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THE REPUBLIC'. SATURDAY. AUGUST 4, 1900.
IMPORTED GOWNS SHOW MANY NEW AND PRETTY IDEAS A SIMPLE YET EFFECTIVE MODEL FOR A BODICE. FROAl FOREIGN MAKERS. Pattern Gowns Furnish a Num ber of New Ideas. WRITTEN" roil TUB SATURDAY REPUBLIC. Fashionable dressmakers and tailors al ways guard as secrets what the "next fctylcs" will 5)e. therefore when one Is per mitted a peep at modes in advance olio should be properly appreciative. The- word "imported" has n charm for every woman. As a matter of fact, many of the imported gowns that one sees from timo to time have a very dowdy look. This is not because they aro imported, but be cause, many women are foolish enough to take almost anything that bears the magic stamp. The American dressmaker many times makes a dozen improvements upon Iter imported pattern gowns. Of course, there are some of the most beautiful cf costumes sent us from London and Paris, and the foreign dressmakers have many original ideas that can bo copied and carried out at home at a much lower figure than one will pay for them in tho "imported." A bunch of dear little gowns that are to como "next" aro illustrated on this page. The novelties in cuts and trimmings can easily be gathered without description. I am told that the early fall gowns will have many softening touches of velvet, and that the picturesque half sleeve with full under eleevo will occur in light weight wools. While tho coming styles aro interesting and it is well for ono to begin to take notes, tho present fashions will remain un changed for a month or two, and there are many little odds and ends of styles that one may care to pick up at once. Somewhat dressy, thin frocks' to finish tho "warm weather with are made of plain colorud lawns. Gray unit a pinkish purple that la between old rose and violet are the shades found in the prettiest gowns. Tho most effective trimming consists of serpentine bands of he-ivy cream or ecru lace. A fetching model in a pink-violet lawn has the entire bodice and elbow sleevs run in tucks a tuurth of an inch wide. The front and tides or tho skirt are lucked tu correspond Tor a depth that reaches tho knee. Two waving lines of lace are put around the bottom ol tho skirt above the hem. The sleeves are finished at the elbow with a flat band of lace. Tha neck is cut lound and outlined with the lace. The belt is of lace, with a knot of black, velvet. The hat to be worn with this gown is of black lace straw with a drapery and rosettes of black moussellne do ioie. Beneath tho brim toward tho back there ure closely massed a number of pink roses. This tips the hat a trine to one side. Tho nicest foundation for a frock of this sort is batiste in the same shade, the petti coat trimmed with several rows of pleating, though the gown may be entirely unlined and worn over pretty white lawn petticoat and corset-cover. It is none too late in the season to make up gowns of tho sort re ferred to. because, wnen the warm weather Is over they make the nicest sort of indoor towns for tall evenings. Blue and pink lawns, with little embroid ered dots in white or black form some girl lth dresses. With white chip hats trimmed with black velvet ribbons and pink rosea they are suitable for any occasion. Fine lawns with clear black uud whito stripes make charming dresses. A girl with very original ideas has Just made for her self a black and white lawn. The skirt has three rather narrow shaped or circular llounces piped with pink lawn. Tho bodice Is seamless at tho back. The fronta have two strips about an inch and a halt wide each, cut out at each side. This leaves a strip of the lawn straight down the front and one at each side of the same width as the cut out pieces. These lawn pieces, that go from neck to belt, are lined and piped with the pink Itwn. Under them is a pink blouse of pink lawn, on which nro embroidered si lie dots in black, the dots far apart. There is a trtock of pale pink lawn. The plain sleeves are finished at tho wrist bv a cir cular cuff faced with pink. The girdle is of Mack velvet ribbon. Another new dress is of cream white batiste with a narrow yellow stripe. This lias a skirt cut up in deep, square slashes, showing fan p'.eatlngs of yellow lawn set In. The plain bodice is slashed below the bust to show a yellow-pleated blouse. Tho elbow sleeves are cut in square slashes, showing a pleated frill beneath. The high collar Is of white moussollne do sole. Thero is a scurf of the white silk gauze about tho waist, tdrawn through a heavy gold slide. The ends of tho scarf are puckered up like a rosette. And, by the by, the girl who will wear this gown has a heavy, round gold bracelet that the allps over her hand. The elbow sleeve has brought back tho bracelet, and the fashionable one is the round and heavy ono the heavier tho better. It is Just the height of the season for white pique and duck suits. Their tailor-made air makes them just the thing for practical wear. The newest wrinkle is to wear with them silk blouse fronts of blue or red doited with white. The trimming of the hat matches the blouse. MARY UAXD1'. THERE ARE MANY PLEATINGS. A Popular Si vie of Trimming That Is of Ancient Origin. Accordion pleating, so much In voguo and likely to be for a season or two, is literally centuries old. Statues carved In tho rtlgn or Egyptian ICings who ruled 4,000 years before tho Christian lira show skirts of robes pleated in this fashion. But Just what the process was is unknown to-day. in fact, accordion pleating has been used more or less in modern times over slnco the days of Queen Elizabeth, it was not then a popular dress trimming, however, for the operation of making it was too tedious and expensive, as each pleat was laid and ironed separately. About 1SG0 this pleating began to be largely used. However, there is a satisfactory process in use at present, and nothing lends Itself moro attractively to fluffy gowns than ac cordion pleating, which is even more par ticularly adaptable to the charms of neck wear. It would seem that colored linen frocks aro tha mania of the moment, and in their newest form, as seen on tho esplanade of a fashionable resort, are red that dull, rich red, so artistic and becoming. The trim ming is stitched black taffeta, with a touch of coarso cream guipure on the bodice. A white linen bolero costume has a sash of chine ribbon of white patterned by palo green and mauve and black. Another linen which attracted attention this sum mer was of pale yellow, stitched with black on the bolero and skirt, and com pleted with an underbodice of embroidered batiste belted in by a whito chine sash, flowered with pink and pale green foliage, and showing a black satin border. Yachting has of late years become one of the favorite pastimes or the French women, and they have adopted for it a sort of seml naval costume, which is truly fetching, writes a correspondent to the New York KTrjiuao. Tho skirt or this coitume la In-. variably plain and round. A favorite gar niture is a broad band surrounding tho hem. of stamped-out linen, blue or red, appliqued or incrusted. In the latter case the material of the skirt itself Is stamped out, and the colored band only forms the lining. The seams of tho gores are frequently piped in color. The bodice is either of the blouse type, simply fixed by a leather girdle at the waist, or of he jacket order over a sailor shirt showing horizontal stripes of color. The colored piping of tho skirt Is generally re peated in tho seams of tho Jacket. The headwear Is a white cap similar in form to that of naial otticers. For chilly or rough weather there is in reserve a second cos tume of navy serge, trimmed with white braid, but varying little in point of make from that just described. In English yachting costumes thero is a notable taste for red. and one of the smart est gowns on this order is made of light red serge embellished with lines of stitching. Tho short bolero is laid in box pleats, whica aro stitched on the edges, and over the broad, square sailor collar is laid an em broidered collar of grass lawn. Tho vest Is of wliite cloth strapped with black taffeta, which also makes the broad, draped girdle. A sailor knot of white holds the jacket to gether below tho collar. There is already a prediction that slocvea are to bo larger. While they are not large, thero is a noticeable absence of the skin tight tendency even in the recently com pleted costumes, and from the elbow to tho s-houlder the inclination is for easy grace, while from the elbow to the wrist the ten dency is toward llulllness. There is a rumor that the mutton leg is to lead in popularity. As a guide to future modes the present trend of fashion always has some bearing. And as the Corday, the pompadour or Jardi niere styles, showing many flowered fab rics, with round, full skirts, and a variety of waist forms, are the gowns of the mo ment in Paris, these airy costumes of mus lins and mulls are the Indices of next win ter's ball gowns. They all show a marked tendency toward low necks, and then there are berthas which fold closely over the shoulders, giving a delicious, fresh appear ance to theso dainty creations. K0W TO KEEP GOLD FISH. Some Practical Pointers Regarding Health of Finny Pets. I Gold fish aro easily kept alive and , healthy for many years If one only knows I now to do it. Gold ash, says an expert. "should never bo kept In the so-called globe, or circular aquariums. Constantly swimming around the vessel, they exhaust themselves and die. sometimes after a couple of days. Square aquariums are best, and tho vessel must be properly filled with gravel and aquatic plants, tho more plants me ueuer. "Furthermore, tha fish should never be kept in running water, and the water should never bo changed more than twice a year provided, of course, the aquarium Is properly constructed and has the neces sary amount of gravel, aquatic plants and the like. If this bo tho case, the carbonic acid gas exhaled by tho fish is inhaled by the plants in the water, and the oxvgen given out by the plants is breathed by the llsh, thus producing an equalization that keeps the aquarium in a healthv condition and obviates tho necessity of changing the water. "When it Is necessary to change tho water it should be done in a warm room, and the fresh water must not be of lower temperature. In changing the water the fish might easily catch cold, a thing to be avoided. "There should be a number of tadpoles in every aquarium. They not only eat the waste material, but they form an Interest ing subject of observation when changing from tadpolo into frog." SMART BELTS AND SASHES. Modish. Articles of the Late-Sum-nier Toilet. Gowns of transparent materials as well as gowns of wash fabrics arc more fashlon- Jllllrt tllto .'Ann .l.r... I,.... 1 ai. .-. w.u j m ciiun iiaa ueen me case ior many seasons, and, oddly enough. In many respects tho fashions resemble closely those In voguo in the days when everybody did wear thin frocks in hot weather. The manufacturers of all these materials for onco have been fortunato enough to meet tho popular taste and have, consequently, provided a seemingly endless variety of designs and colorings. It is rather smarter to uso materials that have llttlo or no stif fening. In order to carry out the looso clinging effects, but this does not by any means condemn the ubo of heavier ma terials such as duck or linen or gauzes that have a wiry thread through them, says Harpers Bazar. When these latter aro used a softening effect is sought in the trimming. The smartest of all gowns are those that tiro noticeable from their simplicity and their almost severe line3. In maiiv ways they are a delusion and a snare, because they look as though they were verv easily made and easily llttcd. In reality thev 11PPO mnf oflf.,ftil Mttlr... .l.-.l- .... it..' being secured by much careful work. The pnly plainness abotu these gowns is the long lines that now are absolutely neces sary, when to be Ion? In the line running from bust to shoulder is the aim of a well-dressed woman. It ia not necessary In order to get the desired effect in a sum mer Kown to buy the most expensive ma terials. The question to be considered is whether the coloring and tho designs are good and whether the material will lend 1 if e. f tt0 ,th? c?rrS:t dmpinfr or to the cut Jl .Vs mslrea; s ca" ,,e ha(l In some of tho s lk and cotton materials that cost very little, especially at this time of the year, quite as well as in the more elaborate designs or the newer shades of coloring A proof of this was seen the other day. when at a garden party, that was preceded by a breakfast, the gown that attracted the most attention was made of black and white ha4 ste "n " very tiny polka dot of white The skirt was tucked to within a quarter' of a yard of the foot In a multitude of nar row side tucks and then flared out to its full width, finished only with rows of cir cular tucks. The waist, tight-fitting in the back, was buttoned at ono side in front with just a little Mousing and was cut away at the neck to show an unlined yoke and collar of white tucked chiffon The sleeves reached a little below the olbnw and wero thero finished with an overhang ing cuff of whito moussellne de sole to match the yoke. Tho belt was of black satin-finished clastic studde with nail htnds of steel and fastened with a pointed buckle of cut steel. The newest belts are those made of satln fimshed elastic, in either blnck or white They come in two widths, one nearly four inches and tho other about an inch wide T.hey are sometimes studded with nallheads of jet or steel, but are oftener quite plain. A handsome buckle is the most valuable part of tho belt. These buckles are of rhinestone or of cut jet and the workman ship is exquisite. They are not cheap, rath- ,t , , ,vj .4n...o. , v., uui. ii win uc pos sible before long, undoubtedly, to find some that will be less elaborate and, consequent ly, cheaper. All tho new gowns require belts or sashes which has created a demand for fancv rib bons of all sorts. Soft ribbons are the smartest, those of soft-finished taffeta, satin or p.eau de solo beiny the handsomest; the ground la plain with a brocaded figuro in color. A number of exquisite designs in black and wliite are shown, too, that are particularly attractive. A present and very popular uso of these sashes Is to provide them In light colors to wear with Mack or whito gowns. They are always finished with a knotted fringe tho color of the groundwork of the ribbon. AVhen ribbon belts aro worn without wishes they are pulled far down in front to give tho Iong waistcd look; it is considered a mistake to uso anything but plain ribbons for this pur pose and either black or white is better than a color. Tho sashes, by the way, are not tied exactly in the back, but quite at one side of tho back with ono high upstanding loop and two long ends that reach to tho hem of the skirt. Bolero and Eton packets are still exceed ingly popular. It is well to indulge In tho fancy without fusther dolay, for before an other six months they will undoubtedly no longer bo considered at all smart. At pres ent they are made in the most extraordinary materials and in very eccentric shapes. T0 START CONVERSATION. With a Good, Fresh Story the Tee May 13c Successfully Broken. "The preliminary stages of conversation offer the principal ditlleulty 'the dread of pilence mnki'S us mute.' " writes Mrs. Bur ton Kingrlnnd, In the August Indies' Home Journal. "The weather seems to have peren nial interest. Why may not one treasure a few bits of stories apropos of that much worn topic, to bo brought out upon occa sion? For instance, sonic ono speaks of the variability of the weather, whereupon ono might toll of the ladv, whoso phvsiclan ad vised for her chanso of climate: 'Why, Doe tor, you forget that I am a Xew York woman. I never have anything else!' was her rejoinder. At least, it Is better thnit mere acquiescence, and when people havo laughed together the ice is broken. It is possible to have at one's tongue's end some trilling things of interest on various sub- havo tho marriago annulled. Their ef forts, were, however, futile and, common sense at length prevailing, me pott and his royal bride wero iorgiven and taken into favor. Some six years since Princess Elizabeth a granddaughter of the Enipeior of. Aus tria, fixed her affections upon Baron Otto von Seefried, a young iniantiy Lieuten ant. Her relatives' efforts tu prevent the mesalliance were of no avail, ior one morning the lovers escaped to Genoa, where they were married. Another Aus trian royalty, the 1'riiicess Elvira, like wise contracted a runaway marriage by eloping with a Bnvanau Count, while the mother of the present tjueen ot Italy eloped Willi an artilleiy ollicer, who, on Hie union turning out unhappy, committed suicide. Some two years since a desperate t'ucl was fought between Lieutenant ticza do Mntaehicli and Prince 1'liilip of S.ixo-Co-burg, in which the latter was wounded. This encounter was tho outcome of the action taken by the Prince's wife, Prin cess Louise, eldest daughter ot the King ot the Belgians, who, driven to de.-pi ration by her hu.-baiiu's cruelty, had alter vainly appealing to her f.itner ior pioteiiiun, tluowu iii'isulf upon the honor of the Huu guiinn ollicer ot Hussars, with whom sho lied to Spain. An elopement that failed was that planned by tho Grand Duchess Olga, dstuyiiier of Nicholas 1 of Kussia, and Lieutenant Bar iatinskl. At the last niument the lover's courage failed and ho made a full confes sion. The Pilnccss was promptly man led to Prince Charles of Wurtemutir;, while tho tieaeheruus ollicer received such rapid pro motion as to attain the highest rank in the army belole he was 5'). Count Louis Batlhyany, who was shot in the market place of Buda-I'esth by tho imperial tioops for his complicity in tho rising of ISIS, might have escaped his tragic fato had he consented to desert his wife and family and elope with the Archduchess Maria, who was mauly in love with him. Bolted Sivlss I'illoiv Case. A pretty stylo of sofa pillow that is oc- age the right to ruminate where more beau tiful women fail to please. There are charms of mind which charms of the body cannot rival. Neither winsome youth nor beauty finds much of a show be side subtleties of the soul. Only after hours of discipline can one learn to control one's rashness of speech, pleased when people are tactless, learn to excuwj the hopelessly life-centered, selfish individuals with whom life's roadway is thronged. Hyprocrlsy Is a harsh term. It is applied to the tactics of the woman of the world. This Is unjust. Besides, hypocrisy is soon unveiled. Then the game is lost. Tact, sympathy, is not hypocrisy. THE EMPEROR'S MISSION. Francis Joseph Personally Carried Out His Dead Wife's Wishes. In that ancient house of Hapsburg-Lor-raine there still Is much to be admired, and the falling "descendant of the Caesars" commands the sentimental .sympathy of the civilized world. .On his 1 ist journey to Buda-Pcsth the old Empoior Francis Joseph was seen traveling in his royal saloon with a larcc pasteboard box tied by a broad, white ribbon. On his arrival he look it in his carriage, then up in his bedroom. In the morning, as early as 0 o'clock, his Victoria was at a side gate of the old Palacu of Hilda, and. to the sur prise of his aid de camp, his Majesty ex pressed his intention of starting by himself. I'nder his at'm was the mysterious, cumber some package. Nobody followed him, but the secret of his early trip Is now known. Francis Joseph, who constantly is rum maging among the ptipers left by his late Empress, found, lately, a note. In which s?he asked her favorite daughter, Marie Valerie, to look into a certain closet, where she would find a box containing her wedding dress. She was to take it to the Church of St. Matthew, at Hilda, where it was to be used as a vestment of grand ceremony. This errand Francis Joseph undertook to fulfill washed or papered over and will hardly show. Dry sawdust, heated on a clean tin in the oven is an excellent remedy for rubbing off mildew and other damp spots from metal and other polished goods. Varnished paint may be cleaned with tea. The tea may be made by boiling up old tea leaves in the proportion of a quarter of a pound of leaves to a pint of water. It is also go-jd for cleaning black furniture that has become dull and dirty. It should be used warm, but not too hot. Lamp glasses require to be bright, other wise the lamp cannot give a clear light. They should be polished each time the lamps are cleaned. Nothing is better lor this puropse than a uieee of newspaper very slightly damped, with which the glass must be well rubbed, and afterwards pol ished with a piece of dry newspaper. Pretty waste paper baskets which are easily made for summer, or for any time for that matter, are in separate pieces and tied together with ribbons. Th outside is colored with a pretty bright figured cotton of some kind, the inside linrd with a plain color in crepe paper to match a predom inating color in the cotton. There are four oblong sides and a square pirco Tor the bot tom made of cardboard, which are covered iii.iide and out in this way: the edses are bound with ribbon and holes are punched top and bottom, and th" basket 1 tied to gether with ribbons. These pretty addi tions to bedrooms are great conveniences. The groat need in private houses in tho ; guest chambers, as well as in hotel?. Is ai- ways a plaro to put seraDs. Tho constant ' companion of one woman who travels fre quently is a small basket into which to throw the odd and ends, for which no place is provided. It would seem hardly necessary to mention the fact that it Is unsafe to eat fruit with out either washing it carefully or else par ing it. except that so many persons imore the lurking danger. Everything that is to bo eaten uncooked should receive a most so prominent a place in the fashionable pro cession, there are very smart and equally fashionable gowns of white cloth, soft gray crepe de Chine, etc.. and ilght beautiful summer wools In shades of beige, cameo pink, daffodil, and mauve, as well as tho black and whito melanges. A lyric for Art Student. Every art student, and indeed every girl who has fixed her own "den." will ap preciate this new lyric by the Irrepressible Gellett Burgess: Oh, Denim has Color and Tone And Burlap has Texturo and Lino; Old Fish Nets are catchy. When looped up and patchy. And Gunny-sack Curtains are Fine! Oh, Charming the Hues that are shown In the Matting that comes around Tea; You can make an Art Couch Where your Callers may Slouch Just as Easv as E-isy can Be! The Turkish Effect has been Known To be easily got very Cheap With a little old Junk And Pillow and Trunk And a well-hidden Place where you Sleep! Have Yon u Ivlmouo? One woman has found summer comfort for 5S cents! How? Very readily. She pimply picked up a bit of a "bargain in the shape of a dressing sacque built a la kimono, and In this, with the two others for which she sent, sho lives and" has" her being as much of tha time as she passes in the particular part of her domain which she calls her very; own. Theso littlo jackets, worn with a light skirt or with a pretty petticoat,, are to bo had in all of tho pale shades of sheer lawn. A band of white lawn, deliciously clean ana crisp, is in the form of a bor der, ami is the only trimming. As all who have seen it agree, the collar formed of these turned-back bands is tho height ot artistic grace. Just now sheer lawn is our preference, though some are so devoted to China silk: as to choose It. As for the real Chinese LONDON AND PARIS DESIGNS FOR GOWNS FOR OUT-OF-DOORS WEAR. Jects but tho supply needs frequent renew al. There are moments when the embarrass ment of silence is relieved by the knowledge that nothing but the veriest commonplaces are expected. When a hostess ha paired her guests before a dinner and each man seeks the lady assigned to him, he usually says, I believe that 1 urn to have the pleas ure of taking you In to dinner,' and she lias but to bow and smile while accepting his arm, and may say in a voice of perfunctory politeness, "I am very glad.' It is usually the man who takes the initiative and the woman who bears the burden of the conversation." ROYAL ROMANCES. Princesses Who Have Eloped Like Many Less-Noted Women. Spain provides us with moro than one instance of a Princess of the royal blood having renounced her rights and position at tho call of love, says the Ixmtlon Tit Bits. The Infanta Elvira, daughter of Bon Carlos, left her homo at the bidding of a humpbacked and ill-favored Koman artist, than whom surely she could have chosen none more unlike the ideal gallant of romance. Piincess Isabella, the great-aunt of the present King of Spain, eloped with the Polish Count Gurowski. One dart night the Count repaired with a carriage to Eng hcin, near Paris, where his inamorata lived. Leaving her house by means or a rope ladder, she soon Joined him, and the couple escaped safely to this country, where they were married. Alas! the glamor soon faded, for, after awhile, the pair quarreled and a separation ultlmatelv ensued. Even more romantic was the elopement of her sister, tho Princess Josephine. A cer tain Senor Itende. a poet of promise and a Journalist, attached to a Havana paper, asked a rich planter for his daughter's hand, with the result that he was ignominl ously shown the door. Furious at this treatment the young poet swore that ho would show the world his worth by marry ing a Princess. Quitting Cuba, he journeyed to Madrid, where, after years of want and suffering, he gained a reputation as a poet. At last his genius attracted the notice of tho Princess Josephine to whom he had dedi cated several or his effusions. The royal lady made his acquaintance and became enamoured with the poet. Her love was re turned; tho pair eloped, were married at Vailadolid. and escaped to Paris. On hear ing the news the Princess's family were aghast, and strovg by every means to cupying the attention of summer piazza workers is made of dotted muslin. A pat tern with dots about an inch apart Is most effective. Tho dots are worked over In wash silk In rown comprising three shades ot color, a shade to each row, giving the effect when finished of shaded stripes. A ruflle of plain muslin edged with a row of baby rib bon in each of the three shades edges the cover, which is slipped on over a pillow covered with silosia. Pink, green and yel low aro the favorito colors used, in dark, medium and light shades. CHARM OF THIRTY SUMMERS. An Observing Woman Says It Out does That of Eighteen. From tho Philadelphia Press. A crafty penswoman deliberately goes out of her way to flatter her sisters who have reached 30. Could any woman who has brushed by her 20s ask for a more su gary bit of comfort? "Give me a clever woman of 30 nnd I will back her any day against a pretty, inex perienced debutante of 20. It is little fem inine ways which appeal so IrresHtably to a man's heart. These ways are the result of careful, tactful practice, generally speak ing, the result of knowledge of the world that can only como after one has lived amongst men and women, after one has lived and been loved! La jeunc fille is to my mind most Irritating, and unattractive. Sho is so helplessly self-engrossed, so preju diced; she has still to learn such a vast amount, when first launching into society (though, of course, a clever mother can help her simple ingenuo enormously). Girls are as a rule taken from school much too soon; they should be allowed to finish their education by traveling abroad for a couple of years before they mix on equal terms with other women who have seen so much more, and 'know so much more than any insipid, uninformed chit of IS can posslblv do. Oh, the stupidity of the average chap erons! No wonder they sit and watch their soulless daughters being cast into tho shade by the smart married women or the finished and desperately attractive, though still un married, siren of 30." Tho woman of 30 will accept this compli ment as a debt the world owes her. Tho role of charmer Is no sinecure, so I Dray you look not with envy upon the much- 1 sought-after lady who in the fairest of garbs and with the sunniest of smiles trip- I pingly makes her way through life. She merits success. She has worked for it. Hours have been spent learning arts which give tho plain woman of uncertain himself; and It was this superb brocado gown and imperial mantle, woven In silver and embroidered with large silver roses, which he carried so tenderly all the way from Vienna to Budapest. The nuptial wreath of roses and orange blossoms was found at the top of the man tel, and curiously arranged, most likely by the Empress herself, round a medallion of lace made with the precious handkerchief which the bride held by the tips of her lin gers, according to the fashion of the time. The last items were taken to another church (also by her Majesty's desire), that of Notre IJ.tme de Lorctte, with a cushion of blue velvet embroidered by herself, on which these words were written. "Eliza beth hopes that her husband will some times rest liin knees and think of the very short days of happiness they spent togeth er." This little piece of parchment, attached to one of tho corners of the cushion, Francis Joseph took away with trembling hands. It was seen mechanically crushed between his lingers when he prayed before the St. Eliz abeth altar in the Church of Notre Dame de Loiette. This did not prevent his Majesty from taking the next train back to Vienna and taking a once-popular singer for his mor ganatic wife. A Complexion Food. A splendid complexion food, the receipt of which Eve obtained from a sweet old lady who h.'.s been a great beauty in her day, and who still wears tho echo of it in her lovely face and delicate skin that, though wrinuled, yet seems only rose leaves crum pled lightly, is made as follows: One ounce of snermacetti, one ounce of white wax. four ounces of sweet almonds, two ounces coca butter, half a teaspoonful of Uncturc of benzoin, two ounces ot violet water. Melt the spermacettl, wax, coca butter and oil of almonds together in a clean porcelain-llncd saucepan; when thoroughly blended, remove from the fire and beat to a cream, adding drop by drop the benzoin and violet water. Use at night beforo retiring a small quan tity rubbed well into tho face's delicate fabric thorough washing. Cold water is at times nearly u?elet3, making the minute insects adhere the more closely to the leaves of cabbage or greens. It Is a good plan, therefore, to wash such plants in warm wa ter. Raisins and other dried fruit, like currants, should be well washed, then dried and floured beforo u?ing. As regards cako mixtures, the fruit thus prepared should be put in last, since much stirring, which such a cake must receive, would send it all to the bottom. WHAT TO WEAR. The popularity of the half-sleeves on both jackets and dress waists, negliges, and sum mer tea-gowns, is constantly increasing. They aro givwn different titles by various designers without any marked divergence I of style. The lower part of the wleeves may , be more or less full, and the fabrics sua- plying this portion diversified according to j taste. Yet. by reason of such sllgnt varla ; tlon, very great difference in effect is ob tained. Tho Bulgarian strips are getting into neck scarfs now. and they are pretty and stylish, nicy are made up in four-in-hands and the effect of the colored embroidery on the coarse linen is very good. They aro Par ticularly pretty worn with heavy dark bluo linen waists, or dark waists of any kind, and they also have a good effect with white. THE HOUSEKEEPER'S SCRAPBOOK. We pass through a world of beautiful flow ers. With hands so empty of posies; Toying with leaves we squander the hours. When we might bo gathering tho roses. Judge. If a piece of calico is pasted over holes and cracks in plaster, they may bo white- There are now Lyons woven poplins that look like etamine, a new silky English fab ric called Liberty serge, a new crepe do Chine with an underweave or pale pink, mauve, etc.. and another figured in quaint Oriental designs; also a novel weave of French taffeta soyeuse called moussellne do taffeta, which is used on French millinery, for garnitures on evening dresses, and for toilets entire. cotton crepes, while looking very much! more in character, they are scratchy, clingy; abominations as compared with the cool, crisp lawns and muslins and organdies. Somo women may frown at any such un dress, save during the building of a coif fure, but sensible ones will revel In it so much of the time as they may pass within, the four walla of their own rooms on thesa hot days. X STvect Sixteen In China. In China there is nothing of the sweet girlhood which ! enjoyed In this country i'f fact, one rarely sees girls in China, says a writer in the London Mall. They m:irry to young that they appear to spring from childhood to maturity without any Interme diate stage of girlhood. Thero is no blush ing "fifteen" or "sweet sixteen," no flirta tions, no balls, no picnics, no billetswioux. The child has not ceased to play with her; doll before she has a baby to dandle. The only Joy of a woman's lire is in drowsing her hair. This Is done with an elaborate, artistic science curious to see. Their hair is Invariably black, and very long. It is drawn tightly from the race and stiffened with gum. It is then piled up ia coils and wings and loops that stand alone without the aid of pads, roulcts, pugs or hairpins. There are no spinsters In China except the nuns who dedicate their virginity to Buddha. Theso ladles shave their heads liko priests, and thus deprive themselves of the only Chinese sign of gender the hale dressed a la teapot. A woman uptown had on a pretty gown of black and white lawn the other day. It was black on a white ground so well cov ered that the appearance of the gown was dark. It had a small white yoke or guirnpe, and the lower part of the sleeves was of the white, puffed, each puff outlined with narrow black velvet ribbon, and the ruffle, which fell over the hand, edged in the same vriiy. The season of garden parties and similar outdoor fetes is nere, and the thinnest and cooiest ui summer guuns are seen avery- i where. Most of them are trimmed ono could in many cases say ovcrtrimmed with I lace, embroidery, chiffon, ribbon, etc. Be- I sidea tho transparent gowns which occupy; 'CLIMATE NO DIFFERENCE EBI6 COMPANTS EXTRACT OF BEEF. IT KFFDf ITT JTRr!NfiTH and FLAVORmGREENLAHD A UNDER. THE EQ.UATGK Ttvirct.i:KJ yu iuu SEE. TH POINT! 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