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Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, December 13, 1908, Image 75

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| J^Forthe HOME DRES
AMONG the features of the season's
fashions we find decorations
for the evening coiffure. It
lias been, for the past three
years. entirely unnecessary to wear
ribbons or other ornaments in the hair,
but with the arrival of the current style
came the tU-sire of the Parisienne to
forego her sumptuous jewels and merely
wear the closely draped satin gown,
with a touch of color on her pompadour.
Of course, this carries out closely the
original idea of the classic, for the
Greeks, in the age of Pericles, wore the
draped garments and the oft-sung fillet.
We find the mention of this decoration
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In the Aeneid. and also in the songs of
Homer. And when the classic stylo
was corrupted into directoire and merveiileuse
the decoration for the coiffure
was a!sr> adopted and is now again
revived. Why not give some such arrangement
to one's friends as a ChristThe
PARIS, Dec. 2.
FOR Mademoiselle la Debutante there
is not only the enormous hat, but
. the coquettish little toque of fur,
either swan, chinchilla, skunk or
fo*- This Is re-ally charming, and the
fashion is fast growing in favor. As for
ine gowns, their style has not materially
changed. They still make the
dainty wearer appear like the reproduction
of an old portrait, and, when they
are particularly faithful copies, the hat *
is built to suit the age and type. There
is one particular style, called the tanagrienne,
which, nevertheless, seems to
be modeled after the Grecian tunic,
while tho hat which accompanies the
gown is frequently a Itoniney or a L.ouls
So ze. Such an alliance is the antithesis
of logic?but who cares for that? It is
none the less charming and of an original
and seductive st>le.
Hut the fasnion of the season lias one
fault. It ts the drop of bitterness in tho
?up of ambrosia, the one detail which
does not reach perfection. The gowns
of the moment have no practical side!
If you stand quite straight, these narr>
w skirts have grace, but walking 1ungraceful,
prccque maladroit. "It is
necessary that the trains of the season
drag upon 'he ground like the tail of a
serpent. These are gowns for the carjet,
and one may net change the cut to
auit the exigencies of the occasion.
< "ertaineraent. we may preserve a certain
wtdeness at the foot of the skirt,
and we may tolerate a light petticoat
of liberty satin; but when one point3
out the costume d' l'annee it means a
high waist line, tout a fait unie, with a
garniture of buttons and braids,
Then there is the elegant custume with
the long skirt and with a jacket of velvet.
often in a different tune from ihe
re^t of tho gown. Par example, tho
skirt might "bo of chestnut in a soft
atin with a short direetoire jacket of
ruby velvet trimmed with chestnut
i>raia. 1111 an 01 inrsc costumes, jupe
et jaquctto, the blouse has erased to be
white. Jt mu_t harmonize with the general
tone. Moussehne de sole or lace
dyed for the guimpe, an empiecement
of whito full.-. the cuffs of the shade of
the blouse, ycry long and finished with
plr-atings of net, make the gown complex.
Kn fin, now that the autumn has
oassed away it is possible to foretell with
a certain amount of precision the Idea
upon which the modistes will make the
modes for the winter. In Paris there
s a feeling of rivalry between those
who wear the tight-fitting gown "en
princesse" and those who prefer the
liraped and scanty garments "en emtdre."
As there are many elegantes on
jotli sidca It is almost impossible to
predict exactly which style will dominate.
Monsieur Worth has said the
very light gown will not be admitted
Into society. On the other hand. La
Maiton Faquln favors the mervellleuse,
ini says that his clientele have adopt*
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mas gift? It merely means tlie tyin*
of an artistic bow. the arrangement of
a pretty knot, and the gift is ready.
Ribbon of every color and of every
texture is the popular thing just now
in Paris, and some of these are lined,
giving the effect of two colors. It is
From Paris
ed almost without exception the style
which indicates the lines of the silhouette.
But if the very tight gown becomes
too popular there are always the peplums
and the semi-empire and the
Grecian drapery which will help them to
appear at their best.
I.a Duchesse X recently appeared at a
soiree gowned in a silver liberty satin
made with a high waist line and finished
down the back with a long panel embroidered
with gray soutache and silver.
In the front the panel effect, which
reached the end of th?? train, was used,
but it was cut off just below the line
of the hips and finished with a silver
fringe about three-quarters of a yard
long. The sleaves were of tucked chiffon.
very long, extending almost to the
first knuckle of the hand, and the two
panels were joined together by two embroidered
straps over each shoulder,
covered with a gray satin and embroidered
in silver braid.
The time is "epoque romantique," and
we have the most adorable t\pe of evening
gowns for youthful figures. Whether
it is inspiration or an. exact renovation,
it is a very happy choice. It is when
they are white that the gowns are most
Many of these are made over a lining
of a delicate color?green, rose.,
yellow or champagne?and the linings
will dictate the color of the belt
and the ribbon whicn Dinris me tresses,
if the hair is arranged according to th?
present mode.
One of the debutantes of the coming
season will wear at her reception a gown
of soft white moussellne made empire
and hung from the ceinture of white
chiffon arranged round the bust "a la
J^aric 1-ouisc." This falls from the left
shte to the foot of the gown in two long
eryls, finished with a deep white silk
fringe. The decollete outlined by the
c-einturc is filled in with a yoke of baby
Irish, while the sleeves are also of lace,
plain and tight from shoulder to wrist.
The Pierrot Ruff
Al'IKRROT ruff, but having a
huge bow at the side in which
little Pierrot would not liave
known himself, is one of the pretty
little gifts to pass from friend to friend.
Choose marquisette, crisp chiffon, net or
point d'espnt in one of the catawba or
wistaria shades. Ruffs of these exclusive
colors may be found in some of
tlie shops, or the materials may be
bought and carefully doubled and
nuill?<r into cinnp Th? verv full nuiTI
ings are then fastened on to a soft fold
of silk of the same shade, measured to
fit the neck. The bow of satin ribbon
is, again, the identical color, and be
sure the match is rerfeet.
While it is very lovely to say "tie on
with a big soft bow,'* It is far wiser to
caution the giver to have, tho bow tied
permanently, ami to fasten Pierrot's
ruff with a hook and eye.
easily seen that if the shades are well
chosen the effect is very chic and becoming:,
besides being the very newest
thing. In Paris the prices asked for
these ornaments and lined ribbons are
very high; in fact. 35 to 6<> franc3 are
charged for the simplest of the novelties.
A great many golden or gilt ornaments
are sold, such as roses, and these
are placed at a becoming angle in the
The ornament at the left-hand corner
is merely a band of black velvet used
to encircle the pompadour and to hold
in place the golden rose at one side of j
the head. t
The next idea is extremely new, in t
that it is a bit of black velvet lined {
with a bright green liberty satin. Both .
shades contrast well with the coloring
of the hair, and the effect is one of sim- 3
pie magnificence. }
Gold gauze ribbon of about one inch |
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T1IK capuchon of Carlier has
quickly found favor in this country,
and the debutante need have
no fear of being unbecomingly dressed
on lur way to dinner party or ball. a.*ho
human face is prettiest when framed,
and when tho frame is artistic the
wearer appears tit iter best. French
hoods arc combined of tuiies, of chiffons,
of satin and >?t" velvets. They are made
on huge outstanding wire frames that
surround the head like a calash of olden
times. But the reproduction of Carlier's
hoods made in this country are a '
little bit loss airy than those in Paris,
for. while they may be trimmed with *
lace and made of tulle, they are not '
tewn on huge wire frames. They are 1
more like a hood or large, magnificent 1
sunbonnet. 1
Sometimes they are of satin to match 1
the shimmery evening cloak; sometimes '
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?.i- j an: ui uiic ungciie ruines or cnmon
ruffles, topped by a bow or flower, and s
sometimes they are of soft, beautiful 1
swansdown or marabout. New evening
cloaks, too, aro made with hoods of
light materials, and they may be pulled
over the head when the weather is cold
or allowed to hang down the back when
not in use. Hut the hoods ol' today are
so very beautiful that it would seem
almost impossible to And an occasion
f '
n width Is arranged with gold leaves
0 decorate the third coiffure. This is
1 particularly good model for a young
girl, for It is unassuming, yet extremely
Black velvet again Is used in combination
with a little wreath of roses as
i hair decoration, and a band of gold
jauze with a design of silver embroider
when the dainty wearer would not wish
one on her head.
Such an arrangement is the hood of
iwansdown attached to the broad:loth
wrap. It is lined with white ottonan
silk, and the swansdown is arranged
on the edge so that when the
hood is worn it forms a frame for the
face and coiffure and falls in long lines
Jown the front. This is pretty and warm
?nd obviates the necessity of arranging
i lace scarf on the head. If one desires,
he outer edge of the hood might be
finished with a stiff wire so it would
not settle on the hair.
The other rapu^hon is of side-pleated
ruffles of pink chiffon, finished at the
lop with a little bunch of rosebuds. The
back is of plain chiffon made into a very
full rap, so that the frills In the front
are merely trimming. Two long satin
ribbons fasten the capuchon under the
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ed upon it also makes an extremely
smart ornament. It is made to tie in a
tiny bow at the left side and forms a
dainty linisli.
A scarf or band of wide liberty
satin in nattier blue, lined with silver %
gauze, is tied in a knot, leaving ends at
the side. This gives the effect of a modified
bandana, and as both ends hang
chin and hang down almost to the foot
of the skirt.
These caps may be made at home with
very little effort, for they require only
a large half circle of material, gathered
in on the straight side to fit the back of
the neck. Tills leaves the curve to
frame the face. On the foundation thus
formed any number of frills and furbelows
may be added?bows, wreaths of
tiny roses, lace or chiffon ruffles. The
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umy requirement is mat tne cap snan
be large enough to encircle the coiffure
without crushing it. and that the linlsh
round the face shall be soft and becoming.
What an attractive Christmas present
cne of these new und pretty capuchons
would make! They are used for all
evening wear, and when the colors are
r.ot too light, too perishable, thA- may
also bo used for automobiling or sleighing.
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gracefully the coiffure has an entirely
finished look.
A decoration in shades of pink is
shown where the band is of soft rose
liberty, with two pale pink poppies at
each side. It is a charming idea tor a
debutante, and could not fail to be bePUCH?N
Improved Materials
EY1:i:Y day- the quality of dress
materials Improves, until now
the broadcloths are not easily
told from llio satins, and the crepe
do chines resemble velvets. What a
wonderful ruiniirfuiiitv it i? fur the
woman who loves soft, clinging fabrics!
The present slj le of dress is
clinging, but what will the next be?
Now that the texture of materials
has changed, should Dame Fashion
inaugurate a new style, will we lose
all these soft fabrics, or will the
clothes of future years all be designed
to suit the stulTs of the present?
By natural evolution the vogue of
the moment should result in the 1
hooped skirt. Can we have them
made of satins and crepes?
It Is true that history says that all
of the fashions have been used before.
But no age has ever seen such
perfection of quality in dress goods.
It will be interesting to see what the
great creators of fashion will next
revive. There must be many classic
styles as yet unused from which
they may draw inspiration. There are
the garments worn on Olynipia and the
early fashions of the Chinese! Thc>"
might even revise?and, perhaps, in?
crease in number?the garments worn in
darkest Africa!
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coming if jiink were her color.
Very much on the order of a filiet la
the last arrangement. where the
wreaths of gold leaves are fastened at
each side with a single gold rose. It
almost reminds one of the arrangement
of the coiffure of the mythical Circe.
Our Corset
P Told Each Week
Story rn.?wV Wh?
YOU all have heard that there
are to be no hips for the time being:?that
It's positively shocking
to have them at all, ?o 1
may not tell you a long yarn about
hips, because "there ain't no hips"
and to tackle the subject at this particular
juncture Is almost to proclaim
one's self a nature-fakcr. instead of
an authority on corsets.
Never in the history of man?I mean
of woman?has she been so altogether
graceful, so unusual.
In the eyes of her sweetheart an
Ionic column, though lier brother says
she looks like a walking stick. She
.loo. A aU.J#..
'iocs i rt BviuigiiL i me?o. pitnuri
bit of grace surmounted by a hat?
just a "divine fragment."
An<J the way to secure this ne
mid strange effect that is known a*
"th,> hipless line" is to get a 1a:gev.
aist-no-hip corset and pad the waist
line with tulle, sa\s one well up in
oorsetry, while another stiyit let out
your waist line and pull in your hips
and abdomen.
Hips are below par and the Hxlonten
id as if it had never been.
There may be had a side-lacing co
set which reduces tiie hips sand allows
the reducing process to go on forever.
the wearer having only to pull
In the strings a little moro.
There is a new* hip-reducing attachment?a
strap that buttons ever mors
closely as the hip subsides. I really
bfliev? they sink into nothingness,
discouraged at so much opposition.
There Is a peculiar hip corset cut the
usual length in front and then going
#suddenly down over the hips?not pointed
down, but cut iu a square extension
almost to the knees. Besides this, and
for tho same purpose, is the long-skirled
corset, which looks Impossible on
first acquaintance; but wait till you've
been introduced. They are boned only
to the usual boiling length, the extension
being soft and pliable, intended to
routine ttie tlesh that was heretofoie
pressed down below the corset line in a
very unspeakable ridge and allowed to
take care of Itself.
Eliminate your hips, cries the corsetiere.
and she comes obligingly to the
front with one more now device, a separate
article of apparel, reaching from
waist line to the middle of the thigh,
and laced in the front. It may be worn
with a corset or with a bust supporter,
and is designed to contine the hiifs and
1 bring about a gradual reduction.
Hipless! but yet a woman, because t<?
take on the new figure is not to abandon
any Integral part of you. No woman
lops off a section merely to satisfy a
To lie of the prescribed slimnesa. and
to assume the general outline of a season,
means only to get the correct corset
and to don it. as every woman can.
She has a way. a feminine, fascinating
way, of absorbing a fashion, and, may t
say. exuding it with an alacrity that
takes one's breath?with an amazing
American grasp on things new. newer,
We all have if: they all who coma
here get it, whether they know the language
or not. They do the thing American.
See Eianca selling Hannah Kid

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