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CHIC BLOUSES OF LINEN AND COTTON VOILE
WHAT w< uld women do without the I'fns bio separate blouses that ha\<? b .rst on our sum mer horizon with chnrmlng Ifnes, unusual ?>imb!r.ftt'"n* and a jr-atl fylng varldy <??' materials and 'Styles? America h;)* nlwnv? been sta*vh In Its jipproval o tin' bl < . ? Faris las fallen In line an<l now offer-; Pom? stunning exploitations iff the practical idea In <1 ress. Idneng anil rotton vo'lw standi fare meat In the list of fabrics for smart houses. They are oool, art' equally jrood-!ookirg in either the trimmed or p'aln styles and wear with unusually pood results. <>n the extreme "eft of our interesting ' n# Is a blouse with the new "apache" opening in front. is is quite new and gives a semlnegligee and very cool finish at the top I ale pink linen Ls ^ed. liutfons of pink crystal and linen ? orded buttonholes tr'm th<j front. The ;>>!?. collar Is of ehe?r hemstitched .nen and eyelet ??r? ? * roldery. Tta^k of r! '? v. -i an exploitation of the trlnmu . !' ? 1 ? n blouse In fine coti.Ti -tie insertion Is applied in two sTi|?? .??. the front and In mi e\; ? i . !:? ,? t run the shoulder. I'rochettd b rtnns also are used, while fine tuck . ? fullness at tho top of the j ok" The: ? Is a suggestion of a pufT at the .'leeves. which are finished with \l a lace frill. A pleated collar of tec* heads the round top. / . Fine tucks run by hand ?re the deoo ratlon of the third design. Tills Is made of sheer linen and shows the revived bishop's sleeve. Tucks head the sleeves and form the cuffs. A collar of linen is edg?il with lace, and a bow of blue ?atln glv?s a touch of color In front. It Is simplicity Itself, yet distinctive. Y\'hat ; mor? c<v. I woman wish? I The holder of the n? wears a charm Irjr bl<?t;.s* of voile in pale blue. One ln?-h t'.- ks forr:. the front and back. A f .i 1 sleeve 1? attached to the extended joke of tucks. Deep turned-back cuffs are edged with a frill of lace. A collar <; il*e f. a.l ,'.v Ir. front Is finished with a , e ruffle, and a ;*>* pleat down the '~rn: ha* t>j;e buttons and a double rrlil f r a cl arming and easily applied trimming. s'iP.-; ? It* ' r^n used for the flfth ^ delist l!>?re n?* iln are t :r-l<s that ex- j ten i over to ; ? p of the .?>?v-a. A small t- tr, mded u* the back. Is ??Wed v ? ' - : a e. 'Hie tie Is of Htrawhc-r-- pit.k si.k Tho 6'.eevee fit ?nug.y an i have inset bandi of lace above tho i-tiffs. a pink belt repeats the note Introduced by t:i? little tie. lAst Is a dael^n In sheer '.Inen. The coilar Is shaped to firm square tabs over the shoulders and points in back and frorit. The clus is embroidered in ?> ul oj s and eyelets. a <->.!r.a blue being -*<d To make the collar more assured I by the ornamentation o? the blonse. a finely plewt^d frill of llu-i Is add?*d to the e>ige. Hlff>ves ure finishel with em broidered t iimeil-back r:!Tj snd are comfortable three-quarter length. I?nj; and short e.eeve.s, high and low cut tops. fullness or tlKhtneew. f jeks or ?iain Th*?e are the feature* tluit spell that comforting word, variety. For variety means that every woman will And satisfaction in th? ?ieajton'a offer Itig The ho'i.o drej>nm'cker nee*l have n?> Qiialrr* in constructing a blouse for summer. With a ^o?m1 working pattern end th?*e hints fron, the greate* blouse oftv in the world, sue cess await;, her efforts FADS AND FASHIONS. Exceptionally lovely is a paraaol of white chiffon, prlntt d in y uded pink roue*, and llnon with v hit. mousHeline <b ftoie dni' m<1?' of tli- paras?>l is dxorat ?-<1 with a large butti-rtly of black chaii 1 illy lace. Th?> #-?lge in tiniidx'd with u narrow band of bia^ i\ >clv?-t ribbou. "I'affeta parasoki of plain ?-olor carry tlorai and Persian bordt rs, which for the FRENCH FASHION NOTES PARIS, June 6. WITH the first warm days comes the desire to spend a holiday In the country. Gay little parties motor to Versailles or Fontalnbleau, where they enjoy the gardens and an appetizing lunch at one of the quaint old ir.ns, wh*?ro the tables are spread beneath the trees. At Versailles the children are al lowed to romp with perfect freedom upon the greensward where the court of Ix>uis XIV once held its fet^-s. They gather about the pond, lousing bread to the carp. For centuries these large fls-h are sup posed to hare lived, witnessing the many changes as time passed. The' mothers and children are smart ly but comfortably attired. One attractive suit worn was of dark blue pongee. The short Jacket was semifltted and fastened far to the left side with two large buttons of pearl. T]ia skirt, cut double, tho top falling within eight inches of the lower, was well tailored and trimmed with four peurl buttons. A pretty Russian blouse suit of tan colnred linen had the collar, cufTs and belt of dark brown linen. Buttons of brown horn fastened tho coat. The skirt was perfectly plain, with the ex ception of a stitched band, ten inches in width, at the extreme bottom. A smart hat of brown irtraw trimmed with ribbon completed this costume. Charming was a child's frock of nat ural-colored linen. The short-wa:.st(?d bodice had a round Dutch neck. This and the short sleeves were scalloped and buttonhole stitched with dark blue. On the front of the bodice was em broidered a simple but effective design. The skirt was pleated and finished with a de?p hem. A smart little hai of dark blue straw adorned by a chou moot part are wide ribbon. The nr?*at?-st assortment of Color schemes prevails, from light, delicate shtulee to *.iibU ;?*1 shadowy unci", and to ri' h oriental color ings. Pleats are appearing In the skirts of cloth and linen. Small bows of black velvet give a de cidedly chic touch to the lingerie gown. They dot the fK-hu or appear intervals around the flounces; again they appear! .<n sleeves instead of buttons, running I of pleated ribbon, was worn with this frock. Decidedly Lycoming to a girl of 14 was a frock of blue-and-wbite striped ging fcn -n. The bodice had a guimpe of ailorer embroidery, with a round yoke and cuffs of plain blue. The skirt, forming a high waist line, was slashed in front to disclose a girdle of the plain blue. Beer has designed many stunning suits for street wear of light-weght cloth. Thev are perfect in cut and beautifully tailored. <>::e ad a pirated skirt of black-and whlte checked cloth, w!th a jacket of plain black. The collar and cuffs were of white fatln. The skirt of another model was of black satin, with a jacket of bei^e cloth. Black h.-itin was used for the collar and cuffs. The milliners continue to trim won derfully fascinating hats of leghorn Straw and lace. Flat hats designed by Marie Louise have at; individuality not to be found elsewhere. One model of leghorn had a round, fiat crown, about which was fastened a band of shirred black velvet. This also formed a border on the brim. Buuches of tiny roses were placed at the side and upon the brim. A large hat of white straw had a j pleating of black chantilly lace to trim I It. Sapphire blue ribbon velvet was J used for the bow adorning the front. Scarlet poppies trimmed a hat of egru lace. Many striking combinations of color ing are used for afternoon wraps. Taupe charmeusm lined with cerise satin made a strikingly attractive coat to wear orer sheer frocks. Emerald green and violet satin were combined in another wrap, while one from tho wrist to the elbow on the under wide. I'ong jMovra of kid and suede are elab orately .mbroiderid and sometimes set with jewels. Knlfe-kilUd frills are seen on taffeta gowns and coats. rv>pi>er color Is frequently combined with dark blue l.-'nrn (.? . i pear quite heavy, ;?1 of corbeau blue satin had the -collar, cuffs and lining: of old gold. Very lovely are the garden party gowns displayed by Buzenet. The bodice of rose-and-gray change able Bilk gown was veiled with gray moupsellne de sole. The yoke and cuffs were of cream lace and the ellghtly gathered skirt trimmed with narrow pleatings. A charming gown of strawberry pink charmeuse had a wide girdle, with long sash ends of corbeau blue mousseline de sole. Pretty dresses for morning war are made of linen. , A shirtwaist suit of khaki colored linen had bands of bright blue rough linen as trimming. Rough pir:k linen used to trim a child's frock of white cotton voile. A collarette to wear with a white linen gown was of strawberry pink linen embroidered with white dot*. The edge was finished with a nar row pleating of lace. Lingerie collars and odd buttons are the only trimming required for the one piece dress of linen, silk or serge. Sheer llne-n and batiste, embroidered or plain, are used upon gowns of s41k, satin or chameuse. ELOISE. iHEJ modish woman who desires to be Individual must have the pan nier effect Introduced upon her gowns. This new note has met with an en couraging reception. The panniers are not bunched upon the hips, aa of old, but the draperies descend to the hem of the gown, where they are caught up with a handsome ornament of some variety. Some few gowns have the panniers looped up well toward the back. most resembling Panama; In medium vnight and again exquisitely sheer, call ing for Jace medallions and frothy little Valenciennes ruffles on the edge. The apache collar has a rival In tho modified Medici collar. The ornamental fichu, in its various guises, plays a prominent part In the summer wardrobe. T7elts nf tooled leather are considered ?..".art v. far v. '.'.h !in-n ?1m. The* The Pannier are dark and barbaric in design. The buckles and ornaments are of old Egyp tian workmanship. Many ribbon-trimmed hats are being shown In the smart shops. Tiny flowers of satin are dotted over tome dressy skirt panels. Parasols of white listen are more popu lar than ever this season. In -p. ? of .7ianj n:ni ry i ? the con * trary, skirts still remain tight, some so much so that they have lo be split up at the hem to allow freedom for walking. Bunches of grass are very popular as hat trimmings this year. Touches of brilliant coloring appear upon the majority of coat suits. Many of the lingerie rowtij haw broad seniles i>f briu lit -colored .???ilk. \ :? ;> n.-- u? c - FASHIONABLE COIFFURE^ THE modern woman has a senss of the fttness of things. 3h? nfrpr dis plays tho bad taste to wear a dress erf a definitely antique period and a I coiffure some centuries less anrfettt, A Louis XVI costume was worn at a recent dance. The hair was arranged after the manner of the tlniea. PaKed In the center. It was crisply waved and brought down to the ears. A curl hung from one slda, resting upon the ahoulder. Many young girls still cling to ths simple, demurs manner of arranging ths hair. The hair is partsd In ths middle and ?o>ftly coiled at ths back of ths head. This makes it possible to wear ths close-fitting little bonnets of ths quaint old-fashioned 1830 modes. Others part the hair from ths fors bead to the nape of ths nsck and. hav ing plaited it at ths sides, wind It over the ears. In the evening this extremely simple coiffure Is adorned with a wreath of tiny buds and flowers, passing around the head over the plaits. The present fashion Is to expose ths whole of a bandeau or wreath. Instead of threading It through ths hair. A r Th? pretty dresses exploiting the fashions of the second empire oall for a coiffure with bobbins curl? at either side and the back, hair coned high on top. A. fancy comb, jeweled, of amber ?* , tortoise*hell, la worn With tWa coiffure. I Fabrics Which Will Wash IX THIS season of tub tRMlu tt fa a good thing to be aware of all the washable fabrics. Materials which will not shrink or fade when brought in cootaot with | water. Among the more dreeay fabrics are tbe cotton voiles and marquisettes. These may be had In stripes, cross-bar effects, flower and conventional designs. Pique In the broad flat wale, so popu lar in corduroy last season. Is smart for tailored suits. This launders beautifully i and should not be starched. Madras -with colored hairline stripes will be | fashionable. Tbe rough, loosely worsn pongees wash successfully and are alwaya good style. Every one knows the sxoellent wash- i | r.: > qualities possessed by gingham. Frocks made of this material for chil ; dren are durable and smart looking. 1 A corn-colored background Is more prac ' tlcal than the white. A satin-finished fabrlo of cotton m foulard designs is one of this season's new materials. This makes an excellent substitute for the silk In warm weather. Tbe brown and white or dark blue com I blned with white are the best ooloAk Of the sheer materials, lawn, organdie swlss and dotted mull are splendid for j tub frocks. rise taffeta, embroidered with large white coin inputs. Most of the really long sleeves on even ing dresses are partly transparent. Apron panniers which extend over one liip and partly across the back are often of striped material, with slartlies of hand embroidery. l<ony ."epnrate mats of white ratine ? !.i;ui<1 rvfff '>f black-and-white: 'i . hipcord. 1 MAKING JELLIES. BRKAKFART MnwtwniM til Nmtir*'.. iVrpil. Omelet. Whole tVh^it Cn-im <*?<ree. niVNKU Anohrtrtr* with l^inon. Onion S'?u|>. Olltep. ??f 14iint> *?n with <%?irroi? IVhk nml Onion* Pot ?t.?n IHnrteilrni >"*l?<t. Oirr?nt Pi^. H!rk C<4T-v SfPPF.K S?r?t.>s? FHrilM ITiin Hr.?wn S?nd w1i?tw??. Klacfc F.w?t. IV*. ALON"<; with the other gastronomic deliKht* of June rotn* the cur rants. red. white and black, and the housekeeper who not onl> makes abundant u?* of ?h*? fresh fruit hut stores the surplus awa> for wintry day* to come is sure to be thankful for her industry and fore thought. Currant Jelly. And first of all the very best Jelly that ran he made. ?*urrants for Jelly should not be overripe nor should they be gathered Just after a rain if a c lear. tii m Jelly Is <le?ired. (rnr grandmothers used to say that currants wouldn't jell after July 4. and there 1* no use takln* chan.es on her methods born of e*perlence If we can get .urrants now. Select a ?'leai sunshiny day for the work of jelly-mak ing and be sure that all the Jelly Jars, glasses, covers and preserving bowls ami kettles are not only superficially but scientifically clean. Po too the kitchen and the dress of the workers. 1 he kit. lien lis no place for discarded iln. ry. sucn I as old stufT dresses, tea gowns ana kimonos Plain, clean cotu>n gown* and ! aprons with a cap to hold flying locks in ; place make a costume appropriate to tiie 1 work In hand. ! The requisites for the work are a goo I , quality stone pot or por.elain lined kettle, an earthen bowl of good sl.:e into which i the fruit julco may drip, shallow tins for heating the sugar, a long-handled wooden spoon, a <'<>arse Jelly bag. paraffin to cover the Jelly before putting away, an?i plenty of Jelly glasses with glass covers 1 if possible. It is not necessary to stem ; the currants, though they should be plck^ led over, all bits of leaves removed and then thoroughly washed and drained. 1 This last process must not be slighted, a the ravages of the currant worm have made a frequent dilating with hellebore necessary. Equal parts of red and white currants, or red raspberries and currants, two parts of the former to one of the latter make a delicately colored and flavored jelly. The raspberry alone lacks the gelatinous quality and pleasing a- Id that distinguishes the currant, l'lace the cui - rants in a stone jar or the preserving kettle, and set In a large pan of water As the currants commi n<-e to heat mash with a large wooden pestle until reduced to a pulp. Take the Jar ofT the range and scooping up the pulp put In a Jell> bag to drain. This is best done the nlKlit before the jelly Is to be made, as that allows time for the juiee to drip by Itself and the Jelly will be clearer than when It has to be squeezed through the ba^ When the juice Is all extracted, measuie out by pints and return to the kettle Take as many pints or pounds of sugar as there are pints of juice, and place on the shallow tins to heat iti the oven, tak ing care they do not tret hot enough to discolor the sugar. Poll the Juice Just twenty minutes from the time It com mences to boil and throw the healed sugar in. stirring rapidly all the time. As ?oon as It is ail dissolved, remove tt ? spoon let the Juice just come to the boil again, and tak^ it once from the fire Fill jelly glasses thnt have been rolled in hot water, and as soon as cool coat with melted paraffin or a mixture of one third paraffin to two-thirds wax, or seHl with white of egg spread on paper or with sterilized cotton. Keep in a cool, dry place. Black Currant Jelly. After stripping from the stems, mash in the preserving kettle with a wooden masher, then ad.I one cupful of water for each quart of currants. <"over close ly and set over a moderate fire. When the currants have reac.hed 1he boiling point, strain through a Jolly ba? To each pint of juice allow a jHMind of loaf sugar. Put the sugar with the Juice in a t lean preserving kettle, stir until well mixed and the siiRar dissolved. th<?n cook ten minutes. As the juice of the currants is thick it comes soon to a jellj Overcooking makes it tough and ropv Bed Currant Jelly Without Cooking. Wash, mash, without stemming and strain through a sterilized ??loth. Weigh the Juice and to each pound allow a pound of sugar. Mix together, stirring until the sugar is dissolved, place in glasses and stand in a window whero the hot sun mav strike them for at least five daya Cover and set in a cool place. Bed Currant Conserve. Crush the currants and mix with-wugar, allowing pound to pound. Put Into steril ized glass Jars, and set in a boiler or ket tle of hot water, protecting from contact with the t>ottom of the kKtle or other jars <bv coils of rope or wisps of hay Bring to a boll, cook ten minutes, seal and put away. All the uncooked perserves ratal in spected occasionally, to see If there ase signs of fermentation. Should thope be, cook up the contents of the jars and reseaL Currant Marmalade. This may be made of either reA^w black currants, etrip from fl* wash and drain, then put In kettle and cook and mash. Put through a fine sieve that will prevent the seeds from going through; then for every pound of the pulp allow a pound of sugar for red car rants, or three-quarters of a pound for the white or black. Cook the pulp twenty-five minutes, add the sugar. stJr and cook until a drop <** * 0001 saucer retains Its shape and does not spread. Put into pots and cover when cool. Currant and Cherry Preserves. Put three quarts stemmed and washed currants in the preserving kettle and cook until Vie Juiee begins to exude. Crush and strain through cheesecloth to ! get all the Juice. Have in readiness twelve ; preserving kettle with the Juice of the i quarts cherries, pitted, and put into the ' currants and eight pounds of sugar. Heat ! slowly to the boiling point, skim and sim mer fifteen minutes, or until the cherries ! look clear. Pour into small jars or glasses and f*eal. If more acid Ik den r^d half the quantity of sugar may be used. Black Currant Jam. Place six pounds black currant* In a saucepan and put the saucepan in a larger one of boiling water. Cnvor and boil slowly two or t?ire* hours or till the fruit is broken, then pour into a nI-v*. which should be fin.* enough to keep h?l k the seeds, a little at a time, having a bowl underneath; rub th? currants with * wooden potato masher through th? ?leve' then measure the pulp, allowing for every pint one pound of sugar; plae.. the currant pulp in a kettle over the tiro Ynd boil twenty minutes; add the suKar. stir and boll till a drop when put on a nlate will retain the shap* of a l>e?d without spreading then till Into small EMMA PAD LKX" K gT EI - El?1 UJ?