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K 1 ?? % HE all-white work, which for several years now has held' first place in the favor of ntedlcwomen, has a new colorwork rival, and that new rival is a revival of German work of a century ago, the prett;est. quaintest work Imaginablecalled Bioiierniaier," after the artist who Invented it. . | Both the work of the empire and the fascinating embroidery characteristic of Marie Antoinette's day. and beloved by the aueen herself, are reflected In it. In a way, it Is but the German crystallisation of those Fiench idfcas, yet none the less original and clrirming for all that. All of i w<.rk Is clone upon ft particular kind of :cn?called Bierdermaier, too? that Is a German homespun and Is never Quite bleached, 30 that instead of being sharply white, 11 Is a creamy tint that makes an exquisite background for the colors. The d^si^ns thi-mselves make the fingers of a needlewoman fairly tinge to get at them. Baskets of fruit are set primly down to the corner*- of tablecovers, with trim sprays of blossoms and leaves and long llnna set fn sampler fashion about them. An orange or pomegranate tree Is made as round and conventional as the fomnns hnv tr?j? nf \V.is)iitio,tnn,R dav and the fruit is embroidered in vivid orange or crimson. And vase*?the graceful shapes of Italian and Pompeiian vases are chosen for itare done in outlining, tiie flowers they hold made solid and as gray ia color as they are small in size. There's n^ver any crowding of design, nor any unpleasant clashing of color. Indeed, so carefully are ihe combinations of color considered that many a piece is stamped in color, so that there may be no false note introduced, as was so often the case with the Jewel work of a few years ago?that done In embroidery entirely, not the Jewel work of today, which is done by embroidering bits of glass of different colors into a foundation. That, ^las! is forcing its way into an Americanized version of Bledermaier work ?the delicate, beautiful idea of the original reproduced, more crudely, by medns of those bits of glass. While it minimizes the work, it coarsens the Idea. As yet. It hasn't reached the pieces made for table use, for. fortunately, these jewel pieces won't launder well, and that Is the first requisite of table linen. The prettiest centerpieces are *>val In shape?that, by the way, !s characteristic of all the newest centerpieces, no matter what sort of embroidery they are designed for. When they are for Bledermaler work, the tree or vase or basket?one of the three is pretty sure to dominate the design?Is set In four places, or (as 1b gome that are particularly effective-)-in three, the rest of th? design balanced with true German nicety of construction. Silhouettes, as quaint a revival as any of the work, decorate, s^me of the more ambitions niece* hut t'nev are verv difficult to get "Just so." and unless thry are perfect are anything but attractive. One of the prettiest pillow tops done in Biedermaier work shows a silhouette, done upon u green background oval like a miniature, the rest of the design swirling away to two conventional little trees, set one at each Bide, In their green tubs. The golden browns and the gold-colored silks are used a great deal for th<? work; FOR A SERVICE AND CONVI Every modern house lias a pantry. True, It Is sometimes so small- as to be merely a passageway between the dining room and kitchen; but it is a big improvement on none at all, as was so much the rule In old-fashioned houses. A pantry to be of real service must be easily reached by the cook In her trips to and from the range, ?.nd should have a slide as well as door on the kitchen side. Indeed, many prefer Just the slide. This is, however, a mistake when but one maid is kept. A rather novel arrangement i?ir hucii a slide is to have 1t on the order of a turntable, moving but one way. This prevents n uch of the odor of cooking from eseaplng Into the dining room. If possible, have a pantry well lighted; at least one window Is indispensable. Formerly It was quite customary to build a dark closet, fit It up with a small sink and ft shelf or two and consider it high art in the pantry line. The sink should be as commodious as possible, and have In addition to an inclined grooved board at one side where dishes may be set to drain, a plate rack, where the liner ch Hit tan be deposited before drying instead of being piled in a dlsliti ii m If the space around the sink Is white tiled It will greatly facilitate perfect sanitary conditions Every other available spot In the pantry should be utilized for closet rooms. If fiosslble, have them wltl glass doors. You lave little Idea what an Incentive it proves to cleanliness and perfect neatness In a maid to have all her wares on parade. ? It were. * * * These closets may conveniently be divided tiito an upper and lower section, the oue reaching to the celling, the other to the floor. Between them should run an open paoe where dishes can be <iulckly placed during serving. This- does away with the MOews'.ty of a table in the pantry, for which Usually there is Httle room. The upper part is naturally devoted to kteutr.g china and glass; on the lower helves that In constant use; above It, for gala occasions. It Is also found convenient where space permits to devote aome of these upper seo tloas to storing the flner tinware, that la not In constant uae In the kitchen. Here may be kept the pudding, tine fruit, lady1'jok and tlmbale niolda, Ice cream and Jelly forms, cake cutters, the special pana reserved for the sole use of the mistress of the house when she bakes her family's favorite cake, the Whipped cream churn and the chafing dish. In this part of the pantry ahould alao go the afternoon tea outfit, with tray, hotwater kettle, an ever-atocked caddy and well-filled alcohol bottle In constant readiness: the children's lunch boxes that ar? In many families a dally task to prepare. ?uid the picnic baskets of wicker, which arc now so popular for summer outing-* In another section it Is well to keep a anr\r.1iaa mnrM \t ii n f\ RHiflrntp ion OU^'IIV?r ?MV?V ?? ?.?u? ? ? ..v. ? toreroom?such us loaf and powdered #ugar. lemons, pepper and salt, olives and crackers and cheese, nutmegs, vinegar, maple syrup, the nut candies and other little accompaniments of a well-served dinner. it Is frequently well to stock the pantry with a few canned goods, such as sardines or potted meats, so, when hungry young - , |? aftP- tlx theater, when B?imi ?oqRs Beat ^ almost all the lines which divide the design into set parts are outlined with one or the other, or in a good, strong, rather deep green. And coral pink finda a place on almost every piece. Practically no shading is done, but the leaves of a spray or the petals of a flower may be worked, one In each of several shades of the color. Little or no padding Is done, although nit: aiiiciics nit: bcl tsu uiuac niai mo cmbroidery stands out very well. Outlining, French knots and the over-and-over form of solid embroidery are the three stitchea used, except for the silhouettes, 'which are done in true Kensington stitch. An exception to the 110-padding rule is In the case of those pretty little trees. Then the oranges or pomegranates are always padded, so as to give them that prettily rounded look. There Is one mistake to guard agaJnst with Biedermaler work, and that la to see that It is used with the right china. There is a quaint old flowered china that U stunning with it, but unless you can have that, use the simpler gold and whit? china? anything that is not absolutely opposite in character. Dresden or Chinese medallion ware, for Instance, would both, dissimilar as they are, utterly destroy the quaint charm of the embroidery. Biedermaler adapts itself well to almost every sort of purpose that embroidery Is put to; pillow tops, bureau sets, work bags, table covers and the prettiest centerpieces 3 ^11 i t. rtll mav tio m o ? mnui ,ttiiu uunica?ail inaj ...uw ? ttye by ite use. The pattern given Is the exact size for applying to each corner of a square table cover. Lay a hem an Inch and a half to two inches wide, a#3 hemstitch it before, applying the design. The finished square should not measure less than twenty-six Inches, and It may be madft a yard wide. Lay impression paper over the linen and the pattern oil that, and go over the lines with a hard pencil. Repeat the design in each corner. Make the centers of the blossoms of bright yellow, setting Ave French knots close together. Those are the only French knots in the design. Outline vase and the bars across it, and the lines about the design, and do the rest solid. I ABLE ZNIENT PANTRY maids have retired, they may have close at hand means for an impromptu supper, without a raid on cellar or storeroom. * * The section of the pantry beneath the central open shelf may be divided so a* to greatly facilitate the waitress' work. First should come shallow drawers, divided into felt-lined compartments to keep the small silver in when not in use. Here alto should be kept a corkscrew, a can opener, several sharp knives, a glass lemon squeezer, a nutmeg grater, a shaker and an lc?- shfredder. Similarly divided drawers ran be utilized to hold plate dollies, trayclotli-s and napkins, while at the back are long, narrow divisions where centerpieces can be stored without creasing on pasteboard rolls. Beneath may be deeper drawers for tablecloths, while to the side Is a very deep drawer tor soiled linen. In this underpart should be shelves to hold the stone bread Jar and tin cakebox. Another department may be devoted to dust pan and brush, broom, sweeper, brushes tor the sink and can of concentrated lye for cleaning drains, scrubbing | orusu miu DULKct. several pieces 01 cnamoia I and a large supply of clean dusters. j One of the wooden chairs that Is convertible Into a small stepiadder, tall enough to reach the upper shelves of a "Closet, Is of great use In a pantry. * * * If one Is not lucky enough to possess a built-in refrigerator?many of them now come with the ice box opening on a porch, so it may be tilled from the outside?there should always be at least a small Ice chest In the pantry, where grape fruit, raw oysters and salads may be keDt chilled till th? last minute before serving. For a small family one of the little sick-room refrigerators Is often big enough. The cost of such a pantry can scarcely be estimated. Naturally, the glass doors add somewhat to the expense, but, as a rule, the pantries built In the modern houses are convenient and fairly commodious. While many scoff at white woodwork as Impracticable, if given several coats and a high enamel finish, it has the advantage of being easily scrubbed and kept clean. Nor will It crack and wear off In the way a dancer stained woodwork too often has. Complete kitchen and pantry outfits are now sold. These include most of the utensils necessary to cook and waitress. A very good collection, containing most articles necessary to the' ordinary household may be had for $18. They range in price from this to the $100 outfit, which Includes everything Imaginable, from a gas range, refrigerator, zinc-top table, Ice cream freezer and garbage can to adjustable kettle knobs and a sink scrub. Pepper Hash. Take two and a half dozen green peppers and remove the seeds from half. Chop line miu mix wnii i wo liara ilea a* or caDDage. chopped, and two dozen onions. Mix well together and put Into a stone crock or wooden bowl, sprinkle with a large cup of salt, and let stand twenty-four hours. Drain dry as possible, pressing out the water. Put a gallon of cider vinegar In the preserving kettle with a cup of brown sugar, half a cup white mustard seed, and half an ounce ceiery seed. Heat to the boiling point and turn scalding hot over the peppers. Just before turning the vinegar over, stir through the pepper mixture one cup grated horseradish. If kept in a cold place this pickle will be crisp and delicious j orO II *' * ?g ? *.+* J" ^ V '__~n^L -Liiu^dftfelffi I, J&l 'i .;? ~:V ' r I /l (N ' r-- - > c&f/vng Co/or/ejds w/o //?<s 5 ?fl?i 0 ^9 HINTS FOR OUTFITS FOR COLLEGE GIRLS Writeen for The Star by Mrs. A. T. Ashmore. The majority of girls now starting oft for boarding echool or college must have their entire winter outfit ready before commencing the first term, although, of course, the girl living near town or who goes to school In a large city can procure many of the necessary costumes after she Is settled for the winter. Even for these girls, however, it is well to have prepared to take away at first as complete a wardrobe as possible, for shopping or constant tailor and dressmaking appointments are scarcely consistent with hard study, delightful as the girl will find anything to break the first tedious monotony. The Important part of the school girl's outfit Is her everyday dress that Is to be worn In the class room and on the regular walks?that Is. if the school is in a city. The best suit for the purpose Is a heavy. dark cloth, made wiui a snore circular or plaited skirt and a simple, well-fitting Jacket, and then there should be at least two waists for this dress?one of cloth the samo as the skirt, for cold weather, and a lighter bodice of silk or washable flannel to wear when a lined waist would be uncomfortably warm. All the waists should have long sleeves and be trimmed with as little white lace or embroidery as possiole. rni'* la nrattioat flniahoH vlmnlv X HO QUA UUUH,VJ ? |/? V*MV?? -<....r.tf with embroidered linen or lingerie collar and cuffs that are only buttoned or basted in, so that they can be always fresh and neat. The cloth waist should also be made quite simply, with Just a little lace or embroidery at the throat and wrists, and this also put in in auch a way tliat it can easily be replaced. One or two wash flannel waists and perhaps Just a few heavy linen bodices, *" " ? ? ? f? ?? *li?i flrat mnnlh alY nroal/a IU mo nu? II iu? ?-??v> D? will be all that Is necewary for the autumn and winter. A pretty plaid dress of coloring that harmonises with the shade of the cloth suit will be found attractive for the school room and a relief Instead of wearing the one suit day in and day out. Even for the college girl this dresa should be made short, with full plaited skirt, and the walBt must have long sleeves. For afternoon and for Sundays a smart suit of corduroy, velveteen or light cloth is necessary. If the girl has graduated to long skirts this afternoon costume may be long or walking length, as desired, although a train to a skirt always makes the gown dressier. This, too, should be a three-piece gown, with an elaborate white waist, to be worn when preferred to the lined bodice. For the evening two or three pretty frocks of silk, roll* and crepe de chine are ial ^utines ldGB w/vi y ^ 1 <&j]Z)oudfe . a Y\ r\(T )fci. Q. f necessary. The pretty red dress will be found useful, as the pale shades soil so distressingly soon. One nice white gown should always be Included, for there Is no other gown which looks well on such a variety of occasions, and then white Is apt to clean better and more often than any decided or perishable shade. These evening gowns should not be very elaborate, and decollete bodices are rarely permitted at sohool, even for the older girls. The pretty and becoming Dutch neck Is still fashionable and Is an attractive finish for a young girl's evening dress. Besides the gowns hefe mentioned there are always the extra waists and coats to be thought of, and each suit must have Its hat and furs. Still, simplicity should rule, and it is a great mistake and in extremely poor taste to fit out a school girl elaborately. SIMPLE SACHETS. After covering the sachet with Its silk and cheesecloth cover the pad should then be tacked or tufted with baby ribbon In order to prevent the sachet from sifting all to one end. Sllkollne does very well for these sachets, and generally a woman will have in th? house some pretty bits of silk that can be utilized in this fashion. Compounding these sweet powders seems quite a feminine task and Is one that any woman can accomplish. One of the simplest methods of making a good sachet la to take the desired quantity of cypress powder, which Is the basis of all sachets, and add to it triple essence of any favorite odor or mix it with the essential oils. For a good violet sachet take fifteen parte of cypress powder, eight parts of orris root, three parts of coriander seed, one part each of mace and violet ebony and one-half part each of cassia, cloves, musk seed, sandalwood. Each day the ingredients should be powdered coarsely and mixed thoroughly. Some women prefer heliotrope to violet, and to obtain this scent take half pound of rose petals, one-quarter pound of tonka beans, one pound of orris root, one-eighth peund of vanilla, one dram of musk and eight grains of oil of bitter almonds. Another fragrant sachet which. It la said. may be used aa a cosmetic powder for the face and neck when largely diluted with talcum pwder, la made from one pound of orris root, two ounces each of sage, sandal* wood, vetlver, one dram of musk, one-half dram of civet, thirteen grains each of oil of nerolt, santal and rhodium. While lavender sachet is liked by soma, It Is used mainly to lay In the linen closet between the plies of snowy flai. For this take five ounces of dried lavender flowers, one and a half ounces of benzoin, three nnnoM of cvnress oowder and three-ouar ters of a dram of oil of lavender. Women who like perfumed powders for their wardrobes are pretty generally fond of burning paatiles for perfuming their rooms, and while It Is possible to buy this Incense, It Is much cheaper to make it at home, which can be done very easily. A delightful formula for making aromatic sticks Is compounded of one ounce each of powdered sandalwood and ben- I iBMAN ' ' Xk... ; v < S ?k> V - .. s . . v.?- ?*. " ' . - i iit. ' '"' V' ' '?;<} , - !?'?' ?.ft - - | - T, t$ 4*^5S7& Grew \ \.d& ft / Coral 9* - " u Q 22/ Cr.wn i * zoln. three-quarters of an ounce of powdered ollbanum. one-half ounce each of nnwrturprt na *r?? HI la ninnnmnn pIava* anfl niter and thres and a half ounces of powdered charcoal. With gum tragacanth mix together tnto three-Inch sticks. Square Styles in Best Taste. Letter paper Is for the moat part square, that size being considered the best taste for notes?and are unusually diminutive even for the use of youngsters, for the envelopes are only about one and a half Inches square, while the sheets are a trifle less than three Inches square, or just large enough to fit smoothly In the envelope after being folded once. The flaps on these envelopes are long and pointed, reaching almost to the bottom. A few styles of the mottled note papers have oblong envelopes with flaps in which ] mere are two or three curved scallops. These are decidedly pretty and will probably be more used by little girls tlian the square shapes, though the latter hare a smarter appearance. The envelopes are about two Inches long and an Inch wid?, while the sheets that fold once are a bit less than four Inches long, and a trifle under two Inches In width. The note paper that is decorated with childlike designs to please and Interest youngsters Is much larger than the novelty varieties, and the pictures of little girls skipping rope, or of a boy flying a klfa are placed near the top like monograms, A tViot (liAu will K* aoawfr A *><9 '?A viubb rr ??? iro O.UU UU>llUUl irUIJl the writing on th? body of the sheet and will In this way show to advantage on a larger piece of paper, where the effect would be lost on a small one. These pictures -n delft blue, vivid pink, green bright red, attract even small children, and some of those that Illustrate Mother Goose rhymes bring screams of delight from the little boys and girls who recognise Little Boy Blue or little Miss Muffet, etc. Most of these are of white paper, so that the decorations wjll show up. though a few are In light pastel shades on which the vivid colors make a pretty contrast. Very Old Doll. Do you know that over two hundred yean *co * Mk ship went out to America with a passenger on board whose acquaintance you could still make If you were In that country? And what do you think that passenger was? A doll. The ship on which it sailed waa one In which an Englishman, William Penn, went to America. He had been there before. atiu w n?c tic new uaun at uume lie lOlu I liis little girl that the children In tne country he had been visiting had no toys at all. She was so very sorry for them that she asked her father to take at least one doll out and give ft to some little girl there, says Home Ghat. It was a very grand doll, with a dress of velvet and brocade; and after all this time It is still kept carefully, to be shown now and theu to American children. <v y? WOR] ru Oof^ rexfrepiece A \C ?o blossoms k CWA \^>0) / v>7 Va&e.. \ Ocrllcned A inOold 1/ H ^ L? The Fall Coiffure The new autumn coiffures afford to every woman the opportunity to make herself attractive If she will. The word "coiffures" Is used advisedly, for fashion no longer demands that women of all types and degrees of loveliness?and even those of no apparent loveliness at all?shall slavishly follow one mode, whether It is becoming or not. That sort of "fashlonableness" was so flagrantly overdone In the case of the exaggerated pompadour that nowadays the really modish woman Is distinguished less by her close adherence to the fashion of the moment than by ber ingenious adaptation of It to her own Individual requirements. In ony one essential detail is Madame la Mode at all arbitrary, and that Is In the matter of waving the hair. It is not good form' to be so palpably Marceled as to suggest Involantary thoughts of the curling Iron to every beholder; but one simply must display a wealth of softly waving locks this season, or submit to be considered hopelessly out of date. All the new millinery seems to have been modeled for youthful faces and luxuriant tresses, and the outlook would be distinctly dreary for the woman who cannot lay claim to either asset, were it not possible to assume a virtue, even though one have it not. Fortunately, however, a becoming ar rangement of the hair will go a long way toward Investing the face with youthfulnesi and charm. If not with actual beauty. The moderately high coiffure will prevail during the coming winter with outdoor toilets. While the fashion of wearing the liair low on the neck will be popular for evening and Indoor dress among the younger women. ? * * The low coiffure, though charming. Is not at any season of the year adapted for the street, but with the winter costume It Is simply unthinkable. In fact, no matter how well the hair Is cared for, constant contact wiin it Will meviiauiy icguu in a creasy-looking spot on the collar of gown or coat, while a fur collar or boa will quickly assume a mangy appearance that la, to say the least, unlovely. Moreover, It Is" virtually impossible to keep the modern hat securely In place when the hair Is dressed low, while there Is foTvariably a hiatus between the hat trimmings and the coll of hair that Is not only Inartistic, but distressingly untidy. In the high coiffure the hair Is waved softly and gathered Into a loose coll on the crown of the -head, the front arrangement being managed with a view to forming a becoming frame for the face. A youthful effect Is produced by the simple addition of a smart ribbon bow, placed a little on one side. Just where the coil and the front hair meet. Large tortoise shell pins are used for fastening the coll, and the loose locks are secured with invisible wire pins. False curls are no longer worn by women ot taste. Occasionally a jeweled >??in sJLLJl ft ? % r~ ' a ^ 1 <BIoj?Qms> d o ?e&i/e& \>> tight c\ o gfcqh Mi/ ? A s2?j?ouui barette Is used for keeping In place th? stray nape locks. Side combs are nulte out of date, biit one really handsome high comb of Spanish or empire design is often worn at the back, partiy as a support and partly as a finish . to the coil. Without some such addition the high coiffure looks rather Incomplete and la apt to slip out of place. When worn with a low coiffure the comb is placed Immediately above the coil or braid. Usually, however, the comb Is omitted when the hair i? dressed low. With the latter style of hair dressing the front hair may either be parted Madonna wise or on the side, after the igHsaion or u ^\igion, or it may ne waved back loosely from the face without parting. * * * Among the new hair ornaments are ao many dainty and arftiatlc devices that the woman with a weakness for looking her best will find it hard to resist them. Exceptionally pretty for evening wear are the glittering moths and dragon flies of spangled gauze, one of which?apparently poised lightly on the hair, but In reality fastened invisibly with a shell hairpin?Imparts a charming piquancy to the simplest toilet. Then there are coquettish iltUe bows of Louis Seize design, made of wired gauze or ribbon and sparkling with tiny Iridescent sequins, and these almost any dexterous needlewoman might duplicate for herself at small cost. Tha fnvnHtfl nolnrs In d?fntv trl. flea are the various shades of rn?e. hellotrope and mauve; but the same ornament! . are charmingly duplicated In black, with glittering sequins of jet. These latter may appropriately be worn with mournlug toilets. though they are adapted to any occasion. A novel Jet ornament for a high colf-v fure consists of a narrow coronet with a ' Mercury wing on either side. On a goldenhaired beauty of statuesque proportions and perfect profile this unique ornament would be simply stunning. One invariably recalls the words of the old song. "She Wore a Wreath of Ro.W when one glances at the exquisite flower wreaths Included among the late Importations from Paris. These are not always made of roses, however, being quite as often composed of a serai-coronet of maidenhair fern, with a single orchid In the center. Some pretty wreaths display clusters of tiny "button" roses, made of satin rib-' bon and combined with sprays of artificial fern. Wreaths of heather and forget-me-not are eiiiiniiuiii?ij pieny una uia rair to become extremely popular; but It should be borne In mind that these floral chaplets can be appropriately worn only by debutante? and the younger women. Quince Marmalade. Peel, core and cut In small pieces yellow quinces; weigh the fruit, then put into a kettle with cold water; cook gently until quite tender. To every pound of fruit allow three-quarters of a pound of sugar. Rlnee the preserving kettle with cold water, then put in the drained quinces and sugar in alternate layers, with the fruit as the flr.itlayer; heat slowly, stirring almost con- , stantly. then simmer until quite t>'ck. Four into glasses and cover when cold.