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AML F^HDNS LATEST i-'-si"' >vJkA Jg > <}i o- <&> jw? Tailored Modes a New Season. RADICAL Changes in Both Coats and Skirts?Fash ion Considers the Woman of Avoirdupois ? The Russian Blouse Comes in With Moy en Age Modes?Inspiration in Masculine Attire of Louis Periods?Pleated Skirts Again ?Swing - Clear Models for Street ? The New Materials and Their Colors?Less Trim ming, But Finer Quality. ? nd types as we have experienced within the past few week?. It Is surprising the numlier of new and ?ltogether novel models which have been designed hy manufacturers of high-class tailored garments. The war between the ?medieval and Ixniis periods which waged po merrily through the summer finally re sulted in a compromise, much to the sat isfaction of all concerned. The medieval or the Merovingian period rul^s in tailored wear, and tinder this head may be classed two and three piece auits, simple one piece dresses, more or less coat-like in their construction, and the natty, nobby ceparate coat which is to play such a prominent part in fashions for the com ing cold weather. Not to the detriment ?>f the tailored suit, be it understood. This is a season of variety, and women will not hesitate to purchase one of these urnart separate coats simply because she possesses a tailored suit. There are oc casions too numerous to mention when a. separate coat seems just the smartest and decidedly the most practical form of dress. But to get ha?-k to the tailorn?i%ie. Fashion has been more than kind this year. She has for on?e considered the woman of avoirdupois. Hot, coats and ?skirts are so cut in fashion that they tend to reduce the too apparent size of the figure and give to it lines which are graceful ami artistic. There Is the new Russian blouse, for instance. This coat, taking its inspiration from the simple up per garment of the Russian peasant, is a Kpletidiri example of a garment with lines. The high eloping about the throat and *he straight full-length fastening at the i EVER" is expres sive of a long pe riod. but we may safely apply it to the condition ex isting in tailored garments this fall. Never in the his tory of street at tire for woman kind has there been su< h a revo lution in styles * * left side lengthen ttie figure as no roll ing collar coat can. This is the type of garment -which a short-waisted woman? there are still some of us left even in these days of perfect corseting:?will find best suited to her particular style. How ever. there is one mistake which she may make, and that is selecting a Russian blouse with a pleated skirt. Though the skirted blouse is an attractive garment and new design, the cut is suited only to the woman of slender figure. A variety of models in this new blouse awaits the woman who contemplates the purchase of a fall suit. There is the simple model fastening at the left side from shoulder to well below the normal waist line?a point indicating the moyeiw age line. The fastening of such coats is made in a variety of braiding. One model shows the edge of the right front cut in square tabs in which the large buttonholes are worked, these buttoning over cut jet buttons the i<ize of a silver quarter. Another fastens nulitary fashion with heavy cords and buttons set diag onally across the double-breasted fronts and graduating in length from eight to four inches. This particular model has s high military collar of velvet with gold braidings. A peculiar bias cut under the arms gives a pointed basque effect which slims down the figure and gives it the best lines. * * * Not infrequently one sees a suggestion of the Ixjuls period In front of the new coats, but it is so cleverly employed that it is often difficult to distinguish from the medieval. Tt is the masculine attire of the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries which has furnished the inspiration and not the pointed waist and pannier effects of the feminine dress of that day. The moven-age idea, which, despite its much-abused vogue of the summer, keeps in the foreground, is a dominant feature of our fall and winter styles. It is worked out in countless original and attractive designs. Sometimes, ana fre quently, this influence is merely Indi cated by a trimming of stitched bi'nds or a shaped piece of material set on the coat and stitched flat. A stitched band three inches in width is threaded through piped slots cut in the coat at the hip lin?, the pointed ends fastening down with buttons in the front, thts giving a surcingle effect. Most of us will hail with Joy the re turn of the pleated skirt, different, it is true, from the kilted models that went out several years ago, but none the less attractive. A few kilted models are seen, but these savor too much of bygone de signs to tie popular. In their place we see the skirt with a deep hip yoke and a lower portion widely pleated or gored and pleated to accomplish a graceful swing when the wearer walks. * * * All controversy on the subject of trained street skirts subsided with the appearance of the first fall models brought out by high-class American makers who have been abroad during tlie summer studying the fashion situa tion. Happier and healthier we certainly will be for a season at least with our short swing-clear walking skirts. Who knows what may be in store for our sex in seasons to come. It Is rumored crino lines?only time can tell. ; ~ -^T \\*< & v?. v vV ' <?;"' * ' jhp%Vu- ?" ~*""i <c" 7V " " c v Sleeve? know no change since summer except in trimming details. In shape and size they are practically the same. More mannish models show the sleeves boxed without fullness. One French coat emanating from the atelier of Madame Oheruit ? incidentally the best dressed woman in Paris?has the sleeves that widen bell fashion at the wrist, where the fullness is caught close to the arm by a two-inch-wide-stitched hand of the ma terial?a greenish gray silk serge. This i oat, cut with straight fronts that round the way from the knees to the top of the skirt hem i-i the back, is one of the i^ouis inspirations. Radical changes have taken place on the fabric roster. Materials that have all the appearance of weight, but are in reality lightness itself, carry the palm this season. Cheviots and serges head the list. Then follows an old friend back in the form of ziheline. this time smooth of surface and so closely sheared as to be almost a broadcloth were it not for its little white hairs. Even the English mohairs have taken unto themselves that look of weight while they retain their lightness and resiliency. The new fall patterns in these weaves are quite the most beautiful that have yet come to us from across the sea. Silk serges arc lining utilized, these finding their way into the more dressy confections destined for luncheons, afternoon teas and the matinee. * * * This is a season of colors?and such beautiful colors. One marvels at the art of the dyer producing such hazy plums. ricJi dusky reds and blues and browns that are half black. The greens, too, are found side by side with the blacks, browns and blues. Then there are the gray greens and the green grays which some might call a dirty tan; and along with these plain beauties are some few dark mixtures; but this is a season of plain colored fabrics for tailored suits. Coat and suit makers abroad are usins self-colored linings exclusively, those ?>f soft satin-like inessaline. However, not nil American manufacturers follow the Frenchman's initiative, for we sec many garments with linings in a tone several , *? Coxf%> _ ?mt, WfrZ&Jp* w shades lighter than the suit material and light gray and white. What we have lost in numbers in hut tons we have gained in quality. These trimmings are unusually nood for the winter, many bein? extremely unique in design. Wooden buttons of a color to match the material are a nuisance. Braids are used rather sparingly, es pecially the wider and heavier kinds. These, like the buttons, are handsome and ?beautiful in design. In color they cpfnpli ment the tone of the suit fabric when not in black. Gardens and Orchards Now Full of Things to Eat Tho following definition of .?> la'ly won the prixi* hs best in a i*outf'8t opened by t li?? I-ondou Gentle woman: "To bo a lady means, rightly, to be a gentle woman who thows by lier every \iortl and action a sweet and gentle dignity, with it gracious charm of manner. A woman whose heart I* i>"<" and true, who Is tender toward all Buffering, who sympathizes Willi those in tronhle and Is e\er ready to give that n "hich costs her some ??ffort and self-denial A lady thinks no work deroa.i torv. and no one t? deemed ;oo low to receive courtesy and kiudness. Slie is ? uri- and good in every detail of lit'-, a ?ru?- friend and :i min istering angel In sorrow and in sickness." ?Tf you want to !?? rtieerfiil, Jen* sul yer mind on it "and do it. I'an'l none of us help what traits we start out in life with. I"it we Kin help what we end up with."?AI.ICK HK?iAN RK'6. Sunday Menu. I1HK IKK.4 ST. (?rapes and IVsr?. Ortnl >lolil with ( renin. Minced Hum with Kkk. rrennird Pnlataes. Illueberry I'liiicukes. Coffee. im\m:h. Melon. Maryland Clilrken with (reiiii tirnvy. I.lnm Henna. ?;reen Corn vrlth tireen Pepper. Cncnmber Salad French OresnlaK, Pench Whip. . Iced Tea. SUPPER OUT OF HOOKS. ( hlcken Stiliid. SaraiuKfl Clilprt. Cream Cheese with (ircen Peppers. Hurnt Suicnr Cnke. Peaches. I.enionnde. 'I he preserving kettle. which nas lad a comparatively easy life during Au gust. is again very 'much in evidence. Gardens and orchards are now full of good things clamoring- to l>o put up for future reference. A little out of the ordinary are these recipes, but well worth the trying. Salted Corn. To preserve corn in salt, select young roasting ears, silk and place In a kettle of boiling water just long enough to set the milk. < "iit from the rob and pack iri an earthen jar with alternate layers of salt, using a pint of salt to every six pints of corn. Weight to keep under the brine which "will form, and cover the jar wiiii muslin. When ready to cook, take out as much as Is needed, cover with cold water and set on the back of the stove to draw out the salt. Change the water once or twice, if necessary. Cook and season like fresh corn. To Can Your Own String Beans. String the beans, cut in two-inch lengths, cover with boiling halted water and cook until nearly tender enough to eat. Have plenty of water boiling, near at hand In the teakettle. Drain the water from the beans, put in sterilized glass jars and pour in fresh boiling water, leav ing just space enough for two tablespoou fuls boiling hot vinegar. Heal and set away in the dark. When reeady to u.se, open the can, turn off the water, rinse and let come to a hoi) in fresh water to which has been added a piece of soda tho size of a pea. Turn ofT this water, scald a?:ain in fresh water, season witli salt, pepper, cream and butter, and fancy without much stretching of the imagina tion that you are eating fresh string beans. Pickled Green Peppers. Take large green sweet peppers, make a small incision at the side of each and remove all the seeds, taking care not to mangle the peppers. Soak for forty-eight hours in brine strong enough to float an egg. changing the water twice during that time. Now prepare a stuffing for the peppers, allowing five tablespoonfuls each chopped red cabbage, onion, nasturtium seeds, grapes and cucumbers, four table spoonfuls Knglish mustard seed, one tea spoonful celery seed, one teaspoonful each grated horse radish, whole peppercorns and mace? one heaping teaspoonful Kround mustard and a half cupful of brown sugar. Moisten to a paste with olive oil and stuff the peppers. Sew up the incision and pack in a stone jar. Pour over all enough scalding vinegar to cover, allowing one cupful brown sugar to each quart of vinegar. This pickle improves with age. New York State Chow Chow. Allow to one-half peek green tomatoes, one-half pe.-k shelled lima bean*, one doz en sweet peppers, one dozen medium-sized onions, one dozen ears of sweet corn, on** quarter pound each yellow mustard, brown mustard and white mustard, onc lialf teaspoonful tumeric, two pounds sugar, and salt and celery seed to taste. Chop beans, tomatoes and onions, mix, cover with vinegar and boil twenty min utes. Seal while hot in air-tight gla<-s jars. This will keep for years. Cucumber Catsup. This recipe conies from British Colum bia: with a fine recommend to back it. Peel and remove the seeds from several large cucumbers. Chop tine. Add about a quarter as much onion, also chopped fine. Sprinkle with salt and set away over night in an earthen dish. In the morning drav* o!t all the liquid that will have formed. Take one quart good vine gar and two teaspoonfuls each black pepper and giiiKer. When boiling hot pour over the chopped cucumber and onion and stir a moment Turn into a porcelain lined kettle and heat, but do not allow the mixture to boil. Put into glass Jars and seal. Dill Pickles. Take cucumbers, small or medium size, and wash clean, rubbing off all black knots. Have in readiness some bunches of dill, bay leaves, grape leaves, salt and fresh cold water. Into a three or Jive gallon earthen jar put a layer of bay leaves, grape leaves and dill, then a layer of the cucumbers. Follow with leaves again, and sprinkle with a little salt these alternate layers of leaves and cucumbers. When the jar is filled, the. top being leaves, dill and salt, till up with cold water, leaving space enough so that after a large plate is inverted oyer the pickle it is under water about an inch. In about a week scum will com mence to rise. This should be skimmed off and the cloth which covers the jar be frequently washed. Spanish Pickle. To one head of* cabbage allow three bunches celery, three red peppers, three green peppers, one-quarter peck onions, one-half peck sreen tomatoes, tlvree large cucumbers and three-fourths ot a pound of salt. Cut the vecetables In pieces and let stand over nletht in salt water. Wash iu cold water, drain, and run through the meat chopper. Boil two quarts vinegar with three pounds brown sugar, one ounce mustard seed, one-half tablespoonful each cinnamon and cloves. Put in chopped pickle and boll half an hour, then add one-quarter ounce tu meric powder, two tablespoonfuls ground mustard an one-quarter cupful flour mixed with water. Add to mixture, boil five minutes, then bottle. This is espec ially nice with cold meats. A Specially Fine Conserve. Cut the rind of live oranges into thin strips, removing all the bitter white pulp which cannot be utilized. Remove also the seeds and cut the pulp in tiny pieces. Now add to the prepared orange one pound and a half seeded raisins and a quart each currant and red raspberry juice, with eight pounds of sugar, and cook ail to gether until the conserve jells. As the season for fresh raspberries and currants is over, the canned fruit can be utilizeii, reducing the amount of sugar proportion ately. Burnt Caramel or Sugar Cake. A new cake, variously known as "burnt sugar" or "burnt caramel." comes out of the west and carries all before it. It re quires no milk and is not extravagant in either butter or eggs, which is a feature worth considering. Put one cupful sugar in.a granite pan and cook, stirring all Uie time, until a rich chocolate color Add one cupful boiling water and cook to a thick sirup. Set aside to cool while mak ing the cake. Beat to a cream a scant half cupful butter and a cupful and a half sugar. Add the yolks of two eggs well beaten, one cupful told water and t wo and a half cupfuls flour sifted three tinie.s over with two teas|>oonfuls baking pow der. Flavor with a half teaspoonful va nilla and three teaspoonfuls of the burnt sugar. Lastly, fold in the whipped whites of two eggs. Bake in layers. For the tilling and icing, put Into the same pan a cupful and a half light brown sugar and a quarter cupful hot water. Boil until it hairs, add the white of one egg beaten stiff and the balance of the burnt caramel. Cook very thick and beat until cool enough to spread. Some Canning Economies. If one lias "bad luck" in putting up jelly and it does not jell, brittle the liquid jell and keep to use for pancakes or pud ding aauces. Any sediment left from jelly or fruit can be put into the home vinegar jug to help that along. From Nebraska, where housewives are thrifty, c'omes this suggestion for maple sirup without any maple. Cover clean red corn cobs with water and let stand several hours. Boil an hour and strain. To each cupful of the liquid thus obtained add one cupful brown sugar and boil fifteen minutes. The rinds of oranges or lemons left over from lemonade or punch may be utilized in a delicious marmalade. Throw into a jar of brine, let stand until you have enough on hand to pay for the trouble, then soak In fresh water until the salty taste disappears. Cover with more fresh water and simmer until tender. Make a sirup In the proportion of five pounds of granulated sugar to a pint of water. Boil until thick and clear, throw In the skins cut in shreds with scissors and cook until as thick as desired. EMMA PADDOCK TELFORD. Description of the Fashion Photos Above No. 1?Coats Extravagantly Long. SOME of the new Paris coats seem al most like topcoats, for they fall to within a hand's breadth of the sk:rt hem. This great length and the straight, hipless cut of the new coats Is sure to produce an effect of great slenderness which will be very pleas ing. Often the front of the coat is lifted a bit?in fhe case of more dressy garments?giving a cutaway effect to the back. This has been done in The suit shown here, the front of tins garment falling to the knee and iiie back sloping almost to the skirt hem. The material of this suit Is lir green diagonal serge, facings of a darker green silk being used for the coat lapels. No. 2?Russian Side Fastening. THE shield front is a feature of new coats much liked by younger women who fancy the jaunty, youthful look of these erossed-over fronts. The coat buttons from shoulder to hip at one side, like a little bovs Russian blouse, and. of course, such a model will prove particularly warm and com fortabie about tlie throat in cold weather. The pleated skirt, set on at the hip. is another new feature intro duced this fall. Matching this trig lit tle suit of dark blue cheviot there is a. moire silk hat with a big puffed velvet crown, a white aigrette raising from a steel buckle at the right side. No. 3?Tailor-Built Suit. ??r?HE Englishwoman, however fash * ions may eonie and go, sticks to her perfectly plain and perfectly cut mannish coat and skirt suit for genera! wear. Frenchwomen also are more and more inclined toward these severely plain and smart costumes, as was ovl denced St L?ongchamps this year, many plain-tailored models being seen where in earlier years dressy costumes ha\? been the rule. This mannish suit of coal-dust serge?the new dark gray color?conforms to the fall mode by the low opening with lon^- slender la pfcls, and by the length of t.ie coat and the slanting hip pocket. The hat is a heaver strip model trimmed in the new fashion with only a fancy crown. No. 4?Amethyst Cloth Suit. SOME of the French shades of violet and plum color are exquisite. A me dium tone of amethyst cloth was used for this suit, which shows the slanting, simu lated button holes made of cord loops which are a new feature this fall. A novel, cross cut over the hip also make* the coat an urtmistakable autumn mode' This cross cut shapes the side breadths into three deep Vs. the center one giving the effect of a huge pocket laid on over ttie hip. There is a collar of violet velvet embroidered with three shades of ame thyst and the velvet toque In the violet color is trimmed with an enormous dull silver buckle and one of the new furry beaver crowns. No. 5?New Loxig-Waisted Coat. THE moyen age mode with its dropped waistline has influenced even out-of?. door garment^, and many of the fall two piece suits show coats with this moyen age waistline dropped to the hip, and pleats falling below. This graceful little princess model is a happy illustration of the new coat style and betrays the care ful cut and smart finish of all these suits. The skirt is in trotteur length and the costume is altogether an ideal one for street wear during the early fall and win ter days. No. 6?Military Coat. ELABORATION of trimming rather than any radical change of line marks the gradual alteration from moyenne to Louts modes. Trimmings were the feature Of the gay Louis period and many new sod Interesting modes of ornamentation are coming in now in Paris. This smart suit of dark brown diagonal cheviot has the shield front fastening, the long, flare fckirt and the slanting hip pocket whtfh are striking new style features. Tine velvet cuffs and collar are matehed by the silk cord loops, which cross the front in true military fashion. i