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? MINARET TUNIC PROMISES TO BE IMPROVED FOR AMERICANS BY ELIMINATING THE WHALEBONE
ill > . ? " I ;?! ? "i ir-|v>;n! r1. '- of I h>- s';,ir. I'AItlS. October 11. till3. Tlll.lti: is no doubt about/tiie suc eess of the minaret tunic. It is ti? stay, ;it least for .six mouthy. Whether it remains loiter;- than that i.s a con unci rum that ^ou'd have to be answered by. a I'llphie oiacle. Several new things have been learned about it since it began its meteoric career in July. These are tor its betterment. The Americans l ope that the first step forward in improvement is to lake the whalebone out of the hem. Few women fancy themselves going around the streets or the drawing rooms with a min iature hoop bouncing up and down around their knees. The very thought of getting ii|to a street car with one or try ing to place one's self comfortably in a theater seat on a crowded night fright ens one. It suggests untold discomfort and mor tification. One woman in a ballet tunic in a street car would be bad enough, but imagine a dozen: However, the whalebone in the tunic ?was a fanciful interpretation after all. It was copied direct trom the play called "The Minaret'" and was gi\en to women as a toy with which they eould play, Kven l?oucet has this wired tunic in its eccentric form, hut the coloring of his ii is so entrancing that there is no <loubt many American women will adopt it, minus tiic whalebone. T *?* The narrow skirt of this evening frock is of gold brocade, slightly slashed at the left side in order to give the wearer a ehanei to use her ankles. The tra'n is a pointed selvedge of the material, for many of the new evening gowns use only wic width of the material on the bias at the f outline, and then grow exceedingly full as they gel to the knees. Above this skirt i* a ballet tunic of smoky yellow ehitfon. which has a deep Irmgc of deep blue ostrich feathers. T|,e blouse i.s a loose shirt waist of the ye.low ehiffon with a broad yoke across the back, to which the lower part of the bodice is gathered and which forms the straight sleeves that fall almost to the ell>ow. The neck is cut in a deep, loose V that stands away from tiie figure, is also vhaleboned and edged with a stand ing ruche of the blue ostrich feathers. Of course the American woman will de sire the whalebone taken out of the tu nic at once, and while L>ou.-et is willing to do this, he knows that it will spoil the entire effect of the gown if the ehiffon is allowed to fall limpl> o;i the brocaded skirt: so a compromise may be made with the use of a thick cord. * * Doucet has done some very artistic things, by the way, with this new sil houette that women have introduced by means of the tunic. He gives a very oriental touch to it. and, incidentally, makes it more oriental by using a draped yoke of satin over that part of the tunic which otherwise would spring out from the waist if it were not held down. It is this tlare at the waist to which j the majority of American women object, j They do not mind what dimensions are; given to them just be.ow the hips, but it> hist on having gowns lit closely at and , below the waist. This desire is catered to in the soft, broad belts that aie used at the back of loose coats, and are pulled down over the hips in' loose bo<Jfrces: and this idea of Doucet's to flatten the first six inches of the tunic by a well manipulated yoke that looks like a sash, is probably* the best of the new methods of dealing with the accepted silhouette. fhere was danger that this new fold ed yoke might be too close a copy of the oriental sash that pervaded Ameri ca last year, and which became an eyesore to many. Hut. so far, this yoke as I?oucet uses it is satisfactory. It has no ends or loops or bows, it is made of satin, is slightly folded around the figure for a depth of six <>r eight inches. and is out away in front and usually edged with a band of eolorcd crystals if the gown is the kind that can stand this ornamenta tion. ?> i- ?> When tlie dressmakers began using tlie lluring tunic they continued to drape the skirt up in the front and I back, as they had been doing all sum mer. They merely mounted the tunic on top of this. Tiut after a wee!: or two of experimenting they decided to omit this particular movement of dra pery because it was likely to create awkwardness at the front of the waist line, and there is quite enough awk wardness there to answer for as it is. Tt was easy for a French woman, or | man. to evolve a skirt which had all the appearance of drapery without any visible means of obtaining it. but it is not easy for the American either to make it or describe it. Even with a | pattern in one's hand, it may not be ' a simple matter for a skilled American i skirt fitter to accomplish that freedom i of movement, combined with narrow - j ness of line, which the new French i skirt has. i It is not strictly new. after all. for i the idea was used in walking skirts i last spring. The movement is dis tinctly Turkish, for the skirt slightly j balloons out over the knees and hips i and s;oes snugly in at the ankles and ! waist. This swirl is accomplished by j cleverly manipulated seams and here I and there a pleat, but it Is the feelinp of the American woman at the moment ; that the American dressmaker will not S accomplish it in a satisfying way. *. * v This idea is based on the fact that we never got the hobble skirt quite right in America. Tt may have some thing to do with our lijrures; we may be at fault, not the dressmakers, but the truth is that the Paris people are past masters at a kind of uncanny ma nipulation of cloth, and this new skirt is a good evidence of it. Its incoming does not mean that those i broad pleats at the waist have gone out. | for one still sees all manner of skirts ; arranged in that bias line which brings tins' drapery to the middle of the waist, ; front or back, and sometimes both. I'n less the material is excessively soft, it is not easy to put one of Ooucet's wrinkled yokes over the upper part of the hips in order to lio'.d down the tunic. Tlie pleats stand in the way of this, for ! they are not stitched and they make the yoke bunglesome. Many of tlie new skirts have all their pleating in tlie tunic itself, and many of the best houses are using two tunics in stead of one. This does not make the line of departure from the ligure so ab rupt. There is a black satin theater gown with double ruffles, that is an ad mirable example of what a theater gown should be. especially for the woman who does not care to wear a decollete frock 1 every time she desires to see a play at night. ! * ? * ^ The skirt, which is of the satin, is with out pleats at the waist line, but full enough to be caught up in horizontal pleats between the knees under the lower : tunic. This drags the gown up in the j front, breaks the straight-around hem at j the ankles, which is now considered quite j old-fashioned, and gives that baggy ef fect above the feet which is much de sired. There are two tunics of black silk net boldly embroidered in a tlat silver thread with a design picked out in steel beads. Kach tunic is edged with a ribbon of black velvet, and each is thickly pleated to the narrow satin skirt beneath. The upper tunic Ib held down by a black satin yoke, or sash, which is drawn around the figure to outdne it. edged with shell beads in front, and tucked un der at the lower edge in order to follow the outward movement of the tpnic and not conttne it too closely. The bodice is a straight up and down shirt waist that is semi-fitting, is with Astaptaftioin ?IF Two=Twails M@sw MANY OK TIIK BEST HOUSES ARE USING TWO TUNICS INSTEAD OI ONK. THIS IXJKS NOT MAKE THE L.lNE OF DEPARTURE FROM THI FIGURE SO ABRUPT. THIS UOWX, OK WHITE TAFFETA. HAS TWO TUNIC*! OF WHITE CHIFFON. HKL.D OUT W1TPI A SMALT, CORD AT THE BOTTOM THERE 1*1 A LITTLE METALLIC UVU ON TH SLEEVES AND BODICE WHICH A*E OF CHIFFON?AND THERE IS A G*DLE OF GREEN VELVET OUGHT OUT FOE AUTUMN THK TAILORED SI IIS OF THIS AUTUMN ARE UNUSUALLY ATTRACTIVE. DUVET YN, OF WHICH MANY ARE MADE. IS WARM. AND YEj aOFT. AND CAN BK EASILY MANIPULATED INTO FOLDS AND DRAPERY. THE COLORS IN IT ARE GOOD, TOO, AND ALTOGETHER IT IS A WISE CHOICE FOR THE TAIU3RED SUIT. THE ILLUSTRATION SHOWS TWO SUITS OF THIS MATERIAL. THE ONE ON THE LEFT TS OF DEEP KHAKI COLOR. THERE IS A DIAGONAL CLOSING IN THE FRONT OF THE COAT, AND THE UNDER ARM SEAMS ARE SLASHED TO THE WAIST. WITH IT IS CARRIED A HUGE. FLAT MUFF OF BROWN BROCADED VELVET. EDGED WITH BLACK FOX AND EMBROIDERED WITH A STIFF FLORAL DESIGN IN DARK SHADES OF BROWN AND BLACK. THE SMALL Fl R COLIxAR FITS SNUGLY ABOUT THE THROAT AND FASTENS AT THE BACK UNDER A BROWN RIBBON BOW WITH LONG ENDS. THK HAT. OF VELVET LIKE THE MUFF, IS TRIMMED WITH BANDS OF FUR AND FLOWERS OF EMBROIDERED VELVET. THE SUIT ON THE RIGHT IS MADE OF DEEP PURPLE DUVETYN. THE BEAUTY OF THE COLORS IN DIJVETYN IS THAT THEY ARE ALL SMOKY. A LITTLE FADED. AND THEREFORE BEAUTIFUL. THIS SUIT TS MADE WITH A BAGGY COAT THAT IS BROAD THROUGH THE SHOULDERS, AND MAKES NO ATTEMPT TO OUTLINE THE FIGURE AT ANY POINT. THE SKIRT, TOO. IS FULL THROUGH THE HIPS, BUT NARROWS INTO A CONVEN TIONAL FOOT LINE. A COLLAR OF PALE YELLOW DYED FOX IS ATTACHED TO THE COAT. AND WITH IT IS CARRIED A HUGE YELLOW FOX MUFF. THE HAT, OF BLACK VELVET, SHOWS A NOVEL AND EFFECTIVE BOW. out a yoke, has elbow sleeves that cling closely*to the arm and are* finished with flaring ruffles of black and white tulle. The way in which the bodice is opened In front is the exceptional idea; the tulle collar at the bark and sides is straight and high, and it, like the rest of the bodice, is ornamented with the silver thread and the steel beads and Is un lined. But this collar does not close in front by three inches, and is joined with two crossed bands of black velvet rittton held by a diamond ornament in the mid dle. The side lines of the bodice follow the lines of the collar and drop from it eo the waist, leaving an open space of sev eral inches in front. This space is half filled in, above the waist, with bias folds of white net, and the r.ides of the bodice, from waist to neck, are linished with two deep ruffles of white and black tulle that flare' back. There is a folded belt which is part of the yoke. It is easy to see -fiow convenient such a frock is for constant wear. It would serve for an afternoon tea, a restaurant dinner and the theater. The Only point Scored against it is that it should have a black hat to go with its high collar, and the American, jvoman does not care for a hat after -7 o'clock BELTS and girdles are formed of em broidered metallic ribbon, green, gold and blue blending well to gether. For evening wear dull gold ribbon cn circles the head, with upstanding feathers like the antennae of a butterfly. Short-waisted bodices of net, with deep waist bands starting from the waist line, are new. Cream and colored flannel eoats, which are distinguished looking and easily slip ped on and oft:, are useful for early au tumn. The sleeves are cut in one with the rest, and they have a very capelike appearance. Black velvet dresses will be much worn in the evening, and we shall see them with shoulder bands of roses on one arm and a wisp of tulle on the other. Leather culls and collars are sold in sets ready to wear with any tailormade gown. They are fastened with gilt orna ments. Three-flounced skirts are generally of the same depth, but vary in fullness, be ing large round the hips, and small at the knees. Applique figures are used on articles of dress in the form of circles and other devices in velvet of a contrasting shade to the ground in mixtures of red and blue, yellow and green or two shades of the same color, one very light and the other very dark. There is not likely to be an Immediate return of smooth dress materials, and woolens with rough surfaces will be much worn when the cold weather arrives. Sat in with a woolen b-ck is the exception because it is a stuff that can* be woru ali the year round. Many of the new skirts are Inspired by Turkish t ousers, and short Turkish jack ets are worn over them, slashed at the side, the galloon serving for trimming having Turkish patterns and designs, the coloring of red, blue, green and pink be ing all worked with gold and silver Many whit-? satin gowns have green sat in bodices cut Turkish fashion. In many new skirts the front breadth is cut long er than the rest and drawn up to the hips in easy folds. As a rule evening wraps do not cover the neck, but have to be supplemented by boas. collars, etc. Cobweb laces trim t satin evening wraps and always display a touch ol black velvet. Many have low | inedici collars, with fur beneath net as a ' ?>crt of support. j New waistcoats button on one side or down the front. They are like sleeveless jackets, coming down well below the waist und slashed at the side. Sometimes the back is pointed. Hlauk velvet sailor hats with no trim , ming art! eccentric but fashionable, and j col od velvet sailor hala will be worn ; by >ouns girls. There arc wonderful linings in dressy coats an<l wraps. Those of black avo lined with an uncommon kind of silk re sembling vividly painted paper. These garments art so drawn up at the side that the linings show, and often the col larfc are of the same silk, especially when they terminate In revers. Striking and distinctive plaids are used for such lin ings. Ruches and fichus are worn to a great extent with both day and evening gowns, net being the favorite fabric on account of durability. Many fancy waistcoats arc made of j flowered and printed silk bordered with! frills. Sometimes they are made of bro caded flowers and profusely trimmed with buttons. A BUSY WOMAN'S SOCIAL DUTIES ONE busy woman has a unique method of attending to social duties without strain upon her time or energy. She gives a large share of credit to the tele phone. When the evening paper comes in she scans the social columns for the j.ames of friends. If one is mentioned as just returning from a long trip or a summer's sojourn, she goes straight to the phone and gives her a cordial greet ing. Any event of importance in her friends* lives means a phone message j from her. lor she tinds it less formal j and quicker than writing a note, and ! has the appearance of more sincere in l terest. She does this early in the even ; ing, when the call is not apt to be an ! interruption, and when people are more i likely to be at home. Another pretty practice of this woman ! is to send a Ions-stemmed, beautiful j flower with her card, instead of making j a call. people love flowers as much I as sick people do, and another advan j tage is that a lady doesn't have to be in I afternoon dress to rece.ve either the i te.ephone or the flower greeting. This same woman remembers her friends' fads and tastes, and when reading a magazine or newspaper she reads with half an eye for them and half for herself, and sends to a frierfd a magazine or news paper with an article marked which she ! knows will appeal to her interest. Then ! she does wholesale calling in summer, j One tr.p serves to see a lot of friends informally, and she never apologizes for I nut coming otherwise. ] The telephone, the gift of a flower, I choice seeds or cuttings, the loan of a magazine or book the sidewalk call, the ' quick congratulations or words of sym pathy; all these things help to keep friends without causing you anxiety, time or trouble. Checks and Plaids. FOR practical wear the coat of a fancy woolen tailored spit is worn with a ! skirt made of Scotch plaid or broken checks. Some of these plaids are four inches square, especially the black mate rials plaided off. with white. The over i plaids are from two to three inches square ? and are made of eponge or serge. The most popular colors are green and blue, i green and red. green ai^l black and green i and maroon. * * - The Savory Bean Pot. BAKED BEANS are so nutritious that tliey should more often appear on the family menu. If they are not relished, you may be sure that they are not cooked in the proper style. Too often they are undercooked. Just try the fol lowing recipe and you will be convinced: Take a quart of beans and put them to soak in a whole dishpanful of water over night. Next morning put them to cook in a big kettle of hot water, and when they are half done pour that water away and put on rnpre boiling water, with a piece of sweet pork. When they are a little more than half done, they should be put into a big bean pot with the pork, a big spoonful of made mustard, one-half teacupful of good mo lasses, a small chopped onion and the tailpiece of a salt codfish well scrubbed. Bake them slowly for five or six hours and serve with chopped pickles. * * * The typical New England baked beans are the following; Soak a pint of small white beans in water over night. In the morning drain off the water and parboil th-inj twenty minutes. Strain through a colander and put them in an earthen bean pot, with one tablespoon of molasses and cold water to just cover them. L>ay a half pound of salt pork on top, put on a cover and bake. Slash the rind of the pork with a sharp knife and bury in* the beans with the rind exposed on top to brown. As the water boils away, idd a little more. Bake at least seven hours. If you li&e pork and beans with tomato sauce, try this: Soak one full pint of white beans over night in water enough to cover well. In the morning put on to boil In water to cover to the depth or two inches. Bring to a boil and then place where they will gently boil until they be gin to grow soft, which should be ia about two hours. "When they have reach ed this stage, take half a pound of break fast bacon and slice into a bean pot, which Khould have a capacity of at least three pints. Season the beajis Willi salt, pepper, a teaspoonful of Aigar and a dash of cayenne pepper, salt very "lightly, for if the pork-is very ' salt the finished article will be too salt. .Mix with the beans a pint of canned tomatoc.-, which have been run through a colander, ana pour the mixture over the bacon. Cover the bean pot, and bake three to four hours in a Slow oven. Wash clean as many navy beans as de sired. Start to boiling In cold water, with salt to taste; boil slowly until tender; drain off all water. Put one tablespoon ful of butter in a baking pan, set on stove and melt. Pour beans in the pan. Put four tablespoonfuls of catsup and two ta blespoonfuls of brown sugar; stir until mixed through the beans thoroughly; lay a few thin slices of onion over the .beaux; sprinkle white pepper over thgpi: l*y thin slices of bacon on top; pour enough boil ?ing water to cover. Set in the oven and bake slowly Cor one hour. w * * Allow some small red beans to simmer in a kettle until reduced to the consist ency of gruel by long, slow cooking. Fry enough bacon to make two tablespoonfuls of fat. Pour the cooked beans into the* fat, and toss the mixture about ufrtU all 1 the fat has been absorbed. Season to taste, and you will have a dish that will delight the palate, even if you are not addicted to the habit of eating beans. Left-over beans may be utilized in many different ways and daintily served as fol lows: ? Remove the seeds and stems -from six medium-sized gretri peppers. Take two large cupfuls of boiled navy beans, one minped onion, one heaping tablespoonful of butter. Stir the beans, onion and but ter together, season, with salt and pep per, and stult the peppers with the mix ture. Dot with butter and bake. Serve on a circle of toasted brown bread. Prepare some stuffing the same as for the peppers just described. ? Take six large, ripe tomatoes, scoop out the eenter of each, and stuff with the mixture; dot : with butter and bake. When mixing croquettes, care should | be taken, not to" have the mixture too dry | to be palatable, nor too moist to keep iti [shape in frying. For bean croquettes take three parts of soft cold balled beans to one part of soaked cracker crumbs; add a little finely minced onion and mix. i addin'-r one w ell beaten egg. Serve with tomato sauce. - - Take one pint, of bpiled navy beans and press through a colander. Rub two table i spooriluls o? butter and .two of flour to gether, add or.e-haif pint of mill: and stir until, boiling; add to this one-half pint of bqiled riee, the bean paste, and one -teaspooniQl, of' salt, and one salt spoonful of pepper, and mix well. Turn into a greased'baking dish and bake forty minutes, or Until brown. To make bean sandwiches, rub cold b^ked btans to, a. paste, mix with finely chopped cucumber 'pickles. ' and add a few drops of "pepper sauce. Cut Boston browji breao Into very thin butter well, and spread with the bean paste j If yen hare-Home stale huns, cut the tops off. remove the crumbs, and place In the o\ fn to toast; then fill with baked beans and serve. For Chilly Motorists. , T 'T'lUvRlS are now spld attractive sweater and. cap sets for the tiiotorl&i* They arc made oC silk knitted fabric, in changeable colors. Gray and rose and gray and blue are good combinations, and so are blue and browni The sweater-is nyt very heavy, and is not thick or bulky. It tan be worn e\'en under a rather -tight-fitting suit coat. "With the sweater is sold an attractive little cap, gathered into shape abfeve the ears, and made'with a straight ^band across the forehead. *????? ? ? ? . \ r in the evening. Moreover, she doesn t wear it. and there is always something a little odd about a high collar and an uncovered head. j The tailored suits of this autumn are unusually attractive. The new fabric called duvetyn, or peau dc peclie. gives to the. tlgure a suppleness that many of the other heavy fabrics deny it. It is warm and yet soft, and easily can be manipulated into folds and drapery. The colors in it are good, for there is some thins: about the weave that gives out, or rather takes in. soft smoky tones of r??d, gray, purple and green that most wom en-can wear. In' dark green, dark purple aud deep tcliaki, one sees the majority of street suits. ^teujuin uses more marine blue than any of the other houses, and she also uses coats of silk matelasse. which some of the other houses have dropped. One must say they are a relief?these brocaded coats?to the" universal black velvet, which looks as though it might be overdone in the near future. Whatever the names of the fabrics used, however, they are all soft. Pos sibly they had to be so to combine with the new methods of dressmaking. One cannot make Turkish trouser-sklrts out of stiff material, and satin is too cold to tempt the American as a winter suit. Velours dc laine was good to look at, but it was too heavy to drape, and there were many women who complained that it did not wear well. It.'is too early to say whether or not duvetyn will merit the same reproach, but it is the fabric of the day. and Amer ica probably will be wearing it as stead ily as Paris when November comes in. ? So far there has been no return to Jong coats, except the compromise made by Paqulp between the long godet coat and the short flaring' one. Young, slim llgures will wear straight little coats that have much charm if they are ?ell made. They hang loosely from the shoulder*. ar? rouuded b<lo*v the waist at the back, and tilt up In front. The}* are fastened In a straight line to the neck and topj>e?l off with some kind of high, loose collar that dors not cling closely to the neck. The sleeves are long and usually exag gerated in shape. They are never con ventional. nor do they start from con ventional armholes. It might be said of all the clothes of the'day that they are comfortable. The> hang from the .body instead of.conftntn* it: the shoulders are broad and full; the sleeves are immense; the waists have no Idea of restraint, ami the movement of the skirt at the kne^s is like that of a pair of zouave trousers. Th* only p?rt of the whole costume where one may ??>. pect to tind discomfort Is In the narrow footline. ? # But no one finds inconvenience in thta when it Is properly cut. There is always a manipulation of drapery or horizontal pleating' invisible though it may be. that keeps the hem from catching around the ankles as the wearer walks, and that upward tilt in front does a great deal to facilitate graceful movement. If you could see all the women danc iai? tliu.tango<and the Brazilian Iknaxlxe'' with case and freedom In these seem ingly narrow skirts you would realize instantly that there must be some trick cry "about the footline that gives fullness Another clever idea on the part of the dressmakers is to turn up the back of the skirt to form a cuff. It is an Imita tion of the cuff on men's trousers, and It is the popular idea over here, because it keeps the baek of the skirt from catch ing on the hcc'g. nsn AN interesting gift for a child is one of the little moving picture toys?not the real, miniature cine matographs, but the paper imitations. There is a long strip of cloth to whloji tiny pictures, with white ligyrcs on blaqk backgrounds, are fastened by a flap at the top. The pictures depict the successive movements in some simple sort of ac tivity?clowns playing leap frog,' for instance, or a dance of some sort. The strip to which the papers are attached is fastened to a sort of pulley, w hich is turfied by means of a tiny crauli... The pictures follow one another, when the crank is turned by hand, in such rapid succession that they give the impression given by moving pic tures?that the figures depicted are really moving. In some of the toy machines there is a little glass through which the spectator looks as he cranks the reel, and this glass magnifies the pictures. Others, not so elaborate?and one sells for 75 cents?have no glass. The efTect is just as good, but of course the figures are smaller In the" less ex pensive sets. v For four and a half dollars an inter esting bird cage can be bought. It is like any other brass-lacquered bird cage in all respects save one. That is the seed cup. There is a small inclined plane outside the cage leading down tb the level of the bottom of the cage from the opening of the seed cup. At the bottom of this little runway is a small cart, on four wheels, and from it a cord leads to the top of the incline. When the bird is hungry he goes to the opening where the cup ought to he, gives a tug with his bill to the string, and pulls up the little cart, which he flnds full of seed. Almost any bird can be trained to work this little apparatus. , For 65 cents a convenient soap dish can . be bQUght for the kitchen sink.': It consists of a while enameled metal soap tl.ish attached to a alab of wiiit? enameled metal painted 'with a li.t n Dutch scene In delft. hlu?\ At the top of the slr.b Is a smrtl It-as ? hook and to this hangs, by a l<ri-*? ??. a small flesh brush. Such a so:o C ah. with brush always in place, would prove a saving of both time and steps. A dollar and ninety-five cenLs i* tne price of some wide velvet l>elts, with vel vet-covered buckles and linings of silk. They are made in all the fashionable colors. Including tan, brown, blue of several shades, rose, biscuit and taup*. The belts are made in large sizes, so that they can be worn below the nor mal waist line If desired. They are four or Ave inches wide. ? One of the shops shows an Interest ing collection of coat and hat brushes. There are two brushes with whit* enameled backs which hang by brass rings to two brass pegs fastened in a small white enameled board. Tht board, in turn, is fitted with rings by wliich it can be hung to the wall ?r door of a coat closet. Another sort of board, of oak, has a small mirror?about eight by ten inches ?in a three-inch frame. On each side of the mirror hang* a clothes brush, one soft for hats and velvet and one harsh for heavier materials. Still another brush holder is made with a mirror, two brushes and below th* Vnirror a small thermometer and ba rometer combined. One could brush both the coat and the hat, see that the hat and stray locks were in place, and consult, the barome ter and thermometer for Information concerning the advisability of carrying umbrellas and thick wraps In a mln jute with the help of this convenient combination of necessities. Dry Cleaning Embroidery. TO clean white embroidery without washing, sprinkle It thickly with powdered chalk and roll up for a few days. The chalk may easily be shaken out. and the embroidery will be clean and will not have lost its new appearance. Gowns Wiftk Twill? TmeIc, DRECOLL, IN THIS GOWN. HAS EVOLVED A TUNIC PLEASING TO THE AMERICAN WOMAN WHO DUES .NOT UKK THE DECIDED SPRING AT THE WAIST LINE THE GOWN IS MAl>i: OK BLUE CHARMEL'SE. AND THE TCJNIC AND SLEEVES ARE FORMED OF RUFFLED WHITE TULLE. THE RIG BUTTERFLY -AT, THE BELT IS- M ADE OF WHITE LACE AND SILVER 15MBR01"DE?Y. SPANGLED WWrvn v T<Vn;S.