Evening star. [volume], October 15, 1911, Image 78

About Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972

Image provided by: Library of Congress, Washington, DC

                
I
EVENING
GOWNS FOR
DEBUTANTES
mm?-MVMM^
F<">r the youni giri wno is rawing
her bow to society and Its many
little dances, dinners and theater
parties there have been made
special efforts In Paris ateliers to give
charming evening gowns. Emphasis haa
been placed on tulle, mousseUne de sole,
ebHTon and crepe de china
There is a gtrltah simplicity shown to
the models sketched for your b esse ft V,
and if the silk or net fabric* mentioned
da not meet with your ideas at eoet,
thees same frocks can be copied In silk
tonslln, silk and cotton crepes, fine batiste
or flowered lawns.
Look at the first drees that suggests
grandmother, of course without the
cumbersome boopsklrta. You will see
that a straight, easy silhouette Is still
ibe accepted line for dresses. It la of
eWU dotted tulle or net oyer pale pink
ha tin. The top of the full bodice Is cut
to a low, round line and the short kimono
sleeves are stashed on the outer
Around the edge Is a ruffle or circular
collar of lace, under a heading of net.
Three ruffles of lacs trim the skirt, with
pink silk roses placed at Intervals of
from twelve to twenty Inches. A narrow
girdle of pink satin haa a duster
f handmade roses at one aide. Isn't
the whole Idea charming?
The young lady with the fan is weartog
a gown of white chiffon?you oan
make it up In silk muslin, if you wishtrimmed
with ball fringe There is a
crossed fichu effect on the bodice The
fringe edges the flchu and the kimono :
Sleeves. A tunic Is shorter on the left J
side than on the right and Is finished i
nder two pointed panels at the back.
Eall fringe edges this also. A girdle \
and sash of dresden ribbon finishes this
extremely simple evening frock. It is i
very effective when done In plain colors !
also.
The seated figure shows pale rose
crepe de chine In a very attractive
gown. lace trims the pointed top of the
bodice and forms a wide band on the ;
skirt. And now for the unusual! Bright
apphire blue velvet is used for the
band3 on sleeve and skirt and for the j
girdle This model has a train. The
skirt Is straight, and the bodice is fashtoned
over a fitted lining of silk. The
crossed line In front Is still evident.
Behind her Is an excellent idea for
using wide lace The entire bodice Is of
heavy cream-colored lace draped over
a shirred chemisette of moussellne de
oie In a pale apricot shade. The same
forma a foundation for the bodice. The
double skirt of moussellne has Its upper
part edged with lace and the lower one
draped over a sflk skirt of the same
shade. A topaz buckle fastens the girdle
f lace at the side.
A bordered mousseline de sole is
shown in the last design. The kimono
blouse Is covered with the pini flowers.
Its sleeves are half length and edged
with the border. The tunic has a
stitched shaped band at the lower edge.
It Is slashed at the back like a fish's
tail. In this dress there is a high line,
and a girdle of bright blue velvet drops
down at the back in two wide ends
that are slipped under the tunic. The j
girdle fastens at the side In front under
a rose of pink and blue.
Opportunities for using lace, velvet,
bordered goods, fringe and filmy fabrics
ver silk are surely being given these
daye. It la again a season for all; and j
foolish were the woman who will not
avail herself of practical hints from the
great arusts of dress.
Velvet Much Used
STREET costumes of velvet bid for
favor over in the showrooms of j
Paquln. Martial & Armani. Doucet i
and the Callot Soeurs. Always will the
richness of texture and color of velvet ,
appeal to women who lo\e the beau- ]
ttful and the designers show a knowl_
NEV
I mm- v . -
k N. , 'V
ONE phise of this season's millinery
Is the hlgh-erownt-d hat.
It la adorable on the rlgnt
Etonian. it should never he too ntromo.
It can be of many materials and
Fashions and Fads.
i lie fail bat is of black velvet. ,
Prill# have lost none ut their popular.
Uy.
Purs were never so lai*e and to luau*
rious.
I The afternoon frock shows skirts Just
^ttls lunger than we had In the sunt'
BT" a
* ,
~~ Tbr
^a .a
II A . I J
ay.d >*\5 -0''/u
j- n.;
edge of the beautiful and of woman's .
llkea when they emphasise this material
for lata fall and winter.
Street suits show trimmings of fur.
Bahds of It decorate the bottom of
skirts, and In the Instance of slashed skirts?so
much In evidence?the fur extends
up the sides of the opening.
In these slaehed skirts or tunics there
Is used an underskirt of contrasting I
material or color. Broadcloth, chinchilla
cloth, ratine and velvet In a different
weave are favored for the nota
of contrast. IJttle touches of this are
used on the Jackets also. Usually, a
smart set of fur to match the trimming
Is made and sold with the velvet costume.
IT* -SCCXJO
car be attained In different ways. trui
A velvet ehape la conservatively small I are
end has a becoming rolled brim. The higt
hjah crown ? made higher by change- easi
able taffeta ribbon being wrapped hen
Dresses of tulle and silk mull, with Wti
flowered border.-, are charming for de- bioui
butante friM-ks.
Th<
If you would be very up-to-date have gene
the color of the Mttsst;: the paiae us tnal whit<
bf the suit:
?? Ma
Black velvet Will bs w^rn a? much ?* I rum
ev<thl? wlntei combined with satin bro? whit
cade or cloth, or merely corded.
linger skirts?and Just n Tttlo fuller, ootsi
if you would heed tue I'aruUm. mandate, edly
J
pTn
i.1
CRCT.
[it. 1.
^<aS22I2Q Tf&clco
md It. Wired loops of the rlbbor
fastened on the crown and rise ai
i aguin as tba crown. Titles model It
ly trimmed at home. Let the ?ha.p?
i guide you in the construction of ?
lite tulle is to be used extensively ??
ies. chemisettes,and entire gowns.
d ?
p smart tiling to wear with your lin
white blouse Is a skirt of heav;
p satin, tailored and uu'ts ehcrt,
t ~
ny htapk tints* pre trimmed in Whit?
eiiee croWM*, Wflds kftd bowa v
e tulle or malins nre Used.
number of taffcta-covered hate ur
1. and the covered hat will ur.doubt
have a high p'aue to fashion.
flOff,
VNED |
^ /r<sde
i new eh?.pe for the waeoa oh
i The return of the old-faehloned bon- j oo
i net or "eujfar ecoop" l?? decided. Here wl
s | Is a hlgh-crowDad hat that la made over j T1
i a buckram frame. It la covered with 1 h<
r i Plain, high-crowned black bats are in B
great favor with the Parisian milliners. the
ski
Many evening frocks of chiffon are the
y trimmed with Vaoe flounces and tiny
sprays and knots of silk or velvet flow- E
CfK. ?tl
t. . . wo
f iJrtssy frocks of eatln chow narrow n!c
po'nted trains or square or rounded trains
quite sepatutc from the rest of tho eklrt. T
o , rr.a
; On some tailored euits there are revere th?
and collars la white or gay, colore. ed?
n I
are
baf
I hoi
s/O ?
tw<
the
[ATS 1!
''i V; r/ j
r?>y rvZ&an "
ed
angeable taffeta and lined with cream- at
lored silk. A t?an<l of silk and thres i -pi
ndmlll loops arc placed at the back. ! tt
io brim la curved up at the back In a ^
;art shape. This can be done on an
klrts at present are little pleated, ?
iugh If there 1h any pleating on the str
rt it is better to have It stitched all cei
i way to the bottom. fei
to
Evening frocks of tuli? or de'Jcate lace
le flounces touched .with crystal?ore I
rn under extremely short chiffon tu- col
e, edged with fringe. sui
pr<
'he hat or parasol dimension shows ing
sees of gorgeous plumes placed over
t crown. A fringe of fur is used to 1
jo the shape. lor
*
HnBnwl|
"he High Collar Lint
PREDOMINANCE of the hl|
L collar la noticeable on blous
* and bodices for afternoon,
but one of the many changes th
re come Into the field of dress. T1
toh neck Is used on some mode's, b
shallow yoke and high stock coll
back again. To the woman wl
i neither neck nor assurance, this
>eful.
okas and collars are made of pla
Le, that really gives the effect of u
rered skin. They are fitted perfect
1 the top of the collar Is piped wl
> and three bands of satin, repeatl)
colors used In the frock.
Unary mushroom buckram ehape I
e covering.
["he shape suggestive of Mexico Is
[vet-faced felt. It has a point
>wn and Is trimmed at the side wl
kite taffeta loops, wired and plac
<h on the crown. A shape cover
th beaver, corded silk, hatter's plu
cloth will be Just as attractiv<
rlish.
foil will notice that these hlj
iwned hats come quite far down o\
? head. They have various shap
Ims and can be fabric, felt or,
:t, of any material. These mod'
a eminently practical, but the hlf
3wn hat Is to be seen In the s<
e and silk models for evening. A
e of the curious features about i
w chapes is that they are becomi
any age. If the face and head
t become eclipsed by the high crow
is a fairly safe proof that you c
ice one on your head in safety a
the latest style
A Wedding Gown
mr ARGAINE-I.ACROIX hue glv
|/1 us an exquisite model of a toile
de marlee, which will be cop
rgely this fail by all lovers of 1
autiful and the simple
it is of white satin, made plain In t
lrt. The long train is folded at <
le in Ave thicknesses of material a
ught near the edge under a bunch
hlte roses and leaves.
Phe bodice Is of white tulle, with
:hu effect of duchess lace on one s
id the surplice Idea on the other. 'I
Ids of satin are crossed over at 1
slat line and are oontlnued around 1
rdle. The long sleeves are of tulle a
e high collar Is euged with eatin.
With this Is a oapllka adornment
;lle for th'e hair, with a tiny line
Bes forming an edge. The veil is fo
[ over It and falls In soft, crisp fo
. each aide to the hem of the dre
he Parisian bride no longer walks
te aiele with a veil concealing her fa
ia now a real factor of the beauty
is whole costume. f
ttnce lace and ribbon muffs were
ongly featured abroad during the
it season It is not surprising to s<
v crepe de chine muffs edged with
match the scarf.
Hack and blue are perhaps the
ore for the practical everyday tail<
t, though almost any color shi
>ve satisfactory, since the art of i
; is so good nowadays.
.'he great pillow muff Is famously f;
table.
1 FRENCH |p
FASHION !
NOTES r
PARIS Oct. 5
HAT3 with d?cid?dl>' high crowns j
are worn now They fit closely
down >ver the tiair and are
trimmed with ribbon. velvet, feathers or
quillings. The si.apes of beaver and
soft felt are the favorites.
The brims of new chapeaux are
turned up at the side, front or back.
A chic hat seen In the Bols yesterday
was of old-gold beaver. It was of
the small variety, with a high souttleshaped
crown. The crown was turned
up at one side and held beneath a blue,
bronxe and green ornament.
Some hats of this comfortable walking
type have simply a quilling. a stiff
quiu or a vrivei *i uie via*.
Pale rose seems to be the color for A
the debutante this year. Perhaps It ta bee
because everything is of this tone to the firs
young woman entering the social world. oft
A charming model of rose-coJored mo us- j cor
seline de soie had a little jacket effect ! no
of pale-pink taffeta. The tunic was are
edged with a Pinged silk quilling, which out
finished the sieeves and formed the pot
, edges of the silk sash. wit
The combination of pale turquoise gr?
over pink is another favorite for a spi
young girl or woman. Many evening but
dresses of the pale colore are sold with f0o
two undersllps of silk of different colors, \>u^
thus doubling the effect. no
Sashes are now being made an im- fru
portant part of gowns, in that they art an<
! forming square trains at the end of the
long skirts. tha
Fringe clings with psrsistent tenacity grs
to the robes of fashion. It is in chenille
on heavy diagonal serge. Then It *
is of lovely silk in gorgeous colors.
Beads lace, wood, wool?all are made
Into the trimming over which Paris is
almost crasy. cj
A smart afternoon gown worn at a '
tea given a few days ago was of black
inA
moussellne de sole over tllleul-oolored ^
satin. Black silk fringe, very long. br(
trimmed the shawl drapery on the bod- \
Ice, the crossed tunic and the sleeves chc
There were lace undersleevea, showing lr>'
decided puffs at the elbows. stp
Gold l&ce ia used to a great extent p
to trim white lace blouses for the mat- mu
tnee. cor
Chantllly l&ce, In both black and
white. Is used to form scant ruffles on em
silk evenlne aowns. Black over white \
moussellne. the whole falling over cr?
white satin, Is quite popular. *61
Many new blouses to wear with the
tailored suits have touches of color on '
them. A spot of brilliant embroidery or
will trim one. A bright binding on a net ha
ruffle will be used on another; and COj
bright colors In little vests, subcuffs to
and pipings are the rule. pU
Coat suits have trimmings of fur, of nc
white satin for single revere and of
large buttons. ^
Braid and buttons are combined to i-0
give a dashing military effect which is s?
quite evident on many long coats and
separate wraps. ELX>I8K.
For Tailored Skirts d,<
IF YOU would profit by the example ??(
of French tailors, you will order ol
separate skirts of one of the followlng
materials: sj,(
First, a double-faced cloth that has br<
lea; ed Into important place Is being mc
i used. It practlcaliy trims itself, and tui
5 will be very popular for this econom- jn
fb leal reason. fe(
fkm Then there are cheviots and serges for COi
Tt ! light-weight models, and all colors are I eX(
17 i in vogue, the neutral shades and dark
at I blue leading.
he | Heavy fancy suitings are very popu- ,iU
ut lar. The English tweeds and mixed J! ;
suitings are having a tremendous favor^
! itism shown them by the leading houses.
ho Tailored skirts are not so straight In Uo
la outline, many showing slashed effects
; at the side, and all are made walking
l length. ,
*n Some have a slightly raised waistband,
n- so that no belt U needed, while others s"?
jy show a normal line, with a stitched band am
. attached to he skirt. On others a back DOI
panel Is attached, wfth a modified front
ng edge that extends toward the front, thus t,a
forming a belt or girdle. ta'
am
?? 1 vai
>e" Designs by Drecoll id
f Q {
a i~~^ ROM the well-known bouse of t?e
ed H I>reooll there oome four lovely i
1th models which will form the In- sh<
:ed splration of many a trousseau this fall. lar
ed | First there is a wonderful little house ^
;ah drees of changeable red-and-aUver taX- a
sly feta. There Is a fichu of gray net for
' - *" ? - -i?i ?.^4 1 2
eagea wirn a nne quimug ui inu|?u
jh- silk. This fastens at front under a tr%
ner caboohon of frayed or fringed taffeta. an
,ed The sleeves are half length and edged Th
In with a wide ruching of ?Hk. corded In J"
els two rows through the center. The skirt 4
;h- Is fuller, but straight, and la edged with Sol
aft a wide ruching. a large silk rosette me
nd trimming tho front. 5
:he A sash edged with the quilling finishes ^
ng | the lovely and simple frock. an<
do | For a dinner gown there Is a com- 7
rn, | binatlon of white mousseline de sole and f,?
an ' sliver lace. There Is a tunic of the latter jeH
nd I that entirely covers the bodice and p
sleeves. Below the velvet girdle of brll- rie
; liant orange a long pep I tun drops at the |;a'
left and ?wings over In a slanting line '{j
at the back. A ruching of white satin tra
en ribbon trims the top of three folds at ha'
tte : the lower part of the skirt. roc
?hd ; For even.ng there Is shown yellow
il'? satin in a soft, heavy quality. Over the
bodice, which is a high girdle of metalLll#
He iaoe In gold, is drafted a flobu of
m? rich ecru lace. There are no slseves jt,
n<1 except a little drapery of maline.
of A tunlo of heavy embroidered lace
I hangs in a straight line at the back ^
a : and crosses over at the front in s slant- ren
. QD<
.da | liii*. wa
'he i Over this can be thrown a wonderful pia
th? < evening robe that la a mass of ?n?broid- the
Lhe j ery xhis "mnnteau be solr" la of dull mo
nd ! gray satin, douWo taoad, Its owaur:
f&u* being of a v si vet-s tripod pattern a <
of ' In gray and gold. The material in ltaell bee
of ' is gorgeous. On the outer eurfaee there be
i,t are a deep hem and bands of etnbrold* j ord
,, erv In green and gold. The dowsrs are ter
ids ! conventional and are reminiscent of th? jn
ss. i middle ages. The loose sleeves Show rjB,
up ! no armiioles and are caught together ca)
ce. ? by heavy cord ornaments. p|e
of Barely the whole offering emphasisee fe,
beauty of Hne, materials and coloring*, ^UI
Pr<
alt
: so The fashion of the summer for button tie
re- boots of white canvas has led to a new y&
?e a fashion of high button tg>ots of white tin
fur kid. These have vamps and heel pieces ma
of black patent leather. Aa
best! Hoods will be worn on evening coats tie
red and wraps, on short cloth Jackets of tal- tea
ouid iored suits and on long separate coats, to
3ye- j They can be applied with little difficulty thi
j by the home dressmaker. br<
j . th?
ash- Old gold Is one of the fa\o?ite colors for hit
' evening.
VARIOUS DISHES
FOR INVALIDS
^
BRGAKKA8T FOR \ DIABKTIC
Gum Gluten Hr?-skf?N Food
Raked Ikro w i t 1j Orated Cheese
<!!?(? Bis. nit
Coffee poured Into slight \ Iipimi yolk
r?f f'iiu or used witl a trM|?tiHifill f t>ut
ler or lieary rrcM 111 and sweetened with
swoettna.
A taull dish of <;ruled Pineapple
DINNER FOR A I?1 KRFTM".
Cream of Ofler.r Soup with Ncedloe.
or Uum Gluten Crisps.
Boiled Onion.
Scalloped Tomato Shriuip and I.ettu<-?
Salad.
Olives. Salted Almond*
Baked Custard t off en.
81 PPKR
Chi'-ken Salad
Gluten Bread and Butter.
Oileea. Baked Applea.
Tea.
I
i
mong the foods that are considered
it for a diabetic patient milk stands
it. If milk is forbidden cream can
en be used. Gluten bread la, of course,
isidered an essential, as It contains
starch. Other foods that are allowed
i oysters, clams, raw or cooked wlttaflour;
fresh or salt fish, beef, mutton,
lltry without seasoning, soups made
bout peas, beans or flour; cauliflower,
sen string beans, asparagus, lettuce,
nach and cresa. Jellies can be used,
t must be unsweetened, such as calf's
it; tea, coffee or cocoa can be used,
t without sugar Mineral waters, but
beer, ale or sweet wines. The only
its that can be used are sour apples
i lemons. For sweetening use sacchae
tablets, but in using them remember
it your utensils must be earthen or
mite, never metal.
et in Tuberculosis, Especially Pulmonary
Consumption.
(Allda Frances Pat tec.)
ioups?Turtle or oyster soup, mutton,
m or chicken broth, puree of barley,
e, peas, beans, cream of celery or to.toes,
beef tea, peptonized milk gruel.
*ish?All kinds of fresh tlsh, boiled or
tiled.
I eats?Rare roast beef or mutton, !amb
>ps, ham, fat ltacon, sweetbreads, pouigame,
tender stoaks, hamburger
ak rare.
'.g&s? Every way except fried,
'arinaceous?Oatmeal, wheaten grita,
ish, hominy, rice, whole wheat bread,
nbread, milk toast, biscuits, muffins,
ns.
'ats?Cream, butter, olive oil, cod liver
ulsion.
rocotahUo?r*nt ha_koil <ir
samed, string beans, spinach, onions,
paragus. tomatoes, green peas, all well
oked, lettuce, alone or with oil dressI,
celery.
>esserts?Farina, sago, tapieoa, apple
milk pudd'ng, floating island custards,
ked or stewed apples, with fresh cream,
oked fruits, rice with fresh cream
liquids?Fresh milk, cool, warm or peptized,
cocoa, chocolate or buttermilk,
ire water, tea, coffee or liquid pepteiids.
Avoid fried foods, salt fish, hashes,
avles, veal, pork, carrots, parsnip, cabige,
beets, turnips, cucumbers, macani,
spaghetti, sweets, pies, pastry,
'eet wines.
Diet in Fevers.
n fevers give food that is most easily
rested. Milk, whJch contains all the
)d principles. Is the best special diet
fevers.
n typhoid fever the intestines are the
it of the trouble, and all solid foods
ou'd be debarred. Here nutritious
oths and liquids are needed; but no
sat <fchould be given unt 1 the tempera-e
has been normal for several days.
scarlet fever, avoid all nitrogenous
>ds, because the kidneys and sk n are
ngested, and those are the organs that
crete nitrogen. Their work should be
sened, not increased. For this reason
y of the legumes, beans, peas or len5,
should not be used. Broth made from
. m would be most disastrous, while beef
mutton broth, which are less nutrlus,
can be readily assimilated.
Diet in Case of a "Cold."
it the beginning of a cold the diet
ould be light, but slightly stimulating
ti solid. Avoid greasy foods chee.se,
rk. veal and game. In catarrhal <-ndins.
smoked or salted meats should he
>ooed. as also tea, cofTee, moist bread
d pastry. A full starch diet a-grates
catarrh
n the selection, preparation and servof
any invalid's food there are eern
fixed rules .that may be briefly sumirized
as follows:
. Regularity in feeding. No pit >*nt
ould be marie to wait l>eyond the regu'
time for meals Unless one has lie-n
herself, it Is difficult to tniag'.n" the
king, nauseating feeling that conies to
' ? vt-,
SICK ptrsuii w licit mc
gotten or delayed.
. Give the nour.s.hment In as concented
a form as pos.sible.
. Bathe the patient's face and hands
d rinse the mouth before each meal,
e comfort of the patbnt Is dependent
a large desree upon the conditions of
i mouthBe
sure that everything served is abutely
fresh, sweet and sound, whether
at. flsh, eggs, vegetables or fruit
. No fried foods should ever be given
invalid.
. Provide a^ much variety as possible,
d let things be a surprise
. Avoid serving too many things at a
;e or In too large a quantity.
. Do not till cups or glasses full, but
ve at least an in<h from the top.
When the dietary 1? limited In vaty,
the pati?-nt may be gra titled byring
it served in courses, eating more
:n as if all served at once.
>. After eatiog remove at once all
ees of the meal If it is advisable to
re arty food or drink left In the sick
im, i over closely.
Beef Tea.
'his should always be prepared at home,
ess <>ne has access to a first-claaa diet
chen.
ieef extract is excellent as a stimulant,
t does not contain aim h of any nourment.
To-make the tea.
'ake one pound of the round of br.f
tiove every scrap of fat and chop von?.
Cover with one pint of cold, soft
ter. and stand aside an hour Then
ce in a jar fn the oven or a kettle on
; back of the stove and heat in <
derate^degree -not mu h warmer th in
i coma ucar your nanus to. :-u? i
fro*"?, at the outside Strain throng
lolander. not a stramer. If care ha?
m taken in the preparation, it mav
served at once, simply salted, with
Unary salt or celery salt It is bet
, however, to let it stand several hours
a cold place, to let every bit of fat
e to the surface Remove In a solid
te, if there is much, or with a clean
see of blotting paper If necessary to
teat take pains not to let the temperate
rise above ltio degrees. If it apjaches
the boiling point and the
>umen coagulates it is spoiled If
is necessary' to give beef lea to a pant
several times daily it is wise to
ry the tbe liavor from time to time, so
it the itWalid does not tire of it. This
iy be done by means of a bay leaf or a
voring of soine vegetable, straining
;m out before serving. For the pant
who rebels against the sight of beef
t unless overcooked, which causes it
fuse its bright color, or unless strained
"ough a line sieve, which removes the
jwn flakes, which are the best part of
i broth, get a red wine glass and giv#
n his tea in that
fiMMA PADDOCK ThiRFORIX