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I/? QJGi PHnHHBHHHH AH ^B : :: v' -- * / * S,'c ?: -;>'*:<: -y-:. . ^v .-^j-.v^ ->y ; : .*:% y::>^^j i" j [ 'i"; '"-I I S j? :c-::.. ; ' '. ' ^K x* ' S| Radical Changes in Ta Coats?Close-F ittir Wrist Frills?\ SO radical have been the changes in fashions during the? past few mouths that a gown of last winter's dating differs greatly from those now being shown by the clothes artists of Paris. Tin? craze in regard to the revival of directoire modes which calls for clinging skirts where erstwhile they were flowing, for gores versus pleats and for short waists rather than long, is the only salient feature of the old-new idea. The woman who is garbed in accordance with Dante Fashion's decrees appears to lie about a foot taller than of yore and half her former width. She has neither waist, shoulders nor hips, and the consensus of opinion of masculine critics is that she most resembles a lead pencil. But in point of fact she is like a top-heavy telegraph pole, owing to V4:- --= - r:- 'k r* >' ' V: 'For the Amateur l] * Necdleworker | a t wiz' ?" <-T? t HP w wmmwmww IT is quite possible for an amateur needlewoman to make for herself many delectable little girdles out of the veriest scraps of silk, provided that they are fresh and of fashionable hue. One such girdle designed especially for a slender woman has :* fitted taffeta lining fully five inches deep, upon which is mounted a black satin cover laid in five shallow tucks. This closes at the back under a r<>w of tiny satin ribbon bows, and in front is decorated with black and gold passementerie ornaments and long tassels. Another girdle, of black satin, is a straight band three Inches wide, closing in front beneath .a flat buckle of satir.eoveted buckram, twisted about It ropefashion. and at each end formed into a double inch-wide frill Frequently some little accessory which may be purchased ready made may be Improved by a few deft touches. This is often the rase with si.op collar and cuff coat sets of musiin embroidt ry having VOKl'N Iill.MU'U Win tlim which lie down t?.o lht'lv or look stringy after having !> ? n worn. Thov will Ht nn<take 011 ,i dainty and fresh air it beneath the marhrlne-flnished edges nr>* run frills of very narrow valenciennes lace < t a good quality The same treatment may he giver, to the embroidered muslin pocket handkerchiefs which, transformed into rabats, are w<.rn with hfgn turnover linen collars. -Cto'.lv^*' girls w o are not such pronounced students or embryo blue stockings as to disregard their appearance take the utmost care of their shoes by having separate receptacles for each pair. These are made in the shape of small bags divided into two sections, so that the shoes may not come into contact. They are bound nil around with strong tape and provided with drawing strings of the same fabric, so that they may be hung up. 11 x more damage is done to shoes that are placed helter-skelter on the tloor or in a gf reral shoe box than Is generally supposed. That there may be no time lost it; r.intirtg for a pair of tan shoes those of that Ilk are hop! in a brown Holland bag. white canvas oxfords in eceptaeles of similar material and white ?atin dancing sh.ppers in silk bags of vhatever color is preferred, as they must invariably be lined w.'h dark blue, which keeps the footgear from turning yellow. * nh ( cj2 .ilored Modes?Scanty S lg Sleeves With High-F Sashes and Revers?1W the proportions of a huge hat laden with it plumes and wide-spreading wings. a Skirts Grow Scantier. The sheath skirt, which created such a never-to-be-forgotten sensation at the et Grand Prix last June, is quite unlikely c> to l>e worn to any extent in America any ot more than it is in Paris, where the best- n< dressed women do not go in for extremes. 01 But. while all the split sides of what- gi ever skirts of that type are now being ir made are modestly filled in with fans of cl one material or another, the basic idea 10 is unquestionably to be economical of j, cloth, satin or velvet, as the case may si be. Therefore, the gores are so sharply w sloped that not an inch of extra space is !| allowed to the hips, and scarcely more a from there to the knees, whence the train fi widens so slightly that about the bottom SUIT AND FANCY braids were never more popular than at the present time, when the rage for trimming tailored coat and skirt suits in simulation of direetoire and empire effects shows itself in the models of tit.- foremost designers ot ciotn costumes. Of all braids to be used this season none is more prominently to the fore than is soutache, which lends itself so happily to embroidered effects. It is employed in both black and colors on coats short'-and long, loose and close fitting, but notably on the rather fantastic little models worn with white or neutral-tinted skirts and designed to dress up an otherwise rather simple costume. They are of satin, ottoman silk or fine cloth, and frequently covered all over with the braiding arabesques. In addition to soutache being used to simulate embroidery it-is combined with braids of various weaves and widths, is formed into passementerie ornaments,, military loops and bands and encrustations upon the. satin and silk buttons and cabochons which play so important a role in the development of the fashions of the period. Novelty braids are of every imaginable design Some of them closely follow liie effects seen in antique carvings and _others show openwork in imitation of embroidery patterns. These in navy blue, myrtle green, dark smoke, stor.e and mole grays are used in one and two tore effects on tailored suits of the simpler sort, while the dlreetoire garments arc garnished with beautiful hand-embroidered designs on lilet or brussels net. These latter are often in a variety of beautiful and harmonious colors. Passementerie trimmings are especially good on separate coats of the more elaborate type, and" often are employed in connection with chenille embroideries v, hich, being done by machine, are not so costly as the tyro might imagine. p Fringes are especially in demand, not t alone for the sashes and neck scarfs, p which are smartest when so finished, but t for the bordering of tunic and certain s kinds of evening wraps of the sort having shawl backs and scarcely distinguish- p able sleeves. Many of these fringes are 0 wholly of one tone, others are of black v mingled with tinsel, and a few are all r gilt, but in this event they must be em- v ployed with discretion lest an undesirable garish effect be produced. n Gold and silver trimmings are lo be ex- a kirts and Lengthened 'ointed Cuffs and [any Buttons. rurely measures more tlian two aru half yards. Increasing Length of Coats. Because T)ame Fashion is an i. consistit lady she is putting into her smart it-looking coats much of the materia ' which she is robbing the skirts whicl -company them, for such wraps are no ily exceptionally long, but they an radually lengthening, and in he mos regular manner. It is a foregone eon usion that il' a coat is cut exeeedinglt ng directly at the back it will be elippes juarely across the abbreviated waist iim i front, and if It dips sharply in front i opes from a short bar*. That even oman may be fitted with a eoat to lie king there is another model liavinj >ng and narrow side forms and tabs nd eton-fitted back and double-breastec onts of corresponding length. Because the eton back is a bit too ex ' DRESS TR pPBHWWig o5bata dh& T^uzmnizj^JYl I pnsively used on high-class evening cos nines, owing chietly to the vogue of pail ?tted nets, which arc made up into er ire robes or into plastrons, yokes am leeves. Drop ornaments of jet, gold. silver earl and pun metal are employed chit II: n band trimmings, as the cluster effec rhich made them so popular as a deco at ion for skirts and bodices went out o ogue with the debut of Greek draperies Anything in the realm of trimming note attractive than the autumn lace nd embroideries has not appeared J )hH -V Kb q| ' K : l^fMSnHg^^nV ^H- >1 I t rente for the majority ??!* women, espd- lef cia 11 y of they possess ' the redundant th< curves which fashion decries for life mo- abi nient. some exceptionally clever Parisian thf artist lias designed a coat that gives file d^l same long side lines as does the typical me Incroyable, hut also a set nt back form, which tits the ligurc almost as closely as the skirt over which the garment is" "] worn. It is the sort of coat which ap- no peals 1o any woman who i tends to adopt ". long skirts, as it has all the features of ' the extreme fashions of the moment, and wl yet is eminently practical. tht The Sleeves That Are, po What sleeves would be was for months .. a mooted question which the greatest of dressmakers at headquarters in Paris and Vienna refused to answer, probably because they (tared not compromise their reputations. The sleeve of the year has arrived, however, and it is not any too beautiful. Nevertheless, it is smart, and pj; it is the nan which accords best with The an vogue of long-dra'wn-ou't effects. Pri- Y>o marily it is the ronventinna! coat sleeve pa so reduced that at the top it must be set jui plainly or with a minimum amount of fullness into the arm size, and from elbow to wrist be all but tight-fitting. It J extends far over the hand ard in every cii outline is utterly divergent from the overworked "half-short" sleeves of voluminous cut. which for so prolonged a per- ex iod afforded the world an opportunity to it realize how unbeautiful the feminine fore- tci arm can be. w. Cuffs Exceptionally Smart. it. The Louis cuffs which for so long have sa struggled to make themselves appreciat- at cd. but were only taken up to a'limited b' extent in past seasons, have at last come de into their kingetpm. Fashion not only ap- or proves of them, but she puts them where ! they never were heretofore?on the ?0 sleeves of indoor costumes. ?H"he woman Kl who has a small and w U-shaped hand knows the value of the Louis cuff, which, more than any other finish, emphasizes - tapering linger tips and dimpled knuckles. w Sashes Seen on Everything. p,Sashes are said by eminent eouturicres io ^ to be a possible accessory of every gown re fitul (din t flint tlio T>ti rir Ion f <ji1 L mark. So widespread is tlie vogue eer- s'" tain to become that it is safe to assume ^ that long before next rpring- everything m 1 feminine from uie kindergarten school er s gir! to the, great grandmother will have ro t collected a goodly supply of fringed to lengths of satin, liberty or Ottoman silk, tli r The correct girdle, of course, is designed et ? solely for one type of costume and at- w . tached to it. and it may be remarked in sli 1 passing that art is necessary to drape it properly so that the ends shall fail in - careless, graceful folds from the front or IMMINGS FOR .- -am . . //M .. .WA rorii'rl ?&; p^iii c - many a moon. For the white net blouses bi - the novelty edge galloons are wonderfully of i- effective trimmings. A most attractive si; 1 trimming in round mesh has a venise at band and an Irish design tliat is repeated in every fashionable color, the bet- w y* tor to fuf-ther the development of the r,f t bolster blouses of the genuine directoire e: - gowns, which demand bodices in the same in f tone as the skirt, although the deep tu :. guimpes and the sleeves may be of fllnii- lit s est white net. Where a designer elects In s to depart from this one-tone idea, how- gi ,n ever, there is an excellent opportunity to w ..I' . ; : . > ? . : . ? ' ' : :: ; ? ;; - -. , .. r:c^: 'ti 7 r: "f : | ^*2(2.22T> CoaZ&GrejL &ezvt2&rd t side of tlie raised waist Ii. c. To mike i fashionable picture complete, it is ove all else necessary to know whether ? special garment to be thus decorated Hands a girdle encircling the waist or rely attached streamers. Revers as Trimmings. ."he value of revers as a trimming is t to be overestimated. And in adopt; them it is necessary to decide in lat form they are most becoming to } individual figure. for one of their ief claims to consideration is that the sition of their points may he varied. If is necessary or desirable?and here ?re is a distinction without a difference o add width across the bust and shoulrs and slenderness toward the raised listlirie, then the points should slope wnward. If. on the contrary, the oulders are wide and the bust a bit too jh. the points of the revers may form almost straight line across the lower rtion of the waist and their narrowest rt merges into tlie shoulder seam at its action with the collar. High Collars Reign Supreme. Anything better suited to the American mate, save in certain southern sections, an the high collar which is being so tensively used on French tailored suits would Vie difficult to imagine. It pro ts the throat not only at the back, terc draughts are most apt to attack but comes so high at the sides as to ve the ear tips rrum irost uilcs, <tiiu front, while.slightly depressed. Is liketo be the salvation of many a set of licate vocal chords. Verily, the inoyable collar, should gain the approval those physicians who for long years st have warred against the open-necked at and the chest veiled with lingerie limpe. Cloth Trimmings Revived. When King Solomon declared that there js no new thing under the sun he was obably thinking about feminine fushns. and in these few are so periodically vived as that of cloth trimmings upon Ik or satin garments. The revival this asou is undoubtedly due to the vogue the tunic, which, when developed of fabric that has not a woven-in border ust obviously have an edging of hand nbroidery, fancy braid or cloth. These ws of cloth bands not only arc used define draperies, hut they emphasize io shape of cuffs, collars and hip pooks. and form th% battlement effects hich are now so marked a feature of ;lrt and coat trimmings. * One-Tone Contributions. There is no gainsaying that the smartFALL AND \jrzied &zzcZJ?272Cjr z*e&J2-& ttemeiLCenes ing out iridescent shadings by the use the Tosca net bands, which show degas worked in combinations of green id blue silk. Blacky lace bandings of various widths ill be used extensively on the satin and t evening gowns, which are destined to ijoy so great a vogue during the comg winter. They will alike border the inie drnpings. define the empire waist les, trim the bodices and sleeves and ? used entre deux with net to form limpes and high collars. Pome of them ill be soutache or silk encrusted and AMIK I ' I V--* '^MfuSHHH^U^^B^BflK^^v'ivl I >- >:.^<i>% H SL^L ^ ^ I jf ?-^NIi^K? 4 B v-:: : vX:-:>V >"$w?s?? H ' S. ys.< 'Z.^.y dtf' l Mm jjg? ' ? $jg^ I B.jS^Ei ^y "$* - : v itS^^mS I P^j^E : Jl^vw? : wy ^R S>r?| Zozgez* ?22Z&s4U?CZ222Z2 est nf the imported costumes of the tailored type are in one-tone combinations oi two materials. It" broadcloth or serge is employed for both skirt and coat. Wie.ir trimmings are certain to be of either satin or Ottoman silk. When satin is the chief fabric, broadcloth is used as a garnishing, and with the ultra fashionable Ottoman and rep silks are combined various attractive varieties of smoothly finished cloth, including silk cashmere and sati-stripcd voile. Cloth and satin are applied to velvet, which in the chiffon weaves will be largely employed. because of its clinging qualities, for the upbuilding of sheath skirts and long coats. Cabochons and Buckles. When it is remembered that the directoire period was one of great extravagance in jewels as well as in dress, it is not surprising that buttons, cabochons and buckles of an elaborate sort should plav an important role in present day costumes. W^tere quantities of small buttons are necessary to emphasise a line on coat or skirt, they are usually of the crocheted type and not o. bri.liant hue. Buckles, however, advertise their presence blatantly becausfe of their size and gold bullion texture, tfhlle cabochons are massive, affairs of gold and silver, carrying Etruscan designs, Roman intaglic and imitations of jewels of great price The fabric-made cabochon is really a work of needle art, so intricate are it? twistings of chenille, its embroideries ant its- raised effects. Nevertheless, quanti ties of them arc put on the new tailor made costumes, and there is no denying that their presence adds irrrtneasurably ti the genera! effect. One-Piece Gowns. One-piece street gowns are reputed bj those women who wear them to represent the ideal of sartorial comfort, as wher the arms have been thrust into the long small sleeves, the fronts hooked below the chemisette and the sash girdle adjusted, the toilet is practically com pleted. These 'costumes, like those oi more elaborate design, arc in one torn when not in two shades so closely alliei that the difference between them is scarcely discernible. In addition to th< heavy broadcloths, of which they arc often made, the widely ribbed serges o) English weave are used, as well as th< thick cheviots and worsteds. They an ideal costumes for early autumn wear or the street and later may be worn ovei liip-lengtli sweaters or beneath fur coats Exit the Separate Waist. The comfort of the one-piece frock ant the ease with which it is adjusted, ii WINTER. others will be brightened with jet paillettes. Sheer white lingerie blouses will .hold their own throughout the winter. Their trimmings will he chiefly of muslin embroidery bandings and all-overs in bold designs, as these have been found to stand laundering <iuite as well as finer patterns and are rather more effective Frequently elaborate colored embroideries in blue, green, brown and crushed fruit tints are seen on these thin blouses. While the magpie bandings are rather startling in thin fabrics, they are none the less extremely smart, and for the woman who can carry off such a blouse one of white batiste trimmed with heavy bold designs in black will stamp her as being thoroughly posted on the subject of fashion. Preserved Peaches. Select large and rather firm peaches, either the yellow Orawfords or white peaches, as preferred. Peel with a silver knife or remove tIre skins as you would those of tomatoes, by putting them, a few at a time, in a wire basket and dipping them into a kettle of hollint. water, when the skins will rut* off Weigh them and allow three-quarters oi a pound of sugar to a pound of fruit. The peaches may be left whole if not too large to go in the can: otherwise cu^ in halve.and add a few peach pits to each can for flavor. Make a sirup of sugar and just a* little water as possible to dissolve it?a pint of cold water to three pounds />f sugar. When it boils skim clear, then add the peaches, a few at a time, and cook u truncnuront Pi Lr t )inm in 11 I I L I 1 liail.Tj.?*?vii?. m. .. V..V, ?m jars. Let the sirup boil half an houi after the peaches are nut. then pour it over them ami seal the jars. lemon-Ginger Beer. An excellent home-made drink is lenionginger beer, and it is cooling and refreshing. We give the recipe here: Over half a dozen sliced lemons pour two gallons of cold water. Then add an ounce of ginger root and a pound and a half of gpanulated sugar Let all boll half a minute, then add a tablespoonful of cream of tartar. Strain and set in a co->l place. When nearly cold add a yeast cake which has been dissolved in a little lukewarm water. Stir thoroughly; then set In a cold place over night, in the morning bottle, lay bottles on their sides in the cellar. When wanted the lemonginger will be ready for use. If it is impossible to always procure the ginger root a small bottle of Jamaica ginger maj be substituted 1 I jh m Mm Mm . .. < >. . ;< -x >; . :: ;.<> .; <:> >..v .. . - 1H ^MF'&J^^ft' ^V xj;::^ :S# ^P/T^ecZcj-T^e GU2(?J?c2C%$: JyrCJjeJXfiZ not put together, will go far toward driving away the separate blouse which for* so many years has aided the woman of limited income to keep almost ubreast. with fashion's procession. Time was when one well tailored costume and a half dozen dainty shirt waists and blouse* were sufficient for the average woman's winter wardrobe, and if she had sufficient money to satisfy the tailor, she could always contrive the accessory waists. Now the so-called three-piece costume is really a coat and a princesse or one-piece gown, the latter built upon a blouse of net or chiffon, which soon becomes rumpled and soiled, and which there is no means of saving by toe substitution of something simpler even when the costume is only to no worn on tno sircet. i lie prooiem ot economy in this respo. t is nno that will take tin? united pray ma'ter of many clever women to solve. Separate Tailored Coats. In addition to the tailored costume, the woman of limited income has to worry over a separate coat, for no longer will the ordinary utility garment answer for any ami every daylight anil evening occasion. The tailored separate coat is designed chiefly to accompany the satin or voile afternoon costume which milacl wears to a luncheon or a bridge, and therefore it must not be of too elaborate a character to be worn In a puLlic conveyance. At the same time it must bo loose and extend a trifle below the knees. Above all. its sleeves must be capacious, for the blouse or bodice top of the semidressy costume Is certain to be of crushable material. The empire coat Is most readily slipped Into, and when not of Ottoman, taffeta or satin, should be of a tine broadcloth trimmed preferably in self-tone soutache, passementerie of chenille. The greatest attention should be devoted to the neck, which shbuld be provided with a high band or have an attached ruche. This will protect the throat quite as well as a fur piece?an accessory which is prone to leave trace of Its prea! ence upon the neck finish of the gown. Serge Frocks for Autumn. Some of the cloth frocks imported from Paris for the benefit of the women who are to pass the autumn at fashionable American resorts are marvels of chic simplicity. They are of light-weight, tine twill, smooth-surfaced serge in tobacco hrntvn muni l.lno nlnl. .a M. I Vju? MlUTJ, KU1IICI O P?11K UliU white, made with correctly clinging plafu gored skirts which flare rather more about j the bottom than do those having trains. The attached blouse has shoulder baiula i instead of plaits, and these are outlined > at either Bide with tiny fabric-covered | buttons set into black-etched buttonholes. . There is a wide collar turned back from 7 an embroidered muslin guiinpe and slasli> ed sleeves revealing muslin elbow cuffs, but the feature of the frock Is the pair ol envelope-flapped oblong pockets set on at t the termination of the shoulder straps be^ tween bust and waist line. The same type of autumn outing frock may be de1 veioped in striped, checked or piuin Eng lish mohair relieved by touches of hrignt r color in the form of silk or "satin piping^ . a necktie and perchance a st sh. Traveling- Garb. In lieu of long-skirted gowns and eoata | ill the prevailing directoire type many 5 women are adopting these short-skirted , one-piece frocks for traveling, as they ati? swer^ perfectly as morning garb at week[ end house parties, for tennis, golf or al; most any informal outing In the ab3 senee of a suit wrap the best substitute ' is a rubberized utility coat in black and white plaid, checked worsted or silk. Many of these are made up in one with the garment proper. Others are quite 1 c;.un? Knlrtti' ncilci " ** ** *' cv ciui *> iuu n uioi aiiu L 11J i l. C' [ quarters length. ?r?, vU- yV- AT. ^ :jT .0 . :&; '! 'a- n'-#,;- j "'1 Fashion Notes | ii and Novelties h * ? TO match the simply tailored Eng. lish mohair or serge street suit and incidentally to dress it up there, should be a Queen Elizabetli ruff ol maline. lace or ribbon of precisely the same hue. The material is closely pleated or shirred and there should be at least five rows of it attached to a ribbon band which will fit quite snugly about the throat. The ends are joined by invisible hooks and there is a short looped bow or two long ends attached to the lower edge of the band if preferred, although many of the ruches show no ribbon whatever. ! A new feature of the ribbon ruflTs is a " narrow pleating of tine white net topljtng 1 the ribbon, this having the effect of 4ftL cning the face and also renders thtf dferlc I tint of the- accessory more beeomlngfoa. That there may he no chance o?*.Wtvir.g an inch of additional bulk wais* line or the suggestion of e.,;hX*ali at that point when the sheath-ski^i|jfi^ didectcire gown is worn many wot^gj^/are . making up knickerbockers witb^eiit'set covers that are cut in one with them, these garments taking the place of the 1 combined waist, underskirt and drawers. The upper portion is made on precisely the same lines as are those of lingerie materials, but the fullness below tiie hips. Instead of flar^ig, is gathered iifto a knee band. Such contrivances are of sat n or soft silk, but the most practical material is smooth pongee, which launders as readily as does batiste or longcloth Some of the new sleeveless guimpes to be worn with one-piece bouse frocks are made of white and crekm scrim and embroidered in self and contrasting si k, having first been stamped with Greek or floral designs. The collars, which nre high and finished with embroidered points, are similarly treated, and the accessory is widely bound all around with thick ribbon, the better to hold It In shape. It should be long enough to reach below the bust, as it will otherwise draw up and wrinkle unpleasantly about tha shoulders. Similar guimpes are developed r in all-over muslin embroidery and Uava collars of matching bandings.