Evening star. [volume], October 26, 1913, Page 8, Image 74

About Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972

Image provided by: Library of Congress, Washington, DC

                
? MINARET TUNIC PROMISES TO BE IMPROVED FOR AMERICANS BY ELIMINATING THE WHALEBONE
ill > . ? " I
;?! ? "i ir-|v>;n! r1. '- of I h>- s';,ir.
I'AItlS. October 11. till3.
Tlll.lti: is no doubt about/tiie suc
eess of the minaret tunic. It is
ti? stay, ;it least for .six
mouthy. Whether it remains
loiter;- than that i.s a con unci rum
that ^ou'd have to be answered by. a
I'llphie oiacle. Several new things
have been learned about it since it began
its meteoric career in July. These are
tor its betterment.
The Americans l ope that the first step
forward in improvement is to lake the
whalebone out of the hem. Few women
fancy themselves going around the
streets or the drawing rooms with a min
iature hoop bouncing up and down
around their knees. The very thought of
getting ii|to a street car with one or try
ing to place one's self comfortably in a
theater seat on a crowded night fright
ens one.
It suggests untold discomfort and mor
tification. One woman in a ballet tunic
in a street car would be bad enough, but
imagine a dozen:
However, the whalebone in the tunic
?was a fanciful interpretation after all. It
was copied direct trom the play called
"The Minaret'" and was gi\en to women
as a toy with which they eould play,
Kven l?oucet has this wired tunic in its
eccentric form, hut the coloring of his
ii is so entrancing that there is no
<loubt many American women will adopt
it, minus tiic whalebone.
T *?*
The narrow skirt of this evening frock
is of gold brocade, slightly slashed at the
left side in order to give the wearer a
ehanei to use her ankles. The tra'n is a
pointed selvedge of the material, for
many of the new evening gowns use only
wic width of the material on the bias at
the f outline, and then grow exceedingly
full as they gel to the knees.
Above this skirt i* a ballet tunic of
smoky yellow ehitfon. which has a deep
Irmgc of deep blue ostrich feathers.
T|,e blouse i.s a loose shirt waist of the
ye.low ehiffon with a broad yoke across
the back, to which the lower part of the
bodice is gathered and which forms the
straight sleeves that fall almost to the
ell>ow. The neck is cut in a deep, loose
V that stands away from tiie figure, is
also vhaleboned and edged with a stand
ing ruche of the blue ostrich feathers.
Of course the American woman will de
sire the whalebone taken out of the tu
nic at once, and while L>ou.-et is willing
to do this, he knows that it will spoil the
entire effect of the gown if the ehiffon
is allowed to fall limpl> o;i the brocaded
skirt: so a compromise may be made
with the use of a thick cord.
* *
Doucet has done some very artistic
things, by the way, with this new sil
houette that women have introduced by
means of the tunic. He gives a very
oriental touch to it. and, incidentally,
makes it more oriental by using a draped
yoke of satin over that part of the tunic
which otherwise would spring out from
the waist if it were not held down.
It is this tlare at the waist to which j
the majority of American women object, j
They do not mind what dimensions are;
given to them just be.ow the hips, but it>
hist on having gowns lit closely at and ,
below the waist.
This desire is catered to in the soft,
broad belts that aie used at the back of
loose coats, and are pulled down over the
hips in' loose bo<Jfrces: and this idea of
Doucet's to flatten the first six inches
of the tunic by a well manipulated yoke
that looks like a sash, is probably* the
best of the new methods of dealing with
the accepted silhouette.
fhere was danger that this new fold
ed yoke might be too close a copy of
the oriental sash that pervaded Ameri
ca last year, and which became an
eyesore to many. Hut. so far, this
yoke as I?oucet uses it is satisfactory.
It has no ends or loops or bows, it
is made of satin, is slightly folded
around the figure for a depth of six
<>r eight inches. and is out away in
front and usually edged with a band
of eolorcd crystals if the gown is the
kind that can stand this ornamenta
tion.
?>
i- ?>
When tlie dressmakers began using
tlie lluring tunic they continued to
drape the skirt up in the front and
I back, as they had been doing all sum
mer. They merely mounted the tunic
on top of this. Tiut after a wee!: or
two of experimenting they decided to
omit this particular movement of dra
pery because it was likely to create
awkwardness at the front of the waist
line, and there is quite enough awk
wardness there to answer for as it is.
Tt was easy for a French woman, or
| man. to evolve a skirt which had all
the appearance of drapery without any
visible means of obtaining it. but it is
not easy for the American either to
make it or describe it. Even with a
| pattern in one's hand, it may not be
' a simple matter for a skilled American
i skirt fitter to accomplish that freedom
i of movement, combined with narrow -
j ness of line, which the new French
i skirt has.
i It is not strictly new. after all. for
i the idea was used in walking skirts
i last spring. The movement is dis
tinctly Turkish, for the skirt slightly
j balloons out over the knees and hips
i and s;oes snugly in at the ankles and
! waist. This swirl is accomplished by
j cleverly manipulated seams and here
I and there a pleat, but it Is the feelinp
of the American woman at the moment
; that the American dressmaker will not
S accomplish it in a satisfying way.
*.
* v
This idea is based on the fact that
we never got the hobble skirt quite
right in America. Tt may have some
thing to do with our lijrures; we may
be at fault, not the dressmakers, but
the truth is that the Paris people are
past masters at a kind of uncanny ma
nipulation of cloth, and this new skirt
is a good evidence of it.
Its incoming does not mean that those
i broad pleats at the waist have gone out.
| for one still sees all manner of skirts
; arranged in that bias line which brings
tins' drapery to the middle of the waist,
; front or back, and sometimes both. I'n
less the material is excessively soft, it is
not easy to put one of Ooucet's wrinkled
yokes over the upper part of the hips in
order to lio'.d down the tunic.
Tlie pleats stand in the way of this, for
! they are not stitched and they make the
yoke bunglesome.
Many of tlie new skirts have all their
pleating in tlie tunic itself, and many of
the best houses are using two tunics in
stead of one. This does not make the
line of departure from the ligure so ab
rupt. There is a black satin theater
gown with double ruffles, that is an ad
mirable example of what a theater gown
should be. especially for the woman who
does not care to wear a decollete frock
1 every time she desires to see a play at
night. !
*
? * ^
The skirt, which is of the satin, is with
out pleats at the waist line, but full
enough to be caught up in horizontal
pleats between the knees under the lower :
tunic. This drags the gown up in the j
front, breaks the straight-around hem at j
the ankles, which is now considered quite j
old-fashioned, and gives that baggy ef
fect above the feet which is much de
sired.
There are two tunics of black silk net
boldly embroidered in a tlat silver thread
with a design picked out in steel beads.
Kach tunic is edged with a ribbon of
black velvet, and each is thickly pleated
to the narrow satin skirt beneath.
The upper tunic Ib held down by a
black satin yoke, or sash, which is drawn
around the figure to outdne it. edged
with shell beads in front, and tucked un
der at the lower edge in order to follow
the outward movement of the tpnic and
not conttne it too closely.
The bodice is a straight up and down
shirt waist that is semi-fitting, is with
Astaptaftioin ?IF Two=Twails M@sw
MANY OK TIIK BEST HOUSES ARE USING TWO TUNICS INSTEAD OI
ONK. THIS IXJKS NOT MAKE THE L.lNE OF DEPARTURE FROM THI
FIGURE SO ABRUPT. THIS UOWX, OK WHITE TAFFETA. HAS TWO TUNIC*!
OF WHITE CHIFFON. HKL.D OUT W1TPI A SMALT, CORD AT THE BOTTOM
THERE 1*1 A LITTLE METALLIC UVU ON TH SLEEVES AND BODICE
WHICH A*E OF CHIFFON?AND THERE IS A G*DLE OF GREEN VELVET
OUGHT OUT FOE AUTUMN
THK TAILORED SI IIS OF THIS AUTUMN ARE UNUSUALLY ATTRACTIVE. DUVET YN, OF WHICH MANY ARE MADE. IS WARM. AND YEj aOFT.
AND CAN BK EASILY MANIPULATED INTO FOLDS AND DRAPERY. THE COLORS IN IT ARE GOOD, TOO, AND ALTOGETHER IT IS A WISE CHOICE
FOR THE TAIU3RED SUIT.
THE ILLUSTRATION SHOWS TWO SUITS OF THIS MATERIAL. THE ONE ON THE LEFT TS OF DEEP KHAKI COLOR. THERE IS A DIAGONAL
CLOSING IN THE FRONT OF THE COAT, AND THE UNDER ARM SEAMS ARE SLASHED TO THE WAIST. WITH IT IS CARRIED A HUGE. FLAT MUFF
OF BROWN BROCADED VELVET. EDGED WITH BLACK FOX AND EMBROIDERED WITH A STIFF FLORAL DESIGN IN DARK SHADES OF BROWN AND
BLACK. THE SMALL Fl R COLIxAR FITS SNUGLY ABOUT THE THROAT AND FASTENS AT THE BACK UNDER A BROWN RIBBON BOW WITH LONG
ENDS. THK HAT. OF VELVET LIKE THE MUFF, IS TRIMMED WITH BANDS OF FUR AND FLOWERS OF EMBROIDERED VELVET.
THE SUIT ON THE RIGHT IS MADE OF DEEP PURPLE DUVETYN. THE BEAUTY OF THE COLORS IN DIJVETYN IS THAT THEY ARE ALL SMOKY.
A LITTLE FADED. AND THEREFORE BEAUTIFUL. THIS SUIT TS MADE WITH A BAGGY COAT THAT IS BROAD THROUGH THE SHOULDERS, AND
MAKES NO ATTEMPT TO OUTLINE THE FIGURE AT ANY POINT. THE SKIRT, TOO. IS FULL THROUGH THE HIPS, BUT NARROWS INTO A CONVEN
TIONAL FOOT LINE. A COLLAR OF PALE YELLOW DYED FOX IS ATTACHED TO THE COAT. AND WITH IT IS CARRIED A HUGE YELLOW FOX
MUFF. THE HAT, OF BLACK VELVET, SHOWS A NOVEL AND EFFECTIVE BOW.
out a yoke, has elbow sleeves that cling
closely*to the arm and are* finished with
flaring ruffles of black and white tulle.
The way in which the bodice is opened
In front is the exceptional idea; the tulle
collar at the bark and sides is straight
and high, and it, like the rest of the
bodice, is ornamented with the silver
thread and the steel beads and Is un
lined. But this collar does not close in
front by three inches, and is joined with
two crossed bands of black velvet rittton
held by a diamond ornament in the mid
dle.
The side lines of the bodice follow the
lines of the collar and drop from it eo the
waist, leaving an open space of sev
eral inches in front. This space is half
filled in, above the waist, with bias
folds of white net, and the r.ides of the
bodice, from waist to neck, are linished
with two deep ruffles of white and black
tulle that flare' back. There is a folded
belt which is part of the yoke.
It is easy to see -fiow convenient such
a frock is for constant wear. It would
serve for an afternoon tea, a restaurant
dinner and the theater.
The Only point Scored against it is that
it should have a black hat to go with
its high collar, and the American, jvoman
does not care for a hat after -7 o'clock
BELTS and girdles are formed of em
broidered metallic ribbon, green,
gold and blue blending well to
gether.
For evening wear dull gold ribbon cn
circles the head, with upstanding feathers
like the antennae of a butterfly.
Short-waisted bodices of net, with deep
waist bands starting from the waist
line, are new.
Cream and colored flannel eoats, which
are distinguished looking and easily slip
ped on and oft:, are useful for early au
tumn. The sleeves are cut in one with
the rest, and they have a very capelike
appearance.
Black velvet dresses will be much worn
in the evening, and we shall see them
with shoulder bands of roses on one arm
and a wisp of tulle on the other.
Leather culls and collars are sold in
sets ready to wear with any tailormade
gown. They are fastened with gilt orna
ments.
Three-flounced skirts are generally of
the same depth, but vary in fullness, be
ing large round the hips, and small at
the knees.
Applique figures are used on articles of
dress in the form of circles and other
devices in velvet of a contrasting shade
to the ground in mixtures of red and
blue, yellow and green or two shades of
the same color, one very light and the
other very dark.
There is not likely to be an Immediate
return of smooth dress materials, and
woolens with rough surfaces will be much
worn when the cold weather arrives. Sat
in with a woolen b-ck is the exception
because it is a stuff that can* be woru ali
the year round.
Many of the new skirts are Inspired by
Turkish t ousers, and short Turkish jack
ets are worn over them, slashed at the
side, the galloon serving for trimming
having Turkish patterns and designs, the
coloring of red, blue, green and pink be
ing all worked with gold and silver
Many whit-? satin gowns have green sat
in bodices cut Turkish fashion. In many
new skirts the front breadth is cut long
er than the rest and drawn up to the
hips in easy folds.
As a rule evening wraps do not cover
the neck, but have to be supplemented by
boas. collars, etc. Cobweb laces trim
t satin evening wraps and always display
a touch ol black velvet. Many have low
| inedici collars, with fur beneath net as a
' ?>crt of support.
j New waistcoats button on one side or
down the front. They are like sleeveless
jackets, coming down well below the
waist und slashed at the side. Sometimes
the back is pointed.
Hlauk velvet sailor hats with no trim
, ming art! eccentric but fashionable, and
j col od velvet sailor hala will be worn
; by >ouns girls.
There arc wonderful linings in dressy
coats an<l wraps. Those of black avo
lined with an uncommon kind of silk re
sembling vividly painted paper. These
garments art so drawn up at the side
that the linings show, and often the col
larfc are of the same silk, especially when
they terminate In revers. Striking and
distinctive plaids are used for such lin
ings.
Ruches and fichus are worn to a great
extent with both day and evening gowns,
net being the favorite fabric on account
of durability.
Many fancy waistcoats arc made of j
flowered and printed silk bordered with!
frills. Sometimes they are made of bro
caded flowers and profusely trimmed
with buttons.
A BUSY WOMAN'S
SOCIAL DUTIES
ONE busy woman has a unique method
of attending to social duties without
strain upon her time or energy. She
gives a large share of credit to the tele
phone. When the evening paper comes
in she scans the social columns for the
j.ames of friends. If one is mentioned as
just returning from a long trip or a
summer's sojourn, she goes straight to
the phone and gives her a cordial greet
ing. Any event of importance in her
friends* lives means a phone message
j from her. lor she tinds it less formal
j and quicker than writing a note, and
! has the appearance of more sincere in
l terest. She does this early in the even
; ing, when the call is not apt to be an
! interruption, and when people are more
i likely to be at home.
Another pretty practice of this woman
! is to send a Ions-stemmed, beautiful
j flower with her card, instead of making
j a call. people love flowers as much
I as sick people do, and another advan
j tage is that a lady doesn't have to be in
I afternoon dress to rece.ve either the
i te.ephone or the flower greeting. This
same woman remembers her friends' fads
and tastes, and when reading a magazine
or newspaper she reads with half an
eye for them and half for herself, and
sends to a frierfd a magazine or news
paper with an article marked which she
! knows will appeal to her interest. Then
! she does wholesale calling in summer,
j One tr.p serves to see a lot of friends
informally, and she never apologizes for
I nut coming otherwise.
] The telephone, the gift of a flower,
I choice seeds or cuttings, the loan of a
magazine or book the sidewalk call, the
' quick congratulations or words of sym
pathy; all these things help to keep
friends without causing you anxiety,
time or trouble.
Checks and Plaids.
FOR practical wear the coat of a fancy
woolen tailored spit is worn with a
! skirt made of Scotch plaid or broken
checks. Some of these plaids are four
inches square, especially the black mate
rials plaided off. with white. The over
i plaids are from two to three inches square
? and are made of eponge or serge. The
most popular colors are green and blue,
i green and red. green ai^l black and green
i and maroon. * * -
The Savory Bean Pot.
BAKED BEANS are so nutritious that
tliey should more often appear on
the family menu. If they are not
relished, you may be sure that they are
not cooked in the proper style. Too often
they are undercooked. Just try the fol
lowing recipe and you will be convinced:
Take a quart of beans and put them to
soak in a whole dishpanful of water over
night. Next morning put them to cook in
a big kettle of hot water, and when they
are half done pour that water away and
put on rnpre boiling water, with a piece of
sweet pork.
When they are a little more than half
done, they should be put into a big bean
pot with the pork, a big spoonful of made
mustard, one-half teacupful of good mo
lasses, a small chopped onion and the
tailpiece of a salt codfish well scrubbed.
Bake them slowly for five or six hours
and serve with chopped pickles.
*
* *
The typical New England baked beans
are the following; Soak a pint of small
white beans in water over night. In the
morning drain off the water and parboil
th-inj twenty minutes. Strain through a
colander and put them in an earthen bean
pot, with one tablespoon of molasses and
cold water to just cover them. L>ay a half
pound of salt pork on top, put on a cover
and bake. Slash the rind of the pork with
a sharp knife and bury in* the beans with
the rind exposed on top to brown. As the
water boils away, idd a little more. Bake
at least seven hours.
If you li&e pork and beans with tomato
sauce, try this: Soak one full pint of
white beans over night in water enough to
cover well. In the morning put on to boil
In water to cover to the depth or two
inches. Bring to a boil and then place
where they will gently boil until they be
gin to grow soft, which should be ia
about two hours. "When they have reach
ed this stage, take half a pound of break
fast bacon and slice into a bean pot,
which Khould have a capacity of at least
three pints. Season the beajis Willi salt,
pepper, a teaspoonful of Aigar and a
dash of cayenne pepper, salt very "lightly,
for if the pork-is very ' salt the finished
article will be too salt. .Mix with the
beans a pint of canned tomatoc.-, which
have been run through a colander, ana
pour the mixture over the bacon. Cover
the bean pot, and bake three to four
hours in a Slow oven.
Wash clean as many navy beans as de
sired. Start to boiling In cold water, with
salt to taste; boil slowly until tender;
drain off all water. Put one tablespoon
ful of butter in a baking pan, set on stove
and melt. Pour beans in the pan. Put
four tablespoonfuls of catsup and two ta
blespoonfuls of brown sugar; stir until
mixed through the beans thoroughly; lay
a few thin slices of onion over the .beaux;
sprinkle white pepper over thgpi: l*y thin
slices of bacon on top; pour enough boil
?ing water to cover. Set in the oven and
bake slowly Cor one hour.
w
* *
Allow some small red beans to simmer
in a kettle until reduced to the consist
ency of gruel by long, slow cooking. Fry
enough bacon to make two tablespoonfuls
of fat. Pour the cooked beans into the*
fat, and toss the mixture about ufrtU all
1 the fat has been absorbed. Season to
taste, and you will have a dish that will
delight the palate, even if you are not
addicted to the habit of eating beans.
Left-over beans may be utilized in many
different ways and daintily served as fol
lows: ?
Remove the seeds and stems -from six
medium-sized gretri peppers. Take two
large cupfuls of boiled navy beans, one
minped onion, one heaping tablespoonful
of butter. Stir the beans, onion and but
ter together, season, with salt and pep
per, and stult the peppers with the mix
ture. Dot with butter and bake. Serve
on a circle of toasted brown bread.
Prepare some stuffing the same as for
the peppers just described. ? Take six
large, ripe tomatoes, scoop out the eenter
of each, and stuff with the mixture; dot
: with butter and bake.
When mixing croquettes, care should
| be taken, not to" have the mixture too dry
| to be palatable, nor too moist to keep iti
[shape in frying. For bean croquettes
take three parts of soft cold balled beans
to one part of soaked cracker crumbs;
add a little finely minced onion and mix.
i addin'-r one w ell beaten egg. Serve with
tomato sauce. - -
Take one pint, of bpiled navy beans and
press through a colander. Rub two table
i spooriluls o? butter and .two of flour to
gether, add or.e-haif pint of mill: and
stir until, boiling; add to this one-half
pint of bqiled riee, the bean paste, and
one -teaspooniQl, of' salt, and one salt
spoonful of pepper, and mix well. Turn
into a greased'baking dish and bake forty
minutes, or Until brown.
To make bean sandwiches, rub cold
b^ked btans to, a. paste, mix with finely
chopped cucumber 'pickles. ' and add a
few drops of "pepper sauce. Cut Boston
browji breao Into very thin butter
well, and spread with the bean paste
j If yen hare-Home stale huns, cut the
tops off. remove the crumbs, and place
In the o\ fn to toast; then fill with baked
beans and serve.
For Chilly Motorists.
, T
'T'lUvRlS are now spld attractive sweater
and. cap sets for the tiiotorl&i* They
arc made oC silk knitted fabric, in
changeable colors. Gray and rose and
gray and blue are good combinations,
and so are blue and browni
The sweater-is nyt very heavy, and is
not thick or bulky. It tan be worn e\'en
under a rather -tight-fitting suit coat.
"With the sweater is sold an attractive
little cap, gathered into shape abfeve the
ears, and made'with a straight ^band
across the forehead. *????? ? ? ? . \
r
in the evening. Moreover, she doesn t
wear it. and there is always something
a little odd about a high collar and an
uncovered head.
j The tailored suits of this autumn are
unusually attractive. The new fabric
called duvetyn, or peau dc peclie. gives
to the. tlgure a suppleness that many of
the other heavy fabrics deny it. It is
warm and yet soft, and easily can be
manipulated into folds and drapery. The
colors in it are good, for there is some
thins: about the weave that gives out, or
rather takes in. soft smoky tones of r??d,
gray, purple and green that most wom
en-can wear.
In' dark green, dark purple aud deep
tcliaki, one sees the majority of street
suits. ^teujuin uses more marine blue
than any of the other houses, and she
also uses coats of silk matelasse. which
some of the other houses have dropped.
One must say they are a relief?these
brocaded coats?to the" universal black
velvet, which looks as though it might
be overdone in the near future.
Whatever the names of the fabrics
used, however, they are all soft. Pos
sibly they had to be so to combine with
the new methods of dressmaking. One
cannot make Turkish trouser-sklrts out
of stiff material, and satin is too cold to
tempt the American as a winter suit.
Velours dc laine was good to look at,
but it was too heavy to drape, and there
were many women who complained that
it did not wear well.
It.'is too early to say whether or not
duvetyn will merit the same reproach,
but it is the fabric of the day. and Amer
ica probably will be wearing it as stead
ily as Paris when November comes in.
? So far there has been no return to
Jong coats, except the compromise made
by Paqulp between the long godet coat
and the short flaring' one. Young, slim
llgures will wear straight little coats
that have much charm if they are ?ell
made.
They hang loosely from the shoulder*.
ar? rouuded b<lo*v the waist at the back,
and tilt up In front. The}* are fastened
In a straight line to the neck and topj>e?l
off with some kind of high, loose collar
that dors not cling closely to the neck.
The sleeves are long and usually exag
gerated in shape. They are never con
ventional. nor do they start from con
ventional armholes.
It might be said of all the clothes of
the'day that they are comfortable. The>
hang from the .body instead of.conftntn*
it: the shoulders are broad and full; the
sleeves are immense; the waists have no
Idea of restraint, ami the movement of
the skirt at the kne^s is like that of a
pair of zouave trousers. Th* only p?rt
of the whole costume where one may ??>.
pect to tind discomfort Is In the narrow
footline.
? #
But no one finds inconvenience in thta
when it Is properly cut. There is always
a manipulation of drapery or horizontal
pleating' invisible though it may be. that
keeps the hem from catching around the
ankles as the wearer walks, and that
upward tilt in front does a great deal to
facilitate graceful movement.
If you could see all the women danc
iai? tliu.tango<and the Brazilian Iknaxlxe''
with case and freedom In these seem
ingly narrow skirts you would realize
instantly that there must be some trick
cry "about the footline that gives fullness
Another clever idea on the part of the
dressmakers is to turn up the back of
the skirt to form a cuff. It is an Imita
tion of the cuff on men's trousers, and
It is the popular idea over here, because
it keeps the baek of the skirt from catch
ing on the hcc'g.
nsn
AN interesting gift for a child is
one of the little moving picture
toys?not the real, miniature cine
matographs, but the paper imitations.
There is a long strip of cloth to whloji
tiny pictures, with white ligyrcs on
blaqk backgrounds, are fastened by a flap
at the top.
The pictures depict the successive
movements in some simple sort of ac
tivity?clowns playing leap frog,' for
instance, or a dance of some sort. The
strip to which the papers are attached
is fastened to a sort of pulley, w hich is
turfied by means of a tiny crauli...
The pictures follow one another,
when the crank is turned by hand, in
such rapid succession that they give
the impression given by moving pic
tures?that the figures depicted are
really moving. In some of the toy
machines there is a little glass through
which the spectator looks as he cranks
the reel, and this glass magnifies the
pictures.
Others, not so elaborate?and one
sells for 75 cents?have no glass. The
efTect is just as good, but of course
the figures are smaller In the" less ex
pensive sets. v
For four and a half dollars an inter
esting bird cage can be bought. It is
like any other brass-lacquered bird
cage in all respects save one. That is
the seed cup. There is a small inclined
plane outside the cage leading down
tb the level of the bottom of the cage
from the opening of the seed cup. At
the bottom of this little runway is a
small cart, on four wheels, and from it
a cord leads to the top of the incline.
When the bird is hungry he goes to
the opening where the cup ought to
he, gives a tug with his bill to the
string, and pulls up the little cart,
which he flnds full of seed. Almost
any bird can be trained to work this
little apparatus. ,
For 65 cents a convenient soap dish
can . be bQUght for the kitchen sink.':
It consists of a while enameled metal
soap tl.ish attached to a alab of wiiit?
enameled metal painted 'with a li.t n
Dutch scene In delft. hlu?\
At the top of the slr.b Is a smrtl It-as ?
hook and to this hangs, by a l<ri-*? ??.
a small flesh brush. Such a so:o C ah.
with brush always in place, would prove
a saving of both time and steps.
A dollar and ninety-five cenLs i* tne
price of some wide velvet l>elts, with vel
vet-covered buckles and linings of silk.
They are made in all the fashionable
colors. Including tan, brown, blue of
several shades, rose, biscuit and taup*.
The belts are made in large sizes, so
that they can be worn below the nor
mal waist line If desired. They are
four or Ave inches wide.
? One of the shops shows an Interest
ing collection of coat and hat brushes.
There are two brushes with whit*
enameled backs which hang by brass
rings to two brass pegs fastened in a
small white enameled board. Tht
board, in turn, is fitted with rings by
wliich it can be hung to the wall ?r
door of a coat closet.
Another sort of board, of oak, has a
small mirror?about eight by ten inches
?in a three-inch frame. On each side
of the mirror hang* a clothes brush,
one soft for hats and velvet and one
harsh for heavier materials. Still
another brush holder is made with a
mirror, two brushes and below th*
Vnirror a small thermometer and ba
rometer combined.
One could brush both the coat and
the hat, see that the hat and stray locks
were in place, and consult, the barome
ter and thermometer for Information
concerning the advisability of carrying
umbrellas and thick wraps In a mln
jute with the help of this convenient
combination of necessities.
Dry Cleaning Embroidery.
TO clean white embroidery without
washing, sprinkle It thickly with
powdered chalk and roll up for a few
days. The chalk may easily be shaken
out. and the embroidery will be clean and
will not have lost its new appearance.
Gowns Wiftk Twill? TmeIc,
DRECOLL, IN THIS GOWN. HAS EVOLVED A TUNIC PLEASING TO THE
AMERICAN WOMAN WHO DUES .NOT UKK THE DECIDED SPRING AT
THE WAIST LINE THE GOWN IS MAl>i: OK BLUE CHARMEL'SE. AND THE
TCJNIC AND SLEEVES ARE FORMED OF RUFFLED WHITE TULLE. THE
RIG BUTTERFLY -AT, THE BELT IS- M ADE OF WHITE LACE AND SILVER
15MBR01"DE?Y. SPANGLED WWrvn v T<Vn;S.