opera
in gowns exactly alike, at least so far as
the opera box would show. They were ciel
blue silk and chiffon. At the left of each
blonde coiffure was a flat, low cluster of
del blue flowers. Their frocks had their
tops cut out round, the shoulder curves
being covered, and the sleeves began in
short, full puffs, ending In full flounces to
I the elbow. The bodice had ruchlngs of nar
row ruffles, curving In a U-Bhape from the
sides near the top to the center front Just
above the waist line, and round girdles of
satin ribbon were worn. Four pink rosea
ran from the top of each left shoulder down
to a point near but not touching the center,
and hi the center was a bunch of smaller
pink roses. A single cluster of pink roses,
varying in size between those In the center
I front and the band, were fastened careless
ly against the right shoulder.
* *
Mrs. J. Borden Harriman, at the Senior
Cotillon of Tuesday, wore a princess robe
of black velvet and a coronet of Jet In her
rather blonde hair. The rob? had short,
i scan til v puffed sleeves with V effects of
white lace let in at the top. A line of white
showed at the top of the round decolletage.
*
* *
At the recent wedding in England the
bride wore a se\ere satin gown, having a
rolled lace collar copied from a Gainsbor
ough painting. The attendants, in blue
gowns, carried white fox fur muffs suspend'
ed from primrose yellow velvet ribbons,
and their sailor hats were also trimmed in
primroses. MARIE WELDON.
Glue That Will Last for Years.
Break some pieces of glue and place them
in a bottle with 8>me whisky. Cork tightly I
and set aside for a few days, during which
the glue will dissolve. This should be
ready for use at any time, except In very
cold weather, when it may be necessary
to place the glue bottle In hot water for "
few minutes before using Rs contents.
PARISIAN MO
PARIS FASHIONS.
Special Correspondence of The Star.
PARIS, January 27, 190(5.
THIS 13 the timo of the year when
the Parisian shops fairly bristle
with 'bargains? fascinating hats
o? mallne and chiffon, 'dress pat
terns, lingerie, lace?but why
enumerate? Every woman knows the al
most endless "-wants" that may be so
cheaply and smartly supplied if one is
thrifty enough to seize the opportunity.
Speaking of thrift, Is there any nation more
imbued with this trait than the French?
I11 fact, a thriftless wife is practically un
known in this fair land. The great lady
of the Faubourg St. Germain and the hum
blest working woman alike look after the
purse strings, and the preliminary step of
securing these strings is taken as a matter
of course at the beginning of the matri
monial voyage. The amusing part of it i3
that not one Frenchman out of one million
resists.
It is a well-known fact that the petty
finances of France are in the hands of the
women. Among the wealthy monsieur has
his allowance. Among the well-to-do he
keeps back money for his three evenings a
week at the cafe, for the restaurant dinner,
for tho theater once or twice a week and
for his tailor. Among the working classes
he tries, not always with success, to with
hold five francs on Saturday night. These
Frencn wives have proved themselves
worthy of the trust and devote their
genius for the most part to two ends of
existence?to look well and to eat well.
Their theory-is that the rest will take care
of itself. It must ?ot be supposed, though,
that the Frenchwoman devotes her time,
energy and intelligence merely to looking
well; she is really well dressed. A.French
woman would rather stay Indoors than go
out with an undarned hole in her garment,
however hidden from human eye. Before
telling you the very latest whims of fash
ion from this center o>f her realm let me
tell an amusing incident related by a
Parisian friend of mine who lived for a
time in a London flat.
Madame had two servants, a maid and an
English cook who was very cockney. This
cook was able to tickle the English palate
in homely fare. Beyond that her culinary
saience was dim. On the second day after
the domestic's entrance into the family
madame made an omelet before her. The
cook watched the operation with a face
Indicative of astonishment. She said: "It
made her that nervous to see madame
whisk the eggs about so." The omelet
wras ready to serve before the cook had re
covered. Tho next morning madame I
stewed up the mutton of the day before. I
She made an auburn-colored sauce. She I
conjured with herbs, she juggled with con
diments, she kept the pot on the move
over three flames of the gas stove all
the time. The cook sat mopping her fore
head for awhile. Then she reached for her
bonnet ana put it on. When the dish was
done she tied her bonnet strings, which
THE FAMILY CLOCK
ADVICE OF AN EXPERT AS TO
KEEPING IN ORDER
So That It May Be Depended
Upon at All
Times.
Writu-n for The Star.
The household clock plays an indispensa
ble role In every home. It regulates the
going and coming of each member of the
family, and when it refuses to run or lags
behind In Its duty disorder in all the work
ings of the household is sure to be the re
suit. A good housewife appreciates this fact,
and her care of the clock or clocks through
out the house la not the last, but among
the very first of her dally or weekly tasks.
For the benefit of the woman who has
trouble in keeping the household timepieces
running with regularity and in perfect lime
here are some advices of an expert clock
repairer as to the best methods of accom
plishing It:
Never allow the clock to be moved from
the position where it Is well balanced. A
deviation of two or three minutes a day
from the 'correct time may be the result
of an uneven placing of the clock, and once
it Is properly adjusted it should not be
shifted for dusting nor for artistic purposes.
This is especially true of clocks that have
a pendulum.
Be very careful about winding the clock
too tight. It is sure to upset the mechanism
to some slight extent, and two or three
tense windings mean a visit of the clock
repairer.
The hands of a clock should always be
turned forward. To set the hands by re
versing the right-hand motion is to loosen
delicate screws that hold them within reach
of various cog slips.
Lastly never allow the clock to run down.
It responds to regular attention Just as
surely as a human being does and keeps
Its course truly when made to follow an
endless routine.
These rules, simple as they may seem, are
of infinite value If the home sentinel, the
family clock, is to be relied upon as a cor
rect and unfailing timekeeper.
Really Necessary.
An indispensable adjunct to every well
regulated home, the clock has also become
one of Its most decorative ornaments. Art
In modern housefurnishing has left Its Im
print on clock cases and the new offerings
show rare design and workmanship. The
most costly cases, like the modem art piano
cases, are built to lit In with the general
color scheme and decoration of the room
for which they are Intended. Only a glimpse
into some of the very finest homes, how
ever, can give any idea of the value and
DELS OF PONY COATS AND RECI
had been dangling, and ."hook the dust of
tne kitchen from her feet, and at the door
indignantly exclaimrd: "HI'm a cook,
mum, HI'm not going Into service at my
time of life to learn them black tricks."
A3 a matter of fact, my Parisian friend
was not a necromancer nor much of a cook
in her own opinion. She merely knew the
half doren simple tricks of cookery which
the humblest French woman understands.
Now to business and the forecast of
spring styles. We are to see in the glad
summer time not only extremes in modts,
but in materials. Simplicity Is the twin
sister of elaboration. We are to be allowed
a great choice of selection and still keep
within the bounds of Dame Fashion's im
perialism. Indeed, "Individuality" Is to be
the slogan of the season.
Paquin will continue to promote the \pgue
of ehort-waisted effects and is employing
as a means to this end a draped belt having
a round, slight dip in front. Directly In
contrast with the short-waisted styles are
the long, tight-fitting coats. But to come
back to the short waist There is no ex
ample of this renaissance smarter or newer
than the pony coait. The Princess de Bairn
et de Chalais (nee Winans), an American
and an authority on fashions even in Paris,
has set the seal of her approval on this
jaunty little jacket. If you would like to
study a pony eo<i.t model examine the lines
of an American cadet's coat. As you know.
It is of the sack Type and reaches only a
trifle below the waist; so does its prototype,
which is one of those simple, deceptive
garments that are so difficult to construct.
If not cut to perfection, all smartness Is
lost. It is, in short, "all right or all
wrong," as one couturlere put it very con
clusively. There must be straight lines and
a decided short-waisted effect at the back.
As you may Imagine, the pony coat is
braided in military fashion. In fact, braid
in a thick, loose and shiny weave Is trim
ming the stunningest costumes of all kinds.
There is, too, a heavy hercules braid that
is very much the thing and Is seen on the
early spring cloth suits made wish pony
Jackets and semicircular skirts. Cloth is
not the only medium of the military coat's
expression, for it Is carried out in many
of the linen costumes of the summer. Such
glorious coloring, such gorgeous products
of the loom have never before been set
forth to tempt frail womankind. The lean
ings seem in tone effects toward gray
greens, cafe au lait and various reds, with
out a hint of purple in them. The purples
that were red In their predominating tint
are not in the new color scheme. There is
much that is good to be said about the
mulberry shades ^Jiich in every tint are be
coming and chic. The bright purple, how
ever, Is doomed.
Elbow sleeves still appear on ooats and
bodices, but there is a slight change in the
latter, mar.y of the new manches covering
the elbow or extending a little below It.
Skirts are generally cut circular and are
either plain, plaited or tucked. Long Jupes
are worn on all occasions except for shop
ping, when the trotieur Is the correct
length. Braided designs done In two or
three w'dths make a smart trimming on
skirts. Dong coats for the morning and
short ones for the afternoon?these are
some of the few suggestions I have to offer
the woman who Is on the qui vive for "what
to wear" ideas.
Jean de Reszke Is not only a great artist,
but also an accomplished man of the world.
His wife Is a beauty whose grace and wit
make her one of the fairest attractions of
CLOCKS OF U]
beauty of the most treasured clocks.
As an Instance, a clock of Empire design
which graces the mantel of a sapphire
blue and gold drawing room* displays In
dull gilt the speeding chariot of a goddesa
pursued by a winged messenger. The face
of the clock Is set In one of the wheels and
Is exquisitely enameled in sapphire blue.
This masterpiece of practical art has been
handed down from Napoleonic days, and is
valued at nearly two thousand dollars.
Bronze and Copper.
Within the reach of less well-tilled purses
are the bronze and copper and porcelain
clocks that are built to suit popular mis
sion furnishings as well as all the simpler
decorations now In vogue. The handsomest
of these gracefully outlined cases contain
sweet chimes that peal out musically at the
quarter, half and completed hour, like a
distant melody from the church tower.
Particularly worthy of description is a
clock case modeled in a stone composition
of bronse green. In Imitation of an old
fashioned stairway timepiece the clock
standard rises about two feet in height and
shows a moon face surrounded by a. cluster
of acorns, while peeking around at the base
PTION GOWNS
the presentation of whole opera.?. 1-a.st
Sunday afternoon there was i nr.isical re
ception at the De !{? vzk* limine, Mim Fattl,
being the attraction of tt,. moment. The
diva charmed the gu- sts by singing with
the mister of ttie !i.Tin gowns at
the De Resike miisk-nie ittracted my nt
tention by reason of their chic simplicity.
Kiven chiffon
and frilly with
one t'Miv the
Inches at the
One, a dainty affair <? f
taffeta, li id a skirt bouffci:
tiny knife plaiting* ?i pile.I
other to a depth of t\v< !vt
foot-line.
-Each line of ruffles wis ?, , tiled with a
Stitched band .of Ml} Atw. e the high
corstOt waist wis i 1 > IJ s'r >? <1 . fT< ? th it
rounded out at the n -k. "iirv-'d gra<???fully
under the bust an.I formed i small ji ke t
In the back. On the outer e.lg?. : tiling over
the shoulders, was t plaitl- ? of th?- silk.
Strapped across the chcmlsett- and out
lining the emplacement. were row of silver
braid branching out at Intervals in military
frogs.
Another gown worn by n lovely falr
halred girl was a princess fro. k of e.i^fo
au lait cloth. This costume Is illffl -iilt !<>
adequately describe, for the Jupe resolved
Itself into myriads of oireular flounce* run
ning from hem to hip line, save In the front
width, which was a continuation of the
bodice and was formed Into a panel edged
with broad bonds of stitched cioth. A
fitted cloth bertha fell around a deep, plain
yoke, headed with i circular stitched band,
adorned at the shouldos with buttons and
Elmulated buttonholes. From this bertl a,
under the arms, another ruffle and bind
formed a bolero. The siceves were a suc
cession of ruffles Just above the elbow,
supplementing the short, high puff
Mauve and heliotrope colors which have
hitherto been limited to the provlnc- f
dressy fabrics have now invaded tie- sp 4
showings of cloth In checks and plaids.
When combined with white and i susplc! .a
of black the blending Is particularly Kond.
These Scotch plaids make up well In o
morning costumes with a plain color
jacket, and the skirt worn separately In
summer with wash shirt waists will tie
found very serviceable. Anent the shirt
waist subject the new lingerie affairs have
departed in their trimming schemes from
those of yesterday Instead of fla. effects
In embroidery and lace the advanced stylos
show ruffles of lace and embroidery placed
over the shoulders In bretelle fashion. This
Is also true of the deathless bolero Jacket,
which Is formed of a single ruffl. of val. ?>
clennes lace or else the entire little coat la
carried out In a succession of tiny edgings.
The sleeves, too, are very much adorned,
the predominating features of the waist
portion being repeat? d In detach- d sprays.
The tailored shirt waist, which until re
cently has not been a favorite of Mile.
Parislenne, Is now enthusiastically adopted
since she has put the stamp of her approval
upon everything English. Tho latest shir s
are built on the model of a man's neglige
and are made of linen tucked straight up
and down, front and back. Tho rather
small sleeves finish with a narrow cuff.
The neck adornments for these shirts are
stiff turnover embroidered collars.
An outcome of the tailor made Ideas wh'c'i
are dominating La Mode is the revival of
plain belting to supersede girdles for wear
with shirt waists. The snug fitting coats
accommodate themselves better to the less
bulky belt, and the clean little turn at the
waist which is so necessary to the fitted
coat is thereby preserved.
CATHERINE TALBOT.
JIQUE DESIGN.
Is a little country girl with sun bonnet
thrown back and with merry face looking
up Into that of the sphinx moon.
However, these picturesque clocks look
well only In proper room settings, and t ne
most sought for clock of the hour is tho
timepiece with crystal case, through which
the workings of the mechanism ar.
played. From the small traveling clock to
the tall crystal box with handsome tcasa
mountings, a timepiece of this sort Is at
once unpretentious and decorative, and
serves Its purpose admirably by'making the
numbers on the face, together with -he
hand indicators, the most noticeable feature
of the clock.
Girl Kills Fox With a Broom.
From the Indiana Farmer.
One of our farmer girls killed a fox th#
other day with a woman's weapon, 'lie
broom.
The small daughter, fourteen years old,
of O. 8. Roberson, at Wheatland, Knox^
county, seised a broom and went after a
large red fox, caught in a steel trap set
near the house for hawks. She killed It,
threw it over foer shoulder nad brought it
Itoma, like the bold hunter stia was.

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