Evening star. [volume], October 14, 1906, Sunday star, Page 3, Image 51

About Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972

Image provided by: Library of Congress, Washington, DC

                
?
"VELVET H2YT W~:
spring bonnet, dear to the I
jj heart of the professional joke '
* writers, no longer occupies that j
supreme position in the world of t
millinery that would justify its 1
being the subject of prose and poetry.
Four times a year at least does the fashionable
woman of today consider it absolutely
essential to her welfare and happiness
to sally forth in a new creation of
the milliner's art. and the spring bonnet
Is merely included in the general outfit of
the year.
Autumn and winter fashions are now s
absorbing the attention of the feminine e
world, arid those gifted beings who have c
furnished the des gns this season have cer- e
olnlv oi'Alvnfl franc tn tmsnoro the mnat _
penurious, for surely never before was s
there such a bewildering display of new jshapes,
new colors and new materials In a
the way of headgear. There are no end of c
mart, rather eccentric, shapes that re- a
quire a close study of the right angle to
be becoming. There are exaggeratedly *
large shapes on the picture order, which T
demand a coiffure In keeping, while there c
are also endless varieties in shapes among j!
tha more reasonable medium sizes. The J
prices asked for the so-called unique shapes :
are rather overwhelming, but, wh le there J
are plenty or women wm can anora 10 choose
the hats they like without stopping
to ask the price, there are many more who '
must needs stop and consider carefully the ?
amount of money they have to spend. *
These last will find this season that their
lot in lifu is not so pathetic after all, for
there never were so many smart and be- *
coming hats of medium price to be had as ?
at the present time, and to wear an unbe- *
coming hat is simply a proof of lack of "
taste?a lack of vanity rather than poverty. 1
When the question of expense does not I
enter into the choice of a winter's outfit !
there must needs be a hat to match every :
gown, but it Is quite possible for a woman J
to get along and look smart also with two '
hats?one on the simple, rather severe, or- s
der for everyday wear, and one more elab- 6
orate for afternoon. Theater hats are another
proposition. It being considered obli- J
gatory to wear hats, and those oil the pic- J
tnro nrripr if nrrunvine a. box. In the or- *
dinary orchestra or 'balcony seats no hats E
are allowed, so the term theater hat Is 1
somewhat ambiguous. The so-called thea- ?
ter hat Is a most elaborate affair, and Is, 1
In truth, the same that is worn for dining a
or supping at a public restaurant. ?
* 1
* *
Soft felt and beaver hats trimmed with *
stiff wings, ribbon or velvet bows are most ?
attractive this season and are to be seen p
both in light and dark colors?color, by the a
way, playing an all-important part in this ''
season's millinery. The stiff, bright-col- 0
\ T
ored wings might puzzle an ornithologist ti
to decide to what manner of bird they be- t
longed, but Dame Fashion does not hold to
the belief that nature unauornea is always s
the most desirable, and the a d of bright i;
colors furnished by the dyer's art often s
produces a more satisfactory colored plu- j
mage than the original. There are not li
many hats with trimmings of the same t
color, a twist of velvet in some sharp contrast
and a large bow at the side, if bright
wings are not used, being thought very
smart. Both velvet and ribbon bows play
an all-important part In trimmings, and
it is marvelous how many different effects ^
are secured by the clever arrangement of f
rosette, cockade or a mass of stiff bows t
piled one on top of the other and covering j
the entire side of the hat.
The different angles at which the hats 11
are worn are most bewildering, although c
now the back and front of the hat are t
more clearly defined and it is no longer i
pOSSlUll', as it WclB lust a^iiug, iw ?cai tiic |
front at the back. All the smaller shapes ! c
are bent or folded. and the shaggy felts ,
and beavers are more used than the stiff i 1
ones, and this notwithstanding that there r
are many very attractive shapes with stiff.
Unyielding crowns and brims. s
In larger shapes velvet hats are to be e
seen made over both stiff and soft founda- r
tlonM Many of the brims are turned down [ r
In the mushroom effect, as it is called, but I s
this is not to be rashly recommended, as the 3
shape is a very trying one. It is still fash- 1
lonable to have trimming beneath the brim. , s
and. Indeed, there are many hats which ' t
appear to have more trimming underneath I 1
the brim than on the hat itself, masses of | (
maline, in which are half hidden sprays i '
und plumes, fill in the space between the , 1
hat and the hair that even the fashionably j f
full coiffure has failed to do. while often 1
till wings or ostrich tips are placed at the x
?ide and back under the brim.
* t
* * | <
Ostrich feathers are -more fashionable 1
than ever, and there Is no limit to the j
length that is used. Placed around the t
Crown and drooping down to the shoulders c
- ?? ? ' ? oriH <
IS IKH I UIISIUVICU IUU V.\U(,QV>|?IV.U, U..v> I
Ahe fullest of feathers' are In great demand, j J
There is uga n a note of the picturesque in j ,
these feather-trimmed shapes, the drooping j J
brim and the long featiier having more t
than a mere resemblance to old English
prints of demure maid and maiden,
while the always becoming ami popular
Gainsborough is also represented both in
the black and colored velvet or soft beaver
hats. The long black plume and the pink c
and yellow rote, half hidden in the folds f
of maline. appeils irresistibly to almost ]
every woman, and the only danger is that \
the fashion will become too popular, espe- >
daily as it requires careful treatment and
can easily be caricatured.
AH black hats, fortunately for the eco- r
nomically minded, tire to De immensely i ^
fashionable and will be worn with all sorts j t
of gowns. With the light theater gown i 'I
the all-black hat Is once again oons dered | ?
smart, and. it must be admitted, is often | t
more becoming and effective than the col- I t
ored. although the pale pink, b'.ue and I I
yellow hats art' most charming and dainty.
Black hats with colored wings are very
smart at the moment, but it s not safe to
count on their being so for any Ungth of
time. Invariably In the early autumn do c
these black hats with bright trimmings J t
find favor, and almost invariably as the 1 r
eaaon advances are they quietly but tirmly <j
.. IS.
4<"x y
* - i k ^ ^
^tIv^^Mi " * I^^kIII^
'" *'-5' " Mm /
.. . - ^WB
?T/
;..-' v- ./ /// j
ITti OSTRICH "RLUME
jushed into the background. A favorite
nodel is a most demure stiff black velvet,
vim low crown ana turnea-aown Drim.
Ground the crown is a wreath of bright
-oses veiled in black tulle. With this is
*'orn a lace veil and a quaint old-fashoned
effect Is given. In sharp contrast
s a soft black velvet toque, with trimmings
>f bright, fancy wings and bows at
jack under the brim, and two red roses,
ilso veiled by tulle?in fact, it is a decided
'ad to have all bright flowers veiled in this
'ashion.
* *
While the all-black hat Is, as has been
>ald, worn with any gown, It is considered
ilmost essential with a smart or elaborate
:ostume to have the hat match It In color
ind often In material. The style now so
>opular of trimming cloth with velvet the
ame shade, or rather darker, and then to
lave a narrow waistcoat and the collar
ind cuffs of the jacket of some contrasting
olor makes it easily possible to evolve
l most attractive hat to correspond. A
;own of the new petunia red cloth trimmed
vlth velvet just one shade darker Is
iharmlngly trimmed with facings of pale
rreen embroidered in black and white. A
lat of the velvet to match exactly can
hen be trimmed with ostrich plumes or
ips, according to which is the best suited
o trie snape inai is cnosen, wnne 11 it is
lesired to introduce some lighter color by
vay of contrast It can easily be accom lished
by having a white rose or gardenia
pith green leaves In the folds of tulle or
lalf hidden under the ostrich feathers.
Gray In the new shades would be exremely
trying were It not relieved by
ome color contrast. So in the gray cosumes
are trimmings In which is Introuced
green, red, pink or yellow. The hat
o match, of velvet or felt, with its big
>lume and stiff gray wings, is made charmngly
becoming at once with the color inroduced
by the flower or flowers, and for
hose women who complain that the all>lack
hat is too hard in its outlines the
ame method may be employed of using
;nmp flnwpp that is bpcomine'.
It Is interesting this season to note the
jreat variety and apparently often dianetrically
opposed styles that are fashonable.
The demure and the dashing are
o distinctly at variance that it seems im>ossible
they can both be in fashion at the
lame time, and yet in the one outfit will
>e Included those styles already described
md the others that have high crowns, or
:t all events high trimmings, and a most
lashing appearance; but In truth the day
ias gone by when three, or at the most
lalf a dozen, shapes were furnished the
;enera! public with the pleasing informa-.
ion that these six. and these only, were
lossible. and that to wear anything else
t once marked a woman as being hopesssly
behind the times. Xow the number
f shapes is practically without limit, and
rhile there must needs be something that
lenotes they are of this year's design,
here is no cast-iron rule to be followed.
This was exemplified when the absurdly
mall hat came into fashion. It was a style
mpossible for the great majority, and conequently
the clever designers straightway
irovided other models to choose from,
saving the tiny shapes for those to whom
hey were becoming.
* *
All the hats now do possess one point in
ommon?they show the hair, and conseuently
the coiffure must always be careuily
locked after. Unfortunately, since
ne CUiCt went lorui nicii curia, puna uim
ull side pompadours were fashionable
nany women have apparently neglected to
onib and brush their hair sufficiently, and
he general effect has been hopelessly ugly,
'he present style of coiffure requires most
areful attention, and must invariably be
;ept in most perfect condition, for, as has
leen said, all the new hats display so
nuch of it.
It is, of course, quite too. early in the
eason for fur hats, but they are to be
xtremeiy fashionable this w.nter and aleadv
are to be seen among the exclusive
nodels in millinery. The toque and turban
hapes are, as usual, to be seen, but there
ire also more quite novel designs made on
he same lines as the felt or velvet. In
harp contrast are the tulle and lace hats
rimmed with fur that are to be worn with
heater and reception gowns. Only the most
xpens ve materials are used in these lace
md fur hats, so, as may well be imagined,
hey cost considerable money; but at all
:vents they show what they are, and the
>rice demanded is not merely for the individuality
of shape and style.
There are many different qualities in the
elt and beaver used in the new'hats. Some
ilcsely resembled the cloth of the costume,
md. In fact, cloth itself is often used;
ithers art- almost shaggy, like fur. Satin,
oo. Is In fashion again, while satin com>incd
with velvet :s thought effective. This
ombination. as well as the plain satin,
:ame into style last winter and was not
miversally popular, but apparently has
aken a new lease of life, for certainly there
tre many extrem<dy smart hats made In
his fash on and tmnmed with flowers, stiff
ligrettus or ostrich feathers.
Jet Ornaments.
Jet ornaments, which will be a feature
f the coming season, especially where hair
iccessories are concerned, should be kept
perfectly clean a?d bright, dust being
try apt to collect in the intersticea The
)est method of cleaning them is to imnersc
the ornaments in a mixture com
losed of equal parts of vinegar and water,
vhere they should be left to steep
hcroughly for about a quarter of an hour
1'hPy should then bo taken out of the vinetar
and spread on a clean sheet of paper
o dry. The vinegar helps to give back to
ho jet the orig-na! luster, and greatly im>roves
its appearance.
tfo Cuilrng Fluids for Children's Hair.
No curling fluids should ever be used for
'nildren's hair; but if too dry, a little
irilliantine, rubbed well into the roots, will
iromote a healthy growth, and further Intuce
a pretty wave and curl.
* ?
#
lv? JL iivrn^s
2^narl?Picl
?3.Tnd Ef?e<
v TLM .
^^FELT
f^^|T
T?JsTC?L
WH1TE1 TSLUT
Caps for Small Infants too h
light?
lng t
BABIES' caps are, of course, one of the waist
articles which most deserve and re- en^g{
quire the daintiness of handwork. In USCd
this age, when every garment of a eyele
woman's or child's wardrobe, as well the j
as almost every one of her toilet, desk or ment
drawing room accessories, calls aloud for ?abje
a like luxury, the cry of one more hand- Italia
made necessity is a little appalling. heavl
An/1 Xrnf- oil tViin?rcr In ?
ntiu jr V.V Vi. ?*?? uiMijjO ? kite nutiu (X "r
baby's cap Is certainly the one on which
friends and relatives may afford to expend ruch<
the best efforts of their needles. )s u4
The most beautiful of all babies' caps are Fren<
of exquisitely tine handkerchief linen. Here -pioye
again, as in the case of the handwork, ex- };atg
travagance is to be pardoned. Linen of
very fine quality costs a great deal, but the
money is well expended In this direction.
Batiste, fine nainsook and lawn, China , >
silk, peau do eole and satin are also used
for babies' caps. If possible only real lace clcan
snouiu uk eiiiijiu^eu. vjr, 11 unuauon i"? e
used, only a little should be emjjltfyed* earth
and that should' be fine In quality and of skin
dainty design. Very handsome little caps Inch
are made entirely of real la'ce. They are ment
tight fitting, with only a tiny ruche around care
the face for trimming, and are lined with be le
soft China silk. _Thes? may be of guipure. At tli
of baby IrLsh, of Irish point, or, In fact, out a
t
At
in
vresque, 1?j
dive e/We
1 trr t
3LT1CL Velvet
wSm
' *:^ ** 5^ ^
, V eluded by
' \V , command, ai
" only visits 1
ffllX 'fe ' V- j Even such :
vT< |V . /, parents as i
' I '' W ' * ** administer a
> a ; '??*' " 1 dent trained
Q\} of a mI?'on<
^ f<* -- 't: ' to an unma
' ot necessity
oome times
horses tail
coming: expi
of rich youi
IrEPOL. o
From Dress.
most any handsome lace that is not Skirts, exi
eavy in texture. Irish crochet of the ??wn Jra t
>r varieties is beautiful, but that hav- =
he large, heavy motifs so popular for tlle sldes as
trinlming is hardly handsome or fine evening gov
rli for the baby's cap. gatory. Mc
h French and Irish embroidery is
on the caps, the fashionable English . .
t embroidery not being so good for jpoael tnat
jurpose. The embroidery Is supple- ,r?9. ar0HJ
ed with insertions of Irish lace or With f
ire or Valenciennes. Very beautiful having beei
s' caps are also made of the all-over ln winter co
n embroidery, which is done on *nd "J081 el
er linen In small designs partly of lingerie um
work, partly of embossed embroidery. . n?ce8s
ruchings are usually used on the caps 18 /ar ?
of wash material and liberty silk abbreviated
>s for the silk caps. Narrow ribbon Burnmer. I
sed to trim the simpler caps and undersleevei
eh knots are most successfully em- ar? ey ,,? ,
d as a substitute for the more elabo- est ?r ? ,
embroidery. ?n niaterial
, texture. N
( lace win o
Cleaning Cloth Coats. win be mad
awn cloth coat or waistcoat can be ?on- Thes?
ed satisfactorily at home -by rubbing s^^eMenUtU
;arment over with pulverized fuller's
, using a small dry sponge or rubber ,T _
brush for the purpose. When every t>urllnj
has been gone ovty carefully the gar- A black le
should be pi.t a^ay in a box, taking be kept in (
to leave the powder In it, and should tablespoonfi
ft untouched for three or four days, spoonfuls of
le end of that time it should be taken the bag. A
,nd well brushed and beaten. should be p
Ufl JN
radios!
s ixx /
HHA
HHII
mm t
** '? ' 8
r
ipsa :
mmmm. ?
t
b
lughter of Millions \
t
e
the daughter of a household j
imarried and the child of mil- 0
i It sometimes becomes a prob- ^
w how she shall SDend her
- - V
Usefulness In the way of s
ith household duties Is pre- a
tho abundance of money at '
id, since she is unmarried, care ?
ler in connection with herself, i
little administrations to ailing t
jvere formerly her privilege to e
;re now attended to by a resl- f
nurse. Indeed, the household t
lire affords so little occupation a
rrled daughter that she must c
tol/o untft Vl D rool f O tr\A ^
vi*nv uiivu ? lau.
this becomes the development j.
n art, literature or music. She {
ork in all seriousness, yet the a
attempts to overstep the bor- t
nateur she is looked upon with
as one taking the bread from ^
y mouths. She meets" indeed t
nt discouragement. No matter \
:nt she may become in music, s
1 are lnvariablv palled in trt 6
entertainment for her friends; r
odigy in art, her works can f
to compare with those hanging s
ier's walls, while in literature *
[uite well the keenness of mod- o
tion. Almost Invariably the c
of talent is set aside for a s
inced fad. 1
be working among the poor, an c
vhlch often becomes so engross- i
i family complain they see lifting
of their daughter. It is s
hen, as one millionaire put it, t
not take it into her head to 1
tie ruffian and introduce him i
lftpholri 1
lerciful fad among rich young
that of preventing cruelty to
riiey have provided summer
:ats and been influential in In:raw
hats for horses. Englishreover,
have at length set the
r displeasure on the cutting of
s. Indeed, horsiness and besrt
whips Is the recognized fad
ng Englishwomen.
Modish Skirts.
:epting for the practical street
0 be long?long In front and at
1 well as at the back?while for
rns the long train skirt Is obll>st
graceful lines are a noticee,
and the always becoming
fits closely around the hips and
id the foot is the favorite, as
nown from the empire fashion
1 accepted. Sleeves, excepting
>ats. are still short, medium size
aborate In detail. The lace and *
Jersleeve Is aii expensive but '
lary detail of the smart gown, 1
nore becoming than the sharply j 1
elbow sleeve of the spring and , 8
n fact the charmingly dainty j *
i and kerchiefs of olden times j 1
y to be revived, with their tini- ! (
les and wonderful embroideries ' 1
so fine that It is of cobweb ; 1
arrow ruffles and ruchings of : c
e much used on sleeves, and i *
e of lace and ribbon and chif- I ?
are minnr riotaila hut I c
? ? ? - ??p ItWllb illQ j *
nt in these days when detail is t
L I
a
r Fluids for Children's Hair. *
ather traveling bag can always '
capital condition by mixing one 1
il of sweet oil with two table- i
milk and rubbing this well into i
fter it has thoroughly dried It
olished with a chamois leather. 1
lUlILLf
WEST A
V yfi - \ jSBnfiBBl^&F
g^mrn. ^fpjj Mjj^^'
TOQTJE. WITH WI
Trimmings on New Furs
A DVANCED fashions In furs that are
t\ now being shown at the most exclu
give inuaisies as me new Lonaur
ind Paris importations seem, to make il
[uite certain that the approaching winter
s to be one of much betrimmed fur garnents.
Elegant simplicity will, if all signs
ome true, be very rare In the new fui
ackets and sets. The newest models suggest
very decidedly the furs of "the '60's"
md again of the " '30's," when braid and
lalls, cord and silk piping figured very
>romlnently on the tippets, muffs and
ackets. Those trimmings, however, were
isually of the same color as the furs, while
he new furs show an almost universal use
if colored trimmings. In black furs, howiver,
this is not so generally the case, the
rljnmlngs of the most stylish black wrap
jelng all in black. Among the most elegant
of these new black furs are those o)
he moire lamb, trimmed with dull silk or
atln pipings and braids, wltfr ornaments
nade of cord over molds in the Rh?r? of
arge buttons, with cord fringe, etc.
The jackets In all the new modes show
l tendency to depart from the bolero foi
he half-fitting pony Jackets. The sleeves
ire comfortably loose on some and or
(thers rather tight fitting?that Is to say
he regular coat sleeves fit. Many of tht
:oats have waistcoats and these are handlomely
embroidered In a variety of dull
ich tones in Persian effects, etc. Waistoats
are also seen trimmed with applique
if braid, velvet, silk, gold cord, etc. The
/.An r, -III
>? uvn uuato navu ty aioiv,uaio ui oniv nca*'J j
rimmed with shirrlngs, pipings, cord,
iraid, jet, etc., working out Intricate deigns.
Brown caracul coats are seen among the
lost fashionable new jackets, although
heir great vogue last* winter one would
hink would have rendered them impossile
for another season. Instead of being
he inexpensive though stylish garments of
ist winter, however, the new caracul
ackets are so handsomely trimmed that
hey are quite as expensive as if they were
ntirely made of valuable fur. One sufh
acket, more on the Eton order than any
ther known style, although it seemed to
iresent features belonging to Eton, bolro
and pony jacket, was of brown caraiu
1 with deep rolling levers and collar of
able. The combination was cliarmine.
.nd yet it would seem that the caracul
taelf might have been almost as attractive
. finish for the garment at a very trifling
>art of the expense. The long-haired fur
s, of course, more becoming to the face
han the curly caracul, and yet the same
fTect might as readily be obtained with
ox.
Another brown caracul jacket more in
he pony shape had a waistcoat of brown
ind dark .blue embroidery. A thread of
lu.l gold ran through the embroidery,
vhich was most elaborate. Over the
acket Itself an open scroll pattern of
irown and gold velvet applique was used
o outline the seams of the jacket and
iround the sleeves, the collar and the
>ottom.
One of the most sought after furs of
he winter will undoubtedly be sealskin,
vhich will just as undoubtedly' be one of
he most expensive. SeatSltin is never a
ery becoming fur to the figure, but it is
it its best in a plain coat with flat sleeves
iemi-fitting, or in an easy, close-Titiing
nodel. One very handsome new sealskin
lttlng in tignuy at me DacK ana siats an 1
emi-fitting in front had a very narrow
vaistcoat of blue silk embroidered In blue
if two shades. There were also long ends
>f the blue silk falling from the neck
itraight down to the bottom of the coat,
die blue was of the old beautiful shade
>nce so fashionable in poplins and very
arely seen nowadays.
Very little lace is seen on the new fur
itreet jackets, excepting that some of the
hree-quarter fur ccats meant for matrons
lave lace undersleeves. These are lull
md gathered in at the wrists. This fashon,
though attractive enough, is really
idiculous, for if a fur jacket is ne d.'d at
ill nothing can render Its warmth-giving
lualities more useless than an open sleeve
vith nothing more as a protection for the
ower arm than a lace puff.
It Is noticed that in many of the jackets
ermine Is used tn narrow strips to outline
he embroidered waistcoat. As a rule, ever
when the jacket reaches to the hips, the
waistcoat ends at the waist.
Chinchilla is also to be one of the most
jopular of this winter's furs. The price Is
?ven greater than it has t>een, which will
>f course make It particularly aesirame.
^n exquisite Parisian garment of chin:hilla
Is made with full elbow sleeves, with
:urned-ba-ck cults of ermine. The waist:oat
of white cut velvet Is trimmed with
wo rows of rhinestone buttons. The coat
s collarless and has lapels of Irish lace
ather broad at the shoulder" and tapering
oward the waist line.
Muffs are shown in many shapes, and no
>ne need feel chagrined if unable to purchase
a new one. The conservative furlers
declare that the new muffs are to be
rioderate in shape and size. They are to
>e round and moderately flat, and somewhat
smaller In size than the large ones of
asi Wlltiei. iiuo buuuus vuy oeuttiuitr, UUl
it the same time one is given a glimpse of
lumbers of new muffs just arrived from
?aris or London which certainly do not
:onform to these modest forecastings.
rhese muffs, however, we are told are
lovelties and not Intended as forerunners
if a general fashion, but simply as individual
creations to please persons of origilal
taste. The fact of the matter is. howiver,
that nowadays women who pretend
o fashion must all be more or less origllal
in taste. So that perhaps it would be
is well to look at the novelties before
lettllng down to the plain substantial
varieties. Among these novelties one muff
loticed was of moire lamb, quite flat and
irith a loose piece of the fur caught up
n a ruffle on one side and fastened there
vith a large, flat buckle of gun metal.
Among the shoulder capes and wraps the
'avorlte new model seems to be something
M ....
NERY
lilfl
5eT "
( In the shape of a dolman. It Is like th?
? silk mantles that have been worn this
last season. It reaches half way down to
the waist, falls In droojiing folds over the
. shoulders and hangs down In front In a
' flat, stoleliKe effect. In the thin furs, such
as moire lamb, etc., those mantles have
1 the furs gathered up In soft folds over
the shoulders and across the back. They
are trimmed with quilted silk and cord,
which Is arranged in festoon9 and in appliqued
ornaments. The cord hangs down
' the front also in fringes and loops.
These fur mantles are perhaps the newest
feature of this winter's furs. The empire
mantles are also being made up in
furs. Chinchilla, sealskin and mink will
' all be used for these wraps.
ALFRED KTF.VTCKR
A Painter of the Fine Ladies and
"High Life" of the Second Empire.
From Troth.
Alfred Stevens died last week In the poor
little flat in which he for some years vegetated
in the Avenue Trudaine. A Belgian
i ujf uinn ttnu eariy eaucauon, ne oecame Dy
choice a thorough boulevardler at a time
when the bouSevards were the literary and
. artistic salon of Europe. He caught the
dandyism of the clubmen who frequented
i Tortoni's, the wings of the old Opera House
and the Salle Ventadotir. You can see them
\ driving themselves in mail and other phae[
tons in the paintings of Lami and J. L.
Brown. They are in all the Bols and
i Champs Elysees scenes of these artists.
Stevens took up the feminine side of "le
high life" and sincerely painted it as it appeared
to him. He had really fallen In love
with it pn<^ its cln moiir t a Iron i ri
Had it been otherwise he would not have
stood higher as a painter than did Arsene
Houssaye as an author, or that poor creature
Imbert St. Arnaud. Imbert as u writer
was a cavaliere servente, and Houssaye a
coureur d'alcoves without a /single illusion.
Want of perspicacity saved Stevens. If one
could not fall in love as he did with his fine
Indies one could not help admiring the manner
of the artist. Like a first-rate chef,
he had often to work on bad materials,
which his skill rendered savory. The eauce
redeemed the ingredients. There were times
when he turned them into ambrosia. Stevens
may live as Nattier and Lami live. A
Fragonnrd would have lent to the eocodettes
whom Eugenie gathered around her too
much of his esprit for them to be really of
their time. The second empire was a period
of Philistinism. Stevens, if a man of good
Belgian family, was not exempt from snobbishness
In his loves.
I admit that a portrait painter?and all
the easel pictures of Stevens were portraits
of femme du raonde In fancy surroundings
or engaged in imaginary incidents?must
hold the candle to what Is low and vulgar
In the originals. But there ought to be an
undercurrent of protest oozing out through
the work. It Is allowable to hold the candle
to his Satanic Majesty, if one is determined
In so doing to scorch his face. One finds
thio In tVirt nnrtnitc nf T :l.
tour, the greatest artist In the genre of the
eighteenth century. Latour began always
by telling the real truth, whatever it was.
If he saw a fox or a wolf behind the countenance
of a financier he set it down on canvas,
or if a Delilah or a De Tincln lurktd
behind the smiles of some lovely oomedipnnfl
nr f-rturf ladv he did not nnss her over.
Afier the third or fourth sitting he embellished
according to the tastes of the tima
and ot the sitter. Stevens had not a penetrating
eye. It must be said that he hardly
needed It. He only dealt with favorites
of fortune, who hardly neeued to mask
their pi-opensltles. In the arrangement of
details of the toilet he had no equal. an4
i the task was no easy one, seeing what debased
Spanish taste prevailed. As a colorlst
he must ever take a high rank. I should
siy that In all his paintings there is not a
. single false note or jarring tone of color
i and that everywhere his coloring Is felicitous
and captivating. It is also to be said
that in painting his cocodettes and their belongings
he never slid down to the level of
the illustrator. An Illustrator may be n
great artist, but Illustration is low art.
The fashionable world had for many
, years before his death completely forgotten
Stevens. Had he been a Frenchman tha
government would have found for him soma
nnst In the fine arts department. Harsh
! things are said of Leopold, the millionaire
. king, for not recognizing In some handsome
way the talent of the old painter.
Queenly Splendor.
From Dress.
Cloth of gold and cloth of silver are to
play an important part in the more elaborate
gowns. Chiffon and lace made up
over a lining of cloth of gold gain a brilliancy
and depth that is most effective
whether black, white or colored, while in
the bodice and girdle the material cin be
heavily embroidered. Haml painted chiffon
over cloth of gold and silver docs not
souhd in the description any more effective
tnan.it is in reality, while, tiie raintesr, most
delicate of shades are In this way intensified
without losing their charm and elusive
coloring.
Pompadour Waist Bands.
From Dress.
Other gowns show waistbands In pompai
dour ribbon, boned. The ground work of
these ribbons is oftentimes splashed with
large and heavy flowers in velvet and
epingle velvet. In the smartest styles th?
little bolero also nrras us jraw?, u>c
change It has undergone being the adaptation
of a basque generally starting from
tire side seam. It Is worn with the little mm
waistcoat braided, covered with rich embroideries
In metal and ornaments of embroidered
and woven braid. The buttons
on this are small apd plain. In contradie^
tlnctlon to the newer mode. The ornamentations
of the waist are often repeated on
the skirt, where they are increased In aU*.