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Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, April 17, 1910, Image 57

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DOWN* from the day? of 1S.1i> .steps
the little wrap which graiulmother
called the pelerine, and
which Is more graceful, mote
varied and probably more artistic
for the modern touch that has heen
given to tt.
Drecoll was one of the first houses
over In Paris to show what a charming
little thing: an adaptation of a scarf
can be. Of aupple cloth or silk, chiffon
or net, the pelerine may be fashioned.
It ia best when made to match the gown;
It la even successfully worn with a separate
skirt and its blouse to match. At
any rate, there Is a wonderful possibility
In the garment, for the changes are
legion, the effect always charming.
IltV ah an>o^l f ortm tlin t tKo nft!
urn virwru 11 uui iuc iium iuc |?rierine
has the effect of a crossed fichu.
Tills Is q-uite attainable when the soft
silk (changeable is the favorite! is used.
The narrow ends encircle the waist and
tie in a butterfly bow at the back. Or,
if the material be perishable, the bow
can be permanent and the fastening secured
by a hook.
At the back this little wrap is capelike,
dropping in folds over the shoulders.
The top edge is kept in shape by the
narrow collar; the lower part is finished
with a ruttte of the same material, of
chiffon that exactly matches the shade
of the wrap, or by long, silk fringe that
is again invading fashion's realm.
Glance at the drawing at the'left and
your practical eye will grasp the salient
points of the pelerine in a Simple form.
Then place it over the shoulders as shown
In the central figure, cross it at the
front like the right-hand model, and tie
the ends at the back. There von are
with a comfortable accepted style for
spring and summer wrap!
The figure at the left shows a gown
that is well combined with a pelerine.
First of all. the yoke is of figured net
shirred, over cords that form rounded
lines. The tiny revers are edged with
the same material as the wrap. The
bodice is plain below the yoke, thus insuring
a smoothness in the lines of the
outer garment. Even the sleeves are
constructed with this end in view. Then
.lust below the edge of the pelerine there
is the required fullness in the lace sleeves.
And that brings us to the question of
this important part of the dress. You
will notice that half, and sometimes more
than half, of the sleeve is shown beneath ;
the pelerine. Suggestions will not be
amiss. The bodice and sleeve are in one.
first of all. Most of the trimming and
fullness is below the elbow. Frills of net
i?ve ur iune arc useu 10 give a numness
reminiscent of olden times, although In
one model the long lace-trimmed cuff is
excellently combined with a bell-shaped
Variations of the lower edge of the top
sleeve are secured by scallops, points,
quare tabs or crossed lines. Braid, frills
and lace are used with h lavish hand.
Tour own Ideas and the limitations of
material should be the guiding lines for
the sleeves.
The importance of considering both
outer wrap and the integral parts of the
eostume beneath, in their relation to
each other cannot be too much emphasized.
One thing is certain: the pelerine,
fir the "paletot," as some call it, is here
and bids for well deserved popularity.
French Fas!
PARIS. April 7. W10.
THK separate manteau of black
satin is here. it is worn with
the afternoon gown, and when
fashioned of rich, dull silk and embellished
with braid or embroidery is i
well fitted to supply decoration an?l 1
ilore than ever is the soft wrap of
charnieuse or chiffon seen as a graceful
complement of the afternoon or
evening gown. Indeed, it Js designed
as a part of a costume, and well serves <
Its purpose of a contributing factor i
in the general scheme.
At the Maison Lewis an extremely 1
good looking black hat was shown, i
ft for Vf v>'!
H\ A/? '*S* ?..*
Iff.r/? sjAiel
Hvy>*i ig i;a
Pfc*?V'v irrJNff
A beautiful design for a I
model is semi-princess, the Ion
much to its grace. The side b
has a double row of shirring
collar and broad bands on the
of embroidery which outlines tl
front, which buttons over a bo
piece of all-over eyelet embroil
skirt. This would be pretty <
i ^
^ For
1 TJ T? "D 1
ii rj xi
Cushion Designs.
THE present-day cushion design 1
* usually conventional and takes 01
the upright lines of- long stems or trel
llsses rather than a circular pattern. Cer
tain blossoms lend themselves more sue
4Vtan 4 a i imm! aV 4- rl nnt
Liiau unicia iv wyi igiii ucoign.
There, for instance, are the Tudor rose
the poppy, the Japanese iris and tlv
tulip, all of which work up well wit!
long stems and straggling leaves.
For these cushions the flat Japanes
stitch is considered more effective thai
padded work, and the floss chosen t
usually coarse stuff that fills in speedil>
producing the best effect in the least time
A Circular Sacque.
A hastily made dressing sacque for a
invalid may be cut, like & cape, on cir
cular lines, and after the lower edge an
the V-shaped neck opening are lace trim
med or hemmed and featherstitched th
little garment Is drawn together unde
the arms to form a sleeve.
Exactly where the pins Indicate th
most comfortable sleeves two long bul
tonholes are worked upon the front o
the garment at each side and upon th
back at each sideFour
ribbons an inch wide and thref
quarters of a yard long will be require
to form the sleeves.
Two are pulled through the corn
snondinir ?lnt a linrla* ? -
_1 uuuci catii mm ana tnei
ends tied together at the front and a
the back, leaving stripe of ribbon abou
four inches long on the under side c
the garment to give looseness under th
lion Notes.
with its straw crown draped with i
scarf and bow of "bleu de roi' satin
veiled with black chiffon. This com
bination, by the way, is a pleasing
favorite for afternoon wear.
There is a gratifying simplicity it
many of the newest chapeaux. On<
striking hat seen at the Casino was
of black chantlllv lace
tuft mure
Fringe on the petticoat is one o
the newest lingerie touches. Of course
the silk petticoat is the one to whicl
the soft fringe has attached Itself.
Many white muslin or sheer linei
frocks are in .preparation for tin
harm days, and the noticeable featur'
Is the skirt in two or three tiers
'l'hen, too. the introduction of fin?
embroidery is worth while. One fa
inous house has shown a decided pref
thiii gown is given here. The
g lines of the insertion adding
odies are plain white, the front
at the waist line. The Dutch
sleeves are of lace. The band
fie shoulders forms a tab in the
vv of silk. A gracefully shaped
lery is set on the bottom of the
jeveloped in white batiste.
the H Of
5 L E RI:
?* x.
/*trr I if
erence for fine embroidery outlined
with gold thread, which shows hour
strong the Influence of the Japanese is.
In the well known house on the Ruo
i Auber there are being shown some
, stunning models of tailored suits. One
- Is of cose cheviot, with tiny stripes
* one inch apart. A collar of black
satin and the season's low fastening
i at the waist line give a decided attraei
tion to the coat, which Is quite short,
s reaching Just to the hips. A scanty
. skirt lias a box pleat at the back and
( front, and on the sides a bias floftnce
. of cloth. Many models of striped ma i
terials. A new fabric, called "cotes
de cheval," is very supple and comes
i in the newest shades.
* At the Ney Soeurs there are exqui?
site color schemes In the new suits
. Here, too, stripes predominate. A
3 coarse basket cloth, "drap natte," in
- cream and white, will be mucii used
- for summer costumes. Tailored models
of satin, "sergte de sole" and "serge
de chine" are worn in the afternoon,
when suits are more appropriate for
semi-formal occasions.
C'arller is using many brilliant flowers
on his hats. One of his latest
creations is a Louis XVI model, turne 1
up at the back, of pale gray straw
and trimmed with two huge deep plnK
and black velvet choux. ELOISE.
Present for Baby.
ONE of the prettiest, baby presents we
know of Is the hood and cape, and
thgre can be devised no more necessary
garment for throwing round the little one.
Plain challls, French flannel or line
cashmere will make a beautiful cape: perhaps
the last named is the most satist
There are two ways of making a comfortable
cape- It- may be lined with China
silk or left without a lining, but in either
case the hood demands a soft lining
against the head. A twist of ribbon
passes round the back of the neck on
the outside, holding in the fullness of cap
and cape and ending in a rosette at each
side of the tiny face.
From this point hattgs an end of ribbon
to tie the cape together at the throat.
A tiny circular design of flowers and
sterna Is often embroidered on each of the
pointed ends of the cape and 011 each
side of the cap above the rosette.
' Whatever linings you have decided to
. use are now basted in. and the scallop
along the edge Is worked through cashmere
and lining silk.
Delicate blue or pink, embroidered in
self tones, will make a most attractive
gift for some little stranger if the ribbons
used for strings and rosettes are the
rich wide variety of the wash quality in
the same shade.
RnrHnrp Mafpriak
BORDERED materials, which are the
"bordure" of the French, are having
renewed success, owing to the tunic line
and the pleated short skirt.
Pattern dresses all show a certain decorated
portion ready for use as a tunic,
or else a sufficient length of print or embroidery
in depth suited to a skirt.
Painting with stencil board and dyes
has been resorted to on sheer voiles to
bring about the bordure effect, while the
applique out from cretonne or chintz is
frequently applied to the garment proper
and draped with chiffon to soften the
possible crudeness of the hasty work.
The bordure is to be got by various
methods. One device is the appliqueing
of motifs of cluny upon handkerchief
linen and the enhancing of this knee-deep
work by powdered patterns of hand embroidery
in coarse Japanese work.
This form of flat embroidery, too, has
been employed alone to give a bordure effect
to the tunic and the fichu, which
often match.
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TO the women who would a-hattlng go
there Is an added factor In becomingness
of present styles that is self-evident.
Facings of all materials, shapes
and sizes are Important, and very frequently
furnish the greater part of the
effective work on spring millinery. In
the realm or the hatmaker facing has
lieen made to include the upper and lower
surfaces of the brim and the covering of
the crown. Indeed, the term has spread
to the proportions of covering most of the
shape: and it were well to consider this
subiect in its various nhases before at
tempting? construction or ornamentation.
In the &rst place, there la the large
black straw hat that looks exceedingly
well when faced with white braid differing
in texture from that of the hat.
The rough moss braid, almost like uncut
velvet, is advised, because this supplies a
softening of the lines on the under surface
of the hat. Frequently a cording is
used to edge the brim, the color depending
upon your taste.
Immense straw-colored shapes are given
a highly favored facing when a wide
band of black velvet is placed as a contrasting
ring. If this be your choice,
outline the nroad band on both edges
with a black velvet cording. When a
huge bow or cabochon is used, this black
band (for It does not cover the entire
under surface) can be pointed upward
and joined beneath the trimming.
t'hantillv lace, or the silk lace of Spanish
shawls, is another effective facing for
leghorns. The scallops eliminate all difficulties
of obtaining a required neatness
of the outer edge. The fullness can be
easily pleated In toward the crown, there
being little difficulty in manipulating the
i soft mesh. A word with regard to the
lace facings: There is always danger In
{ (oo sharp a contrast. Few women can
' successfully wear yellow against black, or
black over yellow. Soften the new leghorn
or straw with golden brown or ecru,
or, if white must be used, outline forms
and figures with a running stitch of
J T .. * U 1^.
i iJiif.ii iiucuu. in iiur w <%y uir ia*.c
will be blended into the contrasting background.
Many hats of the evening type are
faced on upper or lower surfaces with
net under which a band of shirred flowered
silk has been fastened, for this
veiling of color is too effective to relegate
to gowns. Both white and black
chiffon, tulle and maline are used.
Crowns are now faced with metallic or
colored laces, in many instances the scalloped
edge running for a short distance
1 on the upper surface of the brim. Again
there is a decoration of straw that runs
in an opposite direction from that of the
woven hat. This idea can be realized
when the attractive little mushroom shape,
with its silk-crown, needs a brim to offer
a contrast on the under surface.
The facing- is decidedly a potent contributing
factor to the general appearance
of the hat, and should be emphasized
in planning for attractive spring
Points on Turbans.
MANY are quite simple, resting fat
down on the head, and of such a
, convenient roundness that the trimming
may be shifted* from back to either sidt
at the pleasure of the owner.
A softening touch of pleated chiffon, nei
or lace is used on the under surface ol
the straw brim. This is Just the rellel
that many women require, for the
1 straight line of straw across the forehead
is trying in its demands for good
Roses and inoire ribbon are used or
many of the turbans. The colors may
be the pale pastel shades of buff, pink
A G A 11
1.1 u | j * Vg I s 1 SAZA I
K W^wJm
(III wk I MmM
and blue, and look extremely well wh<
trimming the favorite leghorns.
Tulle, net and gauze are being selz
with delight, for the transparency pr
duces an iridescent effect and the quail
of the material Insures a comfortat
lightness of weight.
, On a great number of these lace modi
the Jeweled ornament is placed at t!
front, and touches the forebead after t
fashion of an oriental headdress.
i Straw turbans have huge high-standh
. brims which give a tailored line. Occ
sionallv this is relieved by a bow of vi
Facings of brown or black velvet a
this sprtug's touch. The contrast Is ge
erally becoming, and is a test ef go<
, workmanship. This latter point, of cours
will mark the amateur from the expert.
straw noses.
STRAW hat braids are being utlliz
by clever women for the manufa
ture of artificial roses In the very litl
sizes?the tiny cluster roses that foi
tight bunches or cabochons.
They are chiefly seen on tailored h
models of rough-and-ready straw, a
are made to match the hat. although of
softer, more pliable straw braid, or th
are made of a contrasting brighter col<
This flexible straw braid is rolled t
tween the thumb and finger, and Is th
held tightly and sewed into a roeeb
and surrounded by other buds like It
. the number of two dozen or more.
To this group is added an edging
' artificial green leaves, and they are cla
ped against the velvet band of a tr
tailored hat to serve as buckle or b<
where the velvet joins.
Deep rose red with green leaves loo
1 well on a light rose-colored straw trii
1 med with a black velvet ribbon.
The all-lavender hat made up of stra
with self-colored velvet trimming is i
lieved by these tiny roses made of pll
ble black straw braid surrounded by gre
leaves, and the white rough-and-rea<
sailor shape with rose-colored silk as
scarf drapery Is made more fetching by
bunch of the roses of straw braid
match the silk and the necessary additi
of the green leaves.
Fastening Shirt Waists.
A SHIRT WAIST fastens in deligt
fully varied lines this spring, f
the blessing of which fact the womi
who is a devotee of this sensible stj
should be trlil y grateful. Of course, the
is the invisible fastening under the ce
tra! boxpleat. It is always good a:
| meets the demands of the straight line
the "tailor" woman.
There are scallops to right of us. so
. lops to left of us, and ours is but
choose the line that is most suitable
our figures. The variety Is most gra
On one model, for lnstanoe, three lar
' scallops will define the left side of t
rront. These can be embroidered in bi
tonhole stitch with white linen or wl
colored thread to match the skirt. T1
same Idea is developed in points, a:
again in squares. Tiny pearl butto
are placed in each little piece.
A diagonal line from shoulder to t
center of the belt is a result of the ml
tary note in some of the spring sui
' The straight Russian effect, of course,
s the result of the Russian blouse th
will recur every few years with i
newed force,
i Some shirt waists fasten in a line th
; follows the armhole. if the huge ei
broidered plastron of linen thread nil
! rest in undisturbed glory on the froi
. This fastening at the side is suggest
I for the shirt waist with an irregul
In other words, the shirt waist of t
i season may fasten anywhere on t
front-drlth the full sanction of autht
; it jr.
X ^
THE sailor dress and the middy m
blouse have reached a state of w
perfection, so far as pattern and m
workmanship go, that makes them more g(
than ever desirable for little boys and y<
girls as well as for older girls, and even
for their youthful mothers who need the
? outing garment for camping or seashore
wear. is
It is not now possible to escape the
becoming line in the middy garment, fc
since they have been planned in many b<
ways to suit various figures and faces. w
Collars are elongated as to the front It
point, or they are short and broad in
effect; they are even square. Some of
them are of moderate sixe, while others
extend down, covering the shoulders arid J
nearly half of the back.
The stitched pleee which forms a
straight or shaped yoke is variously cut, |
and the blouse is made to button in |
front or to slip on over the head, and, (
last but not least, the sleeve is of several
shapes and the cuff is a band or is formed
by let-in pleats. w
The sleeve may be the regulation mannish
sailor-cut, fastened at the arm's eye ai
to the garment and then seamed from the si
cuff up the arm, Including the under-arm in
seam: or else it is so cut as to be of a tc
more girlish outline, with a few gathers
at the top and let into the arm's eye bl
after the blouse has been put together. it;
Indeed, it Is scarcely possible to fall in
the making of the middy blouse when w
a J.* t -1 1; ,
once you nave graspeu trie mm auu n,
learned to do straight work on the ma- p<
chine. P)
Now, as to the main body of the gar- m
en ment: It no longer <8 as bulky as it once
was, but takes on more fitted lines, suitaed
ble for the older girl.
Q- Whether it be worn within the skirt or *
ty outside, it is fitted more closely, and, if ?
l,e considered desirable, it may be shortened,
after the final shrinkage has taken place, Sl
and then fastened to a belt which shall o
button to the skirtband.
he The middy blouse is, however, often p
^orn outside of the skirt. It is so fin- ti
nS ished that its hem is neatest upon the
wrong side, so that It may be turned up ri
and buttoned in this position by buttons ii
placed in pairs at the back, front and
r? each aide.
"r As to the skirt for this type of blouse: m
a very good fit about the waist line and
te> the hips is demanded, and as little extra is
fullness as possible, because, at best, the ci
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Here is a natty little street si
for spring days. The jacket poi
In- hole and broad open space at the
herd's plaid in blue and white, cl
e?i these also trim the jacket. The <
,r of the plaid. The skirt is plain,
lie stitched on the outside. With tl
rice straw, the brim caught up z
bird of paradise.
Stencils on Crepe.
'OME verv pretty stencil work is done
' upon cotton crepe for wearing: aptrel,
but it can only be reoommended for
essing gowns and boudoir robes.
While it is generally understood that
e carefully applied stencil will launder
lukewarm soapy water he used, it
ivors too much of faneywork to be
commended for actual dresses.
Ppon the dressing gown, however, a
ilnty butterfly stenciled at intervals on
crepe surface is graceful, and a conditional
floral design or repeat for the '
ng front heme and for the flowing
eeves is most effective.
The paler shades of crepe are those on
hioh colored stencils of contrasting tones
e most successfully applied. ,
Sleeve Trimming.
t 1.1, tucks and trimmings tunning
round a sleeve are in good lines for
the present season.
They are becoming to slender arms;
ley provide a nice means of introducing
ce Insertion or embroidery Into the
eeve region of a garment, and they give
e general impression of the sectional
rn - ^m MM ? ? ?
iddy suit, being made of none too lighteight
material, is heavy.
A very slightly kilted skirt, having three
four large pleats on each side, is a
>od model when it is taken Into a fitted
>ke at the top.
Lacing through eyelets at the back vent
still in vogue, or buttons or lacinga at
ich side of the front panel.
For the young woman the middy blouse
a neglige street costume, and when is
tis type bad form in midsummer, except
>r parties?
And for the little tot there can scarcely
s imagined a time when a well made allhite
sailor suit will be out of place,
s cleanliness will pass It anywhere.
To All Embroiderers.
rHE need of good tools is felt tirst of
all by the novice Who has not yet
ot any, but the old embroiderer
rows sadly careless of this lack; and
tough she feels it. she neglects the pur?iase
of such new devices as the latest
lape in hoops or the smallest sire, either
f which may wonderfully improve her
There are needles, too, for various silks
rid yarns, without which some home
jbstitute is resorted to, to the everlas'g
disadvantage of worker and, sadder
? relate, the work. . - Professional
work is not always posaie
without a frame, and this would provp.
s necessity even to the amateur.
A book of stitches, or even a general,
ork upon hand embroidery, will thraw.
ght upon many a doubtful point, ana
ftrsistpnt vi Hit a to tho /w? ?
. v.7 ? \# * v- wuineiD vi ac
artments of art needlework will add
tuch useful information.
Bound With Ribbon. .
used for soft scarflike decorations on
ome of the best new hat shapes of black
r dark "blue faced with black.
The cut edges of this twelve-inch-wide .
ongee are bound with two-inch black
aflfeta ribbon stitched on by machine.
Where wire is needed in the bow it is
un through the casing made by the bindiS
Many of the new coat sleeves are of
lasculine coat shape without any pei >ptible
fullness at the armhole, and flnhed
at the wrist with soutache or a
iff stitched or embroidered.
lit of blue serge, just the thing
rtion is cut with a wide armfront
showing a vest of shep
osed by cloth buttons of blue :
:losely fitting sleeve has a cuff
the hem being turned up and
lis suit is worn a large nat of
md held on the left side by a
/ ^

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