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ATTRAC' ? Fineness of Material Rather Than Fancy Trimmings in Tailored Models?A New Way to Make Bishop Sleeves?Frills May Be Buttoned on When Freshly Laundered?Heavier Laces Preferred Now ? Combining Shop and Homemade Effecis ?The Dutch Neck Again Reigns Supreme. ra 1TH the return of w I ?> / warm weather \ \ W ft* I there returns also fgf \ VA Y7 /JjW I the same old tit readWt A VA I /ill I hare s t or v about P^A\\ ?y/J I the elimination of \ \ yg / the shirt waist. Ons 7 . yf I hears the final dfei r*K w k \l I turn ? presumably / /^A /\ / of Paris?that suits I f rSrt I \ lrQf\ and blouses must Tl^wll \/L.JI match in color and ir r f ymm that all the eh'rt waists worn by really well dressed women are of some other material than a lingerie tuff and of a color repeating the hue of the skirt accompanying them. Who. then, one speculates, are all the trig, attractive feminine folk who remove their spring jackets to reveal cool, fresh and obviously new white lingerie blouses? A a this talk about the elimination of ti e white shirt waist is nonsense. The while washable blouse has become too thoroughly and indispensably a feature of the summer wardrobe to be sacrificed to any style mandate. There are days w hen there is noth ng bearable beneath - tMidline- suit evcent a washable v.aii?.. On such a day the chiffon blouse over a silk lining, or even a thin silk < blouse, looks hot and feels hotter; and with June only a few weeks off it is high X me the foreslghted woman has her warm-weather blouses off the sewing machine and in the shirt waist box ready for wear. * * * The plainness of the new* blouses strikes one noticeably in a first canvass of the shops where shirt waists are special lxed. A ffrw tucks and a frill are the sole trimming in many cases, or there is a simple banding of embroidery introduced down the front; but materials, in the case of the best waists, are beauSP , The rear's at the spring * ml day's at the dawn; ' ?rninx'8 at seven, he hillside's dew pearled; in- lark'a on the wing, i he mail's on the thorn; <;<-<! In His heaven. All's right with the world. ?Browning, in "Pippa Passes.' "Common things - - - ? SVI.M iivt- me. de?r Ix?pb. Tny mafic commou iu.ui>> Which all ran are. which all may share. Sunlifbt an?l dewdrnps. grass and atara and sea, Nothing unique or new and nothing rare. Just (lalaies, knapweed, wind auiong the thorna; Some clouda to crone the Mue old sky above; Ualn. winter Are*, a useful hand, a heart. The common glory of a woman's love. Then when my feet no longer tread old paths Keep them from fouling sweet things anywhere) Write one old epitaph In grace-lit words, 'Such tblnga look fairer that he sojourned here.' " LENTY of work these days for the j housewife whose SI TolJI spring cleaning Is /Ml still unfinished, vi Bag whose garden and tttfl dooryard still claim her attentlon' whose rapldly emptying preVfe-T ^ serve closet calls for reinforcements and whose furs and woolens must all be carefu..- looked ove', cleansed and packed away so as to defy the would-be ravages of the rapacious moth. Spring sewing Is on, too, with old clothes to be revised and brought up to date and new ones made. Yet with it all it la the wise woman who takes a few short cuts here and there, so as to get time to see the wild flowers growing, take In great soul-satisfying draughts of the sweet spring-scented air, and loaf a little while "inviting one's soul." With the body driven at high pressure to the $ :TAsh] nVE DET EstMHra^?SS&?: > 5>Vs v 'C'^-f^ V|SV BT^^BT^B^iTrrlTM^ir"' ' *' v-x-. >. . ... iihi mw Bppn^MH^' *<?Vt f ^ jjo^ s % ljl||p p ^k<| y^*H B- Bv/ ^1 ^b BJ\^ / IBlli^^iP^t ill lfl gOs^y*^ \x LlM lifully fine, and some of these exquisitely fine blouse3 with daintily run pin-tucks and a pleated frill along one side of the front are quite as attractive and in mucn better taste than the honeycombed lace and lawn models of a few seasons since. A marquise blouse for wear with tailored s; its was made in this fashion, the maferial being fine French batiste. Halfinch tucks were run across the front fi or 11 shoulder to bunt, continuing all the way Jov. n the front as the center was reached. The blouse fastened toward the left?as everything does this Russian-mad soarori?and the ed*te was finished with a shaped frill of the lawn some four fchea wide at clie top and tapering to .1 ; oint at the bottom. Down the center front of the blouse went a row of fine I umlmrg embroidery. 'J'he sleeves of this waist, in bishop style, were gathered Into ruffs of tucking and the upper sleeve was made smaller by rows of tucks running from the top down to about the elhow. This is a clever notion which secures a trim look at the shoulder line, it' give., the slightly fuller *nee"?'e which is liked now. Another clever feature Is the detachuhle frill which may be slipped out and sent to a special laundry to be fluted crisply?something the ordinary washerwoman cannot do. This saves the expense of sending the whole blouse to the special French laundry whose prices are prohibitive to the average woman. The detachable frill Is sewed to a narro.v strip of batiste and in this buttonholes are worked at Intervals corresponding to those worked on the blouse front. The frill is then buttoned on over the pearl buttons of the blouse and remains there until removed ror laundering. wniie frills for wear In silk blouses may be attached in the same way. m * ? Many colored effects are shown in the new summer shirt waists and some of them are very pretty. A white batiste waist, tucked across the front, has a pleated frill bordered with blue and white dotted lawn, and the dotted lawn also finishes cuffs and collar. This blouse would be very dainty with a blue serge suit. A pink atiu white cotton voile blouse in tiny stripes had a plain pink lawn frill set under the striped one of voile, and pipings of the plain pink were used on cuffs and collar. This model was shown also in green and white .and lavender and white and was much admired. It should be remembered In making all washable blouses to have them loose enough?and loose enough to allow for shrinking, too. French women like their blouses snug enough to outline all the curves of the figure, and most of the French blouses?made for the smallRING IS J last extremity of endurance, the mental outlook is blurred, the temper gets dangerously explosive, the disposition soured and we are far from "pleasant to live with." Better Is It, therefore, to let some of the non-essentials go by the board, while we take a little time to absorb our share of the beauty and healing about us. While every one likes some little dessert for dinner, these need not be so elaborate as to take much of the housewives' time In their preparation. Custards, tabooed through the winter on account of the high prices of eggs, can now be used freely. They are very easy to make and need never srell failure If certain fixed rules are observed. Wholesome, Delicate Custard. The easiest and nicest way to make a custard is to bake it. setting the d'sh containing it in a larger one of hot water. The oven should be moderate, and the moment the custard is done, which can be told by slipping a knife blade down the side, and if it cr-mes up clean, with none of the custard adhertag, time's up. Take from the oven and lift out of the hot water.. Let cool gradually, then set in the cellar or in the ice box until ready to serve. The rule for a plain custard is an easy one to remember. Four eggs to every quart of sweet fresh milk. A tablespoonful of sugar to eaoh egg, a pinch of salt and flavoring as desired. Nutmeg is a good old-fashioned flavor for custard, but by varying the flavor a custard may appear on the family bill of fare several times a week and never wear out its welcome. Beat the eggs without separating whites and yolks until strlnglness Is removed, but do not beat overlong or they will float on the surface of the milk Instead of mingling properly. Add to the beaten eggs the sugar, milk and flavoring, pour into individual or a large stoneware bowl, set in the dripping pan of hot water and bake 5" * ionsLj AILS FOI vTin^HP^1 ':< / a. \^ \v^-v''.v:-':j9^^i'i>!$> I H ; I |L ?S||.y <^S < i s I wm&*m zm I s; vfffll ^olCcEXARI^ ^ I >.^P B H / I >,i^v 'il I H Jf^'" jl2| A V - fl|^E3 ^BaL^.; V B BAt^ : * A H9& ' ^B-x. ^ boned French woman?are painfull? skimpy across the broader shoulders o American women. In fact some of th. French makers, realiz ng this, suppl; special blouses for their American pa trons, following Parisian style inapira tlons, but making all proportions mon generous. The very slender woman al ways looks best in a sh'rt waist for thi OAMMnM ? it 'nllfl lAAaftltr O rrr<* oofllll 1 I canvii Liiai 11 iaita iuuoc IJ cmu gtavviunj from her shoulders as an informal gar ment of this sort should. The plum] woman, and especially the woman wit) a large bust, should see that her shir waists are sufficiently full to hang witl this easy grace, and such women wil wisely make the'r own shirt waists a home, for the models in the shops, grade wholly by neck sizes, are very seldon full enough across the bust or shoulder blades for the stout woman. Lingerie blouses, like the tailored styles, show more fineness of materia and less elaboration of trimming thai ^ BUSY S about half an hour In a moderate oven The individual custards will bake mor quickly than the large one. Coffee Custard. Put one-half cup ground coffee In a littl muslin bag and drop into four cups o cold milk. Let stand twenty minutes then put into the double' boiler until 1 ? - ? - ? 1 ? a 1. gx reacnes me scumum puim. v uujv uv minutes; then remove the has and pou the hot milk over four beaten eggs am foui heaping t&blespoonfuls of sugar Pour into a custard bowl and set in th pan of hot water in the oven, or, if pre ferred, turn back Into the double boilei Cook until it thickens, strain and se aside to cool. Caramel Custard. Put a half cupful sugar in a smoot frying pan and stir until it melts an takes on a rich b own color. Add to piain custard, made as usual, but lessen ing the amount of sugar and flavorin with vanilla. Other Good' Cue tarda To make a chocolate custard grate little chocolate over the tops of custard just aR they are ready to go into th oven to bake. This forms a crisp coat ing wh.cli looks pretty and adds much t the flavor for those who are fond o chocolate. Orange custard needs th grated yellow find of an orange with i little of the Juice. Cocoanut custard 1 made by sprinkling freshly grated cocoa nut Into buttered and lightly sugare cups before turning in the plain cus.arc Flavor with orange rind or vanilla. Whei baked, turn out and serve with sweetene whipped cream. Some More Good Maple Becipes. While maple sugar is still a featur itestF * -THE NE " W&^wz i LjM ^m xsS tvle ttC 3C mmmmim flnHHI l^tMlr -r <<' m '" ' Bli U;'V I B|i >F JEEAHE.SE. ^MVt-TIDI "* ?-> m T*? 1 11111 I nl ==*=-: MHMJVJ i formerly. Very dainty models of sheer f batiste tucked all the way across front e and back and w'th three-quarter sleeves f finished with tucked cuffs may be picked . up for as low as $1.98, and the canny worn. an buys these simple models, adds a few e yards of really good laoe and presto! has . a blouse that she could not buy over h e counter for twice the dollar-nlnety-elght r price. Rather heavy laces are liked, torchon, p cluny and?for those who may indulge in 1 it?baby Irish. Somet'mes these heavy t laces are set (between entre deux of val, i but always the design is kept quite sim1 pie. the honeycombing and peek-a-boo eft fects being no longer considered in good d taste. One's lingerie blouse, however, may i be as thin as a cobweb and quite as peek - a-boo In effect as though perforated with occasional frank holes. These very sheer 1 waists are worn over exquisite French 1 corset covers?not lacy ones, but handi made French garments embroidered with ihAbUlN H I* e Sunday Menu. BREAKFAST. Orangei Cereal Rice mad Salmon Croquettes Water Creaa Maple Biscuits ' Coffee. ' DINNER. * Cream of Tomato Roup e Cucumber Pickles Radishes r Swiss Roast of Beef, Horseradish a Browned Potatoes Salsify Lettuce Salad L Crackers Brie Cheese Maple Pie Coffee. t SUPPER. Creamed Potatoes Evf Salad Custard Spouse Cake h Tea d ?L of the spring markets, let "me give you ? a few more excellent recipes. Maple Found Cake. Cream one-half pound of butter with a two cupfuls of sugar, add four well beaten eggs, two cupfuls of maple sirup, one cupful of milk, a pinch of e salt, six cupfuls of flour and nutmeg * to flavor. 0 Maple Sugpfr Cake. e Cream one cupful of fine stirred-off sugar with a scant one-half cupful of 8 butter, add one whole egg and the yolk - of another, well beaten, one scant cupJ a..? ?M _II1> .iji.a a iui ui uum aim wwu vuyiuis ui oil tea ' . flour, with two teaspoons of baking powder. Bake In a biscuit tin, or in two deep layer cake tins, from twenty to twenty-five minutes. Frosting for cake: Boil one and one-fourth cupfuls of maple sugar with one-fourth cupe ful of water until It hairs when dropped ? iW SUMM V 1 *v I SBHHHSHWjl! ^ 5b5 ? J XAILQR ELD ' Seqetwaist HHr Fob Ouromg v. #m iii?f Ho2 AMaj^T scallops and flower sprays and with rib bons run through hand-worked eyelets. Everybody breathes a sigh of relief tha Dutch necks are still 'In." Nothing s< cool and comfortable for hot summe: days was ever devised, and one pitta the poor masculine folk who may no dolt their horrible linen collars and about with their throat bared to cool ing breeres. The woman who canno stand the rather severe test of a rount Dutch neck may have her high bone! stock if she will, or she may wear on* of the coquett'sh little French frilli which encircle the throat, lying flat lik a collar and finished with a pert, becom ing bow of dark velvet under the chin. i Description of the Fashion Photos Abov( No. 1?Collar 1 ?93 Style. A COLLAR or not a collar makes al the difference in the -world in sum mer comfort, and most women are de DR THE 1 In cold water. Remove from the fir and pour slowly into the stiffly beatei white of one egg, stirring all the time When thick enough, spread over th< cake. Maple Spice Drops. The yolks of three eggs, one-half eup ful of butter, one cupful of maple sirup one-half cupful of sweet milk, one fourth teaspoonful each of ground nut meg, cloves and cinnamon, three tea spoonfuls of baking powder sifted wit! flour enough to make a soft dough Drop on buttered tins and bake in j quick oven. Maple Buns. To one pint of bread sponge ad< one small cupful of grated maple sugar two large eggs, well beaten, one-hai: scant cupful of soft butter, one-hal teaspoonrui or sait, ana nuur 10 nmit a soft dough. When light, shape lnt buns and let rise again. Bake In i quick oven. Maple Biscuits. Make a very rich baking powdei biscuit dough and roll out to halt tin thickness of biscuits, cut out with u small cutter, sprinkle grated mapl< sugar over the tops of half of them moisten the under sides of the others and lay them on top of the sugarec ones, pressing them on well. La) close together in a tin, brush ovei with milk or melted butter, and bak< in a quick oven. : Maple Cookies. Warm three cupful* of maple siruj in a saucepan until it will melt, ^ ther cream with one cupful of butter. * Adc the well beaten yolks of four eggs, oq? cupful of milk, two teaspoons of bak ing powder sifted with two cupfuls ol flour, the whites of the eggs beaten =^Fo ER SHIRT mmmmmmmmmmmmm 7i5?, blouse, - lighted that the collarless blouse will again be worn this season. "Coilarleae" t dees not mean cut out at all; the collar la 3 simply left off and the top of the blouse r comes closely around the base of the s throat. In the blouse made like the one t pictured a high stock made of matching j lace may be basted when occasion de mands a more formal style of neck dreest tag. This pretty blouse is of white linen, , with a dainty embroidered design introduced below a simple yet effective neck I and shoulder trimming of lace. The sleeve i with a puff set In at the center Is a new 3 feature. e No. 2?A Marquise Blouse. AS will be observed, the design of this little waist Is very simple, the greater part of the elaboration being In the sleeves rather than in the blouse itself. The lace strapping across the upper part of the sleeve, with Irish crochet ! roses at the ends of the straps of lace, makes a very pretty trimming. The sleeve is puffed at the elbow?another entirely II new feature. The lace strapping and - crochet roses also appear on the front of - the blouse between the two motifs of emrIOUSEWIF e stiff, and enough more flour to make n a soft douerh to roll. Cut with plain or > fancy cutters, and bake In a moderate # oven. Maple Cup Puddings. One cupful of maple sirup, one cup-* ful of milk, one-^ialf cupful of but'* ter, two level teaspoonfuls of baking " powder sifted with two scant cupfuls * of flour. Steam In cups for two hours. ti Maple Indian Pudding. i Moisten two cupfuls of corn meal with boiling water, add one-half cupful of butter, one-half cupful of sugar, one cupI ful of maple sirup, one and one-half cupfuls of milk, one-half teaspoonful of [ salt, one cupful of seeded raisins, onef half teaspoonful of cinnamon and nutmeg mixed, and bake' slowly ;or three e hours. Serve with cream. 0 8 Maple Pie. Line a tin with nice crust and fill with a custard made of one cupful of thick r maple sirup, the juice and grated rind of 1 one lemon, one egg, one teaspoonful of 1 flour. Cover the top when done with a > meringue made of the white of an egg beaten stiff with a tablespoon 'ul ! of powdered maple sugar, and brown slightly. Cabbage Pickle. 't Before the cabbage makes its farewell bow for the season a good pickle can be made to have on hand for using with cold meats during summer. Add to two , gallons of finely chopped cabbage two t quarts good vinegar, three or four chop. ped onions, one-half cup grated horseradish, one tablespoonful each cinnamon, * cloves, allspice, mustard and tumeric. two tablespoonfuls white mustard seed, ! two tablespoonfuls whole black peppers, t three or four Chile or Mexican peppers, ? IBLE5. ' WAISTS | |? fij^; fwjB ^ j?| |Bj^Sp-i2^ ^&4)^ \ y^/Z '> L 1 ^ I iroidered net which are set in at the shoulder. No. 3?Tailored Shirt Waist for Summer. A PARTICULARLY good model is Illustrated In this simple blouse of Ine batiste which is the accepted mrdel 'or street wear with tailored suits of wool or mohair. Material and details of workmanship are fine and the strip of ?mhroiderv sei in between narrow lace insertions is an effective yet refined trimming. This blouse, like all models of * Lhis character, fastens down one side and a pleated frill is set along the fastening. The arrangement of the pearl buttons ta groups cf two is notable. t No. 4?-Typical Russian Blouss. THE woman handy with her needle may easily evolve for herself a gay little summer waist in true Russian styleShe will need for her foundation material coarse Russian crash of rather opan weave: or if this is too heavy for summer wear, linen may be substituted. The embroideries are. of course, in the bold Russian reds, blues and greens, with a touch here and there of black to add character and blend the strong colors. The motifs represent Russian emblems, in which the Greek cress predominates. Tha front of the blouse Is slashed dtwn several inches and then laced together with cord. No. 5?Smart Kodel From Pari*. THIS blouse would command attention wherever worn, both because of Its style and coloring, the fine white French batiste being combined with valenclennes laoe in a creamy tone that verges on the ecru. The pleated lace Jabot, set under overlapping tabs of the batiste, is particularly smart, and the sleeves?rather wider than the past season has shown? have striking cuffs. This blouse Is entirely made by hand and every detail Is infinitely fine. Laundering would be disastrous to such a model, and only a dry cleaning should be used to freshen tbo dainty lace frills. No. 6?Of Japanese Crepe. THE fairy fine Japanese crepes and the white cotton marquisettes are mueh fancied by Parisian women this season, and so thin and sheer are these blouses that usually a silk slip?low-necked and sleeveless, of course?Is required beneath them. This silk also gives a more dressy appearance than that conveyed by a lingerie blouse over a lace-trimmed corset cover. The crepe waist illustrated is made by hand and the embroidered dots are also done by hand, the vest and upper sleeve portions being done on separate pieces of the material, scalloped all around the edge and sewed on along the line of scalloping. Ti. at three red peppers, one-half cupful salt and three-fourths pound brown sugar. Cook an hour or longer and can while hot. Tomato Catsup. If the store of tomato catsup has give* out, as it has a way of doing at this season, you can easily make more to last over until the new tomatoes come. Add to two quart cans of tomatoes one onion cut fine, two tablespoonfuls salt and three tablespoonfuls brown sugar. Cook until quite thick, then take from the fire and strain through a sieve, coarse enough to let the pulp through, but not the seeds. Set back on the stove In a porcelain kettle^ add two tablespoonfuls pure ground mustard, one tablespoonful each ground allspice, pepper and cinnamon, a half teaspoonful cayenne, a teaspoonful each nutmeg and cloves and a pint of good vinegar. Watch and stir often to prevent scorch. Seal tight while hot and this will keep for years If da* lred. EMMA PADDOCK TELFORD. A Prosaic Remark. #<*T?HBRE would perhaps bo fewor dl* vorces," said Mr*. F. 8. Banco, treasurer of the New Tork Aseoclat on Opposed to Woman Suffrage, 'if men and women looked on marriage tn a more re? mantle light. "Two business msti were conversiac over their luncheon of oeflee and pie. The older man had just boon aiarrlsdL He was telllnc his friend how happy lw was. And he around up with the ecstatic cry: " 'And, George, what puts ma In the seventh heaven Is that her first has hand's clothes fit me like the paper an Aha wall.' "