Evening star. [volume], March 18, 1962, Page H-14, Image 104

About Evening star. [volume] (Washington, D.C.) 1854-1972

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H-14
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THE SUNDAY STAR
W ashington, D. C.
March 18, 1962
SEAMS Mb
TO ME...v*>
BY PATRICIA SCOTT gflH
E__3E_ _ai_ _l
Z 2. 3.
7
Necklines that are too
large or too small are a fair
ly common problem. When
a neckline is changed, it’s
absolutely necessary to make
the same change on the col
lar. if the garment has one.
Before you make such ad
justments, however, cut a
muslin collar from the ori
ginal pattern. Then make
the adjustments described
below and fit the muslin to
your dress. When the fit is
perfect, cut your collar either
from the muslin or from a
new paper pattern made
from the muslin.
Straight Collar (Fig. 1,2,
3): If you have made the
neckline of your pattern
larger, the collar should be
enlarged the same amount.
Fig. 1 shows collar pattern
before any changes have
been made. Before you alter
it, make a muslin collar as
suggested above.
If the neckline of the dress
has been widened at the
back, you must lengthen the
collar between the shoulder
seam markings and the cen
ter back. Add a piece equal
to the amount needed to the
center back edge of the col
lar pattern, as in Fig. 2. Pin
extension and pattern toget
her.
If the neckline of a dress
has been enlarged across the
front, add the necessary
length to the front edge of
the collar as in Fig. 3.
Curved Collar (Fig. 4,5):
If collar is curved and
lies flat, and the dress neck
line has been enlarged at
the back, mark the pattern,
as in Fig. 4, halfway be
tween the center back and
the shoulder seam marks.
Slash the pattern along this
line (Fig. 5). Spread the
pieces apart as far as is nec
essary, then slide a piece of
tissue underneath them and
pin the pattern and the in
sertion together.
If the dress neckline has
been enlarged ig front, slash
the pattern between the
shoulder and the front edge.
Spread the pieces apart the
necessary amount, insert tis
sue and pin together (Fig. 6).
Collar Too Long Around
Outer Edge (Fig. 7 and 8):
After the muslin collar has
been cut, try it on the neck
line. If the collar juts out
at the back, make a fold in
center back of the muslin, or
slash it in three places from
outer edge almost to neck
edge (Fig. 7). Lap slashed
sections, making the outer
edge of the collar smaller
(Fig. 8).
Collar Too Short Around
Outer Edge (Fig. 7 and 9):
If the muslin collar you cut
rides up on your neck, and
you want it to lie flat, add
more curve at the neck and
more length around the outer
edge. First add the length
around the outer edge by
slashing the muslin in three
places, from the outer edge,
almost to the neck edge (Fig.
7). Spread the sections
apart until the collar falls
as you desire. Slide tissue
under these spread sections
and pin together (Fig. 9).
The neck edge automatically
curves more when you spread
the sections.
(Copyright 1962.
Field Enterprises. Inc.
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