:r Hole SKms to mafe a Coat Uke Tius /^pp Sable Now the Supreme 1 Fox a Fad in ParisMnHs lor EYenio Costumes Made ORSE SHOW week app m) is the official openH n ing- of the fur sea[} B furs are worn, of P 0 weather turns cold are worn whether , mometer warrants j it. and if the Indian summer is too long j and too late to make coats bearable dainty frocks accompanied by handsome fur neckpieces and muffs are donned. The wiseacres are prophesying a cold SO long as there are cats, pumpkins and hobgoblins a-pientv it will not matter greatly what the character of the Halloween party may be, but whether it is a card party, cotillon or just an ordinary Halloween frolic, the sepulchral lights, mysterious, green-eyed felines and other s\ mb? Is of the witches' night must not be omitted if the occasion is to be a success Halloween cotillons have been quite the tad for the last season or two. and these dances can be made very charmin.; with the aid of crepe paper decora t:ons. pumpkin-shaded tights ana iavors of Halloween type. One of the prettiest insure.- for such a cotillon is the mirror figure, \vhi?h introduce? the old Halloween superstition of the lovers face ietie<-ted in a maid's mirror 0*1 the stroke of midnight. When this figure is to be danced the lights in the ballroom are lowered, red-shaded lamps be' g set here anil theie to lessen the gloom. The girl called up by the cotillon leader Is .landed an ordinary hand mirror and a lighted < andle in a candlestick. She takes her place in a chair in the center of the room and the young men summoned by the le ader come behind the chair in turns x vBSrL^" ^msF \<>a?^r n - \ JBf ^SQ^* 4>iriV^ >^|M^Ppr . ' i ; ;K-;i||j : , i : :, Ja *" CATS AAD BATS ARB LMPOR1 I I +': ^BKE|&AH9fcfc9HgSBp ^5 One heaped on Another'Myrithrrin&e ani Luxury in Furs-Orange -Superb Scarls and, ig Wear-Whole i of Fur Now. i y winter, and, contemplating the prepara- < tions which the furriers have made, one ' sincerely hopes that prophecy may come ; j true, for only snappy, freezing weather ! will make many of the huge neckpiece:? I and draped fur wraps endurable. What ' the furriers call collars are really sizable ( capes, which cover the figure to the wai.?-4 line, and these tremendous neckpieces. with their big muffs to match, require a goodly supply of fur?as the i purchaser soon discovers. An example of i the exaggerated size of some of the i new furs is instanced in the photograph j of a set of black and white fox furs de- ; signed for use with a handsome reception costume. Black and white fox pelts are ! uwe-ti in thi?J Klinprh a rtrl tVio cuLrlmi; ? e:. i ... ? ? ? wvvi up?i i iB^HH '< '-m MHSP^ Hi liLIVM Wir^ J^maB8???^ - 5** I lil*?iM; *wi p Hi : I^^HF I tossed over the shoulders in a carelessly luxurious effect that is picturesque in the extreme. The muff is made of black velvet lined with white satin and, over it liagonally are filing two foxskins, one jlack and the other white, with a natu alistic , trimming of paws and brushes. Heads, paws and brushes also trim the leckpiece, and the white animal seems grasping the body of the black one in ts teeth, and the b'ack animal the white jne is a realistic and ferocious manner. , i * * * Even the more inexpensive fur sets, m '4 fl P U Ti tn ^pll \r\ nn??ntlf?Au ? -1 * ? ? 4- ?? ^umuvilicc 11 viu uycu skins, have tlrs barbaric, picturesque character and the conventional, narrow fur stole crossed in front of the throat has a very prim, old mah.ish look this season contrasted with the big fur neckpieces that are flung over the shoulders and back. Tails and paws are lavishly Win 1 : ' " i HtCIS RING ATTIRE. the particular face that pleases her. Then she rises and dances away with the chosen swain, the disappointed young men dancing in pairs together. * * * Pumpkin pincushions, pretty candlesticks. catseye jewelry and fancy baskets and bonbon boxes decorated in Halloween style make charming favors for a cotillon of this sort, and of course the supper table will be highly .significant of the event, cats, pumpkins, hobgoblins and witches playing an important part in the decorations. The menu may also include appropriate dishes, like fruit and nut salad, pumpkin tarts, cider and ice cream in Halloween shapes, which any good aterer can furnish. Some patties of deliriously creamed meat were labeled on the menu card at a Halloween party last fall "Patties a chat noir," and the patty shells were set on little mats of suggestive black fur (cut from an old muff). The guests made many facetious comments on the chat noir course, but the patties were all consumed with evident relish nevertheless. Ghostly decorations add much to the llulloween character of the entertainment, and If you happen to possess one of the tall piano lamps, or an ordinary tall, slender lamp which stands on a small table, you can concoct a wonderful spectral ghost which will be certain to make a tremendous hit. The ghost's head is made of yellow crepe paper over RSI Codr\ * ^ ???W1 ? . ? - ' I j1 fl Hk <^| gp ^ wmmm J1 : \ Set of "BLscR. andWhits * a Small Fortune - c s ?????????? g used to Increase th's effect of luxury r and even the most Inexpensive furs when ( made up in the new styles cost a good v bit more than they did a few seasons ^ ago. r The wraps also are quite different from f the straight, conventional affairs of a few c seasons ago. Once a sealskin coat dif- 5 ferc-d very little from an ordinary ulster n in style. It was slashed up the back, had i regulation coat sleeves and a narrow coat t collar and lapels, and verv often it was s lined staidly with quilted wadding In the h somber shade of the brown fur. Nowa- c days the sealskin wrap is an entirely dif- d ferent affa r. Its lines are exquisitely d graceful, and while not defining the figure r too plainly it gives an effect of slender- a ness and grace that is truly marvelous. \ considering that it is made of fur and r lined with heavy brocaded satin. a Fur coats are really too heavy to wear t on the street when walking and these s garments are usually reserved for auto! mob'le wear or for use over light indoor f 1 frocks in carriage or limousine. On very t a huge wire frame which sets over the e ordinary round globe of the lamp. On s this shade are pasted enormous, slanting t white paper eyeballs with black pupils I set at the outer corners, tiery red paper g nostrils and a terrific red paper mouth h with white teeth. If these features are 1 cleverly arranged the ghost will have a J probably fierce and horrible expression. Yards of white crepe paper are wound in spiral effect around the tall standard of the lamp to form "draped skirts," and a straight tunic of the white paper falls I from a pleated paper ruche which repre! sents a i ollar just below the livhtei head. Arms are made of long strips of pasteboard and over them fall white tissue paper "angel" sleeves. Of course the fingers are cut long and clawlike and the more rudely fashioned the hands the funnier. * * .1nm?ilm?s thp Halloween hostess per suades a young brother to dress up in sheet draperies to play the ghost of some wel> known person "come back for the evening to be one of us." A length of white muslin, with holes cut for the eyes and nose, and two rows of teeth sug- j I gested with bla' k paint, is thrown over j the "ghost's" face, another length of I white muslin being draped over the head j and shoulders. A glove tilled with cracked Ice Is i resented cordially and solemnly , for earf-h guest to shake, the glove being held of course in the "ghost's" own hand under cover of the sleeve. The Halloween cake Is a feature that should not be omitted from the night's entertainment, and this cake may he 1 ' * - -* '1-- -1 uruuKiii on ill iiic viuac , * ?' * guest cutting a slice in turn. In the cake ; are hidden various tiny trinkets which are supposed to hint at the future fortune I of the recipient. A ring signifies a happy marriage; a thimble, spinsterhood; a button, bachelorhood, or. if found by a maid, < bachelor girlhood; a pen. a library career; < a pencil, an artistic one; a coin, wealth, 1 and so on. The hostess may use her own < ingenuity in selecting the cake favors, < but very tiny ones must be chosen or the l cake itself will not be a success. i There are. certain traditionul Halloween i rites which must not be omitted from the most up-to-date Halloween party. One of these is the bobbing for apples game. ? which is un anolent English custom. Real . bobbing for apples^-or "ducking" for ap- 1 pies, as It is called very properly?should be Indulged in only when the Halloween d party is an informal lark and nobody f has on anything that a good drenching . with water will injure. A more moderate form of -the bobbing for apples game may c be arranged by the Halloween hostess f who Is entertaining a party of well j dressed young people. The apples, great, rosy affairs, float in bona tide water, but to each apple atem is attached a little e red ribbon bow, which may easily be c caught in the teeth, and when the apple c is lifted from the water a slip of paper n is discovered thrust into a slash cut in one side near the top. On these slips of ? paper are inscribed various pertinent and 5 pleasant quotations applicable to the dis- ? coverers. Some of the new conceits for Halloween decoration are illustrated. All these pictures have been made trom photographs d t old days the fur coat is seen on the itreet over little frocks of cashmere or nohair, but on the bright, clear days of vhich New York sees so many?when the nercury hovers between forty and fifty, ny lady prefers a smart coat and skirt iuit with a handsome fur neckpiece and nuflf to the more cumbersome fur wrap. * * * The fur . coats this season are most graceful affairs, built on rather narrow [nes, but roomy enough at the shoulders o l>e very comfortable over wool frocks. [*he models for day wear have coat leeves finished with wide cuffs, and huge .hawl collars of the fUr or of some conrasting pelt The very smartest Persian coats are severely plain in effect, he richness of the fur being cons dered iistinction enough without an added rimming of contrasting pelt. Sometimes striped border trimming Is contrived by .rranging strips of the, fur in opposite Erections, as in one of today's photorapha which shows a Dreeoll coat of ;enuine sea! in mantle style with a deep hawl collar, cuffs and border trimming if the seal striping just described. The astening is at the left side, below the caist. two large buttons covered with the ealekin he ng fastened under an ornanent of brown silk cord. The richness of his beautiful coat is apparent at a dance and no added garniture of skunk, ipossum or other pelt could add to the listinction and beauty of the garment as t is. in ts simple, perfect good taste. In striking contrast to this beautiful Dreeoll coat is another sealskin model. 1-V.ic nnot ic f'JT ? T* > i, t. c/vi l- ,einh unH nl'fl. [ entious in style than the simple Drrecoli vrap. hut it lacks the dignity and ex- f luisite distinction of the Paris-made gar- j nent. The iines are in accordance with ! ashion's mandate for fur wraps of this haracter, but at the foot of the coat here is an eccentric, though modish, itirnn'ng note. Around the front of the garnent is an "apron" of undyed muskrat,vhile at the hack deep silk fringe boilers the coat, the fringe h?ir,g set 011 bo- i ow a hand of the sealskin, upon which \ ire huge cord buttons and loops. The hawl collar mid ide cuffs are edged vith the undyed muskrat, which, by the >ye. is a very attractive new fur much avored by Paquin. This fur lias a graysh cast with soft brown stripes and is 'ke the Austra'ian opossum without its due color. To match the coat just den-rihed there is a tonne of the muskrat. rinimed, at the left side with an Bast ndian ornament of colored beads. * * * Only the very rich woman now can aford a coat of teal sealskin or genuine nink, and as for rable. its price is alnost prohibitive now that tne Russian luma has forbidden the trapping of sades for three years. Sealskin is a most wice as costly as it was two years ago ind mink has advanced almost as much iroportlonately. Even the once-despised kunk, known to the puiite world variousy as leutre, brown marten and Alaska able, is 7a per cent more costly than < t was two years ago, and the common ' ittle coon may value h s skin at in- ! tead of 70 cents. Fortunately, however, j or those of us who may not afford to i 1 ' 1 C 1 ^11.. AMI- u*4n I pena lllUUbcinus U1 uunain u^un uiii ?n.er furs, there aie many less costly vaieties, some of them imitations of the .ristocrat.c seal, fox and sable, made by lying pleb.an beasts of .the wood and lelde. For example, uyed raccoon looks nuch like sea?; thibet goat when cleverly reated is hard to tell from the extremely . ostly white Sitka fox; red fox of the ields is dyed to resemble his aristocratic ousins; coney looks much like ermine; Australian opossum is almost as pretty as he rare and costly chinchilla?and so on. Jink is one of the furs that have never teen successfully imitated. There are lOrrible fur neckpiece and muff sets sold s "mink" which are merely marmot kins ftreaked with a paint brush and rhich deceive nobody. The "brook mink" old by many good furriers is really luskrat, and there is a Japanese mink hat is so cleverly treated that it de- J elves even the dealers. In genuine mink ' he black streak goes clear through the ur to the skin. This fur is very beauti ul when new, but it soon fades ana [>ses Its depth of tone, taking on tawny, ellow streaks that are ugly. It is Just ,ow not as fashionable as the darker irown sealskin and the soft gray-brown aoleskin which is used for draped evenng wraps. * * * The furs par excellence for dressy vening and afternoon limousine wraps re ermine and moleskin. The latter has oine into favor within the past two seaons and is now very fashionable. The oft, lovely grayish brown of moleskin aatches no other fabric exactly and yet his adorable fur seems to harmonize kith all fabric colorings. From a hunIred and fifty to two hundred skins are equired to make an ordinary wrap, and or the voluminous affairs draped in rlental fashion many more are required, .loleskin is so soft and pliable, that it nay be draped as readily as velvet, and t is usually made up in mantle rather han coat style, with gracefully draped leeves and other oriental features. A i landsome moleskin wrap with trimmings <1 if skunk is illustrated. Another wrap, lisplayed in a 5th avenue furrier's winlow this week, is in perfectly plain nantle style, and to accompany it there ire a long, soft moleskin scarf, lined : vith gray silk, and a huge flat muff that | night be a second scarf doubled over ,1 md softly lined. Both scarf and muff are rimmed witli long chenille fringe in the shade of the moleskin. ' Frmine. of course, is the fur of furs ' or an evening wrap?tf one can afford, he luxury. If not, one may have white ?f real Halloween favors, ready In the hops for this year's fun and frolic on he night of witches, cats and hobgoblins, iroomstkks and bats have not been for;otten, and the jolly hobgoblins are all tullt to hold candy somewhere In their nteriors. The Halloween ghost is made A ' _ _ _ MJj 8 W ,*?8 wAiffiB JWg - TWJ| gWBT g i .. / > 'UMPKIN WAND FOR THE HAL- ' LOWEEN COTILLON. jf white crepe paper wrapped round a leeorated hazlenut, and beside the ghost s a pumpkin-faced shell for ice cream or \indy. The graceful wand for a Halloween cotillon is trimmed with green crepe aaper leaves and swimming pumpkins. I aJso made of crepe paper in yellow shades. Silver Amulets That Contain Sachet. ItlJY lady wears now slung about her neck on a slender silver chain a lainty. round ornament that looks like a lat plaque, but which is really a very hin silver case containing circular sheets if absorbent paper perfumed with her avorlte odor. The silver cases are beauifully chased and the metal is pierced in ilagree effect to allow the perfume to scape. These new amulets are worn lutside the blouse and sometimes the liain is long enough to allow the silver laque to swing just outside the front if the coat. Of course, the chain and ierfume case may be as handsome as one leslres, and some of the chains are set kdth pearls in most effective fashion. A decided vogue for black velvet and lark navy blue velvet is noticeable. " = ^^HBh?$p?s! mH:r ^BaX -?* '^^Erafc!Fi& ?hk?: - ^VM. ,?' uyo|^ ?BHBPP^^ BIBFy ?SES8bw? x / * j^B^^^K^PS-::y;*<:::::>x ' }_ ? v ?.^^^^H|Bfj|H iw <^< IKZ^^V:1 Lfl ^ HrSNV.v. v .% CHKmrajXsy??|pifevJr wWKSxMroy.'-'-''' -iBj^ ro^gWK<::. A.HgmSv.vv. WH^^y-Kv:::-.; x >;: ... SejalsRin is Apraised Kow inBich striped Ef fee z !_ :one> trimmed with ermine tails, to give ! he ermine effect. White fox trimmings i a tre not now as fash.onable with ermine b is the brilliant orange fox, which was ! e >ne of the Paul Poiret enthusiasms last i-w winter in Paris. This "orange"' fox is j o really our humble American fox of the j c lelds transformed by fashionable favor nto a distinguished pelt. Poiret selects : t he reddest and most brilliant fox skins v ind uses them for trimming purposes on j o white fur wraps and on his remarkable p jrientai gowns. An illustration shows one , y if his white ermine evening wraps with t inmmings cf orange fox. a Till. rj *--v viie s mun me opirpr i^is a season, but fortunately these huge muffs , t SUITABLE CLOTHES | FOR OLDER WOMEN C*XiCBPT in very few Instances, there j should be no age line in fashions, rhere is, or should be, a difference in col- n >rs. and to a certain extent in materials, t ?ut not in styles. On the whole, the t styles of the day are quite as well suited ^ :o women of one age as of another. . v In regard to colors, a young girl can p wear the most startling, trying shades a md carry them off more or less success- a 'ully, but an older woman has to con- n sider what is suitable and becoming,, and j hoose colors that will help her. She j e ?hould avoid bright, harsh shades that :all for a young, fresh complexion on the me hand, and the drab tones and dull v slacks that suggest the old lady on the t )ther. Dark colors are more becoming p :o stout figures than light shades that ^ lave a diffusing quality and make a ivoman look larger than she is. The stout a woman should never wear all white, or ight pinks and blues, or yellows. s Soft, indefinite colors suit an older t woman better than brighter shades. They t should avoid all light colors except white, c aearl. silver and oyster gray, any shade f if -n/iafarin or nansv color, and black and white for their gowns and a iresses. For street suits older women t should keep pretty close to very dark s blues, blacks and dark grays. t t * * t If you wear chiffons and veilings in j your evening dresses, be sure that they i are weighted properly with fringe or J beads, or embroidery, so that they will ! 1 fall in straight, limp lines about your figure. The white fichu that is so smart on afternoon and evening gowns is a style that is perfectly suitable for a mld31e-aged .woman, unless she happens to be stout. It is hardly a style that looks well on a large figure. A coat suit of black and white striped J serge and a black hat trimmed with white j wings Is one of the handsomest outfits j for a woman of mature years. Black and white fabrics are always stylish, but care must be taken not to select the noticeable designs, which attract more attention than even brilliant color schemes. A modest black-and-white plaid Is suitable for any age. but a large, pronounced plaid is too loud for a conservative woman. The same rule holds for stripes. There are striped goods in most ?xquisite taste, and others may be called stunning, but they will not he chosen by the woman who does not want her clothes to have a sort of a sign-board cnect. * * * Proper black and white is always a safe purchase. The combination of black and white in which the black is worn bver the white Is among the smartest color tones. An embroidered black chiffon over white satin is often seen in the handsome imported gowns, and black chiffon waists over white silk or satin are among the most popular models. An elderly woman seen recently at a reception wore a most becoming costume j of gray and pink, which set off the beauty i of her nearly white hair and gave the | faintest shade of pink to her cheeks, j which was a great deal prettier than any rouge effect she might have tried. The j skirt of her gown was of gray cloth, the bodice of gray chiffon over gray silk, j with a small yoke of lace and narrow j piping of pink where the yoke and bodice j joined. Over this she wore a long even- | 1 ?rl?K a I Ing coat or gray uroauuviu ??rcu **in* ?. soft pink silk. WAISTS OF TWO COLORS AND TWO MATERIALS A RATHER odd effect is gained by the style which calls for one color and kind of material for one side of the waist, while the other side ts of a material quite different in both shade and texture, the two sections running across the bodice diagonally. If a woman had too little cloth for her waist and fashioned it in this way from necessity it would be a calamity. but now that it is done with a purpose, and that purpose to walk meekly in the footsteps of Dame Fashion, it nakes all the difference in the world. We can feel quite at ease if we are blue on >ne side and gray on the other. We are n fashion if we have a beautiful blue Bead garniture on the left of us and a fray silk on the right of us. It will be a clever ruse for the woman who is mak- I ng over an old dress and Is short of rna:erlal. Many of the newest gowns have ileeves of two materials. In one beauti'ul evening gown the sleeves of pink mestaline were cut away in front, and ;hrough this open oval space was seen ;he embroidered net. On some gowns al nost the entire upper part of the sleeve was cut away and filled with a sort of attice work of silk which was twisted in cords, each interstice being joined with a fold sequin. M^t :ts> Ermine arid 1 re flat rather than round and are so j uilf that the? are wonderfully light and a-sy to carry. .The barrei-stiaped mufT .as not a success for street use. and nly a few .of these muffs, designed for i-iriage use. are seen. All the new neckpieces are lavlshl) j rimmed with brushes and paws, and one : .-ears her neckpiece girlishly tossed over ne shoulder. Prim, fasten-in-front ne< kdeoes are relegated to matrons of mature ' ears. For use vyith tailored street suits i he favorite pelts are fox in white, blue nd black, pointed fox. fisher, fitch, lynx nd wolf. Black Persian lamb rr?tnlses j o be extremely fashionable later in the ! Marabou and 0 II Iff ARABOU, ostrlcli and marabou, and ! 1^/1 ostrich alone are the feathers used in the latest neckpieces and uuffs, and not for many a season have hese accessories proved as smart and atractive as now. Marabou is now so leautifully manipulated that sets of it are j ery often preferred to those of fur. eseciatly as they.may consistently be worn 11 the year round. Furs in midsummer Jways look out of place, but not so tarabou. or other feather neckwear. It i light in weight, soft, becoming and lnxpensive. A square collarette of white narabou is bordered in black marabou, i rhile a boa or white marabou has an os- J rich-blue finish. Another favorite fancy s to have muffs and collars constructed ! rom alternating bands of shirred chiffon .nd marabou. The new ostrich boas are charming and oft, for instead of the old short ostrich he boas of this season are made of the ied ostrich, and most frequently unurled, producing a wonderful fringed efect so fashionable just now. : , AJ ? i i _ _ _ j i a ror v etna.Liuii mtse uua.55 aim ii?n?:a ire made up with other delicate things, hus giving a pleasing contrast. For intance, one was made of pale blue osrich, which parted here and there to ihow smail pink rosebuds made of two ones of chiffon. Another, a beagtiful >lack one about two and a half yards ong, was made like a collarette, and had n the center of the back three small ; >lumes tipped with white. The ends were ! inished with heavy t>lack silk tassels. Another exquisite collarette was made >f five blending shades of peach pink FOR AFT < There is something very "ta ed today. It is of elephant gray back and front over bretelles m feta. The yoke and collar of gi ing "let through" the blouse fr of the same lace is finished by ; turning forward over the bib are of the pretty sleeves. The wais of shirring and the skirt, closing of taffeta similar to those on tfi np II * T> II | " I! II II B| y jf- Jg^BkiB y^F Red Fox .Poiret's Hsvor?ite Combination. season, hut just now the brown and gray furs arc in higher favor than black. A novelty in the fur line is a goodlooking coat and skirt suit made of b!a? k broadtail?cheaper models are of tine black caracul the skirt having the prescribed narrow linos and tip- c< at being a smart hip-length affair 1awntUv out and trimmed witu broad bla-'k silk, braid. Simettmes a little vest of oriental embroidery Is let into the front of the coat. To match this fur suit there are accessories In the way of toque, muff , 1 ??i ?ii PorOan rtlKJ I ruv. uir, an incur ui * *i*- * * lamb or caracul, and trimmed with braid or oriental embroidery. strich Feathers* chiffon, each overlapping the other tw? inches from the lower edge of the underlying piece. A two-inch ostrich fringe edged each layer of chiffon The muft with this collarette was of almost gigantic proportions and made of shirred chiffon, banded at intervals with ostrich In hat trimmings feathers take the lead. A great deal of paradise Is seen moil some of the more expensive hats, and it is used in quantiti-f* when used at all. Ostrich plumes and half plumes, uncuried plumes, the new small tips and many two-tone plumes and demi-plumes art used on the liner models. High pointed crowns made of vulture feathers resemble to some extent the banished heron aigrette. Masses of these feathers are used in an upstanding position all around the high crowns of the smaller hats and are in gray, tan, brown, black and white. To Clean Black Woolen Skirt. TJ1VE cents' worth of soap tree hark * will clean a black woolen skirt. Put the bark into one gallon of water and set it on the stove, letting it boil ten minutes; then strain and pour the strained water into a tub containing siifflcient warm water to wash the skirt. Rub the skirt thoroughly in this water. IJo not use the board, but rub the skirt between the hands. Put the bark strainings bark on the stove with cold water and heat it Just warm enough for rinsing water Rinse the skirt in tills and hang it out to dry. When it is nearly dry take it from the line and iron it on the wrong aide while it Is still damp. ERNOON. 9 9 Wi . " JJ iking ' about the model sketch- , cashmere with a bib effect in ade of two tones of gray tafray, lace have the effect of beont where a pendant triangle a silk tassel. The little pieces : of the taffeta, as are the cuffs it line is marked by two rows 1 on the right, has a little rever % le blouse. J