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Season’s Ensemble Idea Demands Carefully Chosen Accessories BY MARY MARSHALL. SOME 6NE suggested recently that dressmakers and milliners * should no longer be called by these old-time names, but should be .knoWh as •‘ehsemblers.*’ It Is -a pity there is no good Eagllsh equivalent for this preach \vord. ••Ensemble” Is A particularly difficult work for the American-bred tongue to encircle, and "eneembler” is just a little worse. Assembler may be a dictionary equivalent, but it hardly carries the same shade qt meaning. The sigrjflcant fact Is that a lot of the French dressmakers have taken , to making and showing hats since this ensemble idea came to play such an important part in fashion. Patou and Martial et Armand are two French dressmakers who are making much of sport* clothes, and they have not hesitated to show sport hats, to gether with frocks and coats, since fashion decrees that one’s hat should m*tch one's frock. The milliners have felt the same urge''and occasionally show simple little froeks to go With the hats they haVe .on display. Oftenec there is a sogrf;-a handbag, a belt or some other accessory to go with the hat. One London”-concern is showing tweed sport skirts, together with jaunty lit tle visored tweed sport hats. Gloves not infrequently are-sold as-the affin ities of hats or scarfs or handbags. And a parasol and hat may be as in separable as two love birds cooing on the same perch. The shopkeeper couldn't think of selling one without the other. It sometimes does make shopping quite go out to buy a hat, and there is no telling what you will have to bring home along with the hat. Buying an interesting pair of shoes may lead you into buy ing an accompanying leather belt, for which you can see no immediate need in your wardrobe. ** * * 'T'HK ensemble idea is working a A peaceful sort of havoc in the de partment stores, and it is a difficult problem to find where one department ' ends and another begins. Slips have to be sold in the blouse department, or women would never be able to match their tunics to them. And it is still a hard question to decide whether an ensemble frock really be longs in the frock department, with the coats, or on the racks where the suits are shown. Doubtless this situation, amusing and sometimes vexatious as it may be. makes for much better dressing. Always women of unusual discrimi nation In matters of dress have paid close attention to the ensemble idea. They have never gone joyously forth to buy anything in the way of an ac cessory of dress that their fancy prbmpted. They have felt the neces sity always of buying everything as part of a whole. But this has been * rather unusual. Now almost every woman feels something of this urge. Fashion demands it. The result Is that women as you see them look less like lay figures in a second-hand clothes store. With this feeling for the ensemble, accessories are playing an important role. For it is the well chosen acces sory that very often links together the whole costume. Just for example. Here is a parasol and a shawl, made to be bought together. They are Lan vin green with an embroidered land scape on each. Either one worn sepa rately with an elaborate frock might appear to poor advantage, but Worn together as the sole elaboration of a severely simple white crepe de chine frock and a plain little white felt or ■ilk hat they would produce a really smart appearance. Then there is a hat and scarf to match, a wide-brimmed summery hat of pink and cocoa-colored tulle —a very smart color combination that, by the way—trimmed with a *pink tulle flower. With it goes a scarf of the two shades of tulle with a flower matching the one on the hat. With many women the problem of Things Which Are of Interest- to Younger Readers Footwork and Player’s Trick of Base-Stealing BY AL DEMAREE. (This is one of * series of tips on hast ball by A1 Denar**. formerly pitcher for the New York Giants. He writes especially for boys who want to learn to play base ball in bit league style.) The batter drives a long- fly to the left field fence. It looks like a good, safe double. He turnß first base and races toward second, only to be caught at the bag by inches. you will say, “he didn’t run fast enough.” But the drive was a long one, and the same runner had made second many times ltefore on shorter hits. FOOTWORK i 1 ' BASE ON : poor I ! GET A QUICK START/ Peter was homesick. Why it must have been years since he had seen his mother. He sat with his eyes on his history book, but his mind far away— far away to last Summer, when he and his mother had had such a lovely time together at Plnehurst Farm. Then had come Winter again, which meant that his mother, a famous vio linist, must go on tour again and he must be sent to a boarding school. Today he was resentful toward his mother. He didn’t see why she oould’t be content to settle down in some little house With him, for his father, who had died when Peter was very email, had left them enough money to live on in a modest way. He found himself feeling very jealous of his mother’s music, which took her away from him so much when he quite adored her. He thought bitterly of other fellows I in the school who went home to reg *kular mothers for their week ends, end who lived in the same houses all the time' and had neighborhood friends, and all such things that he had never had. And £oday was Mother'* day. He WHITE OILCLOTH BAG, WITH WHITE ENAMEL FASTENING, RAFFIA BAG BOUND IN PATENT LEATHER, WITH PINK FLORAL DESIGN, AND BELT AND BAG OF GREEN KASHA AND BLACK PATENT LEATHER. THEN A BLUE SUEDE BELT EDGED WITH SILVER, WITH BRACELETS TO MATCH. getting a new and smart costume this Summef does not ionSist in buying a new frock. Quite often the frock is of lesser importance. The wiser plan may be to go forth in search of scarf and hat, or "belt ahd handbag, or para sol and scarf, or shoes and gloves. A very simple little frock of neutral color is all that is needed as back ground for such distinctive accessories. One Well dressed woman is planning to have a number of simple frocks of white crepe de chine. These will be the background of her Summer ward robe. Different sets of accessories will do the rest. ** * * r\ONT you sometimes wonder when you visit the neckwear counter, in your favorite department store, who is going to wear all the collars and collar and cuff sets, all those ja bots and ties and vestees and guimpes and similar jeegaws that are sold at these busy counters? It Is especially puszling to know who Is going to wear all those finely made and quite ex pensive undersleeves. Apparently some one will buy all these things eventually and most of them before many days have passed, for the neck wear counter Is one of the busiest spots In the store at this time of year and you. have to stand many minutes before the busy little saleswoman comes to wait on you. Detachable neckwear really does re quire considerable attention. Undoubt edly the reason why the uncollared frock with woolen or silk fabric un relieved at the neckline has remained in fashion so long Is because It de mands less time and attention. And many women are going to be a long time in giving In to the new fashion for applied collars. And some women, to all Intents and purposes, have registered a solemn vow never to wear high collars as long as they live. On the other hand, there are some women who will suf fer all such inconveniences for the sake of what they consider smart. The craze for mannish effects has favored several different sorts of high collars. For sports wear there is the Where, then, lay the trouble? The answer is in his footwork. Two small mistakes in running were in strumental in putting him out by a very small margin. In the first place, he was just a little slow in starting—only a matter of seconds, perhaps, but enough to lose him the decision in a close play. Again, in turning first base, he lost a step by turning the base on the wrong foot. / To the average follower of the game these points may not seem very im portant. but they are among the de ciding factors that win of lose games. Learn to get a quick start after hitting the ball. Practice this start as a runner practices for a race. Make sure that you get off on the correct foot each time, as the wrong foot causes you to lose a step and may decide whether or not you reach first base. In turning a base in order to run to the next, learn to pivot or turn on the left foot, touching the bug on the side toward which you run. This will give you the correct balance after making the turn, and eliminate chances for losing a step in your stride. Another most important place in the game In which footwork is a de ciding factor is base-stealing. Many an otherwise fast runner Is poor at base-stealing because of his failing to “get the jump” oh the pitcher. This requires a fast start at just the right moment. Runners like Max Carey, Frank Frisch and Archdeacon, with a long list of stolen bases to their credit, are experts at knowing when to start the play and at getting away with all the speed they possess. t My advice to young players anxious to develop correct footwork is to spend plenty of time learning to start quickly and in using the correct foot when turning bases. Also it is a good plan to take such exercise as will de velop the chest and give you more wind. Long walks and practice runs will be very valuable for this. A Regular Mother. had written a long, long letter to his mother and had received a long one from her. But one look at the post mark on his letter from her had brought on this spell of homesickness, for she was half-way across the coun try from him. And most of the fellows in school had been able to go home to their mothers for the week end. ills roommate was even now In the midst of a family party, with his mother cooking his favorite dishes and fuss ing over him. Tears began to sting his eyes. He gulped, then got up and walked down to the library. There were three fel lows in the room tinkering with a radio set. They asked him to join them, but he answered surlily that he didn't much care for radio. He was starting back toward the door when he hterd, sweet and clear through the loud speaker, the sound of a violin. He stopped. The music Was lovely. He had never heard any one except his mother who played that particular piece so well, and he had heard many violinists. The piece was finished. Then the violinist started another, this time an old folksong that 4 THE SUNDAY STAR, WASHINGTON, D. C.. MAY 10, 1925-PART 5. regulation high soft collar worn with four-in-hand tie, an 4 for the tailored suit or suit frock several sorts of stock-like neck contrivances. Rather tr>lng to any but the slender est pf women is the Van Dyke collar that has been revived. It Is made of lace in imitation, not of the feminine collar of the days of Van Dyke, but of the collar worn hy cavaliers. (Copyright. 1026.) A New Anesthetic. NEW anesthetic, which ultimate ly may result in the abandonment of cocaine for this purpose, has been discovered by Dr. Schulemann, Ger man scientist, it was announced by the American Chemical Society. The new compound, known as tuto kaln, is said to have been discovered among the Intermediate products in the manufacture of artificial rubber. Unlike cocaine, it Is non-poisonous In practical use. It Is said, and can be sterilized without decomposition. “Cocaine,” according*to the society’s report, “is so much ih demand in Ger many today that because of Its habit forming properties attehipts are be infr made to discontinue Its use and gradually forbid its manufacture and traffic." Both in chemistry and pharmacy. It is said, German scientists are endeav oring to substitute synthetic chem icals for medicines obtained (tom plants. Apple Jelly. Wash apples and slice them with out removing the skin or seeds. Barely cover the frul* with water and cook slowly until the apples are* very tender; drain them through a jelly bag over night. To one pint of Juice allow a pound of granulated sugar. Let the Juice come to a boll, adding the sugar. Stir until the sugar is dissolved, then boil rapidly until the jelly point Is reached, put in tumblers and seal. Black and White, Down and Across Puzzles [‘ 1’ j [' [ Ti — MB*? y— ~ mrP - “mm— wm 5 __ ST - —pJP Mjpijr- J J || 44 ♦? ™ “““ !“*“"I "' mm 2? M —— ■*•■■■ mJBI mmm Lpm m— _ ““ ““ ““^ ‘ ““ ““'jttKp “““ Bw - U ~1 t irt-l~ni 11 M y-l Hi lll PUZZLE NO. 1. PUZZLE NO. t. Across. 1. Vehicles. 5. Heavy metal. 9. Time during Which a ship lies idle in port, without fires. 11. Babylonian goddess of war. 13. Diminutive of Elizabeth. 13. Unclose (poetic). 16. Auditory organ. 17. Earth. 18. An opera by Bellini. 19. Primitive weapon. . 22. Aquatic carnivorous mammals. 26. Writing instrument. 26. Portuguese coin. 27. Command. 29. Crosses. 31. Anything constructed of eight parts. 32-. Small plumlike fruit (plural). 33. Itiver In Belgium. was his favorite, and which tys mother had played for him so many times. During the piece he felt hi* mother so very close to him that it didn't seem strange, when the piece Was fin ished, to hear her own dear voice say ing: “I played that piece for my son, because this is Mother’s day. He is far away from me, and as I didn't know I was to play until a short while ago, I didn’t notify him to listen, but perhaps he may be hearing this, and if he is, I, am telling him, ‘Love and kisses, good night.’ ” “Oh!’* cried Peter to the astonished boys. “That was my mother! Maybe she isn’t Just like other fellows’ mothers, but she suite me right down to the ground." ■■ ■ » Girl (as her chair slipped at a i NAVY BLUE AND WHITE POLKA DOT STOCK, WITH LARGE / X PEARL PIN, WORN ROTH / \ a \ BEIGE ALPACA COAT DRESS, / i 4 B \ AND CORAL BROOCH, WORN / VU ' • W X WITH TAILORED WHITE AILK / V -\ SHIRT IN PLACE OF TIE. LARGE COLLAR OF WHITE CHIFFON, WITH COPPER-COLORED AND WHITE JABOT AND WHITE-AND-COPPER-COLORED PEARL PIN; HIGH COLLAR WITH JABOT AT BACK; WIDE LACE COL LAR. WORN WITH BLACK CREPE FROCK. Dawn. 2. Change. 3. "Cry of a sheep. 4. Country in Asia Minor. 5. Jacob's father-in-law. 6. Organ of vision. 7. A flowering plant. 8. Disturbance. 19. Ancient’city of Lycia, Asia Minor. 12. A spelling book. 14. Examined a portion, id. Particular place. '2O. White crystalline compound.' 21. Guard; used in compound Words of French derivation. 22, Wander. 23. Gdt Up. 24, Part of a college yell. 28. Self. 30. A minced oath, Answer to Ymterday's Pttrtle. ISilliiS n c clal tSß|dkfcfl {GlElftfßlYlMlAlwiDlgTßlsl Across. 1. Rob* a dwelling. 7. Long steps. 13. surface size. 14. Effect of pollen on seeds in cross-4 pollination. 16. Stronghold. 17. Symbol* for English money. 18. Check the flow Os. 20. Organization Os veterans (abbr.). 31, Athletic association (abbr.). 22. th favor of. 23. Make fun of (slang). 25. A Continent (abbr.). H. Nut ©f an African tree. 27. Concealed difficulty. I*. Stuck in-the mud, *l. wager. S 3. Aboriginal inhabitant* of Romeo. 35. Point Os the compass. *6. Son of Priam. King of Troy. 38. Those holding office. Ik Saturate*. 4*. Depression worn by Water. *l. That Which is unpaid (abbr.). 43, supplied. With wine. 44. Compensation. 46. Certain chemical compound*. 49. Boy’s nickname. 60. Entitle*. S 3. Midday. 14. Become insipid, 3*. Honorary title (abbr.). 67. A number. a asjsfds.r I *' *O. Consume. 62. Making dirty.. 66. a fermented liquor. •I. Affected manoereT 68. Seethes! 69. Concept. Literary fundamentals. TL A tribe of Iroquotan Indian*, AY- attHkdsk) . tin? . BEAUTY CHATS BY EDNA KENT FORBES. No matter how slim a figure fashion demands, square, bony ahouldera will never be considered attractive. We've done away with such things as bust and hips, we've quite eliminated dimples—to my great Joy, since I no longer am called upon to give impos sible directions for putting dimples into undimpled chins—but we don't yet believe In hollows around the shoulder bones hor an outstanding spinal column between the shoulder blades. Yet the very slim girl, who can slide into a tubular dress mode out Os a yard of cloth and look smart, while her chubby ststerß diet and pant With envy, has her own problem when she puts on an evening drees. For all her thinness, her shoulders must be gently rounded, her back flat, her upper arms well developed. And those soft, smooth lines she can ac quire by dolly, careful eaerdse and massage. Massage with cocoa butter to feed the akin. If you have trouble with the stiff butter, melt it and mix with the same amount of cold cream; this will give you a cream easier to work into the skin though not quite so fattening, flerub the shoulders and chest flrot with hot water and soap and rinse with hot water, so the pores of the skin are open and ready to take up the butter. Pin a soft cloth over the skin to protect your under clothing. for some cream is sure to work out after a massage. £>eep breathing exercise* will train the Shoulders to He flat and not to curve forward. With the bones pro truding in back. They will also de velop the chest and nil up those ugly hollows be lew the neck. Extend the arm* in front of you and. pull them back, fists clenched, to the Shoulders, as you breathe In. This helps won derfully. In a month you’ll see a great im provement, in two months you should have passably pretty chest and shoulders. COBtelia.—You cannot coarsen your hair, but you can keep it from slink ing to your head if you massage the scalp every day until you feel the Dewn. 1. Biblical character (possessive). 2. Either two constellations. 3. A color. i 4. Southern state (bbbr.). 6. Not counted. 6. Large body of water. 7. Wrongdoing. 8. Small fsetenere. I. Little word" With a big meaning. 15. Domestic animal. 11. Periods of time. 12. Name of three musical composers'. 16. Count. 11. Exchanged for cash. 11. Perththlhg to the farthest bdek. 23. Enemy. 24. calendar period. 26. Citadel of si Russian town. 28. Profitable. 30. Pertaining tolsis. 31. Wash'he Wl, 13. Exhausted. ’ 34. Rest on the knees. 3*. Church seat. ST. Cheerless. 4i. Narrew hand. 43. Lie close and snug. 46. Reversion of land to the crown. 47. Tiny mark. . 43. Plant*. 30. Uttered: musical sound*. 81. Ancient -03. Sliding knot. 64. Kind of flower. 66. Pi-ecipitation. 59. A substitute. 61. Prefla; Three. It. Os that thing, v 34. Radical organisation. 65. Put with. «T. Public way (abbr.). • - : r?.. ■■ ..Jr : v ■ • •. Jit AN OSTRICH FAN AND VANITY BAG COMBINED. A PLAID SILK PURSE WITH GLOVES AND HANDKERCHIEF TO MATCH. AT LOWER RIGHT AN UMBRELLA HANDLE AS LARGE AS A SMALL DOG, WHICH LOOKS LIKE A REAL DOG WHEN YOU CARRY IT, AND A TINY FOLDING CLOCK IN SILVER OR GOLD, WORN ON A CORD OR SILVER CHAIN AS PENDANT. blood circulating through it. Such a treatment usually shows increased vitality in the hair at once, and it Will not droop again for hours. Always use a comb with very coarse teeth and shake out your hair through your Angers to air it well. All of these measures tend to fluff out the hair and give it more life. Seed* 500 Years Old. T OTUS seeds, dormant since 1425, are to nroduce blooms in Chicago within a few months. The seeds were found In a hard, membranous husk in a bed of peat in the Gobi Desert by Prof. Ogha, who gave them to Dr. A. C. Shull, a botanist of the University of Chicago. Dr. Shull will penetrate the covering of the seeds With sulphuric acid. After soaking In the acid for two hours, the seeds will be planted and permitted to grow. What They Owed to Mother WhMi you grrow up you want, of course, to make your mother proud of you. And that very same ambi tion to please- mother is what had a very great deal to do wtih the suc cess tot some of the greatest men and womert. They wanted to please their mothers. George Washington: There's the story of George Wash ington, had how wishing to be kind to his mother changed his whole life. When he whs about Ift years old he enlisted as a midshipman, and his trunk was sent on board the ship. His mother not only hated to see him go, but She felt It was not the wise thing for him to do. When he came to tell her farewell, she burst into tears. The youthful George ordered his trunk sent ashore. •'Mother,” he said, "I cah never go and cause you so much grief. I will stay at home." This WaS 4 turning point in his life, for had lie become a sailor his career Would have been far different. Victor Hugo: Victor Hugo, the famous novelist, tells hoW his father was away from heme a- great deal and his mother Shouldered ail the raising of the fam ily hereMf. She was a determined, ambitious person, and she was al ways encouraging her son and tell ing him how sure she was that he would some day be a famous writer. He never quite got over the shock of her death, which occurred when he was Ift. Its influence is felt in his Welt known book, “Le* Miserable*.” Eugene Field: Eugene Field's mother died when he was only 6 years old, but much of his lovely poetry Is due to his mem ory of her. Her disposition, was so - Yarns of th( BY ART CHILDS. Shovel-Face Okcar. . (Up in the great lonesome woods of the North the old guides have made up many yarns which they tell dyer and'over to the tenderfeet from the Cities —their own way of explain ing the strange tracks and weird noises, Mr. Childs, who used to be & game warden In the woods of , northern Wisconsin, collected these stories himself from the “oldtlmers.”) “One et the Btrangest animals—l guess you’d call him an animal—that I overheard of up In these parts is Shovel-Face Oscar,” said the old guide, who had been giving a talk oa the' queer natural history of the north woods to a party of fishermen from the city.. “Well, that’s an odd name for an animat,” Ventured one of the men. “Yep, and it’s an odd animal. You sea, It’S this Why. As you probably knew, bass are very peculiar fish, and when they lay their eggs they do SO In a hollowedrout place on the ftaady bottoms in the shadow- waters of. an Inland lake. “Now, there's a funny little shovel faced animal than makes a business of hollowing- but tho nests for their eggs. He has four legs and he eats and sleeps underneath the surface of the water. He makes- a nice, smooth, saucer-shaped bed for each mother bass' eggs." “But where doee. he get the ‘Oscar’?” asked a listener. "He's called that after Oscar Wick Apple Pudding With Batter. Teel, core, and slice three or four apples. Make a batter of two eggs, well-beaten, one tablespoon of sugar, two tablespoons of melted butter, one and one-half cups of milk, a tea spoon of vanilla, and two cups of flour sifted with two teaspoons of baking powder. Beat thoroughly, pour over the apples, steam for 40 minutes, and serve hot with sweet ened cream or sauce. -w % Fair Exchange. Some motorists stopped their car near a farm orchard and gathered half a peck of apples. As they passed the farmhouse, they jokingly called: "We helped ourselves to your apples. Thought we'd tell you.” “Oh, that's all right.” the farmer called back. "I helped myself to your tools while you were in the orchard.” sweet and gentle and she was so very beautiful that she remained forever in his mind. Eugene said of her, “I have carried the remembrance of her gentle voice and soothing touch all through my life.” Count Tolstoy: Count Tolstoy, the great Russian writer, also had but a memory of his mother. He was very young when she died, and, strangely enough, there were no pictures of her. So he “made her up” in his mind and when he was sad and lonely used to think of her. His father told him that his mother played the piano beautifully, and that she was very clever; in fact, she spoke easily five languages. The young Tol stoy decided that he wanted to be the sort of man when he grew up that his clever mother would not be ashamed of, had she lived. So, you see, even though he'd never seen her, she had a lot to do with her son's life. Frances Willard: Frances Willard, the temperance leader, tells how much her mother encouraged her. “She never called u* 'had children’,” says Miss Willard. "She told us that we were good, and therefore she always expected good things of us. So. of course, we were bound we wouldn't disappoint her.” William Cullen Bryant: Bryant's mother taught him hiß let ters, and it was from her that he early gained his love of reading. It wasn't easy for her to find time to teach her young son, for Bryant's family was poor, and the mother of the family was a sort of factory on a small scale. She spun Hrx, wove linen, made quilts, dyed all the dress goods, and even made the candles by which the boy studied his lessons. ’ Big Woods. lem, an old fisherman, who is the first than, besides the Indians, who ever really saw one of these shovel-faced animals.” Reading is Believing Teacher—Children, Holland is noted for its cleanliness and its love of truth. Doubtful student —I don’t be lieve It: my, book says it’s a low lying country. Her Job "It's the little things that count,” said (he educational lecturer. "Yes,” responded the primary grade teacher, "hut you can't Imagine what a hard time we have teaching them to do it." Hawful! An Englishman heard an owl for the first time. "What was that?” he asked. "An owl.” was the reply. “My deah fellow, I know that, but what was 'owllng?" - Utter “Go, my son, and shut the shut ter," a mother to her son did utter "The shutter's shut." the son did mutter, "and I can't shut It any shutter.” 7