Evening star. [volume], August 16, 1908, Page 5, Image 63

About Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972

Image provided by: Library of Congress, Washington, DC

                
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fiT ~T HAT sort of an indoor dress
% /\ / shall I buy my daughter,
| y who leaves in the early
fail for boarding school?"
"What kind of material an J what style
gown do 1 need to wear at college In the
fall? 1 want one that I may use all winter
in the house. It must also be a gown
that is not difficult to make, for I live
out of town, and my dressmaker can
undertake no very elaborate costume."
Yes, dear madam; certainly, little
freshman. Paris has foreseen just your
need, and has designed four little
dresses that Just fill the bill.
They may all be worn over plain
guimpes of tucked linen, lawn, net or
chiffon. They have no fanciful trimming,
and the materials are simple and
serviceable.
At the same time they may take the
place of a dressy fall suit and, In really
c<dd weather, they all make admirable
dresses for afternoon "spreads" at
college or boarding school.
There Is a growing feeling among college
girls that pretty dresses are desirable,
even when company is not expected.
Giri3 like to look well and be well
gotten together, even when Just among
themselves; therefore a pretty house
frock Is not only desirable, but necessary.
Our Letter
PARIS, August 6.
IT IS now the demi-saison, that
time of year when even the great
creators of fashion themselves are
somewhat uncertain about the styles
which will be worn. It is well enough
to say that sheath gowns will be
worn, or directoire. empire or prin?t?,
but it is uuite another thing to
decide which one of the stylts mentioned
will appeal to the women who
must wear thein. It is. of course, safe
to say that all these Ideas will be
carried out to an extent?but i\nich
will be the predominating note,
which will be the favorite of tickie
w man, It Is hard to tell.
Then, too, climate has something to
do with it. The directoire style cannot
be worn in coldest winter
weather. It would be perfect on the
Itl viera, but it will be cold comfort
for the more severe weather of Paris.
Then. again. the directoire style
;n ili; with short skirt is incorrect,
and now that tue French women
have adopted the penchant of Americans
for the trotteur. it is impossible
with certainty to foretell the
absolute popularity of a style which
does not look well for street wear.
For afternoon calls and for those
charming little tea parties at.Itumplemeier's
and tnc Columbin, nothing
could be more attractive than the
long sweeping skirt of modified
"nn rveilleuse."
A F?r
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The first gown Is of a soft brown
cashmere, trimmed with a taffeta in
brown and black stripe. If it is preferred
not to use the taffeta, be careful
not to choose a trimming in too great
contrast to the dress. The tucker and
sleeves are of hand-tucked net and
there is a shallow yoke of Irish lace.
A soft and simple little frock Is of
deep claret-colored wool voile, worn
over a gulmpe of tucked washable chiffon.
The sash, which adds so much to
the grace of the gown, Is of supple
black liberty satin, finished with twe
black tassels.
A smart model in darkest green crepe
de chine is worn over a plain, tucked
gulmpe, while the oversleeves are finished
with a black silk fringe. A
tlr.y black satin band edges the line of
the yoke, and the girdle is also of the
same material. Such a frock is so useful
and pretty, and if a dainty bit of
Irish lace insertion is placed below the
guimpe line the dress will be still
handsomer.
A really practical dress for a schoolgirl
Is of dark blue serge, with black
satin cuffs and revers. The many buttons
are covered with either satin or
serge, and tho result is becoming, yet
so simple that the youngest of the
boarders might appropriately wear It.
From Paris
Of course, this time of year brings
out many tentative styles, such as
the huge hats of velvet and felt and
the very long coats elaborately
trimmed with braid and buttons.
They may take, and they may not.
It depends very much upon who first
adopts them.
The large revers of the lncroyable
will be a very Important factor in
the winter costume. No ordinary material
will do for them. They will
need either embroidered satin or finest
far, so she who is looking for an
Inexpensive suit had better choose
some other style than the true incroyable.
For les enfants, frocks of checked
velvet are extremely smart. They
are being shown by one of the smartest
fashion makers on the Place Vendome.
They are designed for children
from 4 to 8 years old. and bid fair to
be popular for the winter season.
Party dresses for the small ones are
made of net; with them are wofn
wide sashes of liberty satin.
A suit of drab corduroy was designed
for a boy from 3 to 6.
The dearest little cloche hats are
made for the dearest little girls. They
are of taffeta or soft satin, shirred
and tucked, with a big chou of a contrasting
colored satin as trimming.
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The Kevivai of the Lace Shaw
TH5: recent craze for scarfs has
revived an old style which will
bring Joy to the hearts of those women
who have carefully preserved the
beautiful lace shawls Inherited from
their grandmothers. Now they may
be brought out and worn with Impunity,
for this summer they serve
as a wrap not only at night, but at
any time of day. In church, for instance.
one sees many such shawls
draped upon shoulders young and old.
But woe to her who has cut up her'
heirlooms to make dresses, acting
upon the fact that lace shawls have
not been worn since the early
eighties.
Styles are rotary, and In time even
the fashion of wearing India shawls
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LINGERIE hats, at even* season of
the year, are pretty and useful, for
now that It la imperative to wear
a chapeau to the theater the dainty bits
of lace and net may be worn by younger
girls the year round.
Of course, it must not be thought that
a lingerie hat is a lingerie hat this year,
next year and the year after. This
would not be at all true. This year all
such hats are in the style of the mushroom
or Charlotte Corday; next year
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ashions as
| is likely to return. Some of the shawls
now worn are of old chantilly lace
and others are of Spanish lace. The
triangular ones In silk laces never
seem 10 nave any particular name,
although perhaps they are all on the
principle cf the Brussels applique. Any
kind, however, may now be pulled ou^
from the family chest and used either
as a scarf or wrap.
The Reason for Black Hats
BLACK hats just at this time?midsummer?are
all the rage. It
I seems as though my lady, wishing to
replenish her store of millinery,
chooses black because it may be worn
well into the cold weather, thus allowing
time to wait until the fall
styles are well developed. In this
wav she Is sure that she need not
recklessly purchase what might later be
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the pancake or the exaggerated Gains
uut uugn may reign supreme, nut ui?
lingerie hat of the moment is extremely
pretty and becoming, nor Is it at all a
poor investment even late in the season.
One of the prettiest of all is that of
net with the pleated rufilo around the
crown. The bow in front of pink or
blue satin ribbon gives It an air of simplicity
that is bewitching.
Another pretty hat is of dotted swIss
with a band round the crown held in
place by tiny rosebuds. It is charming.
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discarded by that most fickle ol all
ladles?Fashion.
A Modern Merveilleuse
AHAIN'TY maiden recently appeared
dressed In the very epitome of
fashion at every point, and her appearance
gave an accurate Idea of the
prevailing modes.
Her suit was of mulberry linen. The
coat, cut straight with never a curve
to outline the figure beneath, was
profusely ^adorned with linen-covered
buttons. Her skirt, partially covered
by the three-quarter coat, was barely
a yard and a half in width round the
feet, and it was cut with a habit back.
Her stockings were of mulberry
shade to match the dress, and her
slippers were in a very dark shade of
tan?almost bronze? which toned in
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Picture it worn with a dainty flowered
organdie. It ia. of course, pre-eminently
a summer bat, though the design is always
beautiful, whether carried out in
silk, lace or satin.
Then, there is the hat into which silk
has been introduced. The soft tam-o'shanter
crown is of Dresden taffeta,
that charming material which matches
any gown and which is always beautiful.
The hat with the stiff brim is called a
golf hat, though for no reason that may
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with the rest of the costume.
On her head she wore an enormous
leghorn hat with a very low crown
covered with cretonne, on which was
distinguishable a tiny design of mulberry
flowers. Enshrouding head and
hat was a mulberry-colored veil which
tied in the back with ends about one
yard long.
Certainly such a costume carried
out the general idea of straightness
and absence of figure?so desmit-U in
the prevailing fashion?and even if the
lady did have a slight difficulty In
walking, owing to the scant skirt, she
had at least attained the essence of
style.
White Wash Xet Tie
ACUTE little tie. to take the place of
the more elaborate jabot, is made
of white wash net and outlined with
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be discovered by a layman or woman.
It la of linen, plain, while the crown la
made of all-over embroidery.
Such a hat la particularly fitted for a
young girl, a maiden of that delightful
age verging upon the last year of
school. It Is then that she should be
careful not to usurp the flufflness of big
sister, yet she cannot be expected to always
wear stiff stTaw hats.
Lingerie hats really belong only to
youth. Women who have lost their soft
lines, who do not seem to blend with
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baby ribbon in a shade to match the
suit with which it is worn. It Is really
extremely effective, and one need*
but a very few square Inches of tha
net xo make a bow that is plenty
large enough for fashion.
The same idea might be carried out
if the binding of the net were of the
material of the suit, for then It would
euroiv match. Uut with an ordinary
white lir.en suit a pink or blue ribbon
binding Is very effective.
Kveninff Coats
PUKTTY and useful evening coats
are always desirable, and one of
a light apricot broadcloth combined
all the virtues. It was one of those
circular broadcloth affairs that been-m
fashionable last year, but for
nil that, the one seen was none the less
dcitable. The braid around the cecic
\va>- heavy with cold.
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the informal yet becoming style, should
not affect them.
There are some types of girl, too. who
do not look particularly well In any*
thing so clinging.
The girl who looks best In lingerie
hats and lingerie dresses is she with a
trim figure, who knows how to put on
her clothes- she who is neat, who
place? every pin exactly, and who supplies
bv her Immaculate, fresh appearance
anything that may be lacking la
the costume.