Newspaper Page Text
MD1S raSHK?S(S ? /IproriC r EUNMHISftll) NETA?I8, FON IN EMMHE & PRINCESS mxaa <*n Chirfcn goto ?hot <=? ,'b> r.tu"?i.i*<3en_? EARLY In the spring it was quite ap parent that the new gowns were bound to be expensive, and a9 time has gone on the fact becomes more and more noticeable until the ques tion of clothes to the woman of average In come becomes more and more of a problem, especially If she be cursed with a love of dress and a knowledge of how to dress as well. To turn one's back absolutely upon the inost expensive of the surhmer fashions is difficult Indeed, for all the now models have ?o much that la attractive about them. The trimmings are so handsome, the materials used are so beautiful, while the shape and general style are unusually distinctive. The colors range far beyond any color limit hitherto known. There are different epochs In dress that are carried out to perfection or modified to seem on tne llntss of the fashions of the moment. Everything is graceful and artistic, and the eftort.that is made ty make each woman look as though Little Sachets For Summer Use THERE is little more dainty or pleas ing to the eye than the small sach ets which fashionable women are using this summer. They are laid among handkerchiefs, laces and veils, and appear In plenty wherever lingerie and fancy bod ices are kept. The points of newness about these little sachets are that they are seldom larger than four by six inches, that they are made of the flneet linen cambric instead of silk or brocade, and that each woman who uses them chooses one particular de sign to herself and has them all made in conformity. Sometimes the shape of these little sachets Is varied from rectangular to lieart-shaped, or else It is an oval. The scented cushions which nil the linen covers should be of either heavy silk or satin, while their color then shows attractively through the sheer linen. The outside linen covers of these little sachets are often embroidered as elaborate ly as an Infant's baptismal robe Drawn work appears on them in profusion, and usually a monogram or Initials And a place In one corner or else In the center. Real lace is let In the various designs, the favor ites used being Valenciennes and Cluny. Sometimes a heavy lace is combined with one that is unusually fine. The effect pro duced is then highly characteristic. Of course, these Unen slip covers, as they may be called can bo laundered as readily as u handkerchief, otherwise it would be a waste of energy to decorate them so much. Around their edges they are finished with a wide hemstitched border or else with a narrow rultle of lace Those that follow the Italian style of decoration use an entredeux of drawn lace to Join the front and the back of the sachet together and through which the colored lining shows attractively. Such sachets also are often decorated with a heavy square of Italian lace in one cor ner. while the r*?t of the front Is covered with some pleasing design done in drawn work. Invariably these linen covers to sacheta are finished nt one end with buttons and buttonholes, so that they can be slipped off at pleasure for laundering. Perhaps the prettiest design for working the heart-shaped sachets Is to inlet on them a real lace butterfly and embroider under It a few flowers. The embroidery Is done In the same way that monograms are worked on handkerchiefs. As with all other Cach ets, it la only the upper side that Is dec orated. With few exceptions, these dainty sachets are made by the wosncn who use them or give them away as bridge prixes and spe cial gifts. When these little sachets ore made at home their cost Is not great. The hand kerchief itnen can be bought of exieilent quality from $1.36 to (2 a yard, and H care fully cut one yard will make from tlx to she had a good figure, of course, helps enor mously in the general effect of the clothes Long, sweeping Hnes are the most popu lar, for they are the most in accord with the gowns that are now exhibited. The empire -stylo is a hideous thing when it is attempted in a short skirt, and a badly cut one at that; but with the long skirts it is certainly most graceful. The princess style can be treated in precisely the same way and at the same time the ever-popular skirt and waist separate with the wide girdle is enough in style to warrant at least one such fashion in the summer outfit, and every material known and many now ones can be made up so as to have an endless variety of color and material. * * * All colors are fashionable this summer, and, in fact, all shades of color also, and at the same time there never were so many entirely white gowns turned out, while every week now as the season advances now styles for ail white gowns are put forth. The country has been Inundated eight sachets. Little bits of laces which have been left from other things often work in for their decoration, and the linen thread with which they are embroidered is but a matter of 2 or 3 cents a skein. Small rem nants of either silk or satin can then be found for their lining. Usually good sachet powder is expensive, but then a very small quantity of it goes a long way, nothing being more offensive than to use It at too full strength. The real cost of the popular little sachets is in the labor of making, but even this is minimized when they are done at odd moments. TIME FOB FANCY WORK. How One Busy Woman Manages It. "How do I find leisure for fancy work?" echoed the lady of the house, looking up from a dainty bit of embroidery to en counter the someiwhat envious gaze of the morning caller. "Why, there's no secret about It. I've simply introduced business methods into my housekeeping, with a view to getting the best possible results with the least possible expenditure of time and energy." "Yes, I have a good maid, of course, It pays to get the best in help as in every thing else. E!sa Is clean, capable, willing and thoroughly honest. She knows how to do her work, and does it. And as tnat is exactly what I hire her for. I let her do It. You know the proverb: 'It is folly to keep a watch dog and do your own barking.' Well, there is more truth than poetry In that. "I have a routine mapped out for every bit of the housework, and every morning I plan the meals for the day. I do that be cause I prefer to b? the brains of my houss ho.d, but I do not undertake to fill the orders when I have given ttoem. I don't go into the kitchen and mess around among the dishes, Interfere with the laundry work, etc. That sort of housekeeping will ruin the best servant living. It hurts a girl's pride to be told to do things and then watched to see that she does them. And It makes her nervous and Irritable to have somebody pottering around, giving trivial instructions when she Is trying to get through with her work. "About the marketing? Oh, that was all done hours ago. You see we breakfast at half-past 7, so that Harry may reach his othce on time, and the day's provisions are all In my icebox before the general shop ping hours begin. By 10 o'clock I am home again, lnvlgtorated by my walk and with the most of the morning still before me. "No, In the usual sense of the word, I don't shop, when It Is a matter of eatables. Once in a while I may buy something at an unfamiliar store, but I find It's a good thing to have a butoher and grocer that you cub depend upon, and you can't do that if you flit from one to another. Bar gain hunting In food doesn't pay. "Now as to planning out the day's work. Each day has its duties and I try to arrange them so that Klsa may have an hour of leisure every afternoon. Tou se? It is to with wfcat Is known as the lingerie gown, which in its fullest rendering Is an ex quisite thing but made up in cheap mate rials with quantities of cheap lace is most undesirable. The lines, as a rule, are good and the model Is one that can be well car I ried out with comparatively little trouble, if care be taken. In a light-weight cloth or chiffon there are some exquisite gowns on this order, and the beauty of the trimmings used on them and the perfection of cut and ! fit does not make the prices asked seem so preposterous. More and more are worn I en being educated In the study of how to dress becomingly, and the choice of color as ; well as the model is carefully considered in these days?so carefully considered, in. truth, that very often what would strike an I onlooker as most appropriate and becom ing soon gets, Instead of general approval, general disapproval, and the fashion Is thrown aside to make room for something else, some design that is more generally adaptable. Light-weight cloth gowns are only possible on cool days In summer, but the woman who provides herself with one or more of them before starting off on her summer campaign Is wise beyond her gen 1 my interest as well as hers, to keep her healthy and good tempered, and I couldn't do that if I kept her working the whole time. 'The dining rooms, bed rooms and front | hall are part of Blsa's dally work, and all must be attended to before noon. I do the dusting myself. The washing is not done on Monday, but the first thing I do ; on that morning Is to sort over the weekly laundry, making the necessary repairs In bed and table linen. Then Elsa puts all j the woolens to soapsuds and leaves them | to soak. "Tueseday morning she Is up bright and I early and has the washing on the line be | fore noon. The ironing Is finished by | Wednesday, and by that night everything In aired and ready to put away. On wash ing day I do the upstairs work myself, chiefly because I like It done early in the day and do not care to have Elsa Wave her laundry work merely for that. "The. other days of the week are given over to sweeping and cleaning, and I avoid getting dinner myself on the maid's night out by going with Harry to some nearby restaurant. ? "One of the lessons I have learned since I started housekeeping is that It is poor economy to use up strength and time in work that somebody else can do better. When I was without a maid once, I under took to do my own washing and clean ing. The result was that I was too worn out to crawl for days afterward, and It toak a month of nursing and tonlcj to put me In condition again. Since then, when I have been without help, I sent the laundry out and had a woman in to clean." "Yes, I'll admit the housekeeping prob lem might be more difficult If there were children. But I think It could be solved even then. ?It would mean simply a little more planning and a little less fancy work." Some Excellent Shrubs. Deutzla lemolnei Is a shrub that blooms freely in early spring, when there la not an abundance of bloom In the garden. The plant Is almost entirely covered with clus ters of pure white flowers above the leaves, the contrast giving a striking appearance. This shrub grows to a height of four feet. It In equally satisfactory as a hedge plant In the mixed border, or as a specimen plant on the lawn. It Is ea?Uy kept In neat form by a small amount of pruning, whlcn should be given after It blooms. It Is per fectly hardy, of easy culture and rapid growth. It Is not expensive, but among the most valuable of plants to the gar dener. The New England aster, aster noa-an giae,. Is a native wild flower which Is very beautiful. It grows to three feet, and pro duces a mass of bloom for many weeks late In the season. Moat of these plants win spread out If given room, and after they have been planted a few years re quire little attention. Of course, better results are obtained If they are cultivated and fertilizer Is applied once or twice a year. The red hot poker plant Is odd and strik ing, remaining in bloom from summer to late autumn. A mass of th?m planted to-, gother la very effective^ eratlon, for cold days are bound to come even at the moat luxurious watering places, and the light-weight cloth gown is a thing of joy and beau-ty when the thermometer takes one of Its sudden drops. Chiffon and chtfTon cloth both come in well for the new styles in gowns. The ma terials drape well, hang well and do not take up too much room in the seams, and in these days It is considered much more fashionable to have gowns to follow closely the lines of the figure, which Is impossible to attain to when the material is too heavy in weight. It is rather a fad to use thin, sort linings, both In skirts and waists, and undoubtedly this is not a bad idea with Iitrht-weight materials, if it is desired to have gowns that give such a close-fitted ap pearance, but if a woman is stout a heavier jiiyng is more becoming and holds the gown out better. All these details are what go to make life and clothes so fatiguing and bewildering. A silk underskirt is, of course considered essential to the well-being of any gown of this sort, and fortunately it is generally possible to find Such light weight in inexpensive ellks that have good wearing quality and make such good lining that it is quite possible even when economy has to be consulted for a silk-lined gown to be I more frequently seen than one lined with anything else. There was a time when the all-white gown was considered altogether the smartest a woman could wear. Then came the time when the white was relieved with color or KEEP THE FEET COOL AVOID PATENT LEATHEBS EN" HOT WEATHEB. Nothing tires one more than an overheat ed foot In summer, and few things occasion more colds than chilled feet In winter. Com mon sense in dressing the feet not only leads the way to comfort, but also to good health. Colored shoes are cooler than bla?k ones, and patent leather shoes are like well-heat ed ovens upon tender feet. It Is said that the treatment of black shoe* prevents the ventilation which colored shoes of the same thickness possess, and we all know that a black color concentrates, attracts and holds heat which would be diffused In light colors as light, Instead of heat. We have our vogue for light shoes, therefore, resting upon a sound basis of common sense, and it might be as well to dwell upon that fact and neg lect to consider some of the foolish lengths to which our present fashions In footgear lead us. Unless one dresses In black, colored shoes are an absolute necessity to every woman. The wealthy may buy anything they please, no matter how perishable it may be, and It is to the practical woman who 1? not wealthy that the following suggestions as to economy In smart footgear are addressed. All gowns may matched with calfskin ?hoes, frequently called "pumps," tinted In smart colors. They are strong, durable, keep their color well and may be easily cleaned with a rag dipped In equal portions of mine and water. Tan shoes are cleaned In the same manner. An admirable mixture Is sold, however, by big shoe shops which c co,ore"l leather shoes like a charm. The linen, silk and light wool gown should be matched with shoes of colored leather, and these are provided with spats of leath er, buttoned with self-tinted or contrasting buttons. Belts, too, of the same leather and hue may be had In the shoe department, for It Is very smart. Indeed, to match the shoes with belt and hat trimming and a little touch of the color upon the bodice of the town. Lingerie and white linen gowns will oe features of the summer worn with these fetching acoompanlments. Three other viry smart styles of shoes are provided for summer use. These are of men, of silk and of canvas. Never buy a really cheap shoe In these materials with any Idea that It will keep Its shape and look and wear well for long. Shoes of this character are made with the flat leather and silk bows of the pumps, and also with a short ribbon lacing to match the ?hoe. There are also low shoes, with side lacings of ribbon, that are very attractive, with their coquettish bows upon the sides. Many of the linen and silk pumps and shoes are embroidered in small figures over the toes, with cotton and silk embroidery floss. Soft silk gowns have shoes ot the C3awn> made up over color. Then there was a time when there must be a colored lining and colored ribbons, and now we have gone back again to the fashion o< wearing the all-white, and often there will be six or eight white gowns in what would be known as a simple outfit. * * ? A charming fad, although a decidedly ex pensive one, is that of always dressing in one color. The smarteet of all is dressing exclusively In white. This means of neces sity carriages of all kinds for every occa sion, as these same charming white gowns are most incongruous If worn too common ly, and especially in cars or public convey ances do they seem out of place. A perfect dream of a gotwn is an expression often heard in regard to some attractive model exhibited, and It is a criticism that certain ly applies to the white gowns this season. In the light-weight cloth, in the chiffon cloth In silk, crepe de chine and all sorts of wash materials the white gowns are re markably beautiful, while the laces used for trimming are of the finest texture and rare design. Real lace Is used in the most cas ual fashion, while there are no end of imi tation laces that are expensive and exclu sive enough to make them only possible for a few?the favored few?who can buy Just such clothes as they fancy without regard to cost. The panels of lace on a skirt, t'he lace coat, short or long, do not sound as same kind of soft silk In a heavier weave, and cotton and linen gowns are worn with the linen and canvas shoes, which, like silk shoes, may be procured In every color or made to order from pieces of the gown. They are Just as reasonable In price as a black shoe of the same make would be. Black shoes, with spats made from pieces of a gown, are both economical and smart. All the dainty colored shoes are Intended for day wear, as well as many of the ex quisitely made suede pumps and shoes, which are frequently embroidered upon the toe with appliques of cloth put on with tiny beads, ns well as with embroidery in tiny beads. Evening and house slippers of fancy silk and satin are particularly smart when trimmed with appliques of cloth worked out with tiny beads. Tills form of decoration has entirely superseded the old styles of embroidery upon shoes and slippers. It is good form to have the slippers Just as elaborate as a fancy arrangement of straps, open embroidery and tiny beadwork can make them, while gold, sliver and col ored slippers shot with gold and sliver threads take their places In the ranks of necessary smart footgear. Patent leather pumps, finished with edges and heels of green, red, white and gold, are having a vogue, and so are evening slippers decorated with silver and gold bows and) flowers. The cunning little bed room mule has a short vamp this season, and is made of any flowered silk or satin, with small wired flowers set on one side of the toe. Stockings match shoes In color and are In variably of lisle or silk, with a- preference for simple styles worked In small figures in ?Ilk. New Belt Buckles. In spite of the princess and empire fash Ions, which would seem to do away with need for belts and belt buckles, the shops show great quantities and any number of new styles both in belts and In separate buckles to be worn with ribbon belts or those made of the material of a gown. Broad girdles are shown, made of the most elaborate combination of linen, flowered silk, embroidery and lace. There are also broad crush girdles of linen and leather, embroidered and trimmed with lace. The newest Idea In buckles presents a combina tion of embroidery, metal and semi-pre cious stones or paste Jewels. Others show the same designs with beads used instead of the embroidery. These buckles are very remarkable and at the same time are really pretty. The buckles are afcnovt all large, being square, oval'or rectangular In shape. They are made of silver or nickel, tl.e frame being set with stones or made of cut steel. The center of the buckle is formed of a large branch of solid embroidered flowers, but although the embroidery is solid the flowers are cut out all around. The buckle, of course, has been made for this especial branch, and bafk of the flow ers is a metal piece, to ~wblch the flowers arr fastened. A rhinestone buckle had a spray of cherries used In this fashion. Grapes, apricots, little apples, currants and ?mall {teaches afe also used. The same 4e though n very new style, but there Is a great difference in the fashions from last year, and the only point In common Is that they are both white. A garden party gown of the finest white batiste or chiffon has a broad panel of yellowish lace down the j front and a short bolero of tho same lace. There is no trimming, excepting the lace, [ and no color of any kind, while the hat , and parasol are also guiltless of color. [ When color is introduced It is mo3t care fully done. Sometimes it consists in the hat and parasol matching In shade, as. for instance, red, pink or blue, or the hat will match the girdle or some tiny knots of color introduced into the skirt, but !n quite a different style from the ordinary use of color in a broad belt and sash, with hat to match. One reason for this is that the more delicate Shades of color are used, and if anything else is demanded it is, as 'twere, subordinated to the rest of the gown, besides which the beauty of the lace and the line workmanship are bo ar ranged as to show to the best advantage, while It Is contended that any brilliant color or unusual material used with lace or embroidery compels the first attention, and In that way the beauty of workman^ ship and material are entirely lost sight of. Unquestionably, the first thing" that strikes a keen observer of clothes this year Is the effort being made to introduce the princess and empire, and these are car ried out in the best effects In the white gowns. The short Jackets of lace and em broidery are most enchanting in detail, and, at the same time, If a rather bolder effect Is desired, without so much detail, the heavier panels of lace or embroidery can be had and so put on that they do not give the idea of too much elaboration. One of the greatest dangers to guard against is this very overelaboratlon. Embroidered laces look too heavy, as a rule, while the design of the laco Itself should not by rights be interfered with, but be put on flat, so that the pattern will show off the best. A few weeks ago there were sales of coats, and the woman who Invested in one of these is now much envied by her friends, who find it very hard to ob tain the copies of those others. The long lace coat is on the style of a wrap, but there are models which can be belted in or worn with a broad belt, which are Im mensely attractive over the skirts of chif fon, batiste, silk and even cloth. The heavier laces are the most effective, but lately there have been exhibited some Chantilly laces In the coats that are fas cinating and in which the fine thread of the lace shows off most beautifully. Black lace and black net gowns never signs are carried out In bead embroidery Instead of silk. Buckles made entirely of beads, especially in mourning beads, or white beads with a scattered sprinkling of color, are highly fashionable. Separate Lace Collars for Thin Frocks. Embroidery, lace of all kinds and lawn bias are used for the flat collars that are worn with cotton and linen dresses, which are simply mode for morning wear. Many persons prefer these gowns to be collarless; that is, without any neck band, and for such the collar fastened to one side Is one of the most attractive styles of the sum mer. The effect Is somewhat like that of a fichu, and It Is apt to be rather more be coming than a fichu, except to persons whose style especially flts them for the lat ter adornment. The modern young woman, with her well-set-up shoulders, square and broad, is far too bulky In effect, too athletic-looking for a fichu. The fichu is for the slender, drooping style of figure, that Is, In young women. Older women, who are content to-look matronly, may, of course, wear the fichu with more general success. But among young women, though there is nothing more charmingly becoming when It is suited to the figures it will not be found to be so very well suited In the ma jority of cases. A flat collar Is, of course, quite a different thing and Is apt to look more youthful than a fichu. The other two collars shown are to e worn either over a dress waist or with a waist that is cut low. That, indeed, is their real use. So many dresses for wear on summer afternoons and evenings are cut low that these collars or guimpes are quite necessary for occasions when high-necked waists are preferred. They can be worn over the waiBt as a collar or with the edges tucked under a a gulmpe. Infection. From Science. ? The Importance of educating the people in regard to the origin, means of dissem ination, and measures to be taken to pre vent the swead of Infectious diseases was briefly discussed by H. H. Waite In a re cent paper read before the economic sec tion of the American Association for the Advancement of Science. The Infectious diseases especially considered were tuber culosis, typhoid fever and diphtheria. The excellent chances of recovery from or ar rest of tuberculosis In Its early stages, pro vided the patient is given accurate instruc tion as to the regulation of his daily life, was strongly emphasized. Statistics from all parts of the world prov^that diphtheria antitoxin since its Introduction has reduced the death-rate by more than fifty per cent. Since its administration Is attended with little or no danger to the individual, the public should so clearly understand this as to demand its introduction as both a cura tive aad ? prophylactic nm?> ' an<l I ho amount of lice necessary- '' the the very expensive laces- a* *e)' as ",2 other trimming?, ruts it beyond (^^11 of the majority of the femln^e popula tWm There are no end of gowns made ur. on this style that turn out well and cost comparatively little, but they cannot be mnMamonK the very smar,patt*r? - the very popular ones. and ar 11 * generally popular ?? the white lace which cm he had for such a wide range of Embroidery on the material is never ah Inexpensive faahlon-that is. If the he tine and the work corr*^?"*?- Th ro are no end of imitation embroideries In the market, many of which are effect v<\ they entirely lack the elegance and b-autj of the real work. This Is so line and so dainty that wom< n are willing o pay large sum. for it and feel that their money la well spent Cr?p< dc chine and ch.ffon em broidered are tor the moment considered effective and attractive, but are not nearly go* popular us ft* embroidered batiste and organdie, and in truth are now being left f,,rwhat might be called occasional ?"? A, any fashionable summer rw.rt all jrrades of weight as regards dress ma ferial "are comfortable possibly 7''n vitiate hottest summer, but as a rule the hati.^ and organdie and wash materials are tne most satisfactory. The lace coats and em broldered and lace coats are wornl o, r the chiffon gowns and also over the wash ma terials but It is considered smarter to ha^e some" embroidery to match otherwise i- is thought the coat, even when on nature of a wrap, looks rather incongru t ,?nfrt) gown Of Irish lace embro.d erv shows off this fashion well for It is In gETS. ?& ttiat Is made of batiste and lace and embroidery to correspond Alth 1 Almost"llLTwft kid Is the quality of the oW? that the material is so much In de able that thPgP cloth gowns are man<t. Man\ - hile others are rather elaborately bra.dt^d. _ trimming of lace simple, excepting for? looks like or such heavy materl,^-Xoldery There cut work instead ^ opportunity for would seem to t>e a g ha> SJ foimd^ general ^ 1* come in I again In the early autumn. ? Sunbonnets for the Small Summer Girl Sunbonnets are undoubtedly the most attractive headgear for UtUe Klrl9 in summer. Of course, some mothers pr??r .o ~ '"^4 dren brown as a w ry ured to the hot sun so completely that they will not have to wear a bonnet. is a great question whether permanent LL..Z, "no. b, don, lo . *?? skin by such treatment, and In fact. the Uttio girls when blonde and delicate of skin frequently endure all manner of a*ony without ever becoming truly Inured to the sun which is not at all feared by the bru nette youngsters. The eyes, too.need pro; tectlon from the giarln* sun In spite or the philosophy of the hardening system. Con aequ^y shade hats and sunbonnets are not to be scoffed at even by mothers of the most inveterately out of door ln'an"_ One of the most attractive of the charm ingly quaint little bonneta ahown thle spring for the summer small girl Is a per fectly plain little poke bonnet made of pique or linen. There are no ruffles at all. The poke Is made of the material, corded at rare Intervals, and the crown which 111 not fathered but is fitted neatly In with Uttle Plelts. is buttoned on. The bonnet U trtanmed with rather wide ribbor wUh a bow on each side low down at the .Idee. Other new bonneta aomewliat the w.3?e in shape have the front piece 'wlhie.h louche. th? noke made of embroidered linen or 1 maue and ?ull crown and cape of softer materia" A plain embroidered edge bor d Then**?K? courae there are the bonnet. SSbw tend" of embroidery stretching from the CTFTowered^dlrnlty* bonnets are made with .K|1<10 ruffles all of which are e<igc<i witn VaS?cle"nei or with very narrow torchon Lace All-over embroidered bonnet, in pjnk. sa? a.-:rg aw? darkdg?yyblu?er. with the all-over embrold erv worked out In white, and a sort of crushed raspberry pink. aUo embroider^ed tn -white, are used. Inalde a ruffle of white always makes the bonnet more beoomlivg. These colored sunbonneta, however *-enot in fact so attractive, no matter how much theyare^eanbrotd ered, a. are the white one. In dassling pique linen or Without any ecntorowery ai at