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PAGES 5 TO 8 VOL. Ill, 1NO. 277. Ellen ?sborrVs Fashion Letter New York.?It's odd. if von think of it, that December should be tlie bud's month?that the death of the old year should herald the beginning-of the new life of the young girl. Hut so it lias been for generations of buds and blossoms. From the first of December to the first of January the older women step back, postpone their entertainments and hold themselves in readiness to welcome the buds, that find in the chill of early winter the at? mosphere to coax their flowering. The old-fashioned crush with its crowds of people trampling each other under foot as they tried to dance in a room not a quarter big enough, and with ten times too many poor flowers wilting, and a big band of music, and fifty or a hundred carriages tangled up outside?that blare of trumpets gave place to the simple debutante's tea. as the tea in its turn is now giving place to the more formal reception or mu sicale. ^ Whether or not a bride is always beautiful at her wedding, a bud is al? ways pretty at her coming out. stand? ing beside her mother and her mother's friends, wearing her white dress, hold? ing her roses or chrysanthemums and surrounded by her court of other buds ?young girls whose debut has preceded hers by not more than a week, maybe. They arc shy girls who all summer have dreaded the ordeal and to whom not a pyramid of bouquets could be compensation, and then' are girls al? most too composed; prepared to enter society not with the tentative step and slow advance of one who feels an un? accustomed way, but by a single eonfi tunic overdress edged also with quill? ing. A bertha of white chiffon, blue spotted, is drawn about the shoulders and ties ou the bust in a spreading bow. Some of the debutantes' evening dresses are ail white chiffon puffed and tied up with white ribbons. One such, very youthful in effect and dainty has the bodice, which blouses slightly. I tiffed bayadere-wise from the waist to the decolletuge, while a graceful bertha arrangement is drawn -11)0111 the shoulders. Another slightly more elaborate but still girlish is of n soft white Liberty Mitin with a narrow ruflle r.t the hem and tlnee bands of chenille embroidery passing riblionlike around the skirt and finishing in front with true lovers' knots and ends. The low bodice blouses somewhat and- the V shaped front is filled with lnca and chenille. One of the earliest debuts will be that of a girl who bus the burden on her shoulders for keeping up certain fam? ily traditions, her mother and grnnd mother having both been famous belles. Following- the modern idea which makes white cloth and white satin appropriate for grandmothers, while sweet 16 may appear quaintly di eked in black velvet and jewels, the coming out dress, now in the modiste's hands, will be of '-bite lace, but of lace so softened by draping over mousseline de soie as to lose its aggressive air of too great richness. The design of I In costume is of the utmost simplicity round waist, belt finish and round de? collete neck, witli a touch or two id Pink velvet for color. dent and intuitive leap; but alike to brave and to timid the coming out is a "looking over by the pack"?an assort? ment of the belles who will reign as beauties and as favorites and of the '^^lice little things who aren't counted. As a looking over, it is prepared for with circumspection. The toilettes of many debutantes arc chosen abroad with as much care as a bride's trousseau, siucc the French give more thought than other people to the arraying of the young girl. This au? tumn, however, a larger proportion than usual are being made in New York, patriotism being fashionable. For an evening occasion whit* is a) most invariably chosen and for an afler tioon some Jig-lit color. The after? noon is preferred by many people as - offering the quieter, less ostentatious ?way of introducing a new little girl to her mother's circle. Some of the wealthy girls in New York have been presented on their coming out to less than 50 of the family intimates?two or three to receive with the mother, two or three to look after the tea?only a couple of servants showing. The more public appearances have come later with appropriate gorgeousness. Some girls have been brought out at Newport in the summer or early autumn to es? cape a city function. At an autumn tea a few weeks ago in a country colony the young girl ?who was honored wore pale yellow taf fivta that set off admirably her brilliant brunette coloring and made her sparkle like topaz in the dim old parlors. Fold; of white chiffon wore drawn across the bust and back, shirred chiffon filled in the gimp neck antl transparent chif? fon made the long sleeves. The belt antl rosette were of white velvet; n the middle of the rosette was a topaz set in gold. The skirt was trimmed only witli very narrow silk and chiffon ruffles. By way of contrast to the yellow tones n handful of deep red roses was car tied. But nearly all the coming out dTesses are yet in preparation. One that looks as If it might be meant for some such dainty use is of white taffeta embroid? ered with blue chenille moons. The skirt has an odd quilling of blue rib FALL WRAPS. A dress whose first appearance will be made at a Thanksgiving gathering which is to mark informally the com? ing out of a pretty Brooklyn-girl is of white silk, with a deep flounce of white chiffon partly covering the skirt. The chiffon flounce itself is finished with three or four chiffon ruches, full, nar? row and half hidden by a lace flounce caught to the same heading. The bodice is of lace and chiffon over silk, with a'band of chenille-embroidered silk at the neck. The girl for whose debut a dance is given chooses for it the most diaphan? ous of robes. For the younger set this winter the favored ball dresses will be of tissue over tissue; ull white or deli? cate colors peeping out through mists of other colors. One such costume just imported has a skirt of white silk, and over this one of gauzy net twinkling with silver sequins, and over this a gauze so airy as to be nothing more thnn cobweb. The low bodice with its short sleeves combines the same ma? terials. "Nowadays girls come out so much older than they used." said a woman who is looking forward to the blossom ing of her own bud. a girl of 19 or thereabouts. "I came out at 15. and mv sister was quite a grown-up young lady at 14; but then that was in New Or? leans. In these times girls stay in the schoolroom till they're 20. And it's o good scheme if they're to marry so much older." This lady's daughter is no older at 19 than some girls of the old regime must have been at 15. and she will look very young and very much of a begin ner in the somewhat quaint dress that has been planned for her of white cloth with gimp neck of white chif? fon and lattice work of white chenille covering the bodice. The skirt is to have a flounce of white accordion plaited chiffon of a moderate width in front, but rounding up to the waist be? hind, and edged about with chenille The sleeves will be long, close and chenille trimmed. An afternoon early in December has been chosen, nnd while people are nibbling their biscuit or dawdling with their teaspoons a new society aspirant will be launched most boa at the hem and Is draped with a unobtrusively. ELLEN OSBORN. NEWPORT NEWS, VA., SUNDAY, NOVEMBER 20, 1898. CHOOSING BRIDESMAIDS. Pronpectlre Briden Should Select GirlalVholValk Well with U?ce f nlly-Poined Ileuda. "In selecting' bridesmaids," said she of the emerald and diamond ring to the New York Commercial Advertiser writer, "it is not beauty that counts so tuur^l" Z'L "tyi*: and carriage, Most overseer with shovels and tied into the, bush. Nobody was ever hanged for the crime, because some 40 of them were in it?and that would have been rather a ] large consignment to condemn, even J in the far east, where human life is so cheap. There nre 250.000 Chinese in Bang? kok alone, and .they do not appeal to t one's cordial emotions?very much the contrary. And should this catch the bitdes take a great^^ of_prjde in j eye of a.ny;Jutending .yij".tgrj^^foe,fay them to show to the best advantage, j wisdom of venturing to spend anight It is very important that a brides- ! maid should walk well. The wedding | marches are more suited to grand opera : stages than church aisles, and while Elsa's or Lucia's attendants can walk : in gracefully to such music, the most . graceful of girls is apt to sway and fill- i tcr trying to keep time and step with the same strains. I've watched bridal processions and I've seen radiantly pretty girls lose all effect of their good looks by a hobbling walk. A brides? maid should glitle, not limp or hop. The beauty of a faultless frock and the stateliness of a pict tire hat vanish when the wearer is awkward and obviously ill at ease. The bride herself is helped by her long train, her drooping head and the leaning on her father's arm be? fore and on her husband's after the cer? emony, but the bridesmaid wears a short gown, carries her bead erect, walks up and down beside another girl, and so has her own grace alone to depend upon. A girl who walks well, whose head is well-po\sed on her shoul? ders and whose hair arranges well makes a good appearance as a brides? maid, and?-well, all mine are like that." on a Chinese junk without so much as a revolver to defend himself with. Oc? casionally a European is discovered by the marine police lloating on the wa? ter with Iiis throat cut. In such a case it is highly probable that he had been foolhardy, as 1 was. But different peo? ple are born to different ends, and tlie Chinese contempt of the European is frequently justified by facts. BANKING IN SWITZERLAND. TALLEST IN THE MORNING. COWARDLY SPANIARDS. The Dlnplcablc Conduct of the Via caya'a Crew a< the Mattle of Santiago. The contrast between the two nation stands out very clearly in connection with the Vi/.caya, says Ira Nelson llollis in the Atlantic. The torpedo boat Erics? son ran close alongside of her. and sent u small boat to take off all that wer-: alive of her crew. A few boats from the Iowa assisted. The Vizcaya was on tire fore and aft; the ammunition on board was exploding, and the guns that had been left loaded were going off one iiftei anotherin the intense heat, to say noth? ing of 1 he proximity of the shore. The position of the little craft has been de- j My Eventual Most People Have Shrnnli Half un Inch?How Men Uct Into the Army. "The singular fact that people are about half an inch taller in- the morning than they are in the afternoon has en? abled many a fellow to slip into the army," said an olliccr who has seen a m-od deal of recruiting service. "Time and again when the examinations were being conducted at a tolerably early hour men have been passed in my pres? ence who were barely up to the regula? tion height, in fact, they were under it a shade, and the thickness of a card? board would have resulted in throwing them out. I am perfectly confident that if these same men had been re n.easured just before taps in the. even? ing they would have fallen so far short that they would never by any possibil? ity have been aecepetd. I have heard it said that a man can put nearly an inch in his height by staying in bed for a conidc of days and mea-while tak? ing several hot baths, but I have never seen the thing tried. The average morn? ing and evening variation I have found hy a good deal of experimcntine on nivsclf and others '?> be a little less than It Ordinarily Tnkea Hut Fifteen Min? uten to .Mule- n Depu.it If Von Are toviiy. Some Swiss methods are sufficiently iintiquated, according to our standards. For instance, it requires 15 minutes in which to make a deposit at. a bank, says the Chicago Record. i i. jjgttorn11h" git 'cms htrirmr'. ami y c-m_ ??mull -it-'?-~ ??.?- . .--.Krt.v. ?,.tcs=: or is eL^ected to sit quietly and culli- ] vate a spirit of patience while the ma? chinery is getting under way. A customer who wishes to make a de? posit goes to u window and hands in bis money, together with a memorandum of the amount. The employe behind the railing counts the money and prepares u receipt for it, adding his signature by way of preliminary. Then a small boy till;.-?? this receipt upstairs and submits it to an otlicial, who studies it and then ponders for a while as to whether it will be safe to take the money. If lie decides that the bank can undertake the risk he passes the receipt to another man. who pre? pares a duplicate slip ami makes several entries, ami finally signs his mi. Then, as soon as another man lias ex? amined the receipt and added his name, it is taken downstairs and handed to the depositor. There is one sat isfact ion ?the money is thoroughly deposijed. An American residing in Zurich went to the bank the other day with a check v. hielt had been given to him by a busi? ness mail in a large town near by. lie handed in the check, and St) minute-! later received his money, less 14 cents charges. The American was well known a; the bank, having been a depositor for about two years. lie had indorsed the check. A busy and nervous Chicago man would have torn down the railing be? fore the till minutes expired. FRENCH FEMININE FENCERS. Chnnce lor Choice. "There are several routes for the canal across the Isthmus of Panama, i understand." "Yes, Uncle Sam can take his pick scribed as perilous in the extreme. Our and then shovel his way across."?N. V men risked their lives repeatedly t help their fallen enemy; but no sooner 1 were the Spaniards transferred to the I deck of the Ericsson than they urged : immediate withdrawal without regard i to their comrades who had been left ! behind. To the honor of our navy, j Lieut. Ushur remained until every lie- i ing being had been rescued from the j burning ship. A similar scene was en? acted around the two torpedo boat de- ? btroycrs. It was a case of mad panic j on the one side, and of perfect coolness I on the other. One officer of the Viz? caya afterward stated on board the! Iowa that they were obliged to (dose 1 be ! gun ports on the disengaged side of the ship, to prevent the men from jumping overboard rather than face the Ameri? can gun fire. CRIMES OF COOLIES. The l.ow-I.tve;! Monicola Are n? Can nlnsr us l-'oxet, and .in Con* ardly it* Wolves. They are a queer crowd, these coolies, whether on land or sea, says the Lud? gute Magazine. Cunning as foxes and cowardly as wolves, they resemble the pariah dogs of their own "itics in point of inability to hunt any prey save in packs. 1 heard of an instance where a gang of them, employed as navvies in the cuttinir of a railway, killed their Journal. Quite I.lkelr. IT? ? Handsome woman, that Mnj. Dockl's wife; but what loud gowns she wears! She?I suppose because the major ii so shockingly deaf, yon know.?Har? lem Life. Johnny'* Mlmnke. "Well, Johnny, do you feel proud of being an uncle?" "No, 'cause I ain't no uncle." "Why not?" " 'Cause I'm an aunt. The new baby's a girl."?Cincinnati Enquirer. Smnrt Young; Jinn. "Now, liarry," asked the teacher of the juvenile class, "what is the meal we eat in the morning called?" "Oatmeal," was the little fellow's prompt reply.?Tit-Hits. Explained. i Piper?Say, Muggsy, wat's a statu I cpio, anyhow? Muggsby?Why. dttt's when you'w got de jay down an' are sittin' on him.? Philadelphia North American. A Mnde Awnkenlnit. Wife?John, I wish you would let me Juive $50 this morning. Husband?My dear, yen must have dreamed tha^ I married an heiress, tUdn't you??Iicmtoyille Commercial. There I. a l'im.l !>111 < y That the Wo nn 1>ui-1. of the Kejfeney May Me Revived. American women have never taken up fencing witli the enthusiasm shown by English und French women, and feminine duellists in our country will doubtless continue to choose tongues as weapons; but there have been wihl rumors that feminine skill with the foils, in France, wouid lead ton revival of the times of the regency, when bona fide duels between women were no un? common occurrence. Only a few weeks ago two fair Parisians, says the New York Sun, not averse to notoriety, arranged a meet? ing, but friends persuaded them to set? tle the quarrel and call the duel off, much to the regret of scandal lovers. Many French women nre expert fencers, and In London the fad has been encour? aged by the sweilest set. A really swag? ger feminine duel would be a new sen? sation in society. It would be roman? tic and becoming, for nothing shows off the figure to such advantage as fenc? ing. Then the possibilities in dueling costumes are most enticing. By all means, let us light duels. The results need be no more serious than in modern "honorableencounters" I between French deputies; and Hie af? fairs would be chic and picturesque in I the extreme. But in the feminine duel the. audience must not be limited to sec? onds and physicians. One should make a social function of it, and relieve I he tedium of afternoon teas and recep? tions. There would lie but one objec? tion to the new fad. Its advertising possibilities are so superb that the dramatic profession would rush into it with mad fervor, and the fad, instead of the combatants, would be run into the fc-round. PAGES 5 T 3 8 P RlP,TrS,NGLE COPY TWO CENT l it IV '^QNEWEEK, TEN CENTS 2) - SUM -x \ RIGHT WAY TO TAKE & A BATH ,* Stationary Bath Tubs Are by No Means Absolutely Neces sary What It Is to Be Clean. - 0<i|iyrl(tht, 1898 '.'S. and tlx. I . U reeks' Most of us fail to 11 first principles of balhi:i und Kornaus as nation titan we tlo. ami p, i ha sibility for t Iiis lies with bat lit lib. Tho tnli ina\ als:? Im- ac conntablc fur the fact that i ,-sl ,,r us ilon't know how to bathe. Ilooiirh the nice has been washing ;:' with llmlv or less assiduity sine- 15. r. Americans have conic in rc-nnl as a necessity the bathtub, with iI?> hot nr. 1 cold water faucets, iinb-ssii isal hand the needed bath is genera 11 \ indelinitc ly postponed. 'Phis was shown during I he wa r. when the volunteers?especially those at ramp Alger, where there were f,.u mutant Tin- I u reinovHijT dirt; the differ ic manner of using them, kish I,a Hi mlvocate would ieve thill one must perspire usly t.> washing, thus leav? ing tie- pures open in order to get all ' r! out of them. This is a mistaken ah a. because a normally active person perspires through the iluv from exer i-.-. which thus nerf.irnis all the func? tions ih,- steaniroom in a Turkish bath. Such a one requires no elaborate Ixilliing arrangements; In- only nectls !" wash ail over with snap and water "ml lo rub briskly olTwilb a towel. In Ho- I'nrkish bin liil?.,c i8 often too much rubbing. We can rub the skin for hoi,,., a,hI all the ? streams or poois?accustomed In Hie ' ' s'' luxurious bathtub, abandoned bathing' '"'I'1'' altogether and washed only I heir hands i '"" and faces. The pails anil tin wash | li'.ver basins did not appeal to them as a hcnltl means of washing in "the altogether." ' dead. lint there were other soldiers who I lf : used basin or pail once a day. and In taking a sponge bath kept as clean as they ever were in their lives. Some of I "'? them were cleaner, because in their ,m.V l': customary morning "dips" thev bad j ?" ''" never got really washed. Her, -mull particles will cone oil'. Il is a popular! ""i 'leu this skin is unclean,j ? skin c,,,,Msis of: many thBnf n ml il is easy to ruh off the | .-.kin as well as thai which is' a person wishes In l>c as clean as! iblc he evidently should bathe.' i dny. lor there is no intermission a- wearing off of the skin, and no pusses w ill,oni some oil appearing 1,<- surface. Igain the Turkish bath and tho There arc two sorts of bathing - for ? stationary bathtub t,-ii,l to engender pleasure and for cleanliness. The e mottest form of washing for pleasure is the cold morning plunge. This in: stantnneous method is a pleasant way of waking up the nerves some people prefer to lie in bed and allow Diem to wake up gradually, but il is not wash, ing. A pin or a whiplash used every morning would accomplish the same re bad habits, for the former is weaken? ing if taken offener Hum once a week an,! the linthtub is ?seldom used more frequently than that for the purpose* of taking a thorough wash with soup. W hen tin- ball, is taken there is an ac? cumulation of seven days' perspiration and dead skin on the surface of the body. A QUICK AND SENSIBLE BATH. suit, though not so agreeably. The pin prick would also be almost as cleans? ing as the momentary touch of the wa? ter that goes witli u morning dip. The Turkish and Russian Inn Iis arc not entirely bathing for pleasure; they make the body clean enough. 1ml use of them is a waste of lime and money because a person in goo,I health can keep the skin in proper condition and never go near a steam room. To spend several hours a week in being washed is indeed the excess of luxury, and such is a legitimate pleasure perhaps. The habitue of a Turkish bathhouse, however, contracts the dangerous opin? ion that lie needs steam heal and a man to rub him in order to get clean. This results in great personal discom? fort and often in a sadly unwashed condition when there arc no Turkish baths in tlx- neighborhood. In discussing bathing for cleanliness we must first know what it is "lo be clean." When one understands some? thing about the skin one will accept no excuse for nnclcanliness in n person living in a civilized community, for Hi : simplest means accomplish the most satisfactory results in cleansing the skin. Filth in body. like the universe of the ancients, consists of two things. Iis elements are oil and dead skin. As the snake, a human being sheds his skin once or twice a year, but he shuttles it off gradually. This old skin, together with the oily matter, known as per? spiration in polite society, decomposes if left on tlie body?then the skin is dirty. 1 The problem of keeping clean is simple enough?keep the surface of the body as free as may lie from the oil that comes through the pores every day und from the dead skin that is con? stantly forming. This may be done thoroughly only by the use of a combination of soap, water and friction. There are no two opin j ions regarding these, necessary con While, of course, the buthtub can bo' used fur tin- purpose of having a gen? uine w ash every morning, it is quite un? necessary ami a dangerous temptation; to '?dipping" without washing. There is also an objection to it on account of tin- health, be,-:,use when we use it! the feet always lunch I lie water before): (lie head docs. This causes the blood' to rush away from the feet instead oC from tin- bead, und is not a pleasant' way of w aking up the nerves, being aptf I,, produce headache. The mode of bathing for cleanliness; that is nearly ideal, us it, is most effect-1 ive, calls lor only u sponge and a cheap tin basin, used every morning. if everybody appreciated the fact that i here is within easy reach of the poorest person the complete meHins of performing us healthful and effective ablutions as the millionaire, there, would be a greater number of thor? oughly washed people in civilized com? munities. No excuse for an ill-smelling pei son wili pass, for no matter how limited a man's income or how incon? venient Iiis quarters, he can procure a tin pan or basin of water and a sponge. With these and a bar of soap he may take a thorough wash every morning ami In- could nut. do more toward get j ting himself clean if he had a marbla 1 bath tub. T he water for the bath should be as i obi as one can stand without being un? pleasantly shocked. Cold water used with snap is quite as cleansing as warm water and more refreshing. Some skins, however, are more sensi? tive than others, and very cold water should not be used on them. Standing in his pan of water a man. can go over his body very quiekly antt thoroughly with a sponge and soapand? afterwards a coarse towel, thus re? moving all the past day's uncleanliness. There is nothing else to be done. Tho most elaborate bathing does no more, only takes much longer. DANIEL OLSVEBTOS,