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THE WINTER AFTERNOON FROCK AND ITS VARIOUS FORMS
Zip 5 E5/CBypTIOH Qovttc 5tzn ~NoZ Jos. ?RlDE3HMD2]jUNCHe.0K FUR Dresses Are Extreme, Though Fashionable? Quaint Velvet Frocks With Real Lace Collars?A Dainty New French Lace ? Laby rinth of Draperies Bewilder the Dressmaker?The Apron Now a Distinguished After noon Frock Feature?Dainty Footwear Apparent Under New Short Dresses. OW one hates to ^ive up pretty sum mer dresses and be gin wearing winter tailored suits and shirt waists," was the remark of a woman not so many s'easons ago. Sow the dainty frock of light - weight ma terial is as much a feature of winter as summer wardrobes, &:;d the woman wno uoes not possess three or four of thexe little frocks is poorly equipped indeed. Every occasion now seems to call lor a complete costume; the reparate blouse, however dressy, is not considered dressy t-nough when the ti-ilored coat is re moved, for anything except the casual restaurant lun_.ieon or for a most in formal "dropping-in ' call on an Intimate friend. Bridge, luncheon parties and mati nees all call for one sort of frock; con ventional at homes and afternoon wed dings for another; tea at a restaurant, club meetings, hor?e and dog shows for siill another type of costume, and if the < oat is ri moved at all it must reveal a trig, correct frock with bodice and rk rt in obviously close relationship. * * * The very latest fad anion; the women who delight in unusual effects is the fur frock. Only the slenderest figure can af tord to risk the dangerous bulk of a cos tume made entirely of fur, and though the fur dresses ar made of the choicest and most carefully stlectjd skins, it can not be said that they are either graceful or becoming. Princess Lines are followed, a yoke and sleevec of some thin material, such as tucked chiffon or net, making the fur dress comparatievly comfortable in doors. Caracul and ponyskins are used ? these fur dresses so ar being developed in only black pelts?and of course there is a handsome knee-length coat to match. Far prettier than the fur dress, and less expensive also, is the afternoon cos'ume of velvet. Five out of six women in the Ik xes at the horce show wore velvet aiternoon dresses, quite aimply made and with broad white lao^ collars and c-ifts lying flat on the dark velvet. Often there was a border of fur aoout the feet of these velvet -owns, tfc- coat worn through the street having cuffs and collar of simi lar fur. Irish lace was the tort most used with these velvet costumes, though collars and cuffs of rare point and Venetian lace ap peared heif and there. The mention of lace calls to mind the very beautiful new French lace which i3 being taken up con amore by tlie couturiers, and which is a combination of valenciennes and cluny lace, one lace setting off the other most effectively. This dainty lacc is used for yokes and for the little undersleeves, which show beneath other sleeves of chif fon or the frock material. * * * In fact, the bodice of today is a laby rinth of overlapping materials and great is the trouble of the inexpert dress maker thereover. A lovely little after noon tea frock of blue cashmere had a d.aped oversklrt, tied about the knees with a black moire t;ilk sash, and the bodice was in five dis iact layers; first tne low-necked lining of soft black satin in which the whalebones were run; over this a high-necked lining of black satin lib erty as thin as a cobweb but untrans parent; over this dull blue net; over the blue net coarse silver lace, net and lace forming the loose elbow sleeves, cut ^ ithout shoulder or arm seams. On top of all a "pinafore bib" arrangement of tne cashmere came up and buttoned to a similar arrangement at the hack, alonj the shoulders. This pretty frock was in tl e soft yet brilliant blue of an ordinary desk blotter, and the black moire silk, which formed the sash and a line all around the pinafore bib sections, was out lined with fine silver cord. Pinafore and apron effects of all sorts are the craze, and most of these pinafores are knotted about the knee or have draped sashes falling in heavy loops at the back below the knee. The washer woman drapery, with a turned-up hem at the bottom, is used in all jorts of ways, tue turned-up portion sometimes being faced with a contrasting fabric. * * * Nothing, however, is smarter for the aiternoon frock than the Russian tunic of chiffon over a fabric of contrasting color. Cheruit introduced these tunics and now all the dressmakers are putting them over little one-piece dresses of light wool material or chec ed mohair, the tunic of black chiffon over black-and white shepherd checkfd inohair being es pecially stunning. From Cheruit herself cumes a tunic frock which appeared a bridge luncheen the other day. The tunic, falling to the knee and drawn closely about the figure above the waist, was of black chiffon and the frock beneath was of dark red serge of substantial weight. All the way down the front, from one shoulder to the opposite hip, the tunic fastened with big black cord ornaments. The effect was stunning, and was en hanced by the big 1 at of black beaver with ostrich tips in the deep Pompeian red color. Another red frock which attracted con siderable attention at a wedding one day last week was ttom by a debutante, and was of a smooth satin cloth in a deep cardinal shade, made most simply with easily fitting .?nes that defined the slim young figure to perfection. Heavy stitch ing and many buttons of the red cloih over wooden molds formed the only trimming, the little yoke and tall stocK no? IIaud moiler bock collar being of finest val lace. The tur ban worn with th's vivid frock was o? silky beaver with a white and bla'-k aigrette caught under a gold ornament. The costume was indescribably dashing, youthful and chic, and with it was car ried an immense muft" of snowy white fojr furs. * , * * Most juf this winter's afternoon dresse* j are quite short and do not hide the dainty footwear worn beneath. The little shoes are entrancingly pretty with their fox'ngs of patent leather and their embroideries and headings. At an important opening of elaborate afternoon costumes early in tne winter every gown was displayed with an accompanying pair of boots, some of colored suede, some of bronze and buckskin with all manner of dainty furb Bhlngs. The formal reception cos tume, however, is not short enough to re veal the footwear, but trails all around several inches on the floor. Such gowns are worn now only when the journej through the streets Is to be made in car riage or limousine, and few women are seen holding up long skirts, as was the case last winter. Different from the more elaborate after noon frocks, but quite as characteristic in their way, are the chic street dresses of heavy serge and cheviot, which are worn with the massive furs without other wi aps. These frocks are usually in the Russian style, with long tunics falling to the knee. Miss Pauline Frederick, In "The Fourth Estate," wears such a frock with handsome sable furs. The costume is of tobacco orown broadcloth with a aeep hem to the knee of brown velvet, and the Russian jacket, which comes just below the hips, is of the velvet. This costume is a startling innovation after the long-coated suits worn two seasons, but its charm cannot be denied and many imitations will doubtless follow soon. Description of the Fashion Photos Above No. 1?Serge Street Frock. THE mammoth proportions of the new furs make it quite practicable to wear a pretty little frock like the one pictured and dispense with the necessity of a heavy coat, especla'ly on moderately mild winter days. The costume illustrated is a Russian blouse frock of navy blue serge of rather fine weave, the braiding being done with black soutache and cord ornaments. Though seemingly separate, the blouse and kilted skirt are one piece and the blouse opens at the throat over a little guimpe of tucked net. The hat Is a mustard color tr??*orne faced with navy blue panne velvet and t.immtd with cabo chons of deep cream lace. No. 2?For Bridesmaid's Luncheon. "T^HIS dainty dress was worn by one of * the season's debutantes at a recent "bridesmaid's luncheon," and is of ro8e pink silk cashmere made In very charming, girlish style. The skirt, fal ing in pleats from the hip, Is short enough to escape the floor and the stole d. apery which hangs at the back like a sash makes tne dress doubly graceful and youthful. This sto e is of the material braided with self color soutache and is held at the waist line by buttons, also o.namenied with the braiding. The hat is a berry colored model of moire s Ik, with shaded tan and rose plumes of clipped ostrich. No. 3?Matron's Matinee Costume. TO the bride are permitted all sorts of elaborate gowns for even informal occasions. A young married woman who is being entertained at luncheons and mati nee box parties m ght wear this gown, which is simply designed for all its dreBsy effect. The bodice, laid in folds and fitted snugly to the figure, is of gray satin lib erty and is held at front, back and over the hips by rich braided emplecements, also in gray. The skirt is of heavier sat n in the same shade, a draped sash with ends fall.ng in iront like an oriental glrd e dividing tne bodice and skirt. No. 4?Matched by Long Coat. NOTHING Is so useful as a smart l!ttle frock matched by a coat. Both frock and coat should be built by a tailor and the material should be a light, satin fin ished broadc oth to produce best results in both garments. This costume includes a coat and frock of reseda green broad cloth. braided in self tone, the frock be ing lightened .by a yoke and undersleeves of cream net; the cloth frock having sleeves to the elbow. With a costume of this sort, built in comfortable walking length, one is equipped for bridge, smart luncheons, teas, matinees or other after noon needs. No. 5?Reception Gown. MORE forma'lty Is required of the gown to be worn at an afternoon wedding or debut than for the little bridge or tea costume. A reception gown of this character has a trailing skirt and is usually of some I ght, soft fabric like satin, crepe de chine or permo stuff, which falls and drapes gracefu'ly. Tiio gown 1 lustrated here la of amethyst col ored satin meteor embroidered In a braid ed pattern with shaded amethyst an<i violet silks. Yoke and undersleeves are of white all-over valenoiennes lace, finch gowns are usual y worn with hats and the model shown is of amethyst felt, faced w th violet and trimmed with white aigrettes. A band of mink fur around the crown matches the furs worn with this costume. No. 6?Maud Muller Frock. CHARMINGLY simple, and girlish ia this pretty little frock, which is much liked by the younger women. These Maud Muller dresses partake a little of the Jaunty Louis XVI sty es, the hip drapery and Watteau pleat at the back being sug gested. The frock shown h?ie Is of corn colored cashmere with gulmpe of yellow chiffon over gold cloth. There is no trim m'ng, the huge black hat which is a Gage picture model, giving the contract which makes the simple costume decided ly chic. FASHIONS AND FADS. White furs are very popular. Brllliantine makes excellent underskirt?. Tapestry handbags are a pleasing nov elty. All the new velvet dresses have fur on them. Tiny pink roses trim young girls' dance frocks. The newest thing in a wrap Is known as the cape coat. Two-toned hosiery is popular. The stripe is the favorite. The dominant note in winter waists is harmony in colorings. Pearl trimming is used a great deal on evening dresses. Every woman welcomes the return of the pleated skirts to favor. Long pike hatpins of etched sterling silver are quite stylish. Golden brown and brick are the favorite colors in new gloves. Cashmere cloth is one 01* the most popular of the new fabrics. Spotted foulard is being used for the linings of motor coats. Eoci-oco ribbon is employed very ex tensively for fancy work. Gay touches are to be seen on the best millinery and costumes. The bronze slippers, whether beaded or plain, are much in vogue and will br worn even more than last season. The plain tailored waist is made of flannel, rough silk, taffeta, cashmere and similiar light-weight wool fabrics. Suggestions for Preparation and Service of Christmas Dinner. The Christmas spirit reaches and touches ?ve?i the most world worn hearts, and tinder its g?-ntle influence they grow tenderer to loved oi>s and warmer to nil mankind. Christmas with Its gift giving, its rekindling of old friendships. Its forgetting and forgiving of old fetids. in a most fitting beginning of the Inst week of the vear, for It is a Uvlnir rcalt^atlm of the promts ? ?hanted by the uplk choir to the awe str n-k shepherds on Bethlehem's plain on the lir-t Christina* ere-?"On earth peare, good will to ward men.'? G. II. r (>t service if this custom Is not a. nien ?< e to t lie forest preservation. The an svser \\ iitoh comes from I'nited States I'orester <Jifford Pinchot Is reassuring, "it is <>uite true," he says, "that there has bt-eu serious damage to forest growth in the cutting of Chrlstims trees in vari ous seel ions of the country, particularly i-i the Adirondack^ and parts of New England; but in these very sections the cutting of young evergreens for use at Christmas is infinitesimal when compared with the loss of forest r> sources througii tires and careless methods of lumbering. The proper remedy is not to stop using trees, but to adopt wiser methods of use. There is no more reason for an outcry against using land to grow Christmas trees, than to grow flowers. Not more than four million Christmas trees are -cut each year, one in every fourth fam ily. If planted four feet apart they OCR MII-LIO.V trees were called upon last year to supply the demand for Christmas tree** in this country, and thoughtful in dividuals who have in mind the con servation of our national . esources lave asked the I riited States for could be grown on less than l.TiOO acres. Trees are for use, and there is no other use to .which they could be put which would contribute so much to the Joy of man as their use by the children on this one great holiday of the year." In Ger many, which lias the highest developed system of forest management of any country, the cutting of small Christmas trees is not considered in the least a menace to the forest, but, on the con trary, a me tns of improving It by thin ning judiciously, and is therefore con stantly encouraged. A Collapsible Christmas Tree. For those so situated that they cannot have a really truly large tree, there is a little novelty in the market that may be set on the window sill or used as a Cen terpiece for the Christmas table. This is a little collapsible Christmas tree made of paper, which imitates to a nicety the real forest balsam fir. This tree, which is about twenty inches high, comes packed in a box with cornucopia, candles and ornaments to trim It. Many a housewife with no maid at all or an extremely ineflicuent one, would like to invite a few friends to a Christ mas dinner if she could do so without too great a strain physically, mentally or financially. For such the following menu is suggested as feasible and satisfactory. Clam Cocktail or Sausage or Tongue Bourbees. Olives. firape. Jelly. Homemade Ilcklea. Tomato Bls<]ue with Croutons. Boast Guinea Fowl. Manhed Potatoes. Cauliflower au Gratln. Apple Salad. Wafers Spread wltb Cheese. Christmas Plum Pudding or Mince Pic with Chee??'. 1'rults. Nuts. ltaislD*. Popcorn. Black Coffee. Decorations for the Christmas table are easy to achieve, with the markets flooded with holly and mistletoe and the stores offering all sorts of Christmassy favors. A little Christmas tree in the center of the tabic or a small figure of Father Christmas encircled by a wreath of holly laid flat on the table, is pretty as can be. though holly may he replaced by other greens or the scarlet poinsettias if desired. If the dinner is served late In the afternoon candles suould be used for lighting wherever possible. Cathedral candles are extremely effec tive, used on the dining room mantel or sideboard, but their use presupposes suit able tall candlesticks. Holly wreaths are often hung nowadays ou'side the windows, where they keep fresher than when hung inside. A tree for the birds on the outside of the dining room window is also a pretty and popular idea. It should be trimmed with pieces of suet, tiny baskets of grain, little red apples and lumps of sugar, tied to Its branch s. Have the table all set with the canapes, bouchees or cocktail*, or whatever is de signed for the first course, on the plates before the guests are asked out to dinner. The roast can be dished on its platter and kept hot in the warming oven, to gether with the vegetables, gravy and plates. Tliis, of course, if the mistress of ceremonies has no one to assist her in waiting on the table. " Soup Is optional, and may be omitted if desired. If preferred, it can be poured in the heated tureen before sitting down to the table, and will remain hot while the appetizers of the first course are being discussed. If plum pudding is to be served, it can be in the steamer hot and ready for service when its turn comes. If mince pie, ;t, too, should be in the warming oven. A popular idea is to give it a coating of cream cheese. This just before bringing to the table. The coffee should be measured out and placed either in the percolator ready to have the hot water jjoured over it, or else in the coffee pot mixed with the white of egg and a little cold water in readiness for the boil ing water when the table is cleared for dessert. The dessert dishes, fruit, nuts, etc., should be on the sideboard with tin extra silver, bread, cheese, wafers, salad, etc.. on a little side table or butler's tray where the hostess can easily reach them. Of course there should be plenty of hot T f Wattles. Sunday Menu. BREAKFAST. Orange*. Cereal. Broiled Ham. Fried Sweet Potntocn. Kg) T ? t ? Coffee. Ilwuej. UIXXKH. \ ege table Soup. Celery. Salted I'wprorn. Roast Beef. Frnneonia PoIbIiipr. Macaroni ullli Cheese and Tomato. Waldorf Salad. Cheese Strnvts. Apple OumpllncH with Foamy Sanee. Coffee. SUPPER. Oyster Patties. Oatmeal Bread and Butter. Plekles. Cheese. tiiuKcr Takes. Orange Marmalade. Tea. 1 water for washing anything that may be needed, though with a little forethought and management it wi 1 no bo necessarv for the hostess to leave the table more than three times at most, and then only for a few moments during the progress of the meal. The butter made into pretty little curls or baits should be on each in dividual butter plate at the side of the cover. The bread sliced thin and piled evenly in a bread basket or on a plate with a doily under it. Tongue or Sausage Bouchees. These little appetizers are newer tiian the cocktails of clam, oyster or grape fruit, and are but little trouble to pre pare The usual foundation for any bou chee is a little circle of bread fried in butter, and as they are usually served cold they may be prepared the day before using. After frying to a delicate brown lay on a soft paper to absorb every sus picion of grease. Cover circles of this fried bread with red stars stamped out from boiled tongue or the red Imported sausage. Lay on top of each star, log eabin fashion, several tiny lengths of pickled gherkins or dill pickles, and crown with a sprig of water cress. Clam Cocktail. Should you prefer the clam cocktails here are directions for their making. These are also easily prepared and inex pensive. Allow tive small clams to each glass. Mix together, for twelve covers, seven teaspoonfuls each of prepared horse radish, tomato catsup and vinegar, ten teaspoonfuls of lemon Juice and one of tabasco sauce. Mix thoroughly and put an equal quantity into each glass. Let them get thoroughly chilled and blended before serving. Cream of Tomato Bisque. Put into a saucepan one quart of canned tomatoes or the equivalent in fresh ones peeled and sliced and one small onion sliced. Cook twenty minutes, then rub through a sieve and return to the Are to keep hot. Meanwhile boil a quart of milk in a double boiler, thicken with two ta blespoonfuls each butter and flour creamed together and stir constantly un til smooth and creamy. Season the ?strained tomato with a teaspoonful of sugar and salt and pepper to taste. When all ready to serve add a half tea spoonful of soda to the tomatoes and then the boiling thickened milk. Stir quickly and serve at once with croutons. If liked, a little minced parsley may be added to the tomato Ave minutes before the milk Is turned In. If you use the bouchees for the flret course of your dinner you may like a clam bisque for the second, Instead of tomato. Clam Bisque. To one pint clams allow one cup milk, one cup cream, one tablespoonful of but ter, two tablespoonfuls of flour, a small slice onion, one blade macc, one table spoonful minced parsley, half a teaspoon ful salt and a quarter teaspoonful pepper. Pick over the clams and rinse in cold water; reserve all the clam liquor; chop the hard part of the clams and cook in the hquor until it boils; strain; melt the butter in saucepan, add the flour and cook two minutes, then pour in the hot liquor and stir until thick. Have ready the milk and cream that have been scalded in the double boiler with the onion and mace; strain these out and stir the hot milk into the thickened liquor. Add the soft part of the clams chopped, the minced parsley, pepper and salt; cook ten minutes and serve. Boast Guinea. t Pill with any dressing preferred. Rub over with olive oil and dust with salt and pepper. Dredge well with flour and put in a hot oven for an hour and a half, basting frequently. The giblets should be cooking meantime In water to cover. When the fowl is roao. x a rich brown, season the gravy with onion juice and a little minced pareley. Add the finely minced giblets and thicken with browned flour or culinary bouquet. Serve currant or grape jelly with guinea fowl. Should you prefer your guinea broiled you must choose a young bird. In this case wash thoroughly and spilt down the back. Wipe dry, flatten slightly, brush over with olive oil, duct with salt and pepper and dredge with flour. Broil over a clear fire. Cook about fifteen minutes, dish and cover with a rich brown gravy. Gar nish with mashed potato in little mounds interspersed with sprigs of water cress. Dutch Sugar Bread. Take a cupful of bread dough and work into it a table* poonful of lard. Let it rise again. Put a cupful of sugar into a bowl and work in enough butter and flour to make moist balls the size of a Albert. Cover the sheet thickly with the balls and bake. Serve with coffee. FASHION NOTES. Crepe de chine is the favorite material for the dressy blouse. Ladies' auto coats are in pony skin, caracul, muskrat and raccoon. Striped flannel, linen and madras are used for mourning shirt waists. Large handbags are passe. The ne\rest are small, made of undressed kid. A low neck is often outlined with roses made of gold and silver cloth. The cuirass in lace or jet-studded net for evening wear is very dainty. The old polonaise, which means side draping^, Is the most popular tunic. A new watch chain this season is of thin gold, threaded with tiny pearl6. The tricorne hat, now the rage, wis first worn in the reign of Louis XIV. Satin charmeuse has again taken the place of heavier cloth for dnssy wear. Many of the new rough ulsters and blanket coats are lined w'th leatner. either a soft suede or even the harsher skins. White plumes on black hats and black plumes on white hats are the most used of all trimmings for the evening. Mink fur ranks high and comes in coats, capes fifty inches long, and In a great variety of neckpieces. Large wings, brush aigrettes and tiny Mercury wings are the trimmings moit favored for the new turbans.