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Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, October 15, 1911, Image 79

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Persistent link: https://chroniclingamerica.loc.gov/lccn/sn83045462/1911-10-15/ed-1/seq-79/

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Hole SKms to mafe
a Coat
Uke Tius /^pp
Sable Now the Supreme 1
Fox a Fad in ParisMnHs
lor EYenio
Costumes Made
app m) is the official openH
n ing- of the fur sea[}
B furs are worn, of
P 0 weather turns cold
are worn whether ,
mometer warrants j
it. and if the Indian summer is too long j
and too late to make coats bearable
dainty frocks accompanied by handsome
fur neckpieces and muffs are donned.
The wiseacres are prophesying a cold
SO long as there are cats, pumpkins
and hobgoblins a-pientv it
will not matter greatly what the
character of the Halloween party
may be, but whether it is a card
party, cotillon or just an ordinary Halloween
frolic, the sepulchral lights, mysterious,
green-eyed felines and other s\ mb?
Is of the witches' night must not be
omitted if the occasion is to be a success
Halloween cotillons have been quite
the tad for the last season or two. and
these dances can be made very charmin.;
with the aid of crepe paper decora
t:ons. pumpkin-shaded tights ana iavors
of Halloween type. One of the prettiest
insure.- for such a cotillon is the mirror
figure, \vhi?h introduce? the old Halloween
superstition of the lovers face
ietie<-ted in a maid's mirror 0*1 the stroke
of midnight. When this figure is to be
danced the lights in the ballroom are
lowered, red-shaded lamps be' g set here
anil theie to lessen the gloom. The girl
called up by the cotillon leader Is .landed
an ordinary hand mirror and a lighted
< andle in a candlestick. She takes her
place in a chair in the center of the room
and the young men summoned by the
le ader come behind the chair in turns
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^5 One heaped on
Luxury in Furs-Orange
-Superb Scarls and,
ig Wear-Whole
i of Fur Now. i
winter, and, contemplating the prepara- <
tions which the furriers have made, one '
sincerely hopes that prophecy may come ; j
true, for only snappy, freezing weather !
will make many of the huge neckpiece:? I
and draped fur wraps endurable. What '
the furriers call collars are really sizable (
capes, which cover the figure to the
wai.?-4 line, and these tremendous neckpieces.
with their big muffs to match,
require a goodly supply of fur?as the i
purchaser soon discovers. An example of i
the exaggerated size of some of the i
new furs is instanced in the photograph j
of a set of black and white fox furs de- ;
signed for use with a handsome reception
costume. Black and white fox pelts are !
uwe-ti in thi?J Klinprh a rtrl tVio cuLrlmi; ? e:. i
... ? ? ? wvvi up?<u inv cniuo at v |
i r "~
, und peer over the girl's shoulder into the
mirror while some one strikes twelve on
| h gong. The girl pretends to wipe the
I reflections off the mirror until she sees
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tossed over the shoulders in a carelessly
luxurious effect that is picturesque in the
extreme. The muff is made of black velvet
lined with white satin and, over it
liagonally are filing two foxskins, one
jlack and the other white, with a natu alistic
, trimming of paws and brushes.
Heads, paws and brushes also trim the
leckpiece, and the white animal seems
grasping the body of the black one in
ts teeth, and the b'ack animal the white
jne is a realistic and ferocious manner.
, i
* *
Even the more inexpensive fur sets,
m '4 fl P U Ti tn ^pll \r\ nn??ntlf?Au ? -1 *
? ? 4- ?? ^umuvilicc 11 viu uycu
skins, have tlrs barbaric, picturesque
character and the conventional, narrow
fur stole crossed in front of the throat
has a very prim, old mah.ish look this
season contrasted with the big fur neckpieces
that are flung over the shoulders
and back. Tails and paws are lavishly
Win 1
: ' "
the particular face that pleases her. Then
she rises and dances away with the
chosen swain, the disappointed young
men dancing in pairs together.
* *
Pumpkin pincushions, pretty candlesticks.
catseye jewelry and fancy baskets
and bonbon boxes decorated in Halloween
style make charming favors for
a cotillon of this sort, and of course the
supper table will be highly .significant of
the event, cats, pumpkins, hobgoblins and
witches playing an important part in the
decorations. The menu may also include
appropriate dishes, like fruit and nut
salad, pumpkin tarts, cider and ice cream
in Halloween shapes, which any good
aterer can furnish. Some patties of deliriously
creamed meat were labeled on
the menu card at a Halloween party last
fall "Patties a chat noir," and the patty
shells were set on little mats of suggestive
black fur (cut from an old muff).
The guests made many facetious comments
on the chat noir course, but the
patties were all consumed with evident
relish nevertheless.
Ghostly decorations add much to the
llulloween character of the entertainment,
and If you happen to possess one
of the tall piano lamps, or an ordinary
tall, slender lamp which stands on a
small table, you can concoct a wonderful
spectral ghost which will be certain to
make a tremendous hit. The ghost's
head is made of yellow crepe paper over
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\ Set of "BLscR. andWhits *
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used to Increase th's effect of luxury r
and even the most Inexpensive furs when (
made up in the new styles cost a good v
bit more than they did a few seasons ^
ago. r
The wraps also are quite different from f
the straight, conventional affairs of a few c
seasons ago. Once a sealskin coat dif- 5
ferc-d very little from an ordinary ulster n
in style. It was slashed up the back, had i
regulation coat sleeves and a narrow coat t
collar and lapels, and verv often it was s
lined staidly with quilted wadding In the h
somber shade of the brown fur. Nowa- c
days the sealskin wrap is an entirely dif- d
ferent affa r. Its lines are exquisitely d
graceful, and while not defining the figure r
too plainly it gives an effect of slender- a
ness and grace that is truly marvelous. \
considering that it is made of fur and r
lined with heavy brocaded satin. a
Fur coats are really too heavy to wear t
on the street when walking and these s
garments are usually reserved for auto!
mob'le wear or for use over light indoor f
1 frocks in carriage or limousine. On very t
a huge wire frame which sets over the e
ordinary round globe of the lamp. On s
this shade are pasted enormous, slanting t
white paper eyeballs with black pupils I
set at the outer corners, tiery red paper g
nostrils and a terrific red paper mouth h
with white teeth. If these features are 1
cleverly arranged the ghost will have a J
probably fierce and horrible expression.
Yards of white crepe paper are wound in
spiral effect around the tall standard of
the lamp to form "draped skirts," and a
straight tunic of the white paper falls
I from a pleated paper ruche which repre!
sents a i ollar just below the livhtei head.
Arms are made of long strips of pasteboard
and over them fall white tissue
paper "angel" sleeves. Of course the
fingers are cut long and clawlike and the
more rudely fashioned the hands the funnier.
* *
.1nm?ilm?s thp Halloween hostess per
suades a young brother to dress up in
sheet draperies to play the ghost of some
wel> known person "come back for the
evening to be one of us." A length of
white muslin, with holes cut for the eyes
and nose, and two rows of teeth sug- j
I gested with bla' k paint, is thrown over
j the "ghost's" face, another length of
I white muslin being draped over the head
j and shoulders. A glove tilled with cracked
Ice Is i resented cordially and solemnly ,
for earf-h guest to shake, the glove being
held of course in the "ghost's" own hand
under cover of the sleeve.
The Halloween cake Is a feature that
should not be omitted from the night's
entertainment, and this cake may he
1 ' * - -* '1-- -1
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guest cutting a slice in turn. In the cake ;
are hidden various tiny trinkets which
are supposed to hint at the future fortune I
of the recipient. A ring signifies a happy
marriage; a thimble, spinsterhood; a button,
bachelorhood, or. if found by a maid, <
bachelor girlhood; a pen. a library career; <
a pencil, an artistic one; a coin, wealth, 1
and so on. The hostess may use her own <
ingenuity in selecting the cake favors, <
but very tiny ones must be chosen or the l
cake itself will not be a success. i
There are. certain traditionul Halloween i
rites which must not be omitted from the
most up-to-date Halloween party. One
of these is the bobbing for apples game. ?
which is un anolent English custom. Real .
bobbing for apples^-or "ducking" for ap- 1
pies, as It is called very properly?should
be Indulged in only when the Halloween d
party is an informal lark and nobody f
has on anything that a good drenching .
with water will injure. A more moderate
form of -the bobbing for apples game may c
be arranged by the Halloween hostess f
who Is entertaining a party of well j
dressed young people. The apples, great,
rosy affairs, float in bona tide water, but
to each apple atem is attached a little e
red ribbon bow, which may easily be c
caught in the teeth, and when the apple c
is lifted from the water a slip of paper n
is discovered thrust into a slash cut in
one side near the top. On these slips of ?
paper are inscribed various pertinent and 5
pleasant quotations applicable to the dis- ?
Some of the new conceits for Halloween
decoration are illustrated. All these
pictures have been made trom photographs d
old days the fur coat is seen on the
itreet over little frocks of cashmere or
nohair, but on the bright, clear days of
vhich New York sees so many?when the
nercury hovers between forty and fifty,
ny lady prefers a smart coat and skirt
iuit with a handsome fur neckpiece and
nuflf to the more cumbersome fur wrap.
* *
The fur . coats this season are most
graceful affairs, built on rather narrow
[nes, but roomy enough at the shoulders
o l>e very comfortable over wool frocks.
[*he models for day wear have coat
leeves finished with wide cuffs, and huge
.hawl collars of the fUr or of some conrasting
pelt The very smartest Persian
coats are severely plain in effect,
he richness of the fur being cons dered
iistinction enough without an added
rimming of contrasting pelt. Sometimes
striped border trimming Is contrived by
.rranging strips of the, fur in opposite
Erections, as in one of today's photorapha
which shows a Dreeoll coat of
;enuine sea! in mantle style with a deep
hawl collar, cuffs and border trimming
if the seal striping just described. The
astening is at the left side, below the
caist. two large buttons covered with the
ealekin he ng fastened under an ornanent
of brown silk cord. The richness of
his beautiful coat is apparent at a
dance and no added garniture of skunk,
ipossum or other pelt could add to the
listinction and beauty of the garment as
t is. in ts simple, perfect good taste.
In striking contrast to this beautiful
Dreeoll coat is another sealskin model.
1-V.ic nnot ic f'JT ? T* > i, t. c/vi l- ,einh unH nl'fl. [
entious in style than the simple Drrecoli
vrap. hut it lacks the dignity and ex- f
luisite distinction of the Paris-made gar- j
nent. The iines are in accordance with !
ashion's mandate for fur wraps of this
haracter, but at the foot of the coat
here is an eccentric, though modish, itirnn'ng
note. Around the front of the garnent
is an "apron" of undyed muskrat,vhile
at the hack deep silk fringe boilers
the coat, the fringe h?ir,g set 011 bo- i
ow a hand of the sealskin, upon which \
ire huge cord buttons and loops. The
hawl collar mid ide cuffs are edged
vith the undyed muskrat, which, by the
>ye. is a very attractive new fur much
avored by Paquin. This fur lias a graysh
cast with soft brown stripes and is
'ke the Austra'ian opossum without its
due color. To match the coat just den-rihed
there is a tonne of the muskrat.
rinimed, at the left side with an Bast
ndian ornament of colored beads.
* *
Only the very rich woman now can aford
a coat of teal sealskin or genuine
nink, and as for rable. its price is alnost
prohibitive now that tne Russian
luma has forbidden the trapping of sades
for three years. Sealskin is a most
wice as costly as it was two years ago
ind mink has advanced almost as much
iroportlonately. Even the once-despised
kunk, known to the puiite world variousy
as leutre, brown marten and Alaska
able, is 7a per cent more costly than <
t was two years ago, and the common '
ittle coon may value h s skin at in- !
tead of 70 cents. Fortunately, however, j
or those of us who may not afford to i
1 ' 1 C 1 ^11.. AMI- u*4n I
pena lllUUbcinus U1 uunain u^un uiii ?n.er
furs, there aie many less costly vaieties,
some of them imitations of the
.ristocrat.c seal, fox and sable, made by
lying pleb.an beasts of .the wood and
lelde. For example, uyed raccoon looks
nuch like sea?; thibet goat when cleverly
reated is hard to tell from the extremely .
ostly white Sitka fox; red fox of the
ields is dyed to resemble his aristocratic
ousins; coney looks much like ermine;
Australian opossum is almost as pretty as
he rare and costly chinchilla?and so on.
Jink is one of the furs that have never
teen successfully imitated. There are
lOrrible fur neckpiece and muff sets sold
s "mink" which are merely marmot
kins ftreaked with a paint brush and
rhich deceive nobody. The "brook mink"
old by many good furriers is really
luskrat, and there is a Japanese mink
hat is so cleverly treated that it de- J
elves even the dealers. In genuine mink '
he black streak goes clear through the
ur to the skin. This fur is very beauti
ul when new, but it soon fades ana
[>ses Its depth of tone, taking on tawny,
ellow streaks that are ugly. It is Just
,ow not as fashionable as the darker
irown sealskin and the soft gray-brown
aoleskin which is used for draped evenng
* *
The furs par excellence for dressy
vening and afternoon limousine wraps
re ermine and moleskin. The latter has
oine into favor within the past two seaons
and is now very fashionable. The
oft, lovely grayish brown of moleskin
aatches no other fabric exactly and yet
his adorable fur seems to harmonize
kith all fabric colorings. From a hunIred
and fifty to two hundred skins are
equired to make an ordinary wrap, and
or the voluminous affairs draped in
rlental fashion many more are required,
.loleskin is so soft and pliable, that it
nay be draped as readily as velvet, and
t is usually made up in mantle rather
han coat style, with gracefully draped
leeves and other oriental features. A i
landsome moleskin wrap with trimmings <1
if skunk is illustrated. Another wrap,
lisplayed in a 5th avenue furrier's winlow
this week, is in perfectly plain
nantle style, and to accompany it there
ire a long, soft moleskin scarf, lined :
vith gray silk, and a huge flat muff that |
night be a second scarf doubled over ,1
md softly lined. Both scarf and muff are
rimmed witli long chenille fringe in the
shade of the moleskin. '
Frmine. of course, is the fur of furs '
or an evening wrap?tf one can afford,
he luxury. If not, one may have white
?f real Halloween favors, ready In the
hops for this year's fun and frolic on
he night of witches, cats and hobgoblins,
iroomstkks and bats have not been for;otten,
and the jolly hobgoblins are all
tullt to hold candy somewhere In their
nteriors. The Halloween ghost is made
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jf white crepe paper wrapped round a
leeorated hazlenut, and beside the ghost
s a pumpkin-faced shell for ice cream or
\indy. The graceful wand for a Halloween
cotillon is trimmed with green crepe
aaper leaves and swimming pumpkins. I
aJso made of crepe paper in yellow
Silver Amulets That Contain Sachet.
ItlJY lady wears now slung about her
neck on a slender silver chain a
lainty. round ornament that looks like a
lat plaque, but which is really a very
hin silver case containing circular sheets
if absorbent paper perfumed with her
avorlte odor. The silver cases are beauifully
chased and the metal is pierced in
ilagree effect to allow the perfume to
scape. These new amulets are worn
lutside the blouse and sometimes the
liain is long enough to allow the silver
laque to swing just outside the front
if the coat. Of course, the chain and
ierfume case may be as handsome as one
leslres, and some of the chains are set
kdth pearls in most effective fashion.
A decided vogue for black velvet and
lark navy blue velvet is noticeable.
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SejalsRin is Apraised
Kow inBich striped Ef fee
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:one> trimmed with ermine tails, to give !
he ermine effect. White fox trimmings i a
tre not now as fash.onable with ermine b
is the brilliant orange fox, which was ! e
>ne of the Paul Poiret enthusiasms last i-w
winter in Paris. This "orange"' fox is j o
really our humble American fox of the j c
lelds transformed by fashionable favor
nto a distinguished pelt. Poiret selects : t
he reddest and most brilliant fox skins v
ind uses them for trimming purposes on j o
white fur wraps and on his remarkable p
jrientai gowns. An illustration shows one , y
if his white ermine evening wraps with t
inmmings cf orange fox. a
Till. rj
*--v viie s mun me opirpr i^is a
season, but fortunately these huge muffs , t
C*XiCBPT in very few Instances, there j
should be no age line in fashions,
rhere is, or should be, a difference in col- n
>rs. and to a certain extent in materials, t
?ut not in styles. On the whole, the t
styles of the day are quite as well suited ^
:o women of one age as of another. . v
In regard to colors, a young girl can p
wear the most startling, trying shades a
md carry them off more or less success- a
'ully, but an older woman has to con- n
sider what is suitable and becoming,, and j
hoose colors that will help her. She j e
?hould avoid bright, harsh shades that
:all for a young, fresh complexion on the
me hand, and the drab tones and dull v
slacks that suggest the old lady on the t
)ther. Dark colors are more becoming p
:o stout figures than light shades that ^
lave a diffusing quality and make a
ivoman look larger than she is. The stout a
woman should never wear all white, or
ight pinks and blues, or yellows. s
Soft, indefinite colors suit an older t
woman better than brighter shades. They t
should avoid all light colors except white, c
aearl. silver and oyster gray, any shade f
if -n/iafarin or nansv color, and
black and white for their gowns and a
iresses. For street suits older women t
should keep pretty close to very dark s
blues, blacks and dark grays. t
* * t
If you wear chiffons and veilings in j
your evening dresses, be sure that they i
are weighted properly with fringe or J
beads, or embroidery, so that they will ! 1
fall in straight, limp lines about your
figure. The white fichu that is so smart
on afternoon and evening gowns is a
style that is perfectly suitable for a mld31e-aged
.woman, unless she happens to
be stout. It is hardly a style that looks
well on a large figure.
A coat suit of black and white striped J
serge and a black hat trimmed with white j
wings Is one of the handsomest outfits j
for a woman of mature years. Black and
white fabrics are always stylish, but
care must be taken not to select the
noticeable designs, which attract more
attention than even brilliant color
schemes. A modest black-and-white plaid
Is suitable for any age. but a large, pronounced
plaid is too loud for a conservative
woman. The same rule holds for
stripes. There are striped goods in most
?xquisite taste, and others may be called
stunning, but they will not he chosen by
the woman who does not want her
clothes to have a sort of a sign-board
* *
Proper black and white is always a
safe purchase. The combination of black
and white in which the black is worn
bver the white Is among the smartest
color tones. An embroidered black chiffon
over white satin is often seen in the
handsome imported gowns, and black
chiffon waists over white silk or satin
are among the most popular models.
An elderly woman seen recently at a
reception wore a most becoming costume j
of gray and pink, which set off the beauty i
of her nearly white hair and gave the |
faintest shade of pink to her cheeks, j
which was a great deal prettier than any
rouge effect she might have tried. The j
skirt of her gown was of gray cloth, the
bodice of gray chiffon over gray silk, j
with a small yoke of lace and narrow j
piping of pink where the yoke and bodice j
joined. Over this she wore a long even- |
1 ?rl?K a I
Ing coat or gray uroauuviu ??rcu **in* ?.
soft pink silk.
A RATHER odd effect is gained by the
style which calls for one color and
kind of material for one side of the waist,
while the other side ts of a material quite
different in both shade and texture, the
two sections running across the bodice
diagonally. If a woman had too little
cloth for her waist and fashioned it in
this way from necessity it would be a calamity.
but now that it is done with a
purpose, and that purpose to walk meekly
in the footsteps of Dame Fashion, it
nakes all the difference in the world. We
can feel quite at ease if we are blue on
>ne side and gray on the other. We are
n fashion if we have a beautiful blue
Bead garniture on the left of us and a
fray silk on the right of us. It will be a
clever ruse for the woman who is mak- I
ng over an old dress and Is short of rna:erlal.
Many of the newest gowns have
ileeves of two materials. In one beauti'ul
evening gown the sleeves of pink mestaline
were cut away in front, and
;hrough this open oval space was seen
;he embroidered net. On some gowns al nost
the entire upper part of the sleeve
was cut away and filled with a sort of
attice work of silk which was twisted in
cords, each interstice being joined with a
fold sequin.
Ermine arid 1
re flat rather than round and are so j
uilf that the? are wonderfully light and
a-sy to carry. .The barrei-stiaped mufT
.as not a success for street use. and
nly a few .of these muffs, designed for
i-iriage use. are seen.
All the new neckpieces are lavlshl) j
rimmed with brushes and paws, and one :
.-ears her neckpiece girlishly tossed over
ne shoulder. Prim, fasten-in-front ne< kdeoes
are relegated to matrons of mature '
ears. For use vyith tailored street suits i
he favorite pelts are fox in white, blue
nd black, pointed fox. fisher, fitch, lynx
nd wolf. Black Persian lamb rr?tnlses j
o be extremely fashionable later in the !
Marabou and 0
II Iff ARABOU, ostrlcli and marabou, and !
1^/1 ostrich alone are the feathers
used in the latest neckpieces and
uuffs, and not for many a season have
hese accessories proved as smart and atractive
as now. Marabou is now so
leautifully manipulated that sets of it are j
ery often preferred to those of fur. eseciatly
as they.may consistently be worn
11 the year round. Furs in midsummer
Jways look out of place, but not so
tarabou. or other feather neckwear. It
i light in weight, soft, becoming and lnxpensive.
A square collarette of white
narabou is bordered in black marabou, i
rhile a boa or white marabou has an os- J
rich-blue finish. Another favorite fancy
s to have muffs and collars constructed !
rom alternating bands of shirred chiffon
.nd marabou.
The new ostrich boas are charming and
oft, for instead of the old short ostrich
he boas of this season are made of the
ied ostrich, and most frequently unurled,
producing a wonderful fringed efect
so fashionable just now.
: , AJ ? i i _ _ _ j i a
ror v etna.Liuii mtse uua.55 aim ii?n?:a
ire made up with other delicate things,
hus giving a pleasing contrast. For intance,
one was made of pale blue osrich,
which parted here and there to
ihow smail pink rosebuds made of two
ones of chiffon. Another, a beagtiful
>lack one about two and a half yards
ong, was made like a collarette, and had
n the center of the back three small ;
>lumes tipped with white. The ends were !
inished with heavy t>lack silk tassels.
Another exquisite collarette was made
>f five blending shades of peach pink
There is something very "ta
ed today. It is of elephant gray
back and front over bretelles m
feta. The yoke and collar of gi
ing "let through" the blouse fr
of the same lace is finished by ;
turning forward over the bib are
of the pretty sleeves. The wais
of shirring and the skirt, closing
of taffeta similar to those on tfi
np II
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Red Fox .Poiret's
Hsvor?ite Combination.
season, hut just now the brown and
gray furs arc in higher favor than black.
A novelty in the fur line is a goodlooking
coat and skirt suit made of
b!a? k broadtail?cheaper models are of
tine black caracul the skirt having the
prescribed narrow linos and tip- c< at
being a smart hip-length affair 1awntUv
out and trimmed witu broad bla-'k silk,
braid. Simettmes a little vest of oriental
embroidery Is let into the front of the
coat. To match this fur suit there are
accessories In the way of toque, muff ,
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lamb or caracul, and trimmed with braid
or oriental embroidery.
strich Feathers*
chiffon, each overlapping the other tw?
inches from the lower edge of the underlying
piece. A two-inch ostrich fringe
edged each layer of chiffon The muft
with this collarette was of almost gigantic
proportions and made of shirred chiffon,
banded at intervals with ostrich
In hat trimmings feathers take the lead.
A great deal of paradise Is seen moil
some of the more expensive hats, and
it is used in quantiti-f* when used at all.
Ostrich plumes and half plumes, uncuried
plumes, the new small tips and many
two-tone plumes and demi-plumes art
used on the liner models. High pointed
crowns made of vulture feathers resemble
to some extent the banished heron
aigrette. Masses of these feathers are
used in an upstanding position all around
the high crowns of the smaller hats and
are in gray, tan, brown, black and white.
To Clean Black Woolen Skirt.
TJ1VE cents' worth of soap tree hark
* will clean a black woolen skirt. Put
the bark into one gallon of water and set
it on the stove, letting it boil ten minutes;
then strain and pour the strained
water into a tub containing siifflcient
warm water to wash the skirt. Rub the
skirt thoroughly in this water. IJo not
use the board, but rub the skirt between
the hands. Put the bark strainings bark
on the stove with cold water and heat it
Just warm enough for rinsing water
Rinse the skirt in tills and hang it out
to dry. When it is nearly dry take it
from the line and iron it on the wrong
aide while it Is still damp.
Wi .
" JJ
iking ' about the model sketch- ,
cashmere with a bib effect in
ade of two tones of gray tafray,
lace have the effect of beont
where a pendant triangle
a silk tassel. The little pieces
: of the taffeta, as are the cuffs
it line is marked by two rows 1
on the right, has a little rever %
le blouse. J

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