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THE BRIDI ATTEN FCTi some inexplicable reason June and October seem to be two favorite months for wedding's. Every girl in her youthful dreams Imagines herself being a bride In either one or the other of these months, while, somehow or other. May?the most attractive month of the year?Is regarded with horror by tho superstitious. The June bride may be dressed in simple white batiste or handkerchief linen. Just so there is embroidery and other handwork lavished upon it. But the October bride must be gowned in something more substantial. S&tln, of course, is the conventional fabric for the conservative wedding gown, and there are many who prefer the traditional marriage garment?made without reference to future usefulness. Others there are, however, who? from necessity or choice?are more practical. For such, crepe de chine is a very good material for tho bridal gown and one that is sure to hang well. Of course, it is far less ex pensive than satin. The fashions this year lend themselves well to the bridal costume. The dress shown today is so arranged that the material falls softly and gracefully around the figure, while the yoke of tucked tulle fills in the neck. This may be removed after the wedding, when the practical bride is in need of a decollete evening gown. The lace which forms the sub-yoke must, of course, be good?that is to say, it must be real lace, no matter what kind. Real valenciennes will do as well as any other. Duchess is also admirable. Brussels applique Is beautiful and soft, while Venetian point Jace is perhaps the ideal kind to use for the purpose. The dress is made with a high belt line, a particularly pretty style when a gown is finished with a long, sweeping and graceful train. The veil is arranged in the new way. .The hairdresser who draped About Hatpins HATPIN heads for a while grew larger and larger, until they resembled the tiny butter plates once universally used. Now they have taken a new turn, and the heads. Instead of growing in width, have grown in length. They greatly resemble the handles of daggers?one might even say carving knives. They extend sometimes quite three inches from the crown of the hat, and are made of all sorts of materials?gold, silver, tortoise shell, amber and ivory. They are not pretty when used to hold in place a plain sailor hat, but when used for the purnose for which they are intended they are extremely practical. They were designed to pin Into place hats heavily trimmed with wreaths of flowers. Such long handles cannot become hidden among the blossoms and it does not disturb the flowers to find the pins. Neither does It disturb the temper of the lady. Every woman knows how hopeless it is to help remove the other woman's hat. Somehow or other the heads of the pins are always buried in the trimming on the hats, but with these new longhandled affairs it will be quite a different question. For the A THE girl who is fond of athletics is certainly a very lucky lady to be born in the present generation, for she has everything for her comfort and enjoyment. Games are Invented, fields are set aside?all for her pleasure! Statistics show that as the American woman grows taller and taller the American man becomes smaller and smaller. Of course, this is a very alarming state of affairs?particularly alarming for posterity; but, as Mark Twain once said, "Why should I bother about posterity? What has posterity done for me?" Notwithstanding alarming statistics, girls continue to follow athletics, and the newest costume for out-of-door sports is the navy jumper. Unconfined at waist, loose at the arms and neck? what more comfortable, free and easy garment could be constructed for the energetic contortions required when playing basketball or tennis? ATTRACTIVE JUMPERS The new jumpers are sold ready made and are of khaki or linen, while cuffs and collar are of blue or red duck or denim. In e\ery way the jumper resembles the regulation sailor suit save that it docs not necessarily have the anchors and eagles and other decorations of the sort upon the left arm. Nothing has ever been found in the mglige line that is more becoming t than the sailor collar. Somehow, it covers up all the unsightly hollows and Jet gives an air of comfort which is s urely necessary for the athletic girl. Young girls?girls under 13? will find the now jumper Invaluable when such an Informal costume is allowable. Instead of a short walking skirt, the young girl may wear the new circular bloomeis. which look exactly like a very short skirt. They have every comfort and every advantage of the much admired divided skirt. Not only games inay be played in this costume, but It is made of warm material, Invaluable for skating and coasting and for the other sports. The juniper will be made of soft flannel, serge or woolen jersey material? the kind that sweaters are made of Then it would serve a double purpose: to protect the wearer from the cold and to give her ample room for energetic motions. ji For t ? * t_?< L AND HER fDANTS It realized that puffs, curls and po:. padours are ornate enough. so t! veil is placed flat over the head wit no extra furbelows and frou-frous. The bride of the Faubourg SaintGermain does not wear orange blossoms. IAttle lees important than the bride s gown are the gowns of the bride's attendants. The little flower girl, for instance, must be dressed in the most charming and dainty of frocks, and the one shown fulfils all requirements. It is of the finest handkerchief linen, trimmed with bands of St. Gall embroidery. Her hat is in mushroom shape of white felt trimmed only with a scarf and bow of pink silk. The dress may or may not be worn over a slip of pink. The stockings should be short and of white silk, while the little shoes are black patent leather. The maid of honor's gown Is of tucked net. trimmed simply with bands of eluny lace, which fall in graceful folds on each side of the figure, ller satin girdle is in softest pink, while her large hat of white felt is trimmed with deep pink plumes. The bridesmaids' gowns may be of silk or crepe de chine in the palest shade of pink. The sleeves and sub-yoke are of all-over valenclennes lace, while the inside yoke is of tucked white chiffon. Their hats are of white felt trimmed with two large white feathers. Of course, the description of the clothes would indicate that the wedding for which they were designed was to be a pink-and-white affitir. There is no reason why the same scheme of white and color should not be carried out In blue, yellow or green. Pink, of course, lends itself beautifully to decoration, and some pink roses are even called bridesmaid roses. For autumn weddings, bridesmaids and maid of honor carry huge bunches of large chrysanthemums, which are so plentiful in the autumn. Should the wedding colors be yellow and white, the attendants would carry yellow chrysanthemums. A Novelty IT is just now we are getting some insight into the novelties of the coming season?into those little accessories or details that will go to make up the winter costume. One of the latest touches on coats, suits and dresses is the slant buttonhole. This foreignlooking affair suggests the slant of a Chinaman's eye, but it really adds very much to a button-trimmed costume. And, indeed, what new dress can one find in the trimming of which buttons do not play a prominent part? Of course, the buttons are not necessarily of a different color or texture from the dress itself; in fact, the newest clothes are trimmed with button moulds covered with material the same shade as the dress. The latter may have some other color as trimming?blue, yellow, pink or green?but the buttons are the color of the dress; so that, while they are decorative, they are not conspicuous. The slanting buttonholes are sometimes mere outlines made with fine braid or satin-covered cord. It does not seem natural to work buttonholes on the bias of the material, but when they are only simulated they may bear any relationship they like to the weave of the goods. ^ thletic Girl i BKBHQBI iw!?^^WgEaBp||gvW8Bpw52?)Bt 'jfwwSc' " *%titBbH* /% //<?vy t/Vi * ?????? he Home dre I \ *> a" ipllpSfe UEW felt outing hats are trimmed 29Hra^|||||gj <i^ in many ways?some with ribbon, some with quills and some with wings?but funniest of all is the white hat with a lingerie frill, hernia ik stitched, round the crown and a cab^ J?^ A?u bBbrKh oage bow of light blue ribbon at one Hh| side. These felt liats are large and *%& ~*Sm lHBm?SW seme have bowler crowns. The brims are wide and very pliable, and altogetlier they seem to be made as nearipjjpj y T^HN| ly like the softest panama as posslble. These hats are mostly in gray ... . ^ ^^^^B or white. It has been said that gray '^War ' ^^ JfflfiB (tiie very dark shade) will replace black. During the coming season '^Kf lady may wear an all-gray hat with '^^7 h.er winter suit, rather than the black | l.at which has been worn for so many I " CarS' 1 \irlTH the advent of the Byron col |^BH|HflB VV iar and the separate stock, of 1 course, Irish lace has taken a place ^BKHMB| which no other lace may hope to attain. At first it was considered very wonderful to have a bit of Irish lace on the collar, but now In certain shops they MhajBSEBBt are showing small butterfly bows of BjnSQH the beautiful lace, backed with the HESsraBKHS finest lawn, trimmed with a tiny Irish BWBWKbHB lace edging?very effective and most becoming. They are a novel and most s3?il?^^B attractive finish to many a costume. ana, sirangesc or an, tney may be purchased for 50 cents apiece. As the lace is real?not imitation?the price is all the more wonderful. What a fas?HHH cinating neck dress may be made of an Irish lace stock finished with a little bow of the same! mm A Handy Frock A VERY effective costume for shopjH| *a ping was seen the other day on the train. It was of brown and white striped voile, made simply and with & girdle of the same. The only trlinming consisted in a band of filet net which edged the wide bretelles of BsgagBaQBijMBH^^HH^BragbnB voile and was heavily embroidered in rope silk floss. With this was worn a plain brown chip hat with a soft mrucm brown ribbon bow slightly to one side. SSMA1 -=v4 FABRICS ] WHEX replenishing- the wardrobe at this time of year, it is well to select materials that will not be too thin to wear a3 autumn days approach. Usually the linens?the coat and skirt suit and the jumper dress?are still lit to wear, while the frocks that seem to suffer* most ir. summer time are the sheer lawns and dimities that are used for afternoon festivities and Sunday-goto-meeting occasions. One's wardrobe usually contains three or four of these gowns, and they are the most charming and dainty things imaginable, but toward the first of September there grows a need for something fresh, something appropriate for afternoons and even ings that seems to breathe of autumn. In selecting such a gown choose a material that Is soft, yet not so pliable that It is almost impossible for the home dressmaker to manage. A good material for such a gown is foulard, or one might use crepe foulard or voile. Of course, the very newest dresses are of satia, but, while this may not be expensive?for liberty satin is procurable for 75 cents the yard?the material is so narrow that 15 requires a great deal to make even the simplest dress. Voiles, on the other hand, are quite possible, and we have eollenne and many materials which are called by various names, each Interesting in its own way. We are all familiar with eollenne. It is a material of silk with a cord effect running across the breadth of the goods. Its prices range from ft to $2 the yard and it measures 46 inches in width. Besides the plain eolienne there are variations of the same. Some are woven with a silk diagonal, while others have a broken line. All of the eollennes are soft and pliable and make up heiuitiful'v in <ER_J 3^11^8? SJ J k fvj # i ^gL \ M f Br i f\ iH^rT ^ I -^f 1&&C* ?^^- - /^ FOR EARLY the present mode. The eolienne with fancy designs costs $2 the yard. Of voiles there are three varieties: silk, wool apd cotton. Cotton voile is appropriate only for summer wear, but wool voile is the material that is always worth buying, for it wears perfectly and always looks well. It comes plain and with a shadowed check, and usually costs from $1 to 51.50 the yard. Plain wool voile may be purchased for as little as 75 cents the yaud, and it measures front 40 to 46 inches. Voiles must be made up over silk, and usually taffeta is best for the purpose. Silk voiles are thin and soft and smooth to the touch. They may bo found in two or three qualities, ranging from |1 to 53 per yard. There is a chiffon voile which is very line and is almost as thin as chiffon. This sometimes has a design in it and costs but 51 the yard; it is forty-two inches wide. The silk voile with a shadowed check is very beautiful and somewhat more durable than a chiffon voile. This costs |2 per yard. Plain silk voile or Toklo voile Is perfect In texture and finish, and is fit to use for the finest dresses. This may be bought for $1.75 to S3 the yard and comes in every shade of every color. This finishes the voile family, and they are all of them a credit to one another. It is a poor model indeed that cannot be made up to perfection if the material is one of the voiles. After the voiles we come to a material called wool filet, which is very coarse and has a square mesh; it is readily imagined when its other name Is given?"fish-net grenadine." It is forty-four inches wide and eos;s $1 25 th" yard. It is all woo! and maV.es up well over a slip of its own shade. A fall dress of this material would be very attractive THE GREAT t 7-v mr "v tr-?I-* U1N13U 1 1 UiMLU BESIPE which "The Great Army of the Unemployed" and "Tho Great Unwashed" sink into the insignificance of a dollar in the r\cs of a spendthrift. In these days when Old Sol prov?s the guardian angel over tho affairs of our "uncle?," who, in appreciation, hang out three g-.lded semblances of his glory, coats are represented by a little bit of pasteboard, and do not live up to their "mantle of charity" reputation: thus wo see on every sido "The Great Unbuttoned." The fat woman, with a figuro that would make the drayman's fingers itch to paint "Use no hooks." yawns at you from the back. The front elevation of this woman may be unimpeachable; she fusses with veil, pins and collar. until the whole Is a magnificent illustration of the precept. "Patience conquers all obstacles." but the yawning waist makes a mockery of it all. If you were to approach this woman, tap her gently on the back, you know just the series of ejaculations she would utter with tho rapidity of & gatling gun while you struggled with gloved fingers to introduce tiny pearl buttons to too, too small buttonholes. To your "Pardon me. but did you know your waist is open?" she would answer: "Why! is it. really? Thank you very much, if you will be so kind. Tou know, I meant to ask the maid to button It before I started out. but I was In such a hurry I completely forgot it. Is it all right now?" Then she pats her collar as one caresses a good child while reprimanding a wayward one. You can tell the lazy girl. for. though she is so thin that habitation In a water spout would afford spacious luxury, and she could wind herself up In her own arms Ilk? a whirlwind, she shows her dominant characteristic by Just buttoning the top and last button of her waist and depending upon mother to hook her up when she goes downstairs. She forgets it, and mother does not notice It; so "meh lady" trips lightly down the street, and, as she pats her back hair gently, as the potter moulds his clay, you wonder whether It Is worth while to recall her to the realization that she might devote that energy to reconciling the offish edges of her waist. The woman of medium size who lives alone, and is just able to reach all but one or two buttons that simply will not accept the hospitality of their coaxing buttonholes, would confide, should you offer your persuasive powers: "You know, I can reach from over my shoulder and button the top ones, and, by twisting my arm into a bowknot. button the lower ones, but I simply cannot reach the two middle ones, so that. If I do not meet some one In the hall, they Just have to stay open. Thank you." The lazy, gaping placket has been securely conquered from Its indifference by numerous hooks and eyes; all unfriendliness between shirtwaist and skirt has been overcome by numerous n vrn n frnmnn t O C r\ that th A V I <x ten t ajiaugcuivlua, ? "?*?. ?*?v/ now enjoy snug companionship; but the yawning shirtwaist Is there every time one raises his eyes. Hence the question: "What shall we do for the Great Unbuttoned?" 7 _ AUTUMN I'hyrnette Is another material with the appearance of fllet net, though the mesh is very small. It Is quit* the newest of the French manufactures, and Is very desirable for dresses because it is pliable and, at the S%ma time lias sufficient dressing to irivtS It body. A softer material of finer mes^ is marquisette. This is very like plyrnette, with the exception that the latter is all wool, while marquisette Is of siik. Phyrnette costs $1.50 the yard and is forty-six inches wide. Marquisette costs $2 the yard and is the same width. One of the novelties of the season is acactine, which is a soft silk material, and is well adapted to make charming afternoon gowns. It is made somewhat on the same principle as rolienne, except that the cord in the weave runs toward the length rather than toward the breadth. Another new material is chichlnctte? resembling voile. It is all wool, quite transparent a?d has a heavy line running the length of the material. It measures forty-six Inches In wid'h and costs $1.50 the yard. Acactine measures forty-four Inches In width and costs but 75 cents the yard. Modified Models Modifications of the sheath are slowly making their appearance, and there are sonic dresses showing a combination of early Kgypuun, oriental and purely present-day fashions. One such costume was a very tight Jumper frock of soft yellow messallne, with,kimono sleeves and an underblous# of valenclennes. It had also a belt of stitched satin, which was fastened with along, dangling end in front. The frock was otherwise perfectly plain and perfectly tight tttting.