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Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, April 26, 1914, Image 76

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what weu Dressed Mjten WIiiWear
BY
&
THE BEILLIANT SOCIAL LIFE AND DISPLAY OF FASHIONS AT CANNES, NICE AND MONTE CAIRLO
Special Correspondence of The Star.
PARIS April IK. 1!>H.
BEYOND the merp business of
clothes, the month of April is
rather dismal in Paris for those
who want gayety and new sen
sations. There are few A meri
t-arts in town, the pieces at th" theater
arf> not new nor especially brilliant ami
the streets are not crowded with shop
pers.
She who is here for the opening in
Uar< h ;ind to follow the footsteps of
einthes during the first few weeks after
the formal exhibitions lias her hands
quite f i'l in looking, in analyzing, in
> ??mparinK and in passing judgment on
w hat is offered.
The mere fact that there are ten great
houses In the dressmaking business in
Paris, fully a dozen that rank high and
possibly half a dozen that must he look
ed into is interesting in itself: but when
one adds to these dressmaking houses
the openings of the milliners and the spe
cialty houses in wraps, coiffures, shoes
and novelties, it is easy to see lhat one
has not time to idle.
*
* *
One has a feeling based on experience
that it is wiser to get all the facts con
cerning these openings well placed in the
mind before the modifications begin, and
before there is a rush of social life that
presents the clothes on the woman and
not in the atelier. There is. you know,
a wide gulf fixed between the two.
It is like learning the alphabet well,
and then reading. One likes to see. so
to speak, the letters put- into phrases.
They become more intelligible and more
interesting.
One of the essential things to do be
tween seasons?that is. before the bril
liancy of early May has begun and the
brisk commerce of mid-March i sended?
is to drop down overnight to the Ri
viera. Here at Cannes, at Cap Martin,
at Nice and at Monte Carlo, one comes
face to face with most of the celebrities
on this side of the water. After a week
of it. the sight of a kin?r causes no
thrill, and the fact that a queen is buy
ing a veil in the same shop as you are
leaves you cold.
After two days of it one comes to the
conclusion that here is the real court
of Europe: that nM even th?* prime min
isters are home;to govern their countries.
Bvery day yotr can meet the King of
Sweden corning down the steps of this
favorite hotel, or run across the Queen
of Denmark acting very much like an
ordinary person while she enjoys all the
life offered to her in this heavenly play
ground of Europe.
*
There are so many Russian grand
dukes at one's elbow, figuratively speak
ing. that ohe feels quite familiar at the
end of a week with the royal family that
surrounds the czar. And they are made
tnore familiar by the fact that they are
lunching and dining with Americans one
knows.
One day it will be with Mrs. Craig
Riddle and Mrs. George T_.ee Thompson,
both P:tiladelphians who are passing the
spring at Cannes; another day with some
other- .American at lunch ar Ciro's.
One hopes to meet the ex-Empress of
the French near her lovely home at f*a;>
Martin; one is quite sure that an after
noon with tlte Williamsons of motor-car
fiction fame, in their high-pitched bunga
low on the mountains near Nice, will be
delightful.
Celebrities trot so fast upon one anoth
er's heels?merchant, artist, king awl
prince?that if one were properly thrilled
at the sight of each one the nervous
system would soon give out.
One has an idea that all the bril
liancy of the Riviera centers in Monte
Carlo, which is quite a mistake. The
number of tourists who pass through this
enchanting promontory that juts into the
sea is reckoned in the millions. It is
useless to say that every person of im
portance. and of no importance, goes
through there and always manages to
eat and to play there.
* *
At Nic ? one is in a cosmopolitan town
filled with tourists and presenting with
its brilliant streets and its miles of ho
tels something of the scene of a gigan
tic exposition: this is especially true dur
OKIE TEENO OF SKIKT FASHIONS
the tii.t upward of tub wanking skirt is an established
fashion. IT HAS REASON. FOR IT OBVIATES THE NECESSITY OF A
SLASH TO MAKE WALKING OOMFORTABLLY EASY. IN THE SKETCH
IS A FROCK OF SOFT GREEN TAFFETA WITH SLEEVES OF MOUSSE
UNE DE SOIE. TWO STREAMERS OF RIBBON HANG FROM THE NECK
AND ARE finished WITH PINK ROSES AN ODD GREEN HAT. BANDED
WITH BLACK VEI.VET AND WITH A HUGE BLACK FEATHER AT THE
BACK, IS WORN.
? . ''Jt
, which was sadly
ins carnival we.h; jn(.essant rains,
spoilt this yeai '?> ta ,h(. hr.l
It is at Cannes that ?** * ot eclipse,
liant so< !sl hf'1 * ? orl between
however. tl.? BayetJ m'Rr ,.vorv mile of
Nice and M0nt.^?rl0. for ^ hwlse
it is a pleas.ire ,r>.unu. ?
there is sayctj ami ? ar(, tennis ant
All about the ' Hftt;rnoon dances, j
polo, balls, dinners an l atu-r (q ,
All '.he ?omen of U,.^ ,a?d. |
centered m th.. . I Uv tVu, oniy ad
:,r. i "enchant-d ,icr \ alc motol
jeeti ve to use niohP road, whether |
:n-' down th< down the coas>
von are loit-nns by boat K,vi,,..;
from the. mou..tains to the ?o..
tramping UP ,h <-.,r|o or idling down
links behind Monte < ario ^ w;ltc:
the wnndert -li prop > .infused by the
orrered by natnr.
and by humanitj- elimate and the
Her^. the P>*"- " . that certain
people have 1 ,, r where anv one else
feeling that no mat e ^ ,he rigl.t spot
happens to , no better as
for"making one happy and con
''Probably the r" "patCs?TsVmblage of
brought out th ^ number of laces
fashionable people. The r.un ^
familiar from photcand b;id be
1 that were heretofore 8 , r and the
come a' tual the nash ot ^ feel
splendor of the cosium ha(1 been
nut'on*1 the^oards of life and your task
Sas to assort the pieces.
*
* * .
Monte Carlo is traditional.
The cas.no at Mom e ^ g,ory of
and one expe dressmakers
womanly . beat. > ^ n'0,hinK of a few
art combined. ? y ^ disappoint
^nfisX overwhelming. As almost
^tThlu the rule instead of the ex
oeption. , rn(,ir- rr.s.7 have
In other 'lays- but today it is
been a fascinated by the ex
not. One becomes fasct ^ weariness
change of n;?"e;' ' rakes in gold pieces
of the croupier, who r. aml ttlc
as though they ^n^n gambtrs who lose
coolness of the ?' ()f. money with the
and win grea . j Indian on their
^;ri?,t t?ltcre " ornate or fash
ionable 11'ssi.'.^ cousin even to
The scene is not ? ^ af Deauvllle
what one seesat the ^ Grand l>rU ,n
during the ??-'?
August. ennrtinc Club that one gets
? if the sporting ci (.arlo whlch,
? brmianL'ftiaf:;he casino, makes one
ga?p if one dines, let us
Hotel de Paris ? ' is dropped
to go to i R,! many elevators, led
downward ? nder-round passages,
through so Ml. onward by so
arrested and thet tha( onc is
many ""ifor,mrd?jl\eli And one is.
PrXough?thcse immense ^ rooms, with
their costly ,,rivileged men 1
French taste, glide wgh stakes
rr.'.fc ^well -"on^the tabic
* *
no coat suit? here, no
T ? of rough tweed on .he men.
saccule coats oft S elegance.
All is alipp,ttr?^ of th(. kind that Sind
Here arc jewels o follrl<l at
bad the Sailor ,T,_" hen he brought
tached to the raw mezt ,. nds. Pearls
it up from lh''?nCf>raso^meralds and
like pigeon . in platlnum.
diamonds wondrouMl ' slun? arou?d
ropes of Pcarls thJU ^ ^ (.h|,d wollld
thr n?*?'K xe\erA\ tm ^ ^ corsage
sling PaPer,r^e" ^p^tlv took the. places
ornaments that ? half held up to
^rs-'S ^e8 the jewels that these
women wore. f provincialisni at
One has a frrl'n- )rwCi? worn in the
having boasted ^ thCMJrtrol,?Htan Opera
ii "
SSMJ?? ?-? bau^(hcrp at
^ o'clock the nex . fashionables I
front of ,;,roslnnWcierPHere the nccom-l
Sung matre Vhotel will whlsPc^.n
^ to
k Y?m ahremglad fhat the brimant^"^!
American0 for like her face, hcr|
Plain Linen.
PLAIN" heavy linen makes very at
tract! vf table cloths and napkins.
It is nsod in a resturant where the
furnishings are all interesting, and it is
used by some fastidious housewives. In
the restaurant referred to it is quite
satisfactory, for thr (loth is changed,
naturally, tor every diner. Hut in the or
dinary household it has this one disad
vantage: It does show wrinkles and
spots more quickly Than a heavy figured
damask does. So if" there is not a fresh
cloth for i vcr\ meal, damusk may be a
better choice.
But the linen is beautiful, and in any
househo d it might be used for a spe
cial dinner set. The napkins and table
rloths for every meal?damask?may be
like the ordinary napkin hein, finely don?
by hand, or ?lse they are hemstitched in
an inch-wide hem.
With the coming of warm weather ail
white frocks always assume an import
ance which they lose in the told weather,
jln warm weather nothing ?'l?e can really
equal the all-white frock for day or even
jing wear. Nothing else looks so cool and
j fresh and inviting. The present fad tor
i gay girdles makes the all-white frock
| doubly interesting, for the brightest sort
of gridle does not seem parish when it is
worn with such a frock, and it adds a
dashing note that the white itself lacks.
Colored braid is a popular trimming
in use on many of th^ spring suits.
I usually braid of the color of-the suit is
used, but sometimes braid in dark blue
or black or green is used. Braid sashes
are onc of the notes for the spring. They
are generally formed of two strips of
braid stitched together lengthwise to
form a girdle or sash five or six inches
long. They are made of braid woven in
i various combinations of deep red, dark
j blue and green and black.
j Leather belts are used now and again,
in all seasons, whether they are widely
; used or not. And they are always ef
fective. There is something smart about
them that woven fabrics lack. Probably
with this idea in mind, the Paris dress
makers are using leather trimmings on
many of their new models. Leather waist
coats. leather collars and cuffs, and bands
of leather which are used like braid
or ribbon for trimming, are all shown.
A suede finish is the most popular.
Some of the newest white and tan
doeskin gloves show three rows of black
or dark-brown stitching on the back.
This dark stitching adds a smort feature
to the gloves.
The cape seems to be here to remain
for some time. One of its interesting
! manifestations is as a separate coat with
a skirt to match. In this guise it appears
attached to a waistcoat that buttons
I snugly. Sometimes the cape and vest or
waistcoat are of the same color and ma
terial. and sometimes both colors ?nd
fabric^ contrast.
HATS BIOUGHT OUT BY PARIS MILLINERS
i
BLACK IS THE DOMINATING COLOR IN FRENCH MILLINERY. IN THE UPPER LEFT-HAND CORNER IS A NOVEL
SHAPE IN BLACK STRAW. TRIMMED WITH PINK ROSES AND BLACK VELVET RIBBON. AT THE RIGHT
OF THIS HAT IS A TINY STRAW TOQUE WITH BLACK AIGRETTES AT THE BACK. BELOW THAT IS
AN INTERESTING LITTLE HAT TRIMMED WITH THE NEW STRAW RIBBON. AND IN THE LOWER. LEFT-HAND
CORNER IS ONE OF THE SMART COLORED HATS?A GREEN ONE WITH A YELLOW PLUME.
smart black coat suit with its white one of the best dressed women in Europe
blouse that rolls outside the coat in a who comes from XJanada.
flaring Gladstone collar. Wit?* tier are Again the gay crowd assembles at the
her husband, the count: Capt. William- Cafe do Paris for tea and to watch the
son. who is in everything: there, and aj professional dancing, for your smart
French prince who is often confused by j European does not dance on the same
name with a younger branch of the fam- floor with professionals when they are
ily who is over at Cannes playing ad-J there for the purpose of entertaining,
mirable tennis and keenly watched by J So goes tho life, and gay as it is, it
Ktew T?M<sk(g? Fa?ki?ffii
Has D@?ir@(g{dl for Spriia:
IT is said now in Paris that light shades
are favored for evening wear. Pale
pink, certain shades of corn yellow,
light green and blue are a'l worn. Sky
blue satin, for instance, is used to de
velop a popular model. Another popu
lar model is made of rose charmeuse, for
all rose shades are accepted.
It is a season of artificial (lowers.
They are widely used on hats. The single
large flower or bunch of smaller flowers
at the belt is often seen. Flowers are
garlanded on bodice and skirt. Some
times there is a drooping garland of
flowers just below the drawn-up. bustle
like drapery at the back of the skirt,
and sometimes roses outline the decollete
bodice.
Scalloped edges finish many of the new
est taffeta and serge frocks. Many street
suits show skirts with tunics of taffeta
or gabardine finished in deep, round
scallops bound with inch-wide band.s of
black moire silk or satin. House frocks
of taffeta are made with scalloped tunics.
Sometimes a narrow frill of net is fas-,
tened along the under edge of the seal-;
lops.
The sash can be arranged to tie at al
most any point and still be a fashionable
sash. One new street suit shows a sash
PARASOLS of the coming season are
as fluffy and elaborately trimmed
as are the frocks and suits. It is
a simple matter to embellish a plain
parasol that is faded and slightly worn.
Choose flowered or figured chiffon for a
plain-color silk, and plain-color chiffon
for a flowered or striped silk. Open the
parasol and work from the tip, shirring
the chiffon very tight around it.
Allow very little fullness at the outer
edge, but draw the chiffon tightly to the
edge, and baste in place. Then cut off
the superfluous material and finish the
edge with a strip of chiffon shirred on
two or three thick cords. Plain black
chiffon over a rose-flowered parasoj is
very effective, and a blackvchiffon with a
big gTay dot covering a vivid green para
sol is quite attractive. A remnant of
chiffon sufficient for the purpose may
often be picked up at the bargain counter.
It is often possible to buy very cheaply
parasols with plain white handles of en
ameled wood and covfred with thin, cheap
that comes from the back and ties in a
big, (lopping bow in the middle of the j
front below the knees.
Taffeta continues to be in high demand.
It is. as every one knows by this time,
taffeta of a. soft, supple quality, that
crushes in the hand without wrinkling.
It is widely used in changeable effects.
Blue or violet is almost always one of
the colors used in changeable taffeta.
Blue especially 1s prominent?combined
with white, with black, with red and
with green.
Accordion pleating is enjoying a rather
unexpected favor. A charming blouse
is made with a section extending yoke
wise from the back to4the front of ac
cordion-pleated chiffon. The rest of the
blouse Is made of all-over lace over tulle.
Charjning tunics of the new long sort are
made of accordion-pleated chiffon or net.
One model that has attracted attention
it is a Callot model?shows an accordion
pleated tunic of chiffon embroidered with
big disks about the bottom, four or five
of them of graded sizes in upright rows.
The tunic is cut to match the hem of
the skirt at the back, but in the front it
reaches only to within eight inches of
the hem. Tliere are other frocks with
plain tunics and foundation shirts of ac
cordion-pleated taffeta.
silk. With this for a foundation, a beau
tiful parasol may easily be produced at
home. Ruffles of fine point d'esprit, lace
or net are easily mounted on such a
foundation, or alternate rows of wide
lace with the net may be used.
With the quaint frocks of taffeta are
parasols of the same material trimmed
to match with puffings, narrow side and
box plaitings, ruchings and ruffles. Fin
ishes for ruffles are pinking, small em
broidered scallops and narrow bias bind
ings of taffeta. Cut ruffles once and a
half fully allowing an eighth of an
inch on a scalloped edge if the
ruffles are to be velvet-trimmed. Many
taffeta parasols are embroidered in eye
let-stitch in designs that are more fa
miliar on linens. There are transfer pat
terns designed especially for parasols, be
sides any number of others that 1 the
clever woman can adapt to suit her own
taste.
Besides elaborate parasols of lace, chif
fon and silK. there are linens, cotton
voiles, marquisettes and batistes, vari
ously trimmed with embroidery or ef
fective laces such as Cluny, Irish, ma
crame and imitation Venise, both band
ings and medallions being used. A para
Making aiadl Pamsols
really is quite healthy, for it is always
in the open and the days are filled ^vith
exercise. Possibly the most remarkable
thing. and this is a most un-American
statement, is the absence of drinking*
that one sees here.
Compared with any American play
[ ground, the farts of non-drinking are as
tonishing. Even t lie men and women
sol of white linen is distinctive when
trimmed with insertions of macrame lace
handing, and embroidered in color in
daisy stitch and French knots. There is
.1 transfer pattern for various sized
daisies.
*
* *
Bordered materials and flouncings are
easily made into a parasol. Batistes,
lawns, cotton voiles and marquisettes are
very dainty. ' Chiffons and marquisettes
require a lining of one or two thick
nesses of mousseline de soie or very soft
silk if you wish them to be less trans
parent. It is a good plan to line the very
sheer cotton materials with plain fine
lawn or soft batiste. The border is gen
erally used at the edge, but if deep it
may be reversed, forming the center.
When putting away a delicate parasol,
it should never be tightly closed. I-eave
it part way open, stuff the rib pockets
lightly with crumpled tissue paper, sus
pending the parasol then in a capacious
bag .of glazed cambric. Care In this mat
ter will be amply repaid.
Dressy Hair Ornaments.
0DD shapes and brilliant colors in long
scarfs of gold or silver tissue are
wound once or twice around the head and
caught in the most becoming way with
beads, rhinestones, pearls, etc., and are
worn low to the top of the forehead
with hair below. Cap-shaped bands are
of pearls, rhinestones or imitation
aigrettes in front. Gold and silver cords
are the simplest of bandeaux.
Velvet bandeaux are overlaid with a
tiny band of rhinestones or iridescent jet.
Bandeaux are also formed of spangles.
A platinum band in three rows, set with
jet and rhinestones, has a fluffy group
of white feathers on the left. A band
of jet sequins, closely overlapped, is
clasped on the left with an outspread
jet butterfly of wire covered with
spangles, with three white feathers
above. A close turban cap of net, em
broidered in Chinese design and worn
pulled down, shows only a fringe of hair.
Pink satin apple blossoms form a bunch
on the left of the coiffure below soft
feathers of the same pink hue.
To Renew Jet Trimmings.
WHEN jet trimmings grow dusty or
yellow and you And it impossible
to clean them brush them free from dust,
drop them into black dye and dry the
pieces. This process not only freshens
the thread, but It brightens the jet.
There is a tendency to drape the
basques of coats in such a way that they
may droop behind and be caught up into
a bow over the bust, leaving the waist
coat in full view.
t
who are supposed to lead the gayest
lives content themselves with a non-al
coholic aperatif. and possibly a glass of
wine at dinner. The constant procession
of highballs and cocktails which goes on
at American resorts is unknown.
* *
An American who took in the Riviera
in every phase, and applied to it the
analytical mind of woman, said it was
all black: a color was conspicuous. When
she was told that the Riviera was the
garden spot of color in t he world, she
answered, contemptuously; I mean
clothes, not scenery."
Possibly she was right in her state
ment. The quantity of black clothes
worn was amazing. Springtime?and
black. Purple mountains, azure seas,
scarlet flowers, green foliage?and black
robed women. And they looked quite
smart and picturesque, these silhouetted
shadow pictures thrown against a multi
colored screen.
Taffeta, printed crepe, watered silk,
tulle, jet. net. gauze and gabardine;
these fabrics marched in a procession.
The masters of dress had shaped the
materials and the artistic milliners had
formed the hats, and each woman pre
sented in whole and in detail a picture
worth studying.
The turbans of colored flowers which
have always been a feature of millinery
on the Cote d'Azur were conspicuous by
their absence. One saw them in the mil
liners' windows, but not on the women's
heads. Here and there an individualist
would wear an 1870 bonnet of violets,
but one could sweepinglv saw that all
the hats were black.
*
* *
It is difficult to explain why so many
black costumes did not weary the eye
and surfeit the mind. They did not.
Possibly it was because the gowns were
made in such a vast variety of ways and
represented such a unique assortment of
tastes that one was never tired of ana
lyzing them.
There would always be a new touch;
here a sleeve, there a ruffle, again a
pocket or perhaps a cuff, and always a
collar to attract the attention and stir
up the imitative faculties.
A uniform fashion was in the tilt up
ward of the walking skirt. More t ,? ? n
one designer claims credit for its origi: .
but all the dressmakers are now <<>:.
niving at its popularity.
Premet and Oallot probably be^ra:: t.
with the b?ne^t of the doubt coin;; in
Callot. Is it a prettv fas:.ion" \\ i' it
last? The first answer is no. T{., .s. . s
is yes.
Tn its exaggerated form it ma\ riot ? -
main until summer, hut there is a good
reason back of it? existence and for ik
popularity. In walking and dancing th.
hem of the skirt is free .if the 'co.v. .? <1
no woman need be told the conveni- r- -
of this.
The slash at the back of the ?ki: *
not attractive, and in a :argr measure *
has been abandoned It Is no Ion- :
needed. It was only placed there r?> l
freedom to the ankles, ami this is s -
plied by the upward tilt in tii i ... ,<
width.
As for the length of the skitts
were as short in the morning ?
bodices were low in the evening s
of the gowns worn in the afternoon
looked for all the world as though ti? ?
women in them had "hitched" them
all around the hips and pinned the-ti
there. The hem reached to the shoe t?-: >
and the fullness at ti e ton was bun<-; ? d
into Irregular puffs. It lakes little im
agination to see the effect.
When Roman striping was us-'-i on
street costumes the dullest colors w er?*
used. The garish stripes were con?
to collars and cuffs. The long an; ?n
tunic was made of gabardine or tatTc;;?.
especially the latter, in dull blue, yelh.w
and brown striping, over an underskirt
a deepest blue or black.
*
* *
Tn the evening a great deal of white 9
was worn, but brilliant white, which was
touched off with a huge colored rose at
the waist, or was covered with gelatin
sequins, or printed with Watteau tie
signs. Flame pink was a favorite din- r
gown, and it was usually in taffeta. < r
one of those soft silks that have taken
this name.
Among the lingerie gow ns were mat >
of lace, not the patterns we know, b t
new ones that have character. Rem- ru
ber this when you are choosing w
summer frocks.
EVERYTHING that is charming has
been said about Dolly Madison.
She was beautiful.
She dressed well.
She dressed inexpensively.
She was an ideal wife.
She was democratic.
She was gracious.
She was a perfect hostess.
She was beloved by the poor and re
spected by the rich.
And?
She was one daughter-in-law in a thou
sand.
After Madisort's term in the presiden
tial chair was over he and his wife re
tired to Montpelier. his old and charming
home, and there lived with them his
mother, old Mrs. Madison.
From all accounts she was a charm
ing woman. But she was a woman of
independent ideas. She did not like mod
ern ideas.
So she lived in a w ing of the big house
in the fashion which had prevailed when
she was young. There was a garden of
her own attached to her part of the
house. This wing was hung ja'ith heavy
drapery and furnished with mahogany?
which at that time was not in style.
In the other end of the house lived her
sen and daughter-in-law. Their house
was furnished with French furniture.
with light silk hanging?, with l?n?
French windows that opened to the
ground. And in that end of the house
lived a very modern woman?for Doliy
Madison was a very modern woman.
But in spite of their different tempera
ments and different surroundings ;h?se
two women?Dolly Madison and her
mother-in-law?got on together very well.
It was considered a great treat by the
Madisons' guests to be allowed to g??
through the door that separated .he -?st
from the present and call upon the r id. r
Mrs. Madison in her part of the house.
And Dolly Madison paid her mother-in
law every courtesy, every attention, that a
a daughter-in-law could show. ?
Mrs. Madison appreciated this. For
years she was feeble in body, though
strong in mind. She passed her days on a
sofa, reading and knitting in turns.
"My eyes," she once said to a caller,
"thanks be to God, have not failed me
yet and I read the most part of the da>.
but in other respects I am feeble and
helpless and owe everything to her"?she
pointed to Dolly Madison. "She is my
mother now and -tenderly cares for all ?
my wants."
Dolly Madison's day?a hundred years
ago?was a day when rouge at id palm
and powder were as rampant as they ;*re
today. And it is admitted that Dolly
Madison rouged. But perhaps that may
be forgiven her. since she was that para
doxical thing, a perfect daughter-in-law.
A LESSON IN MILLINERY
HE shape of a hat must always be
chosen with regard to the out
lines of face and head, and also
the form of garment intended to be
worn with it. A hat that will look well
and suit the wearer when dressed in a
tailor suit or coat will lose its smart
appearance if worn with a frilled gown.
The reason is that the harmony of pro
portions has not been kept. The next
thing to do is to master the principles
of color, to blend shades and tones per
fectly.
The tools necessary to the home mil
liner are scissors that are not too long,
with one blade quite pointed and sharp,
straw hat needles of various sizes, wire
nippers for bending and cutting wire,
and a tape measure with the eighths dis
tinctly marked upon it.
When making a straw hat over a shape
the straight edge of the straw should
be wired in a length, the first row pinned i
to the shape at its edge, and the sue-1
ceeding rows pinned to the preceding
one until the brim is covered. This is
then carefully removed and sewn firmly,
the outer edge wired, and refitted to the
shape in order that any errors in form
may be remedied.
The crown should be begun at its base,
which is the headline, the first row pin
ned to shape, the second to the first,
and so on until the center of the top
is reached, when the end Is twisted into
the 'crown.
To make a ribbon bow, commence with
an end rather than with a loop. Take
the ribbon in hand, and having decided
upon the length for the first end, pleat j
the ribbon at that point in two or three j
even pleats, according to width. Have i
ready a piece of fine, strong mounting i
wire and placing the end of it within j
one of the pleats, bind it very tightly
round them. Next gauge the length re- |
quired for the first loop, pleat the ribbon j
again evenly at that point, and allowing
the loop to stand in the opposite di
rection to the end, bring the pleated
portion back to the center, and bind it
tightly in with the mounting wire.
Repeat this until the bow is completed,
finishing with an end which should run
in the opposite direction to the first one.
As each loop is fastened, put the forefin
ger inside and lightly pull it to make it
firm. Over the center of the bow, where
all the loops meet, a small 'piece of rib
bon must be stitched. When making a
bow of soft ribbon, the upstanding loops
of which must be stiffened, a fine wir# the
color of the material must be used.
This should be fastened at the edge of
the ribbon by turning the selvage over
the wire and neatly hemming down with
fine sewing silk the color of the ribbon,
or by lightly securing the wire up the
center of the ribbon by tying at the top
and once each side of the loops. A rib
bon rosette or pompon is made entirely
of loops, no ends being used at all. These
are made of uniform size and so managed
that not only do they start and finish in
*
* *
* *
one spot, but each must gradually till up
the space around it. until one by *?ne
they close in and form a round clump.
Good wiring is necessary in tare bow
making. When wiring la?*e insertion with
a straight edge, the wire must be s?-wn
on half an inch from the edg?* with a
buttonhole stitch. When scalloped or
having a pointed edge, the wire is s.-wn
below the scallop at the straight line. I
a scallop or point be very deep, and the
lace very soft, it may be found neressary
to wire around the scallop with a Mill
finer wire. When the insertion is ni??re
than three or four inches wide, a th d
wire is often sewn along the center.
Flowers for Breakfast.
*T*HE early riser might adopt the plan
* of Maria Edgeworth, now that *i;e
time for blossoms is at band.
It Is said that the famous story wnt'-r
used always to get up betimes, even n
her old age. and, when the weather wan
warm, repair to the garden to
flowers. She would put a. lovely rose >t
a bouquet of little flowers at each plaif,
where her family and guests would f.nd
them when they assembled for break
fast.
Girl's Evening Frock.
Distinctly girlish is this frock of whit?
net over pink silk with its garniture of
dainty roses i*nd ribbon. The girlish
neck line is outlined by a wreath of
these flowers heading a ruffle of tlv
net. The ribbon girdle after being tied
at the back is brought again to the
front and, passing beneath the two skirt
ruffles, is tied in a bow below the tunic
This tunic consists of a double puff of
the net conflned by rose garlands to be.
freed again below the wreaths in the
form of airy ruffles.

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