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HO ELLEN (MORN'S LETTER The Beauties and Whimsicalities of the Wrap for Warm Weather. nEW YORK, May 6.~The spring wrap is a I way ft beautiful; It doesn't need to be protective to mcire than a limited degree. It Is n foarn and a froth Of rib bons and luce* and ruffles; It glimmers and flushes with sequin* and Jet, and It belongs to the sunshlna and sweet air. Just M do the young leaves and hiossorns, and the big hat* covered with chiffon roses, and the spiders' canopies misnamed parasols. When It Is a long wrap It Is like a veil thst floats about the figure, transparent and misty. Often the under side of It Is of white chiffon and the upper side of black net. fraying Into lace edges ant! broken with Insertions of black Chantllly. When It Is a short wrap It Is a dainty fichu cape, filmy a* a summer cloud, and whimsically suggesting an Impossible rap prochement of laughing loving Marie An toinette and the grave Puritan maiden in simple gray frock and snowy kerchief. Or els#' it Is n capriciously extravagant 1111le bolero, a garment fit for Mab, queen Of the fairies, with Its collars and revers and even linings of costly Mallnex. Alen con or Angletsrrc lace and Its fiostlngs of embroidery and sequins. To be sure there are heavier wraps - driving coats of putty-colored cloth, long enough to reach the knees and elaborately Stitched to stlmulat* doubk garments, the Vandvked upper part falling over rows of horlEontal stitching and the col lars and ruffs maintaining by their decor ations the same pious fraud. And there are race coats stitched snd embroidered until It would seem that "seven maids with seven nsedles stitch ing set en > ears'' could not accomplish their Intricacies of detail One such < »«t In pale mastic cloth belongs to the trous seau of Miss Kdlth Morton, whose mar riage took place Inst week It reaches nearly to the feet and Is partly fitted at the bark, the sides being laid in flat plaits, which seem to fall from under a short bolero. 'Hound the neck is a white cloth ape bra hied with arabesques in Hi t•• 11 ■ color This ii*e* at the throat ,nto a high collar and Is prolonged In front Into a panel In the form of a stole, which continue* to the bottom of the garment snd then encircles It Put despite this and other etnmplos, the latest long coat Is of nothing thicker than taffeta, and 1* remarkably fuli by reason of an infinity of tuck* and yet commendably lisht because unltned and most cleverly manipulated It I* semi fitting rather than of sack shape, and If of bin* k It has lmtnen*e revers snd collar of white silk ir. rusted perhaps with a ctvarsc tinted lace. «hi! r tw tt the st.le may fall a scarf of deep yellow applique. For the matron a three-quart* r * coat of more d'Snlt \ l» > f I i.t * res'; le sole st It * he.l (terpen Ih uLarl) In fine tuck*. an 1 having It* sktrts ov lui.i with a deep application of coarsely pattereoed } : a <-k 1■ ufte\t 11 lace The >.it Is edged by the InexltaMe fT -n ftil! ruched with * ; i«e and Its enorm u*l> high, flowerllke collar ». to be held In place by a N*oad black velvet rlMvjn which Is knotted baclt anl front, leaving long. 1 pe 1 ends In contrast with these garments are horde* of little tsffct* Coatees an l boler)>« of at it lush smarl s«ve T »t> th-e resting for inch « t, success -r. « ' vN.rate tuck ing* siramdnss and dartn* outline of revers snd high collar One new bolero, though Ma> is utv>n us. is » f hi* g velvet, nlth facings >f w te satin ? .t W a e and row® f Mack velvet ri Another *hort coat, which n » » n of ahlte or Mack satin. i* lined with soft Marie Antoinette silk and rcvers, collar snd cuff# overUid with lace or heavily stitched. K mil* Ma k silk coat which I* being worn by Wr» George Gould l, trimm< 1 diagonally on the body and sleeves with rows of black guipure insertion The sleeves are a!»o tucked diagonal!) . and at the there are frtl:» of b:a.~k chirr n The square re\crs are edged with a quill ing of black chiffon and rosettes of chif fon. whll# soft folds of th# same gauxv material are drawn down between them and appear in front. A knotted silk fringe surrounds the basque, and at the throat there Is a scarf of the fashionable Cluny lace In a deep ecru tone The hat which Mrs. Gould wears with this coat Is made of orosaway fokis of black glace silk, and the brim is veiled wiU> chiffon. Two .urgu rosettes of chif- A Novel Visit© and Short Coat fon and some jetted ospreys give a light and graceful effect that Is very pleasing. A very original vlsite is made of black peau de sole and accordion plaited chif fon. It Is cut short at the back, but has long pointed ends Jn front, which are trimmed with narrow black silk guipure. The rounded collar and revers are faced with accordion plaited chiffon and edged with full chiffon quillings. The deep, ac cordion plaited chiffon flounce which forms the sleeves Is also quilled at its border. There Is an Inner waistcoat of plaited chiffon, which holds the garment closely to the figure at the hack, and to complete the toilet there Is a large hat of drawn chiffon trimmed with long black paradise ospreys. Under the left side are folds of flame-colored velvet, caught with two paste and silver buckles. ('a|ie« proper range from very short to medium short, a.id while nine in ten are covered with frills of the most diaphan ous fabrics, a few are as quaintly prim and old-time In cut and fln'sh as If res cued from an attic chest wheie they had lain for half a hundred years. One of these new-old models lx shawl ahajxHl, pointed in the back, rounding up In front, and reminiscent of old school, stately ladles, though designed to gra'o the youngrer ami more frivolous of their grandchildren The material Is Mick sat in and the decorations are throe ehaliow scalloping flounces of open J> twork over putting* of white chiffon. These are set about Ihe shoulders, again at the level of the elbows and Just below tile waist lino. The cope baa a high oollar fastened by fulling ends of wide ribbon, which are caught by an old-fashioned buikle of gold and silver filigree. Jaunty little r«j*« that reach just to the elbows are as numerous as ever, together with longer ones that quite cover lh» arms. A handsome <ap« In pantel blue cloth Is closely kilted from top to bot tom and Is run at the edge with three or four rows of Mack velvet ribbon. But the chic of the whole affair really rest-- on tio> broad l>lack velvet that is threaded about the shoulders through a < urlous pointed application that Is |>artly braid anl part ly thick Incrustations of coarse linen pail lettes. wholly original anl effective Alternate rows of bln.k velvet and whit lace Insertion form another cape made o H white satin lining The velvet U del<- ofttely embroidered with turquoise steel and J*-t, «»ul the garment I a edged by a dwp fl >iuic* of white glaca covered by one of black chiffon. There ar*« stole end® In front which are of black an t white chiffon A wry beautiful little cvsnlnit cap* la made of white satin veiled with i deep flounce of embroidered Mack chiffon It haw a high collar with M full ruffle of white lace w.ilch cascade* down the front, fastening at the throat with a stiver clasp. There «re stole ends of black chiffon and large, ( ut *.a udlr.g revets, like bati* wing*, of black velvet The newest golf capes come in :>lsids that are hiiicrn l as much like a g > bang board a« ever Tbe> are remarkably light and brilliant In color but show few do 11- ed novelties In design Among amort I > cut ck>th coata f r economically minded women there ar*» numberlea* tutonn and Kton coat* and plain, abort, tight-fittin* cu'aways. rhow amall rev em torn LT»> k JUKI enough to ahow the n» ktK ard which fastc.i with bora buttons. The cutaway nev*r goes o\* any more than doe# the orresp "vlitt* ' -hton for men It ma> \ ry a little in b *IK' 1 In the st> le of ale* M, or lo Uu >u and rhape of the revers. bit to all in tents and purpose* It is the <Mmo gar ment from season to season Man? w ■.>♦ men prefer this garment so atnngl> ~s to cling I » it whatever th»» n« \ "lO*-* Some of th»- pen «oats have rather high oi ls r a which flare from the reck, but moat of the cellars turn down . ith«T square or round KI A JK N »SHe R \ iiurcu \letorla Mild fh «* !n«)iioii«. The ordinary woman's desire for pretty and >naMe clothes is ua\,«*lly only bound* d bv her power <>f purchasing them and It la consequently rather curl oua that as money is absolutely no ob ject to them Victoria and her eat daughter, the l»mpre»s Frederb k. have never been women of fashion Her majesty ha* never ceased to cherish the traditions of her youth, that fabrics were valuable only for their intrlnalc goodness, and ought to be made to last as long us possible. On thts principle, when she WAS a young mother, she bought the best of cloth and French merino for her chil dren's frocks and had them turned for tha second or third winter. lake all other little people, princes and prim eses had an endless succession of starched white embroidered muslins for summer. The royal mother herself had a predilection for pink *ilk tot evening we at THE SEATTLE POST-INTELLIGEXCER, SUNDAY, MAY f», 1900. WOiSfS WHOLE EXISTENCE. from her first banquet with the city fathers onward. She also recognized dark blue or royal purple and crimson velvet as essentially regal colors and material, and wore them, trimmed with ermine, as siduously as her right and prerogative. When she fell In love with Scotland and all things Scottish, tartans became her favorite wear, the royal Victoria, which Is a fancy tartan for taste, and the royal Stuart for sentiment. A velvet dinner dress of royal Stuart tartan Is always In cluded In the trousseaux of her descend ants. She also Indulged in Paisley shawls. Irish poplins she has always genuinely liked both for herself and others, and has given them away right generously. Her majesty was In the prime of womanhood when the second French em pire flourished, and Its fashions suited her plump, wholesome style of figure and complexion. She wore crinoline, but never to excess. This was the period in which her personal dress proclivities took root, and her taste, though now subdued by wearing only black and occasionally gray, remains frankly Philistine. In the aes thetic tendencies of later years Queen Victoria and her children have had neither art nor part. The "gTeenery-yallery" was not for them, nor were the straight-down smocked dresses and limp sashes; and, truth to tell, none of them since early girlhood have heen slender enoufrh to look well in such attire. For real lace her ma jesty has always had a very great fancy, less for Its effeit as an adjunct of dress than for Its own Intrinsic beauty. She has. In fact, collected lace as some women col lect china or gems. The laces of the Brit ish Isles have been chosen by way of en couraging local Industries, as, for In st.-in'e, when she selected Honiton for her wedding gown, following in that respect the example of her Aunt Adelaide, the wife of William TV., who had worn and had made for her a great deal or Honiton lace, ami of Prln-ess Charlotte, the daugh ter of CJeorge IV. Most of her trousseau underlinen was trimmed with fine naarow Buckinghamshire pillowmide edging, and when the princess royal was b >rn the lac* for her christening robe wa* specially made In Bucks. She also sent down some beautiful Brussels lace to see If the Buck inghamshire women could <opy It, as she observed that the same stitches were used in both countries. The queen Is a con noisseur of Irish lace, and has some beau tiful specimens of rose needlepoint and of the finest and most elahorate crochet gui pure in black and cream silk as well as fine cotton. She has some of the very loveliest Chantilly and Point d'Alencon and Cluny la<cs, to say nothing of Valen ciennes, and Indeed her treasures of this kind form a perfect museum Princess Henry of Kattenberg Inherits her mother's predilection for lace, and Is the owner of the old black Spanish she found when rummaging at Windsor castle, which Is said to have belonged to Catherine of Aragon. Queen Victoria has always b»en difficult to please in the matter of her i rocades. and only one or two old weavers In the south of France have ever made them to her satisfaction. When she want ed a very beautiful black grenadine with raised flowers, a new Jacquard loom was seit up for It and cards prepared which were afterwards destroyed, that no copy might be made. One of the old weave s was set to work on It, and could only make very slow progress, but it was fin ished at last. The gold and silver em broidered black brocado with Its white front she wore at the diamond jubilee drawing room pleased her so much that she was photographed In It and signed thn portrait. In bonnets the queen has for many years remained faithful to a small shape that cornea well forward on her head, and exactly suJts her hair parted In the middle, as she has always worn it. She has at last discarded frepe, and gen erally has it trimmed with small black ostrich tlpis, among which a white one is sometimes inserted on festive occasions. All last summer she wore a blaek chin mushroom hat trimmed with beautiful long black and white ostrich plumes that are almost priceless, and she usually wears a plain black hat of this form when going about the grounds Mid gar dens of her various residentes In her donkey chair. The black Vienna cloth of which her ordinary dresses are made is very good and costs a guinea a yard; the thinner ones are silk or grenadine, for she feels the heat very much In summer Her un derwear Is the very best and finest long cloth. and costs three-six a yard. Tills Is certainly not fashionable, only comfort able, for nearly every one now puts tine silk or soft cashmere next the skin.—Mrs. K R Clarke In Frank Popular Monthly for May Some IIIK Kire* in Hnropp In there was an enormous conflagra tion at Liverpool, which destroyed mor« than $.">.000,000 worth «>f property. In the year 1700 over onp-half of the city of Ed inburgh was destroyed by tire In IS*v> there was a tire in <Constantinople which destroyed 2.*00 buildings, shops and ba saars. But Constantinople's greatest fire occurred In l*7o. when almost half the peninsula on which the city is built was swept by the conflagration. No record exists of the number of houses destroyed on this occasion, but the value of the prop erty lost w.»s *abl to exceed 125,000,000. some floreiTics A HATS SIP PARASOLS. FRUIT FOR SPRING It Is Good to the Palate and for the Stomach, Which Is Better. •JPTBffc a Dloofl purffter, renovator and tonic, fruit Is invaluable, and at this season should form one J ■ of the staples of diet. The ™ lassitude which we call "spring fever," the generally run-down feeling to which we are liable, and the debility that takes on one form or another ot disease. If unchecked, may be overcome in most cases by an appropriate modi fication of diet. moat and more fruit and vegetables, especially tart fruits and salads, are desirable. Simple salads, such as cress, chicory and let tuce, with lemon Juice substituted for vinegar, could be eaten with advantage three times a day. Mayonnaise and other heavy dressings should be avoided, however, and even in the French dress ing it is better to use less oil than usual. Fruit salads or fruit alone, are medicinal as well as appetizing. Grape fruit, which was prohibitive in price for many persons during the winter, has be come cheaper, and there is nothing bet ter for the system. Plentiful indulgence in it will make the doctor's visits few and far apart. Oranges, too, have been A Pretty Fichu. unusually good this spring, and cheap enough for everybody to enjoy. Tart apples are still in the market, although the price is soaring. Baked, they constitute a wholesome dish for br» akfast and luncheon or for dessert with dinner. Many persons are fond of apples served as a salad, although this Is said to be a cultivated taste. When so used they should be sliced thin and sprinkled with lemon juice before being dressed with the oil, pepper and salt. Many persons omit not only the vine gar but the pepper in salads of this sort. This is a matter of taste. In re gard to pepper, paprika is recommended whenever seasoning is used, it being bet ter flavored and more wholesome than the white or black ]>eppers and less ug gressive than the red. A doctor of wide experience says that in fevers he gives to his patients gTapes and strawberries In small but frequent doses, or. If these are not obtainable, he substitutes oranges and baked ap ples. You may not like the baked ap ples so well without sugar and cream, but they are better for you as a spring food. Apples are considered an ideal food, there being few persons who cannot eat them, raw or cooked When fresh ones are out of season or expensive, dried ap ples form a good substitute. Dried pears, peaches, prunes and apricots are excellent "between seasons," and if properly pre pared are highly palatable. They should always be well soaked before cooking and shouid be cooked thoroughly. A bit of lemon peel sometimes Improves the flavor. Prunes oh peaches are nice served In a gelatine Jelly flavored with the Juice of the fruit. Another variation may be made by pouring over the fruit a light meringue and setting In the oven for a few minutes before serving. Baker apples may be pre pared In the same way. Bananas con tain Iron and are beneficial In enriching the blood. For those who find them hard to digest raw they may be baked, a little sugar, lemon juice and butter being add ed. In this form they are both palatable and digestible. Much has been said recently about the lemon juice cure for rheumatism. Many physicians indorse this and recommend It for the gout also. Th« greatest English authority on gout Garrod prescribes oranges, lemons, strawberries, grapes, pears and apples for his patients. A French physician of equal prominence says that the salts of potash found so plentifully In fruits and vegetables are the chief agents in purifying the blood from rheumatic and gouty poisons. The sluggish action of liver and bowels, which produces so many ills in our highly civilized life of today, may be overcome more readily by the use of fruit than drugs, according to a recognized medical authority. Tl.o whole profession regards a diet of fruit ana vegetables as the only remwly in scurvy, and some other diseases atteart el by u general breaking up of the r.yt tem, Hnd science is looking to the same remedy for help In the treatment of everyday diseases resulting from Impure blood, such as rheumatism, skin diseases, rickets, etc The reason that food of this kind is so essential at the end of winter Is that our energies have been strung so taut to meet the exigencies of cold weather that the reaction of the firm warm days Is likely to bring about a corresponding debility. The blood, which has been nourished by heavy foods all the winter, is thick and sluggish, and needs to be purified. Fruit acids and vegetable salts accomplish this. Rhubarb, although strictly a vegetable. Is usually regarded as a fruit. Its medi cinal properties are of the highest value. Many tire of it quickly because it usually is served in the stereotyped, not especially tempting stew. This may be varied agree ably by baking or servtng with a mer ingue. Strawberries have been In the market a long time, but are just beginning to be available for the ordinary housekeeper. This Is an excellent spring food for those who can eat it, but there are those to whom the strawberry acid is a poison. This is said to be true, however, only of the cultivated berry, and not In its will state. One thing that recommends the straw berry to the housewife is its appearance. It decorates the table as admirably as any plant or flower. It is the first distinctively spring fruit, and that makes it doubly valued. Moreover, it ran be used in an in finity of ways. If the berries are particu larly fine there is no better way to serve them than in their natural state, stems and all, with a few leaves if possible. They may be dusted lightly with powdered sugar, or each individual may dip them one by one in sugar to suit himself. This is the way to get the full flavor of the berry and to be most benefited by its use. Strawberries and cream, which appeal strongly to many people, are a combina tion denounced by some health authori ties. who point out that the acid in the berries disagrees with the cream violently in the stomach of him who partakes of this delectable but alleged unwholesome dish. Strawberry shortcake If not rernrnmend ed for its health-promoting qualities, but as it will continue to be eaten by the vast majority of people every season, here is a recipe for It: Make a crust with one cup of flour, one teaspoon of baking powder, one tablespoon of butter and a little lc© cold water. Roll thin and bake in pie tins. Spread the crusts first with butter, and then with slightly crushed and sweetened strawberries, putting a layer of them also over the top. Many prefer plain to whipped cream for this kind of shortcake. Strawberry pie Is made by lining: a pie tin with puff paste, and when well baked and cool filling with crushed strawberries sweetened to taste, and Just before serv ing 1 covering with whipped cream. Tarts may be made in a similar manner, omit ting the cream. Strawberry dumplings are made with biscuit dough baked in a quick oven In muffin rings and tilled with fresh, sweet ened berries when done. They are served hot with plain or whipped cream. More healthful desserts may be made with gelatine or tapioca. For a pudding, soak half a box of gelatine In cold water, then add half a pint of boiling water and the Juice of two lemons and two oranges, with a cup and a half of sugar. As the Jelly hardens stir in as many st rawberri«s as desired, a few at a time. A sauce for this pudding Is made by creaming half a cup of butter, adding a cup of sugar, the beaten white of an egg and a cup of crushed strawberries It should be set on the ice until cold. This may be served also with other puddings. Strawberry tapioca is made by soaking a cup of pearl tapioca in a pint of cold water for two hours, then cooking in a double boiler until clear and stirring into it a quart of ripe berries and a cup of sugar. Serve cold with cream. Strawberry ice cream Is delicious made from the fresh berries. An agreeable change may ive made by making a sauce of crushed and sweetened berries and pouring It over vanilla ice cream. BACK TO HIGH HEELS They Are Nearly as Common as Trains —Are the Feet Less Sen sitive Than of Yore ? CHAT women have gone bark to high, in some instance® to highest, heeled shoes is a fact evident to all who note the ways of fashion lead ers. High heels in the house are the rule rather than the exception. High heels on the afternoon promenand# are seen nearly as commonly as trains, while for evening: use the elevated, heel Is an almost indis pensable badge of fashion. Woman's morning and golfing boots, even, are made with military heels an eighth of an inch taller than thope .worn last season. Rubbers have to conform to the increased height of shoe heels. Thus the fancy for being higher up in the world has affected all the footwear of wo men. Elevated shoes and lengthened trains: Is it to these additions that we owe the declaration that women are becoming taller? High heels appear even on certain flexi ble little afternoon ties of glased tan kid with straight tips and narrow, rounding toes. It is anticipated that there will be a demand for these dainty foot coverings that represent a medium in dress between heaCy calfskin and black patent leather. The navy blue foulard silk gown, the al most staple summer afternoon gown, probably is responsible for tho creation of just this class in shoes. Women wanted something correspondingly thin and plia ble. Navy or Yale blue lisle thread or silk stockings. woven so loosely that they are railed 'Tare," lire In choicer style with these pretty brown shoe* with high heels and the Yale or navy blue foulard than tan stockings of any description. There Is every indication that Russia calf low shoes will he worn during sum mer mornings, almost to the exclusion of Mack, which look warm In the sunlight to us, now that we are accustomed to the appearance of the golden brown leather. Certainly, the calfskin shoes are more comfortable than any bla* k ones when worn on the hot pavements Our low shoes and golf boots for the sea son are done from a rich yellowish brown color, the ruddy hue of a new evening dress case Soles are fairly thick and ex tended. Toes are inclined to round, being lef«s extreme than those of last year with out at all approaching the toothpick va riety. Many women think them more sen sible than the "common-sense" sort Itself, because extreme. They are cut !o*er at the l a k and than formally; aa miw h as a (quarter of an Inch on **oine stylea. We made mo vnucn complaint year about the sharp sides and becks of our tan and bla'k ties that the manufacturery beard our criea and good-naturedly cut all our shoe* down this year. Incidentally, by the way, if we dealt last summer with a sympathetic shoe man, he had the hurtful height lowered for u» there and then. A most Important change In the new tools, aa well ua *'s, i* |„ ,he flaitt>iiln« ef the toe. It 1. limp on the leather at the extreme Recall lest see son > "e*K-»h«n»Hl" point, ami picture how this wouM Ifxjk If »lth your thumb you could make a dimple on the tup of the "Women I ke to have their fwt look flu* when they kjuih' down at them,' n.ill the ! ead of a ronsenatlve shoe deportment I suppnee tl*t it Is the lonic mirror which !* chl'-fly re.«i»,nsU>ie for Ihe new flat toe. In profile, with the eKK-ehapel toe, a l oot aj-iwir.-d to turn up "Ttie flut toe on a walking boot Is tho choicest yet produced." I told the shoe i-*pert that the womt-n seem to make their own fashions In foot wear, then. To whk-h he rwpl'.-d with <l.f er.-nce and s..m.- emphasis th.n It was "a tjout WJ." The j*>lntel tip, either from talent leath er or kid, is out of date. Women c<»n --*! i<»r St u,n fanciful for 'ommon ur-»« ~nd too nnlrky for g»>oil style. Though. b> .% > jtlous c< >n trad lotion. It 'om* h on our ''"aif g''lf Is'wits, n«"#t as an added piece of leather, but in the shape of orna mental punctures. These tiny hoi**s are repeated ov<t *»ur golf tkK>ts in line.* wlifr ever the J<>inings come Golf boota. which sre higher than ordi nary t»oots, nor yet of the altitude of the decease.! bicycle variety, also are brave with a strcLp and g wKI-sized brasi but kie near the top. These by way of ->rfwimerit, and in line with the tendency to trim our irarments, which are usually severe, xx the shirt waist and the sailor hat. Tea. and the tailor-made sk'rt with i:» bo* and other plaiua The departed b»oy le boot I mentioned. "We have not a 'ioien pair* in the »tor<\' - said m> noiuwrvative dealer. "The hiryrie riders who have not developed into *oif player* wear low shoea altogether. elth.*r tan or Ula^k." Abrjut tUai'k boots of or Unary heijtht, it may he well to call attention to the "stay ' which comes now on the ba/ k. and extunda from the lop of the heel {dec,, to th« hei<rht of tho upper. It Is put on aj an effort to counteriK-t t)>e ravages of the stentle dress braid. And it is fairly suc cessful. The braid manufacturer* having succeeded In producing one or two aoits that lajit a time, soraethin* in the fc£igUlx>rhood hu* to £ive way. The Newest Qolf Coat, and Capo. It Is portions of the shoes. An! so *«. rlou."«ly do ConM lent lout) t«v>t merchant* take this wear an-i tear that an effort will be rmule next year to popularise laced shoes, rather thun those which button. Then the laelngs, and not the shoe fronti, will have to take. the punishment. There is no other ways of relnforcln* the fronts of txvots, though, a* ha» been paid, the backs now have extra pieces, which or# replaced or removed at need. Patent leather continues to be the dress leather for fashionable feminine as well us masculine wear. Hoots are made with the vamps of It, the tops of dull black kid. Ties from it with hlifh heels are afternoon full dress for the foot. And evening slippers, whether In "opera" shape or with the buckle and wtd# tonirue, nre most popularly made from patent leather. Despite Its discomfort, nothing takes the place of patent leather Just yet. Though T know from good authority that a manufacturer Is experimenting with a material which he calls "patent kid." Indeed, he has been at work for two years trying to find a material ai handsome as patent leather without its objectionable qualities. Next fall prob ably will see the new kid done Into ac cepted shapes, and we may hope to hava dress shoes aa comfortable as the* art beautiful. No special call for white low ties dur ing the summer is anticipated, though a few undoubtedly will be worn, at usual. Evening slipper* almost without ex cept !on are fleoorated with sliver, gilt of rhlnestone buckles, often of large site. And the shoe man must exercise great ca rti to select surh example* of the Jeweler's art as shall not tear lingerie. An excellent pair of round buckles, somewhat larger than ten-cent piece* rhlnestone set. sells for 53.&0. l*eas and less do the fashionable shoa dealers to keep in etook aovtW ties in women's boots and shoes. "When a woman wants something out of th# ordinary," said a dealer, "ihe wants It so different from what any other woman would care for that It would ruin a merchant to attempt to forestall her fan ry. We can make up anything In ten days, sometimes less." White satin slippers, tintrimmed, are kept r» n hand for Immediate use. On# buys for decoration an ornament which is a stiffened piece securing four seta of loops of white satin. A pearl or rhlne stone buckle in at the renter. Special points in spring and summer shoes for women are these: Higher military heels on ordinary boot* and ties; flattened toes, shortened side* and bark on ties, with high Quins* heels, if you want to be in extreme of fashion, whenever not In strictly morn ing, promenade or athletic dress. MAROKRY DAW. SOMK WAV* OF THE WORLD. 1 Difference Between Fashionable Im defy lu Knee lau«l and America. The radical difference between Kngilsl| and American f tehlonable life Ilea with! the men The women are similar to th one who occupy th*- same social poaition ove# bcr»> In fact, they outherod Herod In fine laiy sm" and uj*-<opiate, occupations. With the men It Is entirely dlfTerfrtt. aW* ing to thHr methods of living nod the f«■ t that in America there I* practically n<» leisure Ha**- nine-tenths of th« "fash lonablea" ere hard-working busings* men. who sue obliged to conform to hours and while n Kngiand <»nly men *>f leisure attempt to k..,<p up the f**hl<nia*l» pa e. Aa they aro fr**»* at all tlmee of the year to K ivo themsclv** up to th*> ]»ureull of pleasure, their favorite i«*»tJmca naU urally form the ha hits of srfxHety. "Th" American a»|ety man is th# grufc and the Englishman 1* the butterfly," ra» marked an Amerl.tui girl who h*ji live! several yeara In England. "In my there Is no r<»mparieon Mween the men Of that *pecie« in the two countrlea Br this I m»»an simply the worldlings ~U* cl.ikm who *■ '-hlef aim In life s*ems to be t-» exist fashli umbly. Undoubtedly, takM aa « whole, A marl con men are inferior (a n«»ne. Un l ar#« sup» rior to moat, But H| what called the 'smart set* ih#*re is rer tainly a n *>< »-able dtfTere nc* whftth Is n** In favor of - ir countrymen NV>t that this riti Ism applie to ail, but It Ih a rale that Is proved t»y the exceptions. ** A straw wM h '-triphasics the way thg win-j l>lows In this direction is the com* pletely oppoalre manner In ahlch the fash ion,i ■ 4'* men of the tw«» countries *ien4 In ounlry t h<- icr«-at thing i» t » get o*it "f town 'o ride, play golf and indulge la other fashionable Tbls meal* r f , Tirne. that during the w»efc the "gilded youth" ha ve busy In COtiflfle Ing y- and Wa 1 street nfflnea. sad have had no time f>tr surii pleasure*, the o *r 1 • of «he t *>an It is "»>: v i"- The bualnes« fit the week sH s of country amusements snl 5la f ar« Ays and Hun (lays are the day* that thes# fav'>rltea *>t fortune select to so tip t® • an to o« ape the t»»di«im of an Idle Sun* 'ay In the co-iritry. They •. !T their clobf an<i go to the play 'n Saturday iifbtg etc. In England no one that any V*** teni«f of >*\rin In society is se*n In tosrd after Augunt *2, the shrating seaaon. TMi.; Ih iu r fh« manv fashionable f«d| :ts thai govern Var.Hy Pair N<»t to own or to b* -ki-d to a rr»'» ;r or country on date argu*a at not of the elect. liirt all datea hwre are alika t& the fashionable oualneae man. who taIMS his l»rit*f holiday when hia affairs jsurmiW A f«-w w« ka at Newport In a*i 1 several daye now ind again as a guest at some house party In th<» autumn are his onJy op; ortuijtles to play th# foundry "guntleman."