Evening star. [volume], May 14, 1910, Page 4, Image 22

About Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972

Image provided by: Library of Congress, Washington, DC

                
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A Wedding Dress Worth
Bride's Flower Embroi
Few Jewels Perir
Dove-Gray Trc
WO weddiugg in
April were of such
l|?f v\ importance that
Ja] . ^ jrv ya they set the styles
TH t ^ *n brW?* raiment
1|H ^ fci and accessories for
^ another six months
^ P^'Vg' at least. One of
SBfi 5; \| these weddings was
? J that of Miss Mar?
?g garet Iselin early
in the month; the
other was the
bridal of Miss Marjorie Gould, at the
fashionable St. Bartholomew's, where, it
is said, UUO dressmakers, unable to se
The Modi
IZSSTEAnQ
____^
IT is a question whether the flaxenhaired
little fraulein who through
long years of patient economy
hoards up a store of sturdy house
linens in a carved chest against the
day of her possible bridal takes any more
real pleasure in her belongings than does
the American maid who accumulates
these treasures within a few weeks of
her actual wedding day.
Tradition and established custom demand
that the bride shall come to her
new home well equipped with a store of
household linens, and usually the silver
service to be used by the young pair is
the gift of a relative of the bride. Each
piece ot table silver, as well as each towel,
sleet and pi.ce of table napery. is
marked with the initials of the bride's
r-aiden name. It is considered exceedingly
poor taste to have the groom's initials
on either table silver or house
lin?ns.
There is a custom now in this extravagant
era of gift-making upon every possible
provocation for tlie friends of the
bride-to-be to bestow upon her. after the
teacup donation wuk.li inarka the anIT
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t a Small Fortune?The
idered in Her Gown?
utted?A Typical
>usseau Frock.
cure admission within the church, fought
and pushed in hysterical frenzy to obtain
glimpses of the bridal party and the assembled
guests, who, of course, represented
New York's wealthiest and most
fashionable set. HO
Miss Gould's wedding, besides being bo
marked by utmost elegance in every mi
smallest detail, was notable also for the ^
many touches of sentiment which proved
the depth of character and winning womanliness
of the beautiful young bride,
who is the favorite, not only of fortune, sa
but of all of those with w liom she comes sjr
in contact. Orange blossoms dominated ther
bridal. She wore them in her veil
and they caught up the lace on her skirt. ov
The bridal bouquet was of orange bios- co
pr?/v r.?
^the OLD 7iri
-JLZZXE/Y CZ?E&
nouncement of her engagement and be- j.o
fore the sending of the substantial wed- ha
dirig presents later, a "shower" of house- th
hold needs In the way of napery, towels, re
apr? r8, pincushions and all sorts of
housekeeping conveniences which are
fashioned from linen or cotton material.
*
* *
The intimate girl friends of the brideto-be
arrange the shower for her. A
lunch or tea party is planned, and on
this occasion the practical gifts, daintily
wrapped, are presented. All sorts of
original ways of presenting the shower
are devised. Sometimes there is a verii
ble shower of packages from a paper
bag suspended from the celling, and
which the little bride breaks with a long
stick at the stipulated moment. Often the
dainty packages are brought in on a
tray, or are piled about the recipient s
place at the lunch table, and she must,
of course, open each with her own hands
and read the appropriate quotations or
good wishes Inclosed with the gift to
the assembled company.
A pretty way to present the shower
packages is to have each one tied by
a long ribbon from one of the points of
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a, large uinmt'iiu ui paiucui ??***v **
su-pended over the table, the gift of the I
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Plenty of Lingerie
in the i
ins and the ushers wore orange bowei
utonnieres. Even the dainty brides
lids in their frocks of pule blue veilec
th pink carried bouquets of the sym
lie flower mixed with pink rosebuds.
v
* *
riie wedding dress was of ivory whit<
tin charnieuse. which swept in heavy
nple folds about the girlish figure fron
roat to hem. The sleeves came fai
er the hands, and there was a rega
urt train from the shoulders. A twelve'
SjlOfVEUQ
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stess being hung on the umbrella
ndle. When the time comes to present
e gifts tiie umbrella may be slowl)
vc /ed on the cord which holds it t<
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IINAMK TAB1.K I.IA'KN WITH HAND
EMBROIUEHKU MONOGRAM.
p chandelier over the table, and eaci
i kage removed in turn by the happj
tie bride-to-be. An embroidered luncl
>th presented recently to a prospective
ide was packed, in its tissue and rib.
n wrappings, in a flat pasteboard box
ch as tailors use: and every Inch oi
e box was covered with clippings, ad
rtl ements, squibs, jokes, quotatioiu
d sketches pertinent to the occasion
uc'.i merriment was caused when this
glily decorated gift was passed around
d the lieautiful gift within was dub
predated by its recipient.
* *
\ shovvc. sift ma> be anything fron
real cluny dinner cloth down to s
intz laundry bag, but, whatever It is
must r* present some special though
individual handiwork' of the giver
ind-embroidcred linens are alwayi
pedally acceptable to the housewife'
-be and the woman who can do initial
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Dresses
Summer Trousseau
r inch flounce of priceless duchess point
- was draped on the skirt, and all around
I the Brussels net veil went a six-inch bor
der of the same lace. The dignity and
richness of this wedding costume could
scarcely have been surpassed.
Miss Margaret Iselin's wedding gown,
also of ivory satin, was different in style,
5 but equally beautiful in design. Margnc,
rites?the bride's particular flower?were
i embroidered by hand all over the sailn,
r the embroidery at the foot of the skirt
and on the train being particularly heavy
1 and beautiful. A tunic of white chiffon
- was also embroidered with marguerites.
ing, scalloping and hemstitching may
offer a really handsome gift at small expense.
Several suggestions along this line are
offered in the illustrations. The damask
tablecloth with half a dozen dinner napkins
to match is a superb gift. Tablecloth
and napkins should be exquisitely
hemmed by hand and the initials should
be beautifully embroidered over a well
stuffed foundation. The photograph shows
t how the monogram is placed across the
t corner of each napkin. Two monograms
, are used on the tablecloth, so placed
. that they coine diagonally opposite each
other ten or twelve inches from the
corners of the table. A luncheon set, including
a square lunch cloth and half a
dozen juiDkins. hemstitched and mono
firammod, also makes a most acceptable
girt.
The lunch cloth and doilies illustrated
an- especially dainty In design. The photograph
shows two doilies folded renter
to center showing the corner patterns
done in eyelet work and the daintily
hand-sea I loped edge. Butcher's linen of
a finely woven, not too heavy, quality
should be selected for a lunch set of
this sort, and most resourceful embroiderers
will be able to copy the simple eyelet
pattern shown, and arrange the scalloped
edge by the simple and familiar
device of drawing around spool ends.
Hand-einbroidered bed linen is the delight
of the dainty housekeeper, and such
belongings cost a substantial sum when
purchased in the shops. A pair of linen
sheets with pillow cases to match may
bo bought and finished with hand scalloping
and hemstitching at home, or the
linen may be bought by the yard and
made up entirely by hand. Only one end
of the sheets is scalloped?the end, of
course, which is to be turned down over
the blankets at the top of the bed. A
deep hem Is first laid with hemstitching,
and the scallops at the edge are worked
through the two layers of linen. Such a
set of bed linen will last the housewife
many years and will always be a treasured
possession.
*
* lib
More homely, but very acceptable, are
sifts of sewing and kitchen aprons, iron
r holders, ten cozies and the many sorts of
i lags which every housekeeper needs.
; Shower aprons may, of course, be of
sturdy gingham in sternly practical style,
\ but it is safe to say that the little bride
will cherish much more dearly the gay
affair of pink gingham, made in coquetJ
tish style to cover her from neck to hem,
and provided with pockets, and a becom}
ing turned-down collar attractively feath
erstitched. Frivolous dialing dish aprons
' of lawn, lace and fluttering ribbons are
also included in shower suggestions.
The modern maid does not boast an ancient,
carved chest, like the thrifty Cler,
men fraulein. but a very satisfactory substitute
Is provided in the new tiered linen .
1 chests of mahogany. These are arranged
so that when the dainty doilies, centert
pieces and other choice linens are laid
within, the tiers may be pushed in so
i that the chest forms a compact and at
tractive side table for the dining room.
If the donators of the bridal shower
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rden Party Hat
of Straw and Lace
The elbow sleeves were of old poin
Iruped over the arm, and the bridal vei
was an heirloom affair of point late.
The tunic, used so much this season, i
riftpn seen 4111 ivedilins? pmrns tm/l 1hp?
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tunics are usually bordered with peai
trimming or are edged with heavy em
broidery, small weights in white sill
casings being set underneath to make th
cliiiTon fall in straight lines. The satii
skirt is also firmly weighted down by i
deep facing of white broadcloth to mak
the material trail richly over the floor.
*
* *
A beautiful wedding gown is illustrated
and this model, with its transparent yok
and sleeves, is especially well adapte<
for a June wedding. Hand embroidery, i
used also on this gown, the embroiderei
bodice beLng draped most gracefully
above the net guimpe. T'lain net. shirrei
as in this instance over cords, is ii
better taste with bridal satin than i
figured iace?unless the lace be indubi
tably real. The skirt of the weddini
gown shown falls in simple, rich fold
from waist to hem. And, by the way
though the high-waisted empire model i
always most beautiful in a wedding cos:
tume, just now this high waist is ii
particular disrepute?having only latel;
gone out of fashion?and the high natura
are able to afford it. a very charmin
method of bestowing the gifts is to pae
them in one of the splendid ward rob
trunks, which are veritable wardrobes 1
themselves, making the handsome truni
a part of the gift. Such a trunk ha
snace for a dozen Browns n nrl wran.
packed on swinging racks, so that wlie
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SHEETS AND Pll-I.OW SLIPS SCAL
LOPKU AND HEMSTITCHED.
tiie trunk stands on end each garmen
hangs separately. There are also drawers
for shirt waists and lingerie, com
partments for shoes, parasols and corsets
and a roomy box with cushions to whicl
the hats may be pinned.
There lias been a tendency to rais
the waist line a trifle at the bust, bu
it Is hard to tell if it will beconn
general.
Stains on blankets or any other woolei
goods may be removed by using a mix
tore of equal parts of glycerine and yoll
of egg. Spread it on the stain and alloy
it to'stay there for half an hour or more
Then curefully wash it off.
Tailor-made gowns of silk are more it
evidence than ever before. Several strik
ingly handsome weaves in heavy silk, spc
chilly designed for these suits, have bee*,
brought out within tlit- past few weeks.
Flowered mull draped as a scarf on <
child's hat is extremely dainty and ef
fective. A tiny gold cord laced back ant
forth over the scarf and litilshed at tin
side with loops adds to this fitting trim
ming.
isfflMM
waistline is emphasized in the wedding
gown, as in all other costume*.
The plain bridal veil of filmy white
tulle is always the most becoming, and
the bride who covets the impossible
privilege of wearing a priceless real lace
at her wedding should console herself
with the knowledge that real lace veils
are always hard to arrange gracefully
and are almost invariably unbecoming.
Seven or eight yards of tulle?or bridal
illusion, a? the shopkeeper oddly calls it
?are required for a veil, and no matter
what economy is practiced elsewhere,
nnvthinrr hnf a clrlmnv wpdfUnff' vaII Tho
tulle is not cut. but is gathered to a
circle of light wire to fit over the top of
the head, and the wreath of orange
dowers or whatever else forme the ornament
Is sewed carefully in place. When
placed on tho head this circular wire and
wreath may be pinned carefully to the
hair. The front of the veil should fall
just below the wai3t in front?not far
enough to interfere with the hands and
bouquet?and should sweep to the very
end of the train at the back. When
spread out over the train, the last thing
before the ceremony takes place, some
one clips away the bottom of the veil
so that it will cover the train evenly
and gracefully, and it may be caught
here and there with pearl-headed pins.
*
* *
The wedding bouquet must always be
white, excepting in the case of a widow
who remarries; then any favored flowers
may be carried. Most brides stipulate in
favor of lilies of the valley, and these
dainty flowers seem to have a specially
symbolical sentiment for wedding use.
Sometimes the lighter flowers are mixed
with white bridf- roses?as in the case
of Miss Gould's bouquet, in which orange
blossoms and bride roses were intermingled.
Miss Jselin carried white lilacs.
Gr oh ids are the ultra-fashionable flowers?if
any bride would care to consider
fashion when choosing her wedding blossoms?but
nobody really loves orchids.
They are weird, wonderful and frightfully
expensive, but sentiment they have
not.
Charming wedding bouquets which are
a compromise botween the new shower
effect and the old-fashioned nosegay sire
just now the fad. White roses form the
center of this bouquet, and these roses,
stiffly bunched together, are surrounded
by a border of vailey lilies, outside these
there being a fringe of maidenhair fern.
The nosegay is backed by the old-fashioned
lace paper and each little flower
spray, depending on white moire ribbon,
imtudes lily of the valley and fern.
Occasionally one meets with a bride
who abjures the conventional bouquet
and carries a prayer book. An innovation
this winter was the carrying of a scarlet
leathtr prayer book with an otherwise
conventionally snow-white wedding tjil.t
This red prayer book was a feature of
the Logan-De tfincay wedding, an international
affair, where. strangely
enougii, the usual order was reversed,
and the bride ?was in moderate circumstances,
whiie the groom was enormously
rich.
*
* *
Tradition demands that tiie bride shall
go to the uiter with no ornaments save
her beauty. Stretching a point, conventionality
has permitted pearls?and one
exception in any kind of jewels, representing
the groom's gift. Here was displayed
one of Miss Marjorie Gould's evidences
of sentiment. She wore with her
bridal robes various pieces of jewelry?
gifts from those near and dear to her?
in defiance of tradition and acoeDted cus
torn. There was a diamond-studded
watch hung on a chain of pearls, the
gift of her mother; a sapphire ring from
the bridegroom, a diamond bracelet and
a diamond brooch, remembrances from
other near relatives. Miss lselin with her
rvedding costume wore a double string
of superb diamonds, one strand encircling
.. the throat and the other lying on the
bosom of her gown.
The costume in which the bride leaves
^ her father's home for the first stages of
her wedding trip is popularly supposed to
be a traveling suit, but few brides would
Z care to wear the dainty costume designed
for this auspicious occasion on a dusty
railroad train. The going-away gown is
usually a delectable costume, whicii later
on does duty as an afternoon calling
gown.
One of the fashionable brides of the
spring started on her honeymoon in a
costume of lavender cloth, made RusI,
sian fashion with a hip-length coat
e drawn in a< the waist by a patent leath,
er belt and opening in front to show a
huge, fluffy jabot of point de Paris lace,
s The hat was of lavender straw with twoj
shaded violet ostrich plumes.
I
r, A love of a little going-away frock was
a, worn by a little, bride of last week. This
- was of dove gray foulard with a whites
dotted pattern aud the. skirt had two de
s lightful old-timey pleated ruffles, one set
s at the knee and the other at the bottom
- of the skirt. There was also a folded
o sash of the foulard, one end being drawn
y through a silver buckle and falling in a
.1 long tab to the knee at one side of the
k Burning Scents.
e A pretty gift and desirable article for
? the house Is a little brazier in which pows
ders of different odors can be burned.
The latter can he prepared at home, and
" will serve to perfume a room and act as
deodorants in cases of illness.
These scents are usually small squares
or cubes which burn slowly, and are combined
with charcoal and some sort of
gum to hold them together. Sometimes
rose water is made into a paste with these
ingredients: One ounce each of gum benzoin
and nitrate of potassium, one-half an
ounce each of cascarilia and-liquid styrax,
three-eighths of an ounce of gum tragaeanth,
three-quarters of an ounce of olibanum
(liquid) and ten ounces of charcoal.
The powders should be mixed evenly and
the gums reduced to dust. Rose water is
then added until a paste is formed stiff
enough to mold the mass into balls. This
compound is put away to dry.
Another odor, also sweet and spicy, is
made from two ounces each of olibanum
and benzoin, one-half dram each of oils
caraway, sandal, rhodium and geranium,
one-half ounce of nitrate of potassium and
one pound of powdered charcoal.
The tragacanth and nitrate are dissolved
together, before the other ingredients
are added. This must dry before
using.
Extremely simple, and more suitable as
u deodorant, is a combination of powders
Consisting of half an ounce wach of olibanum,
cascarilia. cloves, cinnamon, benzoin
and thyme. These are to be well
mixed and kept in a tightly closed jar.
_ To use, the powder is thrown on hot
metal, a shovel answering the purpose.
Sweet scented sticks, which are not dift
fic-ult to make, take an ounce each of sandal
wood and gum benzoin, three-quarters
of an ounce of olibanum and half an
ounce ^acli of cascarilla, cinnamon, cloves
and nitre, as w?ll as three and one-half
ounces of powdered charcoal and one
ounce gum tragacanth. All the ingredients
are powdered and mixed, then made
into a paste with 'ose water. They are
e shaped in little sticks and will burn slowt
ly when dried. >
e Few persons know that a room may be
deliciously scented by putting a lew drops
of any perfumed oil in a basin of boiPng
1 water. For example, three drops of iav.
ender oil to a pint of water Is a good prof
portion. The water must be boil "g in orv
der to make steam and the oil must be
dropped in slowly, then perfume is thrown
oft. Any scent one choos?s can be used in
this way. Too great a quantity of oil will
create a rank flavor.
1 MARGARET Ml XT FIR.
i Motifs of net rich in bead embroidery
aio to be found in Hie shops in a wide
range < f'colorings. These make decidcdi
ly smart trimming for a handsome gown.
- Of course it is prwdblo for the woman
1 with time at her disposal to fashion sim3
liar trimmings at home at small cost, but
- It does take time, to say nothing of artistic
ability, to do it well.
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back. On the bodice the foulard was
crossed fichu fashion over the bust and
ail around the edge of the iicliu went a
two-inch knife pleating of the silk. The
sleeves had similar pleated frills at the
edge, over pleated cream lace, and the
guimpe also was of cream val. With this
pretty fro.'k were worn gray silk gloves
embroidered in self color, and a big black
hat trimmed with tea roses. There is
more and more tendency toward dispensing
with sticky kid glove wear in sultry
summer weather and substituting the
cool, dainty, embroidered glotes, which
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gioves really cost very little less than
kid, and are infinitely more comfortable.
They come with self-colored embroideries
and various dainty color combinations
and two-tone effects.
The real traveling suit will be, of
course, a serviceable and not conspicuous
affair of dark serge, a smart shepherd
cheeked worsted or one of the light and
cool English mohairs, which are ideal for
summer traveling. This suit will be
made with a skirt that escapes the
ground and a hip-length jacket in rather
mannish tailored style, and with it will
be worn simple blouses of fine batiste
or mulf, or a dainty little blouse of silk
or chiffon matching the suit material.
* * \
Another suit of linen should be provided
in the June trousseau, and this
costume will be rather dressy in character.
A very attracive Russian 'suit of
buff linen is illustrated, and the border
trimming on this model, combining eyelet
embroidery with soutache braiding, is
particularly interesting. With this verysmart
little suit is shown one of the new
draped turbans?a model of biscuit-colored
straw which is wound around the
head, or, more accurately, the turban
frame, one end of the straw being bordered
with black velvet and thrust
through a massive dull gilt buckle.
The summer trousseau is made up
largely of summery costumes, and appropriate
liats and parasols play an important
part also. Several dainty white
NOTES AND
A Parasol to Match the Gown.
NOT every woman knows that it is possible
to have a parasol built from
Iter frock materia! at a very reasonable
cost. It is often well nigh impossible to
the right shade, but most of the big shops
will have u parasol built on a handle
which one may select one's self for front
three to live dollars. The parasol is so
Important an adjunct in the complete
harmony of the toilet that it should l?e
carefully selected?quite as carefully as
the hat, in fact.
Traveling Bags Lined With Pongee.
THE handsomely fitted leather traveling
bag may bo lined to match one's
traveling coat if desired. Many of the
new bags, instead of satin or leather
linings, arc finished inside with daintily
colored pongee, and the fittings are of
the new imitation ivory substance thut
Recipes.
Spaghetti Pudding.
Cook four ounces of spaghetti for from
twenty to thirty minutes in boiling salted
water, drain it. and place half of it in a
pie dish, grate two ounces of cheese, and
sprinkle some of it over the spaghetti,
slice four or five small tomatoes and
place them on the spaghetti, sprinkling
them with cheese, pepper and salt, and
finish with the remainder of the spag
netti. placing tne resi 01 mr iihhk ?. ?!
the top. Pour over this half a pint of
milk and cover the dish with a plate;
cook in a moderate oven.
Stuffed Cucumber.
Peel a large cucumber, remove a narrow
piece from the side, and scoop out
the seeds with a teaspoon. Pill the cavity
with a forcemeat made of lqbster and
salmon, repiace the piece and bind it
round with narrow tape. Line the bottom
of a saucepan with slices of bacon,
put' the cucumber upon it and then two
or three more slices; cover the whole
with nh-ely flavored stock, season with
salt and pepper and simmer gently till
the cucumber is sufficiently cooked, take
It out. thicken the gravy with a little
Hour and butter and serve very hot.
Spanish Omelet.
Heat four eggs slightly, just enough to
blend yolks and whites, add four tabic?
spoonfuls milk and one teaspoonful salt,
and one-eighth teaspoonful pepper. Ibit
two tablespouufuls of butter in hot omelet
pan; when melted, turn in the mixture; as
it cooks, prick and pick up with a fork
until the whole is of creamy consistency.
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Smsrt Linen Sail,
in Russian Style
dresses should bo provided, and the simple
jet beautifully designed marquise
frocks of fine lawn with trimmings of insertion
or lace and embroidery arc espc-tally
satisfactory.
The lingerie frock illustrated is a rattier
elaborate model for garden party wear,
and shows an einbroiderj- tunic draped
over it i?etticoat of val face fiouuees and
eutre deux of puffed batiste. Pale violet
moire ribbon catches the tunic in at the
hack of the skirt just above the short
train, and the hat is trimmed with violet*
and a sweeping paradise aigret. The
parasol also has violet markings on a
white dresden ground.
New Photograph Frames.
TJTHITE imitation ivory dresser orna"
raents are more fashionable just
now than the massive silver brushes and
toilet implements lately in vogue. The
dainty white articles also are particular ly
attractive with dainty light-colored
bureau rovers, and may also be kept
clean much more easily than the metal
trimmed articles. To match the trays,
boxes and brushes there are now photograph
frames made of the white substance,
which looks like creamy ivory,
and these frames may also be marked,
like the other articles, with a monogram
or initials.
Hints for Women.
A stamped nightdress of tine nainsook,
read:- for embroidering, is in a daintjpattern.
The sleeves are short and the
neck cut in Dutch round style. The
stamped design is on the breast and edges
of sleeves with additional markings at
waist depth, in the form of slits to he
buttonholed and then threaded with ribbon
Asbestos mats for preserving polished
tables can be bought now to fit any size
dish, from a tumbler mat, five inches In
diameter, to a platter mat, nine by fourteen
inches.
NOVELTIES.
is especially practical for traveling
since it is so easily kept elean. In addition
to tier brush, comb, mirror and various
manicure and other toilet implements,
miladi's dressing bag must contain
a dainty flash of stimulant in case
of sudden indisposition, and a complete
cosmetic outfit. All these articles are
stowed away around the sides of the bag
in shirred i>oekets and understraps. tearing
space in the center for lingerie and
fresh blouses.
With a Velvet Ribbon.
DESTRUCTION of the stocking bee! Is
caused by the pump slipping up and
down. bine the pump along the inside
of the heel with a piece of velvet glued
along the tup of the heel and with the
velvet side to the foot. When using velvet
for this purpose have it either white,
gray, brown or black, according to the
lining of the shoe. 1'se ribbon velvet
wiih its selvage along the top edge of
iho he?-l to avoid a raw edge or the
bulkiness of a turned-in edge.
Place on liotle.- part of range that Jt
may brown quickly underneath. Fold and
turn on hot platter.
Sauce for the Omelet.
t'ut one-half onion in small pieces, aod
two tabiespuont'uls of butter with three
cloves and a small bit of bay leaf. Fry
in the butter until slightly yellow without
browning. Then add one pint of tomatoes
and simmer fifteen minutes or
until the liquid is reduced. Remove the
cloves and bay leaf and season with few
grain? of salt and paprika. Pour around
omelet.
IMPERIAL TOILET SPECIALTIES
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HAIR BALSAM
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Promoter a larurianl growth
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