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The St. Louis Republic. [volume] (St. Louis, Mo.) 1888-1919, August 04, 1900, Image 7

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Persistent link: https://chroniclingamerica.loc.gov/lccn/sn84020274/1900-08-04/ed-1/seq-7/

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Pattern Gowns Furnish a Num
ber of New Ideas.
Fashionable dressmakers and tailors al
ways guard as secrets what the "next
fctylcs" will 5)e. therefore when one Is per
mitted a peep at modes in advance olio
should be properly appreciative.
The- word "imported" has n charm for
every woman. As a matter of fact, many
of the imported gowns that one sees from
timo to time have a very dowdy look. This
is not because they aro imported, but be
cause, many women are foolish enough to
take almost anything that bears the magic
stamp. The American dressmaker many
times makes a dozen improvements upon
Iter imported pattern gowns. Of course,
there are some of the most beautiful cf
costumes sent us from London and Paris,
and the foreign dressmakers have many
original ideas that can bo copied and carried
out at home at a much lower figure than
one will pay for them in tho "imported."
A bunch of dear little gowns that are to
como "next" aro illustrated on this page.
The novelties in cuts and trimmings can
easily be gathered without description. I
am told that the early fall gowns will have
many softening touches of velvet, and that
the picturesque half sleeve with full under
eleevo will occur in light weight wools.
While tho coming styles aro interesting
and it is well for ono to begin to take
notes, tho present fashions will remain un
changed for a month or two, and there are
many little odds and ends of styles that one
may care to pick up at once.
Somewhat dressy, thin frocks' to finish tho
"warm weather with are made of plain
colorud lawns. Gray unit a pinkish purple
that la between old rose and violet are
the shades found in the prettiest gowns.
Tho most effective trimming consists of
serpentine bands of he-ivy cream or ecru
lace. A fetching model in a pink-violet
lawn has the entire bodice and elbow sleevs
run in tucks a tuurth of an inch wide. The
front and tides or tho skirt are lucked tu
correspond Tor a depth that reaches tho
knee. Two waving lines of lace are put
around the bottom ol tho skirt above the
hem. The sleeves are finished at the elbow
with a flat band of lace. Tha neck is cut
lound and outlined with the lace. The belt
is of lace, with a knot of black, velvet. The
hat to be worn with this gown is of black
lace straw with a drapery and rosettes of
black moussellne do ioie. Beneath tho
brim toward tho back there ure closely
massed a number of pink roses. This tips
the hat a trine to one side.
Tho nicest foundation for a frock of this
sort is batiste in the same shade, the petti
coat trimmed with several rows of pleating,
though the gown may be entirely unlined
and worn over pretty white lawn petticoat
and corset-cover. It is none too late in the
season to make up gowns of tho sort re
ferred to. because, wnen the warm weather
Is over they make the nicest sort of indoor
towns for tall evenings.
Blue and pink lawns, with little embroid
ered dots in white or black form some girl
lth dresses. With white chip hats trimmed
with black velvet ribbons and pink rosea
they are suitable for any occasion.
Fine lawns with clear black uud whito
stripes make charming dresses. A girl with
very original ideas has Just made for her
self a black and white lawn. The skirt has
three rather narrow shaped or circular
llounces piped with pink lawn. Tho bodice
Is seamless at tho back. The fronta have two
strips about an inch and a halt wide each,
cut out at each side. This leaves a strip
of the lawn straight down the front and one
at each side of the same width as the cut
out pieces. These lawn pieces, that go from
neck to belt, are lined and piped with the
pink Itwn. Under them is a pink blouse of
pink lawn, on which nro embroidered si lie
dots in black, the dots far apart. There is
a trtock of pale pink lawn. The plain
sleeves are finished at tho wrist bv a cir
cular cuff faced with pink. The girdle is of
Mack velvet ribbon.
Another new dress is of cream white
batiste with a narrow yellow stripe. This
lias a skirt cut up in deep, square slashes,
showing fan p'.eatlngs of yellow lawn set
In. The plain bodice is slashed below the
bust to show a yellow-pleated blouse. Tho
elbow sleeves are cut in square slashes,
showing a pleated frill beneath. The high
collar Is of white moussollne do sole. Thero
is a scurf of the white silk gauze about tho
waist, tdrawn through a heavy gold slide.
The ends of tho scarf are puckered up like
a rosette.
And, by the by, the girl who will wear this
gown has a heavy, round gold bracelet that
the allps over her hand.
The elbow sleeve has brought back tho
bracelet, and the fashionable one is the
round and heavy ono the heavier tho better.
It is Just the height of the season for white
pique and duck suits. Their tailor-made air
makes them just the thing for practical
wear. The newest wrinkle is to wear with
them silk blouse fronts of blue or red
doited with white. The trimming of the hat
matches the blouse. MARY UAXD1'.
A Popular Si vie of Trimming That
Is of Ancient Origin.
Accordion pleating, so much In voguo
and likely to be for a season or two, is
literally centuries old. Statues carved In
tho rtlgn or Egyptian ICings who ruled
4,000 years before tho Christian lira show
skirts of robes pleated in this fashion.
But Just what the process was is unknown
to-day. in fact, accordion pleating has
been used more or less in modern times
over slnco the days of Queen Elizabeth,
it was not then a popular dress trimming,
however, for the operation of making it
was too tedious and expensive, as each
pleat was laid and ironed separately. About
1SG0 this pleating began to be largely used.
However, there is a satisfactory process
in use at present, and nothing lends Itself
moro attractively to fluffy gowns than ac
cordion pleating, which is even more par
ticularly adaptable to the charms of neck
wear. It would seem that colored linen frocks
aro tha mania of the moment, and in their
newest form, as seen on tho esplanade of a
fashionable resort, are red that dull, rich
red, so artistic and becoming. The trim
ming is stitched black taffeta, with a touch
of coarso cream guipure on the bodice. A
white linen bolero costume has a sash of
chine ribbon of white patterned by palo
green and mauve and black. Another
linen which attracted attention this sum
mer was of pale yellow, stitched with
black on the bolero and skirt, and com
pleted with an underbodice of embroidered
batiste belted in by a whito chine sash,
flowered with pink and pale green foliage,
and showing a black satin border.
Yachting has of late years become one of
the favorite pastimes or the French women,
and they have adopted for it a sort of seml
naval costume, which is truly fetching,
writes a correspondent to the New York
KTrjiuao. Tho skirt or this coitume la In-.
variably plain and round. A favorite gar
niture is a broad band surrounding tho hem.
of stamped-out linen, blue or red, appliqued
or incrusted. In the latter case the material
of the skirt itself Is stamped out, and the
colored band only forms the lining. The
seams of tho gores are frequently piped in
The bodice is either of the blouse type,
simply fixed by a leather girdle at the waist,
or of he jacket order over a sailor shirt
showing horizontal stripes of color. The
colored piping of tho skirt Is generally re
peated in tho seams of tho Jacket. The
headwear Is a white cap similar in form to
that of naial otticers. For chilly or rough
weather there is in reserve a second cos
tume of navy serge, trimmed with white
braid, but varying little in point of make
from that just described.
In English yachting costumes thero is a
notable taste for red. and one of the smart
est gowns on this order is made of light red
serge embellished with lines of stitching.
Tho short bolero is laid in box pleats, whica
aro stitched on the edges, and over the
broad, square sailor collar is laid an em
broidered collar of grass lawn. Tho vest Is
of wliite cloth strapped with black taffeta,
which also makes the broad, draped girdle.
A sailor knot of white holds the jacket to
gether below tho collar.
There is already a prediction that slocvea
are to bo larger. While they are not large,
thero is a noticeable absence of the skin
tight tendency even in the recently com
pleted costumes, and from the elbow to tho
s-houlder the inclination is for easy grace,
while from the elbow to the wrist the ten
dency is toward llulllness. There is a rumor
that the mutton leg is to lead in popularity.
As a guide to future modes the present
trend of fashion always has some bearing.
And as the Corday, the pompadour or Jardi
niere styles, showing many flowered fab
rics, with round, full skirts, and a variety
of waist forms, are the gowns of the mo
ment in Paris, these airy costumes of mus
lins and mulls are the Indices of next win
ter's ball gowns. They all show a marked
tendency toward low necks, and then there
are berthas which fold closely over the
shoulders, giving a delicious, fresh appear
ance to theso dainty creations.
Some Practical Pointers Regarding
Health of Finny Pets.
I Gold fish aro easily kept alive and
, healthy for many years If one only knows
I now to do it. Gold ash, says an expert.
"should never bo kept In the so-called
globe, or circular aquariums. Constantly
swimming around the vessel, they exhaust
themselves and die. sometimes after a
couple of days. Square aquariums are best,
and tho vessel must be properly filled with
gravel and aquatic plants, tho more plants
me ueuer.
"Furthermore, tha fish should never be
kept in running water, and the water
should never bo changed more than twice
a year provided, of course, the aquarium
Is properly constructed and has the neces
sary amount of gravel, aquatic plants and
the like. If this bo tho case, the carbonic
acid gas exhaled by tho fish is inhaled by
the plants in the water, and the oxvgen
given out by the plants is breathed by the
llsh, thus producing an equalization that
keeps the aquarium in a healthv condition
and obviates tho necessity of changing the
"When it Is necessary to change tho
water it should be done in a warm room,
and the fresh water must not be of lower
temperature. In changing the water the
fish might easily catch cold, a thing to be
"There should be a number of tadpoles
in every aquarium. They not only eat the
waste material, but they form an Interest
ing subject of observation when changing
from tadpolo into frog."
Modish. Articles of the Late-Sum-nier
Gowns of transparent materials as well
as gowns of wash fabrics arc more fashlon-
Jllllrt tllto .'Ann .l.r... I,.... 1 ai.
.-. w.u j m ciiun iiaa ueen me case ior
many seasons, and, oddly enough. In many
respects tho fashions resemble closely those
In voguo in the days when everybody did
wear thin frocks in hot weather. The
manufacturers of all these materials for
onco have been fortunato enough to meet
tho popular taste and have, consequently,
provided a seemingly endless variety of
designs and colorings. It is rather smarter
to uso materials that have llttlo or no stif
fening. In order to carry out the looso
clinging effects, but this does not by any
means condemn the ubo of heavier ma
terials such as duck or linen or gauzes that
have a wiry thread through them, says
Harpers Bazar. When these latter aro
used a softening effect is sought in the
The smartest of all gowns are those that
tiro noticeable from their simplicity and
their almost severe line3. In maiiv ways
they are a delusion and a snare, because
they look as though they were verv easily
made and easily llttcd. In reality thev
11PPO mnf oflf.,ftil Mttlr... .l.-.l- .... it..'
being secured by much careful work. The
pnly plainness abotu these gowns is the
long lines that now are absolutely neces
sary, when to be Ion? In the line running
from bust to shoulder is the aim of a
well-dressed woman. It ia not necessary
In order to get the desired effect in a sum
mer Kown to buy the most expensive ma
terials. The question to be considered is
whether the coloring and tho designs are
good and whether the material will lend
1 if e. f tt0 ,th? c?rrS:t dmpinfr or to the cut
Jl .Vs mslrea; s ca" ,,e ha(l In some
of tho s lk and cotton materials that cost
very little, especially at this time of the
year, quite as well as in the more elaborate
designs or the newer shades of coloring A
proof of this was seen the other day. when
at a garden party, that was preceded by
a breakfast, the gown that attracted the
most attention was made of black and white
ha4 ste "n " very tiny polka dot of white
The skirt was tucked to within a quarter'
of a yard of the foot In a multitude of nar
row side tucks and then flared out to its
full width, finished only with rows of cir
cular tucks. The waist, tight-fitting in the
back, was buttoned at ono side in front
with just a little Mousing and was cut
away at the neck to show an unlined yoke
and collar of white tucked chiffon The
sleeves reached a little below the olbnw
and wero thero finished with an overhang
ing cuff of whito moussellne de sole to
match the yoke. Tho belt was of black
satin-finished clastic studde with nail
htnds of steel and fastened with a pointed
buckle of cut steel.
The newest belts are those made of satln
fimshed elastic, in either blnck or white
They come in two widths, one nearly four
inches and tho other about an inch wide
T.hey are sometimes studded with nallheads
of jet or steel, but are oftener quite plain.
A handsome buckle is the most valuable
part of tho belt. These buckles are of
rhinestone or of cut jet and the workman
ship is exquisite. They are not cheap, rath-
,t , , ,vj .4n...o. , v., uui. ii win uc pos
sible before long, undoubtedly, to find some
that will be less elaborate and, consequent
ly, cheaper.
All tho new gowns require belts or sashes
which has created a demand for fancv rib
bons of all sorts. Soft ribbons are the
smartest, those of soft-finished taffeta, satin
or p.eau de solo beiny the handsomest; the
ground la plain with a brocaded figuro in
color. A number of exquisite designs in
black and wliite are shown, too, that are
particularly attractive. A present and very
popular uso of these sashes Is to provide
them In light colors to wear with Mack or
whito gowns. They are always finished
with a knotted fringe tho color of the
groundwork of the ribbon. AVhen ribbon
belts aro worn without wishes they are
pulled far down in front to give tho Iong
waistcd look; it is considered a mistake to
uso anything but plain ribbons for this pur
pose and either black or white is better than
a color. Tho sashes, by the way, are not
tied exactly in the back, but quite at one
side of tho back with ono high upstanding
loop and two long ends that reach to tho
hem of the skirt.
Bolero and Eton packets are still exceed
ingly popular. It is well to indulge In tho
fancy without fusther dolay, for before an
other six months they will undoubtedly no
longer bo considered at all smart. At pres
ent they are made in the most extraordinary
materials and in very eccentric shapes.
With a Good, Fresh Story the Tee
May 13c Successfully Broken.
"The preliminary stages of conversation
offer the principal ditlleulty 'the dread of
pilence mnki'S us mute.' " writes Mrs. Bur
ton Kingrlnnd, In the August Indies' Home
Journal. "The weather seems to have peren
nial interest. Why may not one treasure a
few bits of stories apropos of that much
worn topic, to bo brought out upon occa
sion? For instance, sonic ono speaks of the
variability of the weather, whereupon ono
might toll of the ladv, whoso phvsiclan ad
vised for her chanso of climate: 'Why, Doe
tor, you forget that I am a Xew York
woman. I never have anything else!' was
her rejoinder. At least, it Is better thnit
mere acquiescence, and when people havo
laughed together the ice is broken. It is
possible to have at one's tongue's end some
trilling things of interest on various sub-
havo tho marriago annulled. Their ef
forts, were, however, futile and, common
sense at length prevailing, me pott and
his royal bride wero iorgiven and taken
into favor.
Some six years since Princess Elizabeth
a granddaughter of the Enipeior of. Aus
tria, fixed her affections upon Baron Otto
von Seefried, a young iniantiy Lieuten
ant. Her relatives' efforts tu prevent
the mesalliance were of no avail, ior one
morning the lovers escaped to Genoa,
where they were married. Another Aus
trian royalty, the 1'riiicess Elvira, like
wise contracted a runaway marriage by
eloping with a Bnvanau Count, while the
mother of the present tjueen ot Italy
eloped Willi an artilleiy ollicer, who, on
Hie union turning out unhappy, committed
Some two years since a desperate t'ucl
was fought between Lieutenant ticza do
Mntaehicli and Prince 1'liilip of S.ixo-Co-burg,
in which the latter was wounded.
This encounter was tho outcome of the
action taken by the Prince's wife, Prin
cess Louise, eldest daughter ot the King
ot the Belgians, who, driven to de.-pi ration
by her hu.-baiiu's cruelty, had alter vainly
appealing to her f.itner ior pioteiiiun,
tluowu iii'isulf upon the honor of the Huu
guiinn ollicer ot Hussars, with whom sho
lied to Spain.
An elopement that failed was that planned
by tho Grand Duchess Olga, dstuyiiier of
Nicholas 1 of Kussia, and Lieutenant Bar
iatinskl. At the last niument the lover's
courage failed and ho made a full confes
sion. The Pilnccss was promptly man led
to Prince Charles of Wurtemutir;, while tho
tieaeheruus ollicer received such rapid pro
motion as to attain the highest rank in the
army belole he was 5').
Count Louis Batlhyany, who was shot
in the market place of Buda-I'esth by tho
imperial tioops for his complicity in tho
rising of ISIS, might have escaped his tragic
fato had he consented to desert his wife
and family and elope with the Archduchess
Maria, who was mauly in love with him.
Bolted Sivlss I'illoiv Case.
A pretty stylo of sofa pillow that is oc-
age the right to ruminate where more beau
tiful women fail to please.
There are charms of mind which charms
of the body cannot rival. Neither winsome
youth nor beauty finds much of a show be
side subtleties of the soul.
Only after hours of discipline can one
learn to control one's rashness of speech,
pleased when people are tactless, learn to
excuwj the hopelessly life-centered, selfish
individuals with whom life's roadway is
Hyprocrlsy Is a harsh term. It is applied
to the tactics of the woman of the world.
This Is unjust. Besides, hypocrisy is soon
unveiled. Then the game is lost.
Tact, sympathy, is not hypocrisy.
Francis Joseph Personally Carried
Out His Dead Wife's Wishes.
In that ancient house of Hapsburg-Lor-raine
there still Is much to be admired, and
the falling "descendant of the Caesars"
commands the sentimental .sympathy of the
civilized world.
.On his 1 ist journey to Buda-Pcsth the old
Empoior Francis Joseph was seen traveling
in his royal saloon with a larcc pasteboard
box tied by a broad, white ribbon. On his
arrival he look it in his carriage, then up
in his bedroom. In the morning, as early
as 0 o'clock, his Victoria was at a side gate
of the old Palacu of Hilda, and. to the sur
prise of his aid de camp, his Majesty ex
pressed his intention of starting by himself.
I'nder his at'm was the mysterious, cumber
some package. Nobody followed him, but
the secret of his early trip Is now known.
Francis Joseph, who constantly is rum
maging among the ptipers left by his late
Empress, found, lately, a note. In which s?he
asked her favorite daughter, Marie Valerie,
to look into a certain closet, where she
would find a box containing her wedding
dress. She was to take it to the Church of
St. Matthew, at Hilda, where it was to be
used as a vestment of grand ceremony. This
errand Francis Joseph undertook to fulfill
washed or papered over and will hardly
Dry sawdust, heated on a clean tin in the
oven is an excellent remedy for rubbing off
mildew and other damp spots from metal
and other polished goods.
Varnished paint may be cleaned with tea.
The tea may be made by boiling up old tea
leaves in the proportion of a quarter of a
pound of leaves to a pint of water. It is
also go-jd for cleaning black furniture that
has become dull and dirty. It should be
used warm, but not too hot.
Lamp glasses require to be bright, other
wise the lamp cannot give a clear light.
They should be polished each time the
lamps are cleaned. Nothing is better lor
this puropse than a uieee of newspaper
very slightly damped, with which the glass
must be well rubbed, and afterwards pol
ished with a piece of dry newspaper.
Pretty waste paper baskets which are
easily made for summer, or for any time
for that matter, are in separate pieces and
tied together with ribbons. Th outside is
colored with a pretty bright figured cotton
of some kind, the inside linrd with a plain
color in crepe paper to match a predom
inating color in the cotton. There are four
oblong sides and a square pirco Tor the bot
tom made of cardboard, which are covered
iii.iide and out in this way: the edses are
bound with ribbon and holes are punched
top and bottom, and th" basket 1 tied to
gether with ribbons. These pretty addi
tions to bedrooms are great conveniences.
The groat need in private houses in tho ;
guest chambers, as well as in hotel?. Is ai-
ways a plaro to put seraDs. Tho constant '
companion of one woman who travels fre
quently is a small basket into which to
throw the odd and ends, for which no
place is provided.
It would seem hardly necessary to mention
the fact that it Is unsafe to eat fruit with
out either washing it carefully or else par
ing it. except that so many persons imore
the lurking danger. Everything that is to
bo eaten uncooked should receive a most
so prominent a place in the fashionable pro
cession, there are very smart and equally
fashionable gowns of white cloth, soft gray
crepe de Chine, etc.. and ilght beautiful
summer wools In shades of beige, cameo
pink, daffodil, and mauve, as well as tho
black and whito melanges.
A lyric for Art Student.
Every art student, and indeed every girl
who has fixed her own "den." will ap
preciate this new lyric by the Irrepressible
Gellett Burgess:
Oh, Denim has Color and Tone
And Burlap has Texturo and Lino;
Old Fish Nets are catchy.
When looped up and patchy.
And Gunny-sack Curtains are Fine!
Oh, Charming the Hues that are shown
In the Matting that comes around Tea;
You can make an Art Couch
Where your Callers may Slouch
Just as Easv as E-isy can Be!
The Turkish Effect has been Known
To be easily got very Cheap
With a little old Junk
And Pillow and Trunk
And a well-hidden Place where you Sleep!
Have Yon u Ivlmouo?
One woman has found summer comfort
for 5S cents!
Very readily. She pimply picked up a bit
of a "bargain in the shape of a dressing
sacque built a la kimono, and In this, with
the two others for which she sent, sho
lives and" has" her being as much of tha
time as she passes in the particular part
of her domain which she calls her very;
Theso littlo jackets, worn with a light
skirt or with a pretty petticoat,, are to bo
had in all of tho pale shades of sheer
lawn. A band of white lawn, deliciously
clean ana crisp, is in the form of a bor
der, ami is the only trimming. As all who
have seen it agree, the collar formed of
these turned-back bands is tho height ot
artistic grace.
Just now sheer lawn is our preference,
though some are so devoted to China silk:
as to choose It. As for the real Chinese
Jects but tho supply needs frequent renew
al. There are moments when the embarrass
ment of silence is relieved by the knowledge
that nothing but the veriest commonplaces
are expected. When a hostess ha paired
her guests before a dinner and each man
seeks the lady assigned to him, he usually
says, I believe that 1 urn to have the pleas
ure of taking you In to dinner,' and she lias
but to bow and smile while accepting his
arm, and may say in a voice of perfunctory
politeness, "I am very glad.' It is usually
the man who takes the initiative and the
woman who bears the burden of the conversation."
Princesses Who Have Eloped Like
Many Less-Noted Women.
Spain provides us with moro than one
instance of a Princess of the royal blood
having renounced her rights and position
at tho call of love, says the Ixmtlon Tit
Bits. The Infanta Elvira, daughter of
Bon Carlos, left her homo at the bidding
of a humpbacked and ill-favored Koman
artist, than whom surely she could have
chosen none more unlike the ideal gallant
of romance.
Piincess Isabella, the great-aunt of the
present King of Spain, eloped with the
Polish Count Gurowski. One dart night
the Count repaired with a carriage to Eng
hcin, near Paris, where his inamorata
lived. Leaving her house by means or a
rope ladder, she soon Joined him, and the
couple escaped safely to this country, where
they were married. Alas! the glamor soon
faded, for, after awhile, the pair quarreled
and a separation ultlmatelv ensued.
Even more romantic was the elopement of
her sister, tho Princess Josephine. A cer
tain Senor Itende. a poet of promise and a
Journalist, attached to a Havana paper,
asked a rich planter for his daughter's
hand, with the result that he was ignominl
ously shown the door. Furious at this
treatment the young poet swore that ho
would show the world his worth by marry
ing a Princess.
Quitting Cuba, he journeyed to Madrid,
where, after years of want and suffering,
he gained a reputation as a poet. At last
his genius attracted the notice of tho
Princess Josephine to whom he had dedi
cated several or his effusions. The royal
lady made his acquaintance and became
enamoured with the poet. Her love was re
turned; tho pair eloped, were married at
Vailadolid. and escaped to Paris. On hear
ing the news the Princess's family were
aghast, and strovg by every means to
cupying the attention of summer piazza
workers is made of dotted muslin. A pat
tern with dots about an inch apart Is most
effective. Tho dots are worked over In wash
silk In rown comprising three shades ot
color, a shade to each row, giving the effect
when finished of shaded stripes. A ruflle of
plain muslin edged with a row of baby rib
bon in each of the three shades edges the
cover, which is slipped on over a pillow
covered with silosia. Pink, green and yel
low aro the favorito colors used, in dark,
medium and light shades.
An Observing Woman Says It Out
does That of Eighteen.
From tho Philadelphia Press.
A crafty penswoman deliberately goes
out of her way to flatter her sisters who
have reached 30. Could any woman who
has brushed by her 20s ask for a more su
gary bit of comfort?
"Give me a clever woman of 30 nnd I will
back her any day against a pretty, inex
perienced debutante of 20. It is little fem
inine ways which appeal so IrresHtably to
a man's heart. These ways are the result
of careful, tactful practice, generally speak
ing, the result of knowledge of the world
that can only como after one has lived
amongst men and women, after one has
lived and been loved! La jeunc fille is to
my mind most Irritating, and unattractive.
Sho is so helplessly self-engrossed, so preju
diced; she has still to learn such a vast
amount, when first launching into society
(though, of course, a clever mother can
help her simple ingenuo enormously). Girls
are as a rule taken from school much too
soon; they should be allowed to finish their
education by traveling abroad for a couple
of years before they mix on equal terms
with other women who have seen so much
more, and 'know so much more than any
insipid, uninformed chit of IS can posslblv
do. Oh, the stupidity of the average chap
erons! No wonder they sit and watch their
soulless daughters being cast into tho shade
by the smart married women or the finished
and desperately attractive, though still un
married, siren of 30."
Tho woman of 30 will accept this compli
ment as a debt the world owes her. Tho
role of charmer Is no sinecure, so I Dray
you look not with envy upon the much- 1
sought-after lady who in the fairest of
garbs and with the sunniest of smiles trip- I
pingly makes her way through life.
She merits success. She has worked for
it. Hours have been spent learning arts
which give tho plain woman of uncertain
himself; and It was this superb brocado
gown and imperial mantle, woven In silver
and embroidered with large silver roses,
which he carried so tenderly all the way
from Vienna to Budapest.
The nuptial wreath of roses and orange
blossoms was found at the top of the man
tel, and curiously arranged, most likely by
the Empress herself, round a medallion of
lace made with the precious handkerchief
which the bride held by the tips of her lin
gers, according to the fashion of the time.
The last items were taken to another
church (also by her Majesty's desire), that
of Notre IJ.tme de Lorctte, with a cushion
of blue velvet embroidered by herself, on
which these words were written. "Eliza
beth hopes that her husband will some
times rest liin knees and think of the very
short days of happiness they spent togeth
er." This little piece of parchment, attached
to one of tho corners of the cushion, Francis
Joseph took away with trembling hands. It
was seen mechanically crushed between his
lingers when he prayed before the St. Eliz
abeth altar in the Church of Notre Dame de
This did not prevent his Majesty from
taking the next train back to Vienna and
taking a once-popular singer for his mor
ganatic wife.
A Complexion Food.
A splendid complexion food, the receipt of
which Eve obtained from a sweet old lady
who h.'.s been a great beauty in her day,
and who still wears tho echo of it in her
lovely face and delicate skin that, though
wrinuled, yet seems only rose leaves crum
pled lightly, is made as follows: One ounce
of snermacetti, one ounce of white wax.
four ounces of sweet almonds, two ounces
coca butter, half a teaspoonful of Uncturc
of benzoin, two ounces ot violet water. Melt
the spermacettl, wax, coca butter and oil of
almonds together in a clean porcelain-llncd
saucepan; when thoroughly blended, remove
from the fire and beat to a cream, adding
drop by drop the benzoin and violet water.
Use at night beforo retiring a small quan
tity rubbed well into tho face's delicate
thorough washing. Cold water is at times
nearly u?elet3, making the minute insects
adhere the more closely to the leaves of
cabbage or greens. It Is a good plan,
therefore, to wash such plants in warm wa
ter. Raisins and other dried fruit, like
currants, should be well washed, then dried
and floured beforo u?ing. As regards cako
mixtures, the fruit thus prepared should be
put in last, since much stirring, which such
a cake must receive, would send it all to
the bottom.
The popularity of the half-sleeves on both
jackets and dress waists, negliges, and sum
mer tea-gowns, is constantly increasing.
They aro givwn different titles by various
designers without any marked divergence
I of style. The lower part of the wleeves may
, be more or less full, and the fabrics sua-
plying this portion diversified according to
j taste. Yet. by reason of such sllgnt varla
; tlon, very great difference in effect is ob
Tho Bulgarian strips are getting into neck
scarfs now. and they are pretty and stylish,
nicy are made up in four-in-hands and the
effect of the colored embroidery on the
coarse linen is very good. They aro Par
ticularly pretty worn with heavy dark bluo
linen waists, or dark waists of any kind,
and they also have a good effect with white.
We pass through a world of beautiful flow
ers. With hands so empty of posies;
Toying with leaves we squander the hours.
When we might bo gathering tho roses.
If a piece of calico is pasted over holes
and cracks in plaster, they may bo white-
There are now Lyons woven poplins that
look like etamine, a new silky English fab
ric called Liberty serge, a new crepe do
Chine with an underweave or pale pink,
mauve, etc.. and another figured in quaint
Oriental designs; also a novel weave of
French taffeta soyeuse called moussellne do
taffeta, which is used on French millinery,
for garnitures on evening dresses, and for
toilets entire.
cotton crepes, while looking very much!
more in character, they are scratchy, clingy;
abominations as compared with the cool,
crisp lawns and muslins and organdies.
Somo women may frown at any such un
dress, save during the building of a coif
fure, but sensible ones will revel In it so
much of the time as they may pass within,
the four walla of their own rooms on thesa
hot days.
X STvect Sixteen In China.
In China there is nothing of the sweet
girlhood which ! enjoyed In this country
i'f fact, one rarely sees girls in China, says
a writer in the London Mall. They m:irry
to young that they appear to spring from
childhood to maturity without any Interme
diate stage of girlhood. Thero is no blush
ing "fifteen" or "sweet sixteen," no flirta
tions, no balls, no picnics, no billetswioux.
The child has not ceased to play with her;
doll before she has a baby to dandle.
The only Joy of a woman's lire is in
drowsing her hair. This Is done with an
elaborate, artistic science curious to see.
Their hair is Invariably black, and very
long. It is drawn tightly from the race and
stiffened with gum. It is then piled up ia
coils and wings and loops that stand alone
without the aid of pads, roulcts, pugs or
There are no spinsters In China except
the nuns who dedicate their virginity to
Buddha. Theso ladles shave their heads
liko priests, and thus deprive themselves of
the only Chinese sign of gender the hale
dressed a la teapot.
A woman uptown had on a pretty gown
of black and white lawn the other day. It
was black on a white ground so well cov
ered that the appearance of the gown was
dark. It had a small white yoke or guirnpe,
and the lower part of the sleeves was of
the white, puffed, each puff outlined with
narrow black velvet ribbon, and the ruffle,
which fell over the hand, edged in the same
The season of garden parties and similar
outdoor fetes is nere, and the thinnest and
cooiest ui summer guuns are seen avery- i
where. Most of them are trimmed ono
could in many cases say ovcrtrimmed with I
lace, embroidery, chiffon, ribbon, etc. Be- I
sidea tho transparent gowns which occupy;
Ttvirct.i:KJ yu iuu
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