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PARIS FAfHIONf m AFTERNOON EVENING
THERE are so many different S'jJes in every sort of gown this year that it is exceedingly bewildering to choose any one model and sav that it is the only one that should t?? copied. For sotr.e time ft has been evident that Uame Fashion, has in tended that her followers should have a great many models to choose from, in or der tlat each and every woman shall be l>ecom:ngly gowned, and this season, which ordinarily would be called "between sea sons. there are, if possible, even more dif ferent designs than usual. The afternoon and evening gowns that ?re fashionable today are extremely at tractive. and it is marvelous to observe l.nw mil' ti individuality each one presents, and at the same time it would seem as tlnr.igh tn" one dominant idea throughout all was that the lines should be graceful and the effect of the gown be harmonious. With till also is a marked simplicity that }? in I .rious contrast with the elaborate trimmings and designs that And favor on gowns of other k.nd.^ tliat have been made up for wear during the summer and are i.'.w be.:.g fashioned for the early autumn and winu r Perhaps) it is on ac -ount of the Intricate design and over-elaboration of trimmings of the summer gown that there lave been of late so many of these ex tremely simple models brought forward. Apparently women have grown tired of clothes in which there was so much detail, and ar. now going to the opposite extreme and choosing styles which have little or !.o trimming and whose beauty lies entirely In simplicity of outline. * ?. * Thi first cool days of anttinin make all j'lmmer frocks that art leal summer frocks see.n thin and shabby. Of late years so much ? ffort has been spent in having sum mer fro ks made transparently thin and tool that they ar. not appropriate for be twe> i s. asons. They can l>e worn coir. for.a y and suitably in mid-winter, when hot - - ar. i heateil within and when out d ???rs the heavast of fur wraps are worn. Hut in ti.e early autumn fur wraps are not to b thought of, and these gowns are i.ot warm enough In houses that have no h. at at all Consequently the sensible w itiian imarably includes in her wardrobe gowrs that are appropriate and suitable for this tlrst cool weather, and looks far better drt ss d than her less prudent sisters who have accumulated a lot of sunumr f.n -ry. w! . h. while most attractive in It se f !s as has been said, inappropriate for any tin when the thermometer falls to a reasonable degree. Tin re are many varieties of materials t .at are suitable and altractive for these first cool days. It is possible, of course, t > niak< any fabric heavy enough if the l:nlng Is warm, and certainly most taffeta t? Iks are heavy and warm enough as linings to make even chiffon or thin voile seem like a light-w. ight cloth. But to the fastidious mli;.led there is nothing that takes the place c! materials in which there is wool. The light-weight cloths, those exquisite fabrics that are now woven, are especially well suited to autumn, besides which they have the added advantage that they will hang well and drape well In accordance with the ?oft, graceful outlines that fashion at the moment is demanding Most effective, becoming and harmonious Is the gown of ligi.t-weigljt mauve cloth, the skirt of which has no trimming ex cepting, perhaps, a plain or embroidered band Just around the hem. This skirt is tremendously wide and at the same time Is so gored or cut that while it is pleated around the hips the pleats take up little If any room and do not In any way add to the width of the hips. The waist is draped to match the skirt, and while it has the kimono effect of sleeves, the effect is tremendously modified and is far more graceful than the original idea. The only trimming is on the sleeves and where the folds cross In the front of the waist. These are outlined with plain, embroidered bands. At the throat there Is a fitted yoke and collar or chemisette of fine lace, and under the kimono sleeves are lace or chiffon ones. Just a touch of color can be Introduced Into the buckle at the belt or in the knots of ribbon In th* sleeves, but these are by no means necessary toTKe finish or appear ance of the gown. IS su desired, this model of a cloth gown ca,n also be utilied for crepe dechlne of the more expensive quality. The cheaper qualities do not look well when made up plain, and the moment embroidery Is used, or embroidered trimmings, that moment the gown itself is changed from one of har monious simplicity to the elaborate style that is not nearly so smart. This style of gosrn s perfectly possible and extremely attractive made in the soft liberty satins, and also is effective made in velvet of the chiffon or panne variety, both in dark or light colors?not in black, however. In blark velvet It would be heavy and inef fective. Oddly enough. It doesn't look bad in black cloth. In choosing materials to copy any of the models that are exhibited this gutumn the greatest amount of care should he taken, because sometimes a model that looks well in one material would look very bad in another, and the same as to colors. This of necessity means spending considerable time and thought upon the mundane mat ter of dress; but it will be found well sp?nt in tiie results that are obtained, for cer tainly it pays to have a gown satisfactory, and It is attention to these little deta.ls that makes good results. For instance, sometimes a plain design would look well in one model when a figured would look very bad. and vice versa. A material that was used all summer, but is also effective and suitable for the autumn, is pongee. This, although not hav ing any wool in it, seems to be very re markable. in so far as it is cool In hot weather and warm in cool w.-ather?not the extremely thin or fine quality of the natural pongee which is worn on account of its delightful weight and coolness in midsummer, but the heavier quality, like rajah or some of the new-named weaves of the fabric. When this is made with heavy lining it is almost as warm as cloih and often is heavier. For street wear and until late in the season the heavier quality of pongee is very good and can be worn, if lined warmly enough, until very late in the season. It has been fashionable lately to have the skirt and waist to match in pongee, and many extremely attractive g->wns have been turned out. A model that has been chosen for the heavier qualities of pongee is in the princess style, with heavy braiding in the upperN part of the Flowei AUTUMN weddings are almost as numerous as those of the spring and early summer, and although the 1 June w-eddlng will always seem particularly romantic, yet there is something very suit able also about the autumn wedding fol lowing the romance of courtship in the spring and summer, so that the married, pair may settle down cosily in their new home before the winter sets in. * * * All those who are lucky enough to have a house in the country which is large enough for the entertainment of guests usually prefer to have the wedding cere mony take place In the country rather than in town. Of course the choice for house weddings cannot call for two opin ions. for there can be none who will .not admit that the country house, even of mod erate Blre and style, offers much greater opportunity for an effective wedding than the town House, which may be in itself more elegant. The house wedding, there fore, should be held in the country if pos sible. The church wedding, of course, usu ally has a more magnificent setting in town, where the large edifices, fine choirs and handsome fittings offer a handsome back ground for the beauty and solemnity of a bridal party. The country church, however, though not so magnificent, frequently has charms of another sort. If quaint and old, and if the music is fairly good, or if good music can be had from the city, the coun try church wedding may well be preferred to that of the city ahurch. Flowers from the fields and roads and autumn leaves are the principal d<^ra tions for a country wedding. Autumn leaves have grown to be as popular as American beauties for house decoration, and they are particularly attractive when used In large quantities Is very light rooms, bay I ^Jiotroi >jr Tie X4.tCz 71? * Gm 1 waist and sleevas, soutache braid sewed on at one edge being chosen as the most ef fective braid. One of fasliion's fads is that the heavy white pongee is the most to be desired, but it must be conceded that this fad is a gen erally becoming one. and the gowns made of white pongee are most attractive. The skirt of one such gown Is short, with two or three wide folds or tucks and with a shaped pleat down the l'ront. It is a new model for the skirt and rather an intricate one, in spite of its apparent simplicity, but it is already popular and will undoubtedly be copied In cloth this winter. Indeed, it is just as well to realize that all of these extremely simple fashions that make their appearance at this time of the year, that are made up in silk or light-weight cloth, are to b.' regarded as advance styles of what the winter is to bring fortL, and it is qt ite safe to make up winter gowns after them. * * * The smartest of these gowns have long coats?quite liMig in many Instances, in others three-quarter length?to wear with them. Although the color is. of course, associated with midsummer, t^ey will be seen until ususually late in the autumn. rs and Frocks windows, verandas, etc. There are some few flowers which go very well with the "leaves, but they must be chosen with care. Generally speaking, no flowers but chrys anthemums or Queen Marguerites, espe cially the red and white varieties of the latter blossoms, look well actually mingled with autumn leaves. This applies to the garden blossoms, for ail of the field flowers look well with the autumn foliage. Both wUite and purple roadside asters, iron weed, milk Veed, fleld lilies and, above all, golden rod, are magnificent for use in deco ration with the autumn leaves. Lucky the bride also who can have a sufficient quan tity of the wild cardinal flower to make a brilliant spot among the blossoms, for there is no garden or hothouse flower, and nothing else in nature, which affords quite such a transcendent brilliance, rich and vivid beyond all comparison with other red blossoms. Even luckier the bride who has the distinction of gentlajve at her autumn wedding. Blue always brings good luck to the bride, and where Is the blue which is half so blue as that of gentian? It Is a shade divinely selected?In all reverence, be It said?but its rarity makes Its presence almost unknown even at the most favored bride's feast. * * * So much for the blossoms which may readily bemingled in almost any sort of fashion with the autumn foliage; but It is necessary also to provide some sort of smaller decoration for the small tables at which the wedding breakfast Is served. The use of autumn leaves is usually con fined to the decoration of the room itself, fireplaces, mantelpieces. etc., and for the large table, if there be one, in the center. It la difficult to arranfii the leaves success fully for small tables, and the same is true Y CteEPE DE 'RATtVS CjOVN There are many women who like to wear white until it is absolutely essential to put on dark colors In the autumn. Besides these pongees, there Is no end of White serges and fine, liglit whit? cloths being made up oil the lines of these same gowns. There is not bo much braiding to l>e seen on serge, for with few exceptions serge is used in the rather plainer style of gowns, and a serge waist is not very comfortable, serge being better suited to a coat and skirt than it is to a waist and skirt, al though in this wonderful age of the world even serges are woven to be soft and pli able, and very few of them have the harsh, unyielding surface that is generally assi ciated in our minds with this material. Simple gowns for the evening look very effective, too, at this time, and seem ap propriate in some indescribable fashion to the change of season. It must be admit ted, however, that this simplicity is not a simplicity of economy, but rather bears the earmarks of study and often of cost; but then It Is a satisfactory simplicity after all, most effective and, as a rule, becoming. The plain white or colored chiffon dinner gown is at the moment extremely fashion able and very smart. The pleated skirt is for the Fashi of golden rocl and the other large wild flower decorations. Chrysanthemums, of course, and white Queen Marguerites, min gled perhaps with red- ones, are charming, and with these may be used the sweet white clematis vine, which blossoms so abundantly in the autumn. It is a most graceful vine for decorating and loo<s charming with the autumn leaves, whether us^d to drape a table or for the mantel piece and- doorways. A bridal tower of clematis is also most attractive if the wed ding ceremony is to be performtd in the house. * * * Although one would naturally suppose that red flowers would combine well with the frtitumn foliage, not all of them do. Red roses are not at all successful with the fall leaves, nor do red carnations look particularly well. If chrysanthemums are used almost any color will harmonize, for somehow all the chrysanthemum shades go well with the autumn foliage. But In Queen Marguerites the pinks and purples must i?e avoided, as they harmonize with very few things and aro much too crude for', the autumn leaf combination. Very pale lavender Queen Marguerites, It is true, look rather well with brown and yellow foliage, especially if thej are used with a quantity of white blossoms. But there is almost no combination of colors which will not be spoiled by the introduction of vivid pink or purple Queen Marguerites, so uncompro mising is the hue of these blossoms. If roses are to be used for the tables, rich, warm pink roses of. the deep and rather dull shades are very handsome with the bronce oak foliage, and indeed look well with foliage of any hue. The American beauty or any rose verging on the true rose color looks out of place, as does the yellow rose, but the deep pink rose-, or even a pal# o still in favor, and the pleated effects with wide folds and tucks are Just as popular as ever. While the rows of velvet ribbon, both narrow and wide, that trim the lower part of the skirt are perhaps not extremely novel, somehow the way in which they arj combined with the material itself seems very striking: and smart. The skirts of these gowns are not extraordinarily long. A medium length of train is considered smarter than the very long one, and then it must be remembered that chiffon, especially pleated chiffon, has a bad way of growing longer as it is worn. 80 this always has to be looked out for. Mauve, pale pink, pale yellow and a shade of light gray in these gowns are all extremely fashionable and are trimmed with, velvet or satin. Such lace as is used on the waist is very cleverly introduced into folds that, in ftchu or surplice effect, form the greater part of the waist itself. The sleeves are marvels of lace and chiffon combined. They are never longer than elbow length and generally are shorter. They are caught up gracefully at the top of the arm and fall In soft folds. The col orings that are possible in chiffon make it a most popular material, even now, after it has been used for so many years. onable Fall W pink or" white rose of some sort, is attract ive for table decoration where the autumn foliage is used for th? room. * * * The autumn bride, like her sister of many generations^ will be most correctly attired in ivory satin and lace. Very mag nificent wedding gowns are trimmed also with handsome sliver embroideries in bow knotS, garlands and similar designs. Ninon de sole is a favorite fabric at present for the wedding gown. IJberty satin, duchess satin, white net and white gauze are also used. Almost any handsome lace is con sidered sufficiently in style for use on the wedding robe, the quality and beauty ?f the pattern rather than the kind of lace making It suitable for the occasion. Brus sels lace and a brussels veil are. of course, always in most perfect style for wedding robes. Old honiton lace is a boon to any bride. At one fashionable wedding re cently the bridal gown was most effectively trimmed with old Spanish blonde lace. Old flemish lace is also most effectively em ployed to drape the wedding gown, and. not to be behind the other nations, Ireland comes forward with its beautiful Limerick lace as a suggestion for the bridal gown (^scoratlon. Even Valenciennes lace is now used on the bridal frock and used most beautifully. The princess and empire bridal gowns are still very fashionable, although they are not the only styles considered, as was the case some months ago. Separate waists and skirts are now made for the bridal robe, and for some figures they are un doubtedly more attractive. For slender fig ures, however, there surely can be nothing more exquisite than the empire wedding gown. The empire model Is at Its best when carried out In the rich fabrics of a wedding gown, and Its picturesqueness is There are some white lace gowns that should be Included under the head of the simple evening gowns that are the fash ionable gowns of Che moment. These are made of the all-over lace, with the sprigs or branches worked Into It. They are not necessarily expensive, but at ? the same time they do not look well made up in too plain or ineffective a lace. They can be worn over colored linings or plain white. All white is. however, in spite of fashion s decrees, more popular than color, whatever color Is desired being so easily introduced In the girdle of colored ribbon, plain or figured, or In the girdle with a jeweled buckle, and in buttons or buckles to match, with straps of the same color drawn through them. There are charming gowns for older wom en that are made of the figured net lace, and these over white or colored linings are most attractive, for they can be worn either with the high or low waists. Such gowns as these look well trimmed with nar row black velvet ribbon, a succession of ruffles on which are a sucoassion of the narrow bands of the Vejvet being more ef fective than any otlier sort of trimming that is used. For the all-blaok lace gown a lace-like point d'esprit is charming. This, however, does not look so well trimmed with velvet as with the ruffles trimmed with a narrow edging of the black lace, and In such a gown as this there should be no color kind, and yet the effect of it all is not too somber, for the quality of the lace seems to give it a lightness of tone that is very charming and almost invariably be | coming. Toilets for mountain wear made this late in the season give travelers an opportunity to introduce r.ew fall styles into tiheir sum mer or vacation wardrobes. One of the newest garments is a skirt model made plain in a flaring style, witlj straps trim ming the hips. These end by being drawn through buckles of mother of pearl, the straps cut to a point. This form of decora tion is a new feature and is very smart, be coming, however, only to the Hlender figure. The skirt should lie ankle length and fin ished with rows of stitching. The skirt of Skibo tweed, a fabric that wo shall see quite a good deal of through the autumn. It is in the favorite heather mix better in place on such an occasion than on any other. A very magnificent princess wedding gown which has jusf been completed is trimmed with two full draperies of duchess lace going from the shoulders to the bot tom of the skirt In two full bands that come together af the waist line and then separate again, spreading further apart to ward the bottom of the skirt. The panel thus formed down the front is decorated with large embroidered silver bow knots. Tije court train of this costume was of sil ver brocade. An exquisite empire wedding gown was of white striped gauze made over silver tissue and trimmed with silver embroid eries and Valenciennes lace. Another em pire gown was made of white liberty satin draped with tulle. The skirt was trimmed with a deep embroidery of chiffon flowers and silver and lace sprays. This frock had a draped or surplice bodice, held in by a broad white satin sash. There was a sur plice trimming of the silver and chiffon em broidery and a court train of satin lined with cloth of silver and trimmed with quantities of embroidery in silver and Valenciennes. The greatest innovation of years in wed ding gowns is the surplice neck, which is now being used on some fashionable gowns, there being no collar band, and the surplice showing quite a little of the throat. The fashion has been aocepted in England, but it is not yet fully accepted In this country. Both laca and tulle veils are worn and seem to be equally in favor. When there is an old family veil of lace it is usually worn, but if the veil must be bought for the occaalon tulle is generally preferred. It is, in fact, usually more becoming than the richest lace veil. For Outdoor Wear. ? * * ture, colors that wear so well and show lit tle soil. A hand-knitted wweater goes with the skirt and may be white or gray. It closes with large pearl buttons anil Is so knitted as to be very close fitting; about the waist line, preventing any riding up. The lightweight Panama and the com fortable felt hats enjoy about equal favor for mountain wear, u hand being the usual trimming. The striped scarfs, however, are so Jaunty looking that many girls prefer Uiein to the plain stiff band. Either will be correct. The washable chamois or the dog skin gloves are worn, whether climbing, boating or, In fact, taking part In any out door recreation. The staff is, of course, part of the outfit, and strong, substantial shoes or Oxfords are a necessity. Chiffon veils should certainly be included in the list, for if not wanted as a face cov ering they will come in for wear over the hat. tying down at the sides. thus protect ing the iiair trom both wind and dust. The natcy skirt and coat models ready for moun tain wear are smart. .Lightweight suiting enters into their construction, the skirl pleated, the pleats stitched almost to knee, then naring, being the tavorlte model. The coat is boxy looking, quite louse fitting, and cioses douoie breasted with large pearl but tons. The sleeves are coat shaped, and not an atom ot contrasting material Is seen as a relief, the success ot the suit depending entirely upon us cut, tit and finish. Heavier tweeds are made with the plain, flaring start titling the iups smoothly, and til? coat in ihls case is often trimmed wu.ii coJar an<l cuus ot leather. A mixed tweed having collar and cutis of saddle brown is effective, and so is white leather trimming navy cheviot, lirass buttons adorn many of the coats and wraps Intended lor moun tain wear. A long tweed wrap, something between an Inverness and u kimono, seen recently in a siiop was trimmed v.-ith black silk and large brass buttons. The sleeves could be bULtoned, making them almost close titling, or by releasing a button largo sling or kimono sleeves were created. Such a wrap might be very useful in the moun tains; not for tramping exactly, but for use durii.g a rainstorm. The duchess cape of thin broadcloth is another model specially adapted for mountain wear, and would come in for evening afterward; and, inci dentally, this is a style that could be at tempted at home. The same may be said of the cape on Ked Hiding llood lines. A smart combination wouid be brown cloth with banana lining, while dark green Is ef fective made with touches of old pink broad cloth, black taffeta and brass buttons. ? Pongee coals are not much in demand for mountain wear, their mission in these re gions being only Uiat of a dust cloak for driving, and a most satisfactory wrap for the purpose. Though thin, it excludes dust, is light in weight and comparatively cool, all desirable qualities. Linen suits ill natural shades are better for mountain wear than white, as they do not show dust or soil so easily, but neither is quite as good as the tweed suit. A nice mohair is serviceable, but is apt to be warm; that is, as regards the coats. Skirts of the material are excellent for wear, but a mohair coat is often warmer than tweed by reason of its being of closer weave. Tweed is more porous. Petticoats of grass linen are cool and serviceable, and a comfortable skirt Is made close fitting about tilie hips and finished on the bottom with three bias ruffles of the goods. These keep the skirts out well, yet the petticoat is extremely light. Bloomers of china silk are nice, and a couple of pairs should certainly be included In the outfit for the mountains. The Home People. Claudius Olens Most of us might and ought to find In our own household much more than we look for. It is necessary for those who would live happily together that they should try to show their best to one another. They should try to show the best of their minds. All things shouid be in common. Every pleasant experience, whether It be of books or of life, ought to be shared. Existence Is maintained at a much lower level of happiness than it should be, simply because those who are bound by the closest natural ties do not know how Jo make each other happy?grudge the time that should be given to the arranging of the soul.