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Well, faded hoi a rainy c/< They have long generous raveled. Wher old age, a Wher and poure spoilt sou A * And t you postp You t have lost < You camphor * rooted in You i Blossomti You 1 away the agined it y compound Your enjoy thei You r in their pit %xsssssssss%iex9sfss>ss9e%%9exsftes% I FEANO Grandiose Fetes Preparing at Rheims for the Event in 1916 or Thereabouts ? Sterling Heilig Tells How a Benedictine Monk Discovered the Secret of Champagne ? The .Wooden Cork?Where the Champagne Is Made. ferial Correspondence of The Star. PARIS. June 1T?. 1914. peants and recon '' W * structions. in th greatest champagne festival of historythe quarter-millennium of The wine tha Pop* They will celebrate the pop Two hundred and fifty years of pop. The anniversary will happen in 191ft r. thereabout: because, while the true dat is being fought out. it is certain that '21 > cars ago a Benedictine monk name Dom Perignon was cellarmaster c TH y CT-C" j i i i, Bt,, "EXTRA BRUTE/* ^ .. ISi ^F' KBaBEsB ie Mij what do vou mean t ?r irs you pinched out c ay? were fresh then witl \ since gnawed the patterns that Imagii e are the strong, cl is if they would not w, e are the dreams y< id a trove of sun-spu 1? :he play days you dt oned into Arcady? ried to cheat Nature all. thought that you c of expediency, and h the troughs of greed tought to miser up 1 de, to sweeten your i :ried to lock Happin stocks and bonds fo would breed interestt led its offspring of jo% pottage pots are fii n? night have had smil ace, and all this whil I PEEPAMINd tvvvvwvwwwwwwwwv WW ? e < THE AMERICAN T1 ^ Hautevillers Abbey, three miles from ( Epemay, in the period when rhampagne c was yet a "still" wine, without pop or fizz. I It had always been "the wine of kings.** ,r From St. Remv to Henry VIII of Eng- 2 p land, by way of I'rban II. King AVences,0 las. Dunois. who rode with Joan of Arc, f (j and I.?'f? X of the Renaissance, the great * )f ones of the earth loved the special wine * of the Marne. which always had Its * champagne taste, though as red as port and as fiat as Burgundy. In the opening . of the seventeenth century It began to be the p'nk of cherry color which the French call clairet, and In due time Dom Perignon became cellarmaster at Hautevillers. Dom Perignon invented wooden corks to replace the antique plugs of flax dipped in oil; and one season, when the crop was unequal, he had the idea to mix the juices of different slopes. One soil gives fragrance, another generosity, a third corrects the color, and so on. Dom Perisrnon found that he could even get a white wine from black grapes. Not only the pop, but the entire standardizing of champagne^-by types of great marks instead of by \Mntages?is due to these chance experiments of a Benedictine cellarmaster, some 2TjO years ago. It might be called the quarter-millennium of Dom Perignon. * * * Only, the pop t? not quite everything. And mixing baa oome to be almost too handy. This explains, in part, the spectacular < jubilee which Rhelms. Epemav and other cities will hold in 1916-17?if the Aube and 1 Upper Marne will let them. The "true" champagne interests want the world to * learn a quantity of striking facts. They 1 think It will help them In their business, j The true champagne (Mame> district j grows .17,000.000 quarts of grape Juice per < year. A percentage is lost in breakage and manufacture. Deduct, also, vast , train load i of grapes and juice shipped to < ser W o do wi^ *hem?tl ?f dislu. ingtin i promise, but the filmy gauzes of F tation broidered s ean years you stoi rinkle and harden a ou put by, when / n ambitions into y< mied yourself?am t of her rights, anc ould preserve Yes old it sweet and Wi the tints and frag; toil-worn and Time less in a strongbo. r which peace was just as your dearly 1 yless dollars. led to the brim?\ es and tenderness e. 1 TO CELEI k\W\\\\\V\NVVVV\\\\VX\VW RINK. n\E DEGREES OF SUGARtermany for rntxlnp with the better iass of German ohampappes. France consumes, of this true cham>apne, some 7,000.000 quarts per year. The annual foreipri shipments average !fi,000,?00 quarts. Thus are accounted for more than 34,>00,000 of the 37.O00.00O annual quarts: et the subterranean cities of the preat irms of Rhelms and Eperna.v contain a eserve of 00,000,000 quart bottles and iO.OOO.OOO quarts in casks. Not to mention the vast quantity of litJe firms. Una- tn gorniint for It? It must be, partly, because the ancient province of Chamfpasme Included two >ther modern French departments. The Aube produwes 34.000.000 quarts of Juice, iiid the Upper Marne another 37.000,000 quarts, wmoh I have not mentioned. When they want to mark their produce "champagne" there are difficulties?you have read about their veritable revolution. But when their juice is imported nto the Marne district for judlcfous mixing. ought not the great firms?and little ones?be trusted? This is not one of the striking facts which the true champagne interests want the world to learn, however. They will itall attention, rather, to the torts of the ? By HerJbe ho Ss he stained and nes to save for moths of Time "ancy, and the ire dulled and red up against Tin4*1* juug mui j'UUi 7aith was rich our eager, un1 the journeys 1 it is you who terday in the hole while you rancies of the -pocked heart. x as you lock ; sold, and imDought wealth vhy don't yon and devotion \v\\\\v\vv\vv\\v\\v\mvw HATE THE y\ u < >?" *?/ uji discovered trie pop. -PERHA.PS LESS. Aube and upper TVTarne district*?1what becomes of the remainder of their 71.000,000 quarts? Nor Is this all. The world craves to drink the wine of kings, though it be headachy, fraudulent Cremes de Bouzy ami Ay Mousseux shipped from Saumur, Dijon. Besancon and Bordeaux to England and her colonies. South Africa and the two Americas, enough to physic an army twice a week for a year of twelve months. Their corks are branded with phantom lirms. Under the auspices of mythical counts and dukes, they are labeled as of some chateau near Chalons, Verzenay, Mailly, Chigny, Moussy, Vinay, ? A RUSSIAN DRANK FIVES BOTTLES. who knows? All the cartes nolres and cartes blanches you desire. Pretty girls under the grape-leafed trellises of the champagne jubilee wiU tell monsieur the harm of wine surcharged with alcohol of the potato. The wine, perhaps, is not bad?but the potato! Of It come pains in the hairs of a morning, and disgust of living. But this wine is a wine natural, at S per cent or 11 per cent not raised. Perhaps it is from the Aube. A feature of the jubilee will be a restoration of the ruined Abbey of Hautevillers. where, 250 years ago, Dom Perignon r.t Kaufman 1 ived 1 They were opportunity fo But you w Your eyes You traffic for stacks of j\ can't purchase Now, whei learned that th ular and empt thought Strang And as yoi crying for utte But you cc It isn't your tr you can't mak< Most folks purchase neces And that'i miscomprehen need?a need t And so yoi of generosity, c gal peering fro You made Destiny doesn' YouJ re jw his youth and vwsmAmvvmvuvvvvsw QUA1TE1 3tv?*\\s\\\vv\\*v\\m\\\v Wonderful moving: picture films wil show the old monk strolling: through those very cellars where he loved to inspect the orderly ranks of the bottles, slumbering like an army. They had always slumbered. No champagne, or any other wine, had ever wakened. How did it happen? The. invention of the wooden cork was a prime element. The deep cellars of the abbey favored it. And Dom Perignon may have checked active fermentation and converted it into latent by a chance removal of casks to a colder temperature. Suddenly, the monk thrills. Before his eyes, a cork jumps from its bottle: then another, then two. then three?the wine gushing from the bottles, flowing on the cellar floor. Stupefied, the dom seizes a bottle. Astonishing phenomenon: From its mouth, a strange foam trembles, unknown, golden, and he pours a little of the effervescing liquid to the silver goblet which he always carries at his girdle. * * He tastes. You taste, I taste. But for the great connoisseur, it is to weigh the world. The Benedictine shuts his eyes. He inbreathes the fragrant gases, sniffs down the winged perfumes?aye, to the depths of his lungs, mingling1 with the oxygen of his life! His lips are not yet wet, yet Dom Perignon trembles?the sensation is so beautiful. Now, he takes his first gulp. Tongue, mouth, palate dance beneath the "pick" of the first swallow of sparkling champagne iri the world, composed of grace, force, gayety! See, he fears a disillusion! What if the new liquid, so agreeable to the taste, should have a muddy, ugly look? Nc. Nature has united in the miracle- All her seductions! The wine is light colored, clear-cut. clear as crystal! And?astonishment upon astonishment? a meteor shower of laughing bubbles dances up continually. "Star!" exclaims Horn Perignon. "I'm drinking stars!" It seems, indeed, a miracle to the old monk?the sparkling champagne that made itself by accident. Because, to the already rich perfume of the old, fiat wine of kings were added uterly new exhalations, all superb?which no man in the world, before, had tasted or dreamed of. /\ \ -v l / Bom Perlgnon became a great man. Why it popped and fizzed remained a mystery to him, as to all the others, because the connection between carbonic acid and sugar was undreamed of. Simply, they followed his rule-of-thumb formula; and he repeated, always, what he had done by accident, in mixing, shifting, bottling at a certain moment with wooden corks, and so op. Thus they found a wine that would burst from its bottle and overflow the glass, twice as dainty and exhilarating as if it had aged naturally. Louia XIV got comfort from It in his Copyright, 1914, by Herbert Kaufman. [Jr. Hi s birthrights. God r peace and grants ere not satisfied wi were dazzled by tl eked and traded, ba ink and sheafs of a single thing for 1 n it's too late to go rough all the mean y prosperity the o rled and dead have 11 sit alone in the ug franee, futilely grc in't let them out! ade. You're an e e people like you. > think that you're \sitiea are hecrarnra. o o ; one of the bitten sion of those aroun hat pride refuses t< i*ll keep on to the e\ onsideration, and fri m the dark into bri your bargain, and t take back unsatis st another fool wh spend it in his old MILLENNIA l declining1 years; but it was among th i sports of the regency that it took it - great vogue?so much so that the youni Marquis de Sillery went back to his es tates and made a fortune, manufacturinj the first "mark" in the world, to whicl he gave his own noble name. It wa also his vintage name, but he mixed. Mixing seemed to be so important tha growers who refused to mix were disap pointed?witness the Marechal de Montes quiou-a Artag-nan with his four hogs heads. In 171ft he vrote to his factor: "In regard to making my wine spark ling, many like it to foam and sparkle and I shall not object, if its quality b< not Injured. But I would rather hav< excellent wine than sparkling wine." Later he wrote: "I see how wrong . was to permit my four hogsheads to b< made sparkling. Henceforth, do no' speak of it. I wish my champagne to b< clear, fine and have a great deal o1 champagne perfume." Here was a "vintage champagne" sue! as Dr. Wiley and the manager of th< whisky cellars of the British army anc navy stores once declared to be too gooc for Americans. The term is unknown ir France?it was gotten up for the English. Cherry-colored Rouzy. Ambonna> and Cumiers have fineness and bouquet but their transport and keeping are delicate. Vintage champagnes mean so little that the names of cms?like Ay, Cramant, Avize?are scarcely known ox IN" TUB PER used, but rather the names of standardizing firms, both great and "little, some of which date back to 1734 and 1750. As Dom Perignon discovered, and as every child in Rheims knows, sparkling champagne is produced at its best only i>y juuiuvud uiiAiiifi. x->j a. grann vin," they have only to take, in equal quantities: (a) Juice of the grapes of Avize, noted for lightness, freshness and effervescence; <b) Juice from DIzy-Magenta, famous for vinousness, mellowness and roundness; (c) Juice from Ay. for bouquet, brilliancy and "go." and. Anally (d) juice from Verzenay, for both body and delicate perfume. And thus the "wine of klng^* cam? to earn its new name. It is the wine of kings and Americans, * * * Those who like a fairly "dry" champagne would have Dom Perignon with them. The grand old cellar-master made his chance discovery with natural Juices? their own natural sugar, in the bottle fermentation, made sufficient carbonic acid gas besides the alcohol. Yet when he tasted the delicious product, he felt that, could it lack anything, it might be Just a tendency toward a mere triAing sweetness. So, from the beginning, to the "cuvee" (brew) of Juices, they added a little canesiifrar sirnn* and thftv s>lc/\ facilitated the "pop" and foam grandly. Indeed, so does the foam "eat up the sugar"?while it leaves a sediment?that in the uncorking and recorking which every bottle must undergo to remove this s You bestows upon ever, him the means to ith genuine riches. le glare of brassy h rtering trreplaceabk waste paper, with i which you crave* > back to start cms and sordid strife fo Id human impulses kept alive, r}y twilight of winte >ping for expression rou don't know houyX Xpert at money mc rich, but wretches ist bits of your tra; d you, who can't g > interpret. nd, a starveling in lendships?a self-exi ight and cheery live regret won't alter i factory goods. to thought he couh age* <vwv\Awv\vm\\\msvvc\vv FM OF CHA8 e sediment the "doser" has to sweeten it s again, according to the taste and style of g its class. Regularly, there are three styles. ?r Doux (sweeti, thirteen degrees of sugar, h This is the French taste, for the home a trade, Germany and part of Russia. Demi-sec. (half dry), six degrees of t sugar. By some 't is classed as the American taste?if there be confusion, It ~ is probably caused by South American " sales. Sec. (dry), four to two degrees of sugar. It used to be called the English taste. " While Brut (crude), or nature is declared by 3 old-fashioned French to be unnatural 3 and well named "brutal," because without some bottle dosing with sugar the t wine is of such hardness that only the J extreme find pleasure in it. The brut t really has from 1^? to 1 degree of sugar. FIMED OLD CHAMPAGNE DISTRICT Otherwise, how could there be an "extra-brut?" Extra brute! * * * One of the night restaurant? of Paris consumes an average of $?oo worth of j champagne per day, year in, year out. ! "PAINS IX THE HAIRS. AND BE- l WILDEKHEM." th y man the attain it opes* s treasures which yai Wf yuilVo r apectao which wl t they- AM xsbereaB i king, bill who can't jedy?this uess your the midst led prodi~ s. the dvulm d save up fiPAGME || As the manager gets down the annual sale at 43,<XX) bottles, a short calculation snows me avcrase price to nas'e beeo near $5 per bottle. Some was dearer, and a lot uas cheaper; but. in general. Americans are surprised to tind the generous fluid no cheaper In Paris by night than at home by day. A way to judge restaurant values is to procure the wholesale list of any great Rheims house and compare its varied brands and prices. Then another, and so on. Famous firms, whose names are household words, produce mixtures which can be retailed In Paris grocery stores at $1.70, $1.45. $1.10 and even 95 cents, * * * "The Russians drink best." said the Paris manager above referred to. "One day a Russian prince drank, all by himself. a double Jeroboam, one of those immense bottles containing eight ordinary 'quarts'! It is not rare to see a Russian do his five bottles between midnight and .? a.m." After the Russians come the Americans. then the Belgians, Knglish, Germans and South Americans, especially} the Chileans. The French come last "The German is always calm, polite, never complains, never beats dowiy prices," continued the manager. "H# OF FRANCE. makes an ideal customer, the high-bnm# well-to-do German, with money to present to the birds. The Russian is generous ant bon enfant, but at times boisterous and fanciful." The American, !t seems. Is tyrannical# yet cold. "The American pays royally, but h* must have the whole establishment at his feet. The Englishman Is watchful and suspicious. Xo wonder?he has been done' so often! The South American ie very generous, a grand drinker, but noisy, gay to silliness, and quarrelsome In the late hours. Most of the painful scenes in Paris night restaurants are ^aused by South Americans. The Americans of the United States are not like :hat. Though exacting, self-centered and imperious, they are cold and self-possessed." "Whom do you have to help out the jftenest?" I asked. "The French." ho laughed. "A few lights ago three famous painters lost .he use of their legs. The waiters had ;o carry them to their taxis." * * * Another French party desired to pitch limits with the Sevres dishes. They said hey'd pay for them. "Xo. you will not pay for them," re)lied the manager, "but I beg you to day on the sidewaik. I will give von ill the plates you want." The house, it seems, has special plates for pitching. So they pi tolled on the sidewalk, to ih? I . ditieation of chauffeurs and policemen, hie son of an eminent statesman was in he same. * our breakage is $<*000 a yeAr." said he manager. Do they save it on their wholesale :hampagne bills? STERLING HBLLiG.