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Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, November 23, 1907, Image 24

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HE three popular and beautiful
5 actresses who are pictured on
S this page never need look for
JL ward to the time when the.v
will stop reigning in tha hearts
of womankind. They could liold them for
ever with only their perfect clothes as an
attraction, for where could women find
better entertainment than in analyzing
thousand-dollar gowns and liundred-dol
lar hats? And is it not wonderful to be
hold Miss Lillian Rv s ll's r.sw Greuze i
coiffure, the latest arrangement of the1
hair approved by Parisians. w:th Its puffs
that encircle the back of the head inter
woven with a blue ribbon that ties at
one side of the head in a dainty upstand
ing bow? Miss Russell is as famous for
her many hats as she is for her good
looks, and the charming pieca of head
gear she wears in the illustration is a !
French confection of green velvet draped
with an exquisite shaded gTeen plume.
Grace George, another favorite of the
footlights, is wearing a charming product
of Mile. Carlier's art in the guise of a
black clipped beaver adorned with a mag
nifii'ent white willow feather. Quite In a
class by herself is that queen of light
opera. Edna Wallace Hopper, who affects
in her portrait one of the new theater
bonnets trimmed with ribbon and ros>*s.
It is said that when this petite woman ties
her bonnet strings under her chin many
are the hearts of the young men that are
tied within. ^
Ono milliner who dwells with rapture
upon the new headdresses which ingenious
Paris has Invented for theater wear says
that it is in revenge for tha victory which
man achieved in the fight about theater
hats. "There was a long war waged over
the headgear." she says, "and man?for
women seldom object to the size of other
women's hats?won with the help of the
theater managers. Women now have
their revenge for this, thanks to Paris.
No man can make a woman take off an
evening headdress, and the new headdress
bids fair to rival in height the evening |
hat." One must wait and see. Probably
men and theater managers will find a
way to get around It.
Fifty Tips on Her Hat.
Evening and restaurant hats always
represent an important item of the Paris
"tenne's outfit.
A large cloche, which was immensely
long from back to front, was carried out
in ivory poplin and wreathed with a thick
full ruche of undyed ostrich tips in beige
and white. sligTitly curled to give them a
tiuffy appearance and comprising fifty in
all, these being piljd higher on the left 1
side than the right, while a huge pale pink
rose nestled among the fronds in the cen- j
ter of the front and a cachep'igne of cof
fee colored tulle fell over the hair at the ;
Simple and charming as this wonderful
erection might appear to the lay mind, the !
price of it would have made our grand
mothers cxclaim in pious horror, as much
as $100 worth of feathers alone being used
to form tlie wreath.
Just a Few Hata.
The smart hats worn at present are
many In design and material. Those
"molded over," as the phrase goes, with
their fabrics are charming (especially If
great care Is taken not to make them too
heavy?a fate which overtakes the felt
and velvet hat very frequently). There
have been some charming ivory hats of
this d"Scription. notably one of dull moire
in a deep grayish tone of cream, trimmed
with a great cluster of very soft feath
ery black marabou. The lining w:is of
black tulle. A chapeau of olive gr^en peau
de sole is trimmed with olive and black
plumage and wings and lined with ivory,
and a third mod"1 of several lovely shades
of saxo blue and mauve turning to gray is
molded of shot nmuve arid gray taft-tas.
The Small Kat loiter On.
Those who can foresee the future say
that the small hat, but with a more or
less big trimming, will arrive sooner or
later. An elegant model seen recently was
a small tricorne with a mass of plumage?
a fantaisle, as they say in Paris?project
ing from the sides. There is a lot of "out
line" about those little hats with b!g
trimmings, and though they 111. y not In
immediately a vogue they will cet th"ir
innings sooner or later.* The little hat re
fuses to poise witiU success on anything
but a soft, loos> wealth of hair. but. of
course, given thai, its success is second to
none. ,
But fashion is accommodating and sym
pathetic all the time. The higher crowned
hats that arc longer from back to front
than across the head make amends for
skimpy front hair wonderfully well. There
are two kinds of higher crowned hats just
now, one amazone and the other direc
toire, the latter with a brim that is al
most as perpendicular as the crown and
very narrow. Both of these shapes are
generally adorned with ostrich feathers,
but some amazOnes have been very suc
cessfully trimmed with bunches of quills
fastened in at the aide with a backward
A New Toque.
The newest in smart millinery Is the
broad velvet toque in n variety of shades,
but chiefly in ruby and sapphire?lovely
tints of red and blue?trimmed with a
band of skunk or fox and a black aigret.
Then there is the large velvet hat with
the velvet stretched tightly over the entire
shape and a wonderful aigret in the same
shade. These aigrets cost sometimes $25
or ?."><), so it is easily understood that the
hr.t when complete is a trifle expensive.
In fact, the wearer of it may rely upon
being somewhat exclusive.
A style that is more within the means
of all and which is equally pretty has the
trimming In large choux of taffeta pinked
at the edges. Three of these choux con
stitute a trimming, placed one next the
other in one or mor9 colors, according to
Another fancy in choux is in imitation
of grapes, small silk balls made over
wool, in green, purple, brown, black or
whatever shade you please. Black felt
hats are relieved with three of these
bunches of grapes in purple or green with
excallent effect.
Barnyard Feathers on tKe Hat.
Cocks' feathers are the fashion. They
have taken the place of the costly plume.
What was the use of putting $30 or more
into a plume when there were so rftany
other ways of building up the towering,
spreading hat? The milliners say that
the weather cock of fashion, which only a
short time ago took an alarming twist in
the direction of extravagance where head
gear was concerned, s'ems to have "set
fair" for the woman who is not overbur
dened with money. Instead of plumage of
a rare and expensive kind we are giving
allegiance to the waving plumage of the
autocrat of the farmyard. His feathers,
introduced in every shads or form which
tjie fancy of the milliner can suggest, are
hsing used extensively as a decoration.
Somebody has named this top piece the
chicken feather hat.
The Last Word From the Most Reliable Parisian Ateliers
Special Correspondence of The Star.
PARIS, November f>. 1907.
SOCIETY here at the Ville Luml
niere Is all agog over the unique
partnership existing between Mme.
Anna Gould and her intimate
friend, Mrs. Rutherford Stuyves
int, who have planned a social campaign
along American lines?that of the smart
N*ew York-Newport variety. And it is
said by those who have heard the plans
Jlscussed that they will inspire e.vtn the
blasf old Faubourg set with some inter
est In the game. It is the intention of
:hese wealthy young matrons to give dur
ing the season a series of dinners, balls
irid receptions that will rival in novelty
sr.ii brilliance the salons of the French
leaders. In an4Jcipation of this social war
the magnificent palace of Mme. Gould,
upjn which Count Boni spent so many of
his wife's millions, has oeen in the hands
r>: t.t'i decorators and is even lovelier
now than when Mme. Anna's little powder
Curt of a*t > x-husfcand was the lord and
r.aster of this modern Trianon. The other
partner, Mrs. Stuyvesant. will do the
lienors at her chateau just\>utside Paris
as hostess for the week-end parties of the
ril iu, and one can be assured that novelty
will not be lacking at these gatherings.
Mrs. Stuyvesant. although accounted an
American society woman and a member i
of Mrs. Astor's renowned Six Hundred, |
is a Hollander by birth and before she |
married her present husband was the
Countess Matilde de Waseanaer, widow \
of a Dutch nobleman. This campaign i
would seem to discount the rumor that
Mme. Anne Gould is again going to risk
her luck in the matrimonial market by
buying some more stock in the Castellane
family, represented by her husoand's
cousin, Prince de Sagan.
Kiteflying Debutantes.
Kiteflying just now is one of society's
diversions, and among Parisian debu
tantes it has been taken up with a vim.
As one girl said to me about the sport,
"Kiteflying is splendid exercise for the
figure and gives you such a tine appetite
for breakfait. And a pretty sigVu was
this girl flying her kite out in the Bois in
the early morning hours clad in a chic
blue sweatsr, a navy blue short skirt,
stout shoes with low heels, heavy gray
gloves and a blue and white tam-o'shan
ter on her fluffy, fair head. She certainly
was the embodiment of health, running
about wherever the breezes elected to
send her paper kite. Children *nd their
bonnes were about the grounds playing
the fascinating and favorite game of
diabolo, and the youngsters looked too
cute for anything in their winter coats
patterned after those of the grown-ups.
R<>d is always a favorite color for the
small girl's raiment, and this season it is
more strongly in evident e than usual.
Attractive coats of red broadcloth made
in the long hox style, with an over-the
shoulder deep collar of black caracal !
cloth and big black jet buttons, is the |
i oat worn by the smartest Parisian chil- ,
dren. The hat is either a large black ,
beaver with a slashing big l>ow of moir<
ribbon or it is a .close-fitting tricern<
trimmed with a military pompon. O
course this costume is merely o e fo
everyday wear. The French child is neve
overdressed for any occasion, and evei
the young girls are simply gowned unti
they "come out," and even then they di
not reach the height of all their sartoria
glory until they achieve the prefix ma
dame to their names.
The Patented Gown the Latest.
The patented gown is the very lates
novelty in the fashion world. The grea
fashion artists are growing tired of see
ing their ideas copied by artists who hav<
less art and'originality to dispose of, ant
one of them has taken to patenting hi:
best creations before launching them
There is hardly any doubt that his exam
pie will be followed by his i^ustrious fet
low couturiers. Whether they are patent
ed or not. it is a very difficult matter tc
copy the masterpieces of the Rue de Is
Paix. Each couturier has his own par
ticular knack, his especial chic, his pel
secret, and it is very hard to Imitate hit
work unless his imitator be endowed v.'itl'
similar gifts. The big Parisian dress
makers employ the most talented staff ol
designers, and no expense is foregone in
the way of experiments ar.d materials.
The price of a Rue de 'a Paix gown may
at sight appear exorbitant, but little does
a customer know of the cost which it in
volves. Between the design and the finish
ed model and from the model to the cus
toms s order may lie an outlay repre
senting a small fortune. When every ex
pons ? is taicn into consideration?rent,
designers, fitters, cutters, tailors, worji
girls, manikins, saleswomen, material a. <3
so forth?one is surprised that shopping
in Paris is not much more extravagant
than it is. As a matter of fact, nowhere
does one obtain as good value for one's
money, while it must always be remem
bered that everything in the dress line
treated here at the capital serves as a
model the world over for others to profit
Models Prom the Maison Houff.
M. Rouff, the famous couturier of the
Boulevard Haussmann. has a very pic
turesque model, to be seen by special fa
vor, which he lias named "Sans Soucl."
It is a theater or reception costume of al
mond green crope de chine with broad
bands of velvet woven in the material.
The sleeves of old gold lace are an unu
sual feature and in their wrinkled snug
ness are characteristic of the latest style.
The little fichu, which is loosely knotted
on the front of the bodice, is of velvet,
which also makes the girdle, from wiiich
depend long fringed ends. The creation
is laid over a foundation of pale yellow
taffeta, and the glints of gold to be
caught as the wearer moves about are
fascinating. The illustration does little
Justice to the actual frock, which is one
of the most charming models T have seen
this season. A delightful wrap, composed
especially for this frock, is of green vel
vet falling a little below the waist line.
In the back the drapery takes the form of
a hood, from which hang long tassels.
The edges of the wrap in some mysterious
fashion are hemstitched, and the full
floundps on the gathered velvet muff are
rrr-atotl In the same fashion. Chiffon also
ixautilies this muff, and a big rose in
gold tissue completes this seductive har
mony. v
The same artist has on view a smart
evening confectiofi of black voile nlnon
into which bands of. black satin ribbon,
printed with a pompadour flower pattern,
have been woven. Fringes of jet fall from
the bodice, and a glittering transparency
of jet outlines the decollete neck, and
nothing enhances the beauty of the
wearer more than this jet embroidery. An
apricot liberty satin foundation is just
perceptible beneath the voile. M. Rouff
is responsible for a charming street suit
of blue cloth?that is, the high v.aisted
skirt is of the navy blue clotli. while i..e
simply cut coat of gray cloth is embroid
ered with blue passementerie. Buttons
from which depend small tassels figure
on a crenelated application of blus cloth.
The armholes are embroidered with pas
sementerie, and the sleeves are three
ciuarter length.- Still another distinguish
ed frock to be seen at this atelier is' of
mole-colored voile laid over old blue lib
frty satin. The basque bodice Is em
broidered with narrow taupo ribbon on a
vieux blue ground, the now indispensable
tassel trimming repeating the same
shades. The sk'rt is. as usual, slightly
high at the back, and the sleeves come
only to the elbow.
The Theater Wrap.
So magnificent and distinctive nowa
days is the theater wrap that it occupies
a place apart in the smart woman's mind,
who regards it much as the Frenchwoman
used to regard her theater toque. It Is
the cloak that matters and the coiffure.
The dross itself Is quite a minor consid
eration. Apropos of the shawl-like shape
of the cloak of the hour, many handsome
old shawls with netted fringes long laid
aside as useless might now see th ? light
again and make up well into the fashion
able theater wrap, There are many peo
ple?especially those who have passed
middle age, shall we put it??who prefer a
coat to a cloak for evening wear, the
latter, with its voluminous draperies and
Immense sleeves, making them look too
bunchy. For them there is the loose,
semi-fitting three-quarter length or rather
longer shape, which falls away from th>
figure and reveals a daintily embroidered
vest. The curve of the waist at the back
must be clearly Indicated in these coats
both for day and evening wear. This is
absolutely necessary if the coat is to pass
muster as of this season's date. The hor
rible shapeless sack back is quite de mode
and must not be confounded with the
empire back, a very different story.
In spite of the vogue for enveloping
garments, the corset remains the founda
tion for good dressing. It must be very
supple and woven to imitate knitting.
The texture stretches perpendicularly and
not, of course, horizontaHy. Vv hatever
may be said to the contrary, tight lacing
is not indulged in by the woman of fash
ion. If possible the corset should be cut
to order, but very good ones are to be
found in the shops. Whether the corset
should be high or low depends entirely
on the wearer, and a good corset maker's
advice silould be followed in the matter.
Ab a rule, the best corsets over here are
low in the bust and deep on the hips. If
a corset is not perfectly comfortable it
should not be worn. Comfort will almost
always insure elegance. The laces should
be wide open when the corsets are I it on,
and they should be pulled down all round
and the suspenders fastened to the stock
ings. Finally the laces should bo tied at
the back, as much space as possible being
left above and below the waist. The laces
should always be undone before re
moving the corset or it will not remain in
good shape. A corset should be loose, not
tight fitting, and, however loose it is, if
badly cut and worn with broken or ill
placed whalebones it may be very harm
The fashionable skirt for the three-piece
costume or any dressy gown, in fact, will
touch the ground as much as three Inches
in the front and from five to six inches
in the back. It will hang in long, graceful
lines unbroken by flounces. Its ornamen
tation will all be toward the botlom.
When tilmy materials are used, such as
marquisette and voile, this skirt will
either be gored or it will be gathered and
plaited a trifle at the top, the fullness be
ing correctly distributed at the waist line.
This style of skirt, which lies on the
ground all the way around, when made
up in other than transparent fabrics is
often cut circi.ar.
The waist will be an elaborate combina
tion of lace, exquisite trimmings and the
fabric of the costume ar.d in design will
frequently show the short empire effect
at the back. The coats will often intro
duce a directoire effect showing a short
ened waist line, big pocket flaps, ftanng
cuffs and rather full three-quarter
sleeves. Broadcloth, dyed lace and vel
vets will be combined in these costumes.
They will display much self-trimming.
Many cordlngs of the same fabric as the
gown will be used, as well as ruchlngs
and plaitings when the material is of a
filmy texture.
A high novelty for the three-piece cos
tumes, will be the imported siiks which
show> suiting designs, some woven and
some printed. These are especially at
tractive in tussah silk printed in a serg ?
or striped suiting pattern. The costume
idea is just as pronounced a winter fash
ion for certain occasions as the mannish
tailor-made suit.
The Nosegay Fashion.
That very cfiarming habit of wearing a'
bouquet of- flowers tucked into the cor
sage is again universal among the bes{
dressed women, only as often as not th^
flowers worn are artificial.
A bunch of malmaisons, of roses or of
violas Is modish. The first-named blos
soms wear well, and so real ones are
chosen in preference to made ones: but
roses soon droop and violas cannot al
ways be obtained, so in their case arti
ficial blossoms are preferred.
Hoses for the corsage are sold singly,
with an enormously long stalk, but violas
are best liked in a big bunch, deftly ar
ranged in a most natural looking group.
The jewelers have produced a nosegay
brooch that clasps tha bouquet round the
stalks and secures it to the bodice or
coat. It has a humped bar across it,
through whicli the stalks are slipped.
Ornamented witli diamonds.which sparkle
like dewdrops among the foliage, tne
brooch is a very pretty addition to, tne
Dainty bandy bags In white kid for the
theater and evening wear look lovely
when decorated with graceful trails of
flowers reproduced with tiny shaded rib
bon. closely gathered, to form relief.
Wide belts made of the same delicate ma
terial are sometimes successfully pow
dered with clusters of varlegatea pansies
stamped on the foundation with colored
stencils, partly covered with silk braid
loosely woven, dyed in the exact tints of
the blossoms, and laid flat, with but a
few creases, to allow a pesp at the paint
ed ground, says the Queen. The end tuft
beyond the fastening is alone left free
from the braid veiling.
All kinds of charming head scarfs are
being introduced for evening wear. Mara
bou lias been aplied to pauze In a most
bewitching form, so that the whole head
is enveloped with the soft fluffy wrap,
which is eminently becoming, encircling
the head, and giving fresh beauty to the
face. The coats which fashionable folk
are wearing in the evening are singularly
delightful; the trend of empire modes ia
still apparent, and much to the benefit
of the wearer.

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