Newspaper Page Text
A One-Piece rrocKvith Coat to MM.cli "Warm Tlairnelette Garments for SJJhe "Bedtime Eomp _ " ' * * <' Not Forgetting the Hot Schooldays Through Septem ber?Prettiness No More Costly Than Practi ? cal Effects?One-Piece Frocks Best?How . the Little Schoolgirl Wears Her Hair. roominess. There seems room to grow in it, atid this Is a point that should be carefully considered by the mother who makes the children's clothes at home. The ready-made frock, which is pur chased several sizes too large, for eco nomical motives, is apt to fit awkwardly; but the frock made at home may be cun ningly devised with arrangements for let ting out as the season advances. The growing girl does not change much in breadth or shoulder in six months, but in length of skirt and sleeve she makes astonishing strides. The waist should also be arranged so that it may be easily let out. for nothing is worse for the young girl budding into womanhood thin to have her waist constricted by the tight band of an ill-fitting and outgrown frock. 9 ? * Between the pretty little girlhood of I'nlfss one possesses the wherewithal and the lovely young girlhood of to take the liltle daughter to a children's sixteen there is a bleak stretch of awk outfitting shop to he supplied with fresh ward years; years when the small daugh frocks. boots, neckwear. coat and hat. "r seems all hands and feet and long the problem i* bound 10 be more or less 'egs. when teeth are coming out and serious, but th?* burden may be con- growing in, when the charm of childhood stderably lightened by laying plans well 'ias ?on? snd the sweetness of maiden beforehand and setting?so to speak? hood has not arrived. It is in these one.s for.es toother The dressmaker years that the mother flnds h?r N the precious final days of the summer rest be fore the return to town just after Labor day. most mothers look for ward with mis giving and dis couragement to the task of an other wrestle with the semi - yearly dothe* problem Here are a host of lit tle folks, none of them possessing a fSR to their back fit to start school with, and within the measure of a strenuous wwk an adequate wardrobe must be got ten together. Felt Sailors Top "Big Girls the hardest. and dressing the awkward girl,, though the least of her great prob lems, is a very harassing matter. One wdnders how any of us grown folk would feel if in six months she should shoot up six inches in height and be forced to manipulate hands and feet three or four slsea larger than she has been used to. The "awkwardness" of growing girlhood Is grace compared to the pitiable efforts most of us would have to make, in such event, to move, sit and talk with any appearance of ease or naturalness. A consideration that many mothers utterly overlook is the matter of type. One young girl may be adorable in what on another would be most unattractive. One child demands fluffy, frilly things, while an other is at her best in severe, simple lit ? tie garments. Some small girts should be made piquant by their costume; others are adorable in quaint, old-fashioned styles. Even a very homely little girl may be made distinguished and interesting if smartly dressed; and not one little girl in a thousand is really homely?especially when judicially and daintily clothed. ? * * So every mother should consider, first of all, the possibilities of the small daugh ter; the lines of her growing young figure; the most becoming colors and styles to suit her style and her coloring; and the very best way to do her hair. Little girls have very decided ideas about what they or aeamstiess should be engaged some time al cad and definite days fixed upon A list of everything should be made In the leisurely country hours, and one ?hopping trip after the return to town should supply all the fabrics, patterns ?nd sewing materials required Then, with the sewing machine brought up to prime condition with a double soaking with kerosene and machine oil and the services of the little seamstress secured, the jwork should be turned out in a jiffy. It isn't so many years ago since most of us grown women were little girls go ing back to school after a long summer vacation The new start, with new re solves about study, was fobbed of half Its significance if we had to appear that flrat Intereatlne day in an old "let-down" dress of last season when all our mates were togged out In fresh, delightful rai ment with the something new and differ ent. which means so much to a child. * a * Some of the warmest weather of the year cornea In September, and the first school frock will be much more comfort able and appropriate if made of ging ham, linen, or some similar washable material, and this frock may !?e worn, under a long coat, until late in October even on certain days in November. A very charming little frock, made of srrlped silk novelty gingham, is illus trated. linen straps in plain color form ing a simple yet effective trimming, and belt and necktie being of soft .<?ilk. The admirable feature about this frock is its E little heir of all the ages who I makes bis appearance in this I age finds every provision for ^ his comfort and happiness^ and some luxuries which would not have been dreamed of in the preparation for his father's babyhood. Each year tbe little specialty shops which cater to baby's needs exclusively are gaining in number, and the department shops, also, are devoting more space to practical lay ettes and helpful little novelties for the baby's comfort. The dressing of Xhe baby has been reduced to a science, and his babyship should be deeply grateful that the heavy, two-yard skirts have been done away with, and also the ugly swathings of muslin around his tender little wai^t and the aggravating ruffles of starched embroidery which used to tickle his chin and scratch his wrests. The little frocks, petticoats and slips may be of the finest possible material, with trimmings of thread lace and real mechlin; or they may be of fifteen-cent A Wo THAT TUB CREEPING ,ABY TA*?? SPECIAL DELIGHT W. nainsook, with pretty Imitation val frills at neck and wrists; but always they are exquisitely soft and simple, with hand stitches, touches of dainty featherstitch - in* and hemstitching, and the tiniest of lace buttons with little buttonholes beau tifully worked. More elaborate frocks for occasions are made of Paris muslin and pin-dotted Swiss, with insertlngs of real !ace and sprays of fine hand embroidery. The sleeves are set In with fine seam headings, and the deep hem on t?e bot tom of the skirt Is featherstitched or hemstitched. It is wise to make the little dresses in roomy sige, a three-month pattern being selected even for the layette. There Is no telling how big his babyship will be and it fa a pity to have to discard the care fully made dresses because they simply will not go on over chubby arms and shoulders. If made in a little larger size tiny tucks may be set In at armholes and wrists, and there may be a bobbin tape run through a tiny rasing In the neck. When hat>y has grown a bit it will be a very simple matter to let out the little tucks and enlarge the drees or slip. Such trifles as bootees, bibs, fanry sacques and the like are usually furnish ed in plenty by adoring friends and rela tives. The shops are full of these little belongings, both made up and In pattern form, with pretty designs stamped for hand embroidering, and the list includes everything needed for baby's comfort ex cept the most practical garments. Kimono sacques. or nightingales, as they are sometimes called, are very easy to make and no one need be afraid that the young mother will be presented with too many of these little sacques. They soon become soiled and lose their dainti ness after being washed; yet the baby must always be provided with a stock of fresh little jackets to slip on when pre sented to visitors. Thin albatross laid over colored silk and embroidered with blue forget-me-nots or faint pink rose buds matching the silken lining, makes a charming sacque, or plain white or col ored albatross or cashmere may be scal loped and embroidered and used without the lining slip. m * ? A dainty little sacque is made by fold ing the material crosswise and tracing a clfcle. A smaller circle I* cut out for tne neck, a straight cut downy the center forms the front opening, and diagonal cuts half way up in the middle of each quarter segment form the sleeves. All the edges are finished with shallow seal lops marked with a Bpool. the neck open ing being bound with satin ribbon, the ends of which make a bow to fasten the sacque. Narrow ribbons tie the under arm seams and the under-eleeve seams together. A baby pillow la always a welcome gift, and this pillow should be rather small? about nine by twelve Inches?and filled with down. The pillow itself should be made of white muslin and the dainty cover should be provided with small but tons and buttonholes, so that It may be removed for frequent laundering#. The embroidery, of course, should be ex quisitively fine and should be preferably at the edges and on the corners of the slip, so that the little face pressed against the pillow may not be scratched. Three inch squares of sheer lawn, connected by lines of German val lace Insertion, set In horizontally and vertically, make a pretty pillow cover, and in the center of each square there may be embroidered a small spray of forget-me-nots or violets all in pure white, of course. A coverlet to match the pillow will make a charming gift and one that will be much appreciated by the little mother. The coverlet should be made of the same sheer white lawn, but the embroidery may be more elaborate than that on tfie pillow, and the ruffle around the edge will be deeper. The baby's monogram In letters three inches long may lie worked in the center of the cover; or there may be three small Initials set in a medallion of flowers. Through Mits buttonholded at the bottom of the cover should be ruil satin ribbon, a big bow being tied in one corner. ? * * The baby's bassinette is usually made by the mother herself, who loves to drape the dainty lace-trimmed frills over the couch that is Koing to hold her priceless treasure. A very .pretty bassinette is Il lustrated. and such a bed can readily be made by loving mother Angers over the light wicker framework which forms the foundation. The basket top of the frame work is lined with soft silk quilted over layers of cotton, and the outside Is trim med with white net on which are aewed insertions of inexpensive lace. The hood is made of net and silk, shirred over light reeds, and the whole bassinette Is trim med with big ribbon bows?blue for a boy, according to the old tradition, and pink for a girl. The creeping rug Illustrated will be adored by the six or eight months' old baby just beginning to find how many in teresting things there are In the world. The rug may be made of canton flannel, eiderdown flannel or some similar ffebrlc and the hem should be featheratltctoed One etc the "Pretty Hats jTor Toil Wear ?>: ? X::is?:,: ! * J riolisjr* KaKje s a. I ?erviceo/ble KxndcrCprten Suit want to wear, and vice versa?these idea* usually being Influenced by the raiment of the dearest friend, or the other girls In the class at school! but though It is often well to allow the child some latitude in choice for the development of taste and self-expression, in some things the mother must stand firm. There Is no reason why lovely curly hair should be braided and looped up with ribbons, spoiling its curl for the later years when a little natural A "Blue ?er|e School Frock in Crisp Tall Style wavlness will be so valued. The well de veloped little girl of fourteen may not wear the babyish, short frocks of her ethereal intimate friend; nor should the scrawny-necked, sharp-chinned child be permitted the fascinating Dutch necks of her plump mate. Exaggerated ribbon hair bows are not worn now except by the little messenger girls in the department stores. The smartly dressed young girl, whom one sees on 5th avenue, when morning school is over, wears her hair softly braided and tied with a single ribbon at the base of the neck, a shell barrette holding the ends together half way down, from where a loose curl falls to the waist. Sometimes a shell barrette Is used instead of the bow at the neck; but this emblem of young girlhood is too becoming and too pretty ever to be really given up. Hair ribbons are of the best quality ribbon in a soft satin taffeta weave, and are invari ably dark in coloring for school and street wear. Black hair ribbons are preferred by French mothers, the touch of somber color adding a certain chic to dainty frocka; but navy blue is a color most attractive and most becoming to young faces. Bright scarlet hair ribbons are worn by smaller girls?under their teens?with the brightly plaided wool frocks which are always so attractive in first fall days. ? * * The growing girl's hair should be kept clean, soft and fluffy by frequent sham poos, especially during school days, when the dust and flying chalk of the school room tend to make the light hair dingy and colorless. The front hair may be parted and slightly rolled at the sides, or a moderate pompadour may be allowed, but the locks should not be cut Into any semblance of a "bang." In extreme youth the hair grows healthily and strongly around the forehead and temples in a soft Qofcton Dresses- may be "Worn TJxrotigli September little fringe of young, curling hairs, and this little vigorous fringe above the un manned brow of childhood ia a very beau tiful thing. The arrangement of the h?1r should always show the brow and this lit tle fringe, which is never apparent with older years. One-piece frocks in the type known a* Russian are the favorites for everyday use Just now, and there are charming little frocks with bodices cut on the seam lea* "peasant" model and set above dou ble skirts of circular cut which are very graceful. The cut of the neck gives all the character to a child's frock, and tbia cut should be rather high In rounded or shallow square Dutch atyle; the low bodice worn over an expanse of white guintpe not being as smart now as the small yoke appearing above a rounded out or squared neck. Very smart turn down linen collars with flowing ties, something like the neck dressing of the small boy, are worn with school frocks by little girls, but the dressy lace collars should be kept for "dress-up" wear, lace not being considered In good taste on the little girl's morning or school costume. ? / * ? Band trimmings in very pretty deqdgna and colprlngs may be obtained fct trifling prices, and these with pipings of plain colored silk, fancy buttons and smart necktie* and t?Mts make Just the Hghr trimmings for the school drdss. : 'Effects should be kept' simple, for a great de4l I of elaboration and hand work are out of place on costumes which wlflf sel hard wear and tear and which are bound to be outgrown or outworn In a very short time. The checked and striped mohairs make excellent school dresses for girls and ?splendid school and kindergarten suits for the small boy. This material is eaaily cleaned and presssd, does not show dust or soli traces and makes up prettily with dashes of plain color. Pipings over cords of colored silk with a smart neck tie to match trim a mohair dress charm ingly. A delightful little school frock of checked blue and-white mohair is waiting In the window of a children's outfitting establishment on Mh avenue*4 *hm? lucky UK 1*> girl. The tnortH on* piece. with a very broad Uu* at fropt aO<l im'-k; "tlifoe box frMat* .*?icnd ing out at the si?les. Just pelww the. a Hint Hnf." In square tAbs, whlclr'are'Kaeioned ovet a stitched belt of taffeta yftix big butt??nii covered with bfuP ullfi'orna ment the fr.?m b?'* pleat. two button* on each sleeve above a ttirn ed-bat k cuff of white iirv?M ItaAUinr stitch*d alth blue. A turndown l?utch collar of the featherstltched linen Is fin ished with a loosely ti?*d bow of blue alik Unen c<4lars and cuff* of this sort have to be renewed cach day, but they are ex tremely amart and are really no more trouble than the lawn gUimpe which must a lac he making frequent vlalts to the laundress. ? ft * Illustration* offet more suggestions to the mother than columns of words could do. Two attractive frocka are shown; one a coat-and-dre*a model for a young girl in her teena and the other "piece serge dress for a smaller girl "N*e coat-and-dresa model Is very graceful and the belted tunic effect over tha skfrf'ls especially smart juat now A simple braiding trims coat and bodice moat eft fectlvely The one-piece frock Is at aerge and might l?e developed In any color This dress buttons from neck to hem and may be presaed very easily. The collar may he worn without a guimpe er with a white lawn guimpe when preferred- The buttoned cuffs allow the sleeve# to to* turned back. With thia frock Is shown a Jaunty Napoleon hat of moire silk, with pleated rosettes. An ideal school hat is the new felt sailor, which has a graceful tilt upward at the back to show the hair ribbon and long braid of hair. Thia shape la easy to put 011 and off, and yet in aptte of Its simplicity has a daah and good style which are very noticeable. The gmaller girlie wears a pretty hat In mushroom shape, trimmed simply, but charmingly, with pleated velvet ribbon and wide satin ribbon. The kindergarten laddie's suit of gray atriped mohair la 'particularly practical and attractive, and is made very smart by a gray leather belt and embroiderte* tn old blue on collar and shield. The little folk in pajamas and bath robe are not old enough for arhool. but their jolly bedtime toga are particularly Interesting becauae of the printed pic tures of flowers and birds on their outing flannel garments. A Picnic StOve for Use in the Woods. AUTOMOBIL.I5 folk fcnow how to make themselves comfortable, and many are the oontrlvances provided for their convenience when a picnic by the way side Is planned. While ordinary folk are fuming and sneesing over a picnic fire made of dried twig* laid crosswise within a ring of stones, these canny automobile picnickers have a business-like little Iron stove which burna charcoal and which will cook a rasher of delicious bacon, fry po tatoes, boll coffee and do other desirable things In no time at all. Tha fuel for the Uttle stove la carried along In a small tin 2>all which sets Inside the stove, the latter as big around as an ordinary frying pan and as high. above .the ground aa your hand. ' < w Dariefcijf Fleaagnter. l?Hlf quite so ^ <>?J?rtng." (nested a busy Uttle house mother, 'as doing the weekly darning alone. I always try to have a pleasant companion to chat with while I am mending and folding up neatly the plla of stockings that oome from the laundry. When tonguea as well aa fingers fly, the hated task is much more bearable than when thoughts only accompany the pa tient needle." Another way to make darn ing easier is to use. Instead of the coarft* cotton, the soft, pliable darning silk which comes on little spools for mending silk hose. It la a trifle more expensive than the cotton, but makea the work so much more pleasant that It is well worth the few extra pennies. Corn and Chicken Natural Affinities. ?4 - V m Menu, Sunday, August 21. Breakfast. Molded Orcal with Blueberries, Corn Fritter*. Tomatoes. Coffee. Dinner. Watermelon. Sweet Potatoes. Pear Trifle. Brunswick Stew. Cucumbers. Coffee Frappe. Supper. Dutch Sandwiches. Potato Salad. Sliced Peaches. Sponge Cake. Iced Tea. "I F corn Is all right, the country will be all right," said James A. Patton. the big wheat and cot ton speculator. Just before sail ing for Europe a few weeks ago. 'Upon the corn crop depends the price of food, especially meat; for hogs and cattle are great consumers of corn, and if we can't raise com we can't raise stock." Corn is the vital crop. Corn and chicken are natural afllnltiea. whether the chicken is still "on the hoof" or decapitated, plucked and ready for cooking in any one of a dozen de lightful ways. Chicken a la Baltimore. Take two small spring chickens, split open down the back as for broiling, wash thoroughly outside, and wipe the inside with a damp cloth. Cut into joints, sea son well with salt and pepper, dip into beaten egg, then into fine and well dried bread crumbs, lay in a well buttered bak ing pan inside up, pour a little melted butter over them and bake in the oven for twenty-five to thirty minutes. Serve with cream sauce made from the drip pings and garnish with thin crisped slices of bacon and tiny corn oysters. To make the latter, grate a dozen ears of tender green corn, taking care to get none of the cob. Add to the grated corn two A SUITABLY DAINTY COUCH FOR HIS HIGHNESS THE BABY. and weighted. The printed cotton ani mals and dolls which may be purchased for a few cents at any toy store, are ap pliqued to the rug with colored cotton in "catstltch." The up-to-date baby ia not wheeled out by maid-of-all-work, Bridget, In a clean white apron. His special nurse, a learned young person up in all the scientific meth ods of nursing, ia ciad in a correct and ?mart uniform which is refined and yet distinctly shows her calling. Uniforms of this sort are provided by the Nurses' Out fitting Association and mothers may ob tain much useful information on the car* of infants by conferring with them. The nurse wears in the house a spotless gown of white duck, made with msny gores so as to eliminate all gathers. In the street she wears a long dark blue or gray coal with a circular cape over the shoulders and a little blue or gray bonnet with whits lawn ties and a ruchs around the face. large tablespoonfuls flour, the yollu of four esKi well beaten, and salt and pepper to season. Mix well. Have ready a pan with equal portions of lard and butter piping hot. Take up a spoonful of. the batter about the sise of an oyster and drop from the spoon Into the hot fat. Brown quickly. The mock oysters should be nearly an inch thick. Bryn Mavr Corn Cake. Add to one pint grated corn one-half cupful flour, one-quarter cuprul milk, two eggft, whites and yolks beaten separately, and a dessert spoonful melted butter. Add the yolks to the corn, then the milk, flour and a teaspoonful of salt. Beat well, t*ien fold in lightly the stiffly whipped whites of the two eggs and bake on a hot and well greased griddle. ________ v Chicken Gumbo. Fry a young chicken brown and boil one pint of okra fifteen minutes, adding after the first ten minutes four ears of com, cutting the kernels from the cob. bat cooking the cobs with the okra. in or der to get their juices. Put the chicken in a porcelain lined pot, adding corn, okra, four large tomatoes peeled and sliced, one pod sweet, red pepper and a cupful gravy. Add a pint of boiling water and cook gently for an huur. Take out the chicken Oones. strain, then add a quart of rich milk, a pint of fine white bread crumbs, a large cupful of the chick en breast, finely chopped, and if desired extra good, one cupful blanched almonds ground fine. Bring quickly to a boil, stir ring y-equently, and serve at once. Nantucket Corn Pudding. Select firm, fresh ears of corn, medium sise and with a keen-bladed knife score each row of kernels, then scrape out the pulp, leaving the hulls on the cob. To the pulp taken from a dosen ears allow a pint and a half rich milk, four beaten eggs, a teaspoonful salt, a half teaspoon ful pepper, and if the corn lacks sweet ness two or three tablespoonfuls sugar. Bake in a well buttered deep earthen dish for two hours in a slow, steady oven. Corn Chowder. Cut into pieces a quarter pound fat salt pork, place in a kettle and fry until crisp. Take out the meat, leaving the fat, add to it one white onion sliced and let it cook until tender and lightly colored. Then add two cups diced raw potatoes, one pint corn pulp, a cup sliced tomatoes and a stalk celery cut into bits. If celery is uot in season celery salt can be sub stituted. Meanwhile have the corncobs cooking in a pint of hot water. Cover the other vegetables with water and put over the fire. As soon as the potatoes are tender pour in a pint of hot milk and the water strained off the cobs. Cook a table spoonful flour and two tablespoonfuls butter together as for white sauce, and stir into the chowder. Simmer Ave min utes. put one cupful broken crackers in the chowder and serve hott Corn Fritters. Cut the kernels from .-four good sised ears young corp. Add two beaten eggs, hslf a teaspoonful salt, a saitspoonful pepper, a cup of flour pressed down and heaped a little, and a cup cold milk. Jlave ready a hot frying pan well greased and drop in the batter by spoonfuls. There should be enough for a dosen. Do not let the fritters touch. Cook in re lays, frying on one side four minutes, then turn and fpr the other. These are delioious as an accompaniment for chicken or to serve for breakfast. Corn Soup. Score the kernels of nice corn and press out the pulp until you have ft full pint. Add to the pulp a pint of water and rook' ten minutes. Cover the cobs With another pint of water in a separate kettle and cook the ?WW length of time. Meanwhile add a siloed onion to a quart of milk and bring to the boiling point. Add to the corn that has cooked ten minutes and cook twenty minutes longer. Strain and press through a puree aieve, add the water strained from the -cobs, then thicken with a tea spoonful flour stirred smooth with a tablfspooaful butter.: Cook a few min utes longer, add a teaSpoonful flue minced parsley with Half and pepper to taste, and a cupful crouton* and Berve as hot as possible. Boiled Corn on the Ear in Perfection The great difficulty with many cooka is that they overcook their com. and corn overcooked becomes tough. Select evergreen com. white as snow, plump bodied, with tender green husks, slender stalk and dark brown silk. Strip down the,husks and test Us freshness by pressing the thumb aail in one or two of the kernela. If "the milk flows freely the k of condition. Strip lea vlng t he . ten^pr turning then) ba^rk. i of aiq^rnbbfefc Now twin, the tie with an outvie a kettle. Cover th? corn is in the off the ? nside ones Remove It off w inner "tiusks ba<~ husk and place In corn over with a layer of the outside husks, then pour on cold water to tin depth of the corn, put on the kettle lid and ge\ over a quick (ire. Watch care fully, and after the water has boiled Just five minutes from the time It reaches the boiling point it is done. Serve at once, leaving the Inside husks on or not as preferred. The ears should be folded in a serviette when sent to the table. Boil ing water may be used in place of the cold and the corn boiled exactly eight minutes from the time the bolting point is reached, but It will not be quite so delicloua as with the cold water proceaa. Corn and Tomatoes. Put two tablespocnfuls butter In a fry ing pan, then add two or three onions sliced^, and fry until tender, but net color ed. Add two cupfuls fresh sliced toma toes or their equivalent in canned, and cook until the tomatoes are soft. Season with salt, paprika and a teaspoonful sugar. Add two cupfuls aweet corn pulp cut from the cob, season with salt, pep per and sugar, mix with the tomatoes, add two well beaten eggs, turn into a buttered dish and bake about twenty minutes. Baked C<?rn. Take off the coarse outer huska from young com, turn back the inner and re move the silk. Bring the inner husks back over the end, tie In place and lay in the oven. Bake about twenty minutes. EMMA PADDOCK TELFORD. The Care the Hair