Evening star. [volume], July 05, 1914, Image 52

About Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972

Image provided by: Library of Congress, Washington, DC

                
T1
Well,
faded hoi
a rainy c/<
They
have long
generous
raveled.
Wher
old age, a
Wher
and poure
spoilt sou
A *
And t
you postp
You t
have lost <
You
camphor *
rooted in
You i
Blossomti
You 1
away the
agined it y
compound
Your
enjoy thei
You r
in their pit
%xsssssssss%iex9sfss>ss9e%%9exsftes%
I FEANO
Grandiose Fetes Preparing
at Rheims for
the Event in 1916 or
Thereabouts ? Sterling
Heilig Tells How
a Benedictine Monk
Discovered the Secret
of Champagne ? The
.Wooden Cork?Where
the Champagne Is
Made.
ferial Correspondence of The Star.
PARIS. June 1T?. 1914.
peants and recon
'' W * structions. in th
greatest champagne festival of historythe
quarter-millennium of The wine tha
Pop*
They will celebrate the pop
Two hundred and fifty years of pop.
The anniversary will happen in 191ft r.
thereabout: because, while the true dat
is being fought out. it is certain that '21
> cars ago a Benedictine monk name
Dom Perignon was cellarmaster c
TH
y
CT-C"
j i i i,
Bt,, "EXTRA BRUTE/* ^ ..
ISi ^F' KBaBEsB
ie Mij
what do vou mean t
?r
irs you pinched out c
ay?
were fresh then witl
\ since gnawed the
patterns that Imagii
e are the strong, cl
is if they would not w,
e are the dreams y<
id a trove of sun-spu
1?
:he play days you dt
oned into Arcady?
ried to cheat Nature
all.
thought that you c
of expediency, and h
the troughs of greed
tought to miser up 1
de, to sweeten your i
:ried to lock Happin
stocks and bonds fo
would breed interestt
led its offspring of jo%
pottage pots are fii
n?
night have had smil
ace, and all this whil
I PEEPAMINd
tvvvvwvwwwwwwwwv WW
?
e < THE AMERICAN T1
^ Hautevillers Abbey, three miles from (
Epemay, in the period when rhampagne c
was yet a "still" wine, without pop or
fizz. I
It had always been "the wine of kings.**
,r From St. Remv to Henry VIII of Eng- 2
p land, by way of I'rban II. King AVences,0
las. Dunois. who rode with Joan of Arc, f
(j and I.?'f? X of the Renaissance, the great *
)f ones of the earth loved the special wine *
of the Marne. which always had Its *
champagne taste, though as red as port
and as fiat as Burgundy. In the opening .
of the seventeenth century It began to be
the p'nk of cherry color which the French
call clairet, and In due time Dom Perignon
became cellarmaster at Hautevillers.
Dom Perignon invented wooden corks
to replace the antique plugs of flax dipped
in oil; and one season, when the crop
was unequal, he had the idea to mix the
juices of different slopes. One soil gives
fragrance, another generosity, a third
corrects the color, and so on. Dom
Perisrnon found that he could even get a
white wine from black grapes.
Not only the pop, but the entire standardizing
of champagne^-by types of
great marks instead of by \Mntages?is
due to these chance experiments of a
Benedictine cellarmaster, some 2TjO years
ago.
It might be called the quarter-millennium
of Dom Perignon.
*
* *
Only, the pop t? not quite everything.
And mixing baa oome to be almost too
handy.
This explains, in part, the spectacular <
jubilee which Rhelms. Epemav and other cities
will hold in 1916-17?if the Aube and 1
Upper Marne will let them. The "true" champagne
interests want the world to *
learn a quantity of striking facts. They 1
think It will help them In their business, j
The true champagne (Mame> district j
grows .17,000.000 quarts of grape Juice per <
year. A percentage is lost in breakage
and manufacture. Deduct, also, vast ,
train load i of grapes and juice shipped to <
ser W
o do wi^ *hem?tl
?f dislu. ingtin
i promise, but the
filmy gauzes of F
tation broidered s
ean years you stoi
rinkle and harden a
ou put by, when /
n ambitions into y<
mied yourself?am
t of her rights, anc
ould preserve Yes
old it sweet and Wi
the tints and frag;
toil-worn and Time
less in a strongbo.
r which peace was
just as your dearly 1
yless dollars.
led to the brim?\
es and tenderness
e.
1 TO CELEI
k\W\\\\\V\NVVVV\\\\VX\VW
RINK. n\E DEGREES OF SUGARtermany
for rntxlnp with the better
iass of German ohampappes.
France consumes, of this true cham>apne,
some 7,000.000 quarts per year.
The annual foreipri shipments average
!fi,000,?00 quarts.
Thus are accounted for more than 34,>00,000
of the 37.O00.00O annual quarts:
et the subterranean cities of the preat
irms of Rhelms and Eperna.v contain a
eserve of 00,000,000 quart bottles and
iO.OOO.OOO quarts in casks.
Not to mention the vast quantity of litJe
firms.
Una- tn gorniint for It?
It must be, partly, because the ancient
province of Chamfpasme Included two
>ther modern French departments. The
Aube produwes 34.000.000 quarts of Juice,
iiid the Upper Marne another 37.000,000
quarts, wmoh I have not mentioned.
When they want to mark their produce
"champagne" there are difficulties?you
have read about their veritable revolution.
But when their juice is imported
nto the Marne district for judlcfous mixing.
ought not the great firms?and little
ones?be trusted?
This is not one of the striking facts
which the true champagne interests want
the world to learn, however. They will
itall attention, rather, to the torts of the
? By HerJbe
ho Ss
he stained and
nes to save for
moths of Time
"ancy, and the
ire dulled and
red up against
Tin4*1*
juug mui j'UUi
7aith was rich
our eager, un1
the journeys
1 it is you who
terday in the
hole while you
rancies of the
-pocked heart.
x as you lock
; sold, and imDought
wealth
vhy don't yon
and devotion
\v\\\\v\vv\vv\\v\\v\mvw
HATE THE
y\
u < >?" *?/ uji
discovered trie pop.
-PERHA.PS LESS.
Aube and upper TVTarne district*?1what becomes
of the remainder of their 71.000,000
quarts?
Nor Is this all. The world craves to
drink the wine of kings, though it be
headachy, fraudulent Cremes de Bouzy
ami Ay Mousseux shipped from Saumur,
Dijon. Besancon and Bordeaux to England
and her colonies. South Africa and
the two Americas, enough to physic an
army twice a week for a year of twelve
months. Their corks are branded with
phantom lirms. Under the auspices of
mythical counts and dukes, they are
labeled as of some chateau near Chalons,
Verzenay, Mailly, Chigny, Moussy, Vinay,
?
A RUSSIAN DRANK FIVES BOTTLES.
who knows? All the cartes nolres and
cartes blanches you desire.
Pretty girls under the grape-leafed
trellises of the champagne jubilee wiU
tell monsieur the harm of wine surcharged
with alcohol of the potato. The
wine, perhaps, is not bad?but the potato!
Of It come pains in the hairs of a
morning, and disgust of living. But this
wine is a wine natural, at S per cent or
11 per cent not raised.
Perhaps it is from the Aube.
A feature of the jubilee will be a restoration
of the ruined Abbey of Hautevillers.
where, 250 years ago, Dom Perignon
r.t Kaufman 1
ived 1
They were
opportunity fo
But you w
Your eyes
You traffic
for stacks of j\
can't purchase
Now, whei
learned that th
ular and empt
thought Strang
And as yoi
crying for utte
But you cc
It isn't your tr
you can't mak<
Most folks
purchase neces
And that'i
miscomprehen
need?a need t
And so yoi
of generosity, c
gal peering fro
You made
Destiny doesn'
YouJ re jw
his youth and
vwsmAmvvmvuvvvvsw
QUA1TE1
3tv?*\\s\\\vv\\*v\\m\\\v
Wonderful moving: picture films wil
show the old monk strolling: through
those very cellars where he loved to inspect
the orderly ranks of the bottles,
slumbering like an army.
They had always slumbered.
No champagne, or any other wine, had
ever wakened.
How did it happen? The. invention of
the wooden cork was a prime element.
The deep cellars of the abbey favored it.
And Dom Perignon may have checked
active fermentation and converted it into
latent by a chance removal of casks to
a colder temperature.
Suddenly, the monk thrills.
Before his eyes, a cork jumps from its
bottle: then another, then two. then
three?the wine gushing from the bottles,
flowing on the cellar floor.
Stupefied, the dom seizes a bottle. Astonishing
phenomenon: From its mouth, a
strange foam trembles, unknown, golden,
and he pours a little of the effervescing
liquid to the silver goblet which he always
carries at his girdle.
* *
He tastes. You taste, I taste. But for
the great connoisseur, it is to weigh the
world. The Benedictine shuts his eyes.
He inbreathes the fragrant gases, sniffs
down the winged perfumes?aye, to the
depths of his lungs, mingling1 with the
oxygen of his life! His lips are not yet
wet, yet Dom Perignon trembles?the
sensation is so beautiful.
Now, he takes his first gulp. Tongue,
mouth, palate dance beneath the "pick"
of the first swallow of sparkling champagne
iri the world, composed of grace,
force, gayety! See, he fears a disillusion!
What if the new liquid, so agreeable to
the taste, should have a muddy, ugly
look? Nc. Nature has united in the
miracle- All her seductions! The wine is
light colored, clear-cut. clear as crystal!
And?astonishment upon astonishment?
a meteor shower of laughing bubbles
dances up continually. "Star!" exclaims
Horn Perignon. "I'm drinking stars!"
It seems, indeed, a miracle to the old
monk?the sparkling champagne that
made itself by accident. Because, to the
already rich perfume of the old, fiat wine
of kings were added uterly new exhalations,
all superb?which no man in the
world, before, had tasted or dreamed of.
/\
\ -v l /
Bom Perlgnon became a great man.
Why it popped and fizzed remained a
mystery to him, as to all the others, because
the connection between carbonic
acid and sugar was undreamed of.
Simply, they followed his rule-of-thumb
formula; and he repeated, always, what
he had done by accident, in mixing,
shifting, bottling at a certain moment
with wooden corks, and so op. Thus they
found a wine that would burst from its
bottle and overflow the glass, twice as
dainty and exhilarating as if it had aged
naturally.
Louia XIV got comfort from It in his
Copyright, 1914, by Herbert Kaufman.
[Jr. Hi
s birthrights. God
r peace and grants
ere not satisfied wi
were dazzled by tl
eked and traded, ba
ink and sheafs of
a single thing for 1
n it's too late to go
rough all the mean
y prosperity the o
rled and dead have
11 sit alone in the ug
franee, futilely grc
in't let them out!
ade. You're an e
e people like you.
> think that you're
\sitiea are hecrarnra.
o o
; one of the bitten
sion of those aroun
hat pride refuses t<
i*ll keep on to the e\
onsideration, and fri
m the dark into bri
your bargain, and
t take back unsatis
st another fool wh
spend it in his old
MILLENNIA
l declining1 years; but it was among th
i sports of the regency that it took it
- great vogue?so much so that the youni
Marquis de Sillery went back to his es
tates and made a fortune, manufacturinj
the first "mark" in the world, to whicl
he gave his own noble name. It wa
also his vintage name, but he mixed.
Mixing seemed to be so important tha
growers who refused to mix were disap
pointed?witness the Marechal de Montes
quiou-a Artag-nan with his four hogs
heads. In 171ft he vrote to his factor:
"In regard to making my wine spark
ling, many like it to foam and sparkle
and I shall not object, if its quality b<
not Injured. But I would rather hav<
excellent wine than sparkling wine."
Later he wrote: "I see how wrong .
was to permit my four hogsheads to b<
made sparkling. Henceforth, do no'
speak of it. I wish my champagne to b<
clear, fine and have a great deal o1
champagne perfume."
Here was a "vintage champagne" sue!
as Dr. Wiley and the manager of th<
whisky cellars of the British army anc
navy stores once declared to be too gooc
for Americans. The term is unknown ir
France?it was gotten up for the English.
Cherry-colored Rouzy. Ambonna>
and Cumiers have fineness and bouquet
but their transport and keeping are delicate.
Vintage champagnes mean so little
that the names of cms?like Ay,
Cramant, Avize?are scarcely known ox
IN" TUB PER
used, but rather the names of standardizing
firms, both great and "little, some
of which date back to 1734 and 1750.
As Dom Perignon discovered, and as
every child in Rheims knows, sparkling
champagne is produced at its best only
i>y juuiuvud uiiAiiifi. x->j a. grann
vin," they have only to take, in equal
quantities: (a) Juice of the grapes of
Avize, noted for lightness, freshness and
effervescence; <b) Juice from DIzy-Magenta,
famous for vinousness, mellowness
and roundness; (c) Juice from Ay. for
bouquet, brilliancy and "go." and. Anally
(d) juice from Verzenay, for both body
and delicate perfume.
And thus the "wine of klng^* cam? to
earn its new name.
It is the wine of kings and Americans,
*
* *
Those who like a fairly "dry" champagne
would have Dom Perignon with
them.
The grand old cellar-master made his
chance discovery with natural Juices?
their own natural sugar, in the bottle
fermentation, made sufficient carbonic
acid gas besides the alcohol. Yet when
he tasted the delicious product, he felt
that, could it lack anything, it might
be Just a tendency toward a mere triAing
sweetness.
So, from the beginning, to the "cuvee"
(brew) of Juices, they added a little canesiifrar
sirnn* and thftv s>lc/\
facilitated the "pop" and foam grandly.
Indeed, so does the foam "eat up the
sugar"?while it leaves a sediment?that
in the uncorking and recorking which
every bottle must undergo to remove this
s You
bestows upon ever,
him the means to
ith genuine riches.
le glare of brassy h
rtering trreplaceabk
waste paper, with i
which you crave*
> back to start cms
and sordid strife fo
Id human impulses
kept alive,
r}y twilight of winte
>ping for expression
rou don't know houyX
Xpert at money mc
rich, but wretches
ist bits of your tra;
d you, who can't g
> interpret.
nd, a starveling in
lendships?a self-exi
ight and cheery live
regret won't alter
i factory goods.
to thought he couh
age*
<vwv\Awv\vm\\\msvvc\vv
FM OF CHA8
e sediment the "doser" has to sweeten it
s again, according to the taste and style of
g its class.
Regularly, there are three styles.
?r Doux (sweeti, thirteen degrees of sugar,
h This is the French taste, for the home
a trade, Germany and part of Russia.
Demi-sec. (half dry), six degrees of
t sugar. By some 't is classed as the
American taste?if there be confusion, It
~ is probably caused by South American
" sales.
Sec. (dry), four to two degrees of sugar.
It used to be called the English taste.
" While
Brut (crude), or nature is declared by
3 old-fashioned French to be unnatural
3 and well named "brutal," because without
some bottle dosing with sugar the
t wine is of such hardness that only the
J extreme find pleasure in it. The brut
t really has from 1^? to 1 degree of sugar.
FIMED OLD CHAMPAGNE DISTRICT
Otherwise, how could there be an "extra-brut?"
Extra brute!
*
* *
One of the night restaurant? of Paris
consumes an average of $?oo worth of
j champagne per day, year in, year out.
!
"PAINS IX THE HAIRS. AND BE- l
WILDEKHEM."
th
y man the
attain it
opes*
s treasures
which yai
Wf yuilVo
r apectao
which wl
t they- AM
xsbereaB
i king, bill
who can't
jedy?this
uess your
the midst
led prodi~
s.
the dvulm
d save up
fiPAGME ||
As the manager gets down the annual
sale at 43,<XX) bottles, a short calculation
snows me avcrase price to nas'e beeo
near $5 per bottle.
Some was dearer, and a lot uas cheaper;
but. in general. Americans are surprised
to tind the generous fluid no cheaper
In Paris by night than at home by
day.
A way to judge restaurant values is to
procure the wholesale list of any great
Rheims house and compare its varied
brands and prices. Then another, and so
on. Famous firms, whose names are
household words, produce mixtures which
can be retailed In Paris grocery stores at
$1.70, $1.45. $1.10 and even 95 cents,
*
* *
"The Russians drink best." said the
Paris manager above referred to. "One
day a Russian prince drank, all by himself.
a double Jeroboam, one of those
immense bottles containing eight ordinary
'quarts'! It is not rare to see a
Russian do his five bottles between midnight
and .? a.m."
After the Russians come the Americans.
then the Belgians, Knglish, Germans
and South Americans, especially}
the Chileans. The French come last
"The German is always calm, polite,
never complains, never beats dowiy
prices," continued the manager. "H#
OF FRANCE.
makes an ideal customer, the high-bnm#
well-to-do German, with money to present
to the birds. The Russian is generous ant
bon enfant, but at times boisterous and
fanciful."
The American, !t seems. Is tyrannical#
yet cold.
"The American pays royally, but h*
must have the whole establishment at
his feet. The Englishman Is watchful
and suspicious. Xo wonder?he has been
done' so often! The South American ie
very generous, a grand drinker, but
noisy, gay to silliness, and quarrelsome
In the late hours. Most of the painful
scenes in Paris night restaurants are
^aused by South Americans. The Americans
of the United States are not like
:hat. Though exacting, self-centered and
imperious, they are cold and self-possessed."
"Whom do you have to help out the
jftenest?" I asked.
"The French." ho laughed. "A few
lights ago three famous painters lost
.he use of their legs. The waiters had
;o carry them to their taxis."
*
* *
Another French party desired to pitch
limits with the Sevres dishes. They said
hey'd pay for them.
"Xo. you will not pay for them," re)lied
the manager, "but I beg you to
day on the sidewaik. I will give von
ill the plates you want." The house, it
seems, has special plates for pitching.
So they pi tolled on the sidewalk, to ih? I
. ditieation of chauffeurs and policemen,
hie son of an eminent statesman was in
he same. *
our breakage is $<*000 a yeAr." said
he manager.
Do they save it on their wholesale
:hampagne bills?
STERLING HBLLiG.