Newspaper Page Text
HE rnr^not braid has hrrnmp a
$ modish rart of t)ie up-to-date 1 coiffure, and one young cynic lias dubb.>d those . >f her a cqualntances who. with the advent of this braid, exhibited an absurdly Hidden wealth of "crowning glory" as "nouveau riches." This same young cynic, betn* endowed ordv sparsely by Mother Nature with tresses, has adopted a pretty n ^ NEW FALL AFT1 Nev BpecUl Correspondence of The Star. PARIS, August 17. 1907. A FRENCH scientist has Just made the startling: announcement that on a diet of s* ur milk no one need grow old. This simple prescription does not sound Inviting, and one Is only a little consoled when one hears that something sweet must be taken at the same time. It to turn sour Is the deadly enemy of the germ that Induces old age. so that, given the defeat of the latter, middle age may be prolonged Indefinitely. The famous scientist mentions a case of a woman in France who. living upon cheese and go it's milk, reached the extraordinary age of one hundred and Mftv years, and another instance (juoted is that of \ notable traveler visiting t?ome part of Afrlea after an interval of many y. ars who recognized natives he had s^en as very old rn- n on his first visit. They were not I- oking a bit older on the second visit aid had lived in the meanwhile up??n a tiU-t of >*>ur rnilk. All this is very w mcieriui ar.u encouraging lo me middle aged. but isn't the prospect rather alarming for youth? What weary waiting for promotion when the seniors refuse to g?t senile. What an outlook for tin- girls when fascinating middle age remains fascinating forty or perhaps fifty years. Surely attractive society matrons art- having things about their own wa> under the present regime, hut imagine the possibilities for further ?oru|Ue?t on a sour-miik d'et. Paradoxical Modes of the Moment. Now to talk about the science of dress, that most alluring of all the cults to femininity Apropos of this subject I overheard a clever Parlsienne the other day liken ttie trend of present fashions to a salad, the ingredients of which are Japa ne?e s.ecvejs. uurcii nroks, a pinch of eighteenth century at the w:t;M, Russian laces and Hivlo: peasant skirts, lientie sarcasm asi-ie. tl < styles of the day are certainly a bit paradoxical, to say the least, and although th-> partake of every period of every nate n, yet they are distinctly of the moment I the rumors that are atloat in the reaim of sarti.-ri.il affairs are to be depended upon so early in the gam we are o'.iy r.? haw one extreme for another In t)a- f t 1: S.?i? ves are to come down to the knuekh-s or; afternoon co5?tumes; on ali tr.H-k.s t i. % w.ll be long anil skirts will l-are'* t.?M?*h the ground ail round, except lr; tie ? r?ter of t!.e back, where they will branch ?>ut in a narrow pointed train. l-et us 1.these jupes will lie confined to indoor w ?r. fi?r what could be more absurd than to So hopping aloag the streets with this bird likr- appendage? Truly in this particular instance if we looked .it our feet our feathers u uld fall. The couturiers m b? nt upon our destruction this autumn. for they are going to make our shoulder* narrow by running the armhole up to the neck. Just consider what the '.o;:ir -shoulder eff. r 1. ?.a ?hm*? ti\r n? a' 1 ui?H weep for the styles that soon will be no nn?rr With the short waists, narrow shoulders and sk.mp) skirts that are prom l?~d what tat ** !. ? wy ar?- going to !>? for the w?t of the funny man The Shot Plaid Comes. It is saul that to he a succor socially one must amuse, ft-ed or shock society. i 'outurters evidently think that their patrons demand wry much the sain^ attri hute* from fashion To shock has been their metier lately, ami the latest thrill i'uiw'S In the form of shot plaids Th:? lnt<-vation certainly does not make for the arlist.r. ms the gaudy colors of the Tartans are inert-ased by the shol It only K<?es* to ,?ru\?- that the taste of the m.?>s?s N still uneducated. otherwise it wo.ild makr for better things. I'p In .? a>mewhat different class of novelties is the monogram slipper. This piece of eccentricity was launched by a pretty *il who was hound to outdo her sister*, so slut ha 1 her monogram placed across the to? of he* slipper in Italian ail wot k. li ihSm HI ^ substitute for the fashionable coiffure effect. | Instead of the braid, she winds around her i head a broad band of satin ribbon, letting j it dip at well-selected points beneath the looks. For day wear she always dons a ribbon to match the color of fcor hair, but j fur evening the ribbon exactly matches her gown. The ends of the ribbon, lr.sle.id cf being tucked from sight under her hair, are | fastened at one side toward the front of the j 2KN00N MODEL. v Fads PAR] i.* difficult fur the casual observer to see this proprietary right, but it marks the slipper as designed especially for the , wearer, and ft is exactly this little bit of j fleeting celebrity that she is seeking. riuau iu nr tasmonRDie. If there is anything In the world of fabrics uglier and more bourgeoisie than another when made up Into wrips and j coats it is plush, but upon good authority j I ?e are told that this material is to have i Breat vogue next winter. A rich, deep j 1 shade of brown will be used for .fapa- J 1 nese sacks and long Ixtuls coats I<ittie i I plush stoles edged with fur are to rival ; j those of fur. As purple, brown and green j I are to be the three lending colors of the j i coming season, they will harmonize per- | ! fectiy with the Dins* A Hint to the Wise. n is oy me cnoice or ner collar. her shoes, her grieves, her hat and uer sunshade that a woman s taste in c"??ess is revealfd. not are of these 1 terms must strike u discordant nuie in tlio lout en AT 'V head with a Jewel or an artificial flower, or they are tied In a Ion? bow which trails to the shoulders. Another becoming coiffure adornment affected by young matrons is the morning cap of lingerie and lace. This piece of frivolity flaunts itself in the shape of a jaunty sort of mob cap. Mrs. Cornelius VanderbiH has a charming collection of these caps which she brought from Parts. Every one of her exquisite neglige costumes has a cap to go with It. One costume of sheer white lawn has eyelet embroidery In pale blue line, and its cap has a rufSe of similar embroidery. Apropos of lir.gerie effects, are not the frocks in the Illustration charming' examples of this fr?r\r*? Th? matron's frr?ck of -white handkerchief linen, v.ith bands of lace inset about the sk!r\ and the gown of"Irish lace and eyelet embroidery Is bewitching- with its pmart little bolero of lace. The elbow-length sleeve is undoubtedly booked to (to, and the new sleeves will come to the h&nd3. If not to the knuckles. Rut whether the sh^rt sleeve will go is another matter. The creators of fashions havp enacted many decrees that have been willfully disobeyed. One of them was the death of the short skirt, another the disappearance of the shirt waist, or blouse, as It was more euphoniously named, and a third was the attempt to introduce crinoline or hoops. >11 of these and many other enactments were null and void. In these days women show more sense than In the post in the matter of gowning, end a sensible and at the same time comfortable fashion is quite sure of a following to all time by the masses of wimen, including many of the modish world. These fashions need not always be becoming: to Insure their life. The short skirt la not nearly so graceful as the long one, hut even for the street the skirt escaping the pavement by an Inch is seldom seen save on women who ro longer pretend to be below middle age. The skirt varying from three Inches to five nnd even six Is seen everywhere. and Its wearer may be eighteen or forty-eight, fat or thin, tall or short, She means to be comfortable, and the men applaud her for It. for. after all. men like sense The blouse Is also with us to stay. It Is Inseparable from the coat and skirt costume, whether long or short, elaborate or simple The Cowboy Hat. The prevailing mode of the moment In millinery Is decidedly the cowboy, sometimes called the geisha shape, the brim caught up at an angle considered becoming found to bp exactly in the front; another face will be better suited if the brim turns up on the left side front. The pin holding the brim in place has entirely disappeared except on the untrimmed ready-to-wear hats, hut these are not considered quite up j to date, the jaunty, trimmed duck outing hats having entirely superseded them. For young women the scarfs make the prettiest trimming, and they come in a variety of qualities and pHces, suiting all pocketbooks. A neat scarf in soft cotton, with colored stripes on an ecru background, the ends fringed, will cost 50 certs. Wide scarfs of generous lengths In n finer grade of cotton, made very dashing looking by mears of lanre colored lozensre snots woven in silk, are only a dollar, while for double this price and upward lovely silk draperies in Roman stripes are to be had. Popular Fall Materials. It is rumored that white and cream cloths will be the most popular materials for afternoon wear this fall, for It seems that we are to use less and less of the lighter weight and more perishable goods for street costumes. Besides, a great deal of moire is appearing Just now in Paris, and, it is worthy of note, it is being elaborately trimmed with jet ornaments. However. although most of the more stately moire costumes are made up in black, there are many charming gowns of white moire. This new material la very different from the old moires, for it has changed radically in both weave and design, all the newer specimens being dull flnlslied and glowing I instead of glistening. while In many pat- | terns the beautiful Watteau colorings are I exquisitely reproduced. In making fine stocks and embroidered I and Fas :SIAN COSTUMES FOR EARLY FALL semble. and their selection presents many [ ditticulties. The gown alone does not necessarily reflect the wearer's taste, for it 1 may nimply be the happy choice of a : clever dressmaker, but the clever dress- j inunor 13 not always mere to aavise on I the so-called details, a slip in which j may entirely mar the effect of a oeautiful | Kown Here every woman has to fall back upon her own resources, and. to Judge from the results, there ur? precious few who can b?nr the strain of so much responsibility. It Is ?iuit* impossible to frive any precise advice on these matters in print. Only the broadest Indications are possible. A woman must rely upon her own Intuitions, her sense of color and her refinement for the rast. It is more difficult to achieve harmony now that contrasting colors are the ra?e. and, by the way. the smartest combination is purple and nattier blue. At flrst ptght it seems aa though the path hud been made smoother for u? now that we may wear n coat of one shade und n "nklrt ot another and hiita In complete opposition to the lest of the ultlro. As u matter of fact, there l!e? tho trup. Many unarm, too, await the umvury in the direction of colored gloves. It was IfllnMi lWUl'Il collars the best effects are obtained not by using coarse, heavy material, but by talcing i a double layer of a fine quality of linen. Stamp the outer piece before the two pieces are basted together, and then be careful to lay one portion on the other very evenly and smoothly. In the embroidering, par- I , ttcularly in the doing of open or eyelet | work, it is far better always to begin with ' | the inner parts of the design, leaving the edge until all the rest of the needlework has 1 been completed, the reason for this being that, if in the embroidering of the Inner part the linen has been even slightly pulled, the outer edges of the collar may be ripped apart and carefully rebasted until everything lies smooth and straight again. Rainy Day Suits. The woman who wears an old, shabby gown on a rainy day Is not fashionable this season, for there come pretty pavement gray tweeds and thin novelty suitings specially for the purpose. They can be made np into the nattiest little suits, and, as cold , weather approaches, the coat can be cut j double breasted and buttoned with big flat , horn buttons. There are utility suits of pongee that are 1 not really Intended for the rain, but for general wear and for tramping both In town j and in the mountains. A lovely dress of this variety Is made of golden brown pon- ' gee laid in side plaits and trimmed with ' three bands of brown and white striped i silk, laid flat. The plaits must be pressed very hard to hold the silk folds firmly in place. There is a little straight coat coming to the hips. < Storm accessories, by the way. are now very fashionable. A woman has a pair of i brown shoes with brown rubbers to slip on i over them. She has brown cloth uppers to ] protect her ankles In the rain. Her um- i brella Is a big brown silk one. and her hat I is a rough brown straw, trimmed with i quir.s. To Freshen a Cotton Frock. If you have a checked or striped cotton null that distinctly needs some olid color to give it character when It may not be enough faded to throw It away, then get cotton or linen In a plain color, cut It Into bias bands three or four Inches wide and use three of these on the skirt or even five " TV\ ?>/* otttrh f Knm a q 11 JTUU t?ic D1C11UC1. ou.v.. ?V... In the old way. except at the extreme edges with a self-colored thread. The hands covered with stitching are not In fashion. Do not begin placing these bands on the lower edge of the hem In cotton frocks as in handsome ones. There Is always a difference made here. On the cotton frock , the bands begin about four inches from the foot line, sometimes six Inches, and are continued at wide spaces apart. In dressy 1 frocks of fine fabric the new method is to put a six-inch band at the exact edge of the foot line, and then three small bands ; close together around the knees. Paris has gone quite wild over placing the wide band of black satin on almost every frock where I the colors will combine. j 5 unoose a uecommg vwnuro. The very greatest ca.ro should be exercised In choosing one's coiffure or In changing from one mode to another. Indeed, the j safest plan is to try not one but many < styles of hairdresslng until some model entirely satisfactory Is found, and then this one should be worn regardless of changing 1 fashions. , Certain styles suit certain faces, one ar- ( rangement being the more becoming to an , oval face and another to the round face, but, then, all are not of the true types. There Is the short oval, the narrow oval, oval Inclining to plumpness and the long perfect oval face. Equally numerous are the different varieties of the round face. 1 There is the so-called perfect type of round I face?that Is. neither too thin nor too fat? i the plump round nice, the broad fat face ( and the very round short face. Then there is the sharp pointed face to be considered, ' the one with a receding chin, and the type < possessing a very large or aquiline nose, so 1 that it can be plainly seen that, while directions may be followed with satisfactory I results, it is simply Impossible to set down ' any hard and fast rules, because so few 1 >hions Fj easy enough to be suitably gantee in the 1 days of white kid. but now that colored 3 gloves are correct much care must be ( exercised. And only one mors warning- -beware 1 of all eyes being Inevitably drawn, at- * traded, lured and fastened to your feet, p It 'a your fault if they are. Your feet g must never be allowed to assert themse'ves. \ " however pretty they may toe. or they will ! lose in beauty. A Safe Middle Course. I e The plaited skirt that has been our faith- j ful friend for so long a time Is again to be < a favorite model in trotting lengths. The ' ^ new models differ only from the spring < ^ skirts in the fact that they are less trimmed t and that there are no medallion, circular or . t wail of Troy effects about the bottom of j q the skirt. On the other hand, a'l trimming ' \ is straight and stiff. The smartest adorn- j i ment for a fall cloth eown after the new <J flat braids have had their innings will be ! o bias bands of mo'.re silk. But the stout e woman should beware of these all round g lines, as they cut off her apparent Inches, i Another don't for this unfortunate ladv Is r that she should ne^ar have her waistband ' AND I women have features that come up to the standard of perfection. Filet Lace Coats. Filet lace coats are the latest fad of Parisians. They may be trimmed with Sowers cut from cretonne and chintz and ippliqued on, embroidered in coarse floss or treated in other ways, and may he loose or close fitting, but one thing obligatory is that the fllet must be coarse and very open and therefore more than ever like curtain lace. Fllet Is durable, and as long ;is It is fashionable and is made expensive In its treatment With emhr<iiH?rv ami It Is desirable, for too many of fashion s fancies are as perishable as they are expensive and beautiful. Smart School Dress. From the DfUiintor. There should always be at leas* one sailor suit?either a one or two-piece dressIn the little girl's wardrobe. It is the acme jt comfort, and It Is always smart as well is practical for every-day wear. The one-piece sailor suit Is a new and particularly smart design. This model is :arried out In the perennially popular darkblue serge. It may, however, be developed equally well In serge of some other color. lit cucuacu ui ui pmiutru wuui, or m pique with or without the fleece lining. All told, fl 75 will cover the cost of a suit, with materials bought at retail and cut directly from the piece. The length required may often be found among remnants, and a possible saving be thus made in the estimated cost. It is always advisable to study the pattern directions before buying, in orier to know the exact length required. The following list shows the items of cost: 2% yards of blu* serge (SO Inches wlds, at 39 cents |1.08 14 yard of canvas, at 25 cents 13 1 spool of sewing silk OJ Hooks soil eyes 03 1 set of emblems 23 Butterick pattern 1123 13 Total $1.75 Millinery Note?. Wired lace millinery bows, reminiscent of the sails of a toy windmill, are a mllllnerv fad. The centers are caught with large Jeweled ornaments which form the only trimming on some of these cloche hats and are quite a new development in the realm of headgear and form a welcome change to the usual decoration of flowers and feathers. As regards the latter, they have been sub i^vieu iu qune a. new arrangement, ana in place of the old convention, which ruled that the feather should always take up a position on the left of the hat when the trimming was relegated to one side only, the feather is now Invariably placed on the right, the effect representing quite a revolution In the eyes of those who are Influenced to a great extent by the rules of Drecedent. The blue convolvuvus seems almost to liave taken the place of last year's hydrangeas. and the new hats are often massed with these blooms, accompanied by their clinging tendrils, so many being in some lases employed as to almost cover both irown and brim. Spun Glass Hair Wigs. A rHfirlaI hair r?f jintin clnuu will r*o_ place as wig material real hair from the heads of peasant girls, which is becoming more and more difficult to obtain. While the demand for human hair Is growing snormously. the supply Is shrinking because hair selling has been forbidden by :he governments of several countries. Spun glass hair can be made as a perfect substitute for the real thing and to 'defv detection." Its texture Is soft and )eauttful. and any shade can be produced. rom Par: Ight. which mistake is apt to give her a l >unchy appearance below the waist line. I Perhaps the most attractive among the new i iklrt models is a triple box planted affair i vlth a plain panel between each plaited one. ' I 'onneollng the plaited panels are bias t:an !s | >f silk or braid, both of which are In self one, for no contrasting nuance Is allowed I >n the correct fall skirt. Wherever color Is i ntroduced It appears on cuffs, collars and < n waistcoats. As for the coats of the i 'uture, the strictly tailored suits will have i oats that reach to the ankles and someinies to the feet. In dressier effects the < utaway dlreotoire. long and whh or with- ( >ut a seam on the hins. Is the accepted t ity'e. It calls for beautiful old brocade I nalstcoats and any amount of decoration n tile way of embroidery or braid. s The Fashionable Blossom. The crimson rambler here in gay Paree is ;ne fldwer of the moment. Parisians hav3 | rune crazy over it and every flower shop | joasts of a spray or two of these bright red oses. There is such a demand for them | hat hostesses decorate their dining tables j * ith a single spray down tiie center of the | loth, and the effect with the silver orna- j nents and fruit is exuusiie. Xo drawing j oom or boudour is without them. They i ower above tail Sevris vases. In the gar- j lens they have the place of honor, climbing ! he strongest trees. I know of several pc'O- J >le who have built a kind of pergola or latice work to show the blossom to ths best j idvantage. A cluster pinned to the bodice I it the waist gives u becoming touch to ; nany a white dress. The decorators, mil- ! Iners, minufacturers and dressmakers have j . lot been behind in fo lowing this passing; yhim. Manufacturers produce showers of he roses and foliage upon soft tinted satns and silks. A well-known authoress has sven had the drawing room in her country louse near Paris solely designed with crimson ramblers upon pale blue moire. She nust be fond of the color, as the idea Is arried out on the panels on the wall, on :he screen, chair coverings and curta'n langings. The milliners were the first to jse these flowers in their artificial state, l'he dressmakers nave them painted on ^repe de chine, mousseline de ?o!e and iberty satin. A painter with u'tra art louveau principles has been ordered to iecorate the hall of a villa near Versailles, n here the flowers will appear distorted in curiously shaped masses upon light rosewood. The last ?o follow suit are the con ceciioners. ana canaieu ramblers" are tlie atest Parisian "sweet." CATHERINE TALBOT. PRINCESS AND EMPIRE. Jalnty Inexpensive Models Follow Tliese Lines. Perhaps few questions In matters sartorial are so difficult to decide as that of providing dainty, inexpensive dinner gowns. Horning frocks and afternoon dresses are iasiiy disposed of, anything that is fresh, jretty and light passing muster, but the lignilied, high-sounding name of dinner ;own seems to demand at least up-to-date tyles and of course conventional lines, and hus Is more of a problem. Vet fashion was never kinder, especially n those inclined to ernnomv than at nt, when day gowns can often be pressed nto service for dinner wear. Still one such ostume Is an actual necessity, the dresses loing dual service, being reserved for simile, informal occasions. In choosing material for them it is well o bear in mind that anything too fragile, xceedingly crushable. or that succumbs luiekly to any dampness in the atmosphere fill not be a wise selection, unless one is irepared with warm irons every time the Iress Is worn. There are quite a number if fabrics that are fairly durable though xceedingly light. Crepe de chine is always ;ood and so is net, whether plain or dotted, ioth being strictly evening googs and thither very expensive. Chiffon cloth wears well and ta adapted Awov tc ATTRACTIVE MOI is the C :o dinner gowns; the same may be said of t :he radla and messaline silks. These are ill in plain colors, but if one wishes there i ure stripes in the daintiest shades to clioose a from, also bordered materials with back- i jrounds in white or a figured surface. s The exquisite gauzes are certainly very ? tempting, but will not be an economical in- I vestment. I have not mentioned voile as t i possible choice, or lingerie, as dresses of >uch materials will doubtless have been al- t ready included in the wardrobe. i Simple models are preferable, though tills t Joes not always imply that they can be t :arrled; out i>y the amateur dressmaker, t :hough dinner frocks for young women i i nay be successfully attempted at home. e The princess and the empire modes. | s iometimes a combination of both, are tiie uost popular, and a pretty gown could be I r made of pale pink crepe de chine in prin- j c ;ess style, fitting the form smoothly with- ' a >ut tucks or shirring, the fl:ire beginning : t ibout the kn lS and falling full on train. V deep flounce of pink Russian net ap>liqued with pink ribbon In a design, sprays j >r flowers, or simply in rows would be a j jretty trimming on tlie lower edge, and the lecolletege could be finished to suggest the j empire by being draped with a scarf of the j let drawn through buckles and arranged j o fall over the back of the ?kirt. The j short puffs would be of the net trimmed , vith quillings of the crepe de chine and a I ow of the quilling or a group of tucks ould head the flounce on the skirt. The shoulder straps could be of pink chiffon ; oses, or. If preferred, velvet, pink. gre??n >r black, caught with buckles through but- | erfly bows. Supposing the princess effect Is de?1reil, i hen the bodice may be trimmed at the t /// attractive >EL IN CLOTH. jay. op with a bertha matching the flounce Luis would not toe too difficult to attemnt *t home, and, of course, white or any colo* will be quite as effective as the pink The joiaered goods would make up well in thl? ityle also, but should be shirred or turk< <i ibout the waist line, the border being slm- 4 Jly a finish to the skirt, not appearing an & lounce. For the tall, slender girl a pretty, unpre:entlous dinner frock could be fashioned 'rom net or point d'esprit, in white or a lelicate color, made with a triple wkitt, hree flounces, each trimmed with ribbon, he waist a baby bodice gathered up !a ound Dutch neck Into a narrow soft foil. dged with a dainty tulle tucker. I lie short ileeves being a series of small ruffles. This would be a useful gown, alike cor ect for dinner or an informal dance, and luite easy of construction. The net robes < ire a wise investment, especially now they ire so greatly reduced, and in choosing from this line It will be better to buy an nexpensive plain net gown (by this I mean lot showing an applique), making quita lure first tlint it is sufficiently full, for heaper grades are usually a little scant. inu inrii rv 111 k ii|? n ??i ?a.? u '? ither trimming and adding as fancy dicates. ' A raid on tlie trimming remnant box will eveal wonderful bargains sometimes, and, is it is by no means necessary that ths rimmingrs shnl' m'feh. tlie selection will >3 quite an easy matter. Money laid out ims vay will bring better suits than by putting it all into a mom I t borate ,frock, but which, of course, will lot allow of any expression of individual oy way of trii^jning, as will the plain ;own. (4 / My f/ if , COIFFUBB. ?