Evening star. [volume], December 15, 1906, Page 4, Image 28

About Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972

Image provided by: Library of Congress, Washington, DC

                
PARIS FASHIONS
Sperinl Correspondence of The Star.
PARIS, December 1, 1906.
The Louvre and shops where old prints
are to be found are popular haunts these
days of the smart woman. For to be
thought modish this winter one must at
least boast an afternoon oj- evening frock
copied from an old master. The portraits
of Gainsborough,_ Reynolds and Sir Peter
I?ely have long been fountain heads from
which inspiration for fancy ball costumes
have been drawn, but now we are applying
these modes of long ago to gowns for more
prosaic occasions. Of course one would
prefer being the copyist of some less wellknown
canvas, sttil there are points even
Jn the hackneyed picture of Mme. Le
Urun's "Muff With the Girl," as a frivolous
critic dubbed this masterpiece, that
might be used with advantage. The hat,
for Instance, the saucy little cutaway coat,
with Its kerchief of muslin, or both,
would be fetching if reproduced In soma of
the fabrics of the season and worn by the
"right Klrl." But the examples are numberless,
and it is spoiling sport to suggest
them.
*
*
But you see what a head-splitting process
of thought accompanies the pursuit of upto-date
dress. The other day a few of us
unfortunates who have more ideas of what
Is what In dressdom than we have money
with which to carry them out had a serious
debate as to whether or not the present
modistic era tends to more or less extravagance
than Its Immediate predecessor.
Naturally there was much to be said on
both sides, as it Is an Incontrovertible fact
that each season as it comes along seems
to bring with it some new and quite indispensable
attendant, something that previously
never entered our minds, but when
once placed there oy Dame Fashion discontent
reigns supreme If we can't get It.
Then fashions change so rapidly nowadays
that It takes all our time even to keep
within a measurable distance of the front
ranks. And yet one so soon grows accustomed
to every new vogue that .ast
month's possession becomes demode in our
Bight and strenuous efforts are resorted to
to possess L,a Mode's latest decree.
w
m m
This, of course, Is where extravagance
comes In. On the other hand, home dressmaking
has taken enormous strides. I
don't mean "botchy" clothes, with all the
earmarks of home manufacture about
them, but really smart, professional looking
creations. In most cases we have to
thank the scientifically cut paper patterns
for these productions. Then the shops are
equally encouraging to the home dressmaker
In providing ready-made accessories.
" * 'lio Dnn \l.jprtlia on/1 ntliAr ahAna
/.ere in Paris one can get sleeves, berthas,
collars, belts, etc., of every conceivable
style that would give a touch of chicness to
any costume. Again these same shops are
tilled with artistic materials at prices that
are really astonishing if one takes the
trouble to compare them with those of a
few years ago. And certainly there never
was a time when such attention was beetowed
on the reproduction of famous laces
and trimmings of all kinds.
Taking all things into consideration, we
are rather Inclined to the belief that while
the opportunities for spending money never
were more alluring, with careful selection
a very good appearance can be arrived at
with quite a moderate dres8 allowance. Individuality
in dress, as in all other matters,
Invariably stands for distinction, and
that worthy end it is the aim and object of
every dress-loving woman to achieve.
*
* *
One of the most extravagant and attractive
features of fashion at the moment Is
xur. v\e revel in lur, a.nu as a uimiuiug 11
takes precedence of all others. It is worked
Into stripes and circles, it forms rosettes
and assumes the modish shape of the
lozenge. Chinchilla is more used for this
adornment than the other pelts and is so
cunningly maneuvered as to suggest the
elaborate intricacies of a design in mosaic.
Personally I think this a great liberty to
take with a handsome fur, but I am bound
to tell you about the latest and mo9t important
novelty of the season. In my
FASHIONS FROM
opinion fur should be dealt with by generous
methods. Its lines should be noble
and all pettiness of detail, all hint of
facon, to use a couturiere's term, should
be carefully avoided.
*
*
The newest muffs are lovely. They are
Immense and very appropriately christened
sac a perdreau. Many of them are lined
IN SILK AND SATIN.
Modish Evening Gowns Hade in Empire
Effects.
Satin and silk evening gowns are far
more fashionable this winter than the
dresses of net. chiffon and lace, although
the latter always remain in vogue. Satin,
however, keeps always In such good trim
and is in itself so fashionable that it is
never safe to be without at least one handsome
satin evening gown.
Many of the satin ball dresses rhis season
are gorgeously embroidered, but there
are also a great number that are comparatively
simple in detail as well as in effect.
The emoire and direetoire modal* call for
little If atiy trimming on the skirt, and
many ol the waists are relieved only by
some handsome embroidery and just a
little rich lace.
For evening, as well as afternoon, the
empire (towns are now most attractive. In
back the full empire effect is given by the
narrow gathered pleats or folds that ar?
started so far ud on the waist and fall into
x>r. more strictly speaking, from the long
oft train. But In front the long waist Una
Is slearly defined.
Many of the soft satins and satln-flnished
silks are quite aa good as the heavier satin
lor tne moueis tnai are popular ai present;
also they aro much less expensive than the
true satin. \f this is to be taken Into consideration.
Although the effect of an empire
skirt Is almost clinging In comparison
with the wide flaring skirts that have been
popular for soma little time, for that very
reason there must be plenty of material
allowed. A plain skirt that is too narrow
ts singularly ugly and unattractive.
A charming evening gown among this
Winter's models Is of pale yellow satin,
made on a much modified empire design.
fTiut satin la the bodice la draped loosely
with ermine and fitted with an outside
pocket which serves as a hiding place for
such indispensables as handkerchief and
powder puff. Long wraps this season are
not made of fur. The sedate fur-lined
pelisse of last season has vanished and today
fur In Its newest and most frivolous
role flirts with lace and cloth as a garniture
for the simplest models, thus glorifying
a plain bolero into a dressy garment.
The long stole of chinchilla 6r sable wound
twice around the neck worn with a moderate-sized
muff is the fur adjunct of the trotteur
suit.
m
* ?
But the height of pelt luxury la reached
In a scarflike stole of ermine reaching to
the hem of the gown, where the ends spread
out fanshape and are trimmed with three
rows of ermine tails arranged In tiers one
above the other. Fancy braid ornaments
are new touches on a number of short fur
coats and boleros, while tiny plaltlngs of
taffeta silk find themselves making smart
the cuffs and collars of other models. Just
before Langtry called for America this season
a famous Parisian furrier made her a
wrap of sable that was a work of art. The
coat, a Jaunty affair in hip length, was regular
enough as to cut, but over the shoulders
there was a cape of sable that seemed
to outextravagance extravagance itself.
The three-quarter sleeves were startling
with their deep cults of coars? brown net
lined with brown silk.
Fur trimmings are stunning on afternoon
and evening gowns, but the straight bordering
is no longer seen, the urecian key
patti-rn having taken Its place. Festoons
und rosette devices lncrusted with medallions
of lace and painted muslin are employed
with exquisite effect. Caracul in
cream and black is a favorite fur this winter.
Indeed, one wonders where all the
skins come from, and one almost fears the
extermination of the rarer species. To b?
sure, skins and parts of skins that were
never used before are now turned to very
good account. But to come back to cream
caracul, a "dear" of a short coat was worn
at a tea room the other afternoon by a
pretty girl of the blond type. A note of
color was introduced by way of discreet
touches of sapphire velvet, white braid and
a few Jeweled buttons.
This mixture sounds alarming, but the
effect was charming, ror tne values were
well balanced, as they are in every real
work of art. The muff, a soft, square,
flimsy affair, was braid trimmed, the ends
of each row being drawn through diminutive
paste buckles.
*
* *
The cape effect Is becoming quite a mania
in Paris, even for evening dresses, and the
popular sleeve of the moment is maue in one
piece, so far as the upper part is concerned,
with the bodice. A great many elegante*
are appearing In toilets showing the new
long shoulder line. This effect, as one
might suppose, is not that of 1830, but
rather suggests a number of beautifully
gowned women wearing dainty shoulder
capes.
If It be true that coming events cast their
shadows before, then the return of the long
sleeve is almost within sight. The advent
of artistic long diaphanous draperies for
evening wear we may take as the thin catering
wedge.
*
* *
No one is ever sure Just what will happen
in the realm of fashion. The Duchess
of Devonshire thought she put the hoopskirt
out of commission forever, but It has
bobbed up serenely several times since her
day. Likewise Americans thought that
their influence against the long skirt for
street wear could kill it, but they, too, have
failed. The sweep Jupe Is with us this year,
and one cannot be modish and appear at an
afternoon reception or the theater In a
walking length skirt. And what an Immense
flare or swish these skirts have at
the bottom! There is no hint of stiffness
at the foot lino, for there Is nothing to hold
the skirt out except the quantity of material
that goes Into Its making.
In connection with long skirts two friends
of mine recently had an audience with the
pope, who, noticing that they wore train
dresses, commented on them. "They are
not hygienic," said he, "for In the street
they gather microbes and other things. As
for myself, when I am obliged to add a
train to my cassock it is a bother to me,
though there are four prelates to hold It
up."
"But, holy father, we hold up our trains
when we go Into the street," said one of
the visitors.
"That must be exceedingly inconvenient,"
THE FTTRRIERS.
remarked Plus X, and to prove it he made
a tour of the room holding up his robes In
Imitation of a fine lady. These same fine
ladles will have to take as many lessons In
handling their sweep skirts as tue pope his
robe, for to walk not only gracefully, but
without stumbling In a skirt that lies on
the ground, say, five Inches In front, requires
a special gift of locomotion that all
women do not possess.
CATHERINE TALBOT.
across the bust?brought down Just a little
below the waist line in front. In back the
folds of the material are draped toward
the center to give the empire lines. The
skirt, which Is attached to the waist by a
iuuiuw luruiiik, suuws me lines 01 me figure
well In front and on the sides, while
in back the material Is feathered Into a wide
pleat, wMch gives the necessary fullness to
the skirt. Where the skirt and waist Join
In back are placed two gold buckles. The
sleeves are composed of little yellow chiffon
puffs, fallinr from under soft folds of gold
spangled lace. Embroidered panels of the
satin are laid over the shoulder* and across
the decolletage, the color being softened
by a little double ruching of white Uce.
Heavy Silks.
If satins slid heavy silks continue to grow
In popular favor at the present rate of
speed It Is a question whether by the spring
all chtfTons, nets and causes will not be
completely out of vogue. Even the debutante
now prefers a satin evening gown to
one of soft net or chiffon, and while the
light, delicate material Is undeniably the
more suitable, still Dame Fashion really
settles all such questions, and this winter
demands the serviceable and effective rather
than beauty of detail and delicacy of
fabric.
Tf (fl tn gov nAglMwalw 4i?c>+ ? ?*%?? +
*? ? ?w t juav nu?ii
model is most In vogue. The empire, of
course, is smartest, and to a tall, slight
figure can be made exceptionally becoming.
The princess gown, however, has made for
Itself a very firm place In the regard of
so many that It will not be discarded for
many moons yet. Even the two-piece
gown, with draped waist coming down
over the skirt, is seen a great deal this
winer, while the separate belt or girdle
of silk or satin is not unfashionable if it
makes (he gown becoming to the figure.
Smart Wraps
/
Hi ^^H[4|)|f|^^^^^H^H| i M
^^ 1 Mr nwL "
FlK. 1.?The afternoon wrap Is of ai
In gold and silver.
Nos. 2 and 3 show two good afterno
/
VELVET GOWNS THIS WINTEB.
In Bich Dark Shades They Are Used
for All Times.
BY A. T. ASHMORE.
That Dame Fashion, will never outgrow
her fondness for velvet gowns is illustrated
year after year, for every successive winter
season brings forth its models for reception
and often evening wear, in rloh and hand- J
some qualities of velvet. For the afternoon
there are all the rich dark shades, black
being of all the most popular, but for the
dinner, ball or opera gowns, bright shades
of pink, red, deep turquoise blue and fascinating
shades of green are to be noticed
this year.
For the sake of investment alone, a
black velvet calling costume is well worth
purchasing, for it is appropriate for the
most formal entertainment and is suitable
as well for the smaller teas and receptions.
Then, too. black is not readily remembered, ,
but in velvet is at all times conspicuously '
handsome. Sapphire blue, rich purple and
deep claret color are all to be seen in velvet 1
this year, and make most effective calling i
and reception costumes, while the lighter (
shades, as said above, are reserved more for
the house and for evening wear.
Velvet is too heavy for the true Empire i
style, but much modified this model Is i
most attractive for a reception gown. The ,
dress should be trimmed in some way with .
: lace and embroidery, the waist line being 1
' distinctly shown in front and on the sides '
i by a fitted satin belt, which in black Is ]
drawn up slightly above the loose folds
I or plaits of the material, which, falling
loose to the hem, give the Empire efTect.
For this style of gown the Jacket should 1
be short, either an embroidered bolero 1
or some short Empire jacket opened up 1
high In back so as not to Interfere with
the loose plaits of velvet In the gown. The
sleeves are quite short In all Empire mod- 1
els, the collar is unusually high and the 1
skirt must be longer than the average, with 1
a decided train, for all possible heights
must be given to counteract the short- '
waisted effect. 1
Both embroidery and braiding are made i
use of to trim this season's velvet gowns, i
In black the embroidery is all in black <
silk with perhaps a touch of silver or gold, ]
but the light effect is brought by contrast- I
ing colors in the embroidery or by light i
and dark shades of the one color. Even 1
if the dress Itself la trimmed only with
lace the jacket may have any amount of i
embroidery and braiding. 1
Chiffon velvet, because It is of lighter <
weight and also easier to trim and drape <
becomingly, Is used a great deal tor evening
wear. A velvet gown may be made
on some extremely simple model with only
a touch of rich lace at the decolletage.
One exceptionally handsome afternoon
gown was of sapphire blue velvet, mode
princess and absolutely plain, relieved j
only by a deep Irish lace collar, which fell |
almost to the waist line, covering sleeves, (
yoke, and, In fact, the entii'e bodice. There i
Is no better use for a handsome lace col- j
lar than to j>ut It on over a simply made 1
velvet gown, for lace and velvet each en- .
hances the effect of the other.
A Smart Frock.
A stunning princess-empire gown for a
formal Christmas dinner may be made of
black material and effectively trimmed
with appliques so It will be appropriate for
wear during the rest of the season, If
fashioned from lustrous broadcloth that Is
so popular now. It will be strikingly pretty
J# KIaaIt HA# VfAolrAil |nf a A
u ucvuiat.vu ntui uov| <?wii%ou *uv? u>
rose pattern carried out In narrow milliners'
folds of black satin. Bands of appliques
set between stitched stripes of cloth
running from the empire waist line to the <
knees in front and graduating upward toward
the back gives It a desirable finish.
The bodice employs the same strap idea as
the skirt, with the appliques and puffings
of plain net set off by four large cabachons
of cut Jet in generous size. The neck is cut
out in oval shape to the bust line and filled
In with a chemisette of shirred white net
and Irish crochet lace, these same materials
being used to form the rather long cuff
of the tiny puff sleeve.
" r
Beauty Measurements.
A perfectly formed woman will stand at
the height of from five feet three to five
feet seven Inches. She will weigh from 128
to 140 pounds.
A plumb line dropped from a point marked
by the Up of ber nose will fall at a point
one inch in front of her great toe. Her
shoulders and hips will strike a straight
line drawn up and down.
Her bust should measure from twentyeight
to thirty-six Inches; her hips from six
to ten Inches more than this, and her waist
should be from twenty-two to twenty-eight
Inches In circumference.
The upper arm of this perfect woman will
end at her waist line. Her neck should be
from twelve to fourteen Inches In circumference.
For Pimples.
Be careful of your diet; eat plenty of
fruit and cereals, take vigorous exercise
every day, and try a solution made of one
ounce of Bpermacetl ointment, thlrty-slx
-grains of bl-carbonate of soda and one ,
dram of glycerine on the parts of your
skin where pimples appear. Put this specific
on each night before retiring after <
having thoroughly cleansed the fle9h. Leave I
this solution on the skin for fifteen minutes,
then wipe it off with a soft cloth, leaving i
only ft thin film. j
: and Suits for Ai
~~IPS
vl. .) HH
*iff?T
v^ \llVv^^ I * ttl
>-wf i
nethyst-colored velvet, bordered all around
on models In light-weight cloth.
TTi-n nn mrrn nrrrfnti nw I
ljjjjB ur i njj uniiiuiiijiN
i
SOME PREVENTIVES AGAINST
MANY AILMENTS ?
?? i
?
Plenty of Sleep and Exercise and j
Nourishing Food the Main B
Items. ?
i
?
It may sound rather paradoxical in the i
face of tradition to say that there are i
ailments children should not have; never
theless. no cnna snouia nave acnes, pains ?
or many of t)ie childish diseases If prop- t
erly nourished on wholesome foods, bathed J
md clad In keeping with the season, housed 1
In well-ventilated rooms and given Euffl- t
elent outdoor exercise and plenty of sleep t
and recreation, according to Dr. Charles *
3. Kerley. a well-known child specialist.
"Faulty nutrition produces lack of re- '
distance to disease," says Dr. Kerley; "it E
makes susceptible bodies; the large mor- i
tallty among infants is due. directly or t
indirectly, to nutritional errors more than *
to anythlne else. Scarlet fever, diphtheria, '
measles, pneumonia, tuberculosis, the In- v
testinal diseases, claim most of their vie- t
tims among those who have not sufficient c
stamina to resist infection. It requires no t
great process of reasoning to appreciate a
that the child who is fed on suitable food
will become a more vigorous and better- a
formed adult than one who is fed, begin- e
nlng at birth and continuing during the 3
entire development period, on food of in- 1
different tissue-building qualities. s
"Intestinal diseases of infants offer a 0
better field of work in the line of preven- J
tlon than any other disease of childhood, 11
and considering the high death rate from
such ailments no affection deserves more '
letermined efforts tj combat It. The most s
potent factors causing dysentery are chang- ?
Ing climatic conditions, an unhealthy dl- ?
gestlve tract. Infected foods and faulty 1
feeding. v
"At the first symptom of Intestinal de- ?
rangement mothers or nurse should stop
feeding milk ar.d give cereal water and a 0
lose of castor oil. The cereal water, barley ?
ar rice, is given in the strength of one-half ?
ounce to a pint of water, and is fed plain ?
or dextrlnized regardless of age until the .
acute symptoms disappear. When milk is
again fed it must be given skimmed in "
small auantitics with cereal water, aud "
fhon Kolf an niinoa a f Ana food _
HCf U UIW1 V IUCLII 'lull. Ull UUUWV UV W11V 1.VVW 4
Ing. As the little sufferer's temperature *
la reduced the quantities of milk are in- j
:reased. If, as is sometimes the case,
skimmed milk does not agree, condensed
milk may be used in quantles of one-half
:o one dram in a feeding of cereal water.
Boiled water only Is given for drink.
"Frequent spongings with lukewarm water
are advisable during the day, and it
Is essential to speedy recovery that the 1
little one be kept as quiet as is possible t
on a cot or in a bed placed in a cool, well- s
ventilated room In as spacious quarters as |
are to be had.
"Throusrh DroDerly ventilated dwellings
pulmonary disorders, bronchitis, bronchial
pneumonia may be avoided. But If contracted.
should be treated locally with
medicated vapor and chest applications,
which gives drugs a third place. And I
advise when medicines are Riven that they
be administered in tablets and not mixed
with a syrup that has no therapeutic value
and as a rule disturbs the stomach.
"I have found that with children pulmonary
and infectious diseases treated
with baths, packs and plenty of drinking
water, boiled, supplemented with Judicious
medication. Rive excellent results.
"There is no advantage in a child's having
measles or whooping cough, though
they make the little one practically immune
afterward, and I believe that they
snuuia db guaruBu aniuusi. ui?d luievuuua
diseases, for the chances of serious complications
are increased, and pneumonia
frequently follows both measles and whooping
cough.
"Cold In the head, croup and other catarrhal
affections, caused from dust and
exposure to draughts, may be avoided by
keeping the child's body in good physical
condition, the digestive apparatus healthy
and not unduly exposing an Infant to sudden
changes of temperature, such as going
from a warm room Into a cold one, or allowing
it to lie In position where a draught
will blow directly on it."
t
Little Skirt Trimming.
There la a noticeable absence of trimming
on all evening skirts this year. Some
of the handsomest and most expensive costumes.
while the bodices are gorgeously
trimmed, have skirts whose whole effect
Is due to the beauty and auantity of the
material and the perfect hang and cut,
whfoh la an All imnnrtnnt with either All
empire or a Drtncess frock.
To Keep Toothbrushes Clean.
After each using: wash them out thoroughly
with clear cold water, then rinse
through a solution 5 per cent borlo acid
md hang in the air and sunshine with the
bristles up. so the water will run down the
handle and not stay around the bristles t
to make them soggy and to cause an un- g
pleasant odor. 1
fternoon Use.
with a band of cream satin, embroidered
EVENING HOSIERY.
Vtry Smart Effects Displayed in Bibbon
Work.
Fancy ribbon embroidery stockings are
rmart now and are being worn by many
veil-groomed women because the designs
lsed make the Instep look high and the
inkle small, a desirable quality in evening
lose worn with elaborately decorated kid
mi satin slippers.
These embroidery patterns of ribbon are
ill of floral designs and are put on In
nost conservative styles, for the designs
ire either in bunches of blossoms or in
unning vines that extend from the instep
ip almost to the knee.
In the natural colors of the red, yellow
ind white rose, yellow and white chrysanhemum,
sheaves of wheat, pink, red and
vhite carnations, combined with green
eaves and vines, these designs are atractive
on black silk stockings because of
he sharp contrast, but they look well on
vhlte or even on light pastel shades.
Of the many pa.tterns chosen for evening
year none is in greater demand than the
heaves of wheat In a solid design. These
n the natural yellow color on black are efectlve,
or equally striking If done In black
ibbon. Chrysanthemums, In three or four
>unches with enough space between to
nake each cluster prominent, are also faorltes
in yellow, white or lavender on
ilack silk hose. Carnations in dart red
in long green stems are pretty on either
ilack, tight green or light blue silk, and
lso in a solid pattern or in small clusters.
These new ribbon embroidery hose have
.lmost entirely replaced the hand embroid
red, though a lew conservative women
till wear the latter for afternoon recepions
and at smart evening functions. Silk
tockings with lace insertion are almost
-bsolete now. Even the openwork varleies,
though less expensive, are not as popuar
with women who follow the fashions.
Another attractive feature about the ribion
embroidery hose is that plain silk
tockings may be easily decorated in any
tyle desired by those who know how to
lo this fancy work and will make charmng
Christmas gifts. Stockings for street
irear are plain in color and design this
eason, for women are selecting shades
hat correspond to the tops of their shoes,
r are In harmony with their walking
;owns, so that grays, browns, the prevailng
tones are usually chosen for dally use.
ilack, of course, Is much worn, as always,
'he nearest attempt to fancy varieties for
he street Is the combination of two tones
n gray, or brown, or the changeable silk,
ised with* a dark blue and black, maroon
,nd black or green and black. Most of
hese changeable hose are made In either
ylde and narrow stripes, with indefinite
iefdefts In tiny figures.
Lisle thread?plain?in black are used for
norning.
A Plaid Costume.
Very fetching is the plaid costume picured
carried out in several shades of gray,
larred oft with a broad line of black. The
ikirt is made on the bias and is princess
n effect. The Jacket is a natty little model.
rith epaulet sleeves and quillings of smoke
;ray taffeta. The small collar Is of ^ngiab
embroidery.
DECORATIONS OF PAPER
CHILDREN MAT MAKE THEM TOB
CHRISTMAS TREES.
Anything that the children can do per
sonatly towara decorating tne i nnsimas (
tree adds lust so much to their pleasure, ,
and the variety of pretty and appropriate
decorations which are within the scope of
their small fingers la almost Illimitable.
In every kindergarten In the city little folks
are busy now making artistic paper chains,
vari-colored Japanese lanterns, paper balls
and baskets, and scores of other pretty J
trinkets that can be concocted at trifling
expense.
To make a square basket?the simplest of
these ornaments?the Instructor says: Take
a square of a bright red. blue or gilt paper
that Is about five Inches long and the same
dimension in width, place It In front and
fold the corner nearest over to the opposite
one that Is farthest away. Th"n open the
paper and turn the crease so It extends
back and front. Repeat the first operation i
on the opposite side by folding the corner
nearest to the one farthest away, making
diagonals. Next turn paper upside down
and place an edge toward the maker. Fold
the two corners nearest to those farthest
away to make a book. Open the paper,
then place the crease back and front, then
fold corners nearest to those farthest away,
making two books. Then fold the" corner
nearest to the one farthest away and the
basket is made. A handle to fasten the
[ basket to a tree is made by sewing a
| piece of wool through these corners. These
baskets may be rendered decidedly attractive
by pasting a narrow strip of paper to
two sides and Ailing in a lining of tissue
paper, with the edges pinked or cut Into '
fringe.
A round basket may be fashioned In the j
same way by cutting the square corners
slightly.
In making a box for a tree take a fiveinch
piece of square paper, fold the front edges
over to the back corners to make a '
book, open the paper and fold to make a
book on the other side, so that the creases 1
show distinctly four squares. Next fold J
the nearest edges to the middle crease,
then the back edges to the same crease,
making what is called a shutter; open the '
paper and repeat on the other side, thus '
folding the sheet Into sixteen squares.
Cut the first vertical crease on the right
side to the first horizontal crease, then cut
the third vertical crease to the first horizontal
line, and do the same thing on the 1
opposite or back side. This leaves four i
squares at the four corners, with an oblong ,
piece of paper In the center. The box is
made out of these by putting paste on each
of the squares and sticking them inside 1
the oblong piece. A top for the box is i
made in exactly the same way.
Nothing is more effective for a tree ornament
than a Japanese lantern made out
of two colors, preferably gilt and red, or
gilt and blue. Such a decoration is made
by folding a square piece of paper Into a
book, by laying the front and back edges ,
together and then folding these again !
into shutters by laying the edges to- ,
gether. Make as many shutters as can
be conveniently folded, then unfold and
fold again Into a book on the opposite
side. Roll over the edges to the first
crease and cut down each crease to the
folded edges. On the other strip put paste
and glue the other edge to It, making the
lantern. At the top paste on the Inside a
handle, made of a narrow strip of paper. In
a shade to match either of the colors of the
lantern.
As no tree is complete without chains,
fiPuorn 1 Ckf thAm shnulri ha mflHa fnr tHm.
mlng. The length of each depends entirely
on what use Is to be made of It, so
the sizes of the squares must be governed
by the need. In .making these rings a
square of paper should be folded Into a
book, by laying the front edges over on
the back ones and then doubling them
again into shutters. Keep on folding and
making these shutters by bringing each
edge to the center crease until the strips
are not more- than an eighth of an inch 1
in width. Then cut along each crease?
this will give enough pieces to make six ;
or eight rings from a flve-inch square ,
paper. A bit of paste is put on one end of
one of these strips, and a ring Is made; .
through this ring another piece is slipped .
and one end is pasted to the other. In ,
this way the chain Is made any length de- .
sired. If composed of alternate rings of ,
gold and red. or blue and sliver, such a
chain is beautiful.
A more decorative and fanciful chain
is made by folding a square of paper into
an oblong again. This paper is then cut
at the outside toward the center In some (
pretty and unusual design and then the '
links are fitted together. An effective chain i
may be made out of inch pieces of dry i
Useful Christmas (
Women May 5
BT MRS. JA
Here are a few suggestions for the woi
presents either for grown persons or chilc
cretonne, the opening at ihe top made by
which the cretonne is sewed.
.Ribbon is fasrter.ed In a ilttle bow on ea<
tied together to form a loon to hang the
tonne, at thirty cents a y:iid, and two ya:
be needed.
No. 2 Is a handkerchief bag of scrim, l
making these bags may be had at any of
cents. Three yards of ribbon, at fifteen c<
Dai;.
No. 3 is a sewing or knitting apron, mai
India linen would be a good clioice, as It
twenty-flve cents a yard, and one and
Tear off lengthwise three strips one am
to make the casings for the ribbons. Mak
piece of linen left, and then sew the three
At the lower edge, where the material Is 1
two parts together as far up as the lower
yards of ribbon, at fifteen cents a yard, wil
No. 4 is a most acceptable gift for evei
baby ribbon. The top and bottom may be
should be cut from stiff bristol board and
M
BtCnuAKD* J\\ 111
Cover the ftrar squares with silk and put
unfinished sides, next to each other, and
broidery awl punch a hole in the center of
of rlbbdn between, and with a knitting ne<
the bolts. Run baby ribbon through the hi
shown In the illustration. The ribbon may
and most persons will have an odd piece of
cover tne top ana iwuum.
No. 5, a spool case, is made of two circl
" hemmed on the edge. Between the circlet
inches in diameter, stitched in. Mark at r<
of the linen'circles, and at these points ovi
this will make the little pockets for the sp<
colored silks run a piece of narrow elastt
where the two circles of linen are caught
place. A yard of linen will cost thirty, cei
thirty cents.
No. 6 is a niching box, made of cardtx
silk. Cut from the cardboard eight obloni
torn, and two long sides and four squares,
and sew them together in the same way as
are all made, form th< box by overs eamlnj
arrange four pieces of ribbon. A yard and
seventy-five cents a yard, and one yard of
plete the list of materials reauired.
No. 7 Is a pin case, made from a half yai
tened a piece of white eiderdown. A variet
eiderdown. At the pointed end a ribbon she
case with when rolled up. The wide rlbboi
9t narrow fifteen cents.
I
macaroni, alternating with large, bright 4
red cranberries, threaded on gilt string.
Some dainty and inexpensive gifts to b?
bung on a tree may be made out of gray
jr green bristol board, cut Into oblong
shaoes and decorated with a miniature
calendar and a email photograph of an
impropriate subject. A ribbon of red or
prhlte run through two hole* at the top
makes It easy to hang this little present to
i tree.
A small needle book may be made out
it a piece of bristol board, with felt or
chamois for the needles pasted to one side.
Fur In Vogue.
Early In th? season all Indications pointed
nwnnl *rrA*t fur winter, but the vone of
fur coats, wraps and trimmings of every
Inscription has far surpassed ail expectations.
On gowns alone fur trimming Is not
extensively used, but on all outdoor wraps.
?r hats, and even on the coat and skirt of
i street suit fur forms the principal adornment.
Never have so many fur coats and
wraps been seen as this winter, and unfortunate
Indeed Is the woman who does
not possess at the very leant one handsome
fur Jacket. It was thought at one
time that short fur Jackets would be worn
altogether, but this is far from being the
case, for the long, loose wraps and the
short fitted or loose coats are about equally
popular.
A style of coat that is exceedingly smart
for afternoon may be worn over a cloth
or velvet gown matching the shade of th?
gown as nearly as possible. A wrap of
Russian sable trimmed with bands of velvet.
embroidered In silk and old gold. Is
stunning and decidedly effective if a muff /
of ermine trimmed with three sable skins
Is carried. Sable is never out of fashion,
but at present it seems more than ever
the favorite.
An extremely smart coat may be meda In
the empire style. Such a model is handsome
with a yoke or upper part of astra!"> ?
/vf Klaolr t'Aivat Thu
coat is fitted Just enough to show the natural
good lines of the figure. The trimming
on the coat may consist of bands of
black satin embroidered In gold and silver.
A charmingly attractive afternoon costume
may be made of brown caracul. th?
Jaoket trimmed with pipings of brown
cloth, with bowknota and buttons of brown
i-elvet. The coat la worn over a brown
cloth gown, the aklrt trimmed with band*
>f caracul. Waist and jacket alike are relieved
by the touch of deep cream colored
lace. This atyle of Jacket may have the
loose box back or else be slightly fitted In
it the waist Una.
Plentiful and Cheap.
Christmas trees will be cheap and plentiful
this year, and there will be enough
to supply the enormous demand In the city,
even though it is larger than ever before,
ror according to a wholesale merchant the
shipments of fir trees from Maine, the Adlrondaeks
and Catskllls are larger than they
have been for many years. In addition to
the large quantities to select from, the
fact that the trees, whether small or tall,
are covered with many branches having
well developed foliage makes them especially
desirable for use during the com
ing" nouuays. 1 nm, iw, mc luun^ iv
buy a tree for twenty-flve cents will maka
It possible for many families to purchase
them for Christmas festivities, and youngsters
who never before had a tree in their
own homes will be Indulged In the luxury
this season. Even the large trees are Inexpensive
now. for those that are veven
and eight feet high may be bought for from
M to S3. , ^
Unlike evergreen trees the holly variety
that Is so much admired because of the
bright red berries that cover the branches,
will not be cheap this year, for they are
scarce and the orders coming from England
and Belgium are small, which advances
the price. Ten dollars for a small holly
tree under four feet In height Is the aiqount
isked now, and $25 and more for thoa?>that
are six feet. The sum asked for holly
trees, however, depends entirely upon
thickness of the leaves and the slse and
number of the berries on the branc-hoa,
for they are an ornament to a room
whether bedecked with gifts and bright
ornaments or without any decoration.
As to the small holly and evergreen ornaments,
the wreaths made of the former
will be quite expensive and will sell at an ^
increase of ten per cent because of th?
scarcity. Thus a holly wreath will cost
"rom twenty to thirty cents, according to
:he size, while those made of evergreen,
which is plentiful, may be purchased for
from ten cents up, the price being reguiated
by the dimensions.
To Clean Chandeliers.
Try cleaning with vinegar and salt or
sxalic acid and salt, rubbing vigorously.
rhen wash off this cleanser quickly, for if
t Is left on the metal will tarnish. Brighten
with tripoli and sweet oil.
jifts That
flake of Cretonne NB
FORD.
man who Is making her own Chrlatmaa
Iren. No. X Is a collar ba* made from
??' ? ? ? t>(n?v Airar
ch aide of the ring and the two piecea
bag. One yard and a quarter of crerds
of ribbon, fifteen cents & yard, will
nade over colored muslin. Squares for
the fancy work departments for fifty
;nts a yard, will be required to finish the
le from any fine linen or cotton material,
launders nicely. This may be had at
three-eighths will be needed.
1 a half inches wide: these are to be used
e a one-eighth inch hem all around the
casings on. as shown in the illustration,
turned up to form a bag, overseam the
edge of the casings for the ribbon. Four
1 be needed.
ry woman. It la a case for three bolts of
either round or square. These pieces
are four Inches and a half In diameter.
M
\ >*r xunxxxonzraa$
In, sfe
>h* atfiyjnjxarcaf
E5L HL
^ I MUAurcm
to Jmr
them together In pairs with the two
overs earn them together. With an embo
th the top and bottom, place the bolts
;dle make a hale through the center of
Die made, bring It around and tie it. as
ha hnnrht for twentv-flve cents a bolt.
silk or ribbon around that will do to
es of linen, twelve inches In diameter,
i. la placed a circle of cardboard, seven
'gular intervals six places on the edges
;rseam the two pieces of linen together;
>ols. Through six spools of different
c, letting it go under each of the places
together. This will hold the spools In
its. and the half doaan cotton will cost
>ard. and covered either with ribbon or
fa, fourteen by four, for the top and botfour
by four, for the ends; cover them
for the ribbon holder. After the pieces
E the pieces together. To tie the ltd shut
a half of slllr twenty Inches wide, at .
ribbon, at fifteen cents a yard, will cont'd
of six-Inch ribbon, on which is fasy
of fancy pins are arranged In the
>uld be fastened, to be used to tie the
i will cost twenty-five cents, and a yard