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A* / x' " " \ fr*r^ \ "X Its \>V /1 v < *'yi f i M #V # \\ I i9 1 fiT ~T HAT sort of an indoor dress % /\ / shall I buy my daughter, | y who leaves in the early fail for boarding school?" "What kind of material an J what style gown do 1 need to wear at college In the fall? 1 want one that I may use all winter in the house. It must also be a gown that is not difficult to make, for I live out of town, and my dressmaker can undertake no very elaborate costume." Yes, dear madam; certainly, little freshman. Paris has foreseen just your need, and has designed four little dresses that Just fill the bill. They may all be worn over plain guimpes of tucked linen, lawn, net or chiffon. They have no fanciful trimming, and the materials are simple and serviceable. At the same time they may take the place of a dressy fall suit and, In really c<dd weather, they all make admirable dresses for afternoon "spreads" at college or boarding school. There Is a growing feeling among college girls that pretty dresses are desirable, even when company is not expected. Giri3 like to look well and be well gotten together, even when Just among themselves; therefore a pretty house frock Is not only desirable, but necessary. Our Letter PARIS, August 6. IT IS now the demi-saison, that time of year when even the great creators of fashion themselves are somewhat uncertain about the styles which will be worn. It is well enough to say that sheath gowns will be worn, or directoire. empire or prin?t?, but it is uuite another thing to decide which one of the stylts mentioned will appeal to the women who must wear thein. It is. of course, safe to say that all these Ideas will be carried out to an extent?but i\nich will be the predominating note, which will be the favorite of tickie w man, It Is hard to tell. Then, too, climate has something to do with it. The directoire style cannot be worn in coldest winter weather. It would be perfect on the Itl viera, but it will be cold comfort for the more severe weather of Paris. Then. again. the directoire style ;n ili; with short skirt is incorrect, and now that tue French women have adopted the penchant of Americans for the trotteur. it is impossible with certainty to foretell the absolute popularity of a style which does not look well for street wear. For afternoon calls and for those charming little tea parties at.Itumplemeier's and tnc Columbin, nothing could be more attractive than the long sweeping skirt of modified "nn rveilleuse." A F?r t X L THE k The first gown Is of a soft brown cashmere, trimmed with a taffeta in brown and black stripe. If it is preferred not to use the taffeta, be careful not to choose a trimming in too great contrast to the dress. The tucker and sleeves are of hand-tucked net and there is a shallow yoke of Irish lace. A soft and simple little frock Is of deep claret-colored wool voile, worn over a gulmpe of tucked washable chiffon. The sash, which adds so much to the grace of the gown, Is of supple black liberty satin, finished with twe black tassels. A smart model in darkest green crepe de chine is worn over a plain, tucked gulmpe, while the oversleeves are finished with a black silk fringe. A tlr.y black satin band edges the line of the yoke, and the girdle is also of the same material. Such a frock is so useful and pretty, and if a dainty bit of Irish lace insertion is placed below the guimpe line the dress will be still handsomer. A really practical dress for a schoolgirl Is of dark blue serge, with black satin cuffs and revers. The many buttons are covered with either satin or serge, and tho result is becoming, yet so simple that the youngest of the boarders might appropriately wear It. From Paris Of course, this time of year brings out many tentative styles, such as the huge hats of velvet and felt and the very long coats elaborately trimmed with braid and buttons. They may take, and they may not. It depends very much upon who first adopts them. The large revers of the lncroyable will be a very Important factor in the winter costume. No ordinary material will do for them. They will need either embroidered satin or finest far, so she who is looking for an Inexpensive suit had better choose some other style than the true incroyable. For les enfants, frocks of checked velvet are extremely smart. They are being shown by one of the smartest fashion makers on the Place Vendome. They are designed for children from 4 to 8 years old. and bid fair to be popular for the winter season. Party dresses for the small ones are made of net; with them are wofn wide sashes of liberty satin. A suit of drab corduroy was designed for a boy from 3 to 6. The dearest little cloche hats are made for the dearest little girls. They are of taffeta or soft satin, shirred and tucked, with a big chou of a contrasting colored satin as trimming. V" the HO/ girl ^ ^SLJL F The Kevivai of the Lace Shaw TH5: recent craze for scarfs has revived an old style which will bring Joy to the hearts of those women who have carefully preserved the beautiful lace shawls Inherited from their grandmothers. Now they may be brought out and worn with Impunity, for this summer they serve as a wrap not only at night, but at any time of day. In church, for instance. one sees many such shawls draped upon shoulders young and old. But woe to her who has cut up her' heirlooms to make dresses, acting upon the fact that lace shawls have not been worn since the early eighties. Styles are rotary, and In time even the fashion of wearing India shawls MM# -/o#e Cbrdzyo/" 75jre7y/x2'?? LINGERIE hats, at even* season of the year, are pretty and useful, for now that It la imperative to wear a chapeau to the theater the dainty bits of lace and net may be worn by younger girls the year round. Of course, it must not be thought that a lingerie hat is a lingerie hat this year, next year and the year after. This would not be at all true. This year all such hats are in the style of the mushroom or Charlotte Corday; next year *11? ->n v\EDRI J7HO G< ..... _ .- . .... . . ... ... .. ... :! , : V . v , " ; - s " ' !5' j ' ' II ... . ' n "? ' * I '? ashions as | is likely to return. Some of the shawls now worn are of old chantilly lace and others are of Spanish lace. The triangular ones In silk laces never seem 10 nave any particular name, although perhaps they are all on the principle cf the Brussels applique. Any kind, however, may now be pulled ou^ from the family chest and used either as a scarf or wrap. The Reason for Black Hats BLACK hats just at this time?midsummer?are all the rage. It I seems as though my lady, wishing to replenish her store of millinery, chooses black because it may be worn well into the cold weather, thus allowing time to wait until the fall styles are well developed. In this wav she Is sure that she need not recklessly purchase what might later be YMMt Mr hB|^8I if cy'*' ^ the pancake or the exaggerated Gains uut uugn may reign supreme, nut ui? lingerie hat of the moment is extremely pretty and becoming, nor Is it at all a poor investment even late in the season. One of the prettiest of all is that of net with the pleated rufilo around the crown. The bow in front of pink or blue satin ribbon gives It an air of simplicity that is bewitching. Another pretty hat is of dotted swIss with a band round the crown held in place by tiny rosebuds. It is charming. 0 :ssma C DES TC r\vL ^ M n tt oeen rier* discarded by that most fickle ol all ladles?Fashion. A Modern Merveilleuse AHAIN'TY maiden recently appeared dressed In the very epitome of fashion at every point, and her appearance gave an accurate Idea of the prevailing modes. Her suit was of mulberry linen. The coat, cut straight with never a curve to outline the figure beneath, was profusely ^adorned with linen-covered buttons. Her skirt, partially covered by the three-quarter coat, was barely a yard and a half in width round the feet, and it was cut with a habit back. Her stockings were of mulberry shade to match the dress, and her slippers were in a very dark shade of tan?almost bronze? which toned in rS ffLW HH wi W I or^o?VT%5A?^r- f*/*?/-/^ Co< Picture it worn with a dainty flowered organdie. It ia. of course, pre-eminently a summer bat, though the design is always beautiful, whether carried out in silk, lace or satin. Then, there is the hat into which silk has been introduced. The soft tam-o'shanter crown is of Dresden taffeta, that charming material which matches any gown and which is always beautiful. The hat with the stiff brim is called a golf hat, though for no reason that may KLRJ *~^3i ) COLL II Mb I I I ^ ; and The with the rest of the costume. On her head she wore an enormous leghorn hat with a very low crown covered with cretonne, on which was distinguishable a tiny design of mulberry flowers. Enshrouding head and hat was a mulberry-colored veil which tied in the back with ends about one yard long. Certainly such a costume carried out the general idea of straightness and absence of figure?so desmit-U in the prevailing fashion?and even if the lady did have a slight difficulty In walking, owing to the scant skirt, she had at least attained the essence of style. White Wash Xet Tie ACUTE little tie. to take the place of the more elaborate jabot, is made of white wash net and outlined with 'GT/P/f, . be discovered by a layman or woman. It la of linen, plain, while the crown la made of all-over embroidery. Such a hat la particularly fitted for a young girl, a maiden of that delightful age verging upon the last year of school. It Is then that she should be careful not to usurp the flufflness of big sister, yet she cannot be expected to always wear stiff stTaw hats. Lingerie hats really belong only to youth. Women who have lost their soft lines, who do not seem to blend with ) ,EGE \ \ \ \ PBpV'w ; " ^ ^ 1|^^? /-A # ^K * ' :':n^iuxyj o I -6 I Z | O II "? II -nl I 1 re baby ribbon in a shade to match the suit with which it is worn. It Is really extremely effective, and one need* but a very few square Inches of tha net xo make a bow that is plenty large enough for fashion. The same idea might be carried out if the binding of the net were of the material of the suit, for then It would euroiv match. Uut with an ordinary white lir.en suit a pink or blue ribbon binding Is very effective. Kveninff Coats PUKTTY and useful evening coats are always desirable, and one of a light apricot broadcloth combined all the virtues. It was one of those circular broadcloth affairs that been-m fashionable last year, but for nil that, the one seen was none the less dcitable. The braid around the cecic \va>- heavy with cold. 5^ Jijs& > /m Wtjf ^^PPlH # the informal yet becoming style, should not affect them. There are some types of girl, too. who do not look particularly well In any* thing so clinging. The girl who looks best In lingerie hats and lingerie dresses is she with a trim figure, who knows how to put on her clothes- she who is neat, who place? every pin exactly, and who supplies bv her Immaculate, fresh appearance anything that may be lacking la the costume.