Number of Unusual Flowering Shrubs Can Be Grown Easily in This Area
Interesting Varieties Are
No Harder to Care For
Than Our Old Friends
Hungarian Lilac Especially
Recommended dor Bloom *•
Later in the Season
By W. H. YOL’NGMAN.
Would you like to try some new shrubs? Things that are different
but at the same time attractive and worth-while? There are many kinds
of shrubs suited to this area which we seldom see. Not that the spireas
and mock oranges that we do grow are not worth having, but that the fol
lowing are also good and are no harder to grow. Sorpe of them are im
provements over our old friends.
Let us consider the spireas. The Garland spirea (Arguta) is similar to
but better than thunbergi. Both flower very early in the spring and
both have small leaves and slender, arching, twiggy branches, but the
Arguta has larger flowers. The Korean spirea (trichocarpa) is very much
like our old friend the Vanhoutte spirea, but with better flowers later in
the season to prolong the floral display. Both the Garlandflower and the
Korean spireas grow from 4 to 5 feet in height, and do best in a sunny
An interesting shrub that is seldom seen in local yards is the spread
ing cotoneaster (C. divaricata). This is hardy, red-fruited, attains 6 feet
In height, and can be used either in the border or as a specimen plant.
The name spreading cotoneaster is a bit of a misnomer, since the habit of
growth is upright, with the spreading branches giving a most effective
display of the freely borne, brightly-colored berries. The cotoneasters
like sun and a light, well-drained,*
The Mountain Andromeda (Pieris
floribunda) and the Japanese An
dromeda (P. japonica) are two excel
lent shrubs for the semi-shaded and
6hady yards. They are evergreen, of
medium height (3-5 feet) and thrive
in our naturally acid soil. The flow
ers are borne in showy panicles at
the tips of the branches, the buds
being conspicuous from late fall to
early spring, when they open into
tiny creamy white bells. The Moun
tain Andromeda is a native of near
by West Virginia and has upright
flower panicles, whereas the Japa
nese have drooping panicles. Both
do their best in the shade in a soil
Swell enriched with leaf mold.
For the lover of dogwoods the
Cornelian cherry (Cornus mas)
and the Kousa dogwood <C. Kousa)
are suggested. The Cornelian cherry
has clusters of tiny yellow flowers
early in the season, while the Kousa'
has white flowers late in the season.
Both grow about 15 feet high and
are adapted to the same treatment
as the common dogwood.
A shrubby perennial, the blue
epirea (Caryopteris incana) is well
adapted to the background of a
perenial border. Its showy clusters
of bright blue flowers appear in
September on bushes ranging from
2 to 6 feet in height. It thrives
best in a sw'eet soil in full sun.
Apply Plant Food
Early to Lawn to
If your lawn is infested with dan
delions, crabgrass or other types of
lawn weeds, then by all means see
that the spring application of plant
food is made early. Tests have shown
that weeds are far less numerous in
lawn areas that have been fed while
the grass is still dormant.
Here is what one experienced
gardener has to say about the early
feeding of lawns:
“I am satisfied that very early
feeding pays, and hereafter I will
feed my lawn while it is positively in
the dormant stage—about the mid
dle of February.
“Not only does the grass on early
fed areas in my lawn make a good
early growth, with a nice green
color, but the early start that it gets
certainly eliminates the early growth
of any weeds that might come in
If you will give one section of
your lawn early March feeding you
will find that it will show a notice
ably earlier greening and top growth
than is the case with sections that
are fed in late spring. Grass that
has been given an early feeding will
start growth much sooner than un
fed or late-fed areas, and the lawn
will stand up better all through the
Apply four pounds of complete,
balanced plant food per 100 square
feet of lawn area. You can make
application by hand, just as you
would sow grass seed; with a kitchen
collander, or with a plant food
spreader. When grass is fed in the
dormant stage, it is not necessary
to water the plant food in. This
eaves time and labor.
The Fivestamen Tamarix (tama
rix pentandra) Is also a late-sum
mer flowering shrub, but is so tall
(15 feet) that It belongs in the
background of a shrub border. It,
too, likes sun, which helps to show
up the airy heads of pink flowers
above the fine, graceful foliage. A
sandy soil Is more to the liking
of the Tamarix than heavy clays.
This list would be incomplete
without a lilac species, so here are
two: The Rowen lilac (Syringa
chinensis) and the Hungarian li
lac (S. josikaea). The former is an
early-flowering sort with reddish
purple, dark red or white flowers
that resemble the Persian lilac.
However, it is a freer bloomer and
produces its floral display at an
early age. The Hungarian lilac has
a later flowering season and its deep
lilac flowers are in dense panicles.
Both are fine additions to the
yard. Give them full sun in a sweet
soil. Plant in the spring.
The bush arbutus (Abelia grandi
flora) is a medium tall (3-6 feet)
evergreen shrub with a very long
season of bloom—from July until
frost.* It goes well with evergreens
or with deciduous flowering shrubs
in sun or light shade.
The goldflower (Hypericum mo
serianum) is excellent for the semi
shady yard, where its dwarf (1V4
feet) bushes display their masses
of bright yellow flowers in August
and September. There are many
yards in this vicinity that could
use this hardy little shrub to give
late summer color. It does best in
sandy soils that are well enriched
The ural false-spirea (Sorbaria
sorbifolia) is another low-growmg
(3-6 feet) shrub that is well adapted
to the semi-shady yard. Its white
flowers, resembling the spirea, are
produced from June until August.
It would be hardly fitting to omit
roses from this llst.and so I suggest
Rosa Zanthina, a 9-foot hardy
shrub that produces quantities of
bright yellow flowers in May. The
Rugosa “New Century,” a product
of the efforts of the late Dr. Van
Fleet, is a lower grower (4-5 feet)
that is most resistant to disease and
insect troubles and has a very long
season of bloom. The flowers are
flesh-pink with light red centers
and creamy edges.
Then, if you want to really try
something that is different, there is
the Franklinia (Gordonia alath
amaha), a shrub of low-growing
tree that reaches 30 feet. The
blooming season of this very un
common tree is in late July or Au
gust and the flowers are very much
like those of the sweet-bay mag
nolia, of which it reminds me.
The digging or an ample-sized
hole, the working into the subsoil
where it may be reached by the
roots of humus and if available
very well-rotted manure, the set
ting at the same level as it grew
in the nursery row, the proper
bracing of tall-growing shrubs and
trees as a protection against March
winds, and Anally care to keep a
generous supply of moisture avail
able to the roots until they can
obtain it for themselves—these are
the main considerations whether
planting in spring or fall.
Guide Your Planting by
Frost Record Data
EBEKM MR I
MAC I ID APQl
Bam i 10 mam
MAM TO JOMCt
When we notice the sun turning
north and the days getting longer,
this Is the first sign of spring, and
time to prepare for seeding opera
tions and general outdoor activities.
The weather is a bugaboo to
many a backyard gardener who
bases his knowledge of Jack Frost’s
activities on hearsay. A better way
Is to consult the local weather man,
or a reliable weather map. Then,
he can plant with assurance, or
at least with the chances in his fa
vor of a sure harvest.
A reasonably safe time to plant
Is when there is only a 10 per cent
chance of a killing frost. This date
can be determined for your locality
- by consulting the Department of
Agriculture map above, and means
that only In one year of 10 will
there occur a freeze likely to dam
age your tender garden subjects.
The more venturesome person,
whose taste for early greens and
tender roots make him gamble on a
possible wintry blast to get them,
will choose the average date of the
last killing frost. This is about two
weeks earlier, and the chances of
losing a crop or two of tender vege
tables Is more than doubled. The
latest recorded killing frost Is atjout
a month later than the average, al
though this is not true everywhere.
In New York, for instance, it is only
20 days, while in St. Louis it is
38 and in Cleveland and Chicago
it is 36. A month, however, is good'
enough for practical purposes. It
should be borne in mind that many
vegetables will stand an ordinary
light frost, so long as it is not a
Gardeners can well spend freez
ing indoor days in gathering weath
er data, and looking over the new
seed lists. When you know the
actual date to begin, it is a waste
of time to delay a day, and a still
greater waste to start earlier. Let
the frosts records give you a reli
able basis for figuring when to plant.
Of course, Washington residents
are confronted with a somewhat
complicated problem, inasmuch as
our planting time varies according
to the locality in which we live.
For instance, those who reside out
of town may find it unwise to start
planting before May 1, while in
town dwellers can get to work on
their gardens as early as April 1.
However, a general study of past
frost records will be of assistance
in determining the beet planting
time for the various localities*
For Year Around Beauty and Mass Effect...
Here is a good example of planting according to expert advice. Flowering shrubs have been combined
with conifers, so that beauty and mass effect are possible all the year around. There are many choice
shrubs, suitable for sun or shade, that may be grown easily in this area. Try planting them among the
evergreens—we seem to lean too strongly to the use of evergreens alone in our decorative planting.
March—Mobile, Ala.: Mobile
Azalea Trail and Bellingrath
Gardens. Charleston, S. C.:
Magnolia Gardens and Middleton
February 28-March 6—Houston,
Tex.: Forty-first National Flower
and Garden Show, Sam Houston
March 1-2—Sarasota, Fla.:
Garden Club 1940 Show, Munici
March 1-3—Palm Beach, Fla.:
Palm Beach Flower Show, Socjety
of Fine Arts Building and
March 1-3—Key West, Fla.:
The Key West Garden Club and
Tree Guild Flower Show.
March 2-April 7—Laurel, Miss.:
1940 Chemurgic trek.
March 3-10—New Orleans, La.:
March 4—Miami, Fla.: Garden
club* Greater Miami tours.
March 4-9—Toronto. Canada:
Spring Flower Show, Eaton Au
March 7-8—Norfolk, Va.: Sixth
Annual Camellia Show, the Gar
den Club of Norfolk, Atlantic
March 7-10—Worcester, Mass.:
Annual Spring Flower Show,
Worcester County Horticultural
Society, Horticultural Hall.
March 9-16—Milwaukee, Wis.:
Annual Spring Flower and Home
Show, Milwaukee Auditorium.
March 9-17—St. Louis, Mo.:
Greater St. Louis Flower Show,
March 11-16—Boston, Mass.:
Sixty-ninth Annual New England
Spring Flower Show of the Mas
sachusetts Horticultural Society,
March 11-16—New York, N. Y.:
Twenty-seventh Annual Interna
tional Flower Show of the Horti
cultural Society of New York and
the New York Florists’ Club,
Grand Central Palace.
March 11-16—P h i 1 a d e Iphia,
Pa.: The Philadelphia Flower
Show, Commercial Museum.
March 13-14—Fort Lauderdale,
Fla.: Flower Show of the Fort
Lauderdale Garden Club.
—March 15—Santa 'Barbara,
Calif.: Garden Tour through
Santa Barbara and Montecito,
every Friday until May 3.
March 16-31—Woodville, Miss.:
Woodville Garden Club Pilgrim
March 18—Palm Beach, Fla.:
Tours of the Garden Club of
March 17-30—Laurel, Miss.:
Beginning second annual pil
grimage, Pilgrimage Garden Club.
March 19-April 1—New York:
Garden Pilgrimage of the South,
sponsored by Horticultural So
ciety of New York.
March 20-21—Rose Institute,
sponsored by Potomac Rose So
ciety and George Washington
University, Washington, D. C.
March 23-31—Detroit, Mich.:
Michigan Flower and Garden Ex
hibit, Convention Hall.
March 23-Aprii 7—Chicago,
111.: Easter and Spring Show of
the Chicago Park District in Gar
field and Lincoln Park Conserva
March 24-Aprtl 7—Natchez,
Miss.: Ninth annual pilgrimage
of the Natchez Garden Club.
March 26-27—Tidewater Nar
cissus Show, Suffolk, Va.
March 26-28—H a 111 e s burg,
Miss.: Pilgrimage, Pilgrimage
March 2»-April 1-Gulf Coast,
Miss.: Mississippi Gulf Coast
Pageant, sponsored by the garden
clubs of the coastal region.
March 30-April 7—Chicago,
HI.: Chicago Flower Show, Navy
April 12-13—Ninth Annual
Narcissus Show, Garden Club of
Virginia, Armory, Alexandria,
April 21-24—Holly Springs,
Miss.: Pilgrimage Garden Club,,
April 22-^7—Garden Week In
April 21-28—Vicksburg, Jack
son, Meridian, Miss.: Pilgrimage
April 25-26—Aberdeen, Miss.:
Pilgrimage Garden Club.
April 27-28—Greenwood, Miss.:
Pilgrimage Garden Club.
April 26-Map 6-Baltimore,
By THE MASTER GARDENER.
Just as soon as the foliage of
tulips, hyacinths and the other
spring flowering bulbs appears in
early spring, they will benefit
greatly if you apply a feeding of
complete, balanced plant food.
Colors will be more intense, stems
will be stronger and taller, and
flowers will be more lasting.
How to feed bulbs planted in
Apply one-half to three.-fourths
pint of complete, balanced plant
food to 20 feet of row, starting ap
plication from 2 to 3 inches away
from the plant, and applying one
half of the quantity on either side
of the row. After making applica
tion work the plant food lightly into
For bulbs planted in clumps or
individual holes, or in beds:
Complete, balanced plant food
should be scattered around the
plants or among the plants at the
rate of one heaping teaspoonful to
a square foot of space, keeping the
plant food at least two inches away
from the stalk of the plant.
Where bulbs are planted rather
closely in a bed so it would be dif
ficult to feed them after the plants
appear above the ground, we would
suggest feeding during late winter
say two to three weeks before the
plants are likely to appear. For
that feeding, complete, balanced
plant food should be broadcast over
the top of the ground at the rate
of about 2 pounds per 100 square
feet. This would be equivalent to
a little more than a level table
spoonful to each square foot of
space. Work the plant food lightly
into the soil.
If desired, another light feeding
of plant food can be made just as
the bud appears. This can be done
conveniently where plants are in
rows or in clumps, but is not sug
gested where plants are grown very
close together in a bed.
Feeding where crocus, daffodils or
similar bulbs are naturalized In the
Where crocus or any other type
of spring flowering bulbs are natu
ralized and grown promiscuously in
the lawn, about the only way they
can be fed is to feed the lawn in
the way we would ordinarily rec
ommend—that is, 4 pounds of com
plete, balanced plant food per 100
square feet. Best results can be
obtained by making the application
very early in the spring, say in late
February or early March. At that
time it is not necessary to wet the
plant food down. Application of
plant feed for such areas, of course,
can be made almost any time of the
year, but after the grass starts to
grow or after the tender growth of
the bulbs appears, It Is necessary
to wet the area down thoroughly in
order to wash the plant food off
the foliage and get It started down
to the roots.
Here’s wishing you a glorious
show of bloom from your spring
Aversion to Untidiness
When we meet untidy people, we
are likely to feel a sense of aversion
that often binds us to the qualities
we might otherwise admire. We may
grow to like them notwithstanding
but there is always a hope that their
standards will Improve.
Md.: Seventh annual Maryland
House and Garden Pilgrimage.
April 30—Carrollton, Miss.: Pil
grimage Garden Club.
May—Mandarin, Fla.: Tour of
May 3-4—Leland, Miss.: Pil
grimage Garden Club.
May 4-5—Greenville, Miss.:
Pilgrimage Garden Club.
May 7-10—Annual meeting,
Garden Club of America. .Balti
May 14-15—Annual meeting,
Garden Club of Virginia. Peters
May 21-23—Roanoke, Va.: An
nual meeting, Virginia Federa
tion of Garden Clubs, Roanoke
Hotel. . i
The Garden Notebook - - -
Prepare Planting Spaces for
New Roses During March
Did you take advantage of the
warm days to sow seeds of the hardy
annuals? Larkspur, bachelor’s
buttons, California poppies and a
number of other hardy annuals
should be sown at the first oppor
tunity. They do better when given
an early start. Just scatter the
seeds where they are to grow and
lightly rake them in.
As the weather permits it is well
to prepare the planting spaces for
the new shrubs and roses to be
planted this month. March 20 is
considered as the proper planting
time for this area, but, of course,
it is earlier downtown and later in
the outlying areas. The earlier the
better is a good rule; however, do
not attempt to work the soil when
it is so wet that it will puddle. In
case of doubt take a small handful
and squeeze it into a ball. If the
ball shatters when struck gently the
soil is in condition to be worked.
Where the planting holes are pre
pared a week or more in advance
the planting can be quickly finished
once the shrubs arrive, and there is
also less danger of undue settling.
It is remarkable the difference in
results obtained when the early
flowering bulbs are planted in a
protected place as compared with
those planted where the strong
spring winds strike them. Some
of the snowdrops are blooming on
stems an inch or two long, and they
should be 4 inches or more. Hya
cinth blooms have been known to
open underground in exposed posi
tions. The protection of shrubs,
walls, or even a row of rocks will
provide the needed shelter.
Now that spring house-cleaning
time is here it might be well to
give the house plants a bit of at
tention. Dust has collected on their
leaves and should be removed by
syringing with water or by washing
with a damp cloth. That is, all of
them except the African violet, and
the others are best given their baths
in the morning.
Now is the time to give the tulip
and daffodil beds an application of
plant food to stimulate long stems
and large flowers. The fertilizer,
which is applied at the rate of 3
or 4 pounds per 100 square feet,
should be put on the beds before
the new leaves appear. If the
leaves break through the ground
before the fertilizer is applied care
will be necessary to keep from burn
ing the foliage.
Sprays of forsythia, flowering
quince, Thunberg’s spirea and
Pussy Willow may be cut and taken
indoors for early btoom. Put the
cut sprays in a deep pail of water
and hold in the basement, taking
them into the warmth upstairs as
they are needed.
At the demonstration pruning
given by the Takoma Horticultural
Club the instructors cautioned about
pruning roses before the middle of
March. In the more protected sec
tions of the city pruning can be
done at any time now, although in
the more outlying sections it is bet
ter to wait until after the middle
A good beauty treatment for the
lawn may be given in the form of
a top-dressing. This may be pre
pared by using rich top soil, sand,
cottonseed meal, thoroughly rotted
and pulverized manure and com
mercial fertilizer. Hie quantities
of each to be used win depend upon
the size and condition of the lawn.
Ordinarily a quarter-inch layer
would be a fairly generous appli
cation, which might well be in
creased to half an inch on a very
thin impoverished soil. The maxi
mum amount of fertilizer per 100
square feet is ordinarily 4 pounds,
but Dr. Pieters recommended 10
pounds in this page last fall.
If the stand of grass is thin scat
ter grass seed before applying the
top-dressing. Roll the lawn lightly
to give a smooth, even surface.
To those who imagine that the
idea of air-conditioning is new, it
will be a surprise to learn that an
effective system was in use 130 years
ago. The Black Emperor, Henri
Christophe, cooled the rooms of his
palace at Sans Souci back in 1808.
The palace was sumptuous, with
banquet hall, gilt mirrors^ and a
richly carved mahogany throne. The
palace was built over a rushing
mountain stream to refresh the re
Flower Arrangement—No. 8
By MARGARET NOWELL
The flower market has been very meager these last few weeks but
now every comer stand Is bright with spring. Select your daffodils and
tulips when they are crisp like lettuce if you would have them last
Freshly cut tulips will last a whole week in a cool i/ace in your living
room. If they are limp and drooping as to leaf you would do well to make
some other selection or ask for fresh ones. Daffodils are usually rather
stiff and mould be arranged In that manner—Just as they might grow—
or used with Iris or other more graceful flower for filler.
15-Inch Poinsettia Bloom
Raised Successfully by
Plants Produced From Slips
Through the Summer Give
Blossoms for Christmas
By AGNES TRIMBLE.
Most of us associate the poinsettia with Christmas, and with obtaining
them from our favorite florist shop. A few of us keep our plants and ex
periment with them after Christmas in the hope of having more blooms
later, but seldom is this thrill realized.
There is one woman, however, right here in Washington, who can
proudly boast of realizing this goal. She not only has perfect blossoms on
her old plants, but gorgeous blooms on plants she has raised from slips., i
Imagine having a poinsettia bloom measuring 15 inches across on a
plant you raised! That is Just what this lady accomplished. Instead of
having poinsettias only at Christmas, like most of us, she has them bloom
ing off and on throughput the wring. In fact, one of her slip plants is
flowering now, but being its first blooms they are small—its next blossoms
will be larger.
The poinsettia, as you know, is a tropical plant, and originated in
Central America and Mexico. It was first introduced to us in cultivation
by Dr. Joel R. Poinsett of Charleston, S. C., who was at one time a mem
ber of the South Carolina Legislature, and later a member of Congress,
and from 1825 to 1829 he served as Minister to Mexico. No doubt, it was
during his diplomatic service in Mexico that he became interested' in fnd
experimented with the poinsettia in order to enjoy their gorgeousness
in his South Carolina garden. <■-——
The doctor, perhaps, would not
care as much for the pink and white
blossoms as for the vivid red which
he brought to this country, but
surply, he would be greatly inter
ested in recent experiments which
have produced these newer flowers.
My friend—sorry, she will not al
low her name to be used—has a
method of caring for poinsettia
plants which she follows strictly
and with great success. She says
the poinsettia plant requires a day
temperature of at least 70 degrees,
while at night the temperature must
never be allowed to go below 63 de
This temperamental plant will not
thrive on sudden temperature
changes nor exposure to drafts—so,
be very careful of these points. She
never leaves her plants standing in
a saucer of water, as the glamorous
flower will not endure water-soaked
feet, but does insist upon being
watered often, at least twice a day
while in bloom. After the plant
drops its leaves and stops blooming
it is cut back, allowing about 3 buds
to each stem, then down to the
basement it goes and is laid on its
side, container and all, in a cool
place. During this resting or sleep
ing period she waters it just enough
to prevent stems from becoming
shriveled. When new growth starts
1 the stems will branch out from
where they were cut back—the more
branches, she said, the more flowers
there will be. After this so-called
rest period, of from six weeks to two
months, when they begin to show
some life or leaf out, the top soil is
removed from around the plant and
fresh soil added. Plants are never
taken out of their original pots un
less they outgrow them.
The cuttings which were removed
from the old plants are used as
slips to start new plants by sticking
them down in a pot of good gardep
soil and placed in a sunny window
where they are kept well watered.
Bhe says a fair per cent of the slips
will bring forth good substantial
plants which will bloom by the fol
in tne spring when the weather
is warm, or about June, the potted
plants are placed in the garden
where they will be protected by
shrubbery until the fall, when they
are again taken indoors before the
nights become cool, and are placed
by a sunny window to await their
This successful poinsettia grower
takes great pride in her self
cultivated plants for her Christmas
decorations. This past Christmas
she used a 6-foot plant with blooms
ranging from 12 inches to 15 inches
across at the end of the living room
mantel and banked around it many
smaller plants with equally beautiful
blooms—and with red candles here
and there a most colorful and
artistic effect was created.
Root Method Easy
By the Growers
By HARRY W. BALL.
The most interesting part of suc
cessful dahlia gardening for an
amateur is the study of propagation.
An easy, widely used method is root
propagation. This method may be
used any time after February 1.
Flats (shallow wooden boxes) 4 to
6 inches deep and filled with steril
ized sand, peat moss, or a half-and
half mixture of both, constitutes the:
necessary equipment. Place the
roots in this, being sure the crowns
sho^ above the sand, otherwise
when the shoots come they will
form long single roots and spoil
your chances of making more than
one cutting to an eye. Put the flat
near a cellar window.
If the roots are kept moist, not
wet, and with the temperature about
60 degrees F., they will have sprouts
2 or 3 inches tall within a month.
When the sprout has two nodes or
sets of leaves above the heel it is
ready to be removed from the root
and planted in a flat filled with peat
moss. Place the thumb and index
finger, not too tightly, around the
sprout close to the root and bend it
slowly; you will find that the sprout
will break off and appear to have a
node pclnt. This is called a heel
cutting and makes roots easily.
After you have made this cutting
you will find that two or more
sprouts will appear where you have
taken the first cutting. If the first
set of leaves is large the outer half
of each leaf should be cut off to
preserve moisture in the cutting.
Press the moss firmly around the
cutting and keep moist until rooted.
Place the flat in a north window for
a few days or until roots form, then
place in a south window.
When roots are*well established,
transplant into 3-inch pots filled
with good garden soil and plant out
in the garden about June 1.
To Lengthen Stems
Oftentimes potted hyacinths bloom
with very short stems. This can
be remedied by placing a pasteboard
or tin collar around the leaves and
flower stem as it emerges from the
ground. Seeking light, it will push
on up above the collar.
Get an early start by buying your
seeds at Small’s and starting your
plants indoors. You can trans
plant them outdoors later.
Visit Our Seed Dept.
Party to Attend
In New York
The Garden Clubs of Washington
have arranged an all-expense tour
for those Interested In attending
the International Flower Show In
New York City. The party will
leave Washington on Monday,
March 11, by train early In the
morning, permitting a visit to the
show that afternoon. Expenses in
clude a stop overnight in New York
so that Tuesday may be devoted to
the show, sightseeing, or shopping.
The party will leave New York
Tuesday afternoon, reaching Wash-,
ington before midnight.
The Garden Club of Chevy Chase,
Md., will hold its regular meeting
on Wednesday at 3 p.m. at the home
of Mrs. Arthur W. Defenderfer, 7
East Kirke street. Mrs. John Vance
will be co-hostess and Mrs. Lillian
Wright Smith will speak on "Spring
Gardens.” Also at this meeting
plans will be made for the Chevy
Chase Garden Tour, conducted for
the benefit of the Montgomery
County Hospital on May 24.
Dates for the Rose Institute given
by the Potomac Rose Society and
George Washington University have
been announced as March 20 and 21.
Daffodils will feature the pro
gram of the Woodridge Garden Club
Monday evening, March 4, at tjie
Sherwood Presbyterian Church. A
set of 75 kodachrome lantern slide*
featuring the newer daffodil varie
ties will be shown, and Miss Marga
ret Lancaster will discuss the “Use
of Daffodils in the Home Garden
Plantings.” Visitors are welcome.
HERB PLANTS: pot-crown, easily shipped.
PRIED HERBS: for Salads. Omelets, etc.
HERB COOKERY: Booklet of Recipes sent
on receipt of 25 cents.
HERB CATALOGUE: New edition, (tit
published. Sent on receipt of 10 cents. .,
WEATHERED OAK HERB FARM, 1st.
BRADLEY HILLS. BETHESDA. MARYLAND
Distributors of Michigan
Pout Soil Spongo, highest
grade American peat.
626 Iadiiaa Are. N.W. 1
Tint to 617 C St N.W.
Phene NAtt. 9791, 9799. 3
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