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Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972, January 19, 1938, Image 14

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Cutting and Shaping Form Basis of Chic Coiffure, Says Paris Authority
Wise Women Change
Hair-Dress Before
Buying New Hats
According to Present Trends,
Curls Will Be Piled High
Atop Exposed Necklines.
AT THE very psychological moment when women are beginning to think
In terms of new spring bonnets and what effect they are going to
have on the arrangement of their hair, comes M. Andre Muzet to
town to solve a lot of their difficulties.
. .. M- Wuzet, you will recall, is the American emissary of that famous
of th« coiffure, M. Antoine, whose collection of lacquered coiffures of
women of history made such a sen-*f-—___
eanon at tne Paris Exposition last
summer. M. Antoine, who is an
artist and sculptor, in addition to
being an outstanding creator of fem
inine fashions in beautiful hair ar
rangements, has completely imbued
M. Muzet with his ideas and technique,
and it is from M. Muzet that we
have just learned some interesting
things about the whys and wherefores
cf the present upward trend in hair
Said M. Muzet: “A woman cannot
see the back of her head.' She does
not realize what a shapeless and
generally untidy picture it presents,
except for the first day or two after
she has had a shampoo and wave.
But what about all the rest of the
days before it is time to have an
other shampoo?” According to M.
Muzet, if the hair is properly shaped
In the beginning, and then given the
necessary body by means of a care
fully administered permanent wave,
the coiffure should remain intact and
good to look upon from any angle
until the next shampoo.
* * * *
'THIS would seem to be the very
pot of gold at the end of the
rainbow, and as hard to accomplish
as finding that gleaming treasure.
But, according to our authority, it is
not so difficult. The prime requisite
seems to be a dash of strong American
courage that will pry women loose
from the same ideas about hair styles
that they have been clinging to for
several years past. In point, we refer
to the page boy bob so beloved by
the younger crowd, and similar very
long, almost shoulder length hair-dos
that, unless beautifully done and con
stantly recombed, are apt to present
ft rather distressing appearance be
tween the hat and the collar of a
Winter coat.
M. Antoine and his representative
plead with the American women for
ft little less conservatism and a little
more art in the matter of their coif
fures. Why wear the hair so long,
W'hy hide the natural contour of the
head, why be afraid to show the lovely :
line of a long, graceful neck if you !
have one, or to create the illusion of
ft longer one if your neck is.tou short? j
Why be afraid to try a new hair
style that is definitely smart, with its
upswept lines swirled into place to
•uit the features of the individual?
We are all so accustomed to the com
I-. =T1
of the
1 ✓ 1
TIfE’VE decided that the thing we
‘ ” want most is a pair of ear muffs.
There are times when the noises
around the house have us practically
hysterical. And those are the times
when we think it would be lovely just
to sit down in a big chair with a pair
Of ear muffs on.
Of course, probably we could teach
Ourself to pay no attention to door
bells and telephone bells if we just
put our mind on it. After all, we
don’t answer them when we’re out.
And there's no reason why we should
always answer them when we're in.
But, just the same, it's hard. We al
ways think the door bell might be an
Important telegram ... not that we
ever get Important telegrams, but we
always think we might. And we never
can quite resist the peal of the tele
phone bell.
So we’ll just have to get ear muffs
for those times when answering bells
Is not on our schedule. Then we’ll
be able to go about our business peace
fully and let the bells peal.
(Copyright, 1938.>
forting warmth of too much hair on
the neck that we are cautious about
risking a neckline; even though it
might give us a modem streamlined
smartness that would prove captivat
ing in the extreme.
In Paris women are quick to change
to another fashion once the old one
has become too widely copied. The
Vrench woman of elegance who no
tices that some one is wearing a hat
that is like hers, quickly sets about
making a slight change so that hers
will have an individuality not shared
by another. So it is with her coiffure.
She likes to have her hair Individually
styled and accepts readily the advice
of a skilled hairdresser, who can offer
her something smartly new and dif
ferent, and yet adapt it to her own
type of features and her texture of
* * * *
^OW a word about the relation of
the new spring hats to the coif
fure. There is a very close alliance
between milliners and hairdressers.
In Paris three famous milliners,
Agnes, Rose Descat and Lucienne of
Reboux, go to Antoine’s studio to
study his newest coiffures for inspira
tion and guidance in creating hats
adapted to the latest modes. It is the
same in this country. The trend in
coiffures must be studied before the
hats are designed. And the same
holds true of choosing your first spring
hat; have your hair styled first and
then choose the hat to complement it.
Do not make the mistake of buying
your hat first and then asking some
one to dress your hair to look well with
the hat.
Spring hats are made in unusually
small head sizes in order to fit easily
on a closely cropped head. The tiny
pill boxes with back bandeaux that
are worn tipped over the right eye
are good examples. The bonnet shapes
worn well back on the head look best
without a large puff of hair below
, «-rm at the back.
Nothing has been said about the
arrangement of the hair around the
! face. That is a matter that easily
I takes care of itself. Most women
i know how to frame their faces at
tractively, whether or not they can
wear curls on their forehead, or need
softness at the sides. This is a very
simple matter. In fact in many in
stances the same front arrangement
can be continued with slight changes,
with the more closely molded line at
the back.
A neckline does not always mean
that the hair must be very short.
Often there is a pointed neckline, but
the hair above it is swirled to the side
with flat curls placed diagonally
across the back of the head in the
I typical Antoine manner. For eve
ning do not be so practical, in fact,
throw wisdom to the winds and be
utterly lovely with lots of curls and
puffs high on the head, but think of 1
that coiffure as one for that evening
alone—a dream that passes in the
morning—and do not expect it to serve
you also as a practical daytime coif
fure for the rest of the week. In the \
morning shake out the lacquer, the '•
powdered gold and silver star dust
that made you so glamorous, and hie
yourself back to the salon for your
smart daytime head that means so
much in the busy life of every woman
Making Candy Rolls.
To make candy rolls, shape beaten
penoche or old-fashioned caramels
into a one-inch roll. Sprinkle the
roll with coconut, chocolate shot or
broken nuts and cut into one-inch
slices. Fancier rolls may be made by
flattening the candy and spreading
it with nuts or other confections be
fore rolling.
this afghan pattern has been a favorite with crocheters for genera*
1 "*■ tions, and we don’t blame them a bit. For each 4’2-inch requires
only 15 minutes to make, and you can use all your odd scraps of yarn without
detracting from the charm of the pattern. Making it in Shetland floss,
rather than of heavier yarn, will produce a lovely baby carriage cover, too.
The pattern envelope contains complete, easy-to-understand, illustrated
directions; also what crochet hook and what material and how much you
will need.
To obtain this pattern, send for No. 419 and inclose 15 cents In stamps
or coin to cover service and postage. Address orders to the Needlework Editor
Ot The Evening star.
Swept-Up Locks Smart and Becoming
>1/ left is shown a coiffure that is swept up from the neck hut does not require extremely short hair.
At right is a practical daytime arrangement that is easily kept in smart order.
_ —Photoa from Joseph Capitalne. New York, and J. H. Connelly. Chicago.
Should Not
Dine Out
Strain on Child
And Parents
Too Great.
^ A dine with Mr. and Mrs. Prim.
Gritty, 2-year-old, went along. At
home Gritty sat at the table with her
father and mother and mealtime was
not formal to any degree. Gritty
would reach across and help herself
to a handful of mashed potato from
her mother's plate and her mother
would say, ‘‘Oh, Gritty, right in my
plate. That isn't nice. Look at your
self." and then she would take her
napkin and rub Gritty to a passable
state of cleanliness. About then Gritty
might decide that she wanted to drink
her father's soup; make a catch at the
plate; miss it; smack her face against
the table; cry; be comforted; grasp
the edge of the nearest drinking glass
and spill it. "That will be enough,”
and somebody would carry her off
screaming murder.
"Well, what do you expect?” mother
might ask of the unseen audience.
“She's only two.” And nobody, cer
tainly not the unseen audience, could
question that.
The family arrived at the Prims’,
and Mrs. Prim said, "Does the baby
eat with the family?” Father looked
at mother and mother looked at him.
Then mother plunged. “You see we
are alone so much, and her father
sees so little of her, and she has to
• "Place a chair for the child, James,”
said the hostess.
x will leave you to imagine what
happened. It ended with a triumphant
exhibition of childish rebellion when
Gritty snatched up the crystal dessert
plate, ice cream and all, and turned it
upside down on her head.
It was not fair to Gritty, nor to
the Prims, nor to anybody else in the
picture. The home standard was the
only one that the child knew. It was
impossible for her even to sit still
through a meal served in formal fash
ion, had she known what it all meant.
As it was, all she could do was behave
in character, which she did.
Two-year-old children should not
be asked to go to a stranger’s table
unless the home standards to which
they have been accustomed and
trained prevail there. To place a
child in a strange situation, where he
must behave in a way he never be
haved before, can end in only one way,
the collapse of the child and the great
embarrassment of the parents.
Dining out is hard even on grown
ups, if they tell th<? truth. Picking
out the right spoon and coming out
even at the end is something to worry
about for most of us who have to sit
at strange boards. Each hostess has
her own way of serving dinner and
only the most experienced dyed-in
the-mode diners-out feel truly at ease.
Children ought never to be subjected
to such an ordeal. Time enough when
they have reached the stage where
they know enough to watch their
hostess In times of doubt.
Even at home, if it is at all possible,
relieve the little ones of the strain of
eating with the grown-up people, and
relieve the weary grown-ups of the
strain of watching them. Wait until
they have some self-control, some un
derstanding of what is expected of
them, before asking so much of them.
I For Mother! . v
For Father! \
For Child! 0
For a better understanding v
and harmonious relation- </
ship, send a stamped, self- <0
addressed envelope for your Q
copy of Angelo Patri’s \
"Family Check-Up” —an v
up-to-date I. Q. for par- \
ents and children. Send y
requests to the Woman’s 0
Page of the Hie Evening Q
Star. A
Dorothy Dix Says—
Every Girl Should Learn
How to Be a Good Cook.
A YOUNG girl asks me to tell
her why she should learn how
to cook. There are about a
million good reasons why every
woman should acquire skill In juggling
the pots and pans, one of which Is,
as Owen Meredith said long ago, be
cause we can live without music,
poetry and art, but civilized man can't
live without oooks.
That makes a knowledge of how to
prepare food the very foundation stone
of a girl’s education. Every woman
finds that no matter what her position
in life, no matter what business or
profession she goes into, no matter
how many other things she knows,
the one thing that she always needs
to know is how to cook.
■A girl should learn how to cook
because, If she does, she has a trade
by which she can always support her
self if need be. In times of depression
the market may be glutted with act
resses and writers and interior deco
rators and stenographers and office
women, but there are never enough
first-class cooks to go around. More
over, even in its lower brackets the
salary of the cook compares favorably
with other female laborers, consider
ing that she gets her lodging free
and eats as well as her employer
does, while the salary of a woman
chef entitles her to groan over the
income tax.
* * * *
pURTHERMORE, a good cook is
the autocrat of whatever house
hold she deigns to bless with her
presence. A woman may not hesi
tate to tell her husband of his faults
and where he gets off. A man may be
grumpy and grouchy with the girls
in his office and always threatening
to fire them. But they walk humbly
before the goddess of the kitchen, who
has but to wave her magic wand and
the feasts of Luculls appear upon their
table. She is the one woman in the
world who is never afraid of losing
her job.
In domestic life a knowledge of how
to cook is the answer to the problem
of how to retain a husband's affec
tions. In time beauty fades, passion
dulls of satiety, wise-cracking gets to
be a bore, even love wears down into
a habit, but a man’s appetite never
fails. It is the one thing to which
a woman can always appeal and thus
it is that you seldom hear of a man
wandering away from his own fireside
after having partaken of a dinner of
the things he likes, prepared Just
the way Ijc likes them.
Nor do you hear once in a blue moon
of a husband getting tired and lc«ing
his taste for a wife who is a superla
tive cook. The way to domesticate
men. as other wild animals, is by feed
ing them. Any husband will continue
to eat out of his wife's hand as long
as she keeps good food in it.
But the paramount reason why
every girl should learn how to cook
is because the health and efficiency
and prosperity of her family is going
to depend upon how she feeds it. How
the children turn out and whether or
not the husband is a success is just
as much the result of mother's cook
ing as any natural talents they may
* * * *
MANY a child is rated stupid at
school because he is filled up on
soggy cereals. Many a boy takes to
drink because he is undernourished
from lack of good, wholesome, well
cooked food and feels the need of a
stimulant. Many a man loses out in
life because his wife's bad cooking has
turned him into such a dyspeptic that
he can't get along with anybody and
made him so pessimistic that he Is
afraid to go into any new venture.
These, my dear little girl, are some
of the reasons why every girl should
learn to cook. DOROTHY DIX.
(Copyright, 1938.)
Lovely Afternoon Frock
This Model in Flowered Print
Ideal for Teas and Luncheons.
i ("I \ RETTY as a picture” will be
I—/ the compliment that you
I will often hear when you
A wear this very feminine
afternoon frock. The high pointed
waistline gives unusual accent to the
smooth midriff and the saddle shoul
der above short, full sleeves adds a
wide-shouldered look that makes the
waistline seem even smaller. You will
enjoy this dress for afternoon bridge
parties, teas and luncheons. Make it
up in a pretty rayon or silk crepe print
or in one of the sheer crepes that are
always popular at this season. The
neckline ties in a big bow under the
chin—a note that is very youthful and
very springlike.
For other afternoon frocks of this
more feminine type, consult your Bar
bara Bell pattern book of designs.
More than 100 in 32 pages. Every pat
tern includes a complete and detailed
sew chart, together with diagrams.
Barbara Bell pattern No. 1441-B is
designed for sizes 12,14,16,18 and 20.
Corresponding bust measurements, 30,
32, 34, 36 and 38. Size 14 (32) re
quires V/a yards of 35 or 39 inch ma
terial. For two-tone belt as pictured
it requires a strip (contrasting) cut
bias 45 Inches long by 4>/2 inches wide.
(Copmsbt, IMS.)
Plan Winter
Vacation If
Best Way to Relax
Completely Is
Take a Trip.
'J'HIS is apropos the subject of
relaxation, which we covered
yesterday. By the way, I should
have mentioned that I have quite a
complete bulletin on the subject, in
cluding special exercises for relaxa
tion. If you wish this bulletin, merely
write for it, inclosing self-addressed,
stamped (3-cent) envelope.
The best way to relax completely,
mentally and physically Is, of course,
to take a vacation—a complete
change of scene, of routine does one
a wealth of good. Winter vacations
are becoming more and more popular.
The flve-day week is not as unusual
as it used to be and particularly dur
ing the summer department stores
and business organizations close for
the week end. As a result, many
young men and women feel that they
can get on without any summer va
cation. or with one week and leave
the other week for the winter. This
is a very good idea, especially since
right after the holidays there's a
sudden let-down feeling, a reaction
from the buoyed-up spirit. To snap
out of the doldrums, the best thing
one can do is run away.
It is customary for those who take
winter vacations to migrate—North or
South. Winter or Southern resorts
both have their attractions. Northern
climes have been calling more and
more in the past few years. Snow,
with its skiing and skating, is gaining
in popularity. Winter sports are
most invigorating, you come back
feeling fresh and robust and ready
for real work. A cruise to Southern
waters is very restful, and lazy lolling
on the sand, swimming and sunning
and summer sports instill a content
ment all their own.
Not the least thrill is the assembling
of proper costumes for North or South.
And the wise woman considers a
beauty kit as important to her en
joyment as her clothes and acces
sories. There are special traveling
kits fully equipped for the girl who
is to swim and others for those who
ski. But, whether you buy an elabo
rate carry-all or assemble your own,
the one preparation above all others
is a skin protective—an anti-drying
preparation for the South; an anti
chapping preparation for North. These
may be double-duty items, acting as
make-up base as well. An eye lotion
is another "must." And don’t forget
your goggles! They’re Just as impor
tant for snow as for sand!
(Copyright, 1938.)
The New Berets.
Berets are out In new guises. The
smartest rise from the forehead to
frame the face and are sometimes
made of several shades of draped and
pleated crepe. New Peruvian berets
designed of straw sit on the back of
the head and give the effect of a halo.
Many are finished with a headband
made of a bright scarf.
Baking Cake.
In baking fruit or wedding eakes
which require long, slow cooking, place
a shallow pan filled with water in the
oven. The water will help keep the
cakes moist and give a glaze to their
surfaces. Each cake should be allowed
to cool In the pan in which it was
“Knowing Your Oranges”
Important for Making
Economical Purchases
Avoid Fruit That Is Puffy,
Or That Is Discolored
And Soft at Stem End.
IT IS hard to belie va that it was not so long ago that orange* and grapefruit
were considered luxuries by many people the world over! Centuries past,
when trade route* to and from the Orient were first developed, the people
of the west learned of the deliciousness of citrus fruits—and were later to
discover their health-giving properties. Now, scientists insist on the inclusion
of citrus fruits In the dally diet of the vast majority—without them, w# are
told, our systems would suffer and<-—
our physical welfare be on the de
cline. So, once
again, we see the . ,
luxury of one era
becoming the
necessity of
According to
s t a 11 s tics, the
citrus season of
1937-38 gives
every Indication
of being a good
one — In fact,
right now It
looks as If the
orange crop may
be the largest
one on record.
Betsy Caswell
Of course, much depends on the
whims and fancies of the weather,
for citrus fruits can't stand very
much bad luck.
In shopping for oranges, grapefruit
and so on there are a few points that
have been brought out by the Bureau
of Home Economics of the United
States Department of Agriculture
that should help the buyer to pur
chase intelligently. The bureau says:
"It isn’t necessary for the shopper
to have a wide knowledge of varieties
to select a good orange. Of course
it's easy to distinguish a navel orange '
because of its deep orange-colored
skin and the indentation at one end.
"Valencias have thin skins and
are lighter in color. Often they are
greenish when fully ripe. They are
more oblong in shape than the navel.
"A good orange of any variety is
firm with no soft spots. It’s skin is
smooth, and the fruit seems heavy
for its size. Avoid fruit that is puffy
or bulged at the ends. Decay often
appears as a soft, discolored spot on
the peel at the stem end of the orange.
Unless you watch for this especially
it is easily overlooked.
"Some oranges are designated as
russet because of a rust-colored dis
coloration on the surface. These
oranges are edible and some persons
even prefer them to others. But such
fruit tends to wilt faster than Is
"gELECTING grapefruit is a similar
procedure. Good ones are well
shaped, thin-skinned, not soft, wilted,
or flabby. They are heavy for their
size with no puffy or coarse skin.
Decay often appears in the stem end
just as it does in oranges. Russettlng
in grapefruit is a reddish-brown or
reddish-yellow discoloration.
"Citrus fruits are topnotchers on
many counts. But most important of
all is their vitamin C—a none too
common food element. Both children
and adults need a supply of vitamin C
every day, because the body cannot
store it.
"A lack of vitamin C will cause
loss of appetite with loss of weight i
and fatigue. A greater lack will result
in a condition known as scurvy. To
prevent such deficiency diseases nutri
tionists advise both children and
adults to get plenty of this element
each day. For very young children
they make sure of this by advising
orange juice or tomato juice every day.
"Besides being an excellent source
of vitamin C, oranges contain vitamin
B and a little A. Grapefruit are also
an excellent source for C. and contain i
vitamin B. The flavor of both these j
fruits depends in some measure upon |
the relative amounts of citric acid and j
sugar they contain.
"In recent years scientists have been ;
able to study more satisfactorily the
vitamin C content of foods. For now
available to them is a chemical tech
nique for assaying vitamin C that |
gives results much quicker than the
older methods of waiting for the reac
tions of experimental animal*.
* * * *
year, using this technique,
the Bureau of Home Economics
made tests of many citrus fruits. Not
only did they test oranges, lemons,
limes and grapefruit, but they also
experimented with some of the newer
citrus hybrids being developed—the
tangelos, tangors, orangequats and
‘‘In oranges, for example, experi
ments have shown that there are sig
nificant differences in the vitamin C
content of oranges of different varie
ties. But there are also differences In
samples of the same varieties. Often
times the.se simple differences are
greater than known differences due
to variety.
"So the homemaker who goes to
market needn't wonder which variety
to get as far as vitamin C is concerned.
For it may be that whichever she buvg
there will be greater differences
among the single oranges in a dozen
than in any two varieties she might
Vitamin C is easily destroyed by
heat. But there are scores of ways to
use grapefruit and oranges to get the
most of their vitamin C. Half a
grapefruit or a glass of orange juice
has become a classic breakfast first
course. Both oranges and grapefruit
appear in fruit cups, salads and gela
tin dishes.
"There are other uses for these
fruits where flavor is most important.
Orange juice is used as the liquid in
drop cookies or added to cake icing
for flavor. Both grapefruit and oranges
are excellent for marmalades.
"The flavor and color of the outer
rind, the pectin in the white part of
the rind and the acid in the juice
all contribute to make the perfect
marmalade. Naturally, the best time
of year to make a supply of marma
lade from oranges and other citrus
fruits is at the time when they are
most abundant and have their best
My Neighbor Says:
When broiling steak, slip sev
eral slices of bread under the
rack on bottom of broiler pan.
The Juices drip down, and when
meat is done the bread is toasted
a delicate brown and forms a de
licious accompaniment.
To bleach handkerchiefs, tow
els. etc., soak them overnight In
a solution of !i teaspoon of cream
of tartar to each quart of water.
In repairing wallpaper do not
put on a square patch, but cut
the edges as nearly as possible af
ter the pattern. If a plain paper,
it Is a good plan to tear it. as
this makes a thinner edge, which
will stick better.
(Copyright, 1P.3S.)
Specially designed for
the nose and upper
throat, where 3 out
of 4 colds start. Use
it at the first sneeze.
Back in her closet goes
Connie’s perspiring dress
Perspiration odor dirigs to dresses—
Dresses, like undies, absorb perspira- don’t offend
tion—offend other people before you
realize it. Don’t take chances—Lux ^
your dresses often. Lux removes odor
completely, saves color and fit. Any ■ M f A '#■
dress safe in water alone is safe in Lux. K ■ J mm
Lux dresses often • •. BWl

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