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The Seattle post-intelligencer. [volume] (Seattle, Wash. Terr. [Wash.]) 1888-1914, May 06, 1900, Image 30

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The Beauties and Whimsicalities of
the Wrap for Warm
nEW YORK, May 6.~The spring
wrap is a I way ft beautiful; It
doesn't need to be protective to
mcire than a limited degree.
It Is n foarn and a froth Of rib
bons and luce* and ruffles; It glimmers
and flushes with sequin* and Jet, and It
belongs to the sunshlna and sweet air.
Just M do the young leaves and hiossorns,
and the big hat* covered with chiffon
roses, and the spiders' canopies misnamed
When It Is a long wrap It Is like a veil
thst floats about the figure, transparent
and misty. Often the under side of It Is
of white chiffon and the upper side of
black net. fraying Into lace edges ant!
broken with Insertions of black Chantllly.
When It Is a short wrap It Is a dainty
fichu cape, filmy a* a summer cloud, and
whimsically suggesting an Impossible rap
prochement of laughing loving Marie An
toinette and the grave Puritan maiden in
simple gray frock and snowy kerchief.
Or els#' it Is n capriciously extravagant
1111le bolero, a garment fit for Mab, queen
Of the fairies, with Its collars and revers
and even linings of costly Mallnex. Alen
con or Angletsrrc lace and Its fiostlngs
of embroidery and sequins.
To be sure there are heavier wraps -
driving coats of putty-colored cloth, long
enough to reach the knees and elaborately
Stitched to stlmulat* doubk garments,
the Vandvked upper part falling over
rows of horlEontal stitching and the col
lars and ruffs maintaining by their decor
ations the same pious fraud.
And there are race coats stitched snd
embroidered until It would seem that
"seven maids with seven nsedles stitch
ing set en > ears'' could not accomplish
their Intricacies of detail One such < »«t
In pale mastic cloth belongs to the trous
seau of Miss Kdlth Morton, whose mar
riage took place Inst week It reaches
nearly to the feet and Is partly fitted at
the bark, the sides being laid in flat
plaits, which seem to fall from under a
short bolero. 'Hound the neck is a white
cloth ape bra hied with arabesques in
Hi t•• 11 ■ color This ii*e* at the throat ,nto
a high collar and Is prolonged In front
Into a panel In the form of a stole, which
continue* to the bottom of the garment
snd then encircles It
Put despite this and other etnmplos,
the latest long coat Is of nothing thicker
than taffeta, and 1* remarkably fuli by
reason of an infinity of tuck* and yet
commendably lisht because unltned and
most cleverly manipulated It I* semi
fitting rather than of sack shape, and If
of bin* k It has lmtnen*e revers snd collar
of white silk ir. rusted perhaps with a
ctvarsc tinted lace. «hi! r tw tt the st.le
may fall a scarf of deep yellow applique.
For the matron a three-quart* r * coat
of more d'Snlt \ l» > f I i.t * res'; le sole
st It * he.l (terpen Ih uLarl) In fine tuck*. an 1
having It* sktrts ov lui.i with a deep
application of coarsely pattereoed } : a <-k
1■ ufte\t 11 lace The >.it Is edged by the
InexltaMe fT -n ftil! ruched with * ; i«e
and Its enorm u*l> high, flowerllke collar
». to be held In place by a N*oad black
velvet rlMvjn which Is knotted baclt anl
front, leaving long. 1 pe 1 ends
In contrast with these garments are
horde* of little tsffct* Coatees an l boler)>«
of at it lush smarl s«ve T »t> th-e resting
for inch « t, success -r. « ' vN.rate tuck
ing* siramdnss and dartn* outline of
revers snd high collar One new bolero,
though Ma> is utv>n us. is » f hi* g velvet,
nlth facings >f w te satin ? .t W a e
and row® f Mack velvet ri
Another *hort coat, which n » » n
of ahlte or Mack satin. i* lined with soft
Marie Antoinette silk and
rcvers, collar snd cuff# overUid with lace
or heavily stitched.
K mil* Ma k silk coat which I* being
worn by Wr» George Gould l, trimm< 1
diagonally on the body and sleeves with
rows of black guipure insertion The
sleeves are a!»o tucked diagonal!) . and at
the there are frtl:» of b:a.~k chirr n
The square re\crs are edged with a quill
ing of black chiffon and rosettes of chif
fon. whll# soft folds of th# same gauxv
material are drawn down between them
and appear in front. A knotted silk fringe
surrounds the basque, and at the throat
there Is a scarf of the fashionable Cluny
lace In a deep ecru tone
The hat which Mrs. Gould wears with
this coat Is made of orosaway fokis of
black glace silk, and the brim is veiled
wiU> chiffon. Two .urgu rosettes of chif-
A Novel Visit© and Short Coat
fon and some jetted ospreys give a light
and graceful effect that Is very pleasing.
A very original vlsite is made of black
peau de sole and accordion plaited chif
fon. It Is cut short at the back, but has
long pointed ends Jn front, which are
trimmed with narrow black silk guipure.
The rounded collar and revers are faced
with accordion plaited chiffon and edged
with full chiffon quillings. The deep, ac
cordion plaited chiffon flounce which forms
the sleeves Is also quilled at its border.
There Is an Inner waistcoat of plaited
chiffon, which holds the garment closely
to the figure at the hack, and to complete
the toilet there Is a large hat of drawn
chiffon trimmed with long black paradise
ospreys. Under the left side are folds of
flame-colored velvet, caught with two
paste and silver buckles.
('a|ie« proper range from very short to
medium short, a.id while nine in ten are
covered with frills of the most diaphan
ous fabrics, a few are as quaintly prim
and old-time In cut and fln'sh as If res
cued from an attic chest wheie they had
lain for half a hundred years.
One of these new-old models lx shawl
ahajxHl, pointed in the back, rounding up
In front, and reminiscent of old school,
stately ladles, though designed to gra'o
the youngrer ami more frivolous of their
grandchildren The material Is Mick sat
in and the decorations are throe ehaliow
scalloping flounces of open J> twork over
putting* of white chiffon. These are set
about Ihe shoulders, again at the level of
the elbows and Just below tile waist lino.
The cope baa a high oollar fastened by
fulling ends of wide ribbon, which are
caught by an old-fashioned buikle of
gold and silver filigree.
Jaunty little r«j*« that reach just to the
elbows are as numerous as ever, together
with longer ones that quite cover lh»
arms. A handsome <ap« In pantel blue
cloth Is closely kilted from top to bot
tom and Is run at the edge with three or
four rows of Mack velvet ribbon. But the
chic of the whole affair really rest-- on tio>
broad l>lack velvet that is threaded about
the shoulders through a < urlous pointed
application that Is |>artly braid anl part
ly thick Incrustations of coarse linen pail
lettes. wholly original anl effective
Alternate rows of bln.k velvet and whit
lace Insertion form another cape made o
H white satin lining The velvet U del<-
ofttely embroidered with turquoise steel
and J*-t, «»ul the garment I a edged by a
dwp fl >iuic* of white glaca covered
by one of black chiffon. There ar*« stole
end® In front which are of black an t white
A wry beautiful little cvsnlnit cap* la
made of white satin veiled with i deep
flounce of embroidered Mack chiffon It
haw a high collar with M full ruffle of
white lace w.ilch cascade* down the front,
fastening at the throat with a stiver clasp.
There «re stole ends of black chiffon and
large, ( ut *.a udlr.g revets, like bati* wing*,
of black velvet
The newest golf capes come in :>lsids
that are hiiicrn l as much like a g > bang
board a« ever Tbe> are remarkably light
and brilliant In color but show few do 11-
ed novelties In design
Among amort I > cut ck>th coata f r
economically minded women there ar*»
numberlea* tutonn and Kton coat* and
plain, abort, tight-fittin* cu'aways. rhow
amall rev em torn LT»> k JUKI enough to
ahow the n» ktK ard which fastc.i with
bora buttons. The cutaway nev*r goes
o\* any more than doe# the orresp "vlitt*
' -hton for men It ma> \ ry a little in
b *IK' 1 In the st> le of ale* M, or lo Uu >u
and rhape of the revers. bit to all in
tents and purpose* It is the <Mmo gar
ment from season to season Man? w ■.>♦
men prefer this garment so atnngl> ~s to
cling I » it whatever th»» n« \ "lO*-* Some
of th»- pen «oats have rather high oi
ls r a which flare from the reck, but moat
of the cellars turn down . ith«T square or
round KI A JK N »SHe R \
iiurcu \letorla Mild fh «* !n«)iioii«.
The ordinary woman's desire for pretty
and >naMe clothes is ua\,«*lly only
bound* d bv her power <>f purchasing
them and It la consequently rather curl
oua that as money is absolutely no ob
ject to them Victoria and her
eat daughter, the l»mpre»s Frederb k.
have never been women of fashion Her
majesty ha* never ceased to cherish the
traditions of her youth, that fabrics were
valuable only for their intrlnalc goodness,
and ought to be made to last as long us
possible. On thts principle, when she WAS
a young mother, she bought the best of
cloth and French merino for her chil
dren's frocks and had them turned for tha
second or third winter.
lake all other little people, princes and
prim eses had an endless succession of
starched white embroidered muslins for
summer. The royal mother herself had a
predilection for pink *ilk tot evening we at
from her first banquet with the city
fathers onward. She also recognized dark
blue or royal purple and crimson velvet
as essentially regal colors and material,
and wore them, trimmed with ermine, as
siduously as her right and prerogative.
When she fell In love with Scotland and
all things Scottish, tartans became her
favorite wear, the royal Victoria, which Is
a fancy tartan for taste, and the royal
Stuart for sentiment. A velvet dinner
dress of royal Stuart tartan Is always In
cluded In the trousseaux of her descend
ants. She also Indulged in Paisley shawls.
Irish poplins she has always genuinely
liked both for herself and others, and has
given them away right generously.
Her majesty was In the prime of
womanhood when the second French em
pire flourished, and Its fashions suited her
plump, wholesome style of figure and
complexion. She wore crinoline, but never
to excess. This was the period in which
her personal dress proclivities took root,
and her taste, though now subdued by
wearing only black and occasionally gray,
remains frankly Philistine. In the aes
thetic tendencies of later years Queen
Victoria and her children have had neither
art nor part. The "gTeenery-yallery" was
not for them, nor were the straight-down
smocked dresses and limp sashes; and,
truth to tell, none of them since early
girlhood have heen slender enoufrh to look
well in such attire. For real lace her ma
jesty has always had a very great fancy,
less for Its effeit as an adjunct of dress
than for Its own Intrinsic beauty. She has.
In fact, collected lace as some women col
lect china or gems. The laces of the Brit
ish Isles have been chosen by way of en
couraging local Industries, as, for In
st.-in'e, when she selected Honiton for her
wedding gown, following in that respect
the example of her Aunt Adelaide, the
wife of William TV., who had worn and
had made for her a great deal or Honiton
lace, ami of Prln-ess Charlotte, the daugh
ter of CJeorge IV. Most of her trousseau
underlinen was trimmed with fine naarow
Buckinghamshire pillowmide edging, and
when the princess royal was b >rn the lac*
for her christening robe wa* specially
made In Bucks. She also sent down some
beautiful Brussels lace to see If the Buck
inghamshire women could <opy It, as she
observed that the same stitches were used
in both countries. The queen Is a con
noisseur of Irish lace, and has some beau
tiful specimens of rose needlepoint and of
the finest and most elahorate crochet gui
pure in black and cream silk as well as
fine cotton. She has some of the very
loveliest Chantilly and Point d'Alencon
and Cluny la<cs, to say nothing of Valen
ciennes, and Indeed her treasures of this
kind form a perfect museum Princess
Henry of Kattenberg Inherits her mother's
predilection for lace, and Is the owner of
the old black Spanish she found when
rummaging at Windsor castle, which Is
said to have belonged to Catherine of
Aragon. Queen Victoria has always b»en
difficult to please in the matter of her
i rocades. and only one or two old weavers
In the south of France have ever made
them to her satisfaction. When she want
ed a very beautiful black grenadine with
raised flowers, a new Jacquard loom was
seit up for It and cards prepared which
were afterwards destroyed, that no copy
might be made. One of the old weave s
was set to work on It, and could only
make very slow progress, but it was fin
ished at last. The gold and silver em
broidered black brocado with Its white
front she wore at the diamond jubilee
drawing room pleased her so much that
she was photographed In It and signed thn
portrait. In bonnets the queen has for
many years remained faithful to a small
shape that cornea well forward on her
head, and exactly suJts her hair parted In
the middle, as she has always worn it.
She has at last discarded frepe, and gen
erally has it trimmed with small black
ostrich tlpis, among which a white one is
sometimes inserted on festive occasions.
All last summer she wore a blaek chin
mushroom hat trimmed with beautiful
long black and white ostrich plumes that
are almost priceless, and she usually
wears a plain black hat of this form
when going about the grounds Mid gar
dens of her various residentes In her
donkey chair.
The black Vienna cloth of which her
ordinary dresses are made is very good
and costs a guinea a yard; the thinner
ones are silk or grenadine, for she feels
the heat very much In summer Her un
derwear Is the very best and finest long
cloth. and costs three-six a yard. Tills Is
certainly not fashionable, only comfort
able, for nearly every one now puts tine
silk or soft cashmere next the skin.—Mrs.
K R Clarke In Frank Popular
Monthly for May
Some IIIK Kire* in Hnropp
In there was an enormous conflagra
tion at Liverpool, which destroyed mor«
than $.">.000,000 worth «>f property. In the
year 1700 over onp-half of the city of Ed
inburgh was destroyed by tire In IS*v>
there was a tire in <Constantinople which
destroyed 2.*00 buildings, shops and ba
saars. But Constantinople's greatest fire
occurred In l*7o. when almost half the
peninsula on which the city is built was
swept by the conflagration. No record
exists of the number of houses destroyed
on this occasion, but the value of the prop
erty lost w.»s *abl to exceed 125,000,000.
some floreiTics A HATS SIP PARASOLS.
It Is Good to the Palate and for
the Stomach, Which
Is Better.
•JPTBffc a Dloofl purffter, renovator and
tonic, fruit Is invaluable, and
at this season should form one
J ■ of the staples of diet. The
™ lassitude which we call "spring
fever," the generally run-down feeling
to which we are liable, and the debility
that takes on one form or another ot
disease. If unchecked, may be overcome
in most cases by an appropriate modi
fication of diet. moat and more
fruit and vegetables, especially tart
fruits and salads, are desirable. Simple
salads, such as cress, chicory and let
tuce, with lemon Juice substituted for
vinegar, could be eaten with advantage
three times a day. Mayonnaise and
other heavy dressings should be avoided,
however, and even in the French dress
ing it is better to use less oil than
usual. Fruit salads or fruit alone, are
medicinal as well as appetizing. Grape
fruit, which was prohibitive in price for
many persons during the winter, has be
come cheaper, and there is nothing bet
ter for the system. Plentiful indulgence
in it will make the doctor's visits few
and far apart. Oranges, too, have been
A Pretty Fichu.
unusually good this spring, and cheap
enough for everybody to enjoy.
Tart apples are still in the market,
although the price is soaring. Baked,
they constitute a wholesome dish for
br» akfast and luncheon or for dessert
with dinner. Many persons are fond of
apples served as a salad, although this
Is said to be a cultivated taste. When
so used they should be sliced thin and
sprinkled with lemon juice before being
dressed with the oil, pepper and salt.
Many persons omit not only the vine
gar but the pepper in salads of this
sort. This is a matter of taste. In re
gard to pepper, paprika is recommended
whenever seasoning is used, it being bet
ter flavored and more wholesome than
the white or black ]>eppers and less ug
gressive than the red.
A doctor of wide experience says that
in fevers he gives to his patients gTapes
and strawberries In small but frequent
doses, or. If these are not obtainable,
he substitutes oranges and baked ap
ples. You may not like the baked ap
ples so well without sugar and cream,
but they are better for you as a spring
Apples are considered an ideal food,
there being few persons who cannot eat
them, raw or cooked When fresh ones
are out of season or expensive, dried ap
ples form a good substitute. Dried pears,
peaches, prunes and apricots are excellent
"between seasons," and if properly pre
pared are highly palatable. They should
always be well soaked before cooking and
shouid be cooked thoroughly. A bit of
lemon peel sometimes Improves the flavor.
Prunes oh peaches are nice served In a
gelatine Jelly flavored with the Juice of
the fruit. Another variation may be made
by pouring over the fruit a light meringue
and setting In the oven for a few minutes
before serving. Baker apples may be pre
pared In the same way. Bananas con
tain Iron and are beneficial In enriching
the blood. For those who find them hard
to digest raw they may be baked, a little
sugar, lemon juice and butter being add
ed. In this form they are both palatable
and digestible.
Much has been said recently about the
lemon juice cure for rheumatism. Many
physicians indorse this and recommend It
for the gout also. Th« greatest English
authority on gout Garrod prescribes
oranges, lemons, strawberries, grapes,
pears and apples for his patients. A
French physician of equal prominence
says that the salts of potash found so
plentifully In fruits and vegetables are
the chief agents in purifying the blood
from rheumatic and gouty poisons.
The sluggish action of liver and bowels,
which produces so many ills in our highly
civilized life of today, may be overcome
more readily by the use of fruit than
drugs, according to a recognized medical
Tl.o whole profession regards a diet of
fruit ana vegetables as the only remwly
in scurvy, and some other diseases atteart
el by u general breaking up of the r.yt
tem, Hnd science is looking to the same
remedy for help In the treatment of
everyday diseases resulting from Impure
blood, such as rheumatism, skin diseases,
rickets, etc
The reason that food of this kind is so
essential at the end of winter Is that our
energies have been strung so taut to meet
the exigencies of cold weather that the
reaction of the firm warm days Is likely
to bring about a corresponding debility.
The blood, which has been nourished by
heavy foods all the winter, is thick and
sluggish, and needs to be purified. Fruit
acids and vegetable salts accomplish this.
Rhubarb, although strictly a vegetable.
Is usually regarded as a fruit. Its medi
cinal properties are of the highest value.
Many tire of it quickly because it usually
is served in the stereotyped, not especially
tempting stew. This may be varied agree
ably by baking or servtng with a mer
Strawberries have been In the market a
long time, but are just beginning to be
available for the ordinary housekeeper.
This Is an excellent spring food for those
who can eat it, but there are those to
whom the strawberry acid is a poison.
This is said to be true, however, only of
the cultivated berry, and not In its will
One thing that recommends the straw
berry to the housewife is its appearance.
It decorates the table as admirably as any
plant or flower. It is the first distinctively
spring fruit, and that makes it doubly
valued. Moreover, it ran be used in an in
finity of ways. If the berries are particu
larly fine there is no better way to serve
them than in their natural state, stems
and all, with a few leaves if possible.
They may be dusted lightly with powdered
sugar, or each individual may dip them
one by one in sugar to suit himself. This
is the way to get the full flavor of the
berry and to be most benefited by its use.
Strawberries and cream, which appeal
strongly to many people, are a combina
tion denounced by some health authori
ties. who point out that the acid in the
berries disagrees with the cream violently
in the stomach of him who partakes of
this delectable but alleged unwholesome
Strawberry shortcake If not rernrnmend
ed for its health-promoting qualities, but
as it will continue to be eaten by the vast
majority of people every season, here is a
recipe for It: Make a crust with one cup
of flour, one teaspoon of baking powder,
one tablespoon of butter and a little lc©
cold water. Roll thin and bake in pie tins.
Spread the crusts first with butter, and
then with slightly crushed and sweetened
strawberries, putting a layer of them also
over the top. Many prefer plain to
whipped cream for this kind of shortcake.
Strawberry pie Is made by lining: a pie
tin with puff paste, and when well baked
and cool filling with crushed strawberries
sweetened to taste, and Just before serv
ing 1 covering with whipped cream. Tarts
may be made in a similar manner, omit
ting the cream.
Strawberry dumplings are made with
biscuit dough baked in a quick oven In
muffin rings and tilled with fresh, sweet
ened berries when done. They are served
hot with plain or whipped cream.
More healthful desserts may be made
with gelatine or tapioca. For a pudding,
soak half a box of gelatine In cold water,
then add half a pint of boiling water and
the Juice of two lemons and two oranges,
with a cup and a half of sugar. As the
Jelly hardens stir in as many st rawberri«s
as desired, a few at a time. A sauce for
this pudding Is made by creaming half a
cup of butter, adding a cup of sugar, the
beaten white of an egg and a cup of
crushed strawberries It should be set on
the ice until cold. This may be served
also with other puddings.
Strawberry tapioca is made by soaking a
cup of pearl tapioca in a pint of cold water
for two hours, then cooking in a double
boiler until clear and stirring into it a
quart of ripe berries and a cup of sugar.
Serve cold with cream.
Strawberry ice cream Is delicious made
from the fresh berries. An agreeable
change may ive made by making a sauce
of crushed and sweetened berries and
pouring It over vanilla ice cream.
They Are Nearly as Common as
Trains —Are the Feet Less Sen
sitive Than of Yore ?
CHAT women have gone bark to high,
in some instance® to highest, heeled
shoes is a fact evident to all who
note the ways of fashion lead
High heels in the house are the rule
rather than the exception. High heels on
the afternoon promenand# are seen nearly
as commonly as trains, while for evening:
use the elevated, heel Is an almost indis
pensable badge of fashion.
Woman's morning and golfing boots,
even, are made with military heels an
eighth of an inch taller than thope .worn
last season. Rubbers have to conform to
the increased height of shoe heels. Thus
the fancy for being higher up in the world
has affected all the footwear of wo
Elevated shoes and lengthened trains:
Is it to these additions that we owe the
declaration that women are becoming
High heels appear even on certain flexi
ble little afternoon ties of glased tan kid
with straight tips and narrow, rounding
toes. It is anticipated that there will be
a demand for these dainty foot coverings
that represent a medium in dress between
heaCy calfskin and black patent leather.
The navy blue foulard silk gown, the al
most staple summer afternoon gown,
probably is responsible for tho creation of
just this class in shoes. Women wanted
something correspondingly thin and plia
Navy or Yale blue lisle thread or silk
stockings. woven so loosely that they are
railed 'Tare," lire In choicer style with
these pretty brown shoe* with high heels
and the Yale or navy blue foulard than
tan stockings of any description.
There Is every indication that Russia
calf low shoes will he worn during sum
mer mornings, almost to the exclusion of
Mack, which look warm In the sunlight
to us, now that we are accustomed to the
appearance of the golden brown leather.
Certainly, the calfskin shoes are more
comfortable than any bla* k ones when
worn on the hot pavements
Our low shoes and golf boots for the sea
son are done from a rich yellowish brown
color, the ruddy hue of a new evening
dress case Soles are fairly thick and ex
tended. Toes are inclined to round, being
lef«s extreme than those of last year with
out at all approaching the toothpick va
riety. Many women think them more sen
sible than the "common-sense" sort Itself,
because extreme.
They are cut !o*er at the l a k and
than formally; aa miw h as a (quarter of an
Inch on **oine stylea. We made mo vnucn
complaint year about the sharp sides
and becks of our tan and bla'k ties that
the manufacturery beard our criea and
good-naturedly cut all our shoe* down
this year.
Incidentally, by the way, if we dealt last
summer with a sympathetic shoe man, he
had the hurtful height lowered for u»
there and then.
A most Important change In the new
tools, aa well ua *'s, i* |„ ,he flaitt>iiln«
ef the toe. It 1. limp on the leather at
the extreme Recall lest see son >
"e*K-»h«n»Hl" point, ami picture how this
wouM Ifxjk If »lth your thumb you could
make a dimple on the tup of the
"Women I ke to have their fwt look flu*
when they kjuih' down at them,' n.ill the
! ead of a ronsenatlve shoe deportment
I suppnee tl*t it Is the lonic mirror which
!* chl'-fly re.«i»,nsU>ie for Ihe new flat toe.
In profile, with the eKK-ehapel toe, a l oot
aj-iwir.-d to turn up
"Ttie flut toe on a walking boot Is tho
choicest yet produced."
I told the shoe i-*pert that the womt-n
seem to make their own fashions In foot
wear, then. To whk-h he rwpl'.-d with <l.f
er.-nce and s..m.- emphasis th.n It was
"a tjout WJ."
The j*>lntel tip, either from talent leath
er or kid, is out of date. Women c<»n
--*! i<»r St u,n fanciful for 'ommon ur-»« ~nd
too nnlrky for g»>oil style. Though. b> .%
> jtlous c< >n trad lotion. It 'om* h on our
''"aif g''lf Is'wits, n«"#t as an added
piece of leather, but in the shape of orna
mental punctures. These tiny hoi**s are
repeated ov<t *»ur golf tkK>ts in line.* wlifr
ever the J<>inings come
Golf boota. which sre higher than ordi
nary t»oots, nor yet of the altitude of the
decease.! bicycle variety, also are brave
with a strcLp and g wKI-sized brasi but kie
near the top.
These by way of ->rfwimerit, and in line
with the tendency to trim our irarments,
which are usually severe, xx the shirt
waist and the sailor hat. Tea. and the
tailor-made sk'rt with i:» bo* and other
The departed b»oy le boot I mentioned.
"We have not a 'ioien pair* in the »tor<\' -
said m> noiuwrvative dealer. "The hiryrie
riders who have not developed into *oif
player* wear low shoea altogether. elth.*r
tan or Ula^k."
Abrjut tUai'k boots of or Unary heijtht,
it may he well to call attention to the
"stay ' which comes now on the ba/ k. and
extunda from the lop of the heel {dec,, to
th« hei<rht of tho upper. It Is put on aj an
effort to counteriK-t t)>e ravages of the
stentle dress braid. And it is fairly suc
cessful. The braid manufacturer* having
succeeded In producing one or two aoits
that lajit a time, soraethin* in the
fc£igUlx>rhood hu* to £ive way.
The Newest Qolf Coat, and Capo.
It Is portions of the shoes. An! so *«.
rlou."«ly do ConM lent lout) t«v>t merchant*
take this wear an-i tear that an effort will
be rmule next year to popularise laced
shoes, rather thun those which button.
Then the laelngs, and not the shoe fronti,
will have to take. the punishment. There
is no other ways of relnforcln* the fronts
of txvots, though, a* ha» been paid, the
backs now have extra pieces, which or#
replaced or removed at need.
Patent leather continues to be the dress
leather for fashionable feminine as well
us masculine wear. Hoots are made with
the vamps of It, the tops of dull black
kid. Ties from it with hlifh heels are
afternoon full dress for the foot. And
evening slippers, whether In "opera"
shape or with the buckle and wtd#
tonirue, nre most popularly made from
patent leather. Despite Its discomfort,
nothing takes the place of patent leather
Just yet.
Though T know from good authority
that a manufacturer Is experimenting
with a material which he calls "patent
kid." Indeed, he has been at work for
two years trying to find a material ai
handsome as patent leather without its
objectionable qualities. Next fall prob
ably will see the new kid done Into ac
cepted shapes, and we may hope to hava
dress shoes aa comfortable as the* art
No special call for white low ties dur
ing the summer is anticipated, though
a few undoubtedly will be worn, at usual.
Evening slipper* almost without ex
cept !on are fleoorated with sliver, gilt of
rhlnestone buckles, often of large site.
And the shoe man must exercise great
ca rti to select surh example* of the
Jeweler's art as shall not tear lingerie.
An excellent pair of round buckles,
somewhat larger than ten-cent piece*
rhlnestone set. sells for 53.&0.
l*eas and less do the fashionable shoa
dealers to keep in etook aovtW
ties in women's boots and shoes. "When
a woman wants something out of th#
ordinary," said a dealer, "ihe wants It
so different from what any other woman
would care for that It would ruin a
merchant to attempt to forestall her fan
ry. We can make up anything In ten
days, sometimes less."
White satin slippers, tintrimmed, are
kept r» n hand for Immediate use. On#
buys for decoration an ornament which
is a stiffened piece securing four seta of
loops of white satin. A pearl or rhlne
stone buckle in at the renter.
Special points in spring and summer
shoes for women are these:
Higher military heels on ordinary boot*
and ties; flattened toes, shortened side*
and bark on ties, with high Quins*
heels, if you want to be in extreme of
fashion, whenever not In strictly morn
ing, promenade or athletic dress.
Difference Between Fashionable Im
defy lu Knee lau«l and America.
The radical difference between Kngilsl|
and American f tehlonable life Ilea with!
the men The women are similar to th one
who occupy th*- same social poaition ove#
bcr»> In fact, they outherod Herod In fine
laiy sm" and uj*-<opiate, occupations.
With the men It Is entirely dlfTerfrtt. aW*
ing to thHr methods of living nod the
f«■ t that in America there I* practically
n<» leisure Ha**- nine-tenths of th« "fash
lonablea" ere hard-working busings* men.
who sue obliged to conform to hours and
while n Kngiand <»nly men *>f
leisure attempt to k..,<p up the f**hl<nia*l»
pa e. Aa they aro fr**»* at all tlmee of the
year to K ivo themsclv** up to th*> ]»ureull
of pleasure, their favorite i«*»tJmca naU
urally form the ha hits of srfxHety.
"Th" American a»|ety man is th# grufc
and the Englishman 1* the butterfly," ra»
marked an Amerl.tui girl who h*ji live!
several yeara In England. "In my
there Is no r<»mparieon Mween the men
Of that *pecie« in the two countrlea Br
this I m»»an simply the worldlings ~U*
cl.ikm who *■ '-hlef aim In life s*ems to be
t-» exist fashli umbly. Undoubtedly, takM
aa « whole, A marl con men are inferior (a
n«»ne. Un l ar#« sup» rior to moat, But H|
what called the 'smart set* ih#*re is rer
tainly a n *>< »-able dtfTere nc* whftth Is n**
In favor of - ir countrymen NV>t that this
riti Ism applie to ail, but It Ih a rale
that Is proved t»y the exceptions. **
A straw wM h '-triphasics the way thg
win-j l>lows In this direction is the com*
pletely oppoalre manner In ahlch the fash
ion,i ■ 4'* men of the tw«» countries *ien4
ounlry t h<- icr«-at thing i» t » get o*it "f
town 'o ride, play golf and indulge la
other fashionable Tbls meal*
r f , Tirne. that during the w»efc the
"gilded youth" ha ve busy In COtiflfle
Ing y- and Wa 1 street nfflnea. sad
have had no time f>tr surii pleasure*,
the o *r 1 • of «he t *>an It is
"»>: v i"- The bualnes« fit the week
sH s of country amusements snl 5la f ar«
Ays and Hun (lays are the day* that thes#
fav'>rltea *>t fortune select to so tip t®
• an to o« ape the t»»di«im of an Idle Sun*
'ay In the co-iritry. They •. !T their clobf
an<i go to the play 'n Saturday iifbtg
In England no one that any V***
teni«f of >*\rin In society is se*n In tosrd
after Augunt *2, the shrating seaaon. TMi.;
Ih iu r fh« manv fashionable f«d| :ts thai
govern Var.Hy Pair N<»t to own or to b*
-ki-d to a rr»'» ;r or country on
date argu*a at not of
the elect. liirt all datea hwre are alika t&
the fashionable oualneae man. who taIMS
his l»rit*f holiday when hia affairs jsurmiW
A f«-w w« ka at Newport In
a*i 1 several daye now ind again as a
guest at some house party In th<» autumn
are his onJy op; ortuijtles to play th#
foundry "guntleman."

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