Newspaper Page Text
F -In* f'ir ni t photograph* ! n fad of th?*
moment. rnf:>rtiinnt*ly In nil ea??? It I* hut ?'u? !fl- 1 hy tl.o result*. for th*r<? eir? " * > ? ?--?* umi.VI .1ui.1t III.". . ?, ?? 11 j i n ir.i M "inn nil **i i i?? fRio t!,p mm?in only throuffh a flltn of skillful!v r '('-it Thf lnteat l?hlm I* to b? p.'o'. iir i on the stairs, A lovuly New YriU society jflr! lias had her portrait pnltii-.ii etnndlnR lit tlio bottom of ft broad of suiti.*, ?>110 foot apparently I# on tli.- V.wfsi step, tii.iMsh the '.rolling draper' - of h*r lot's r!:!r: mol:i< thin a subject of ron.1i Mirr. Great ruffles hang Rincofully ft >m 1 - r elbow sleeves, and tho entire eostumy h. s the effect of a casi-ade of frills and floun' op Crowning her head 19 a plctur - with rosea tucked under the brim. In 1 r n:::is she holds it perky little Isomer I'll!! dog, whos? sable coat makes an excellent fu.'l fur th- symphony In white. It Is ft oi. rmlr.g p.rtralt and worth studying If on 1 ortemplating the agony uf having a picturt taken. The Illustrations show exquisite creations for afternoon toilets On*- frock is in priinros tusyore trirrm-.l with wi ite silk braid. WN.i' i brown ;ik of ti e samr variety makes another, ami the third is a gown uf rose voile and tllet lace. A PrnHpn* "Prnxrisinn T>id you ever spend a summer without a loose separate < oat of some sort? If you diil. you nevor wish to repeat the experiment !t meins positive discomfort?not to mention a probable bad cold. In our < hangrable seasons a light wrap of some sort is absolutely indispensable. Even when one stays at home during the heated months it is useful for riders in the trolley, to slip over sheer gowns on the porch in the evening and for driving or antomobiling. When onv goes to ;i summer rnsnri or visits well. it Is almost better to stay at home thin to go unprovided with a stylish loose coat, for the days when a knitted shawl or capo was considered the height of elegance are past. This is to he a season for separate coats, oven for street wear in the daytime; for evening: use over thin frocks they Slave never been more in evidence. There is a marked distinction between this and last summer's styles. The Well-Bred Person. To look well dressed always is more important than to look well upon especial occasions. It rniki's for good breeding to set and maintain a refined standard in apparel, and la of quite as much importance as tlie correct tahle deportment much more generally inculca ted. To do the right thing. say the right tiling and look right without thinking about It is I to be tit for association with the best of good society, and good form comes only form training, though some eolts take it easier than others. Buying1 Holes. Thf* person who buys a pair of the fashionable new silk gloves pays largely for Holes, lor me tups are worKfu in large holed fa.-luon. Ther? are Italian tops, with great Knglish eyelet holes surrounded by handsomely worked flowers. All are of the ?ain>? tone as the tops of the gloves, which mak.-s them exceedingly smart for street wear. Croquet dresses are taking a very romantic place In the world of dress. The setting of green grass affords an occasion for picturesque dress, and the woman who studies her own good looks is not neglectful Care of Complexion. I With the beginning of warm weather facial treatment. to make the complexion Its best should be changed more or less from that followed throughout the winter. The chief difference lies in reducing the amount of fats or grea.se used, or in neutrilizing them, for the common effect of h"at is to drive to the surface the natural oils that during cold secrete themselves. There is no minor affliction more unpleasant than an oily skin, and one who has it will do well to begin now to use astringents These shrink the pores and dry the cuticle a little. thereby rendering the oils less in evidence But in using any astringents regularly it must be borne in mind tin' if too frequently applied they will onus* dryness that will immediately bring wrinkles. Also it must he remembered that ijmf oils art- essential for fe< dins the skin. As no two skins are practically the same, 1 It is ibly impossible to put down set < rules to the quantity of neutralizing ; lotions th?! may be used, but it should not ! t ik- mny day-; for a woman to know from experimenting what the effect is. and h!i?- hi usually change before any injury fs Jone The slightest feeling of dryness or "tightness" of the complexion means too nrj?-h istringent and reams should be resorte.j t? lmm?dhttely before harm Is riiiv'I The astringent may then be res im- i using less than at first. v* I i i. . 1. ? n# . i <i?- lut ii ,v .u'- i!u- usr '>i th..-. 1 m ist not b?- understood as banishing c 1 iTfims during warm weather. To the c ?titrary. I - ons.d* r them most essential, n t i W'inian with oily complexion, i 'I \v M r ? ]ean.-ing and generally I enettcial, b it w m ;is in . old w?*athrr they are al1 >w i to r?m; n on the face, during the > jrnni' i tK? y shoald be used merc-ly for cleansing or mas-age. and immediately be i? m >?< < i . \ j.-=? of ?warm water and ? finish of astringent tonic. F??r i' r t'.-. 1 would be glad if women ]? : ?.?ing into the sun for any length of tun * lid satarat? their fares with cold < i ini. rubbing in well and powdering, if prop* r'y put on this "rn *.k"-up" do*-s not sr. ?w K. ? n Tor an oily skin I advocate this, c >n uni.ntc indoors h ?w?-v? r. I would have staking v\ t hot -iorhs applied until all the g??-i e :..i< b? :i removed. and after wiping gfnt'y ait thoroughly I would rub in an asir:?ig*'n? and bt It r* main. This decidedly sim;?Ie tr**itme?it would rnak?* the greatest possi ?,. i.iT? r?*n ? .n the ? oniplexion. \r >:r tii vinegar should b?- used in f 111 sireng'h only by those whose skin Is < x< sslvt I> greasy. nd m y be warmed xltfg!if!\ to jrJve the best resuts. All alcohol. p: i . atiuns applied to the ?kin are more flirt*cious when heated a little, for the Li*; rr temperature drives the ingredients deeper into the pores. Ano: her toilet vinegar that is particularly Kootl ft?r ? xtremeiy oily flesh is made of six grams ra.-'n of oil of bergamot and tincture or iftisoin. five grains of oil of citron and ti rt.-.-ti grams of extract of lavender. Put these int. throi- and a half Rills of white vinegar This should stand for two weeks l?efo:c nsiriH and th?-n l>e siralned through c >irse brown paper. It is best applied by I>nttin?c :t t.-.ispoonful into a saucer and diluting with three teaspoonfuls of rosev, iter mopping the face whenever d?*sired. l<-tling It dry on This is softening and gener.illy refilling to the skin THE FRANK PERSON. We nil know and respect?and avoid? s'n'h ihTMins t!.?* world is full of them?too full for the K1 ' 'al i oinfort of its other inhabitants. And frequently what tihey call the tr j11> i* n??t abstract at all. but is merely the x prosit ?n of their own particular ( iml !iHuut'iitlv e rroneous) opinions. Yet as they ntt* i it t!.? y glow with spiritual pride and feel themselves in the same boat as the Christians of the <*atacombs and the rest of tin* noble army of martyrs; never realizing that th? ir cause is no tenet of an inspired creed but merely an embodiment of their own |?rt prejudices; and ttielr sacrifice on its behalf is neither their own life nor w-afth. but merely the feelings and tlie sentiments of other people, saye Woman's Life. Sut h persons are very fond of remarking i (uti ??wr- n i" uirniyrivra tu aaj CA" at :!> what ihi v think; it newr seems to ocrur to thein that they likewise owe It to other* to conceal what they think, if such thoughts be inimical to the general pleasantness and well being of society at large; ? y.*t wurely they have never been taught that th**ii duty to themselves comes before their duty to ihelr neighbors. Jew of the opportunity. There are croquet ground colors, mostly upon the pastel order, and these are chosen as the text for the costume which is to be worn when one plays. Croque't dresses, instead of being short, are inclined to toucih all the way SOME FASH Special Correspondence of The Star. PARIS, May 18, 1007. I have had a shock. I was told the other day that Catherine Talbot wrote too much for the benefit of the girl with an allowance. or to he oulte correct, for the idrl deprived of an adequate one. It seems, so complains the critic, that she is too much given over to hints of how to make a silk purse out of a sow's ear?in other words, that she is on too familiar terms with the puissant "Dodge." a doit)', by the way, assiduously worshiped by the great hcst of impecunious femininity. Now this same fashion chronicler has no distaste whatever for describing "modes" for the fortunate rich?indeed, her metier seems to lie in that direction?but in a spirit of pure philanthropy she has turned from the alluring road of riches to give a lift to the sister on [ i uiner side, sucn is graiuuae. j ne irum [ is. to write fashion stunts for people who spend extravagant sums of money on their clothes is a waste of good time and space. Such women go to the highest authorities, the great couturleres, for Information and do not come to their pet fashion writer for advice or scamper through pages of a fashion magazine. They know none of the joys of making a dollar do the work of live. Oh. yes, the sorrows OI me Ill.iI aic mau.> . ? III.* van I go out and buy any mortal thing they wanl. I They also go out and buy things they do j not want, which is one of the sorrows they ' are called upon to endure, and that is hov. the law of compensation works at times. I Another source of grief is to Vie found in ! the fact that if the rich woman really be1 ? onv s attached to a frock and dares to j wear it half a dozen times the society ! papers say. "Mrs. S. looked as charming | as ever in her customary blac k velvet and I diamonds. ' And tlie groat public which | revels in the doings of" the great says. i ' I I i in' r;i ?i qIui Vim un m*ian A iiil iinlniii;' is pleased except the scribe, who recognizes <iii old friend in the black velvet gown. Hut to come hack to the fashion write r's point 01 view, what on earth is the use of telling people what they already know, especially when one knows that they know it? It is. of course, the misfortune of the fashion chronicler to impart stale ne ws to someb ^y, though some of my colleagues seem to imagine that their readers have no other sources of information and come to them in a virgin state of mind induced by total ignorance. But to do it in cold blood?well, none of it for me, sll vous plait. As to Man's Attire. To talk a minute more of the philosophy of dress, a woman I know whose knowledge of the subject of clothes would have caused the author of "Sartor Resartus," were he still alive, to make Immediate provision for the safety of his laurels, said among other things on this fascinating topic: "Surely women who are constantly studying the lines and the fashions of their own clothes necessarily observe the cut and the lines and the fashions of men's Habiliments. I am quite s\ire that the date of love at first sight could be attributed more than once to a fur coat with a becoming collar or a smart necktie or a wonderfully cut frock coat." Apropos of men's fashions, what the Parisian exquisite wears in the way of sleeve links, waistcoat buttons and studs would only grace the feminine toilet In America. No man need be less a sportsman who retn ft'Mr in his tlo a hnrsfshnp through la tlw manner of a circus liorse anil jockey. Yet this design i-s considered eminently good form from the viewpoint of the "sporty" Frenchman of the betlcr class And I am quite sure the most reckless man about town in your country would not venture out with a flight of wild clicks decorating his scarf or the golfer be tempted Into appearing on the links with diamond clubs terminating in hunting crop handles as an ornament. Still the severe simplicity of the really well dressed man Iis not. after all. such a simple matter as meets the eye. It suggests the famous retilv to the Question. What is a gentleman? "I know one when I see him, but I can't describe the beggar." The Traveling Gown. I will get Into more trouble with my critic If I keep on exploiting the styles o( the sterner sex when most women In thla Tlllxi tit r i THREE MOI j around, and the materials are of the sheer | order. With the croquet gowns there are 1 worn wide and very picturesque croquet i hats. wmen are anunaantiy trimmed wuti : lilacs and roses, the two making one of ' those attractive combinations so popular ION CAPRICES ! month of May are thinking about their traveling gowns and wondering whereof they shall be fashioned." The sDrlnc air not only makes a young man's fancy turn to thoughts of loye, but induces a general all-round impulse toward thoughts of flitting. as the Scotch say, and, madame, let me beg of you not to purchase a regulation stuffy traveling frock, 'j .iey are as dead as the dodo, for fashion lias elected to go on its pleasuring this summer comfortably clad in light and dainty garments, choice being only dependent upon the weather. Luxurious and clean train service, together with the universal getting about by motor car, has made the donning of linen, light silks, chambrays and muslins posible. Indeed, a group of woman travelers this summer will suggest a gay lot of guests bound for some out-of-town garden party, which in a number of cases will prove the actual destination. When taking long journeys the ultra-modish Parisienne will don a muslin traveling coat. Tills, I think, is ?*arrying a good style to an extreme, for a silk or pongee wrap is more to the manner born. There is an embarrassment of riches in smart materials this season, and merely to see them is to conjure up one picture after another of the charming frocks to be evolved from these dainty stuffs with the assistance of laee and fancy ribbons that are to lavishly trim the summer gowns. Fashion points emphatically to flounces as skirt decorations, and the up-to-date jupe lends itself as a foundation for them, from the graceful Spanish flounce down to the tiniest of bias ruffles. When the skirts are /V c.??t h! \ i^cr* ICTE* ^m JBBfnS^^a^^^^^f^BEKE^^>TpJ^: v?' *?Mff?Effi | v| i^Bl )EL STREET COSTUMES IN TUSS( now. Indeed, rose and lilac are the two colors of the season viewed from a picture point of view. TIlP mixlprn rlmf l? a nortlpnlaplv !- ? - "' J I chic affair. Whether it be intended for | motoring or merely for traveling uae it I WHICH ARE r ruffled the sleeves also carry out this motif. The small flounces are used In a pretty fashion for panel effects arranged tier upon tier, fluffing out until the desired lines are reached. Lace insertions not infrequently outline tlju?e panels, adding greatly to the attractiveness of the frock. One of the most fascinating novelties of the present season is the richly embroidered sash which accompanies some of the evening gowns. This sash is picturesque in every sense of the word. It is made of the finest quality of crepe de chl*. and measures about three yards in length. All rounu me ruge u is emuroiuerea in metallic threads, and the ends are fringed and thickly covered with mbrolderies of the same kind. These sashes encircle ,the waist, and are carelessly knotted at the left side, the ends falling almost to the hem of tlia dross. Genuine Indian and Turkish embroideries are to be seen on the best of them, and the smallest of small paillettes are used to form a sort of glittering background for the embroideries. A touch of black is again in favor with the French couturieres, and in black crepe de chine, with embroideries in silver, gold and copper, one of the sashes mentioned is a lovely addition to a soft liberty satin in a delicate pastel tint or on robes of mousseline de sole ins^t with heavy lace. White Hats Modish. In millinery dead white hats relieved with dark facings to make them becoming are to be the modish things later on in the sea| son. When this all-white-and-black scheme STYLES FOB. MADEMOISHT.T.TE. itv 1 f IHd^S DUE SILK. succeeds in fulfilling Its humble purpose without being prosaic and unbeauitful. Of course one may buy an ugly dust coat?the shops are full of them?but there is no good reason why one should choose an unattractive model, for attractive ones are slOW CURREN' is nui iikcu, a smari note ui color is kiycii to a chapeau by adding one of the freak roses commercially known as the sable rose. This anomaly in the floral world is pale pink in the center and black on the edges. The Bathing Dress. Some wonders are always new, and the summer girl's bathlnf suit is of this order of phenomena. Her aquatic raiment when seen at the beginning of each season seems like a novel event even when the girl herself Isn't new. This year the bathing dress Is decidedly noval in cut, and Is princess in style. After this royal model has been modified, twisted and tortured into slight resemblance to Its original glory, and everywhere has had Its effect on the dress of women, it now condescends to invade the sea. The shaoelessness of the modern par. ment in which the pretty girl takes her dip into the waves has long been a source of trouble to designers, and they are consequently Jubilant over their latest find, which goes far toward solving the problem of gracefulness and comfort. Its snugness at the waist breaks up this usual baggy line of demarkation that in the old suits is so objectionable. And yet this plainer model need not be more frank in outline than the most voluminous of the flour-sack type. The material best suited to the requirements of the princess bathing costume is a taffeta silk sold especially for this purpose, but pongee and fine serge are also attractive. The smartest suits are in one tone, and the fashionable brown is a favorite I tlV? - iMon 2^H2S^^fc^gS^a3^^UES^^^^-. k ' j^Rjf shown on every side and at all prices above $10, though the best of the practical range I from $25 to $50. There are imported coats only less delicate and lovely than the airy summer frocks they are intended to shield, and quoted at all prices that are prohibitive r IN PARIS. selection, although black and blue are always popular. Braid In self tone is the trimming used. The bloomers are cut In the usual way, with darts over the hips to avoid unneces Bary bulk, and elastic holds them at the bottom just below the knees. The empire stjle also makes a bid for aquatic favor. It is carried out in heavy washable silk, and the skirt is plaited around the waistband to give fullness. The blouse is rather short-waisted. and there is a folded girdle that is brought up high in the- back and pulled down low in the front. The empire is especially adaptable for the slender woman, as the princess mode is for the more generously proportioned. Both have a point In common?that Is, their exclusiveness for a season at least. LATHH.K1.M1. IAIjOUI. LENGTH OF BLOUSE SLEEVES. A reader of Women's Interests asks about the correct length of blouse sleeves. The question Is a timely one. and the answer Is that they will be of an appropriate length. In other words, the style of the blouse will determine the length of the sleeve. Tailored blouses will have long sleeves; lingerie blouses, elbow length. The iron-bound rule for sleeves Is that the long shoulder effect be given either by the cut of the blouse proper or (he fashion of the sleeve itself. In the strictly tailored blouse the drooping effect will be gained by plaits and a long shoulder seam rather than by the real kimono or cape sleeve, which for laundry purposes would be awkward and not particularly appropriate with a severe bodice. THE FORGET-ME-NOTS. The easiest of all the floral crochet flow- I ers to accomplish is the ever favorite forget-me-not. which, owing to its graceful and dainty proportions is especially valuable for decorating articles such as sachets, bags, nightdress cases and other .small Hems. It is particularly pretty and effective I worked in Florence silk, and for such a tiny j blossom is no more expensive to use than ! the threads. The shades required are two j of blue?one of these should be of the shaded variety?one medium pink, one deep yellow, and two of a leaf green. The Flower?Make a tiny ring of four chain, and Into this work four chain, one double ehoehet and repeat until five little loops are made, and these form the petals. Fasten off neatly. The size of the flowers may be varied considerably by working a little tighter or i looser, as the case may be, but It Is a mistake to get them too large. The Leaf?Select a pretty leaf green, make nineteen chain and proceed to make the leaf with treble and double crochet. Shade by using different greens and working some leaves in dark and some in light: the length can be varied by the number of chain, says Woman's Life. Tho arp wnrlf A/? 11 nnn tlia rloof trn in stem stitch, and the woe buds are also put in with embroidery stitches. The leaves and flowers are then sewn into position, and the flowers may be touched up here and there with t>!ie pink, many of the buds also of pink. Lastly, work the tiny yellow centers of the forget-me-nots with a single French knot. A PRINCESS AND POCKETS. The Princess of Wales, who gives so many orders to I .on don firms, has one idiosyncrasy that must be obeyed. She heartily disapproves (so the Reader Informs us) of the non-pocket tyranny meted out by some dressmakers to their customers, and will not tolerate the placing of pockets at the foot of j the skirt among t>he ruffles beneath it. says . AVoman's IJfe. For her royal highness 1 pockets are always provided in the seam s that appears upon the left of the front I breadth of the skirt, a position that rather s arbitrarily dictates a similarity in skirt i trimming, especially when muslin frocks are l being made. l v m . la an fur na the avi>r?n<? woman la conrfmed, but thrue creations ar? for decorative effect rather than for aurvIce and hardly deserve to be rut.kr<l In the duat clean. Dnlnty Footwear. The outing nhoe rnomMi-a the street ahoe In that It la n thin* of extravasance thla season. The trend toward tun la noticeable. * 'lit* Kin w iiusr uress i\itownr,,,? in not at ail limited has ordered no less than six pair* of street and outing shoes, all cut upon the same last and varying only In the ftiilckncss of the sole. They are ail to be made of pale tan-colored leather with white canvas tops. This ts the very smart style of street shoe The tan leather Is out upon the fnsh- * ionable mold, and the tops arc grayish canvas. cream canvas, white and a very paid tan. As to Environment. Every woman knows the value of having accessories and surroundings which liarmonize with the gown she is wearing, but few have gone so far to obtain them ?s women, aware of the Importance of a suitable frame for a beautiful picture and having the money to gratify their desires have numerous reception rooms In their homes ? as many as six sometimes and each one arranged in a different color So. whatever color the hostess is wearing, she is able to receive tier guests in a background that "matches." Women who cannot compass more thin one reception room may take comfort In the reflection that there is one color which never quarrels with any reasonably delicate tint. What color that is may be learned by noting the part played in a well arranged nosegay of flowers by dull green. That Witching Curl. From time immemorial the pretty girl with a curl has been a fit subject for romance. The poet needs no more to start him off on a sentimental flight. As If to encourage him in his complimentary vfrscn tile charmers of the present day do not trust to the single curl to inflame his Imagination. Some of them sport whole clusters of . curls, which, it is whispered, come ready to wear. Just like hats and coats. They are represented by a collection of names, these curled and puffed elaborations, which would have rejoiced a court hair dresser In Marin Antoinette's day. when the nomenclature of , the modes was fairly exhausted. A SEASON OF LIGHT MATERIALS. ? i As to the tatlormades for spring and Slimmer a Reason of light colors Is Imminent. Materials all along the line of worsteds, cheviots, serges and their kind proclaim it. I^ovely effects are found In the serges and cheviots of white ground traversed with stripes of many widths, from hairlines up. Stripes are very conspicuous In all showings of dress goods, although it cannot be said that checks and blocks seem to have lost any ground. Thfl white grounds are striped or cross checked W1UI SOU Drowns, Biirtri, ui?' rv, *ri> ... some of the pieces touches of color are introduced. Black frocks are to be much in evidence this season, and a number of beautiful models are decorated principally wittl laces, usually two or three kinds, but a little pood embroidery in skillfully harmonized colors gives a French air to a tine black gown that Is most desirable. Black linens and cottons are prettiest in soft fabrics and the embroidered Swisses are exquisite. One unusually effective pattern lias a black ground striped witit closely set hairlines of white and is sprinkled with tiny sprays of lilacs. It Is charming for a second morning costume or makes up effectively with bits of blue satin. Coiffure Decorations. Pretty, fluffy hair ornaments of ribbon, gauze and tulle are now taking the place of the more expensive aecorauons uemanum by the elaborate toilets considered an essential part of winter festivities. Possibly the fashion of going without hats during the summer Is responsible for the many pretty novelties, for certainly these show an Increase in variety as well as Improvement In design. Heavy pins. Jeweled combs and immenwo aigrettes iiave been worn so much during the long winter that the array of light, dainty hair accessories holds one with an especial fascination. A bow of pale blue ribbon gauze containing a fenthery spray is a pretty decoration for youthful matrons, and will be seen very much at summer "dances." Now that linirn?-to fi-u ^ are so nDTtii!flr fur th ('SO In formal functions, the fancy for giving a touch of color to the toilet through hair ornaments is a pleasing one. For Instance, as a princess frock in lingerie does not lend itself well to a colored itecoration, but looks Its best entirely in white, a dainty touch of color In Uie hair supplies a double need, for It gives adornment and character to the costume, l.ess elaborate but equally pretty is the tulle rosette that comes in black, white and all delicate shades, and now that the Virginia curl coiffure Is so much in evidence these little flat puffs are really an aid, where locks are scant. One or two, as found necessary, may be worn and will sue I t'saiunj itirvc- uic piuv-c <>i i ui m. Black is pretty as an addition to fair hair, and colors, either matching or contrasting with the gown worn, will he in good taste. Silver and gold butterflies fastened to a pin and held aloft on a spring stem will never go out of fashion, and t.he fancy for ribbon garnitures is ever on the increase. Young girls Just turning up their hair favor this simple arrangement, so well in keeping with their years, too. Roses and buds looking as natural as the growing ones are to be had; forget-menots. mingled *fwlth maidenhair fern and velvet pansles of ribbon, are strikingly attractive. There are. I know, many directions and much advice offered for the making of ribbon flowers at home, but, in my opinion, the money spent is renlly value less, for it require^ the utmost skill in producing: anything even satisfactory, to say nothing of actual success. Far better to Ret a pretty ribbon rosette tied at the counter and add a spray of ferns, or buy ihalf a. dozen buds and arrange prettily. A 1k>w of pink ribbon may be made to look almost like a "real rose" once the buds are combined and a bit of fern added. A pretty ornament for the girl who wears her hair rolled back from the face and dresses It low In the back Is to tuck a rose and a few buds behind each ear and connect them in a looping fashion with narrow ribbons. Another decoration suiting the hair dressed pompadour with roll puffs as a back * arrangement is to pin roses at the top of the head and again quite low in the nape of t.he neck, taking care to set them on so that the front and the side view Is good, then connect them wiMi a band of network sonicthing after the Juliet cap style. The mesh may be of chenille the color of the flowers ? or of gold and silver thread. Of course, this more elaborate ornament Is only fitted for some formal occasion, but the single rose or simple forget-me-not Is appropriate at all times. IjOng. flat combs are no lonc-r < onsldered smart, the newest coiffures calling for lighter decoration. A bar of tortoise shell inlaid with traceries of silver or stones and attached to tihe hair pin is a new idea, and pins the Virginia curls down to the head. Short daggers, also of tortoise shell, both plain and Jeweled, answer the same purpose and hair pins topped with a fanry knob not unlike an elaborate hat pin arvariations of the new comb or hair pin. Tho high Spanish comb Is still worn, usually as a support to a figure eignr arrangement or til*1 11:iir, am! Miese exhibit some of the most px.iulslte traceries. Carvings representing lilies of the valley and dainty etnpiro wreaths of tiny flowers are among the designs that ornament them. Now that bandeaux have almost disappeared from the bark of the hat. a n?-w omb has been devised in order to keep th>? nat properly in place. It is an ordinary shaped long comb with wavy teeth?in order ;o better hold?with live outstanding pear shaped knobs, that are quite ornamental as "oafiil Th.? nrntir n rtf t)<a liat <tr I n I'll <10 n.?* iv??. * 11V v v n 11 ?* mv " A ? lie bandeau. sets on these and thus presents slipping.