By CLEMENTINE PADDLEFORD This Week Food Editor
Here’s Real Yorkshire Pudding!
The American Cowans got a big
surprise when they moved to
England the food’s wonderful!
I came into LONDON to the Dorchester Hotel a late
September afternoon to find this invitation: "Would
you like to come to our home in Surrey on Sunday
for a typical English family dinner?*’ The note was
signed "The Bailey Cowans once of Fairfield,
Connecticut.” I telephoned an eager "yes.” The
Cowans sent a car to "collect me” at nine the next
morning. It was a 40-mile drive to Haslemere village
and two miles beyond to Hazelhurst House.
The day was a broth of fog. But now and then
it thinned, revealing glimpses of the neat hedged
fields. The narrow road from the village to the
House wound like a gray river among giant trees
trailing fog veils. We came horn-tooting into the
Cowans’ parking spot by the front door. Emerging
out of the mist the three pretty daughters on high
spirited horses. Came the Golden Retriever, Gus,
with a paw welcome. The door opened; we met the
senior Cowans, Bailey and Margie.
Once a 13th-century farm
Warm greetings! Into a long living room, a log
fire blazing. But that pleasure was for later. Coats
still on, the Cowans suggested a tramp around their
seven acres. Until 80 years ago Hazelhurst had been
a working farm. The main part of the house goes
back to the 13th century with records to prove it.
When the Victorian addition was put on the place
became a residence with garden and woodland.
Fanning days were done. It was a quick trip, how
ever. Mrs. Cowan was getting the dinner and even
in the farthest end of the
garden we could smell the
roast beef. Was it being
Margie Cowan, raised
in Scotland, met her New
York husband during
World War II and came to
the United States to live
in Connecticut. There
for ten years, where she
learned to cook in the
American way but always
with Scottish and English
accents. Seven years ago
her husband was offered
a job as marketing direc-
Add eggs one at a time
How the World Eats
ENGLISH family DINNHt. Bailey Cowan serves the Yorkshire as Margie and the girls watch with approval
tor of the famous Escoffier company, headquarters
London. Bailey Cowan felt uncertain about this
move. Would the children like it? Today Dick 15,
Sanda 14, Jennifer 12, Sheila 9, wouldn’t live
anywhere else. They love this old house with its
many rooms and a stable for horses.
The fireplace there is as big as one wall, with
settle seats. The room is lined with books and
pictures of family and friends. The casement win
dows look to an open meadow.
Margie cooks by ear. Today the Cowan family
are eating more British than American. But they
have introduced certain American ideas to the
neighbors. In the old bam the Cowans have built a
barbecue for the children to grill hot dogs and
The roast beef was redolently claiming atten
tion. We left the den for the kitchen. I went to see
the Yorkshire Pudding made.
At last to the dining room. The table was set for
ten. The young people helped serve. Main dishes
Turn page for recipes: Yorkshire Pudding. Racon And Egg Pie, Dundee Cake
were arranged on the dining-room buffet. Mr. Cowan
carved the beef—delicately thin then served the
Yorkshire Pudding, seeing that I had a comer piece.
Comers are considered best.
Sanda makes dessert
The girls passed the mashed potatoes, home
grown, along with beef gravy au naturd. The green
beans too were garden grown, just out of the freezer.
There was Sauce Diable with the roast. We inquired
of Mrs. Cowan if she had made this delicacy. "Good
ness no,” she said. "It’s one of those Escoffier
sauces made by the company my husband is with;
but I did make the cider.”
The Peach Melba dessert she claims is so easily
done that 14-year-old Sanda can make it to per
fection. A mound of vanilla ice cream is surrounded
by sliced canned peaches. Then Melba sauce is
poured on lavishly. "We use two jars,” Sanda
said. "That’s because Daddy brings the sauce home
straight from the coatanvad oa aexf papa
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