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Spring Hats Made of Fabrics of Other Days
?T ANNE RITTENHOUSE. /r~\ UEEIt things are sailing over ? 1 the horizon that are called % M hats. There used to be a say Lag that whatever waa ec ceniiiu, shapeless and worn on a woman's bead waa "washed In with the tide." One could revive that old seaside Impertinence aa a criticism of much that the miUinera offer today. Those of us who have lived, strug gled and rebelled at the bitter winter that some freak of nature threw upon us?let It be the planets. If the as trologers wish, for It Is well to put It off on something that can't answer back?have reason to be cordially grateful to the milliners, no matter what liberties they took with their wares. Why? Any woman who lived through months of slush and ice can give the answer. It Is this: They filled their windows with these gay harbingers of spring, and to those who were ice bound the sight was as an oil stove blazing with flame In an Igloo to Ad miral Peary when he was In search of the north pole. It has been an Interesting street scene to watch those groups of women breaking and shifting before the win dows in which gay sunshades and brilliant hats were shown to give, a promise that skies must clear and the streets must some day be dry. It waa a bit of Palm Beach and Havana thrown on the screen In order that women might get courage. Many a melancholy face smiled at the sight of a mass of flaunting, frivolous, dar ing hats of flowers, feathers, colored straw and bright ribbons. They made a new "kind of rainbow in the sky and cast their prismatic colors across flirty piles of black Ice, sooty snow, and puddles of melting mud. * * * * It was for all these things that the public was grateful to the milliners. Heretofore women have treated with ridicule the January display of June hats, but this winter they regarded the exhibition aa an entertainment arranged to keep up their morale. It was vaudeville In the trenches. This month these gay forerunners of a happy day are posing themselves on human heads Instead of wooden stands. A virile change has come over them. Borne are like those exhibited In the winter windows; others are fashioned In a different way. They suggest a fuller development of in genuity. License runs riot, howeve^ In spring hats as it does In spring gowns. There are no leaders la the verdict of the designers; therefore the world finds Itself clutching at straws. This to good for the public and good for trade. Paris may prefer the domi nance of a small set of women as through It the dressmakers are put in a straight and narrow path; they <o not beat the atr In vain. This Is a condition of great interest because it promises individual taste; It compels a woman to think for her * self; It relieves her from slavish ad herence to a limited fashion. She can choose according to her ype and so cial opportunity. Bhe no longer feels in the discard if she does not wear what the shop* pronounce aa the latest styles and that which her neighbor brings home from a larger elty. Uncertainty, hesitation and some anxiety are evident in the new hats. The milliners have been throwing new atylea into the air in a lavish manner that suggests the use of the classic cornucopia*. They have evidently been beset with anxiety to please. They want money. "We all want money. Tet We are willing to spend when we ses what we want. It is absurd for France and England to say that America Is ponring out money on frivolities as though her gold mine was ottomless; It Is absurd for the reason that women of London gad Parts have been equally reokless for a year. True, there is mow rea son for their orgy of extravagance as peace after pain, surcease from ter ror, have always resulted In a wild awing of Ike pendulum toward rook ies s gayety and an outpouring of money and vitality. It ia nothing new that has cents into the history of mankind. It is as old as a heart beat. ? * * * It is natural that the milliner* along with alt their apparel colleagues, should take advantage of this won drous chance to sell their warea The yenduhim Is bound to swing back again. The pessimists murmuri "Let them be merry, for tomorrow they die." And the optimist will answer backs "What matters It) we have learned to entch folly as It files." Do not tfclnfe that this world mad ness for frivolity and extravagance Is going to Inst, or that it is significant sf the character of people, it is an eld, sld phase that has appeared after suffering since wars began. Next yea* ve in America may look with distaste and aversion upon ?pending money as we are spending it this season, and an the vast tebrlo of Inflated prices, of currency valuation may Ms out as n rainbow vanishes tat* the atr. Is It nay wonder then thnt the mil liners have garnered all the (Mi&s that the world offers as suitable for ha tat Aren't they clever to realise that no one to especially fastidious today If one Is only amusedT And the new hats are amusing. They have Horsehair, Supple and Transparent, Is Used by Milliners to Get the Various Shapes That the Season Permits?Rose Leaves on Brims and Crowns?The Arabian Turbans. at lefti persian turban built of red and BLACK horsehair, rolled around the edge, worn low over the forehead, and topped with a mass op short black ostrich tips. at righti Romantic hat of oilcloth with a short Italian veil op black lace, which masks the eyes, and is longbr at one side, varnished black ribbon goes across the top and ends in large bow at one side. auoh variety, they contain ao many fabric* that ware never before used in hata that the reporter of fashions ia ecstatically happy over the con glomeration, and even the woman who la not In search for more than one food hat for the spring finds heraelf intrigued by the exhibition. One might aay that the old hata were for a few women and that the new hats are all things to all women. They are built to suit whatever pecu liarity the human face may poaaess, to carry out whatever characteristic a woman like* to diaplay, whatever ?octal environment surround* her life. The difference between the old and the new la marked. There la nothing Indefinite about It. The demure look haa cone. The American aallor has vanished. The high straight turbaq with its ribbon or feathers at the aide. Insistently worn by our middle-aged women, haa bean thrown Into the dls* card. * ? * ? There Is an air of bravado about new hats that brings up the qusation of suitabtlty to the mass of women. It la not powlba for a woman with a round, yaln face aad high eater, or a faded, tired face without color, to wear hata that suggest daring, eoquet ry, a spirited dash at Independence. The other type of women must have hata. They cannot go bareheaded In the streets, but they must ehooao, and ahooaa carefully. After this warning haa been given and haa sunk Into the mind there la no reaaon for them to go bareheaded. The count era are Ailed with sensible hata. They are made of straw, of aatln and fhffeta; they are trimmed with ribbon, with to wore/ aad per haps with ? plume, a 114 they are the ones toward which the woman with out an unusual face must go. On each side of the demure hata are such things as rainbow hats, Chinese pagodas, East Indian turbans. These beckon, but only the select few should be lured. Of all these hata the rainbow one Is the moat dangeroua Over It should be a red tamp and In front of It should be a brake man with a red S*|. Yet, despite warning*, It flaahea through the street*. In the restaurants, and even In the trains. It la made In varied colors. lAtart ed with raflla braid and It has ended tn rainbow plumes that might be worn by the caparisoned horses In the dur bar at Delhi. Whoever Invented the varl-color hat should be Interned. As a bit of ec centricity, as a medium for theatrical bravado these hats had their place. They were begun tn a gentle manner, but they spread like a prairie fire, - gathering strength and glory as they want. Some of thera are strangely llko the huge panache of red. green and blue plumes that are placed on a horse's head la a procession. These are made of oetrlch feathers, the strands of which are actually colored red, pur ple and green, or red. blue and white. They fall In profusion downward from a large, round crown and thp enda of them blow about the face and over the ears la a manner that produces a look of wlldnesa and disorder In a woman's fhce. * * * * The gentle rainbow hats are small, made of slender strands of colored raffia, running In straight stripes, or pleated lato small aquarea. Over a young girl's face thla hat baa a strong attraction, especially when It la worn with a aport ault In the country. In between the quiet and the violent rainbow hata are many that cannot be put In any category. They merely adhere to the general low of placing flashing, gorgeoua, primary colors In olose and direct opposition to each other. The moat demure form that the rainbow lakes la In colored rntlla, used mm a band around the crown of mi oil cloth ha,t. Writing of curious mixtures and the unusual fabrics that milliners have exploited this season, who. In other days, would have wanted to give (40 for a flaring hat made of commoon black oilcloth and trimmed with strands of straw T Tet no one objects to this queer mixture today. An even queerer mix ture Is to combine a mass of pink rose leaves with olleloth as If on* had dropped a shower of rose leaves from a basket on the covering of a kitchen table. Who would think In other days of taking colored horsehair, rolling It Into great cable oords, mounting It on colored tulle, then dyeing au ostrich plume in flvo different colors and put ting It over the ear to hang down on the shoulder like an earring? There are hats that go further in eccentricity. These are turbans or horsehair, the kind of stuff that our grandmothers covered ths sofas with. They are guiltless of trimming on the crown, but they are glorious over each ear where their is an Immense plaque of colored crystals from which dan gles a necklace that drops under the chin. One, therefore, need not fe? dis turbed by the thought of eccentricity. One need not even try to avoid it. The publlo does npt turn and stare at cu rious clothes as It did la other days. We have become accustomed to so much. Callousness has set In. Is that to be deplored? The spring has proved ons thing,* which Is that patsnt leather and oil cloth do not belong to a day that is dbne. It was prophesied that they would release their hold on publlo fancy when the winter paned, but they have come tQ remain until sum mer, If not after. Be warned of these hats also. They require the soft modeling and smooth coloring of youth beneath them. Age should not attempt them. The face that is lined with experience, deeply touohod with cosmetlos m th? fran tlo doalre to retain the semblance of youth, needs a head covering of plas tlo fabrlo and deft drapery. Btia, se ??re lines are not for that type, nelth er are shining fabric*. Therefore oilcloth waa a dangerous material to brlag Into tha millinery hualr.oas. it ahould have been left to .he dressmakers, and If the young and thei *ay wanted to adventure Into hata 2L n^0r,',? *?* ? '?r them to decide. The very fact that they could rear oilcloth cava to them the pleas ure of drawing attention to tkelr lack of years. * * * * The milllaera are not In accord wHh bonesTwIth1 ""'f"1 Ul*Jr "trlotly T * patron. They kcow-ihe ^wever. for regard tha clever manner In whioh they line tha brim ?I an oilcloth hat with a ahower of pink roee leaves. A clever trick, thia one that should be tak*n up by the., who are building haU of taffeta, of horaohair and thin atraw. Nothing so completely keeps a harsh material away from tha face aa roses and no arrangement of roses is so graceful aa their dissolution into way ward leaves. Touth la atu-ely tug gested by this method of handing, yet age la softened. Aa horsehair la again the fashion, there win be aa added temptation to nae broken rosea aa the -fashion fbr commingling them ia aid and satisfy *&? two blend wen together ?na th?y ktrt the remarkable quality af aetUlag themselves with distinction upon a variety of heada. You may remember that fashion when it waa in its laat Incarnation. TOere were huge hata of black horse hair then, silken and translucent, that were twisted and turned Into alluring shapes that melted lato the coiffure. Pink roses were placed beneath th? lifting brim, or in a wreath arevnd the crown. Ak>ng with a boxful of ancient fab rlca and trlcka oomea horsehair. It doea not like to ha left la outer Told, probably, when ita eld frieada bare re-entered society thia spring. Qatlt lng, croaa stitch, rickrack, unbleached muslin and worsted flowera are back in the glare of fashion, aa It waa I natural for the milliners to remember another old favorite. No warnings are needed for horse hair. it la one of the moat adaptable fabrics that the milliners can exploit In a season when expert manipulation Is necessary, if one ia to follow the Various shapes that the market offers this revival is appreciated. No further evidence la needed of the conglomeration af ideaa that are pre. ?eated In the new hata thaa the Jaxta position of Arabtaa turban*, roeeleaf farden hata Egyptian >>..4 dreaaea and the remantia Spanish hat with Us veil over the eye* Ju** a few of the styles that have beea Inaugurated. Swirling around them are dosena of motha. - bltloua to be in the light. Tha tm aemtag of the ramaatle Spanlah hat waa to be expacted. Lanvln of Paste Introduced the shape with her frUled frocka of taffeta more than six ago. A few French women wore these hata while they were in New Tork, but the fashion did not get a grip an this country. * * * * Probably we are too self-conseleas ta attempt tha Latin art of coquetry except at odd moments and andar the protection of a roof: The Spaalah hat Is coquettish, yoa know, and It waaid look aalte utterly abeurd ever a face that was accuatomed to looking plain facts in the face every day. it needs to go with "the coma hither" -rrtsl In the eye Toung Americana do net lack thia look; therefore, the bat has it place ia our society. One of the strange freaks in milli nery la to build it of oilcloth with varnlahed ribbon, and from auoh a crown Is dropped a flounce of thin black lace to cover tha eyes. The fashion for veils swings be tween the masqpe veil of the roman tic period in Fiance and Italian Jfcsl ions and the long, floating veil of Arabia and Iforocoo. It is a ten-to-one wager that the America* woman will adopt the latter faahlon with more avidity thaa she will show toward tha former. Ameri cana like floating veils, even thoagh they are Responsible for the universal faahlon of plaateriag aet ever the face and drawtag it tight under the chin ta be securely eaagbt at naaa af neck. France adopted oar faahlon in fall measure and gave It op daring the war. She haa beea the aponser for the floating veil ever alnce the mlltt nere took up oriental fsahlona. Lace Is used for the volumlnoua veil, also plain tulle. Black Is not as much liked as brown, bronse and the color called blonde. As many of- the new turbans are made of opaleacent tlsaae and trim med with an ornament of motber-ef pearls, the floating veil of thin tutlo tulle gives to the most modern ef women a strong suggestion of the Mo hammedan orient. By the way, these opalescent colors grow In faahion aa the season pea-, gresses. They are strongly suggestive of the glovy of Byzantium.