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Summer Bachelors Find Housekeeping Full of Difficult Problems _ *"**^^——i >___ - - - - . «*< —— Shopping in Washington New Neckwear Adds Spice and Charm to Old Frocks. Butterfly bow of funk georgette. All of the white satin collars and those made of satin with bengaline are included in a moderately friced grouft. The large, all-over lace collar has insets of Irish and fine edging. —Sketched In Washington Shops. BY MARGARET WARNER. WHAT a lot of difference a fresh collar makes. When a woman changes her col lar, it usually changes the entire character of her dress. Va riety is the very spice of collars, and in numbers there is safety from being a bore to yourself and to others as well. A new collar always makes your frock look up-to-the-minute, even if it is not so new; and the spick-and span effect of immaculate white at the neck is always attractive. Already new neckwear for the com ing season is making its appearance, so that you may freshen up your dark or pastel sheers with something that will retain its style value for a long while. Collars seem to have a good deal of softness, even in the tailored types; satin is a high light among the materials for early Pall wear; also lace with fagoting, lace with strips of sheer, and tiny braided edges are also most attractive. Although the high, round neck remains a favorite, there •re lull varieties of necklines to suit each individual need. /~)NE shop is showing a group of large collars that almost cover the front of the frock, thus making an ideal accessory to take on the vaca tion, where all those little helps to changes of costume are big assets. They come in a number of types, all of which make use of lace Insertion, val of a more bold pattern in linen lace, and the strips are Joined to gether In various interesting ways. White, ecru and pink are the colors of these collars, and they are priced tinder $2. The same shop is showing belt and triangle sets in satin with dots in white, which are very smart and a little newer than the crepe, although all of these are excellent for making quick changes In a white or plain colored dress. Black and white satin on a black sheer will “pep It up” in a second. Another thing, belts ars'going to be tremendously Important this Fall, and they are coming in wider, and in all the colors that you will be wanting, with nice large buckles covered writh the same soft kid as the belt * * * * QNE shop has gone in for good looking neckwear that is priced at $1 in a big way. They have literally —__ piles of boxes of lovely new neckwear over 200 pieces, to be exact—of satin, bengaline, sheer and lace collars at this popular price. They are all so fresh and so smart in design that you will not be able to resist them. We have sketched some of them for you, but that could not begin to do them justice. If you like soft, fluffy bows in white or delicate pink you may have your choice in size and edge finish of the ruffles, there are some made of fas cinating new fine crocheted stitch in white that are as delicate as butterfly wings. There are quantities of interesting designs in white satin to become every sort of neck, and the combination of satin with bengaline is very good. too. Satin-covered buttons or clear glass and little bows make the finishing touches. There are many jabot ef fects and the backs of the collars are smartly different. The same shop reports that flowers will continue to be worn this Fall and they are already showing them in patent leather in the darker colors of purple and dubonnet. Clusters of wood brown and soft rust-colored flowers are shown in satin, also the darker greens. Grape clusters will be very important. In shining white satin for evening they are lovely and quite suitable for immediate wear. COME of the shops are selling hand kerchiefs at 18 cents apiece, or six for *1. They are a very good value for this price. Some of them are all white with borders of cording in a nice size and good quality of French sheer. Others go in for mod ern designs and bright peasant color ing and combine block prints with applique flower motifs in a new and very decorative way. The pastel hand kerchiefs with large petit point ini tials done in French blue with tiny pink roses are another good item, and some covered with little rose buds in the Dolly Varden manner will appeal to those who are not so keen about the ultra modern. The bright awning-striped handkerchiefs with plain dark appliqued centers at 50 cents are perfect for vacation sports wear. For information concerning items mentioned in this column, call Na tional 5000, extension 342, between 10 and 12 a m. flrtL h /!&a> C&roo&s a CKnittd Square ^Makts Jtaruhonu Cfceenories PATTERN 5409 If you want a bit at knitting that you can pick up at odd moments, this square should be your choice. It is really made up of four squares Joined to gether to form one handsome large one measuring 12 Inches An easy bit of knitting, you will soon tod you have a pile of squares to Join into some attrac tive accessory. You can make a bedspread that will bolster your pride and win you the admiration of your friends. You can also use the square for pil lows, scarfs and other household accessories. The design is slightly raised against a plain knitted background, the lacy diagonal stripes at intervals, set ting It off. In pattern 5409 you will tod complete instructions for m.Hn, the square and Joining it to make a variety of accessories; an illustration of it and of all stitches needed; material requirements. To obtain thu pattern send 10 cents in stamps oricoin to the Woman’s Editor of The Evening Star. Vitality Has Influence in New Charm Classic Ideals Offer Only a Fraction of Personality. BY LOIS LEEDS. COME ONE has said that a woman’s ^ personal attractiveness Is made up of one-quarter beauty arts, one quarter natural beauty and one-half personality. Classic perfection of face and figure Is not necessary to charm by any means. Irregular features, tall ness and shortness are not the insur mountable barriers to beauty that some girls imagine them to be. What is essential is a certain poise and zest in living which is magnetic. It is this radiant quality that your favorite movie star fosters most assidu ously. She had natural good looks to begin with and uses makeup skillfully just like thousands of other girls, but it is her vitality, her surplus physical energy that has carried her to star dom. The cultivation of this vitality, this dynamic health, is just as worth while for you as for her. There is, of course, more to an attractive person ality than mere animal spirits—there is the emotional and mental side—but for those who lack personal magnetism the most practical approach to it is through the physical. A great many girls and women never know real physical fitness. They are not really sick, but they have only enough physical energy to get through their dally routine. They don't carol in their bathtubs nor run lightly upstairs. As children they were full of life, but now they plod with little enthusiasm for anything. These are the people who complain that no body notices them nor finds them at tractive. If you have allowed yourself to fall Into this class and want to snap out of It here’s how to begin. You can bring out the latent charm of your personality if you will plan systema tically for It. Concentrate first on building up abounding health and vitality. You may have to neglect some of your usual duties and give up some long-cherished habits, but if you will make the necessary sacrifices you are sure to win out in the end. Your renewed physical force will make all your old tasks lighter and you will have energy to spare for those stim ulating. extra activities and hobbies that you now lack the strength and enthusiasm to pursue. Begin by taking enough time for sleep. If you are thin and below par physically, be in bed for nine hours out of each 24. This may Include eight hours at night, with a one-hour nap after luncheon. Sleep in a quiet, dark and well ventilated room without a roommate if possible. You need to gather vitality from sunshine and outdoor air, so plan to spend at least two hours every day in the open. Even if it rains, go out and take a walk. Business girls can get in their two hours out of doors by walk ing part or all the way to and from their work, spending half their lunch hour outdoors and taking advantage of the long Summer evenings. You can't keep vital and full of pep without regular exercise of some kind to stir up your circulation. Five minutes in the morning and 10 in the evening should be given to exercises for stretching and Umbering the mus cles and massaging the internal organs. Deep breathing will come naturally with brisk exercise. The right kind of diet is, of course, essential. Eat Intelligently. Most of us know better than we practice when it comes to eating. Think of your meals as means of building a radiant personality. Don’t clog your system with rich, indigestible foods. Don't let an uneducated appetite ruin your beauty. Learn to like spinach if you haven't already done so. H. E. B.—The average weight for girls of 13 who are 5 feet 1 inch tall is from 102 to 112 pounds. Wear your hear bobbed, parted on one side and held with a barrette. Do not try to remove the facial hair. Best leave It alone as others do not notice it as much as you do. You cannot remove it yourself perma nently. Questioner. The average weight for girls of 14 who are 5 feet 4 Inches tall is 118 pounds. You are 29 pounds underweight! You should be under a doctor’s care and follow his Instructions on diet and other things. Send me a stamped <3-cent>, self addressed envelope and ask for my leaflets, "Daily Care of the Skin'’ and “Corrective Treatments for Black heads and Pimples.” A Faithful Reader—The average weight for girls of 15 who are 5 feet 1 inch tall is 106 pounds. Send a stamped (3-cent), self-addressed en velope for my leaflet, “Make-up for Your Type.” A high side part is usually becoming to a full face; comb your hair back from your brow. Ask for the leaflet, “Unhealthy Hair,” when you write again. (Copyright. 1935.) Psychology BY DR. JESSE W. SPROWLS. Personal Force. 'T'HE human body is a machine. Cer tain forces keep this machine go ing. Glands, muscles and a digestive system are the better known ones. The human mind is often called a machine. Less is known about the forces that keep it going. For these forces run into the thousands. Perhaps the most important of all the mental forces is that which we call memory. It sometimes becomes inactive. When that happens, the mind is gone. The personality that formerly hooked up each yesterday with each succeeding today loses its identity, as well as its ability to adjust the body to the common affairs of life. Few of us take the time to study that force called memory- It works day and night. That’s why our dreams are Important. No one can success fully refute that we solve many of our problems while we sleep. The memory works among its contents, selecting and rearranging them so as to get ready for another day. In other words we organise our wishes. These, in eome mysterious way find expression in all we do or try to do on the mor row. When we stop dreaming, we lose our memories. A great mental force then begins to slow down and life becomes an existence rather than a challenger # our daily problems. (Copyright. 1935.) That “Feminine Touch” Is Important Factor In Home Making Tasks To Save Wear and Tear on the Premises and on the Nerves, Domestic Help Is Indicated. BY BETSY CASWELL. THIS Is the moment when Sum mer bachelors take precedence over feminine kitchenette housekeepers. These poor helpless souls (that Is what they call themselves, but I don’t believe one word of it!) find out that the little woman has not been making a "fuss about noth ing,” and that there is some thing besides ease and comfort in running a house, after all. Dishes have a dramatic way of piling up; beds, no matter how carefully made, Bcuy C»»weU. inevitably get at sixes and sevens three minutes after the occupant has turned in: rolls of dust accumulate with horrifying rapidity, and the gold fish or canary birds left in the mas culine hands invariably sicken and die. As for the cherished plants and window boxes-! When the lady of the house return% all that is left of her bright geraniums and petunias are some withered stalks set in hard baked clay. * * * 'T'HERE Is no use, really, In expect ing anytlfing different- The much-overworked • feminine touch" is definitely an important factor, and no matter how scientifically a deserted husband tackles the job of keeping house, things always seem to go wrong in a big way. Even the laundry gets mixed up, and the collars come back with a nice saw-tooth edge, the socks are shrunk to infants’ size, and no one has any record of that last pair of white flannels that went to be cleaned. My advice to the abandoned gentle men, in this case, is to invest in solid comfort in the form of a competent household assistant. The extra ex penditure balances itself in the end by saving on materials, general wear and tear, and the employer’s nerves. Chalk it up as "Summer expense" and proceed to reap the benefits there from. A “scrub lady,” or chore man. will come in for a few hours every morn ing, and reduce chaos to order in a remarkable manner. Dishes will be washed, laundry will be sorted and sent out, telephones will be answered, beds will be made properly and floors will be innocent of dust. Canary birds and goldfish will prosper, and the flowers will bloom in profusion. (This is, of course, assuming that you find a real gem. Sometimes the cure doesn't work in all departments.) * * * * T TNDER this regime, breakfast should be the only meal taken at home. It does a husband good to go out for dinner, anyway—he Is apt to appreciate the benefits of home life all the more; alto, It gives him a bet ter understanding of the cost of food. If kindred spirits do come in for a bit of liquid refreshment before turn ing in, the assistant will be on hand in the morning to wash glasses and empty the ashtrays. And. from the woman’s point of view, the house and all its equipment will be In a lot better condition when she returns home from the seashore or mountains.. * * * * WEEKLY KITCHENETTE MENUS. MONDAY Shrimp Cocktail Curried Rice GrUled Tomatoes Fresh Peas Cherry Pie Coffee TUESDAY Hot Consomme Eggs Benedict Mixed Green Salad Lemon Jelly With Cream Iced Tea WEDNESDAY Assorted Hors d'Oeuvres Club Sandwich Pickles Honeydew Melon With Lime Iced Chocolate THURSDAY Clam Juice Cocktail Broiled Lamb Chops Squash Pried Potatoes Ginger Sherbet rCo ffee FRIDAY Tomato Juice Cocktail Crab Flake Salad Cucumber Sandwiches Chocolate Eclairs Iced Tea SATURDAY Jellied Chicken Soup Corned Bee! Hash Cold Slaw Peach Shortcake Iced Mate SUNDAY Cantaloupe, Chilled Broiled Steak Shoestring Potatoes Corn on the Cob Pineapple Sherbet, Cookies Coffee If you wish advice on your indi vidual household problems write to Betsy Caswell in care of The Star, inclosing stamped, self-addressed en velope for reply. Dorothy Dix Says Marriage Does Not Mean Woman Can Cease Effort to Please. A GIRL thinks about marrying' pretty much as a man thinks , about retiring from business. Getting to a place where one has achieved one’s objective, where one has secured a livelihood and where one can sit down and rest and i take things easily. She thinks that she will no longer ] have to wear herself out weaving - spells about a man that she has al ready caught; that she will not have to primp and powder and paint and doll herself up so that she will look good to a mere husband: that she will not have to flatter and cajole him and labor overtime, as she did in the days of courtship, to keep him interested and amused. In short, she looks upon marriage as sort of Ely sium in which a woman can throw all her tricks out of the window and eat all she wants to and let out her corset strings and discard all tact and subtlety and just let Nature take its course. This mistaken theory concerning the privileges and emoluments of matrimony Is one of the main reasons why there are so many wives beating their breasts over husbands who are lost, strayed or stolen, and why there are so many divorces. For catching a husband is easy enough. Holding him is the thing that takes per petual vigilance and keeping on the job. And so those ladies who hold to the faith that marriage gives them the right to slump are headed for much grief. t * * * * TT IS the greatest pity in the world that women do not realize that marriage should not be the end but the beginning of a woman's attrac tiveness, and that she should p>ut forth a thousandfold more effort to be fascinating to her husband than she was to her suitor. For to lose one’s sweetheart Is merely a tem porary inconvenience, while to lose a husband means a wrecked home, a broken heart and half-orphaned little children. In all good truth, marriage Is the turning point of every woman’s life. It is then that she begins either to peter out or to make something of herself. Up to then she has had the freshness and beauty and allure of youth. She has had the animal gay ety, the high spirits, the playfulness that make all young things seem sprightly nd Intelligent. Well, these charms will soon go, and then a wife has to decide what sort of show she Is going to put on for her husband for the balance of their lives, whether she will give a performance that will keep him giving her the glad hand or one that he will run out on. ¥ ¥ ¥ ¥ /~vp COURSE, every woman to her ^ senses knows that by no miracle can she keep herself always young and beautiful, no matter how many facials and permanents she has, but every woman can keep herself easy on the eyes if she is well dressed and well groomed. Some wit has said that the secret of the sirens’ power was that they spent their private lives in scrubbing their elbows, and certainly no wonAn lacks charm whose personal appearance is im maculate. The homely women are the slpyens yjhose hair is never combedT whose frocks never fit, and • who look as if they need to be run through the laundry. Every woman when she gets married decides for herself whether she is going to degenerate into a bore, or keep herself interesting. She decides whether her husband will get tired of her and lose his taste for her or not. There are plenty of women who, as soon as they are married, give up whatever accomplishments they have had. They never touch the piano again or sing any more. They never read a new book or even the news papers. They give up their clubs and drop out of society. They never have a new thought or a fresh idea and they get as dull as dish water. *** TT IS no wonder that the wives who make no effort to keep up with their husbands mentally and socially and who never try to be bright and entertaining and amusing and sym pathetic drive their husbands to other women lor companionship. The wives who pal with their husbands, who are always ready to grab their hats and go when their husbands want to step out, who are good listeners and who always have something interesting to talk about, never have to complain that they are left to spend l&nely eve nings at home while husband diverts himself elsewhere. And women decide when they marry what kind of wives they are going to be; whether they are going to be help mates or parasites; whether they are going to be peevish and fretful and complaining or good sports; whether they are going to take matrimony on the chin or go down before the first blow. For marriage isn’t the end of things to a woman. It is just the beginning, where she starts out to make what she will of it. And there is no place in it where she can sit down and fold her hands and take it easily. DOROTHY DIX. (Copyrleht. 1935.) Style Trend. LONDON {IP).—Ostrich feathers and taffeta play an important part in hat trimmings. Pale yellow and green feathers grace large black hats, and scarlet taffeta is swathed across white straws, from the front brim, over the crown, to end in a large cockade at the back. My Neighbor Says: Keep all dead flowers cut oft. They take the strength from bulbs and roots of plants. Granulated sugar sifted over the top of sponge cake before put ting It into the oven gives It a rich brown crust when baked. Always rinse chamois and doe skin gloves in soap water and dry where heat is not intense if you wish to keep gloves in good condi tion. . _ To fiyshen a,fg0ed rug or car pet, wip4 oft' with a wet cloth wrung out •f.&rong salt water. 8prinklU% dampened salt on rug, then sweep dig,*wyi give the same result (Conrrisbt. 1935.) Dress Puts One in Mood For Trouble Dramatic Force Will Be Found Always Among Children. BY ANGELO PATRI. T OUD yells and screeches echoed down the beach. Hettle looked up from the castle she was building and said, • Margie’s bein’ bad.” “Why, I wonder?” “I don’t know. Guess ’cause she wants to.” Margie's screams grew louder and people looked In her direction. “Hush. Margie, hush! Everybody's looking at you.” “I don’t care. I don't care. Let me go. Let me go. I wanna go-o-o!” Norah set her jaw grimly, tight ened her hold on Margie’s arm and hustled her toward the cottage. Mrs. Witherby was at the door to meet them. “What is it? Anything hap pened? Is she hurt? Margie, stop yelling!” “Nothing In this world the matter with her, madam. She just up and yelled and danced and behaved that ill I brought her in before she dis graced herself forever.” Margie, angry to the roots of her hair, stamped and screeched. Mother put her fingers in her ears and Norah shook her sharply. “Stop it! You bad girl, you.” Grandma came downstairs, gave one look, swept Marjorie into the house and up the stairs without a word. The howls died almost in stantly. No sound came from the 1 upper regions and mother sighed in relief. "Nothing happened to her, | Norah? You’re sure?" “Certain, madam. Just the badness In her. That’s everything that's the matter.” After a time grandma came down the stairs leading a lovely little girl by the hand. This little girl was I dressed In a pale blue organdie frock. Bare legs, white sandals, short socks with a blue line at the ankle. "We're going to call on Evelyn and her mother. We will be home for tea, please," said grandma, with a touch of dignity and formality that was charming. After bedtime, when Margie was asleep and the two ladies rocked on the p<jrch, grandma said: "I put that dress Margie had on this morn ing in the waste bag. It was injr possible.” "Her dress? I didn’t notice. Was it soiled, or torn, or wha^?” "It was impossible. Orange and red and green stripes, and an orange red hat. She looked like an awning out for a gallop with the wind. No wonder she had a temper spell. Who in the world bought the thing in the first place?” "Katherine made it for her birth day. I thought it very gay for the beach. You think it was-” "Impossible. It made her feel loud and vulgar and rebellious. The child takes the mood of her dress quickly. The moment I took out her pale blue organdy and the blue ribbons she changed into a gentle creature, all smiles and good manners. Dress her for the right mood and we won’t have so much trouble. Dress is dramatic. That is why we have uniforms. Children are espe cially impressed by clothes, so choose them for the occasion and the mood. They are very effective in influencing manners and behavior. (Copyright. 1935 ) Cook’s Corner , BY MRS. ALEXANDER GEORGE. AN AVGUST SUNDAY DINNER. Honeydew Balls Lemon Quarters Fried Chicken Buttered Lima Beans Baked Hubbard Squash Peter Piper’s Pickled Peppers Biscuits Plum Jelly Jellied Cheese Salad Peach Shortcake Whipped Cream Coffee BAKED HUBBARD SQUASH. Hubbard squash U teaspoon celery 1 teaspoon salt salt V« teaspon pep- 2 tablespoons butter per 3 tablespoons cream Wash squash, cut in halves and bake in moderate oven until tender when tested with fork. Remove seeds and mash the pulp. Add rest of in gredients and beat. Place in buttered baking dish (shallow one) and heat 10 minutes in moderate oven. PETER PIPER S PICKLED PEPPERS. 12 large green pep- s cups boiling water pers 5 tablespoons salt 12 large red pep- 2'i cups sugar pers (sweet! 6 cups vinegar 4 cups chopped 2 tablespoons celery onions seed 4 cups chopped 2 tablespoons white celery mustard seed 4 cups chopped 2 tablespoons yellow cabbage mustard seed Remove seeds and pulp from pep pers. chop peppers fine. Add water to peppers, onions, celery and cabbage. Boil 10 minutes. Drain and add rest of ingredients. Simmer 1V2 hours or until thick. Pour into sterilized jars and seal. JELLIED CHEESE SALAD. 1 package lime gela- cup cottage cheese tin mixture cup diced pine 1 cup boiling pine- apple apple iulce >4 cup diced celery H cup boiling water y« cup chopped pi 2 tablespoons sugar mientos 1 tablespoon vinegar v„ teaspoon salt Pour pineapple juice over gelatin and stir until dissolved. Add water, sugar and vinegar. Mix well. Pour into shallow mold. Chill until little thick. Add rest of ingredients, mixed to gether. Chill until firm. Style Trend. A nun-like simplicity marks some of the black daytime frocks for late Summer wear. They are designed with the simplest neckline without a vestige of color, or touched only with a rim of white, while a few new din ner gowns are cut with the long sleeves, tight bodices and full skirts of the Italian Renaissance. ORANGE CHERRY GRAPE LEMON-LIMI STRAWBERRY , RASPBERRY J Matron’s Formal Gown Soft and Gracious Lines Add Charm to Caped Model. JGS2-5 BY BARBARA BELL. OT Summer afternoons make special demands on the ward robe of the average woman. ■ There must be dresses that are not too elaborate nor too fussy , in detail to make her appear at her best. But she should have things that are soft and gracious in line and are quite different from the sports dresses, in which she spends most of her days. This season the gracious afternoon frock is more apparent, where smart women gather, than in many sea sons passed. There is a tendency towards the wearing of dressier cos tumes for leisure hours, which is wel comed by women who tire of the sim ple, straight-lined frock, which had become almost a uniform in years gone by. Capes are important in the mode. They appear on every sort of dress and are particularly at home in the afternoon dress of sheer fabric. Fur thermore. they are unusually becom- j ing to the older woman, for they tend to make hips slim, in contrast, and as there is no necessity for sleeves when they are employed there is the advantage of coolness and comfort. The cape in today's illustration reaches almost to the waist and quite to the elbows and Is edged with a wide band of net or any transparent material.; It crosses, surplice-fashion, in the front, and is adorned with two huge flowers. The skirt has inserts at the sides, starting at the knees or there abouts, the flaring line at the bot tom of the skirt being in harmony with the wide cape and most becoming to the woman of mature figure. Sheer materials are much used for afternoon. Chiffon, of course, is a Summer favorite, and marquisette is a newcomer to the mode, and is ex tremely effective. Cotton voile is The Old Gardener Says: The often-repeated question, “Why do my wistarias fall to bloom?” is difficult to answer. These plants often come Into bloom suddenly after many years. Others are permanently barren and might as well be ripped out. They are usually plants grown from seed. Grafted plants should always be demanded, for they usually bloom when only 3 feet high. They may cost a little more than kinds grown from seed but are worth the difference. Much can be done to make wis tarias bloom better by cutting the long straggly canes back to within 4 feet of the old wood. August is the time to do this work. New spurs will be developed and flow ers are likely to appear on them. (Coprrlsht. 1935.) Renders* weather proof" complexion of entrancing beau ty that neither sun. wind or water can destroy. Enjoy the outdoors without fear of sunburn, tan or roughened skin. ORIENTAL ja* CREAM 4 Qouraud Wkln . fUtli • >«cli«l OrlfftjTa* much liked, and is cool and prac tical. hating the non-crushable qual ity acquired after much experimenta tion on the part of the manufacturer. The synthetic sheers have their own special place in the fashion, and as^ they are produced in the loveliest colors and designs, are greatly liked. Prints are particularly adaptable to the dress illustrated, the floral pat terns being most popular. Barbara Bell pattern No. 1682-B is designed in sizes 34. 36. 38. 40, 42, 44, 46 and 48. Size 36 requires 5 yards of 36-inch material, and ** yard of 36-inch for contrast. Barbara Bell Washington Star. k Enclose 25 cents in coins for pattern No. 1682-B. Size Name___ Address_ i Wrap coins securely in paper.) more Sunkist Oranges FOR YOUR MONEY! AT TOU« ' DEALERS !' 1 1 .. . — Buy NOW—today—and receive 25% more orange* without a •penny more to poyl Sunkist California Oranges were never more abundant—never «weeter -never juicier. They give you all four protective food *s*en tial* (vitamins A, B and C, and calcium)—guard teeth and gums —improve digestion and build up your alkaline reserve. CopyrirM. 1935. California Fruit Growers Lxehange no*!