Newspaper Page Text
Smart Velvet F
? jSjj m 9 n This stunning modified princess model in 1 caption or >arrlatfe gown, and to the averai *use of the graceful lin?-s of both skirt and 1 drops frotn the bodice down the front of the s being uf velvet is decidedly rich looking. lilt- ijuuirc im aum'Bl p'irir, i*n u ma * i ?ii<l Is l>roii?lit down in a "V" shape from tf where it is fastened with a large gold or silvi frock ma> t* worn with a lace collar and pi As a finish to the "V" an edging of lace i used. The sleeves?elhow length?are full pul >sely around the arm. A ruffle of lac-e atts ^ Illustration from l.a Coquet. RULES FOR CALLING ? " * *? **? ? ? Viwn %TAm * OA/tTT?f*?xr J.tAvinu UAAiJO nvi. a ovvtsx x FAD WOW. i'lie rules of cart! leaving seem to remain an unsolved or vexed jwtrblem to many Wi?men. anil yet a little thought should do much to clear the mystery- While tnere ?re rules, and quite rigid ones, all are h.iserl ;:pon excellent reason, and once this is understood it will am in mose circums'an ces that, arising unexpectedly, oft puzil one extremely. The rtrst legitimate moment for leaving cards is when those called upon are not at liom*. The next, when cards are left In Heu of calls being made. .Again, when cards are left after certain entertainments have taken place?vlx.. evening parties, l.nllu on.l ?A<Utn % .>? *'<-* - 1, iiai'5 atiu n cuuiii? I c r|H>viio. niau when inquiries during illness are made and after Wreavprnenlf, and now and again to iiotify departure by P. P. C". How many cards to leave and for whom to leave them, brevity's sake may be included under one head, as for wborn to leave cards del-rmines what cards should be left. When a married woman is calling upon another and does not find her at home she leaves one of her own cards and occasion lily one of her husband's. Formerly, it was the rule to leave two of a husband's . *rds when calling upon a married woman, on for the wife ami one for the husband; but tills is no longer done The h^bands meet too trequently to render leaving cards for th -tn anything but a meaningless w*ste of pasteboard. and onsisiuently now only \--ry occasionally are the husband's cards lelt for the ladies called upon. This applies more particularly to women who are intimate with ejt -'i other, and not to those who i all perhaps hut twice or three times in a year. 1 nder such conditions :<n>t w ith such intervals the husband's cards are generally left by the wife when calling Another exc eption Is the vase of first tails when two of the husband's cards ? > ... .1 !... I ..ft it ? . u .. >1. u ?*, " rtiutai-ir in.1UU iii?ii are not in the iULDlt, an yet. of meetis* ?!?< another Oil a friendly footing. \ married woman Irsvn one of her hu?httiKl'H i:ir<la when railing upon :< widow. If alie nil* frequently It ij not nrit-smry nlwavM to leave one of hiK. Doing It delist. * greater formality. The same rule ?;>I>!ie? to railing upon an unmarried woman A widow or unmarried woman returning tile call ot rvunc does not leave one ? her cards for the man. i.t-NMiig rams in mu 01 i umrifc <omes in afi>-r entertainments have been attended. It :* only after dinner parties that dinner f..ests make calls instead of merely leaving cards, and it is only In the event of ? hostess not being at home that the cards a-i- If ft by the ladies calling. A husband's aids after a dinner aie left in any case; the wife's card only in the case above quoted. After all functions before mentinned a married woman leaves one of lier uivn and two of her husbanu a cards. A widow or maiden women leaves one of her i>?n cards. and a bachelor leaves two of his i-ards one for the host and one for the hostess Cards should be left In all in atmic . s wittim mt current wee* of tne function. A little looser time la allowed to dinner guests, as calls, and not merely leaving t-ards. have to be got through. Wedding guests, again, are expected to leave cards upon the bride's mother within two or three days of the wedding reception attended, one of the wife's and two of the husband's cards in the case of married women. It is permissible, when a girl has mada her d?but, for Iter to have her own via Itlnic cards, but it is considered better form fur her name to be engraved on the s;?me card with her motherV The only usm she should have for her own cards is when calling upon others her own age. Even then, If the acquaintance is a formal one. it Is better that her mother's name should accompany her*, and so the doutole card Is better. A few words must be said concerning cards of return thank* for "kind inquiries" and cards of sympathy. I'sually a mar* riod woman leaves one of her own cards ^ with "To Inquire" written upon It, and I ~ only occasionally one of her husband's also. after the first tim? of calling to Inquire; 'rincess Gown. I jFW SKA m >lack velvet makes a most effective re?e slender woman will be becoming, bevaist. With the exception of a panel that ikirt the latter is absolutely plain, and ose to the body, being plain in the back. i?- Biiuuiucrs iu i ne ?op ?i me corsage, ?r buckle. Fashioned in this way the astron or with the neck bare. uritli four or five small buttons may be Its with a narrow baml of velvet that fits iched to this band gives a pretty touch. but when lea\ing cards to express sympathy after bereavement shf would leave one of Ills cards with one of hers, and would write "With kind sympathy and condolence" upon both cards. Cards of return thanks for "kind inquiries" are sent no vwii na mr nn miu 13 L'wiivaicst'pni, and are dispatched either by a servant or by post. Visiting cards with "Many thanks for kind inquiries" written at the top are used for this purpose, and most frequently also after bereavement, when "Many thanks for kind inquiries and sympathy" is written upon the rards. These latter cards are sent in a similar manner as soon after the funeral as convenient and after a fortnight or three weeks has elapsed. The Modish Toque. The toque of today is a tiny thing?narrow. pointed and plquante beyond expres siun. Some of these are set straight on the head, while others are tilted sideways in the jauntiest fashion. These toques are trimmed in various ways?with fruit, flowers and feathers. A charming creation worn by one of the smartest actresses, is In black velvet. In a shape that reminds one of a saucer turned upside down and put flat on the head. This tiny toque was almost covered by small bunches of black and white grapes, with their half-faded leaven and tendrils. j Another toque had the same small, flat fihaitf Knt woo * ? ' !? *?* * ?? " vu>ci uj a ois lopnopnore fclrd?hone that word is spelled properly? In rich shades of blues and dark greens. In front, over the forehead, was a round knot, or, rather, rosette of ribbon in paler green. Roth these hats were built to set straight on the head. The former would look well with a black (sown and the latter with a dark green or blue costume. Then a smart toque In the new bright blue, called Rouen blue, had for its sole trimming one small white wing, set slantwise across the front. This hat was made to be poised at an absurd angle on one side ?# t. ? ul -me nt-ttu. orown is again much worn, and a charming toque appeared made entirely of pheasants' feathers. A Sewing Lesson. To apply Insertions by machine baste the lace on the material, then run a row of machine stitching as close to the edge as is possible; cut the goods from under the insertion, leaving sufficient edge to turn back and sew down. u.miiirr iivuKn inay oe mushed with- J out the rubber at the knee, to which many mothers object on account of Its Interfering with tiie circulation. As a substitute a narrow band may be used as a finish, and into it a short fitted lining, and the full bloomer should be stitched. For children from two to four years of age the animal plushes make serviceable and warm winter coats. Perhaps the moat popular of these materials Is the bearskin. which comes in a number of different colors. Homemade Girdle. \ ! I.ucky the girl who can find In her attic a small piece of the untarnlshable gold or liver all-over lace so much In vogu* a generation ago. With it slie ran make the most fascinating girdle to be worn with a lace gown, either white or black, or. indeed, with any evening costume in a pale color. Cut this lace in the empire shape, high in the back and rounding In front?a slope of six inches is correct. Bone heavily and finish at the back with small choux of light blue, pink or green satin If It is to be worn with o wh(?A rtr HIQ r?lr irrtw n ond.ln at* m-v shade If with a colored gown. Contracting Hem. The contrasting hems that made their appearand very early on evening and dinner frocks have grown to the width of knee flounces on some of the best creations /v# ?Vila nla am Pur fa.-<t DA^nr/l In moa. VI lilM V. tBOO. ? Vt 4 V ?K\-V^vr?vs IU vwtvi vents any patclilnesa of effect, while the velvet la usually cut in some decorative design at the top, which makes the two fabrics appear as if woven together, the irregular joining being concealed by a narrow soutache braid or by embroidery or atltching. PARIS FASHIONS ? Special Correspondence of The Star. PARISi February 9> I was ao Intensely interested tbs other afternoon In Dr. Emit Reich's new book, "Success In Lift," that I read on, forget ful of the hours, until twilight brought me to a realisation of the fact that t should have be$n upending the time Investigating creations for the outside of the head instead of reveling in theoretical creations of the brain. To be definite, I had In my possession' on that same afternoon a magical piece of cardboard admitting me to a very exclusive premiere of spring hats arranged by a famous Rue de la Paix artist. If I tell you later about these charming 0V1 or\ao 11 r da nrlniomna t*rhli^h T Via/1 thn i ^ uc?|/vu ua viv " uivn m. itau ittv pleasure of seeing the next day, may I say a word first about "success" along unsartorlal lines? For unless we are content to drift along helplessly through life our aim Is to achieve success In some form or another. And Dr. Reich gives us the comforting thought that each of us In our own small organism possesses a germ, a microbe, or whatever you like to call It, that, properly developed, should eventually lead us to the realization of our ambitions. * -* * Of course, there are many kinds of sue T n/vt a mrtrnaf n LCOO, nuu * T? JIWI OU5QCOI iUl UI1C moment that it is given to everybody to be the idol of a nation, the creator of undying thoughts or the maker of fabulous millions. The popular idea is that success is either the result of exceptional mental or physical endowments or a mere matter of luck. Certainly on looking around us and comparing those who have got on with those who have miserably failed we often find ourselves pondering over the strange and unaccountable workings of that mysterious force we call fate. WJille most of us thirst for success. It is pathetic to think how few of us have any idea of setting about achlevIne it. Granting the existence of tills de velopinjc line, the rub Is to discover our own particular end of the line. Most people are firmly convinced that they are destined to play the one role in life for which they are least fitted. Then those, too. who have discovered their line are not always possessed of the moral courage to take the risks Inseparable from the attainment of success. To accomplish anything: in the world one must not only take risks, but have unlimitel confidence in themselves and have enough force of character to make other people believe in them. Or, to quote Dr. Reich: "To have authority is the keynote of success. To be looked upon as a person likely to have authority?that Is the essence of practical life." * * * And yet who would deny the fascination, the Interest, of the human failures? Where would history be without its gloriously unsuccessful heroes? Indeed, it is doubtful whether life would be altogether worth living if everybody were quite succcssful. There is on the whole something very de pressing aooui nwsi people who na\e arrived." We are proud to know them; we like dining with them; but, to be quite candid, they do not really appeal to us. The generality of them are common-place. If they are not actually aggressive. A knowledge of how they gained their success would be Interesting, but this Is exactly the part of the story they would rather not tell or talk of the time before they became rich and famous. Then, again, tremendously successful people are usually without a sense of humor, and personally I would rather be a humorous failure than a deadly dull succees. For the life of the IclllUIC LiiH ue JUSl ti.3 UlIUHIlg tus IHR 1110 of the successful ono. The only thing missing is the last chapter and In real life as In novels the last chapter is, as a rule, the most disappointing. Still I am sure FANCIES _ FOE TH] | most people will agree with the poet who j sings: One thing Is foreTer good? Xiiat one thing is success. * * Now for the second lesson?spring millinery. When I looked at the creations spread before my adoring gaze the other day the millinery artist took rank with "them" of the brush and canvas. Her creative powers are perrectly marvelous and her flights of fancy nothing short of genius and, furthermore, genius that achieves success. Certainly modern headgear is a wonderful product of this artistic age, and the value of a hat should never be underrated. The woman of today is better hatted, better colffure.d and better gowned than she ever was before. We may talk LINGERIE PARASOLS. Dainty Light Colors Used Under Sheer Linens. BY A. T. ASHMORK. In the south during the winter a pirasol is more necessary even than during the summer months in the north, for the m!d day sun is extremely hot, and besides has most wonderful power in bleaching and fading all light and perishable colors. Then, too, at the famous fashionable resorts. as Palm Beach, the style of costume that Is worn calls for an attractive parasol with each gown. * The embroidered and lace-trimmed lingerie sun shades are the most popular for *i-?o nnnHiorn trade And the heavv embrold ered linens come a close second. Instead of the tliln piece of material, which Is really no possible protection from the sun's rays, the lingerie parasols are now made up over a thin lining of China or taffeta silk, and this, of course, may be In white or whatever color is best with the dress. At leaat one plain white parasol is neceaaary In every outfit, but the handwork and the lace lnoarH<\im ihnw Hit tf? hrSt adVantfl?A OVftr a color. Many of the embroidered batiste aun shades are really beautiful specimens of work, each panel being specially designed and fitted in. There are some plain linen and crash styles to match the frock of same material that are smart. Of course, quantity Is preferred to Quality, and If It la possible to have any number of these simple, inexpensive parasols for the price of one of the embroidered ones, the best plan Is to purchase three or four for variety. The great advantage in the linen and D&tuue sun snaaes is inm *.uvj tau w easily and often cleaned, whereas silk is bound to become discolored after only one I or two cleanings. i A silk parasol, however, does look moot about the glories of the past, but they M# as nothing compared with those of today, and It U just here that the modern mil' liner shows wonderful Intelligence. She has taken every attractive shape of the old asters and combined their coquetry with the Improved knowledge of the present. I have never seen millinery more wild yet more becoming than the confections for unrlnff In the Rti* la Paix. Rvprv style of face can be suited, and every occasion has been provided for. You can motor In a round turban with the most beautifully shaded wings and soft cloudy effects of waterproof chiffon In the color you love best. You can be an early Victorian lady with lovely drooping brim and trailing feather, a Dolly Varden girl with a ribbon streamer or a dainty watteeu shepherdess with a biscuit colored fine chip hat wreathed with flowers tied with black velvet bow and ends. Or, if you prefer, you mflv Ha n Ofllnahnrnnrh hpmitv while* th<% small coquettish face can wear the "Incroyable" or Napoleon shape, and occasionally these mlgnon features will look charming under a military hat with a field marshal's plume at the side. Such is the up-to-date millinery ? representative of every era. and not without a twentieth century note of originality. m * * Apricot Is a color much exploited In the new hats, but when this fruit shade Is used the confection Is In one tone. A hint will be in order that apricot Is not the choice of the elect, and later In the season It will figure too often In the cheaper chapeaux. One of the greatest novelties Is the plaited satin straw In delicate shades of gray and strawberry and green. Burnt ornnge Is smart, and smoke gray Is ultra chic as a color for the summer hat. A stunning hat In old-time coarse straw Is of London smoke In a funny exaggerated mushroom ..1 ?.? t. M ? otp* linnn aut&pt* 11 iiuiut'u wiiii a IWIBI UI iiiaunca matching exactly and swathed about the low crown. At one side was a bird resembling a small peacock sans Its brilliant green and blue plumage. In this Instance the coloring was gray, with green and blue touches on the breast. Roses are still more than life size. A small cabbage conveys the best Idea of the dimensions of these blossoms. Leghorn hats adorned with a row of big yellow roses with scanty supply of foliage and a cachepelgne of yellow mallnes are most chic. Quantities of ostrich feathers are used in every shade, and coque feathers are to have another run of popularity. A delightful coarse black straw has a twist of gold around a small dome crown and a great cluster of black coque feathers shot with green at one side. * * * A nice Idea for a between-season hat of a dressy nature Is found In some open worn goiaen uasu? lurmuig m> euure nai covering with yellow tulle and adorned with black tips. I should say that, taking it aJl around, the tilt of the hat is lateral, short in the back and shading the face. Some of the Robespierre shapes for wearing with tailor-made suits are in coarse straws with rather wide crowns and a broad band of ribbon around them finished with a wonderful velvet rosette at the side, which looks as if it were going to "take." Among tile flowers pansles in fearful and wonderful shadings are seen, also clover blossoms, and it Is quite certain that we shall see plenty of ribbon decoration, most of the ribbon being: shot and of soft texture. It is too early in the season for the picture hat to appear, but those I have observed are in chip and crinoline with adorn meiiia (u luue ui:u piuinrn. n 19 r \ IUCIU that tulle or mallnes Is going to play an Important part again In the world of .padgear. * * * And the veil! For demitoilet and very smart occasions the veil is conspicuous by Its absence. On the other hand, veil# of clear and becoming mesh are important adjuncts to the morning hats, and I doubt if in these days of traveling by motor we SPT~I I I V E EARLT SmiNQ. shall dare to forego floating chiffon and gauze curtain effects. They are no generally becoming and so useful that It Is a wise woman who remains faithful to them. In small guaze face veils the French variety with tiny chenille dots placed close together is the accepted of Dame Fashion. They are worn drawn snugly over the face aftd hat and caught at the top of the hat brim with a fancy bar pin, a twin pin serving to keep the folds in place at the nonA r\ f t ha nanlr flti/ih a n a r ra it /vn ( I _ ui. *iic tivvn. uuvn 0.11 n? 1 aiigcuiQii 1 IS neat and attractive, but U tabood when one has that plebeian ailment, a cold in the h?ad. As usual In the spring, boas will take the place of fur neckpieces, and this season the flat ostrich affair will be In evidence, together with a host of ribbon, malines and colored stoles inserted with laces. CATHERINE TALBOT. ? ??I????? attractive with a light costume trimmed with bright-colored ribbons and silk, and worn with an elaborate afternoon robe la perhaps more appropriate than linen or batiste. Some of these silk sun shades are of rainbow silk, some of changeable taffeta, others of plain silk or soft satin. The flowered silks and brocades are effective and are to be had in charming colors and many novel combinations. The flowered silks are attractive, especially with a pattern that has one figure large enough to make a single panel. Large garlands of pink roses looped in with blue ribbon and the silk bound with blue make a good design. 8triped silks, and. In fact, every possible design in silk and all grades and qualities of this material, are used in the manufacture of parasols this year, and while there are 8?rae few plain silk sun shades, the ma Jority are an attempt at the effective even If not the expensive. Among the more costly parasols?that is apart from the value of the handle, whiclL may be either plain wood or handsomeljr studded with jewels?the hand-painted silks have achieved some prominence. With the painted and printed chiffon dresses that are so fashionable at the moment, the handpainted silk parasols are just the required adjunct. Then there are the lace and lacetrimmed sun shade, and, of couse, they may soar up In price juat as far as one's purse can meet. An all-white lace parasol is In Itself of sufficient worth to be noticeable, but naturally the lace will receive more attention if shown over a light shade of silk or chiffon. A plain amber stick with a simple hook handle 1s most attractive with a light silk Darasol. Jeweled handles are too valimhl* to ever go out of vogue, but it is by no' means necessary to have an especially handsome handle. Long plain sticks are still the most popular, so that the hinge handle that can be folded up In a trunk Is altogether the best. Plumes?long, uncurled ones?And their way upon a few. but very fsw, children hats, usually white nrn RAINBOW COSTUMES ABB VERY SXABT FOB BBEDESW A TT>fL Give Originality to a Wedding Procession That Robes of One Color May Lack. BY A. T. ASH MORE. It Is extraordinary how rarely the effAntfvA to antKvl.f In a KrMAamaM'o to ouubiii in a ui luvnuioiu a twiuiuc, for here, If ever, there is opportunity for great originality of taste, while the picturesque and the artistlo can be most charmingly carried out. As a rule bridesmaids' gowns are exceedingly pretty, and as almost invariably close attention is given to the details of the frock It Is most expensive, but very seldom does one see a bridal procession that Is in any way distinctive or out of the ordinary, pretty and attractive though the girls may appear. Of course, there is always the difficulty that a aiyia 01 gown oecoming id one may de quite unsulted to another bridesmaid, and with color* there la the same problem, which undoubtedly accounts for the prevalence of pink roses, pink being: a generally becoming shade; but. all the same, even a pink wedding can be made effective If the gowns are of some rather unusual model. The hats are also somewhat unique In design. After all. color counts for more than anything else, and some tone should toe chosen that will have character and be really noticeable for those sitting on the side aisles. Thorn n-? , V J. iret t cii c i j no iiiak ai c cahui.IHC near by. but at a distance are In no way remarkable. and this should be remembered. True, yellow Is a good color, but yellow is one of the most difficult, if not the most trying, shades, and must be studied In ail lights before it Is decided upon. Qreen Is another shade which is exquisite in the pale tints, but Is only becoming to the majority of young girls In the more delicate tones. Blue greens, pastel and odd shades of blue are effective, but the regular pale shade* of hliiP arp fipMom nrpftv nr at loaat nra not often attractive In a bridesmaid's dress. Mauve and lilac were formerly considered unlucky, but superstitions are gradually dying out, and the mauve and lavender bridesmaids' gowns of the past year have been among the most effective that have been seen. Pink lights tip so well and is so apt to be becoming that it is sure to remain tha mno> nnnnlar aha^A tn r- Krt/toa. maid and maid of honor. If one c&res for the orlgnal. the deep tones of pinh or soft tints of old rose are exceedingly pretty, wliile the most brilliant shades, verging toward cerise, will not look too bright in the dim light of a church. It must be remembered that the natural half light in such an edifice naturally robs a color of half its brilliancy. while most wedding receptions are now In the afternoon", when electric light is used, and this often softens a color astoundingly. Rainbow weddings, so called, are most at tractive as a change, and it is remarkable that they are not attempted oftener. This idea can be carried out in two, three, four or even Ave colors If the bridal procession is sufficiently long, and it is now rather the fad to have as many attendants as one can secure. One couple In pink, two more girls in lavender, others in green, blue and yellow. or whatever shades are desired, are sure to make a charming effect, provided the colors are carefully chosen so as to harmonize perfectly together. Frocks of white lace and chiffon, with small brocade coats and hats and bouquets carrying out the most prominent color of the silk, are most effective. These may be all from the same brocage or wilh the rainbow efTect, each couple In a different shade. Then there are the colored costumes, verging from palest to deepest hues of the one color, the bride In pure *vhite, then the maid of honor in softest, most delicate anatie or yeiiow or a aeep cream wnne, ana then each pair of bridesmaids In a <leei>er shade of yellow, the last two being almost orange. The flowers may be roses, chrysanthemums, jonquils?according to Ihe time of year?or of some contrasting color, as orchids, lilies or violets. TO CARBY AN INFANT. Place Hand Firmly on Spine to Support Back and Keep It Straight. Carrying; a baby so that it will be most comfortable, and at the same time so that its tiny frame will not be injured, is a thins that you young mothers cannot learn too quickly. Like everything else. It Is quite simple when one knows how, but I often think of a woman who said that she was really afraid to take her Infant from the nurse for fear if she held him tight annlivk n/\t /* frWa ? -J cuvuB?t Iivi w Uiup IUO 6ii(f nuuiu uc au strong It would liurt htm. To hold a small child properly take him firmly but not tightly In your arms. There is much difference between these two, and the right way must ba learned. With this knowledge there should be also the right Idea how to support the spine, otherwise baby may have not only a bad fall, but may be strained. At birth the spinal column of a normal child is quite straight, but It is also very soft and will bend in any direction that it may be pressed. Instinct of the mother most lacking in the "maternal" tells her that in taking up her baby from a lying i)ubjuuii vug luusi puL iter nana unuer lis back. But all mothers do not realize that 1 when carrying a baby the back must still | be supported by a hand against It Just a little above the shoulder blades, reaching to' the back of the head. You frequently see women holding quite young babies by imply having the arms juat below the trunk of the child. Now, even after it is many months old It needs help to hold Its body erect, and this is given by a hand placed at the back. Another and most important reason for putting the hand against the spinal column is that all babies j have a -way of jumping unexpectedly, or throwing themselves, and can easily pitch themselves out of the arms unless there is this rear guard, as It were. This should be firmly Impressed upon older children when they are holding a baby. If an infant is lying down he should be most carefully taken up that the head may not be Jerked and the spine pulled. To do this as it should be, put the right hand under the body so that It rests flat against the back directly above the shoulders. The left hand Is put over and then slipped under the loins. By this method the entire body Is given support, because, as the child is raised, its little legs will slip themselves under the arm. In carrying a very vminc hflhv th*? hpad ahnuH rent in | curve of one arm and th? other should be placed under to support the whole body. 1 In raising a baby to the shoulder, let it sit In one hand and hold the other firmly against the back of the head for support. Carefully carried in this way after a few months the spine becomes strong: enough to support the head when being lifted, but even then a hand Is needed against the spine that cannot yet bear the weight of the entire body. In carrying an Infant about the house? or anywhere, for the matter of that?It Is well to change the body more or lese frequently from one arm to the other. This rests the mother, and Incidentally gives W.K.r ? 1 1- I ? iiic ucluj a tiisiivx iv udc win nanus iu* stead of one?a form of equal development that Is very desirable. Much better than holding a baby sometime* Is to let him lie on the bed and kick, when he is old enough, putting him first on his back and then on his stomach. The long clothes should be pulled up, and he will then get a good deal of exercise for his little legs. To rest him build a little barricade of pillows at back and sides and then raise him to a half-sitting angle. He cannot get away from this, and the change f? rtvw^ It nhoiilri not hp for mora than ftf. teen minutes at first, and should not be done at all until the child is tour or five months old. Any strong, active infant, when eight or nine months old, tries to walk, and begins by making gigantic efforts to pull Itself to its feet when sitting on the floor. A little of this is all right, but I do not believe in allowing one to do this too soon, tor the bones are not hand or strong enough and will feet the strain. Babies should not be permitted to stand alone before they are ten months old, and mothers should not im worricu u ihcj uiaao uu cuuri iu stand before reaching the ace of a year. ' This Is time enough. Walking usually begins gradually after the Uttle one has become accustomed to standing, but occasionally some child who has been very backward about getting on its feet will suddenly take a couple of steps, but this la out of the ordinary. A small child should be thoroughly aocustomed to standing with the aid of a chair, > etc., before it la allowed to stand alono. | Frocks for ! I M | . Kgi /g| V w fl J 1 ^HHHHKW|B| nHHBm Plain cloth two-piece frocks are smart during the early spring In stripes, checks these garments are patterned are stunning or equally appropriate for a matron. The and absolutely without trimming, except ai or sutening. or a narrow nounce suen as is from Le Monlteur de la Mode. The waist may be either plain, the elotli coming to a point at the waist line in back the edges to give variety and add deoorat lace such a suit Is quite dressy enough for end In cuffs, which flt close around the NOURISHING FOODS FOB A BUSINESS GIRL'S DAILY TfcT"B?rp Dishes That Eaten Regularly Feed the Body, Give Strength and Clear Complexion. People talk about the "new" woman, who adopts a business career and Is "emancipated," ixut dear me! The newest woman has still the same old Instinct that makes her wish to be pretty and attractive. The fact that she Is working shoulder to shoulder with men In offices does not quench the eternal feminine. Indeed, I ain not sure that such conditions do not stimulate it, and quite rightly she wishes to look her best. To achieve this, she must have pretty complexion, bright eyes and nice hair, and to secure them there are absolutely essential two thinks, proper food and exercise, and I think I would add another, which Is fresh air. Now, I am perfectly well aware that exercise is, for the average business woman. Impossible. I am equally certain that It should not be so; that she should take ten minutes In flic morning, and another ten at night, if no more, to develop herself physically. But isn't she always in a hurry In the morning. and always too tired at night? It takes a Spartan to go through physical exercises under these conditions. Therefore she is probably going without AVAMiaa art/1 ctanHa thut miwti l?fli I'tinncii of being pretty, so It Is all the more Important that sh<! should pay attention to lier food, and select the right kind. Nothing is done to help the organs to work off or digest food, and bo she must not put any more on them than can be helped. That she frequently does is the explanation of pimples, "large pores" and blackheads, and requests for cures with which my mall is daily filled. Don't get pimples and large pores, or' if you have them already, change your diet. Make it what it should be?palatabl.e nourishing and not highly Indigestible. That you may know something of what this means, I am going to give a list today of food that will best suit a girl In office or shop. No one mmst think that ?k(n /Hat far a n-nalr nr avftn UJ lUIIUnillQ 11UO Uivv ?v? m n v> v? a month, she will become a beauty, but after a.time she will And her complexion, has softened and cleared, the eyes have -become bright and the hair prettier, as both are largely affected by the general physical condition. It should be understood that brain workers and those whose duties prevent their having exercise .should take not only simple but easily digested food. Meats best for them are beef, mutton and poultry. Pork should never be eaten and veal but seldom. Mutton requires to be well cooked. *%?* hoof ahntiM iinrlprvinntfv None of these things should toe fried. It is not too much to say that a girl who takes little exercise should never eat anything fried. Eggs cooked In any way, except fried, oysters, all fresh green vegetables, and all green salads taken preferably with mayonnaise dressing. If the oil Is goou. Better eat no oil than an inferior quality, but on the other hand, oil Is 90 excellent In every way that It should be eaten more than It Is by girls. -NAbove all eat fruit. Let it take the place of sugar, sweets, etc. For bread, brown, graham or corn Is better than white flour varieties. The first meal of the day should be a light one. because to eat much and hurry is almost taking nothing. I do not rail * Ik- oontmrv T Iklnk n v;uitlc ? iv iiiv v,uniiat>; t ? ? cap of it In the morning is excellent, but I do protest vigorously against drinking It at luncheon, as most working girls take it? a big cup that is made to take the place of food. Let them take a bowl of soup instead at the midday meaL But breakfast every day 1 ntJie year I should begin with fruit, fresh If possible, I but if not, cooked. At this season there I M- r'-i # Street Wear. EB& '' HHHIP" for street wear now, and will be much ??>"l i and plain materials. The models on which \ yet simple enough for a young girl's use, skirl, made on long, graceful lines, Is gored t the bottom, where there are several rows * seen on the figure In the Illustration taken i laid in graduated folds over the shoulders, and front, or braid or lace may be used on ion to the coatume. Worn with a flohu of afternoons. The sleeve* are puffs that > elbow. >. are apples, oranges and prunes. Next let there be a cereal, either cooked or uncooked. It is not necessary to have me?? In the morning, Indeed, a couple of aoft boiled eggs are better-or <'Kgs cooke?l In any way except fried. This, with a cup of coffee, is enough for any woman, and having partaken of these she begins the day with her stomach filled with food that It nourishing but easily digested. Some time 1 am gotng to try to gel followers to the practice of taking raw egg* There is nothing better, and that they ur? not used more this way Is the result entirely of prejudice. One broken Into a glass with a little salt sprinkled over slides down like an oyster and has little flavor. Oim may be taken so easily during the morning, or afternoon. In store or office, that I wish I could get ulrls to try them. One of thes? u 11 unuu in me morning win ao tntn'ii toward preventing excessive fatigue before luncheon. This meal should consist of soup Instead of coffee, and may be as hearty a? one wishes, always remembering: that to eat In a hurry la to Invite Indigestion and baM complexion, so it Is not well to take so much that It must be bolted to be finished in time. Let alone pastries. They are almost the worst things you can try. Take Instead a little simple candy such h* might be given to children. Not rich, or for the matter of that poor chocolates, or A nut mixtures, but some old-fashioned sticks. sweet chocolate, sugar balls and the Ilk*-. Snmii a'OAt ie '-J honl nt al tr nonaata f\- 11.? system, and this Is the best way of taking It. Nuts eaten moderately are nourishing ami digestible, but take only a few, and eat auk with them. Let there be fruit with the luncheon. If you can arrange it. Take a raw egg about 4 o'clock. Dinner should always be eaten slowly and restfulTy. The work of the day is over, and the nerves and muscles are relaxed. Let the meal consist of any of the meats and vegetable* already mentioned, and try al- . ways to have a crisp salad with mayon nalse or French dressing. If you want coffee, take a small cup of It, black, after the meal. Again, don't have pastries. There are substitutes?custards, fruit puddings, rice pudding made with raisins and cinnamon. ft Is so easy to have food that Is digest ible that It Is a shame to ruin one's organs with h PR V V things fhnl- ore nn.it-(nl.in.r anil that give the stomach more work than It <ian perform. Girls will be better physically If they follow the suggestion* given here, and. Incidentally. these are good, not only for those working, but for any one, and mothers would do well to observe them for * thHr children who attend school, and who need nourishing ut the least possible effort to themselves: For the Rainy Daysies. Bellows boots, to which name that of l>el- ^ ows-iongueu gi.oes nas oeen snortenea. -are increasing In popularity among young women who like to b? abroad in all aorta of weather. One of the most enthusiastic rainy daisies In New York is Miss Electra Havemeyer, the Interesting daughetr of Mrs. Henry O. Havemeyer. Miss Havemeyer thinks nothing of splashing through miles of mud. and she disdains an umbrella, too. Attired In a short coat and skirt of light waterproof cloth, with bellows boot*, stretching high above her ankles, and a campaign hat pulled jauntily over her brow, she tramps along in the heaviest rain, enjoying the swirl of wind and water, aid adding to ner physical endurance i>y mean* thai would overtax the strength of less robust young women. As the tongues of the bellows boots are stitched to the tops hII ths~way op. and the shoes are thoroughly Impervious to water, the girl's feet are an dry as If extended In slippered ease on the softest of ruga before a sea-coal Are. Only her face gets a wetting, and the color with which she returns from a rainy stroll shown that doesn't hurt her the least bit in the world. The physicians recommend wet weather walks for thoaa who can stand them as the beet means of keeping the v lungs fresh. They say the air is cleaner during a rain storm than at any other time, not excepting the dreamy calm that follows a downpour.