Newspaper Page Text
'-jare-df -: - '''jt bT ,'"': fo rrVrvw,1, ,;fo:ffillw5$r "303?'?-aS'"'"-'' "V J'1? W i...gv T srgTr,'.1.; ..rrrrxs i;1,1:, '.LV:.1 f.'.. I,-.1.. ? :: S-gr- VRVi-",W. THE REPUBLIC: SUNDAY. JUNE 1, 1902. J IMP IV JRIAN Locks - v yj w zr X m Jk ,?m z-zzntf- yA$$AG-j: JTOf? 7ALsZ? JtelFP VtAXMDOX TOJt THE SUNDAT REPWULia. BT MARIAN MAItTINEAU. Wonun'i crown of beauty Is her halrl No need to tell her of It. She knowa It sad recognizes It. IiOt a woman's hair lx-gln to fall out anfl away she rushes to the druggist to set a tonic. Let Jt continue to fall and she Koes to the massage operator, a head masse.,, one who understands the rt of manlpuFaf' in the scalp In such a manner as to Ktlm." late the roots of the hair. Let her hair grow gray, become faded In tone, or In any way get "out of sorts." for hair can really get out of sorts, then there Is real trouble, for well a woman knows that her best beauty Is threatened. There may have been some time a beau tiful woman afflicted with a bald head: but If so htr name Is not on record. All the world's famous women have had heads of hair, or at least they have had hair that could be prettily arrranged.'and the records havo yet to tell of a woman who could bo pretty In spite of poor hair. The low-growing: hair. Riving the fore head that wide, calm look which Is de manded by certain types of beauty, does not belong to all. Nor are the curllnjr side locks within reach of everybody. High fore heads are an American affliction, but the American woman overcomes the evil a lit tle by th9 tasteful ways In which she dresses her hair. Pretty hair should be fluffy; It should bo glossy; It should be sufficiently abundant to clothe the head nicely and It should bo even In color. Hair That Has Grown Gray Because of Xeglect. The question of color Is one that both ers every woman with a head of hair. Her hair may bo uneven In tone, shading from light to dark and looking faded in places. Again It may be actually streaked with a long light lock trending Its way through hair much deeper In color, may have a curiously limp and dull look, without "bloom," as the French put it. Gray hair offers still another problem, one of the most serious of all hair problems. To meet the color question fairly and squarely there Is only one thing to be done. If the hair has been neglected and has grown gray, or if it Is decidedly streaked, or If It la In any way peculiarly marked by nature, a light streak and a dark one, there Is but one solution of the matter and that solution Is hair dye. The hair must be made all of one color and to do' this select the best dye obtainable and follow directions. There are home made dyes that are not as good, and It Is nsafe to experiment with them. Buy, therefore, the best and do not deviate as much u one hair's breadth from the printed rules for. use. But these, cases aro the extreme ones, the cases that occur only once In a while. And the rules which hold for these rare ones aro not applicable to the others. For the majority of women the best treat ment for the hair consists In the right kind of shampoo, in a skillful 'massaging, in a little clever handling afterward, and that Is all. Hair that is faded and drab-looking has J MARTINEAU'S NEW WAYS OF CULTIVATING THE HAIR. Streaked With Gray and Curls That Have Faded May Be Reclaimed by a Little Clever Handling and the Right Kind of a Shampoo. ftSR'&E TF -: i i" 3& a1 - r. ft- if. J I - a" ' m E&r- '.-, A tefi b ! W-2 g9S been known to reclaim itself under the fa miliar egg shampoo. Ammonia and Melted Soap Will Lather Easily. Take a half cske of oily soar. Select 0-e that is recommended for Its oily properties and put It on the Btove to melt, cutting it first In little pieces. Let It rest In a double boiler and cover It with a pint of water When melted remove from the fire and lot cool. Beat Into the cold soapy water one egg and add a few drops of ammonia. In dealing with mixtures In which there Is ammonia or melted soap a great deal of care must be taken that the eyes are not In jured. It Is best to have an assistant who will operate the soapy mixture' while the patient rests her head against the edge of the wash basin, a towel held to her eyes. This mixture' should lather easily, and Is Intended for the massage of the scalp and hair. Never rub soap directly upon the hair, for it sticks and cannot be removtd with ever so many washings, but the mix ture, on the other hand. Is easily managed. in washing clothes it Is the custom to al low thm to remain a while In the suds. So. In washing the hair, the head should remain .x.-iturated for a few minutes, that the soapy water may do its cleansing work. Let the operator manipulate the suds for, say. Ave minutes. The rinsing should be done with a Epray. The little sprayer with which flowers are sprinkled Is better than nothing, but it really coats so little to own a pipe of rub ber with a sprinkler attached to it that most women are willing to afford the little luxury. The water should be hot at first, then cold. With home-made contrivances it is difficult to regulate the heat, but It can be done, and the result Is a clear, smooth, sweet-smelling scalp. The matter of drying is managed In vari ous ways, one of which Is by continual fan ning. Stretching the hair out In the sun Is good, while hanging it before a grate Are, If the weather will' permit, is best of all. Oil of Hose Geranium an Excellent Perfume. However It is done, the hair should be well dried, and there should be no thick, clinging feeling to It. A dainty custom of scenting the locks comes from Paris. A little cap of fine mus lin, filled with satchet powder. Is slipped on over the head and the hair Is bundled up Into it. A permanent scent Is thus Im parted. An excellent scent for the hair Is made from oil of rose geranium. Take a few drops of the oil and add a third of the quantity of glycerin. Pour upon absorbent cotton" and roll the cotton round and round until quite a piece Is moistened. Now Epread out the cotton until It makes & flat piece like a pancake and sew It Into thin silk. This can be placed in the crown of the llttlo scented cap to impart extra fragrance- o the hair. Be careful and remem ber that you are dealing with an oil. If left on more than fifteen minutes it will oil the hair too much. All sorts of devices for perfuming the hair are employed, one of these being th tying of a ribbon around the head at night to which are attached little soft sachet bags, all hanging from ribbons of different lengths. -- -- , t '-. lir-a-; i '! t s t- "Paiti' iAh STMS A, i yi-lv Xc"''- t'feisf. - W S?5S: ,f SSSQJ $ &&.-' f ah$ $??& 2 k.. iflT"- w -s e pi.- 5-" kfc .CJ- IT YX&? 5 m K t-i ftr- W&. - -1 ?? rs "fei y V No hair scent Is ever permanent. It must be of en renewed. Just as your dinner must be eaten dally, so also must your scent sachet give forth Its dally supply. When you come to think of It, perfumery should not "last" should not be expected to do so. But it should he renewed every nay. Shampooing as a Remedy for Dandruff. Hair which shows dandruff In nn unpleas ant manner needs shampooing. That is the first step in its cure. Often that which is mistaken for dandruff is merely dut and will disappear If the hair be treated 're. quently to a shampoo. But In no case should the hair be washed more frequently than once In two weeks, and the Mead which seems to require more washing is in a poor condition. Nothing cures dandruff as quickly aa oil ing the head. This seems to heal the scalp and to remove all tendency to a scaly con dition. But oil, on the other hand. Is unpTeas ant and the .scalp must be cured without causing the 'lair to become greasy or to suffer In any way. A famous singer applied to a hair spe cialist for treatment, complaining of ex cess of dandruff. The specialist becan by manipulating the scalp very thoroughly, though lightly, with, almond oil. The quan tlty used was small nnd the sr.-iin , thoroughly gone over. Perhaps a few drops did the whole work. After a week of this treatment, massaging the scalp every other day with the tips of the fingers anointed with the oil, the singer's scalp was entirely healed. While gray hair Is honorable, it is not always pretty or becoming. Seldom does the possessor enjoy it. To prevent gray hair there Is nothing like taking care of th hair while the roots are young and vigor ous. A shampoo once a month, a little light brushing twice a week for five minutes with a soft brush, letting down the hair at. night, dressing it In different ways, so that the pins do not come always on tho same spots, nourishing the roots with a good tonic, all these things tend to keen the hair from growing gray. Roots that have grown feeble can be stimulated by a light ma:saga Lift the hair lightly with the fingers. Just so that the scalp Is maesaged by the finger tlpa This ts,.the treatment advised for those who find the gray hair or our of condi tion. Soda Will Brighten Locks of a Drabbish Hne. Golden hair is frequently produced by snampooing tne nair with hot water In which a little kitchen soda Is dissolved. The soap should be kitchen soap and after it is rinsed off then the wahtncr na f .. . finally the hair Is well rinsed and dried in ! th, .,, Thl. will .. li. ... . . . . :Z J 7 . ,7 , " c'"""y ongnten nair that is Inclined to be of a drabbish hue. fnataafl nt the niiMv vtt t,i.i. t admired. But the process is apt to be Harmful ana is not recommended. A correspondent, who signs herself Mr. J. R.. writes that her hair Is getting thin and that she dreads baldness. "I wash my hair often." saya she. "and brush It for fifteen minutes every night before reUring. Tet It continues to come out." The latest theory In hair preservation is that hair'can b. best preserved by letting J-.-'f, .-&:' 111 53 Br-' -SfJ -i IT'S- ()& OFF THE UNEVEN NZJ r V , It alone. A limited amount of neglect 1m nrove the hair. I This I particularly demonstrated in th case of men who become Daw. umversanv. nt ?n earlv agf- Tnor men. hn work h:inl and ivhr have no time to .p'-nd upon sham Iors and fancy hrur-hes do not complain of SEVERAL QUESTIONS OF ETIQUETTE. WRITTEN- FOR THE SUNDAY RBFUBMC. A. a noon wtddlns do nentlfmen wtar thfir oiwoosU Into the church auditorium? lw they r.rry thm en their rm? Do th-y .lipoe of them before enterlnc the church? If f.e IiU how do thfy 1l,ro of th-m? SUr liil rp-rly wear eionlng ilrejn rtfcollete at an eienlrs wwMing In an Ep'ivepal church, or in any church? I church. I'nlrcopsl t Catholic. uii;e against women lw Inc tretent In church without hat or lnrf t nt xrcrtdW or at ether times? At a church vuH JlnK do nrher offer their arms to la Jlw accom panied by rentlemcn? If o. where dees th- tun tleman walk? Does lie tike, an uhr s nrm . J It proper for a scntlemxn to ear tin overcoat into any private hue for hoever '"'" except Into the hallway, or In a ceremonial pres ence" la it rmper to wear an overcoat into church and to keep It on dorins '"-lce? A gentleman .-Iinuln wear hi? overcoat into the church, r tak- It of and carry t on his arm Ju-t as l.c- wciiV in soInE ; In.o a theater. There Is a rule ir i the Roma Catholic and also in the Hish Church kp.- ( copal swvlce rcqulrlnc all women to have : their heads covered in entering a conse crated edifice, but this rule ir. supposed to ( be followed out ly the wearing of some sm&ll bonnet or headdress, nnd a lady wears either her evening wrap or tome . tnn nTr lif shoulders with a decol- i i lete cown. The u?hf r offers his arm to the i lady in going up me .:. - .--.-Is expected to walk behind alone. A gentle man Is suppoFed to take off his overcoat, or rather to have it removed for him by tlie butler. In entering a private house u.. .A ..null, tn mnke a call, as an I overcoat Is not considered correct for In door wear. An overcoat is remoirai m church during service if the church U too warm-thls Is a precaution against taking -old after, rather than from any rule of etiquette concerning it. I am a college graduate. (B. V. M. D.). but never moved In the bet society. Last week I attended an Eplicopallan Church reception, on in vitation of some wealthy bualnesa men. and there met their wives and families. Several cf th wives gave me their addresaea and aed mi .- it ... T n.im1A tn An fto. At Strongly in cnu. -ti'. -- - I am not wealthy and am only making a fair llvlrs. what Is the proper thing to wear ana what would be the meat approprlau tlma to call? Should I leae a plain card and ona also with my degree on? Would It be. out of place If I ahould not call at all? C. IN. I- T ... .-1..1. . ta fnltti Tint to YOU WOUIO. ccnuimj " ww..-.. "" - make use of the orportunltyoffered to you ... ......! . 11 V.venlntr calls ' by tne inviimiwn i.u w... - have gone out of fashion, but you can call any time in the afternoon up to 6 o clock or on Sunday afternoon. A frock coat and I striped trousers are the correct costume, but a sack coat Is permissible, as the chances are that you will not find any one at home. , You should leave an ordinary visiting card, j omitting your degree. It would be decided ly rude for you not to call, as well as ex- . tremely foolish. r Kindlr Inform me of the order of proceirton at a midday church wedding wh.r. to. aides are , So nTrxow to permit of two walking abMa.L Should uaher precede be.t man and bridegroom? Bhould bett roan precede groom? J. A. D. ... .. . tti CAltnwtnr eueerjana ' wiii you ?o y '-- -z'x:-i, .: ,. , ?,- twVwedVing receptlcn at the bom. of a Side who I. a .tr.nger. what Is th. proper thins tn Si in the way of cards? If you do not mean 11 alcept the invitation, when ahouid card. b. ... " nl7 . ...at Jt- . iiim fifl a weddlnjc invuaiiwu uc. uw. 1a-r- answer unless "B- S. V. P.." meamnff "aa answer Is requesiea pu -o -hand corner of Invitation. Cards should be of the bride and to the bride and bride groom ' Please .newer if " 1 good tatte for a Udy to g to th. opera in i&gll' orchestra or balcony? COJiSTANT READER. Decollete gowns are not worn In balcony seats but are considered correct In orches tra stalls this season. It Is not. however, obligatory to wear a decollete gown, even In the orchestra. A- gentleman from England brings a letter of Introduction, couched in social terms, to a prom inent banker her., adire. ed to his basinet, of fice. Would be be acting correctly to present It at the rrlvate house or send It there with h-'s card and address, or must he deliver It at the address given on the envelope. In which case must he de liver It personally, or may he send it with his card and address? H.8.L. The letter of Introduction could he. sent tn the address given on the envelope, and It !k ss- s8, nf :rfJfS R ?i?sS- s WflJ rrw . 3fcs;- -f . -S S. :- baldness. It Is the man of wealth, the one who washes his head at least once a day and maybe three times, who brushes It vinrmir n 'If'zrn t'rocs a day with a stiff hair liru.n. miu-utson perfumes an1 who otherwise CI treats his scalp, this is the man who become bald. The man with would he better for the gentleman to In close his raid and addrefs rather than de liver the letter personally. Will It he aklnz too Kreat a favor for j-ou to anntier this quMlen: If a girl, getting rrar rled. fhould Imfte her eister'n huhind's mMher and tMer.? it will be a home wM llnjr. IVICOJW. If the house Is large enough to allow of l AMERICANS NOW IN uf'3tSi Jp'lWKB wt!&SaBBSK IsIIHhSiII.1111.1.11111.111.111111.11. .lllllBB.llllBIHfiBilMH tf " v lBHHHr BBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBsdBBaBBBSaBBBIBtlBr B" je"f Tj sT " ,BbSSSSTF tm'm&m3m. 7 JmCZtyTm -! wf- BBBBsflaiBlvS MBS. OAB3 CANFIELD AND HES CHILDREN. Mrs. Cass Canfield was Miss Josephine Houghtelling. Her husband is a very prominent New York Yacht Club, and was one of the chief promoters of the America Cup 'ss- j-. Sjri " RT ; J5 j -v $ sLd stg 3i BK. as f- M3 a Sff 'W -ftti",, , ;.1 Aar' ks'j;j .-w-e-: 5l'.iB If. 7b JCEJP THE HA7P ThOW ,' ' less time and opportunity preserves his head of hair all his life. Th woman who finds herself getting hald should not uw a hair brush any often r than is ab"0lutely necefsary: she should not wash her head more frequently than once in six weeks; she should use no alco many guests. It would be better to Invite the girl's slstcr'y husband's mother and sis ter, especially If she has known them be fore. Ir the Imitations arc limited in num ber that will It sufficient reason for omit ting them. A Udy whom I have never met or een ha rent me her card, with the name of a lady -vhom I hac already met written underneath; also the day. date and time. "3 to 6." written in .he left hand corner. Does It mean that the stranse lady la giving a reception or tea arid has sk?d tils other lady whom I know to assist her? Kindly give full particulars, and what kind of dress or MJ fP-k: ,.; - . x .d Bf ' k& rv . " hol on her Bead; she should sot wtt? a, switch If she can help It, and she should give her hair a chance. Don't worry the roots. Hair Is the hard est thing In the world to kill. Let It alon and you will never be bald. Or your chaneas will be greatly lessened. costume would he proper to wear, and In hai manner should cards be used? VERT AJ.-XIOH8. Undoubtedly your friend has been asked to receive with the lady who is sending out cards' for the tea, and has also been asked to Invite some of her friends. Th correct dress for you to wear- would b a smart walking gown, with hat to match, or If you have n smart silk gown mado with high neck and long sleeves yon could wear that ?nd take off your coat. But as you are not expected to stop any length of time the street gown would really be tha better. You must leave two cards In the hall, one for your hostess and' one for your friend. LONDON. tx member of the Races. f v.. eM.r- kSSSS -isaag-jli gs55feSti