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Flowers and Ribbons Make Bouquets of Hats. THE TOUCH OF BLACK la Seen in Many of the Smartest Models. SOME VERY ECCENTRIC STYLES Success of the English Sailor When Handled by French Fingers. Special fVrreepopdenc* of The 8t?r. PARIS, March 29, 1005. With till the wonder of the first spring flowers the new millinery stylos are bloom ing along the shop streets. Crocusses, but tercups, Jonquils, all appear with Immacu late freshness?the freshness of dewy morning, It almost f?ms--and mingling with them ribbon?, feathers and velvets, displaying a redundancy of rich and deli cote posy coloring. The mere arrangement of the smarter windows themselves Is a treat to the win ter-weary eye Against a bare expanse of enameled white woodwork, sometimes pan eled like the wall of a palace chamber ana outlined delicately with gold, may be shown a single hat, together with fhe marabout, ohiffon or ostrich set which accompanies it These last are posed along the floor so carelessly and yet with such Ineffable grace that every beauty Is shown, while the hat j stands perished like some wonderful bird at the top of a tall enameled stick. At the base of the standard there lies frequewtly i a Corsage knot of real violet* or a loose j spray of genuine roses The French mo- j diste knows to her fastidious finger poin's the Immense value of restraint, and the traps she sets for the shopper have all this artistic distinction. With Easter so near, naturally hats and neck tixings have tlrst place, and never were head coverings and shoulder trapping? more lovely. The chiffon muffs and tippets eeen. as well as the other sets of light feathered materials, are Intended to take the place of the but recently discarded furs, In whose \ ;ist and ornamental sliapes the newer muflllngs are made. The scarfs of these sets run the gamut of length and width of the fur ones. Some art Immensely wide, others Immensely long. The Marabout Sets. Of all of thest the marabout set- present n. ir.oet seasonable air, with their downy "lightness and their lace and velvet trim mings. White and faint shades of buff nppear as the fashionable colorings, though pale pink and azure run them hard for fa vor Thegitnk mo3t shown is called rasp berry, but it Is a melange with cream, so that the color is the tenderest imaginable. Tails to imitate the fur ones are fashioned In some indescribable way to form the ends of ;he?e fluffy scarfs and the big muffs w<hlch go with them. If the se;: !s whlt< or In one of the pale yellows it may 1>? artistically decked with black velvet rib. bon and Jet buckles. Sparkling let 1? enormously to the fore here, the most delicate gown, hat and neck fixing often showing a touch of it. Hugo buckle* are used for the chapeau. and are etrung over a wisp of black tulle, all the rest of the hat being in parrot or raspberry pink or pale. blue. The effect of the black note, which Is placed directly In frort of the curiously folded and perky little chapeau. und from which rises often a panache of magnificent ostrich feathers. Is immensely striking Very Elaborate. The more elaborate of the scarfs and muffs, together with such hats as this, are, however, reserved entirely for festive use. They may be worn envoiture in the after noon. but more often they are seen accom panying the oale. elaborate dresses which are now entirely de rigueur for evening. Some little marabout scarfs, charmingly devised for <lay use. are no longer than the sling neckpieces of fur. These are seen in colors to match the gown, while swirls of white ostrich locks, daintily disposed down the length, give them a very orna mental air. A touch of ostrich feathers Is, In fact, much employed with marabout, and with such lightness are the sets constructed it almost serins beyond the power of human fingers. The same thing may be said of the chiffon sets, some of which show masses of flno kiltings. These are arranged in a pointed drop on the big muff, which may be further sot off by a huge pink artificial rose, showing Its entire complement of thorny stem and green leaves. Nature Is serving as a model for many of the new styles, and the intense arti ficiality of aome of the flowers of past sea sons is entirely out of date. Tempting Articles. For day wear a smart shop in tho Rue de la Paix displayed some ravishing conceits , in hats and neck fixings. A wide scarf of | black marabout trimmed with doubled j flounces of Inky chiffon, kilted and then I opened to a loose puff, seemed extremely desirable. A similar one was afterward seen in the Bois, disposed about the shoul ders of a very elegant white cloth dress, topped by a hat of black crin with white feathers. Combinations of black and white are always thought chic in Paris, and they invariably go Lefore all color or all black. In fact, Parlslennes are not fond of all black, and If such a gown is worn it is sure to be enlivened with a gay hat or a colored neck set. Apropos of hats, they have really reached a point where It Is impossiblo for accurate description. The majority of those now shown at the big places are very elaborate, as finery for the race course always appears at Kaster. And with them are seen the ftlmy, almost ball-like gowns, in which the true Parlslenne makes her appearance at Lonirchamt>s and elsewhere, for horse rac ing is onlv an excuse here for the wearing of elaborate toilettes. Extreme Styles. Some of tlie shapes of the new hats are Chic i Muffling^. eccentric in the extreme, and all are perched upon heads which seem to be cushioned, so enormously fixy. studied and big have coif fures become. The arrangement of the hair, its color and shade all go toward making these hats a success. The scantily thatched and indifferently arranged head has no showing whatsoever, and so well do smart dressers know this that the coiffeur is in j Incessant demand. Inadequate locks are I supplemented by innumerable false pieces, j which are so carefully matched and fitted nobody can tell where nature ends and .art begins. Then every hair muse tfhine? like molten copper, generally, for a'light bur nished auburn is the one most women strive for, however attained. The sheen Is made by new and powerful brilliantlnes, which are applied by the coiffeur with massage, so that the brilliant effect lasts a week or more. To return to the headdress on these won derful t?*tes, whose curled, coiled and un dulated locks lie with the precision of wigs, the small hat is by far first choice for ordi nary wear. A little folded shape with a round crown, an Immense cache-pelgne and feather* put on to stand high and veritably dance with movement. Is much seen. Some times the outside of the hat Is different from the facing, such as black under white, taupe under pale blue, brown over white, etc. But boffh the upper and the tinder side are trimmed each with Its own color, so that a .very rare and becoming harmony is preserved. Odd and Small. Among the eccentricities is an odd little affair built entirely of flat plateaux, which are likely to have a wide vogue. These are essentially round disks of crln. leghorn, lace crinoline, or some delicate fancy straw. The j upper disk is smaller than the lower and the two are raised to form the back of the hat, with liowers massed between th? lay ers. Underneath the hat at the back will be musses of the sgjiie posies, and loops of ribbon wonderfully tied, falling sometimes quite to the nape of the neck. The little English sailor, born again under the miglc of French fing-ers, which re move all the hardness. Is thought very dis | tinguished for simply tailored frocks. Yet ti.esu hats are nevSar cheap, howeveT sim ple they are. for to be a success all are most carefully made by hand. A very dashing model In them was of duil green straw?a shade bordering on sage?with a trimming of satin ribbon raised high at the left In the same color. This hat was shown In a *?ue St. Honore shop, alongside a prim little "Eton gown of checked veiling in beige and sage. Stitched hands of sage satin put on like tucks here, trimmed the skirt of this gown and the Eton. InvestI1 gation proved the dress to bo priced 300 francs (*a>) and the hat S*> francs A Bonnet Street. Millinery In the Rue de la Paix, which la quite the most celebrated street In Paris for exclusive styles, Is very fine. The hats .shown on this page are all taken from the models displayed by a shop which caters a.most entirely to the Faubourg St. Ger main set. All of which means that the s.}les are rare and hats high-priced, though the models selected may be reproduced without great expense. The styies are for walking, race course and carriage use. In the same shop were also seen some very smart little collets on the simpler order, which any woman of taste and facile lingers might copy for a third of the price. Anything of neck ruffle description is a col let in Paris, and even certain of fur pieces un^ei! tfl'8 head. Some neck fixings both prominently displayed and entirely' charming In essence were of course white net, stiffened at the edge of the kilted ruf fles with: fine wire and there trimmed with bands of narrow ribbon. The ruffles are very snort, barely sufficient to encircle the nock. The front ends are either festoons ? r > tr!mminS ?r short scarfs of the ma terial trimmed in the same way as the ruche. Little Wraps. A number of little shoulder mantlets are seen. One of white silk, finely kilted and striped with narrow black velvet, which ga\ e the under shadow for the pleats, was most stylishly posed over the shoulders of a black chiffon frock. In point of gowns costumes of checked veiling with skirts fopped by a little silk Jacket in the deeper color have a special elegance. The Jackets are tremendously dressy, with their swirls of narrow puffing made on cords and underfalls of rich iaces, and though many sleeves are long, the ele gant one is still short enough to give dainty underfrllls and the popular long glove much prominence. As to these gloves, more matching the color of the dress or else In white are seen than the black ones chron icled as favorites in America. Still the black lace gloves, the gant Yvette, as they are called here, have an air of immense chic, and sometimes a colored gown will be set off by them. In that case the hat is black, too, for sequence above everything Is what the French mondaine strives for. A delightful get-up In a stylish tea room was worn by a charming dark-haired wo man who was described by the waitress a3 American because of her long black gloves. The gown was of black chiffon broadcloth, falling from the little empire bodice effect In limp and perfectly plain folds about the feet. An exquisite feature of the bodice wjjs a gulnjpe ruffled collar and bust bow of pure white silk mull, the last held by a long Jet buckle. With this faultless and em.nently simple toilet went a hat equally remarkable for taste and originality. The shape was one of the Indian helmet styles which appeared In the early spring with the stiff derbys which Paris milliners have a trick of trimming in a way to make them the height of coquetry. "White straw was Its material, the trimmings black panne and ostrich feathers, and the long pin which was thrust for effect through the stiff crown expressed the latest kink in hat fasteners. New Hatpins. Made of tortoise shell in all the shades or brown, the heads of these new hatpins are Immensely big. They are always thrust In the front to show prominently, and when In the yellows often seen, nestling among loops of ribbons or beside flowers, they are vastly decorative. That of the lady in black, whose big shoulder knot of violets was pinned with a similar Implement, was In the deeper mahogany tints. A charming and late fancy of Mme. La Mode Is the use of gayly flowered silks, which are employed for unnumbered lovely trifles. Linings for chiffon gowns, mantle trimmings, hat deckings, corsets, petti coats and shoes are all made of these posy flecked textures, which show to a large degree Ixiuls XVI designs. The silks are of exquisite softness, and some of purely white taffetas embroidered over with bright or dimly tinted bouquets have truly the a'r of courts. A very effective disposal of the flowered silks Is to have a fancy corsage In some one of the tinted backgrounds with a skirt of plain eilk. One toilet so con ceived had the skirt of plain gray and the bodice of flowered silk, with blue so pre dominant that the effect was blue. Flowered ribbons are also much used on children's hats, behind which the wldfe rlb : bon is sometimes allowed to fall in almost skirt-length streamers. NINA FITCH. Cloth Garments Useful for a Child. LIGHT COLORED CLOTHS Tweed Jackets Are Made Jaunty and j Short. THE BOX AND PONY COATS One-Piece Frocks of White or Cream Serges?Embroidered Collars. Written for The Star by Katharine Anderson. Little folks- wash frocks for warm weath er, especially If they are home made, are usually planned and out of the way by this time. It Is cloth garments, both coats and dresses, for wear on cool and stormy days that have to be considered now, and as these are quite as reasonable and pretty when purchased in the shops, the majority of mothers are busy hunting for ready-made garments. The first word of advice to the shopper bent toward the children's department is not to despair when she views the array of light-colored clothes spread out for her selection For despair she surely will if she stops to think of the worry and labor that is before her to keep these self-same clothes in any kind of a clean, fresh condi tion once the little ones have put them on for regular wear. . A second word of advice to the mother is to study all the methods of dry clean ing which she can lay her hands on, and supply herself with a good old-fashioned cleansing fluid warranted to remove dirt without leaving ugly stains. She will need | every known device to do away with the day or week's accumulation of apots, and what is more, she will have to make a regular duty of performing this task. It would amount to nothing short of bank ruptcy to send the new -light-colored gar ments to the cleaner's every time they might need it. Tip of Fashion. Third and lastly, the exhortatio nls under no condition to pass over these spring and summer offerings. They are in the tip of fashion just now, and manifold as are the possibilities for their becoming stained and soiled in the end the trouble of keeping them clean is nothing compared to their in her cnt prettiness. Furthermore, the chil dren will seem to blossom out in them like the spring flowers, shed<ling as they will the dark and somber frocks ot winter for the more appropriate light and 'bright at tire of the sunshine season. And now to come to the wonders of these spring and summer confections which are bewildering even to the devoted mother's taste and fancy. Jackets especially present a variety of style and material vvhicTT make it a problem to decide which one is most attractice and best suited to .he Individual child. Materials and trim mings alike display a range of novelty such as they have never shown before, and the tsolors and combinations of colors rival those seen in the costumes of grown-ups. Very light gray and light tan are every where in evidence as decided favorites, while pure white and white and black ef fects strike the very smartest note in Juve nile fashions. Scarlet coats, too, appearing as they always do with the spring offerings, this year are given a distinctive touch by sage green cloth or velvet collars and cuffs set off by embroideries of gold thread or braid The buttons also may be covered ?with green, the rim being of metal or cellu loid to match the color of the coat. Changes but Few. The cut of children's Jackets changes but little from season to season, and the box coat half way to the knees remains the one most In use. As a variation to the double-breasted model, an occasional Jacket will show a single line of buttons which fastens the small garment slightly off to one side, while the seams of the single back breadth are left open nearly to the waist, exactly like a man's coat. An example of tills style of jacket was car ried out in a smooth mixed cloth of a light bluish gray. The collar and cuffs in a deep shade of cerise velvet matched a taffeta lin ing. which added a charming touch when the Jacket was allowed to fly open This fashion of lining with bright col ors Is a noticeable one of the season, and the American beauty shades of red are very much to the fore. Alice blue Is an other favorite, but whatever may be the color, a collar of velvet or cloth to match, and an embroidered motif shewing the same colored silk on sleeve or sailor collar trim the exterior of the coat.. The spring Jacket pictured is shaped in white flannel striped with a hair-lino cerise thread. The sleeve of the left arm U embroidered by hand with an eagle de sign in cerise, which, together with the velvet collar, emphasises the unusual and smart effect of tills exceptionally lovely child's garment. Kqually fetching are the white flannels and serges checked or striped very faintly with blue or yellow or black, and characterised by similar trimmings in bright contrasting colors. Tan Covert Models. The tan covert coat Is above all other* so serviceable that when novelties fail to please this good old stand-by can always be depended upon lor style and becomlng ness. With the full strapped back revealed In the tan jacket which is pictured, an additional modish touch Is rained, while the black and whlto! embroidered shield re lieves the severe plainness of the garment. This shield ornamentation has bocome ait Indispensable part of the cloth garments for children, and it appears on every one of the practical frocks shown to the spring shopper. In fact, the style of dress with which the shield originated has gained In favor until now ail the really smart school dresses for little girls show the sailor blouse and the kilted skirt. When in dark colors this blouse is laced in sailor fash ion down the front, and some contrasting colored material shapes the deep collar and the cuffs. This is true particularly of the dark blue suits, which this spring ar0 finished with bright red collars and tied with a sailor knot of silk in the same dash ing shade. The illustrated costume for a girl of eight or ten is in a deep green serge set off by strappings of white wool braid and tied with a sage-green silk knot. A second blouse suit is built of a mixed tan Panama cloth trimmed with brown braid, embroid ered with a brown motif and tied with a brown surah ribbon. Extremely natty and suitable for summer are the hosts of white eerge and Panama frocks that greet the shopper's eye wher ever children's attire is displayed. They, too, show tlie influence of the blouse suit, i and both in the one and two-piece dress have the sailor collar, and can be worn with or without the embroidered white pique dickie that Alls in the neok. Primrose Trimmings. A charming example of the one-piece white serge dress stood out from its companions in a show window because of the primrose yellow silk which was laid over the outside of the deep square collar. Embroidered shield and anchor were worked In gold thread, and a narrow gold braid finished the edges of both collar and cuffs and out lined a yoke effect which extended to the bottom of the skirt in & wide plait. Tiny gilt buttons also helped to decorate this exceptional little garment. The use of soutache braid and small but tons is the most striking feature of the plainer cloth frocks for girls, and the for mer is zigzagged on the garment In every conceivable shape to effect a unique trim ming. Often these trimmings present a di rect contrast to the dress itself, and even to the appliqued trimmings of silk or cloth This Is remarked particularly on the vari ous blue and white, green and white and black and white check*, which appeal to children's taste as well as their mothers', and which lose none of their popularity as they become more common. A French Air. Set oft as these checks are by bright red, grajror blue motifs of silk in the form of a yoke or strapping*, the soutache braid, Bke a delicate line of color In the wnre of a materia], adds stwtksr not* of contrast. This braid blends harmoniously with the "Irresistibly Delicious" Is the opinion of all who have once tasted SilMl Ceylon and India Tea Packed in sealed lead packages to preserve its many excellencies. REFUSE SUBSTITUTES. Trial packet 1 Oc, Black, Mixed, Green or Oolonq. At all Grocers, HIGHEST AWARD ST. LOUIS, 1904. fabric, as well as the applied trimming, ana gives a desirable French air to the entire BUlt. Not to be overlooked by the mother who would have her little girl very correctly dressed are the embroidered collars, which return this spring again and are welcomed as a most sa.tl&?a<-tory roeaue of Riving an Immaculate appearance to any cloth gar ment. These collars are usually of linen finished simply with buttonholing Perhaps an embroidered motif ornaments one or lx>th of the corne.rs, or, on the newest offer ings. Alencon laca medallion* furnish the only embellishment. THE NEW RIBBONS STRIKING BEAUTY OF WHAT MAY NOW BE BOUGHT. The woman who would Indulge even in part measure the passion for flower effects in ribbons this summer will need a large dress allowance. The girl who intends to Bet off simple summer frocks with the pop ular sashes will also need to skimp on these same frocks or she will find that her sashes shrink Into mere girdles, so exorbi ; tant are the prices asked for the ribbons which are the fad of the hour. In act, as girdlec they will appear very tarsal jr. both the ribbon and tinsel fabrics being stamped with floral effects. When of ribbon, the girdle# are finished with butter fly bows of vetvtrt matching the most pro nounced tint In the flowers, and In their IMPERIAL HAIR REGENERATOR Acknowledged to be The Standard Hair Coloring for GRAYorBLKACHEDlIAIR hero and fn Ktirope. U in dura i bie and natural. absolutely harm ? leaj. and produces nay shade trom Black to tho li<rht^?t Ash Blond?. Baths or sbnmitooina: do not affect it: permits curl ing;. Sample of you r hair colored and returned free. Privacy aa I ah rjujj surod correspondence. ; Sole manuf'rs and patentees. | IMPERIAL C8EM. MFG. CO . I3S W. 23J Si., New Y?k _ 8?lfl applied by M. C. Wnelan, 1105 r St. W W. shape resembUtig Bomcvrhat the bloneom* In the stamped design. mi,,Je from K"Id antl *Hver ! Interwoven with How. r patterns nr., ??aped very much Ilk ,thrr belt* and are fastened by Jeweled ornaments or slm p er buckles of silver Kilt. Th??c girdles should be put to immedla;. to sot off the silk and crepe waists for ?nrlnc wpar. because they will look out of v.aco with wash grown*, for which tho wash bolt s again In favor BetuitMul omblnatlons In delicate colors lik" silver with blue f r get-me-nots. gold with pink hawthorre primrose, are sho?n In tlie?* tinsel be'.rs. The ribbons ured for bel's are generally In small pompaontir or Dresden d?"lcr. frequently etrlpvd between the r"ws of flowers with a imlid color matching the larger blossoms, tuch as vinje; stripe* When tli? violet b.'os*-im? are used, pale blue with forget-me-n and pale pink With raOES roses. Incidentally the m..?t rose la extremely popular In both large and small designs. Dashing' and Bold. T/ong sashes have never shown such bold and dashing designs, and rarely. Indeed. Is the manufacturer satisfied with stamp ing flowers upon a plain ribbon back ground. T'sually several weaves are em ployed In the ribbon Itself. I>erhaps th? only exception to this Is the plain taffetas or gros grain sash stamped on the ends In enormous Marie Antoinette or empire floral wreaths. Some of the ribbons have a moire back ground with a satin stripe. Others at* woven to simulate a veiling of la. e over a moire or satin background, and against this Jacey veil Is thrown In high relief flowers woven with such masterly skill as to effect the appearance of h?u:d em ? ,or, ^lVot applique Flowered gauze striped with satin and bands of tin sel woven Into the soft, supple silk are also among the novelties In weaves. -/J1 "lfl ?' <'es'*Ti. American beautr roses and kindred floral patterns, In more than life size, seem to lead The r.ewst pompadour ribbons show bouquets of n??. ers often several varieties on one ribbon veiled with a sheen-like tinsel, in one nRht this ribbon throws tho pompadour design Into bold relief. Again, in a different light one sees only the sheen dt the silver tinsel. A bold design, suitable for a sash to 1m worn with a black muslin or chiffon gown. Is displayed on a wide warp ribbon of sup ple taffetas set off by enormous blossoms which might pass for roses but for their extravagant coloring. The design u ar ranged alternately, the splash of cerise of the most glowing shade Interchanging with a peculiar shade of yellow, vivid yet toning Into cerise. Enormous violet-colored ros?j are also stamped on the black background, while the old-fashioned cabbage or garden rose blossoms on a shade of blue similar to the new robin's egg Tinsel and Spanglea The spangle Influence of last wln'er la shown In a remarkable fabric of white moire edged with a satin band and stamped with enormous lavender orchids dotted at regular intervals with green tinsel of har monious shade. At night this tinsel weave gives the effect j)f moonbeans over the background of the exquisitely tinted flow ers. Equally strlklngfyet delicate for even ing wear Is a cream-oolored surah woven with long slender tulip leaves of sage green, the blossoms In pure white spark ling with threads of tinsel, as If plucked while the dew was still heavy upon them. When a plain sash Is worn with a flow ered dress, the two predominating tones In the floral decoration are combined in the ribbon, such as pink and blue ribbon where pink and blue flowers are stamped upon a white material, and instead of several bows for the sash the ribbon is frequently crimped to simulate blossoms. New Spring Fabrics. From Harper's Bazar. Among the new fabrics of the sea.-i ue to be found many old favorites, some und'-r new names and In different weaves, other* practically unchanged. Taffeta silk lu toft finish and of the fllnest quality are to be seen, plain and figured and with the eyelet embroidery, and In white, black and cojor?, ind in changeable as well as plain effects, so that no summer outfit will be considered complete without at least one taffeta sown. After all, there are few gowns so service able, and although there haa been with " some women a prejudice against taffeta ?ilk, that prejdHSe la being gradually for gotten. as the new silks wear much better than those of a few years ago.