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n? Vfu t TIIE REPUBLIC: SUNDAY. DECEMBER 23. 1900. J! i iswR fNEt M i - - ' if Jp i Wf mim KP llsiiP rdw-fMar I j;mnyM. B tW (tSA i&Pi?wy 'Wr gasg - .-s I ft- i i r, i JW5 u rt 4SUI - i ifV".. ,iSfroCJ 1 ll braSSfe . WMW &wrjwwJ,sJ,srmrj'ssssj,sjrsssj'Jsssssj,smw. One of the Holiday Gowns Ha.s a. Fetching Red Coat With .-.vj"wvvvspyvHv.vj"A-.-.v.".rwvsrj".".".".-.".".v HARMONY IN DRESS. Why the Woman Who Always Wears Becoming Clothss Put Aside Picture Hats. .WRiirmsi fok tiie sx'Tjat repubijc. Tho litest iout myself, dear Helen? 7all. th latest Is that I hav put aside picture bats end eons to TtrearJns tcquea. I fancy I can hear you say nonsense." nn2 It I trere nearer you that you would drop Into your favorite little talk about arroman is only as old as she looks.' Just 10. my dears Just so. That 1 may not l6okold Is the very reason I have put aside hats with wide brlmJt 'Wide brims cast shadows and make a face that Is not all round and youth ful look Iran." This Is an extract? from a r.oman's letter. Tou may readily cucss that she ls-a sensible woman. A few years ago this naman ncre the most fetching ot picture hats and looked cs pretty In them 03 one of the'ctualnt Az ures cf some old portrait. Her leaving oft the -n ldc-brlmmcd hat was gradual. She did not Immediately Jump Into tho Binallcr hat ot toque style. Thercroro. tho chanse was cot noticeable. One only noticed that this woman looked well In the hats she wore fn 31 day to day. and thit was all there was about It. That she had come to n place where she felt the chango v. as nec essary no one irould ever have guessed, though had rhe kept on wearing the large hats no doubt In a little time folks would have said: "What a pity It Is that a woman of uch good sense In other things win drcs3 eo unbecomingly." There Is something positively pathetic about tho clinging to clothes that are youth ful when one has passed the dHIdlns Una between youth and eel It Is not that one must put aside colors and don somber hues. In fact, n bit of pink looks well tucked Into the bonnet of the quite elderly, end recently I saw a matron pvho Is a grandmother wearing an evening ;own of pink. But this gown was not o ithe Rutty, girlish sort. Neither was It of the vltld pink that sweet sixteen may wear so happily. The gown was of a. heavy, sat iny stuff, and ot a faint and unobtruslvo shade. Under gaslight It was immensely be coming, launder would have paled out and gray would havo made her whlto s-kin look sallow. The pink threw a becoming Vglow, and nobody wculd have thought of jcalllng this gown too youthful for the (wearer. Harmony In dress Is alwajs possible. even for the woman of mo.it limited means. This does not mean any more harmony as to o coiors mat are combined than It does to C "" 1 UHO BilBnillMll : . ) J l Show.ng te Smart Coa.t " "' J j".1 VWJ.-. r.r.-.m Back of ihc New Basque. . " '.V.V.VWftWAWWWV A Smxi IjI 'itri-rMtn'lnr PI J ) J J . W.a.WJUVWV IWJW, Pleated Tail. tho fitness of the garment to the ace of the w carer. And there Is another thins that a woman should always bear In mind as regards dressing1, and that la to put on her clothes properly. Careless dressing may though It seldom does answer very well for tho pret ty girl who Is graceful and attractive enough to wear anything she pleases nnd in any way that pleases her, though dowdl nefs Is seldom attractive In any one. If It is only tho putting on of a ribbon It Is worth ono's while to put this on right. In deed, it Is Just the arrangement of the small belongings of dress that proclaims one's nat ural tendency to neatness or dowdlness, and these little "fixings." too, are Just what give stjle many a time to a costume. Here is a fact that frequently provokes tho critical and careful woman to Indulge in gos!p. Tho other day I heard two very charming women dlscuslng it as It ap plied to one of their women friends who has recently gone to housekeeping in a nest of a home at the .edge of town. Said matron No. 1, "It Is such a pity that Clara docs not take more pains to look neat about tho house. Why, the other morning when I ran In there at breakfast time she had on the dowditst oM wrJl'Perand the straps of her slippers were unfastened, and I am certain she had not combed the tangles out of her hair. She looked a perfect fright. my dear." And matron No. 2 replied: "I think Clara is making a big m!t.ike. It Isn't enough to look pretty after Ijmp- llght. While she may have been as dowdy I jii sh pleased before she married, I dn not think It wise for her to let Charlie know tills. You know, he It one of the neatest men In tho world, ami hi mother and .Mi ters aro always the pink of daintiness at any hour of the day." And so on. and so on. tin gossip ran. It w:i" not unkind, nnd I could not help hut wKli th.it tho Clara who furnished the tuple was somewhere about to hear it. I am certain it would have been a fortunate thing for her to have listened to it all. The general harmony of life ii helped out by a harmony In dress. The cje is pleaded by color, and daintiness Is altvas refresh ing. To begin the day In a wrapper or sacque which, to bo real honest. Is not spot lessly cltun, means to begin the day wrong. An ill temper goes so well with dowdy clothes, while freshness and daintiness In- .spiro ono to cheerfulness. As a matter of f.itt. all of us Ile up to our clothes, more or less, liven a tiny girl will put on her party manners with her party frock. It is a mistake for Clara, who may havo had her breakfast in bed at 10 o'clock be fore tlio married, to sit opposite now to ' her husband at the breakfast table In an unbecoming, wrapper and a tousled coiffure. A man never tlnds his ideal woman In a dowdy woman at least, not after marriage. SUJIGAItET UANNIS. AND NOW IT IS of The 4unja HopLl-1'c AKIS, DKC. 7. So Ions ami popular lias Iiccn tliL- iiii'if tin- Iifltcil IilmiM- that .. i.t...r i.n.....A : r.id.iiiti l7 Iftllln 1-M 111 -" illll- infill- llllip lu.llii'u docliliil mii.lJy :ii riipiiml. After cotiiilcnililc cxpiTiinciitiii:.'. I he nial.crs tf ratliiiii:ill- K""'Mf lf-iilc(l ti try the "i-oat tail" or postilion coat vilc nr nasipio upon uoini'ii :iiiioii lor a I'liaiiK' from tlu cii-rlastin rounJ uaKr. At tln iiioinciit tin I'oat-tail 1iaMtii N tin- m-wi-st tiling In faxliionV worlil. Koth day ami ckmiIiik pw5-jsIkhv this til. II is iiitivo of tin' IMi-t'Woirc l.l("' of loii :ik. uhii'li njoyI a revival onoi; lief.in. I b'-lieve miiiic time in tin c'tclitit's. Tiw I":iri i:m ilrcsiiialcr Is at prosi-nt inaKin the tnot of tlio liking for ri'il. A Miitiuin;: coat is nuiilu of a dull but rich Miade of ted. The back is laid in pleats, after tin Manner showen in the sketch. This coat tops a skirt of blue-black cloth, and makes one. of the lowliest cobtnmes for the holiday M':imii. The narrow tails, about six inches Ion;;, are the most popular, though the broad pleated tail is wry stjlisli and. fancy, destined to lead, as it is more graceful and less tirf than the smaller tails. An ewnin gown of white satin is made with a coat that opens over a vest of draped moussolinu de soie. The coat Is trimmed with gold lace and big paste buttons. The corsage Is cut round and very low, and the skirt so shaped that It falls In a number of graceful folds. A styllh little gown, suitable for street wear. Is the work of one of the leading tailors. This is made of zebe llue cloth, n dark shade of blue, and is trimmed with folds of red velvet. The basque has the narrow tails. A very rich gown Is fashioned after the design of the one thown In the up per sketch, which lias the little red coat. This richer gown has a coat of mauve cloth and n skirt of mauve velvet. The gown was made for an American wom an of tall and graceful figure, and when she wears It In 'Washington later in the season It will, no doubt, be much ad mired. The wide girdle of the Telret Modish Gloves. ASTOIt beaver gloves find a vjry large sale this autumn. Also C I English gloves of II dressed kid with II pique-stitched seams II with heavy llnei on II the back in black or .'II a darker shade of the glow. Fine suede-tln-Ished cashmere gloves have estra long Jer- 'm scy wrlsts.wblch cling closely to the arm rnd fit perfectly. These are sold In all the stroct shades and In fast black, and be cause of their usefulness and dainty make grow more ropular each jcar for coll wcather wear, being selected and worn dur ing tho cntlro winter. In lieu of nny other glove, by a largo class of women. They wear excellently, and they are suitable for any but dress occasions. In addition, for winter rides, sleighing, etc.. are Kuslan gloves with fur tops, ladies" lined silk gloves in dark colors, heavy knit mittens of saddlers' silk. Saxony styles with fancy tops, and heavy dog-skin glocs, fur-lined and finished with gauntlet tops. So many of tho fashionable balls are given on opera nights that society women now make a point of going first to the opera, and In consequence, each season the toilets grow more and more elaborate, observes the writer of a New York fashion letter. Tho background of the opera boxes are par ticularly well adapted to throw out in bold relief delicate pastel colors, brocades, and other rich material.", and the prestnt artis tic stjlo of hair-dressing and the great number of Jewels worn add greatly to the brilliancy of the scene. In the boxes full dress will prevail all winter, nnd in the orchestra stalls also there will be many low-cut gowns, with an absence elsewncre of any surt of large hat, even the so-called bonnet" btlng minute, fragile things. Spangled ami Jeweled wings, with an aigrette, high, stylish Spanish combs, hold ing a half-wreath of damask ropes, tiny, cap-like liebe shape-", studded with rhine btones. with one soft, nodding plume rising from a cockade .of whlto lace, are Included among the head-covering". I'ale-blue. pale pink, black, nhite and ruby-red velvet rib bons are formed into curlously-tled bows In termixed with gold or silver ornamrnts, laces. pompon. Jewcjed slides, etc. With a bandsomo high waist, these little bount effects aro considered suitable for general wear at the opera, but the most sensible and fashionable method Is to nrrange the hair in some pretty, becoming fashion, and omit any sort of headwear whatever; and undeniably it adds greatly to the elegant and picturesque effect of the house to have the women all with uncovered heads. It is superfluous to mention, also, the comfort and relief it affords to an entire audience desiring a free, unobstructed view of tho stage. niS DISTINCTION. AX eccentric and grandiloquent old English man was always ready with an answer when his long-suffering wife begeed ucr- mlssion to mend holes and otherwise repair the ravages which time made upon his gar ments. "A hole, madam," he would say, with haughty decision, "is but the accident of a day. A darn, on tho contrary, is premedi tated poverty." THE COAT BASQVE. f foims a pretty anil graceful effect about the waist. Though only a. few are to be seen so far. there is a jacket of brocade trimmed with wide collar and cuffs of lace, that I am sure is bound to haw a vogue. One .such will be worn with a flowing skirt of black panne. The.se coats will haw the square pleated tails at the back, and haw undcrsleeves of lace. The brocade jacket comes under the head of Louis XIII .styles, and the fash ions of that period appear to be the fa write ones in I 'arts this winter. Lace collars, of considerable width, are gieatly in demand. Once upon a time-in the days of Louis XIII both men and women wore such collars. Now one linds them with both high-necked and low-necked gowns. Often the neck is cut down round and finished with the wide collar; jiM as the littlo Princes are pictured wearing their collars. Many of the collars are so deep that they fall over the shoulders and almost down to the elbows. The narrow vandyked col lars are also worn, these pointed laces turning over the tops of high stocks. At a icceiit afternoon tea some of the smartest gowns of the season were seen. There were several very attrac tive black costumes variously touched with white. I'erhaps one of the most stylish was of black broadcloth with stitched bands of white cloth. Another black broadcloth had collar and revera of ermine. There were strappings, on both the coat bodice and skirt, of the black cloth stitched, with Just the merest speck of white cloth peeping out at their edges. On the straps were tiny gold buttons. There is some favor being shown Rus sian styles as well as those of chararter istle Frenchiness. Long redingotes, made entirely of sable. If one can afford It, or trimmed with broad and heavy bands of sable, arc wonderfully fetch ing. A gown of rich brown cloth with bands of sable on the skirt and a bolero of sable worn over the bodice, .was ac wg KM' m f" w III It iX ( i ' W 'li If vr 11 I I V hi 1 K Ui v VvwnwvvAJJ.vspJVVrtJVtfvwJv.-.-.-J..- The Coal Style Is Effectively and Gracefully Vsed in j an Evening Gown of White companied by a big cart-wheel ht of t-able, with a big bunch of plik roses just on the tip of the brim at the'ftont the green foliage trailing off on tlnj j,riia at each side. There were puffs of rich, jellow lace about the wrists, sua st0. gether this gown was most Dletinmi. and delightful to look upon on a wiatet'sv I day. The pink roses lent Jnst iidii freshness as a heavy costume of elotfc l anu fur is all tne better for. Zebellne Is a material that fills a nee ed place, consequently its popularity was assured from the moment of Its ap. pearance early this winter. It Is a soft and beautiful material with a satin Ea. ish. It makes up nicely Into tailored costumes and Is not as heavy as clota, Parisian visiting costumes are especially handsome of this stuff with velvet sad fur trimmings. As an example of sack gowns one of a light shade of fawa zebellne may be chosen. This has a long redlngote, which Is caught up at one fids to show a velvet petticoat beneath. Tha other side bangs straight, and at tt back the drapery Is caught np by a largt gold buckle. There are two shoulder berthas outlining a short yoke of whitt satin, embroidered In gold. The-top oas of these capes Is of the fawn-colorei vnlfAt tn molnh ttin ntt?nit an this Is also embroidered In golil The nnder cape Is of turquoise blue v vet and shows only a little bit froa under the top cape. The sleeves tarn back with double cuff;" of the brown and blue. Undcrsleeves of lace show In pnlfj about the wrists. The toque to go with this gown Is of blue velvet, embroidered in gold, with a brim of sable fur and t fluff of cream lace. Zebeline In various shades of bine Is exquisite for gowns for quite young women. One Is effectively made wlta touches of deep yellow panne velvet i about the b'odice and &omc heavy cream- j tinted lace. The skirt has rows of ma- j chine stitching in gold colored silk and j there are little gold buttons on the cop sage, MAKIE AR5ISTBOXG. . ft ,A .vwvl Satin Trimmed in Gold Lace. 4 1nWMVJSififi. 'AMmvWWVMWWWWUWVW -.w. -V-' 1 au. - tfwiryuwsra "H.s35E2sa3SE3-afJ$ gJ.53.AJt.